3:39 if you have to pry the cover off, try to pry from above the oil line, that way if you bend the cover slightly, it'll be far less prone to leak up at the top half. Great video!!
no leave 2 of the top bolts loosened halfway then use a 1" putty knife/spatula to pry the bottom till the lube oil drains into the pan. used lube oil smells almost as bad as sewage. if you do it from the top? most likely you're getting lube oil on your work area and you as well as in your pan.
My outer pinion bearing grenaded in my 9.75 (18' f150 3.5l eco) and... well it sucked. Towed it to two close shops and they quoted me an entire rear end replacement at $5k and $6k. It was over $4k just in parts! Ultimately, I decided to do it in myself in my driveway like god intended. It did take a while. First weekend: Tear down and order parts. New ring and pinion, new pinion bearings, new seals all around, and picked up a few rental tools from Orilleys. Second weekend: Salvaging pinion shim, cleaning everything, installing seals, and an entire 8 hrs screwing with the crush collar. Third weekend: Crushing the collar and putting it all together again. I ended up recycling the old crush collar by putting it on the old pinion and beating the shit out of it with a 3lb sledge, real methodical like. I made the old collar about 1mm longer, which is only .5mm shorter than the new one. Cleaned it up real nice and it worked like a charm. I still had to borrow the neighbors 3x torque multiplier to crush it back down, but it worked great (12-16 in/lb resistance). Turned out the stock shims worked perfect and backlash ended up at 10 thou - slightly below spec but I figured since everything was FoCo and the marking pattern was awesome, it'll do. No noise, everything is smooth, and I'm around 100 miles since the rebuild - so we will see. Ended up taking about $900 in parts and $400 in tools. Saved around $4k and from what I can tell so far, the problem is solved. I'll be hauling a 1000lb bed load 200 miles tomorrow and I'll report back to give thanks to robinsonauto if all goes well haha.
“Hope I will be able to lift this tonight cause it’s been a long day.” Heard that brother I know that feeling at the end of most days. I am a 35 year old shop owner and ASE technician but feel like I’m a 65 year old man who’s boxed his whole life hahaha
Thanks for your video, I'm going to have to repair my Z71, 1999 , with 500,000 miles . Never messed with differential, so I'm resurrecting all all I can and I'm sure I can, somebody put it together. With all the good comments your viewers posted added to my bag of tricks of the trade. Thanks BR549, Deer Park Texas....oh my wife highly dose does not like rear end nose as well, manly when it has the smell like burnt differential oil, lol
I have a hum in my rear end as well i have just learned to live with it, I like your video i like your work your plain straight and to the point i cant wait for part 2 and if your able to repair this rear end I'm thinking i might tackle mine as well
Likewise.....my rear has been noisy for about 3 yrs now.......just learned to live with it. I just changed the oil in it, and no surprises....so that's good
I liked the giggles from your camerawoman toward the end! The last rear end I worked on was for my 2004 Z71 Suburban. I wish I knew what I did wrong, but the rear burned up driving from Tennessee to North Carolina. I had it towed to my home which is on a hill. The tow truck operator dropped it off in my steep driveway and without the rear end, it immediately rolled down the hill and crashed into a tree (with no one except my poor golden retriever in a crate in the back) . The airbags deployed and the suburban was totalled. The retriever was fine! I love challenges, but I'm not sure I want another challenge this difficult ... the spacers, which I understand are the most important and difficult to get right, were tough.
Excellent, very well explained, even a low knowledged amateur can get an understanding, I decided not to do it myself on my toy project. I haven't go the tools and experience, your video has spared me a lot of troubles.
Looking forward to part two. Have seen a rear fail because of the "spider gears"? 12:02 The four sprockets that surround the pin broke into three pieces. The guy was driving on the highway going 55-60 MPH. Axle didn't lock up thank goodness. Was able to tow him to my house with a tow chain. Swapped rear out and he was on his way the next day.
Apollyon εжз it happens, less likely on these but yes, part two is coming, proving to be a bear to edit, should have some spare time. Coming up. I do a lot of this stuff real time
Thanks of the video. My 2010 F150 FX4 is making similar noise and been getting worse. It may not be same problem, but I'll jack it up and check for play like you did to get started.
Definitely a worn ring and pinion noise. Didn't look like you drained much oil when you removed the cover. Everything appears dark and burned unless my glasses are dirty...{:>) You sound like you're tired so take it easy my friend. Don't burn yourself out.
I'm wondering if someone over-torqued the pinion nut and screwed up the crush sleeve. It looked like the pinion needed to extend into the housing further to avoid running on the outside of the crown gear teeth and rolling the edge - and that should also get rid of that horrible lash at the same time. **crosses fingers and waits to see the outcome** :-D
Get the front shop. You'll start to grow fast enough if treating people right. Or you'll regret it in no time. I've made that mistake. Part of it is *thinking small*. Probably a custom car audio and alarm outfit will grab it and you'll *REALLY* regret it. Drive you bananas
Yeah I did the same damn thing dude and fell straight out like that I packed the differential bearings with grease to keep the races from falling off freaking nightmare
I really hate to work, especially on a rear end, where someone else has been messing with it. Going to be expensive for your friend. Great job on the video Will !
sure isn't much room for error on differential set ups the preloads and backlash and gear mesh adjustments are very teadous on setup! lol ive watched all these videos great job your a real pro will!
I'm going to guess the pinion bearing is toast. If you look carefully between 14:02 and 14:15 when he's checking backlash the pinion looks to be rocking up and down a bit (as well as rotating). (focus on the dot on the face of the pinion not the teeth). If it's just bearings is it really necessary to change the ring and pinion. Those gears are really big and tough. Once you get the bearings done wouldn't it be enough to just re-lash everything with appropriate spacers and be done with it. The worn corners on the ring make no difference once it's working properly. Unless of course the pinion is really damaged from that. This is an old vehicle anyway. But I guess they expect it to be done like new if they're paying for it. A bit different when your doing it for yourself I guess. Can't wait for part two.
Please start wearing your hearing and eye protection (PPE), and use impact sockets instead of chrome sockets with your impact wrench. It only takes a moment to do these things; the bonus is you get to go home tonight with your hearing and vision intact. A pretty good deal when you think about it.
Cost me 3 grand for my rear end and after seeing you do it I think its a job for a guy like me.....well done vid and don`t buy the rest of the sshop....more employees less money more trouble...bin there now that....SALUTE.....STEVE ROB sent me so I sub and rang your bell
adds up quick, part two coming soon where i cover more however, if you where to do the work, parts will set you back around $1,200 this is buying everything from Ford OEM minus ring and pinion. that i had to purchase aftermarket due to ratio change. said price includes ring and pinion, Thank you for stopping by and Subscribing!
OK mister Apollyon....I could have bought a junk yard rear end that was just as bad as mine and spent all that tire and have to do it again....not my thing....sorry...I lived and I learned....SALUTE
The driveshaft is balanced alone.. Marking it only serves to put the worn out parts. Back in the same place..As the second you put new U-Joints on. The wear is changed anyways..If they wear at all... I would add. Those are not spacers. They are friction washers for the bearings.. You adjust the lash by removing the plugs on each side of the axle housing. Then you will see the adjusting nut.. You can turn it with a screw driver in\out to align the rear axle...
Some Manufacturers have been going places that use underrated materials for long time. I had a 1968 Chevy 3/4 4WD with Rockwell transfer case . My old timer mechanic said the brass parts were from Mexico ? And, we’re always the first part to go. Underrated materials. Where and why does Ford do this to one of America’s beloved trucks ?!!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The only time I ever pulled a rear end like that apart was in trade school some 20 years ago... I don't miss it. The lack of brakes on the left was like... WHAT!!!???
super great tear down Will ! It's going to be $$ for parts on this one man .. Glad he brought it to you before it exploded inside .. Thumbs up.. Ahh... And keep the space you have for now man, Don't expand to soon ! can make for problems with the overhead and more paychecks going out , Also hard to find help that is in the same caliber as you are !! JUST MY THOUGHTS ..LOL!!
It does not matter wear the spacers were you still have to reset up. The diff if your going to do it write all you have todo is look on the ring gear and its stamped on the gear and it should be stamped on the pinion
Have a 9.75 3.55 limited slip on the rear of my F150 and was going to do a fluid change. I'm going to use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil with the friction modifier built in but would love your thoughts. (And anyone elses) No strange noises coming from it at the moment but enjoying this vid. lol
Armando Gutierrez “Real mechanics” as you put it have suffered from abnormally high rates of skin and liver cancers for years. When you analyze the toxins in the used fluids we deal with every day it’s not difficult to understand why. Lead, Mercury, and poisons are absorbed through a mechanic’s skin every day. I’ve been a professional mechanic for 30 years. I’m as “real “ as it gets and gloves are a wise move for young bucks just starting out.
Michael Herbert she sure is, I will pass the compliment on to Tammy! ;) thank you. someone must of had a better idea! unreal I couldn't believe it either. thats what I meant by my the reaction after removing the rotor. there should be a E brake setup on both sides. wish I had that answer. all the parts are missing as well
Great video my freind and is no the end of the world on that project how other people say buuuuuuuut if some one whit great skills and knologies like you can handle it nice and well What ever the mechanic before o do it yourself did it the gear up forget put enougth oil on it bad calibration too so like chain reaction Thanks for shear the video say hi from jacksonville fl keeping posting and i would like to see the part 2 video Thanks
Been in the business for 25 yrs. find a whole low mileage rear end assembly. You get paid r&r time but don’t have to stand behind a gear repair particularly with a lifted/abused truck.
Wayne Swicegood I agree but its one of the things I specialize in around here. do lots of gear swaps three a month on average that includes front and rear. That's 6 difs a month makes up a large amount of the shops income. Do them in my sleep 😴 not to mention this was not a stock ratio on this truck! Both difs would of had to be swapped to stock in your scenario
robinsonsauto I wasn’t aware that you specialize in truck diff repair. I’m a general repair shop. It’s not worth the money for me to tie up a tech and a lift to do the occasional worn diff. We see. It’s more profitable for us and a quicker repair for the customers to find low mileage salvage units.
Looks like he drained a good pint out of that diff. Technical term? smoked. They probably didn't refill it when they swapped the axle seal. Can't leak if there's no oil in it?
Definitely worn ring and pinion, and from how you turned the pinion, it looks like the pinion bearings are worn too since there's no preload. With all the shenanigans going on, I'd also check the ratio up front to make sure it matches.
4:56 Use the 11 and up r&p with the conversion bearings, delete the crush sleeve. Dont bother replacing the clutches, you wont get them in, just get a new carrier with a yukon torsen unit.
I liked and appreciate this video series. However I have an issue that I may have caused with mine. I put very excessive carrier bearing preload. According to Yukon you almost can't overdo it. I upgraded from open to limited slip. I used my same shims as before 9/10 you will get it right. My marking compound looked great I am noticing far too many shavings on my magnet. SO, I will be pulling mine apart again. I did NOT mark my retainer caps. I did get the correct side but I may have 1 or both upside down. The old 8.8s used to have arrows that pointed out towards the axle. I can't tell in any video any distinct marking from FORD that denotes which way they go. What way is the lettinging facing? I am looking for clues for when I put mine back together.
Great video on taking apart the rear axle. When taking off the pumpkin cover do you think it would help loosen if a heat gun were used to heat up the seal? 3:15
Tech tip. Place a 2x4 vertical under the ledge of the hump of the pan and pump on it with a jack to exert a shearing force on the sealant. On aluminum pans like the 6.4 there isn’t an curved edge to get a putty knife between the pan and the housing. Leaving a bolt on each side and applying a shearing force to the pan works every time and isn’t invasive.
So like the hub bearings in front are on the sides....the rearend bearings are in the middle??What kind of price for this job? I believe my explorer has the same noise.
I have an f150 -2005 I bought it like in November 2004 right off the brand new ford dealer had about 30 miles on it and I now have around 58k I hardly ever driven it and had this kind of problem for several years I now have a slip when I accelerate at stop and go points I don’t know if it’s coming from the differential or trans I need to get fix but I clicked on your video to see what it might involve so I don’t get robbed too bad sorry so long of a comment. Can you give me any advice please, and man you sure are relaxed I’m a mess just thinking about it I’ve would of started beating the hell out of that truck with a sledge and just faced the consequences. Thanks I do wish you the best great video, now I’ll watch part two, and I did subscribe. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
He made a comment about only one side brakes being done. Well shops have gotten so expensive and we normal people can't afford to have both sides. Done.
I have a weird shudder or vibration in the rearend that occurs while very lightly applying the gas around 40-50mph. And I noticed the same sensation in the rearend when the car downgeared a few times when I hit the gas on the free way. It's not constant which is weird. And the car shifts great under hard accelerating and braking.
Mine shudders from 54-64 mph if cruising. I thought it was the rear end, but was told it was a misfire in the motor. Not enough of one to throw a definite code, or to make the check engine light come on…they told me a timing job would “almost certainly fix the problem”. Yea, just $2,800 for a POSSIBLE fix
@@TrevorLahey3 I had the same issue. '05 F150. I bought a cheap ( like 40CAD) Bluetooth OBD2 ( it's blue says "Veepeak" on it) of the jungle website. I recomend using it with the Torque app, as there is an xml config file you can put in the directory on your device that will give you REAL TIME misfire data on a per cyl basis. This is mapped specifically at the mode 6 data for misfire count, and gives you customizable display options. I was able to use it to not only diagnose the misfire condition, but also a subsequent CVT solenoid issue ( which can also cause what you are seeing) . If it is phasers, the VCT system, or the oil system ( pump, cam passages, solenoid screen being pluged, hydraulic tensioners blowing their seal (causes a drop in oil pressure which will affect VCT functionality, as it uses oil pressure to actuate the variable timing. If you put it in gear, torque load it by putting the brakes on, and giving it between 900 and 111 rpm and hold it there. If it is in that system anywhere, the truck WILL shudder, stumble and misfire. Having a low oil level also will cause it. Ultimately the fix was me doing the a whole new timing set, new phasers, new vct solenoids, a new high pressure oil pump, and a move to 5W30. The subsequent VCT solenoid issue would ONLY happen when the truck was hot and the oil warmed up. Turns out, shitty Chinese solenoids will do that. picked up the FoMoCo ones, and we are A1 3 years later. All told cost me about 1200CAD in parts. I did NOT but the Ford phasers ( I know SHAME ON ME), but rather a newer version of the cloyes full kit from Summit Racing. I admit, it was a gamble, but they are holding up, so fingers crossed?
I found a 98 f150 on Facebook and he said its rear diff gears. Would you say it's easier and/or better to remove the inside of the diff or just replace the diff and axles?
3:39 if you have to pry the cover off, try to pry from above the oil line, that way if you bend the cover slightly, it'll be far less prone to leak up at the top half.
Great video!!
Great thought, I'll file this away in my think holder.
no leave 2 of the top bolts loosened halfway then use a 1" putty knife/spatula to pry the bottom till the lube oil drains into the pan. used lube oil smells almost as bad as sewage.
if you do it from the top? most likely you're getting lube oil on your work area and you as well as in your pan.
No need for all that, a thin blade from practically anything will work without bending the cover. Takes more time to remove but easily doable.
My outer pinion bearing grenaded in my 9.75 (18' f150 3.5l eco) and... well it sucked. Towed it to two close shops and they quoted me an entire rear end replacement at $5k and $6k. It was over $4k just in parts! Ultimately, I decided to do it in myself in my driveway like god intended. It did take a while. First weekend: Tear down and order parts. New ring and pinion, new pinion bearings, new seals all around, and picked up a few rental tools from Orilleys. Second weekend: Salvaging pinion shim, cleaning everything, installing seals, and an entire 8 hrs screwing with the crush collar. Third weekend: Crushing the collar and putting it all together again. I ended up recycling the old crush collar by putting it on the old pinion and beating the shit out of it with a 3lb sledge, real methodical like. I made the old collar about 1mm longer, which is only .5mm shorter than the new one. Cleaned it up real nice and it worked like a charm. I still had to borrow the neighbors 3x torque multiplier to crush it back down, but it worked great (12-16 in/lb resistance). Turned out the stock shims worked perfect and backlash ended up at 10 thou - slightly below spec but I figured since everything was FoCo and the marking pattern was awesome, it'll do. No noise, everything is smooth, and I'm around 100 miles since the rebuild - so we will see. Ended up taking about $900 in parts and $400 in tools. Saved around $4k and from what I can tell so far, the problem is solved. I'll be hauling a 1000lb bed load 200 miles tomorrow and I'll report back to give thanks to robinsonauto if all goes well haha.
Man lots of work but you one smart cookie man! I congrats to you.
“Hope I will be able to lift this tonight cause it’s been a long day.” Heard that brother I know that feeling at the end of most days. I am a 35 year old shop owner and ASE technician but feel like I’m a 65 year old man who’s boxed his whole life hahaha
Thanks for your video, I'm going to have to repair my Z71, 1999 , with 500,000 miles . Never messed with differential, so I'm resurrecting all all I can and I'm sure I can, somebody put it together. With all the good comments your viewers posted added to my bag of tricks of the trade. Thanks BR549, Deer Park Texas....oh my wife highly dose does not like rear end nose as well, manly when it has the smell like burnt differential oil, lol
You are a very good teacher. Not exciting but somehow very captivating. Felt like you’re my big brother showing me how to do something.
I followed all 3 videos and I got my gears changed out. Very helpful from start to finish.
It's great to see videos by a guy that knows what he's doing... If you could speed things up, that would make a big improvement.
You teach very well, I definitely appreciate your patience and skills brother 👍
I learn the most by fixing other people’s mistakes
I have a hum in my rear end as well i have just learned to live with it, I like your video i like your work your plain straight and to the point i cant wait for part 2 and if your able to repair this rear end I'm thinking i might tackle mine as well
Likewise.....my rear has been noisy for about 3 yrs now.......just learned to live with it. I just changed the oil in it, and no surprises....so that's good
@@powerking73 on mine, it gets louder as you speed up...about 30mph+ almost like a whirr
I liked the giggles from your camerawoman toward the end! The last rear end I worked on was for my 2004 Z71 Suburban. I wish I knew what I did wrong, but the rear burned up driving from Tennessee to North Carolina. I had it towed to my home which is on a hill. The tow truck operator dropped it off in my steep driveway and without the rear end, it immediately rolled down the hill and crashed into a tree (with no one except my poor golden retriever in a crate in the back) . The airbags deployed and the suburban was totalled. The retriever was fine! I love challenges, but I'm not sure I want another challenge this difficult ... the spacers, which I understand are the most important and difficult to get right, were tough.
Excellent, very well explained, even a low knowledged amateur can get an understanding, I decided not to do it myself on my toy project. I haven't go the tools and experience, your video has spared me a lot of troubles.
Excellent vid. The engineering, designs, and functions of differentials fascinate me.
Looking forward to part two.
Have seen a rear fail because of the "spider gears"? 12:02 The four sprockets that surround the pin broke into three pieces.
The guy was driving on the highway going 55-60 MPH. Axle didn't lock up thank goodness. Was able to tow him to my house with a tow chain. Swapped rear out and he was on his way the next day.
Apollyon εжз it happens, less likely on these but yes, part two is coming, proving to be a bear to edit, should have some spare time. Coming up. I do a lot of this stuff real time
Thanks of the video. My 2010 F150 FX4 is making similar noise and been getting worse. It may not be same problem, but I'll jack it up and check for play like you did to get started.
What was your problem on the 2010?
That was a noisy SOG. Can't wait for part two.
sure was, thank you
Definitely a worn ring and pinion noise. Didn't look like you drained much oil when you removed the cover. Everything appears dark and burned unless my glasses are dirty...{:>)
You sound like you're tired so take it easy my friend. Don't burn yourself out.
wysetech2000 very good assumption as always! And nope you glasses 👓 are ok!lol thank you 👍
I'm wondering if someone over-torqued the pinion nut and screwed up the crush sleeve. It looked like the pinion needed to extend into the housing further to avoid running on the outside of the crown gear teeth and rolling the edge - and that should also get rid of that horrible lash at the same time. **crosses fingers and waits to see the outcome** :-D
The gear oil with friction modifier mixed in (for the limited slip) coats everything over time with something like shoe polish.
I just watched part 2,sorry I understand now.good work.
Love the videos man, keep them coming. Can't wait to see what you do!
TheTexasCoder awesome thank you, I will try and have edited soon, this was realtime when posted
Nice one buddy. Nothing was stock on the rear end starting with the lift kit and trac bars. Oh boy this is going to get expensive . HAHA
Thank you Steve. someone tried hard on this one to say the least, do what we can and see how it goes right.
I hope you've expanded the size of your shop by now.. I subscribed. Great video. Cheers!
Thank you for subscribing! With hope in the near future
Great demonstration
What did this repair end up costing?
Get the front shop. You'll start to grow fast enough if treating people right. Or you'll regret it in no time. I've made that mistake. Part of it is *thinking small*. Probably a custom car audio and alarm outfit will grab it and you'll *REALLY* regret it. Drive you bananas
acs4llc good advice, I need to see if I can manage. Thank you for the feedback
Yeah I did the same damn thing dude and fell straight out like that I packed the differential bearings with grease to keep the races from falling off freaking nightmare
in the old days they used to put saw dust in the differential oil to keep whining and grinding down
tracycolorado lol I heard that before, ok I'm calling this! 11:55am this one needs the heart of a cherry tree 🌲
@@robinsonsauto thats thru
"Noisy rear ends" tickled my sophomoric sense of humor.
I really hate to work, especially on a rear end, where someone else has been messing with it. Going to be expensive for your friend. Great job on the video Will !
im with you on that one 100% its the worst. thank you for the feedback and compliments
Ron Baynes lazy american, cant believe you say you dont like to work, and they wonder why mexicans take you job. Huh
Chuy he means he hates to work on something where someone else has been messing with it, especially a rear end.
sure isn't much room for error on differential set ups the preloads and backlash and gear mesh adjustments are very teadous on setup! lol ive watched all these videos great job your a real pro will!
I'm going to guess the pinion bearing is toast. If you look carefully between 14:02 and 14:15 when he's checking backlash the pinion looks to be rocking up and down a bit (as well as rotating). (focus on the dot on the face of the pinion not the teeth). If it's just bearings is it really necessary to change the ring and pinion. Those gears are really big and tough. Once you get the bearings done wouldn't it be enough to just re-lash everything with appropriate spacers and be done with it. The worn corners on the ring make no difference once it's working properly. Unless of course the pinion is really damaged from that. This is an old vehicle anyway. But I guess they expect it to be done like new if they're paying for it. A bit different when your doing it for yourself I guess. Can't wait for part two.
You're pretty good Boss!!!
Hello Will, Great Video....looking forward to part 2
hello thanks for stopping by, hope you enjoy part 2
Ahh, the smell of a differential, nothing worse in the automotive world IMO....thanks for the video.
Please start wearing your hearing and eye protection (PPE), and use impact sockets instead of chrome sockets with your impact wrench. It only takes a moment to do these things; the bonus is you get to go home tonight with your hearing and vision intact. A pretty good deal when you think about it.
Not even sure why im tellin you guys that. Me either, but it was a nice story.
Cost me 3 grand for my rear end and after seeing you do it I think its a job for a guy like me.....well done vid and don`t buy the rest of the sshop....more employees less money more trouble...bin there now that....SALUTE.....STEVE ROB sent me so I sub and rang your bell
adds up quick, part two coming soon where i cover more however, if you where to do the work, parts will set you back around $1,200 this is buying everything from Ford OEM minus ring and pinion. that i had to purchase aftermarket due to ratio change. said price includes ring and pinion, Thank you for stopping by and Subscribing!
Gator's World That Steve Rob is a good guy.
changes ratio, can't be bothered to do maintenance, idiots.
Gator's World Wow, you could have gotten an entire rear-end from the junk yard for $200 and just swapped it out in an afternoon.
OK mister Apollyon....I could have bought a junk yard rear end that was just as bad as mine and spent all that tire and have to do it again....not my thing....sorry...I lived and I learned....SALUTE
Mark ever tenth tooth, makes counting easier.
The gear ratio is stamped on the ring gear.
The driveshaft is balanced alone.. Marking it only serves to put the worn out parts. Back in the same place..As the second you put new U-Joints on. The wear is changed anyways..If they wear at all...
I would add. Those are not spacers. They are friction washers for the bearings.. You adjust the lash by removing the plugs on each side of the axle housing. Then you will see the adjusting nut.. You can turn it with a screw driver in\out to align the rear axle...
i can feel a bumping coming from my rear end when i take off from a complete stop. it doesnt do it every time but it is becoming more frequent
For anyone doing a drain or inspection, expect a flood of fluid and not a drip like this one. You should get at least a quart right out of the gate.
Some Manufacturers have been going places that use underrated materials for long time.
I had a 1968 Chevy 3/4 4WD with Rockwell transfer case . My old timer mechanic said the brass parts were from Mexico ? And, we’re always the first part to go. Underrated materials.
Where and why does Ford do this to one of America’s beloved trucks ?!!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The only time I ever pulled a rear end like that apart was in trade school some 20 years ago... I don't miss it. The lack of brakes on the left was like... WHAT!!!???
00:11. I think he just called Tammy a "noisy rear end". He may be right by watching this vid. Lmao
Right Tammy? Hillarious ! That got u a sub
Nice video on f150 rearend noise. Suggestion: speak up a little for us ole folks. Lol. Thanks !
Turn up the volume
Good, nice and slow. My 2005 f1504wd, is humming like a jbird, (loud).
super great tear down Will ! It's going to be $$ for parts on this one man .. Glad he brought it to you before it exploded inside .. Thumbs up.. Ahh... And keep the space you have for now man, Don't expand to soon ! can make for problems with the overhead and more paychecks going out , Also hard to find help that is in the same caliber as you are !! JUST MY THOUGHTS ..LOL!!
It does not matter wear the spacers were you still have to reset up. The diff if your going to do it write all you have todo is look on the ring gear and its stamped on the gear and it should be stamped on the pinion
if smoke smell coming out of there thats mean need to replace to a new one ?
Great video i didnt see much oil come out the diff so was it low too also i didnt know Tam had a noisey rear end lol
Paul Mayou it was a little low, yea I try not to broadcast it to much 😆👀👍😋😂🤣 i hope she don't read this one ☝️🤳
lmao fingers crossed she dont see it if she does well i`ll take the blame
Have a 9.75 3.55 limited slip on the rear of my F150 and was going to do a fluid change. I'm going to use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil with the friction modifier built in but would love your thoughts. (And anyone elses)
No strange noises coming from it at the moment but enjoying this vid. lol
I like the fact that you don't use rubber gloves, like a real mechanic. I'm not a mechanic but when I pamper my ride I don't use gloves. 🤪🤪
Armando Gutierrez “Real mechanics” as you put it have suffered from abnormally high rates of skin and liver cancers for years. When you analyze the toxins in the used fluids we deal with every day it’s not difficult to understand why. Lead, Mercury, and poisons are absorbed through a mechanic’s skin every day. I’ve been a professional mechanic for 30 years. I’m as “real “ as it gets and gloves are a wise move for young bucks just starting out.
@@prevost8686 good tip. Thanks.
Tammy is great with the camera. Great video. Where are the parking brake shoes? I've never seen or heard of them only being on one side.
Michael Herbert she sure is, I will pass the compliment on to Tammy! ;) thank you. someone must of had a better idea! unreal I couldn't believe it either. thats what I meant by my the reaction after removing the rotor. there should be a E brake setup on both sides. wish I had that answer. all the parts are missing as well
Thanks for the knowledge 👍.
18:35 would be me. Then I'd be screwed trying to figure out how to put those parts back in that fell out 🤣
great video!.
Good stuff!
Is my axle housing shot if there’s a leak between the cast gear housing and steel tube connection?
The drive shaft lol
Thank you
Great video my freind and is no the end of the world on that project how other people say buuuuuuuut if some one whit great skills and knologies like you can handle it nice and well
What ever the mechanic before o do it yourself did it the gear up forget put enougth oil on it bad calibration too so like chain reaction
Thanks for shear the video say hi from jacksonville fl keeping posting and i would like to see the part 2 video
Thanks
Really good content...excellent information
Been in the business for 25 yrs. find a whole low mileage rear end assembly. You get paid r&r time but don’t have to stand behind a gear repair particularly with a lifted/abused truck.
Wayne Swicegood I agree but its one of the things I specialize in around here. do lots of gear swaps three a month on average that includes front and rear. That's 6 difs a month makes up a large amount of the shops income. Do them in my sleep 😴 not to mention this was not a stock ratio on this truck! Both difs would of had to be swapped to stock in your scenario
robinsonsauto I wasn’t aware that you specialize in truck diff repair. I’m a general repair shop. It’s not worth the money for me to tie up a tech and a lift to do the occasional worn diff. We see. It’s more profitable for us and a quicker repair for the customers to find low mileage salvage units.
Looks like he drained a good pint out of that diff. Technical term? smoked. They probably didn't refill it when they swapped the axle seal. Can't leak if there's no oil in it?
Excellent video thank you very much....
it's a common problem with the 04-06 ring and pinion. maybe even up to 2010 and back to 2000
i do see many more fords lol just saying you may be on to something
Definitely worn ring and pinion, and from how you turned the pinion, it looks like the pinion bearings are worn too since there's no preload. With all the shenanigans going on, I'd also check the ratio up front to make sure it matches.
good call! and great suggestion, the gear ratio indeed matches the front. i wouldn't have been to surprised though like you mentioned
4:56
Use the 11 and up r&p with the conversion bearings, delete the crush sleeve.
Dont bother replacing the clutches, you wont get them in, just get a new carrier with a yukon torsen unit.
Please send me a list of bullet proof stuff to rebuild mine! Gears are fine, I checked. The bearings are just making a racket. 2011 F150 with the 9.75
Didn't seem like much gear oil drained out while removing cover. I think new gears are in order.
I believe it was neglected for some time
@@robinsonsauto replacing the entire rear end would be the best choice.
Wow, that poor truck has not had an easy life!
klc317 my thoughts exactly lol
What makes you think that?
Try Randy ring and pinion you get everything you need including a bearing kit
And Chinese parts.
Read the box.
The Randy's of 20 years ago is long past.
I liked and appreciate this video series. However I have an issue that I may have caused with mine. I put very excessive carrier bearing preload. According to Yukon you almost can't overdo it. I upgraded from open to limited slip. I used my same shims as before 9/10 you will get it right. My marking compound looked great I am noticing far too many shavings on my magnet. SO, I will be pulling mine apart again. I did NOT mark my retainer caps. I did get the correct side but I may have 1 or both upside down. The old 8.8s used to have arrows that pointed out towards the axle. I can't tell in any video any distinct marking from FORD that denotes which way they go. What way is the lettinging facing? I am looking for clues for when I put mine back together.
Did any gear oil come out? I sure didn't see any.
Great video
Tim webb thank you
Cool tutorial Bro'
This is fascinating, unfortunately my 2004 town car has the same issue. $$$$
My 2004 Expedition has a faint wine at 57 mph. I can live with it if it doesn't get any worse. The wine disappears at plus or minus 2 mph.
Great video on taking apart the rear axle. When taking off the pumpkin cover do you think it would help loosen if a heat gun were used to heat up the seal? 3:15
Unlikely. Typically silicone is highly resistant to heat.
will Where in pa are you located i saw that sign that said junction 29 and i am in Phoenixville
It would round to a 4.56:1 not a 4.6
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4 L 2wd. How can I tell the ring gear size (8.8 or 9.75)?
There should be a tag on one of the cover bolts
One needs patience of a saint.
So the 9.75 ring & pinion are the bearings that hold the main gear in place?
I have a 99 ford expedition with same noise problem in the rear does this video relate to my issue
Tech tip. Place a 2x4 vertical under the ledge of the hump of the pan and pump on it with a jack to exert a shearing force on the sealant. On aluminum pans like the 6.4 there isn’t an curved edge to get a putty knife between the pan and the housing. Leaving a bolt on each side and applying a shearing force to the pan works every time and isn’t invasive.
Buen trabajo 👍🏼
Yore the best !!!
So like the hub bearings in front are on the sides....the rearend bearings are in the middle??What kind of price for this job? I believe my explorer has the same noise.
I have an f150 -2005 I bought it like in November 2004 right off the brand new ford dealer had about 30 miles on it and I now have around 58k I hardly ever driven it and had this kind of problem for several years I now have a slip when I accelerate at stop and go points I don’t know if it’s coming from the differential or trans I need to get fix but I clicked on your video to see what it might involve so I don’t get robbed too bad sorry so long of a comment.
Can you give me any advice please, and man you sure are relaxed I’m a mess just thinking about it I’ve would of started beating the hell out of that truck with a sledge and just faced the consequences.
Thanks I do wish you the best great video, now I’ll watch part two, and I did subscribe.
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
SCARFACE63 CAPONE09 these trucks shouldn’t have any transmission issues that miles that low.
Just a question,I understand the ring and pinion have some wear.was it possible to reshim or set-up the rear end again?
He made a comment about only one side brakes being done. Well shops have gotten so expensive and we normal people can't afford to have both sides. Done.
By the way Early Merry Christmas
I have a weird shudder or vibration in the rearend that occurs while very lightly applying the gas around 40-50mph. And I noticed the same sensation in the rearend when the car downgeared a few times when I hit the gas on the free way. It's not constant which is weird. And the car shifts great under hard accelerating and braking.
Mine shudders from 54-64 mph if cruising. I thought it was the rear end, but was told it was a misfire in the motor. Not enough of one to throw a definite code, or to make the check engine light come on…they told me a timing job would “almost certainly fix the problem”. Yea, just $2,800 for a POSSIBLE fix
@@TrevorLahey3 I had the same issue. '05 F150. I bought a cheap ( like 40CAD) Bluetooth OBD2 ( it's blue says "Veepeak" on it) of the jungle website. I recomend using it with the Torque app, as there is an xml config file you can put in the directory on your device that will give you REAL TIME misfire data on a per cyl basis. This is mapped specifically at the mode 6 data for misfire count, and gives you customizable display options. I was able to use it to not only diagnose the misfire condition, but also a subsequent CVT solenoid issue ( which can also cause what you are seeing) . If it is phasers, the VCT system, or the oil system ( pump, cam passages, solenoid screen being pluged, hydraulic tensioners blowing their seal (causes a drop in oil pressure which will affect VCT functionality, as it uses oil pressure to actuate the variable timing. If you put it in gear, torque load it by putting the brakes on, and giving it between 900 and 111 rpm and hold it there. If it is in that system anywhere, the truck WILL shudder, stumble and misfire. Having a low oil level also will cause it.
Ultimately the fix was me doing the a whole new timing set, new phasers, new vct solenoids, a new high pressure oil pump, and a move to 5W30. The subsequent VCT solenoid issue would ONLY happen when the truck was hot and the oil warmed up. Turns out, shitty Chinese solenoids will do that. picked up the FoMoCo ones, and we are A1 3 years later. All told cost me about 1200CAD in parts. I did NOT but the Ford phasers ( I know SHAME ON ME), but rather a newer version of the cloyes full kit from Summit Racing. I admit, it was a gamble, but they are holding up, so fingers crossed?
I live on Dallas..
Brave man messing with burnt gear oil and no gloves.
Great I dea using the rotors to stand the axles up with
I found a 98 f150 on Facebook and he said its rear diff gears. Would you say it's easier and/or better to remove the inside of the diff or just replace the diff and axles?
Can a warped rotor cause failure of a rear pinion seal on a differential?
My 02 f150 sounds like a crop duster airplane flying over when i get above 60 mph any thoughts?
👍 👍 THANKS 🚹
This guy looks like Jacob from "LOST".... Buuut yeah, thanks for showing me this... Looks easier than people say.
Whoever thinks you can leave the diff fluid inside and never change it beware. There is no lifetime fluid in a diff