My best friends cousins girlfriend knows this guy who knows this girl who once talked to another mechanic said your doing it wrong. Keep doing you Wes love the videos
Not only do the folks down south not know what it is like to work on the rusty and crusty, they don’t know what it’s like to have cold , salty slush and water dripping down on you when working on the rusty and crusty during the winter! I sure wish I had someone with your skills and talents in my area! Keep up the great work!
@@mph5896 We do get triple digits in the Midwest. The steel shop building amplifies the heat on top of that. Cold means that nothing works properly. Fluids are syrup. Bolts snap easily. Air lines freeze. Battery powered tools have less power and die quickly. Any little bump tears your skin open. Everything takes longer than it should.
@@heithdotysadventures7824 Pretty sure the poster is aware of that. Salty slush dripping on me made me decide to work with electricity instead of cars.
@@mph5896 why does every southerner assume we don’t deal with heat up north? I live almost as far north as you can go in the U.S., the high last summer here was 103°. The lowest I’ve seen this winter is -30° Just admit you have far better weather and get over it, a lot of us live up here because we like the worse weather. Long winters keep the riff raff away lol
I just blew out one diff, bought a junkyard axle, housing and all and swapped the guts from the new to the old and it worked perfectly. Never done this or even thought that I had any business attempting it but thanks to guys like you and TH-cam I did it in my yard in the snow 😂
When I was Deere wrench, I made a gear oil dispenser from an old freon keg. I laid the bottle on it's side and made some sheet metal feet so it wouldn't roll around. I welded a 2" pipe half nipple to the top and a 1/2" elbow on the bottom. The bottom elbow got a ball valve and a hose with a metal curved pipe on the end to go inside a gearbox. The top half nipple got a pipe cap with an air fitting hooked to 20 psi regulated air. Dump the oil in the tank, screw on the cap and hook up the REGULATED air. Open the valve and watch the oil shoot into the gearbox. We had one for each kind of gear oil we used, so no cross contamination. Worked great! Thanks for the video!
I''m a diyer, not a mechanic by trade. That was interesting for me as I've never seen an explanation of how a mechanical LSD works. I appreciate you including that part.
thats not a mechanical LSD, thats a clutch LSD, mechanical LSDs have many moving or not moving parts, no need for changing clutchpacks and are generally stronger. look up Torsen t1s or ashcroft ATBs. or a detroit truetrac, thats a mechanical LSD, and are super to use, have two in my 4x4. indestructible in my testing (ashcroft ATBs)
@@Norwegian_Bastard You're right about it being a clutch type. In my mind, if it's passive like this clutch design, it's mechanical. The only LSDs I have experience with are the electronic variety. I'll look up the Torsen and Ashcroft types.
@@badideaworkbench5155 ahh, that explains it, never really looked into an electrical one, except the haldex units of different cars, but that is more an electro hydraulic automatic gearbox (clutcheand steels) like this. with a tiny electrical pump making a hydraulic piston press up against the clutches providing 4wd. but wrapping my head around how a torsen and ashcroft ATB works took me a few months, untill i stumbled upon a video of one making it out of legos of all things and i understood exactly how it works. but the idea behind it is a worm gear can turn a gear but a gear can not turn a worm. but with modifcations or you would lock up completly if you let off the gas, lol. like pulling the ultimate handbrake if you ever slowed down
As someone who has done a ton of these out of warranty on ford trucks... my only suggestion to you next time or anyone watching this. BUY THE FORD FRICTION MODIFIER! 2 bottles, one to soak the clutches in, one to add to the gear oil. You can also add whats left from the soak bottle. They will end up coming back chattering if you don't. Whatever ford uses for friction on those clutches only likes the ford modifier...
With cold thick oil, running the pump at a slower rpm will actually move more fluid than running it at a high rpm. You could see in the video that the oil coming out of the pump was cloudy, this is due to aeration of the fluid caused by cavitation in the pump. Love every video!
UK. In 1961 at 15 years old I started an Ministry of Defence vehicle apprenticeship that ended on my 21st birthday. I spent the rest of my working life around heavy vehicles. Watching Wes often makes me realise you can teach an old dog new tricks or at least let him learn something. I look under the bonnet of modern cars and wonder what prat thought of that lot. Emissions - in my day if you could see across the road when you started a car it was fine. Thanks Wes, your making an old man very happy.
I tested my limited slip diff once. I dug two holes (in sand) under diagonal wheels until the vehicle was just hanging there. Started the engine and engaged 4WD. No way could I drive out of there as expected. I jabbed the brakes hard while the engine was spinning the wheels half a dozen times and it jumped right out of those holes. A mate of mine did the same thing without LSD and his car also leapt out of the holes as well. So even without a LSD braking the spinning wheel briefly allowed torque to be applied to the opposite wheels. I wouldn’t have believed it unless I did it myself. It’s a great trick that just might get you out of a bog. And if you save a couple of girls who are bogged anything could happen :)
@ Well,on a tractor it also helps turn tighter especially if you have a 40 year old 2WD tractor. My tractor has a diff lock and I can certainly dig holes with that 🤠
I was a marine mechanic for 5 years before retired. We had a little pony impeller pump mounted to a 7 gallon bucket (sold retail ) to do oil/fluid changes. You can get the pump alone sold as a water pump, but all parts of pump are same (oil ready) great for waste oil, diesel transfer (even gas if you have the never) pump, and yes great for water too. Can get the drive motor in 110VAC or 12VDC too. But the best way was a weed killer sprayer pressure pump can (get the stainless ones with brass spray wand, plastic will work too but metal is better ). Just take the wand and bend to a "J" bend or even just add gas line (flexible), and away you go! When I had my garage at your age I had 4 of them, 1-gear oil, 1 trans oil, 1 brake fluid, and one empty for everything else. They saved me a lot of time & mess clean-ups!
Of all the "fancy tools" I've seen you use, the 2 I had to run out and buy were the simple ratcheting end box end wrench set, and a ratchet wrench with a pivoting head. Those have been a life saver.
I'd like to add, yours is the only channel I watch without fast forwarding, it seems to me everyone else bores me to tears, not your videos, always entertaining, not wanting to miss a frame. keep it up, looking for next video to relax to Sundays here in UK.
If I remember correctly, I think Valvoline has started to put gear oil in plastic "bags" that kinda look like Capri Sun drink pouches. Worked great for when I changed the front and rear diff fluid in my Jeep. Didn't need to get out the hand pump.
"Basically magic" That pretty much sums it up! Thanks for taking the time to film this, seeing the amount of trouble and attempts to complete the job is always an adventure.
One method I've used to get the differential to pop out is roll a rag between the ring gear and pinion I learned that from my father who use to work for a tractor dealer. I've done this on dodge front differentials and it has worked every time.
One thing I recently learned about are systems that use wheel sensors and can apply the brake to a single wheel. It can assist a LSD or open differential to transfer power to the non slipping wheel
Would have liked to see what the friction plates looked like after 200k+ miles. I've got 125k on my 8.8 lsd and suspect there's not much friction material left on the linings.
Don't you just love it how any "mechanic" tells you how easy stuff is ? Like pointing to the 5 visible bolts on a rear bumper and saying "take these out and you're done!" Bit of a shame they often "forget" to mention the invisible fasteners and what other steps needed to be taken before you get it off .... Love the channel Wes ! Real mechanic doing real work for real people ! cheers, Ard
Good video, Wes. About the fluid pump, I made a similar tool out of an old small block chevy oil pump I had laying around. Spin it with a 1/2” drill. Pumps a lot faster than your new tool. 👍
Yours runs the fluid THRU the pump; I'm betting this one is peristaltic so only the tube itself comes in contact with the fluid. So you have a set of tubes to use with different incompatible fluids, as opposed to contaminating the current fluid transfer with the remnants of the last fluid transfer still in your pump.
wOw, tearing down a diff isn't what it used to be: no stinking, sludgy grease-like substance masquerading as gear oil! Very nice work- no slips, errors or missed steps. Love watching you work (no pun).
Your right about the snow on the Used Car lot L o L When I was working at Gulf Service Station back in the 70s the used car place next store used to have a Panic Attack when it Snowed ! L o L
With regards to the pump being slow, move the bottle ABOVE the height of what it is you wish to fill.... Fluid naturally wants to go down, keeping the bottle low only adds to the strain of the motor as you attempt to lift the fluid against gravity. Also, heating the thicker oils in a tub of warm water will make the process even faster. Another excellent video, thank you for all of the quality work you do both in and out of the shop 👍👍👍
Wes, you have one hell of a mind, to remember how to take stuff apart, then to put it back together, it's so bloody amazing, so don't mind people who are jealous of you're abilities.
Hello Wes, one trick i use is to preheat the gear oil in very hot water, then use the ( drill pump i got from peavy mart for 4.99 Canadian about five yrs ago.) Done in less than 7 minutes. Great show two thumbs up
One of the interesting things about Wes is watching him USE the Tools he orders/buys because his profession would be even more difficult without them, and, what WE don't have can generally be rented...
That made me ecstatic that I am too old and infirm to task such a task any more. The way you told it all made sense, and would be extremely useful to someone facing the uphill task for the first time, as you did.
The Factory Ford Service manuals seem to always call out a special tool for every job! I like the creative approach to accomplish the repair without specialty tools. Nice job Wes! 👍😁
GM did that, too. Even way back in 1961. Special tool "X" just to seat the rear main seal (basically a fancy piece of rope) on the 215 c.i. V8, for example ... I rolled it in with the plastic grip of a super-size screwdriver. It worked.
@@infoanorexic $90.00 counter gear bearing loading tool was out of the question for me. A few pennies worth of wood dowel worked fine for me. I used it for years.
EVERYONE tells you to use "special" tools. They seldom are really "special" and I have yet to buy one. I don't even own a seal drift. I've rebuilt engines and transmissions without and will continue to do so. My torque wrench doesn't even "click".
@@FishFind3000 I have one but it doesn't go "click". It's the old school type with a long needle on it. Besides, if you do enough, you get to know how much torque you are applying and how in many cases, it's not all that important. Bearing caps and heads for sure. The rest, just use common sense. Just had the head off my 66 and I drive it daily.
Beautiful explanation of how a limited slip diff works. Now I understand. Yes, the gear oil probably would have pumped faster if it had been warm. It was also getting a lot of air mixed into it, which was probably part of the problem. That could be the inlet connection, the shaft seal, or the gasket around the pump halves.
I learned this lesson many years ago... Whenever you get a new product, I spend the time needed to read the directions first. No matter how simple it looks, it never hurts to see what is expected to know how to work stuff.
I am 99% sure this can be done still in the rear end housing, much much easier, the spider gears can spin freely inside letting you roll them out after pulling the pins\clips, unless im thinking of a completely different type of rear end.
Anyone else want to see a video of Wes working alongside squatch253? I don't care which job/workshop they're in. Two super smart, hard working, witty people.
Dad would have loved having one of those pump when he changed out the final drive lube on his little dozer. No quart size squirtable bottles back then. Probably spilled twice what he put in those drives. He was oiled from head to toe when he finally got done. He considered making use of an item that was stored in our bathroom cabinet, which would have utilized a coat hanger while used for it's intended purpose ... but I think old school modesty and the fact that the community had a rather active rumor mill at the time kept him from buying one for that use.
Love the video. While a limited slip is not as good as a locker for serious situations, particularly off-road, it is more than good enough for what most people need on the road, and requires no driver input
Seeing the dripping slush was a reminder to a simpler time. Working on cars that were covered in melting ice and snow, coated with thick mud from the 3 miles of dirt road we lived on. Scraping to find bolt heads, and getting dirt in your eyes (remember those vinyl goggles with the elastic strap? Never worked.) I don't miss that too much. And thanks for the tool review. I appreciate those as well. Still saving to buy that ratcheting pinch bar.
@@davidhudson5452 They were big and clunky, and that elastic always stretched out and they'd fall off when you needed them most. I HATED them. These new eye-huggers are so much better.
I don’t know squat about fixing my vehicles anymore, but I sure do enjoy watching you work. I have a mechanic who takes care of our vehicles, and you two would enjoy each other's company. I sometimes stop by his shop just to bring him a coffee and a donut, and to listen to the stories about…"the jughead who owns this piece of crap tried fixing it himself, and now it’s going to cost him twice as much because I have to undo all his mistakes before even beginning to fix the problem." You guys are a special breed, and worth every dollar we pay you. Once my vehicle is out of warranty, it's taken care of by Hans.
Working on vehicles in a Midwestern winter, getting a salty, sandy, dirty shower while trying to change an oil filter. Yes, the struggle is real! Working on my company's fleet of trucks during the winter in SE Iowa I know the pain Wes!
326,000 plus miles on my 2011 Ford F-150 and I have not had that problem yet. I definitely have “saved” this video for future reference just in case. And now I know how to remove my axles to replace the axle seals when the time comes. As always, you are a big help and inspiration. From a fellow Northern Illinois resident who loves all your videos.
Hey Wes, I don't know if you will see this, but I really appreciate your videos and they have helped me tremendously in troubleshooting and diagnostic issues. Not only in automotive but also in the way i approach my job in troubleshooting complex issues at my cellular tower sites. Thank you!
I had that same problem on my 2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. It stopped after I changed the speed sensor on the top of the rear end housing. Now I'm wondering if it also serves as an axle housing vent. Never had the problem again. I still have the vehicle, just turned 250,000. Runs like a top! I bought the truck in 2005 when it had 40,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3,000 religiously. Thanks Wes. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
I drive a 1991 F250 extended cab 4x4 with a limited slip 10.25 in the rear.. I replaced the clutch pack about two ears ago an did a full service on the bearings. I immediately noticed the same phenomena from the rear diff on slow turns. I attributed this to the new clutch pack witch was extremal difficult to assemble, and there fore very tight.
I hear the heater!! 😂. I did the clutch pack in my foxbody and had to wear a motorcycle helmet when I put the “S” spring back in. The first time I tried to get it in it shot across my garage at mach 2.
Sorry something unrelated bought thought you'd appreciate...tday wrkng on old backpack leafblwr..put throttle cable cap dwn..put carb on took outside to start..then realized OOOOPPPSS. ran back couldn't find...took nap. Came back wth flashlight searched total3-4hrs...finally found it...THANK GOD
Great description on the operation of the clutch's! BTW, I made a transfer pump out of an old electric fuel pump. It's a bit slow (3 mins per quart) but it does the job.
I've rebuilt a few chevy style tears over the years. I was told that they are harder but you don't need extra tools. Love the channel I always learn something, a better way, new tool to make things easier. Thank you
Love the fact that you're approximately half my age and already just as bitter (to be truthful I was probably there in my thirties as well) when it comes to whiny people. Love your vids mate. Just keep doing what you're doing. ❤🍻👍
I did a similar video of the clutch pack replacement in an LS Chrysler diff in a Dodge Ram, and to my surprise it is nearly identical to the Ford version you show here. The only significant difference is the way Chrysler use threaded adjusters to adjust ring gear backlash and axial preload, rather than shims you show here. It's easier to get the diff out but you need to make a special tool to get backlash into spec. Great video, Wes!
@@WatchWesWork lol.....'' wes... what the fk is that white sht your crunching thru.??.. is it there for the vid, for content.??.. we dont ever have that sht here in aus, looks, sounds disgusting..''.. went ski ing at falls creek, victoria. closest place from south aus.. .ausie,s lots, still have never seen snow.. . im from u.k.. [ our snow now in u.k. is slowley turning black. ie.. imports.. ]..
@@WatchWesWork ausie.. 1980.. bought a zf farlain. 351. . 9''.. the seal was leaking, diff, axle. so, replaced seal, could not get axle in.. asked around, yeh, its lsd. stik the other axle in with a bar to the ground, turn it slowly with the other axle in, till it meshes.. all for a $2.50 speedi sleeve..
That fluid transfer pump looks kind of life a BDSM accessory for your dewalt ... Great video Wes. I appreciated the explanation of how the limited slip works.
It was very common in the 5.0 mustang rear ends from 86-95 to put a extra friction and steel in the carrier to almost make it a locker, you would get some chirping and skipping around corners but when you launched on the street or track it made a lot of difference
That gear oil looked pretty aerated coming from the pump. I wonder if that pump is bad? Nice video like always and thanks for showing the guts on how it works.
Today I learned that my 2012 F150 has limited slip. I'm glad you showed how this is done, because I have this same axle and I might have to do this some day. I'm sure you don't want to hear about how little rust is on my F150 compared to this, though...
I'm always amazed at how little of the friction material is on those clutches and the fact that I seen them last and still lock up around 200,000 miles
In my experience, with Ford trucks, is the limited slips are toasted by 100k miles. The factory e lockers after 2011 (atleast in the F250 up, but I think F150s got them too) are just incredible.
I really enjoyed your explanation of the limited slip functionality. I heard many many ways to simplify the understanding of it's function. And this really did a good job. For those who haven't had one apart in front of them this is a pretty close second. Keep it up Wes!!
It's amazing how different the vehicles are between areas of the US. Rainman Ray's Repairs in Florida has nice looking 20 year old cars and you and South Main Auto are working in 10 year old piles of rust. Keep up the good work. Love the videos.
I Bought one of those transfer pumps because of him as well! Little slow on gear oil but trans fluid is a breeze. Well worth the month. I’m looking for things to us it on now lol.
There is almost zero possibility that I will ever have to do this job but I watched the video anyway. You and a couple other folks, including Mr O, have managed to actually teach me things about how mechanics work. Both the human ones and the mechanical mechanics.
Wes you amaze me with the work you do with so much rust and corrosion on the vehicles, I’m convinced that these are your special skills. Keep up the great work! Winter is almost over ✌️
I don't understand why all the top comments are saying he had to work through rust and crust. He worked on the differential which lives in a sealed oil bath. I know he definitely does the rust & crust stuff but not in this video. Super confused.
Top, bottom, left, right? I have no clue! I just like watching Wes work. Is that not why we’re here? You get to service the differential, I just get to watch. Seems pretty easy to me.
My 2000 F150 traction lock had the same issue and had a similar bulletin but it said reduce the shim preload by 0.010" and replace the clutch pack. I replaced the oil and put a bottle of friction modifier in it. It chattered. Then I added another bottle of friction modifier and that got rid of the chatter. This was done around 80k miles. I sold the truck to a buddy at 105k miles and the last I heard it had 170k miles on it when he sold it with the traction lock still working great. The parts guy at the dealer said that most people just added the second bottle of FM.
Another outstanding job Wes. I don't know how much you paid for the Tool Guy Fluid Transfer Pump, from a quick search it's circa $100, however for $30 you could get a 12V Oil Transfer Pump that has it's own built-in motor and just needs 12 volts to run. This is what I use and it works great for oil, fuel, coolant, and so on, and at that price you could have a number of them and use each of them for a specific fluids.
Agreed. I bought mine from Lidl (essentially a food store in Europe that occasionally also carries a range of useful tools), certainly no more than $30 equivalent. It helps if the supply of oil is higher than the pump.
@@robt2151 SNAP, I bought one of mine in Lidl and one in Aldi, a few months later, when they had them in the middle aisle. I think they were $29.99 each, and have more than paid for themselves at this stage. * correction, they weren't $29.99 each, they were $19.99 each in Aldi and Lidl
@@robt2151 yeah i bought one in Lidl (UK) think it was around £12 ..its pumped everything from engine oil, kerosene, derv, ttansmission oil, auto trans fluid, brake fluid Hydraulic oil and water and still keeps going..took it apart as some guk went up suction pipe and the pump internals are brass vanes..for the money its unbelievably good..or has been so far
@@sweetpeaz61 IIRC, the instructions said it could be used for all types of fuel and oil, with the specific exclusion of water which causes internal corrosion.
There's something so strange to me about a vehicle being new enough to have a full color instrument cluster display, while simultaneously being a complete rot box with missing rockers, cab corners and rotten bumpers. I can't tell if vehicles are regressing with corrosion protection, or if the road salting is just getting more aggressive.
It amazes me too... I live in the Sierras and have plenty of snow. Car Cancer is just non-existent for the most part. They sand roads in the moutains, but no salt.
SMA TOOL ENVY????. I watch both channels and appreciate the quality hard work and great vids from both. Did i miss the vent installation that Ford Mothership recommended?
That drill driver pump looks like a Honda Transfer case filling machine, for the Pilot/Ridgeline AWD. I couldn’t get there when I tried. Keep up the good work!
Small transfer pumps don't generally draw a lot of head nor do they push a lot of head. They work best when the source of the fluid is equal to or higher than the drain level. Thick fluids, as you know, don't flow well in cold weather. Of course, some transfer pumps can move water up from 50 feet down to a 100 feet up.
From 50 ft down? You mean suction? Air pressure is only 15 psi which works out to be maximum of 30 ft lift for water. Oil is a little bit lighter so maybe a pure vacuum would pull it up 40 ft.
I think the gear oil was too thick for the pumper. You could see it aerating the output. I would suspect if you preheated the gear oil, it would work better. But yeah those things definitely are 'viscosity aware'. heh What is the tool that you use for squeezing tubes of silicone? I saw you use it one episode.
Hi Wes, Would your new pump toy work better if you heated the gear lube first? Maybe even hot tap water enough to help. Thanks for the great video. Take care Wes
I'd highly recommend using an additional friction modifier and not just what comes in the gear oil. I understand it states the friction modifier is included, however I still wouldn't trust it. Good job as always, some of the best mechanic related videos on TH-cam!
Did I miss the "Vent Kit" installation ??? And yeah, bet that cordless drill pump had a tough time with 140 viscosity lube ... holy crap that's thick ... used to 70W-90 ... and bet you're wrong you could just "Squeeze it" faster. Good job and thanks for taking time to explain the limited slip operation. Look forward to you doing a "locker" like I have.
That was interesting, here I work on Toyota Landcruisers all the time, and we don't get snow, reasonable morning frost sometimes is all. And I still can't believe there are still so many vehicles with circlip axles over there. Thanks for showing what the LSD in them is and works.
I'm pretty certain that 9 out of 10 times the people who write service instructions for vehicles have never actually worked on a vehicle in their lives.
It was easier in the olden days , when weird noise from drive axle was eliminated by stuffing it with banana peel. Worked pretty well to reduce unwanted attention to mechanical wear. Limited warranty was the downside. But for a quick sell.......that was doable.
Sawdust. Quiets down manual transmissions and rear axles. At least that’s what they used at the used car lot where my dad cut his teeth ‘fixing’ used cars for sale in the 1930’s.
My best friends cousins girlfriend knows this guy who knows this girl who once talked to another mechanic said your doing it wrong. Keep doing you Wes love the videos
Hey! I was married to her! She lies like a dog in a cement mixer full of porcupines.
@@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin So You're the One! Hot Dog. I'll be Dipped... ;-)
😂
Save Ferr.. er I mean Wes!!
I was that mechanic and I said that I hope he doesn't do it wrong. Nobody listens any more.
Not only do the folks down south not know what it is like to work on the rusty and crusty, they don’t know what it’s like to have cold , salty slush and water dripping down on you when working on the rusty and crusty during the winter!
I sure wish I had someone with your skills and talents in my area! Keep up the great work!
They also have their challenges. When its 110f and you re expected to wrench in the shop.
Wes is really not in the south . He is on the upper side of the u.s . Granted he's not in Michigan but he's definitely not in the south
@@mph5896
We do get triple digits in the Midwest. The steel shop building amplifies the heat on top of that.
Cold means that nothing works properly. Fluids are syrup. Bolts snap easily. Air lines freeze. Battery powered tools have less power and die quickly. Any little bump tears your skin open. Everything takes longer than it should.
@@heithdotysadventures7824 Pretty sure the poster is aware of that. Salty slush dripping on me made me decide to work with electricity instead of cars.
@@mph5896 why does every southerner assume we don’t deal with heat up north? I live almost as far north as you can go in the U.S., the high last summer here was 103°. The lowest I’ve seen this winter is -30°
Just admit you have far better weather and get over it, a lot of us live up here because we like the worse weather. Long winters keep the riff raff away lol
I just blew out one diff, bought a junkyard axle, housing and all and swapped the guts from the new to the old and it worked perfectly. Never done this or even thought that I had any business attempting it but thanks to guys like you and TH-cam I did it in my yard in the snow 😂
When I was Deere wrench, I made a gear oil dispenser from an old freon keg. I laid the bottle on it's side and made some sheet metal feet so it wouldn't roll around. I welded a 2" pipe half nipple to the top and a 1/2" elbow on the bottom. The bottom elbow got a ball valve and a hose with a metal curved pipe on the end to go inside a gearbox. The top half nipple got a pipe cap with an air fitting hooked to 20 psi regulated air.
Dump the oil in the tank, screw on the cap and hook up the REGULATED air. Open the valve and watch the oil shoot into the gearbox.
We had one for each kind of gear oil we used, so no cross contamination.
Worked great! Thanks for the video!
I''m a diyer, not a mechanic by trade. That was interesting for me as I've never seen an explanation of how a mechanical LSD works. I appreciate you including that part.
thats not a mechanical LSD, thats a clutch LSD, mechanical LSDs have many moving or not moving parts, no need for changing clutchpacks and are generally stronger. look up Torsen t1s or ashcroft ATBs. or a detroit truetrac, thats a mechanical LSD, and are super to use, have two in my 4x4. indestructible in my testing (ashcroft ATBs)
@@Norwegian_Bastard You're right about it being a clutch type. In my mind, if it's passive like this clutch design, it's mechanical. The only LSDs I have experience with are the electronic variety. I'll look up the Torsen and Ashcroft types.
@@badideaworkbench5155 ahh, that explains it, never really looked into an electrical one, except the haldex units of different cars, but that is more an electro hydraulic automatic gearbox (clutcheand steels) like this. with a tiny electrical pump making a hydraulic piston press up against the clutches providing 4wd.
but wrapping my head around how a torsen and ashcroft ATB works took me a few months, untill i stumbled upon a video of one making it out of legos of all things and i understood exactly how it works. but the idea behind it is a worm gear can turn a gear but a gear can not turn a worm. but with modifcations or you would lock up completly if you let off the gas, lol. like pulling the ultimate handbrake if you ever slowed down
@Paul DeLucchi If you remember it, you were doing it wrong, or were sold Asprin instead!
As someone who has done a ton of these out of warranty on ford trucks... my only suggestion to you next time or anyone watching this. BUY THE FORD FRICTION MODIFIER! 2 bottles, one to soak the clutches in, one to add to the gear oil. You can also add whats left from the soak bottle. They will end up coming back chattering if you don't. Whatever ford uses for friction on those clutches only likes the ford modifier...
With cold thick oil, running the pump at a slower rpm will actually move more fluid than running it at a high rpm. You could see in the video that the oil coming out of the pump was cloudy, this is due to aeration of the fluid caused by cavitation in the pump. Love every video!
Who all was screaming- warm up the oil!!!😂
Thanks for explaining how limited slip differentials work, Wes. Great video.
UK. In 1961 at 15 years old I started an Ministry of Defence vehicle apprenticeship that ended on my 21st birthday. I spent the rest of my working life around heavy vehicles. Watching Wes often makes me realise you can teach an old dog new tricks or at least let him learn something. I look under the bonnet of modern cars and wonder what prat thought of that lot. Emissions - in my day if you could see across the road when you started a car it was fine. Thanks Wes, your making an old man very happy.
I tested my limited slip diff once.
I dug two holes (in sand) under diagonal wheels until the vehicle was just hanging there.
Started the engine and engaged 4WD. No way could I drive out of there as expected.
I jabbed the brakes hard while the engine was spinning the wheels half a dozen times and it jumped right out of those holes.
A mate of mine did the same thing without LSD and his car also leapt out of the holes as well.
So even without a LSD braking the spinning wheel briefly allowed torque to be applied to the opposite wheels.
I wouldn’t have believed it unless I did it myself. It’s a great trick that just might get you out of a bog.
And if you save a couple of girls who are bogged anything could happen :)
That's why tractors have 2 brake pedals !
@
Well,on a tractor it also helps turn tighter especially if you have a 40 year old 2WD tractor.
My tractor has a diff lock and I can certainly dig holes with that 🤠
I was a marine mechanic for 5 years before retired. We had a little pony impeller pump mounted to a 7 gallon bucket (sold retail ) to do oil/fluid changes. You can get the pump alone sold as a water pump, but all parts of pump are same (oil ready) great for waste oil, diesel transfer (even gas if you have the never) pump, and yes great for water too. Can get the drive motor in 110VAC or 12VDC too. But the best way was a weed killer sprayer pressure pump can (get the stainless ones with brass spray wand, plastic will work too but metal is better ). Just take the wand and bend to a "J" bend or even just add gas line (flexible), and away you go! When I had my garage at your age I had 4 of them, 1-gear oil, 1 trans oil, 1 brake fluid, and one empty for everything else. They saved me a lot of time & mess clean-ups!
Do you think that would work on something as thick as gear oil?
Marine mech here also. Salt salt salt rust rust rust ..
Have used a drill pump for everything from water to ATF for 40 years. Everything's new to someone at some point !
Of all the "fancy tools" I've seen you use, the 2 I had to run out and buy were the simple ratcheting end box end wrench set, and a ratchet wrench with a pivoting head. Those have been a life saver.
Pivot head and extendable here! Always nice to get ideas.
Should have left the wheel seals. A little leaking would help mitigate future rust.
Yah and completely fuck the brakes
I'd like to add, yours is the only channel I watch without fast forwarding, it seems to me everyone else bores me to tears, not your videos, always entertaining, not wanting to miss a frame. keep it up, looking for next video to relax to Sundays here in UK.
If I remember correctly, I think Valvoline has started to put gear oil in plastic "bags" that kinda look like Capri Sun drink pouches. Worked great for when I changed the front and rear diff fluid in my Jeep. Didn't need to get out the hand pump.
Nulon do the same if you're down under. I'm just too tight when I can buy it by the 10L
Amsoil has the bags as well.
And they charge more for them.
Don`t taste as good as the Capri Sun drink though...
Just buy one and re-use it!
"Basically magic" That pretty much sums it up! Thanks for taking the time to film this, seeing the amount of trouble and attempts to complete the job is always an adventure.
One method I've used to get the differential to pop out is roll a rag between the ring gear and pinion I learned that from my father who use to work for a tractor dealer. I've done this on dodge front differentials and it has worked every time.
That sure beats the hell out of the time I unintentionally used my index finger. I will need to try that next time.
One thing I recently learned about are systems that use wheel sensors and can apply the brake to a single wheel. It can assist a LSD or open differential to transfer power to the non slipping wheel
Pretty sure Toyota pickups use that strategy. Good point.
Would have liked to see what the friction plates looked like after 200k+ miles.
I've got 125k on my 8.8 lsd and suspect there's not much friction material
left on the linings.
Don't you just love it how any "mechanic" tells you how easy stuff is ?
Like pointing to the 5 visible bolts on a rear bumper and saying "take these out and you're done!"
Bit of a shame they often "forget" to mention the invisible fasteners and what other steps needed to be taken before you get it off ....
Love the channel Wes ! Real mechanic doing real work for real people !
cheers, Ard
Good video, Wes. About the fluid pump, I made a similar tool out of an old small block chevy oil pump I had laying around. Spin it with a 1/2” drill. Pumps a lot faster than your new tool. 👍
Cheaper too!
The shit we make out of junk always works better than the stuff you can buy...and a lot cheaper.
@@mikemaccracken3112 Of course you have to pull an oil pan to get a free one, but when the customer rolls away his oil light will be on.
@@robertklein9190 didn’t say free😂
Yours runs the fluid THRU the pump; I'm betting this one is peristaltic so only the tube itself comes in contact with the fluid. So you have a set of tubes to use with different incompatible fluids, as opposed to contaminating the current fluid transfer with the remnants of the last fluid transfer still in your pump.
wOw, tearing down a diff isn't what it used to be: no stinking, sludgy grease-like substance masquerading as gear oil! Very nice work- no slips, errors or missed steps. Love watching you work (no pun).
Your right about the snow on the Used Car lot L o L When I was working at Gulf Service Station back in the 70s the used car place next store used to have a Panic Attack when it Snowed ! L o L
With regards to the pump being slow, move the bottle ABOVE the height of what it is you wish to fill.... Fluid naturally wants to go down, keeping the bottle low only adds to the strain of the motor as you attempt to lift the fluid against gravity.
Also, heating the thicker oils in a tub of warm water will make the process even faster.
Another excellent video, thank you for all of the quality work you do both in and out of the shop 👍👍👍
"Fluid naturally wants to go down".......Gravity. 😂
Wes, you have one hell of a mind, to remember how to take stuff apart, then to put it back together, it's so bloody amazing, so don't mind people who are jealous of you're abilities.
Hello Wes, one trick i use is to preheat the gear oil in very hot water, then use the ( drill pump i got from peavy mart for 4.99 Canadian about five yrs ago.) Done in less than 7 minutes. Great show two thumbs up
One of the interesting things about Wes is watching him USE the Tools he orders/buys because his profession would be even more difficult without them, and, what WE don't have can generally be rented...
That made me ecstatic that I am too old and infirm to task such a task any more. The way you told it all made sense, and would be extremely useful to someone facing the uphill task for the first time, as you did.
The Factory Ford Service manuals seem to always call out a special tool for every job! I like the creative approach to accomplish the repair without specialty tools. Nice job Wes! 👍😁
GM did that, too. Even way back in 1961. Special tool "X" just to seat the rear main seal (basically a fancy piece of rope) on the 215 c.i. V8, for example ...
I rolled it in with the plastic grip of a super-size screwdriver. It worked.
@@infoanorexic $90.00 counter gear bearing loading tool was out of the question for me. A few pennies worth of wood dowel worked fine for me. I used it for years.
EVERYONE tells you to use "special" tools. They seldom are really "special" and I have yet to buy one. I don't even own a seal drift. I've rebuilt engines and transmissions without and will continue to do so. My torque wrench doesn't even "click".
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship well I understand the seal tools but to not have a torque wrench when building a motor is not good.
@@FishFind3000 I have one but it doesn't go "click". It's the old school type with a long needle on it. Besides, if you do enough, you get to know how much torque you are applying and how in many cases, it's not all that important. Bearing caps and heads for sure. The rest, just use common sense. Just had the head off my 66 and I drive it daily.
Beautiful explanation of how a limited slip diff works. Now I understand.
Yes, the gear oil probably would have pumped faster if it had been warm. It was also getting a lot of air mixed into it, which was probably part of the problem. That could be the inlet connection, the shaft seal, or the gasket around the pump halves.
I learned this lesson many years ago... Whenever you get a new product, I spend the time needed to read the directions first. No matter how simple it looks, it never hurts to see what is expected to know how to work stuff.
Always impressed to see you pull something like this apart and then reassemble with zero issues. Rear end gears are not tolerant of foolishness!
I am 99% sure this can be done still in the rear end housing, much much easier, the spider gears can spin freely inside letting you roll them out after pulling the pins\clips, unless im thinking of a completely different type of rear end.
Nope. That’s a “ let someone do it” job.
As always Wes. Good job.
Anyone else want to see a video of Wes working alongside squatch253? I don't care which job/workshop they're in.
Two super smart, hard working, witty people.
These are the only videos on youtube I click like before watching. Because they are all awesome!
I appreciate the video titles being the problem to diagnose, not the eventual solution. Gives me a chance to contribute some wild guesses.
Dad would have loved having one of those pump when he changed out the final drive lube on his little dozer. No quart size squirtable bottles back then. Probably spilled twice what he put in those drives. He was oiled from head to toe when he finally got done.
He considered making use of an item that was stored in our bathroom cabinet, which would have utilized a coat hanger while used for it's intended purpose ... but I think old school modesty and the fact that the community had a rather active rumor mill at the time kept him from buying one for that use.
Love the video. While a limited slip is not as good as a locker for serious situations, particularly off-road, it is more than good enough for what most people need on the road, and requires no driver input
Seeing the dripping slush was a reminder to a simpler time. Working on cars that were covered in melting ice and snow, coated with thick mud from the 3 miles of dirt road we lived on. Scraping to find bolt heads, and getting dirt in your eyes (remember those vinyl goggles with the elastic strap? Never worked.) I don't miss that too much. And thanks for the tool review. I appreciate those as well. Still saving to buy that ratcheting pinch bar.
Goggles fogged up real good
@@davidhudson5452 They were big and clunky, and that elastic always stretched out and they'd fall off when you needed them most. I HATED them. These new eye-huggers are so much better.
I don’t know squat about fixing my vehicles anymore, but I sure do enjoy watching you work. I have a mechanic who takes care of our vehicles, and you two would enjoy each other's company. I sometimes stop by his shop just to bring him a coffee and a donut, and to listen to the stories about…"the jughead who owns this piece of crap tried fixing it himself, and now it’s going to cost him twice as much because I have to undo all his mistakes before even beginning to fix the problem." You guys are a special breed, and worth every dollar we pay you. Once my vehicle is out of warranty, it's taken care of by Hans.
Working on vehicles in a Midwestern winter, getting a salty, sandy, dirty shower while trying to change an oil filter. Yes, the struggle is real! Working on my company's fleet of trucks during the winter in SE Iowa I know the pain Wes!
Percentage of people sleeping better at night knowing Wes has fixed their vehicles: 100.
Thanks for the great description of how a limited slip functions and the difference between a limited slip and a locking diff. Excellent work.
Always enjoy seeing a diff taken apart. One of those beautiful and elegant solutions to a problem that I just enjoy for its own sake.
The more I see the newer auto line up the more I like older autos to be honest!
326,000 plus miles on my 2011 Ford F-150 and I have not had that problem yet. I definitely have “saved” this video for future reference just in case. And now I know how to remove my axles to replace the axle seals when the time comes. As always, you are a big help and inspiration. From a fellow Northern Illinois resident who loves all your videos.
Hey Wes, I don't know if you will see this, but I really appreciate your videos and they have helped me tremendously in troubleshooting and diagnostic issues. Not only in automotive but also in the way i approach my job in troubleshooting complex issues at my cellular tower sites. Thank you!
Isn't it the truth Wes that a lot of those parts diagrams leave out parts in the pics ,great work by the way 😀
Been watching for years, your humor and work ethic makes some of the best content on YT, your really up there in quality content like LD18, DP, etc.
hear hear!
Wes! You don't know how badly I needed this video! I almost had to start working on my own projects...
Perfect!
I had that same problem on my 2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. It stopped after I changed the speed sensor on the top of the rear end housing. Now I'm wondering if it also serves as an axle housing vent. Never had the problem again. I still have the vehicle, just turned 250,000. Runs like a top! I bought the truck in 2005 when it had 40,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3,000 religiously. Thanks Wes. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
Those new clutchpacks work really well for making the snow go away.
Very informative re: lockers vs limited slip. Which I'd known this 20 years ago.
I drive a 1991 F250 extended cab 4x4 with a limited slip 10.25 in the rear.. I replaced the clutch pack about two ears ago an did a full service on the bearings. I immediately noticed the same phenomena from the rear diff on slow turns. I attributed this to the new clutch pack witch was extremal difficult to assemble, and there fore very tight.
I hear the heater!! 😂. I did the clutch pack in my foxbody and had to wear a motorcycle helmet when I put the “S” spring back in. The first time I tried to get it in it shot across my garage at mach 2.
Sorry something unrelated bought thought you'd appreciate...tday wrkng on old backpack leafblwr..put throttle cable cap dwn..put carb on took outside to start..then realized OOOOPPPSS. ran back couldn't find...took nap. Came back wth flashlight searched total3-4hrs...finally found it...THANK GOD
Great description on the operation of the clutch's!
BTW, I made a transfer pump out of an old electric fuel pump. It's a bit slow (3 mins per quart) but it does the job.
I wonder how an engine oil pump would work? Might have to bore the plate or body for a Primer port ... buuuuut ...
I've rebuilt a few chevy style tears over the years. I was told that they are harder but you don't need extra tools. Love the channel I always learn something, a better way, new tool to make things easier. Thank you
Love the fact that you're approximately half my age and already just as bitter (to be truthful I was probably there in my thirties as well) when it comes to whiny people.
Love your vids mate. Just keep doing what you're doing. ❤🍻👍
nice job wes. thanks for taking the time to explain the physics behind the functionality of a limited slip rear.
I did a similar video of the clutch pack replacement in an LS Chrysler diff in a Dodge Ram, and to my surprise it is nearly identical to the Ford version you show here. The only significant difference is the way Chrysler use threaded adjusters to adjust ring gear backlash and axial preload, rather than shims you show here. It's easier to get the diff out but you need to make a special tool to get backlash into spec. Great video, Wes!
Interesting!
@@WatchWesWork lol.....'' wes... what the fk is that white sht your crunching thru.??.. is it there for the vid, for content.??.. we dont ever have that sht here in aus, looks, sounds disgusting..''.. went ski ing at falls creek, victoria. closest place from south aus.. .ausie,s lots, still have never seen snow.. . im from u.k.. [ our snow now in u.k. is slowley turning black. ie.. imports.. ]..
@@WatchWesWork that oil looks like sht. & some person, has been in there..
@@WatchWesWork ausie.. 1980.. bought a zf farlain. 351. . 9''.. the seal was leaking, diff, axle. so, replaced seal, could not get axle in.. asked around, yeh, its lsd. stik the other axle in with a bar to the ground, turn it slowly with the other axle in, till it meshes.. all for a $2.50 speedi sleeve..
@@WatchWesWork AAAAAAAAHHHH....... the diff the chev guys dream of... & steel.... buy a fkn for for fkn sake..
That fluid transfer pump looks kind of life a BDSM accessory for your dewalt ...
Great video Wes. I appreciated the explanation of how the limited slip works.
It was very common in the 5.0 mustang rear ends from 86-95 to put a extra friction and steel in the carrier to almost make it a locker, you would get some chirping and skipping around corners but when you launched on the street or track it made a lot of difference
I know this sounds silly, but I have never understood how a limited slip diff actually worked. Thank you for explaining it in a way that makes sense.
That gear oil looked pretty aerated coming from the pump. I wonder if that pump is bad? Nice video like always and thanks for showing the guts on how it works.
it looked clear after
Today I learned that my 2012 F150 has limited slip. I'm glad you showed how this is done, because I have this same axle and I might have to do this some day. I'm sure you don't want to hear about how little rust is on my F150 compared to this, though...
Love watching you work Wes! Thanks again!
Very nice video, very good at explaining everything and how it works. No added BS, and not in a hurry. You are wearing your safety glasses and gloves.
Hey Wes back in the day I ordered by cars with posi-track - great tutorial on this fix - enjoy your videos they are always very informative !!
I'm always amazed at how little of the friction material is on those clutches and the fact that I seen them last and still lock up around 200,000 miles
In my experience, with Ford trucks, is the limited slips are toasted by 100k miles. The factory e lockers after 2011 (atleast in the F250 up, but I think F150s got them too) are just incredible.
I really enjoyed your explanation of the limited slip functionality.
I heard many many ways to simplify the understanding of it's function. And this really did a good job.
For those who haven't had one apart in front of them this is a pretty close second. Keep it up Wes!!
It's amazing how different the vehicles are between areas of the US. Rainman Ray's Repairs in Florida has nice looking 20 year old cars and you and South Main Auto are working in 10 year old piles of rust.
Keep up the good work. Love the videos.
I Bought one of those transfer pumps because of him as well! Little slow on gear oil but trans fluid is a breeze. Well worth the month. I’m looking for things to us it on now lol.
There is almost zero possibility that I will ever have to do this job but I watched the video anyway. You and a couple other folks, including Mr O, have managed to actually teach me things about how mechanics work. Both the human ones and the mechanical mechanics.
Wes you amaze me with the work you do with so much rust and corrosion on the vehicles, I’m convinced that these are your special skills. Keep up the great work! Winter is almost over ✌️
I don't understand why all the top comments are saying he had to work through rust and crust. He worked on the differential which lives in a sealed oil bath. I know he definitely does the rust & crust stuff but not in this video. Super confused.
Top, bottom, left, right? I have no clue! I just like watching Wes work. Is that not why we’re here? You get to service the differential, I just get to watch. Seems pretty easy to me.
You scared the hell out of us. I thought we had to wait another week...:)
My 2000 F150 traction lock had the same issue and had a similar bulletin but it said reduce the shim preload by 0.010" and replace the clutch pack. I replaced the oil and put a bottle of friction modifier in it. It chattered. Then I added another bottle of friction modifier and that got rid of the chatter. This was done around 80k miles. I sold the truck to a buddy at 105k miles and the last I heard it had 170k miles on it when he sold it with the traction lock still working great. The parts guy at the dealer said that most people just added the second bottle of FM.
Another outstanding job Wes.
I don't know how much you paid for the Tool Guy Fluid Transfer Pump, from a quick search it's circa $100, however for $30 you could get a 12V Oil Transfer Pump that has it's own built-in motor and just needs 12 volts to run. This is what I use and it works great for oil, fuel, coolant, and so on, and at that price you could have a number of them and use each of them for a specific fluids.
Agreed. I bought mine from Lidl (essentially a food store in Europe that occasionally also carries a range of useful tools), certainly no more than $30 equivalent. It helps if the supply of oil is higher than the pump.
Great tip! They are under 20 bucks on ebay. Just ordered 2 of them.
@@robt2151 SNAP, I bought one of mine in Lidl and one in Aldi, a few months later, when they had them in the middle aisle.
I think they were $29.99 each, and have more than paid for themselves at this stage.
* correction, they weren't $29.99 each, they were $19.99 each in Aldi and Lidl
@@robt2151 yeah i bought one in Lidl (UK) think it was around £12 ..its pumped everything from engine oil, kerosene, derv, ttansmission oil, auto trans fluid, brake fluid Hydraulic oil and water and still keeps going..took it apart as some guk went up suction pipe and the pump internals are brass vanes..for the money its unbelievably good..or has been so far
@@sweetpeaz61 IIRC, the instructions said it could be used for all types of fuel and oil, with the specific exclusion of water which causes internal corrosion.
the longer the video the better, i had withdrawal yesterday and watched a few of your vids from 2 years ago
There's something so strange to me about a vehicle being new enough to have a full color instrument cluster display, while simultaneously being a complete rot box with missing rockers, cab corners and rotten bumpers.
I can't tell if vehicles are regressing with corrosion protection, or if the road salting is just getting more aggressive.
Yes.
Rust belt road salting rule of thumb, 6 inches of salt for every inch of snow.
The added foam in-between panels, and the dirt road dust control of calcium chloride doesn't help them any.
No, cars and trucks are made from too thin sheet metal and fiberglass and plastic.
It amazes me too... I live in the Sierras and have plenty of snow. Car Cancer is just non-existent for the most part. They sand roads in the moutains, but no salt.
Excellent video, Wes! I especially enjoyed the "Professor Wes" segment concerning how the LSD functions.
SMA TOOL ENVY????. I watch both channels and appreciate the quality hard work and great vids from both. Did i miss the vent installation that Ford Mothership recommended?
That drill driver pump looks like a Honda Transfer case filling machine, for the Pilot/Ridgeline AWD. I couldn’t get there when I tried. Keep up the good work!
Small transfer pumps don't generally draw a lot of head nor do they push a lot of head. They work best when the source of the fluid is equal to or higher than the drain level. Thick fluids, as you know, don't flow well in cold weather. Of course, some transfer pumps can move water up from 50 feet down to a 100 feet up.
I think my girlfriend might have some transfer pump DNA !!
From 50 ft down? You mean suction?
Air pressure is only 15 psi which works out to be maximum of 30 ft lift for water.
Oil is a little bit lighter so maybe a pure vacuum would pull it up 40 ft.
@@henryD9363 I misunderstood the specs on the pump I was reading. It was a submersible pump.
YES, thank you Wes for another video. I was going through Watch Wes Work withdrawals. Keep up the good work.
I think the gear oil was too thick for the pumper. You could see it aerating the output. I would suspect if you preheated the gear oil, it would work better. But yeah those things definitely are 'viscosity aware'. heh
What is the tool that you use for squeezing tubes of silicone? I saw you use it one episode.
The differential is a modern marvel. It works by magic as you say.
Hi Wes,
Would your new pump toy work better if you heated the gear lube first? Maybe even hot tap water enough to help.
Thanks for the great video.
Take care Wes
I've used something similar on a boat.
I'd highly recommend using an additional friction modifier and not just what comes in the gear oil. I understand it states the friction modifier is included, however I still wouldn't trust it. Good job as always, some of the best mechanic related videos on TH-cam!
Wes, Very informative and detailed breakdown/rebuild! I learned a lot! Thank You.
I did that repair without removing the center unit by using a long piece of threadall through the axle tube. SO easy! Big time saver!
On the spider gears to hold the washer use a dab of grease to hold then makes it just a bit easier
Did I miss the "Vent Kit" installation ??? And yeah, bet that cordless drill pump had a tough time with 140 viscosity lube ... holy crap that's thick ... used to 70W-90 ... and bet you're wrong you could just "Squeeze it" faster. Good job and thanks for taking time to explain the limited slip operation. Look forward to you doing a "locker" like I have.
I've never encountered axle lube that stated it contained friction modifier that functioned like it contained friction modifier.
The lube was separate from the friction modifier fluid.
That was interesting, here I work on Toyota Landcruisers all the time, and we don't get snow, reasonable morning frost sometimes is all. And I still can't believe there are still so many vehicles with circlip axles over there. Thanks for showing what the LSD in them is and works.
I'm pretty certain that 9 out of 10 times the people who write service instructions for vehicles have never actually worked on a vehicle in their lives.
I'd say that of most of the people who design cars these days...
Writing out instructions is a common things to pass out to interns
That friction modifier is the stink that never ends. lol
It was easier in the olden days , when weird noise from drive axle was eliminated by stuffing it with banana peel. Worked pretty well to reduce unwanted attention to mechanical wear. Limited warranty was the downside. But for a quick sell.......that was doable.
Sawdust. Quiets down manual transmissions and rear axles. At least that’s what they used at the used car lot where my dad cut his teeth ‘fixing’ used cars for sale in the 1930’s.
Good video Wes and I like the way you explain how the differential works. So many people don’t know.