Another benefit of bare shaft tuning is it really helps you concentrate on your form. Any imperfection in your form will be obvious with a bare shaft (especially through paper), but fletching can hide a lot of issues.
This process has changed my life lol.. I've been building arrows now for 3 maybe 4 years.. and thanks to the fairy I have the best flying arrows to my ability.. I love to build them, I enjoy the process. I had a really bad case of target panic and now I'm finally getting over that thanks to Joel turner. So now that I know how you shoot haha and I have perfect arrow flight and my bow is turned.... it's crazy how great I'm shooting. Troy you've been a big part of that brother and I appreciate the videos.
If you use lighted nocks, SIGHT IN with lighted nocks and broadheads. Even with well tuned arrow setups, broadheads can fly different than field points, sometimes several inches. I always clock broadheads (orient them the same for each arrow) to mimic the same arrow dynamics. If broadhead hits 2 inches to the left of field point, orienting them will make all of them hit very close to that, and then of course just sight in for the broadhead. I sight in for a number one arrow, and that will be the first arrow to be shot at game. Good luck on your trip.
No doubt, I know what it takes. Took ten years off hunting, got back into it. Hunted with a crossbow and still getting the bow hunting straight. Two years of compound prep and practice after 10 years off. 10 years ago I shot my bow nearly every day and until I'm that good and proficient again I will not release another arrow at a deer. Crossbow was a great tool to get back into hunting but even with that I prepped countless hours before hunting with it. If you can't respect that hunting takes hard work and preparation you should not be hunting.
Last year I decided to compound bow hunt for the first time. After much trial and error I had a decent set-up and arrows made in the bulls eye. However my arrow fight was not straight, I kept messing around and I got it ok but not right on. Then I came across your channel and started learning about your idea and what are the critical factors of an excellent arrow and bow configuration. So after watching the arrow set-up videos using the Ranch Fairy test kit, I really wanted to try it. BUT I still hesitated until I saw the kid with the 50lb bow, who took down a deer and you called him a unicorn (which was hilarious). I shoot a 55lb youth bow due to my shoulder and a 26.75 draw. SO I really needed the FOC arrows and I broke down and bought a kit. I tested them, got really good results with the 300 spine and 200 grain tips. My hunting arrows came today and they fly so straight and hit so close to each other they looked like they were mating, not once, not twice but three times in a row. That's never happened before. SO thank you for your videos, glad I could put some gas money in your pocket, Hopefully I will have a few pictures of dead deer in the fall.
I just did 2 dozen arrows. One tip I learned form Dan McCarthy was to flex the arrows in a bow press put to points in each side of the shaft. find where the arrow wants to flex and which way. then put them all the same way they flex. I shot them all through paper and maybe had 3 or 4 that were off and the nock had to be touched. Saved so much time when I went to shoot them all though paper.
Just sent the email thanks and now new content. Awesome. Listen up folks, it just works. Did a little tinkering (limb driven rest anchor point was a GAME CHANGER) and my bow eats everything the Apollo test kit threw at it! Stoked for fall!
I always enjoy your videos thanks for educating the bowhunting public. Something that I think bareshaft tuners through paper should consider is a consistent tear. I have seen friends spend hours nock tuning and going crazy. If they cannot get a consistent tear with the same arrow , I have found that it's a form issue and you will go dingy trying to figure it out. I have never seen this discussed on any of the forums and I believe it is very important to have a consistent tear before you start nock tuning. Keep up the good work. John Krieg
thanks for the video. I would not have thought about cleaning out the tube after cutting, before inserting insert. Amazing how much crud you got out of there!
Yep it takes time but is totally worth it. I bare shaft paper tune, seems to help me, but make sure the paper is taught and frame its on is structurally sound and cant move. Drove me crazy trying to paper tune when I hung the paper on a ladder golf game. The pvc ladder golf frame would flex and give false tears in paper. Knock tunning really is black magic. Thanks Troy for all the info. Im shooting Black Eagle Carnivore’s at 655 grains total arrow weight with Kudu Contour two blade single bevel. Goes through em like butter.
Just in time to remind me to do it right.... Thinking probably should recheck the ones I was using last year since I didn't do the complete process. Love the channel, so happy you are doing these.
Thanks for this video Troy! Just ordered 6 apollos and 150 tuffhead evolutions to walk through this process myself. I did the “easy button” last summer. I had complete pass through on each deer I killed last fall using nearly the same setup as I’m trying this year. The tuffhead evolutions are awesome!
Thank you for the thoughtful content and encouraging others to put in the necessary time to produce accurate hunting arrows. I tend to conduct my broadhead shooting later in the season after my muscles and form comes into peak level. Good luck on your hunt.
If you’re the type of archer nerding out on arrow building then do yourself a huge favor and get the RAM arrow tool. Besides doing spine indexing, you can check the ends and not have to rely on your calibrated eye by spinning. Pro tip: if after cutting you find you still have a straighter end, that end gets the nock.
After bowhunting over 50 years, I have found the straightest and tightest arrow shafts I have ever shot. I purchased a dozen Arrowtech shafts from a company called Arrowtech Archery. These shafts group tighter than any shafts I have ever shot. I believe you mostly could get a free dozen from this company to test. I would really like to hear your review.
Way back when…I used hot melt on Easton xx75s. Now I use cool flex glue and an old field point. Heat the field point while installed in the insert and you can move it around. Then dip it in cool water to set the glue. The bonus is that you can repeat the process to remove the insert later for tuning or changing inserts etc. I let the excess setup and then just peel it off with my thumbnail. Thanks for what you are doing. More people need to pay attention to arrow weight, foc and tuning vs which new bow to buy this year. Too many hunting shows showing bad form and shot placement while just hyping the latest and greatest gear nobody needs. I digress…
I commented several videos back about being Native American and how our ancestor’ arrows were heavy and EFOC, I just weighed one of the deer hunting flint arrow heads I got from my grandfather. He was full blooded Cree/Blackfoot. It weighs 683 gr, with a chunk missing! So I’m sure it was 700-750gr before it went through the deer! The heads made of churt are even heavier! Just thought you would find that interesting. Especially since the shafts where made from light shit. Like reed, cedar or even mullen shoots and many bows were 40-50lb draw weight. Back to basics and relearning forgotten and lost knowledge!
Getting perfect arrow flight takes time, but not as much as trying to find a critter that you hit poorly because your arrows sucked. I do pretty much what you do except for the arrow spinner thingy. I don't have one so I still do the stand them on a broadhead and give them a spin deal. Same result. It is amazing to watch a perfectly tuned arrow zip through a deer. Ashby's work was directed toward arrow penetration, as you know. Perfect flight plays a HUGE role in achieving maximum penetration. When you are old and have arthritic shoulders like me, you need all the help you can get. Low bow poundage doesn't have to equal low penetration. Listen to the Fairy. He will help you get it done!
When I was younger in my teens I was shooting a bear recurve with wooden arrows with glued on broadheads all store bought so I'm getting ready to buy the stuff I need to make my own arrows. The info you give us makes sense if ya don't do the work you won't know the difference
Love the chanel great info I struggled a bit when first did bow wasn't right I'm new to archery it was difficult but now I got it all dialed in my next set be a lot easier I'm thinking cause now I know a lot of trial and error first time doing this
Tip: if your eyesight isn't great and you want to know if the insert is straight before It sets, just put the pointy end of the broadhead against your finger (lightly touching) when you spin it - you'll feel even a minute imbalance.
I’m 2 years into building adult arrows. Lots of head aches really. $89 broadhead 3 packs and then finding out they just won’t fly….. I believe for us hunter on a budget, this is the most important information. Building Pefect arrow flight with out the big cost of broad heads. I’m going to shot the magnus bee stinger 150grain.
Good stuff I just started to fletch myself own arrows. But I built some the lazy way. I would like to put those to the side and do the inset and nock tunes bare shaft shoot thing and see if they shoot better than that batch that I just threw together. Good stuff 👍🏻
First year I went through the entire process and I'm never looking back. Group sizes are a fraction of what I use to shoot. I don't even shoot for groups anymore because I am constantly wrecking my vanes.
Definitely a great reminder for us all. I really need to and want to build my own arrows this year after using factory for so long. My cousin who has the same draw length as I do let me borrow a couple different arrows that he built. I pretty much was stacking them on each other at the 3 o clock position right on the edge of the bullseye 🎯 vs my factory arrows which had more spread. Needless to say I was impressed. Side note I caught my first shark 🦈 last month in SC with my Marine officer brother. Caught a 3 ft bonnet head on a chunk of squid 🦑. He made pretty tasty 😋 shark 🦈 tacos 🌮
@@RanchFairy thank you 🙏 they’re about an inch too short for the broadheads that I want to use. Going to 300 from 350 and a hand built tuned arrow obviously made a difference, which I knew from years of watching your videos. Yes sharks 🦈 are cool 😎 and I definitely want to go after them again. The tug is the drug.
I watch all these other arrow tuning videos and guys are doing all sorts of adjustments to make their bare shaft group with their fletched shaft through paper and on target and then other guys are cutting arrows down bit by bit and adding point weight and all sorts of complicated stuff. I really am glad I found your videos because it seems like your simplified process is getting the same results as the other guys who are doing all sorts of crazy stuff that seems overly complicated to me.
Yeah, I tried to make it easier. Worst of all is the the great bow "tuning" lie. Which is super super complicated and requires a cauldron of dragon stew or a pro shop shaman on a certain moon phase, blood sacrifices, a seance isn't out of the question, etc. They can never, never, ever explain why what they did, did what it did. So I split my trad background with some basic facts and poof. Test kit.
You are an evil man. I tend to hyper focus on things and tinker. I have been shooting bows for close to 10 years. Hunting using a bow on and off over that 10 years. I never got this in-depth with arrow builds before. I have fletched my own arrows for almost the same length of time. But I just had the arrows cut to length, then took them home and glued them up. I started spinning them and checking for wobble before having them cut a year or so into doing my own fletching. Still not putting to much thought into it. About a year ago, one of your foc videos popped up on my feed and I started down the rabbit hole. After watching your videos on arrow building, nock tuning, insert tuning, foc, and so on. I have become hyper focused on building the best arrow I can. Now I have 2 sets of arrows. One a bit under 500 grains and one a bit over 600 grains. I am not 100% on the crazy high foc train but I see the benefit. I dont see anything wrong with having light and heavy arrows a sigh tape for each and using the best arrow for the job. Thanks for the no none sense info presented in an upbeat manor and for the loss of my sanity.
You forgot to comment on tapered shafts noting you can't cut either end. Alaskan Archery sells tapered shafts, which aid in FOC & penetration, as per Dr. Ed...
@troyfowler aka ranch fairy. I just ordered a test kit of yours the apollos and I’m excited. However, the pro shop here when I mention bare shaft tuning they acted like I was a fool and perhaps I am but… they said when I tried to explain your method that it wasn’t just paper it’s mostly but I told them about the hard foam and they said it’ll never tell you accurately because it’ll go in the path of least resistance in the foam layers etc… they stated with my draw length right around 27 1/4” at 60 pounds on my phase 4 a 400 spine with 100 grain field tip is all she wrote period!!! I hate how many biased opinions there are because the science and method behind what you do sounds like it’s a logical method. I’m new this year to archery so sadly I don’t know enough to weed out all the hype marketing statements and rebuttals. Lb Troy doesn’t read this and someone who knows enough on Troys logic could answr why they have a come back for everything!!! Maybe they are in target arrow mode but even then I’d want a bare shaft perfect arrows before fletching 🤦♂️ idk mam any light shed I’d really appreciate it hooooaaa sappers lead the way
One good thing about shooting 26" arrows is i can cut 2" off the back and the rest off the front and get them perfectly straight and all lables facing same direction lol Sorry im kinda ocd when it comes to this, and why i stoped buying easton axis match grades out of 24 only 2 or maybe 3 i was able to take the wobble out completely. Were i can buy almost any other arrow brand even if there .006 straightness i can get the wobble out completely (to the human eye), and thw weights were all over the place. From here on out its sirius and victory arrows only for me. I dont have an issue with the other non easton brands but these are the 2 i prefer personally and havent had any issues with at all so why switch.
😂at 20 minutes “Don’t complain about the results you didn’t get from the work you didn’t do” some cruel yet realistic MUSIC TEACHER had lunch with a couple of Archery 🏹 instructors and came up with a catchy way to say YOU SUCK! You can’t play the tunes for your next gig and you will miss your shot on your next hunt!😂😂😂😂😂 ❤So true!🏹🦌🏹🎸🎼🎹🎷🎸😅😅😅
Ok I figured out how to spent more time building shafts. Instead of spinning broadhead and watching for wobble,find someone with a lathe. Make a true shouldered pin to screw into the insert. Make a bracket off you arrow spinner to hold a dial indicator. Then you can measure true run out.
Thanks for the video. It is super helpful! I am new to building my own arrows. The hardest thing that I am struggling with is knowing what weight of inserts and tips to use with my arrows. I am shooting a 250 spine 30" draw at 70 lbs. Any suggestions?
Get the 200/250 kit of troys on sirrius archery website. Comes with 2-200’s, 2-250’s and all the tips. If you start getting alot of weight upfront with length of 30” plus 1/2” from insert you’ll be in the 200 spine I reckon. The kit is cool because it covers a lot of variety of weights and the shaft selection. I’m waiting for mine to come. I’ve spent a lot of money and wished I would’ve saw his kit video sooner.👍
What's the rule on practicing in extreme temperatures?? Is it okay for me to shoot and practice at 115 degrees and I'm not asking if it's ok for me...... Is it ok for my bow?
Hey Troy, just got some orions for myself and did some nock tuning, surprising I aligned all the nocks with the 250 spine label on the shaft and all shot as perfect as I could expect maybe at most 1 degree off center, was this a fluke or is this a spine alignment mark? Any thought? Thanks!
Taking in all the info🤙 I'm going traditional recurve and longbow and assuming everything is the same when it comes to making and adult arrows and tuning them. Would you recommend just going straight to the 2 BLADE single bevel broad heads? Appreciate the advice 🤙
Yes on broadheads But - see my traditional bare shaft tuning video - and we offer the tuning kits on the Sirius archery ranch fairy store (plus awesome single bevels!) th-cam.com/video/qFx7sZYt7k0/w-d-xo.html
Love the videos. Very helpful. The only trouble I have with building and then bare shaft tuning is nock high 25-30 degree results no matter what I do… I shoot apollo 250 Spine, 100 insert, 250 broadhead, biscuit rest. I’ve changed draw weight in all directions. Any suggestions.
Great videos fine sir. New and learning alot. Where are Apollo arrows manufacturing facilities? I'm wanting American made stuff. Thank you so much for your hard work and dedication to the bowhunting and betterment of humanity. Have a great big ole fun sunshiny God blessed day. Thank you
@@RanchFairy I am trying to decide between the Apollo and Orion test kit with extreme foc point kit. Currently shooting day six 250s with 300 grains in the front. Just looking to try something different.
@@jacobb6313 Apollo then - it’s a mid diameter and trust me - they work - I’ve shot them 4 years and never looked back Plus they are lighter (pretty sure) GPI than the day six “heavy arrow” which is unnecessary- Lighter GPI - adds FREE FOC These siriusarchery.com/product/ranch-fairy-apollo-ez-button/
On your sharpening video you fine polish them so there are no ruff spots to catch and build up meat on blade. What’s the logic behind the broad head you are using in this video. They have big notches on both sides. Thanks
I work my ass off gettin perfect arrow flight for my hunting arrows, and I also go bow fishing with a 1600 grain arrow that doesn't always behave lmao. 2 different worlds
What does it mean when my arrows do a little spiral thru the air? Is it a nock issue or the drop away rest needing adjustment? Pulled the bow out and started shooting it again to start preparing for fall and my arrows were a bit spirally lol.
You talk as if tuning the arrows takes a lot of time. Man, if a hunter won't take an hour or so to tune an arrow, then I question their ability to actually hunt because we all know that patience is one of the key factors of success (unless you're Rut Daniels, but he don't like waitin') 😂 Thanks for spreading the dust, Troy. 🧚♂️
Do you ever worry about broadhead orientation when it’s tight on the arrow? I remember back in the day people lined up 3 blade broadheads with fletchings.
Aerodynamically this is not logical. The "Wind" coming off the broadhead is at least 2 feet from the vanes. That's what I've heard people say the reason they do it. I don't worry about this. what I do is bare shaft, nock tune every single arrow I shoot with the insert and field point mass matching broadheads.
@@RanchFairy thank you for replying. I’ve been binge listening to all your videos at work the past couple days. Everything you say makes sense. I will be ordering a test kit in spring I’m done with the mechanical broadhead crap caused me to loose a buck this fall
Ok, maybe a silly question. But, when it comes to broad heads, what kind of target keeps adult arrows from blowing through the target and still be able to get good info for bh tuning? Thanks
Hey Troy, what roadhead would tou recommend using with a crossbow? I bought my lady one and want her to have the best possible chance of success. If it helps her new crossbow is a Bear Intense. Thanks for any advice you can give.
One piece and resharpenable like 3 blade or 2 blade Magnus stinger Buzzcut 150 Tuffhead ranch fairy 3 blade Or equivalent BUT - look up ranch fairy crossbow tuning On draggin deer you tube channel And make sure bolt flight is consistent. You’ll need these 100-200 grain siriusarchery.com/product/ranch-fairy-field-point-test-kit/
@@RanchFairy I am going to order your field point test kit and go through your tuning methods. I need the kit anyway because I am going to be doing the same with my old bear compound and aluminum arrows. I really hope to get it setup with some heavy single bevels and get hers shooting heavy single bevel as well.
@@RanchFairy Sure that’s a concern. I use hot melt on my EliteArchery inserts with my V Force shafts; and my TUFFHEAD single bevels have remained attached when pulling them from targets and after pass throughs. I screw a large field point into the insert, heat the insert, apply hot melt and push and twist the assembly into the shaft. If I need to tinker with insert weights or find my preferred weight broadhead unavailable I still have options.
You still using feathers for fletching? What’s your thoughts on helical? Or the natural rotation of the arrow 😂, I’ve seen other videos pertaining to this. I’m a lefty….so goofy at birth. Just wondering if it’s hogwash or maybe something to it? Hope your hunt is successful, the blood trail is short, and the ice box fills up!
#1 assumption going into bareshaft tuning is that archer has developed good form and repeatable shot sequence. Lacking those 2 boxes being checked, bareshaft tuning is frustrating.
I agree wholeheartedly. But, you can actually change the arrow bending rate and find arrows that want to behave. I have a playlist. Ordering and arrow tuning. See video 3. Sacrifice no effort for perfect arrow flight.
When I go to order when I'm selecting the inserts I want 100 grain inserts, but the it only let's me select 75-100 grain. may be a stupid question but I'm fairly new to this so bare with me.
I can't even fathom shooting arrows that I don't build. Just watching them fletch arrows up at the local shop.... Cut, inserts in, fletch, done. Nope, not for me. I'll buy arrows there, but I won't even let them cut them lol. And if I'm in a pinch, I'll buy the ready made ones that are way too long and I'll cut them to my length and I'll strip the fletches off.
@@robertdeis132 Go for it. Don’t leave them in the hot Sun Don’t over heat them putting them in or out Don’t put flame on carbon. There’s a few others I forgot
Epoxy and most glue create gases when they cure. Hes absolutely right about the insert pushing out. I coated hundreds of thousands of square feet in all of our food processing facilities over the country for 7 years with epoxy and uethane mortars i have seen gigantic rooms fog out from epoxy curing, probably why i can't have another kid but thats stories for another day ha. But yes epoxy will gas while curing
I honestly can’t understand why people would/will /are so ignorant or lazy to not make the very best arrow they can. It’s plain ass stupid not to do that. Hunters????lol, spend many many $ on everything related to be ready to shoot that one great arrow but in reality are they 100% confident in the arrow ? Building a perfect arrow is like handloading your rifle ammo to achieve the best performance for that rifle.
You and me bro - snook this weekend Tarpon 10 days later Then shhhhhh - snook in July! Shhhhhhhhhh - wyoming trout in September……… There’s ditch pickles in the local lakes so there is that
Cool, I'm picking kings and sockeye out of gillnets now 3 days a week commercial king salmon trolling the one day openings too. You can check that out on my TH-cam channel. I'm gathering some footage on the net tomorrow
Mate, thanks for spelling out the correct way to make accurate arrows.
It makes perfect sense.
Thank you.
Steve R
Troy it may be hard to see, but you are making a positive impact to myself and others. Keep up the good work!
Another benefit of bare shaft tuning is it really helps you concentrate on your form. Any imperfection in your form will be obvious with a bare shaft (especially through paper), but fletching can hide a lot of issues.
This process has changed my life lol.. I've been building arrows now for 3 maybe 4 years.. and thanks to the fairy I have the best flying arrows to my ability.. I love to build them, I enjoy the process. I had a really bad case of target panic and now I'm finally getting over that thanks to Joel turner. So now that I know how you shoot haha and I have perfect arrow flight and my bow is turned.... it's crazy how great I'm shooting. Troy you've been a big part of that brother and I appreciate the videos.
There is a saying...."Each one, teach one". Troy, you have taken that saying and blown it out of the water! Keep doing BIG things!!
Don't lose your steam You've done amazing job so far
If you use lighted nocks, SIGHT IN with lighted nocks and broadheads. Even with well tuned arrow setups, broadheads can fly different than field points, sometimes several inches. I always clock broadheads (orient them the same for each arrow) to mimic the same arrow dynamics. If broadhead hits 2 inches to the left of field point, orienting them will make all of them hit very close to that, and then of course just sight in for the broadhead. I sight in for a number one arrow, and that will be the first arrow to be shot at game. Good luck on your trip.
No doubt, I know what it takes. Took ten years off hunting, got back into it. Hunted with a crossbow and still getting the bow hunting straight. Two years of compound prep and practice after 10 years off. 10 years ago I shot my bow nearly every day and until I'm that good and proficient again I will not release another arrow at a deer. Crossbow was a great tool to get back into hunting but even with that I prepped countless hours before hunting with it. If you can't respect that hunting takes hard work and preparation you should not be hunting.
Just another very good video with everything that you need to know about tuning your arrows.
Last year I decided to compound bow hunt for the first time. After much trial and error I had a decent set-up and arrows made in the bulls eye. However my arrow fight was not straight, I kept messing around and I got it ok but not right on. Then I came across your channel and started learning about your idea and what are the critical factors of an excellent arrow and bow configuration. So after watching the arrow set-up videos using the Ranch Fairy test kit, I really wanted to try it. BUT I still hesitated until I saw the kid with the 50lb bow, who took down a deer and you called him a unicorn (which was hilarious). I shoot a 55lb youth bow due to my shoulder and a 26.75 draw. SO I really needed the FOC arrows and I broke down and bought a kit. I tested them, got really good results with the 300 spine and 200 grain tips. My hunting arrows came today and they fly so straight and hit so close to each other they looked like they were mating, not once, not twice but three times in a row. That's never happened before. SO thank you for your videos, glad I could put some gas money in your pocket, Hopefully I will have a few pictures of dead deer in the fall.
Thanks for the business and send me critter pictures this fall - Troy@ranchfairy.com
I just did 2 dozen arrows. One tip I learned form Dan McCarthy was to flex the arrows in a bow press put to points in each side of the shaft. find where the arrow wants to flex and which way. then put them all the same way they flex. I shot them all through paper and maybe had 3 or 4 that were off and the nock had to be touched. Saved so much time when I went to shoot them all though paper.
Just sent the email thanks and now new content. Awesome. Listen up folks, it just works. Did a little tinkering (limb driven rest anchor point was a GAME CHANGER) and my bow eats everything the Apollo test kit threw at it! Stoked for fall!
Very nicely done. You kept it simple, even though you're covering some very complex factors.
I always enjoy your videos thanks for educating the bowhunting public. Something that I think bareshaft tuners through paper should consider is a consistent tear. I have seen friends spend hours nock tuning and going crazy. If they cannot get a consistent tear with the same arrow , I have found that it's a form issue and you will go dingy trying to figure it out. I have never seen this discussed on any of the forums and I believe it is very important to have a consistent tear before you start nock tuning. Keep up the good work.
John Krieg
thanks for the video. I would not have thought about cleaning out the tube after cutting, before inserting insert. Amazing how much crud you got out of there!
I did this on both sets of arrows from Sirius. It is AMAZING
Love your content! As a new archer I am soaking this all up! Thank you
Holler at me anytime with questions
I’m pumped up for the THP hog hunt. It has to be coming soon! Great work Troy. Thanks for the content.
Yep it takes time but is totally worth it.
I bare shaft paper tune, seems to help me, but make sure the paper is taught and frame its on is structurally sound and cant move. Drove me crazy trying to paper tune when I hung the paper on a ladder golf game. The pvc ladder golf frame would flex and give false tears in paper. Knock tunning really is black magic. Thanks Troy for all the info. Im shooting Black Eagle Carnivore’s at 655 grains total arrow weight with Kudu Contour two blade single bevel. Goes through em like butter.
Listen to him about paper being fixed!!
Just in time to remind me to do it right.... Thinking probably should recheck the ones I was using last year since I didn't do the complete process. Love the channel, so happy you are doing these.
Thanks for this video Troy!
Just ordered 6 apollos and 150 tuffhead evolutions to walk through this process myself.
I did the “easy button” last summer. I had complete pass through on each deer I killed last fall using nearly the same setup as I’m trying this year. The tuffhead evolutions are awesome!
Great Stuff man!! I love seeing a notification from RF cause I know it will be worth watching and soaking up the knowledge
Thank you for the thoughtful content and encouraging others to put in the necessary time to produce accurate hunting arrows. I tend to conduct my broadhead shooting later in the season after my muscles and form comes into peak level. Good luck on your hunt.
If you’re the type of archer nerding out on arrow building then do yourself a huge favor and get the RAM arrow tool. Besides doing spine indexing, you can check the ends and not have to rely on your calibrated eye by spinning. Pro tip: if after cutting you find you still have a straighter end, that end gets the nock.
After bowhunting over 50 years, I have found the straightest and tightest arrow shafts I have ever shot. I purchased a dozen Arrowtech shafts from a company called Arrowtech Archery. These shafts group tighter than any shafts I have ever shot. I believe you mostly could get a free dozen from this company to test. I would really like to hear your review.
Way back when…I used hot melt on Easton xx75s. Now I use cool flex glue and an old field point. Heat the field point while installed in the insert and you can move it around. Then dip it in cool water to set the glue. The bonus is that you can repeat the process to remove the insert later for tuning or changing inserts etc. I let the excess setup and then just peel it off with my thumbnail.
Thanks for what you are doing. More people need to pay attention to arrow weight, foc and tuning vs which new bow to buy this year. Too many hunting shows showing bad form and shot placement while just hyping the latest and greatest gear nobody needs. I digress…
Dude you put it the best information. Just do what you do and let them haters chatter.
Awesome as always troy. My setups still dialed as ever. Changed accuracy for me!
Great work here, don't stop!
This is the same process I follow, it simply works!!
I commented several videos back about being Native American and how our ancestor’ arrows were heavy and EFOC, I just weighed one of the deer hunting flint arrow heads I got from my grandfather. He was full blooded Cree/Blackfoot. It weighs 683 gr, with a chunk missing! So I’m sure it was 700-750gr before it went through the deer! The heads made of churt are even heavier! Just thought you would find that interesting. Especially since the shafts where made from light shit. Like reed, cedar or even mullen shoots and many bows were 40-50lb draw weight. Back to basics and relearning forgotten and lost knowledge!
That - is a fact!!
Getting perfect arrow flight takes time, but not as much as trying to find a critter that you hit poorly because your arrows sucked. I do pretty much what you do except for the arrow spinner thingy. I don't have one so I still do the stand them on a broadhead and give them a spin deal. Same result. It is amazing to watch a perfectly tuned arrow zip through a deer. Ashby's work was directed toward arrow penetration, as you know. Perfect flight plays a HUGE role in achieving maximum penetration.
When you are old and have arthritic shoulders like me, you need all the help you can get. Low bow poundage doesn't have to equal low penetration. Listen to the Fairy. He will help you get it done!
When I was younger in my teens I was shooting a bear recurve with wooden arrows with glued on broadheads all store bought so I'm getting ready to buy the stuff I need to make my own arrows. The info you give us makes sense if ya don't do the work you won't know the difference
I appreciate all the info and knowledge you share with us. Sincerely, SPONGE
I take a lot of what you say and add it to what I do building Arrows, and it has helped me tremendously, thank you ... 😎🏹🦌
Thanks man for the info ill be getting the arrow test kit soon I am sure I'll have questions for you thanks
The shirt is awesome
Love the chanel great info I struggled a bit when first did bow wasn't right I'm new to archery it was difficult but now I got it all dialed in my next set be a lot easier I'm thinking cause now I know a lot of trial and error first time doing this
Tip: if your eyesight isn't great and you want to know if the insert is straight before It sets, just put the pointy end of the broadhead against your finger (lightly touching) when you spin it - you'll feel even a minute imbalance.
I’m 2 years into building adult arrows. Lots of head aches really. $89 broadhead 3 packs and then finding out they just won’t fly….. I believe for us hunter on a budget, this is the most important information. Building Pefect arrow flight with out the big cost of broad heads. I’m going to shot the magnus bee stinger 150grain.
Cant wait to see the colab with thp. You should have dan infalt come down too. Thanks for the content troy i love learning stuff from you
Good stuff I just started to fletch myself own arrows. But I built some the lazy way. I would like to put those to the side and do the inset and nock tunes bare shaft shoot thing and see if they shoot better than that batch that I just threw together. Good stuff 👍🏻
First year I went through the entire process and I'm never looking back. Group sizes are a fraction of what I use to shoot. I don't even shoot for groups anymore because I am constantly wrecking my vanes.
There we go
That visor is nice😎
hey i recognize that s cut in the scapula!!! haha. yeah buddy!!! 2 holes are better then 1!!
Definitely a great reminder for us all. I really need to and want to build my own arrows this year after using factory for so long.
My cousin who has the same draw length as I do let me borrow a couple different arrows that he built. I pretty much was stacking them on each other at the 3 o clock position right on the edge of the bullseye 🎯 vs my factory arrows which had more spread. Needless to say I was impressed.
Side note I caught my first shark 🦈 last month in SC with my Marine officer brother. Caught a 3 ft bonnet head on a chunk of squid 🦑. He made pretty tasty 😋 shark 🦈 tacos 🌮
Excellent on the arrows
And Sharks are super cool
@@RanchFairy thank you 🙏 they’re about an inch too short for the broadheads that I want to use. Going to 300 from 350 and a hand built tuned arrow obviously made a difference, which I knew from years of watching your videos.
Yes sharks 🦈 are cool 😎 and I definitely want to go after them again. The tug is the drug.
I watch all these other arrow tuning videos and guys are doing all sorts of adjustments to make their bare shaft group with their fletched shaft through paper and on target and then other guys are cutting arrows down bit by bit and adding point weight and all sorts of complicated stuff. I really am glad I found your videos because it seems like your simplified process is getting the same results as the other guys who are doing all sorts of crazy stuff that seems overly complicated to me.
Yeah, I tried to make it easier. Worst of all is the the great bow "tuning" lie. Which is super super complicated and requires a cauldron of dragon stew or a pro shop shaman on a certain moon phase, blood sacrifices, a seance isn't out of the question, etc.
They can never, never, ever explain
why
what they did,
did
what it did.
So I split my trad background with some basic facts and poof. Test kit.
You are an evil man. I tend to hyper focus on things and tinker. I have been shooting bows for close to 10 years. Hunting using a bow on and off over that 10 years. I never got this in-depth with arrow builds before. I have fletched my own arrows for almost the same length of time. But I just had the arrows cut to length, then took them home and glued them up. I started spinning them and checking for wobble before having them cut a year or so into doing my own fletching. Still not putting to much thought into it.
About a year ago, one of your foc videos popped up on my feed and I started down the rabbit hole. After watching your videos on arrow building, nock tuning, insert tuning, foc, and so on. I have become hyper focused on building the best arrow I can. Now I have 2 sets of arrows. One a bit under 500 grains and one a bit over 600 grains. I am not 100% on the crazy high foc train but I see the benefit. I dont see anything wrong with having light and heavy arrows a sigh tape for each and using the best arrow for the job.
Thanks for the no none sense info presented in an upbeat manor and for the loss of my sanity.
You forgot to comment on tapered shafts noting you can't cut either end. Alaskan Archery sells tapered shafts, which aid in FOC & penetration, as per Dr. Ed...
Good vid Ranch.
Good stuff!
Should I nock tune with tradstars for selfbow recurve
My uncle makes those Custom Corky Lures. Lol
@troyfowler aka ranch fairy. I just ordered a test kit of yours the apollos and I’m excited. However, the pro shop here when I mention bare shaft tuning they acted like I was a fool and perhaps I am but… they said when I tried to explain your method that it wasn’t just paper it’s mostly but I told them about the hard foam and they said it’ll never tell you accurately because it’ll go in the path of least resistance in the foam layers etc… they stated with my draw length right around 27 1/4” at 60 pounds on my phase 4 a 400 spine with 100 grain field tip is all she wrote period!!! I hate how many biased opinions there are because the science and method behind what you do sounds like it’s a logical method. I’m new this year to archery so sadly I don’t know enough to weed out all the hype marketing statements and rebuttals. Lb Troy doesn’t read this and someone who knows enough on Troys logic could answr why they have a come back for everything!!! Maybe they are in target arrow mode but even then I’d want a bare shaft perfect arrows before fletching 🤦♂️ idk mam any light shed I’d really appreciate it
hooooaaa sappers lead the way
One good thing about shooting 26" arrows is i can cut 2" off the back and the rest off the front and get them perfectly straight and all lables facing same direction lol
Sorry im kinda ocd when it comes to this, and why i stoped buying easton axis match grades out of 24 only 2 or maybe 3 i was able to take the wobble out completely. Were i can buy almost any other arrow brand even if there .006 straightness i can get the wobble out completely (to the human eye), and thw weights were all over the place. From here on out its sirius and victory arrows only for me. I dont have an issue with the other non easton brands but these are the 2 i prefer personally and havent had any issues with at all so why switch.
10:43; doesn't the inserts have a small hole in the bottom of them to prevent this?
Depends on the insert. Easton HIT brass inserts do not, while the Easton HIT aluminum inserts do.
😂at 20 minutes “Don’t complain about the results you didn’t get from the work you didn’t do” some cruel yet realistic MUSIC TEACHER had lunch with a couple of Archery 🏹 instructors and came up with a catchy way to say YOU SUCK! You can’t play the tunes for your next gig and you will miss your shot on your next hunt!😂😂😂😂😂 ❤So true!🏹🦌🏹🎸🎼🎹🎷🎸😅😅😅
B12 chem tool will fix that label issue real quick..
Have you experimented with indexing 2 blade , single bevel broad heads ?
Three hours tuning arrows....how much time is saved blood trailing by hitting where you're aiming?
Ok I figured out how to spent more time building shafts. Instead of spinning broadhead and watching for wobble,find someone with a lathe. Make a true shouldered pin to screw into the insert. Make a bracket off you arrow spinner to hold a dial indicator. Then you can measure true run out.
I wish there was a way to index broadheads, but there ain't. I do get lucky sometimes though
will that be the same for crassbow bouts
I know you said no but I can't resist leaving this stupid comment lol,great videos for the kids
Thanks for the video. It is super helpful! I am new to building my own arrows. The hardest thing that I am struggling with is knowing what weight of inserts and tips to use with my arrows. I am shooting a 250 spine 30" draw at 70 lbs. Any suggestions?
100 and 125 or 150 is the old reliable!!
Easy to get broadheads
Magnus has both!!!!
@@RanchFairy thank you!
Get the 200/250 kit of troys on sirrius archery website. Comes with 2-200’s, 2-250’s and all the tips. If you start getting alot of weight upfront with length of 30” plus 1/2” from insert you’ll be in the 200 spine I reckon. The kit is cool because it covers a lot of variety of weights and the shaft selection. I’m waiting for mine to come. I’ve spent a lot of money and wished I would’ve saw his kit video sooner.👍
Where'd you find that "Live, Laugh, Love" t-shirt? I need one.
What's the rule on practicing in extreme temperatures?? Is it okay for me to shoot and practice at 115 degrees and I'm not asking if it's ok for me...... Is it ok for my bow?
Hey Troy, just got some orions for myself and did some nock tuning, surprising I aligned all the nocks with the 250 spine label on the shaft and all shot as perfect as I could expect maybe at most 1 degree off center, was this a fluke or is this a spine alignment mark? Any thought? Thanks!
Taking in all the info🤙 I'm going traditional recurve and longbow and assuming everything is the same when it comes to making and adult arrows and tuning them. Would you recommend just going straight to the 2 BLADE single bevel broad heads? Appreciate the advice 🤙
Yes on broadheads
But - see my traditional bare shaft tuning video - and we offer the tuning kits on the Sirius archery ranch fairy store (plus awesome single bevels!)
th-cam.com/video/qFx7sZYt7k0/w-d-xo.html
Love the videos. Very helpful. The only trouble I have with building and then bare shaft tuning is nock high 25-30 degree results no matter what I do… I shoot apollo 250 Spine, 100 insert, 250 broadhead, biscuit rest. I’ve changed draw weight in all directions. Any suggestions.
Rest is sagging. They don’t handle the mass very well.
Would you recommend switching to a drop away?
Great videos fine sir. New and learning alot. Where are Apollo arrows manufacturing facilities? I'm wanting American made stuff. Thank you so much for your hard work and dedication to the bowhunting and betterment of humanity. Have a great big ole fun sunshiny God blessed day. Thank you
Not in America and be careful with the companies who “say so” as well.
i hate when my target moves around while im bare-shafting....giggity
Would the Orion meet the Ashby structural integrity?
Why shoot a micro? Hahaha
650 grains and FOC over 20% and adult broadhead SHARP and perfect arrow flight is the arrow that wins
@@RanchFairy I am trying to decide between the Apollo and Orion test kit with extreme foc point kit. Currently shooting day six 250s with 300 grains in the front. Just looking to try something different.
@@jacobb6313
Apollo then - it’s a mid diameter and trust me - they work - I’ve shot them 4 years and never looked back
Plus they are lighter (pretty sure) GPI than the day six “heavy arrow” which is unnecessary-
Lighter GPI - adds FREE FOC
These
siriusarchery.com/product/ranch-fairy-apollo-ez-button/
On your sharpening video you fine polish them so there are no ruff spots to catch and build up meat on blade. What’s the logic behind the broad head you are using in this video. They have big notches on both sides. Thanks
Always testing concepts
And that one has sharp rounded interruptions - exploring increased internal damage
And smooth sharp
I work my ass off gettin perfect arrow flight for my hunting arrows, and I also go bow fishing with a 1600 grain arrow that doesn't always behave lmao. 2 different worlds
What does it mean when my arrows do a little spiral thru the air? Is it a nock issue or the drop away rest needing adjustment? Pulled the bow out and started shooting it again to start preparing for fall and my arrows were a bit spirally lol.
We assume they were fine before?
Or you never noticed it ?
Email me your total setup - Troy@ranchfairy.com
You talk as if tuning the arrows takes a lot of time. Man, if a hunter won't take an hour or so to tune an arrow, then I question their ability to actually hunt because we all know that patience is one of the key factors of success (unless you're Rut Daniels, but he don't like waitin') 😂
Thanks for spreading the dust, Troy. 🧚♂️
Do you ever worry about broadhead orientation when it’s tight on the arrow? I remember back in the day people lined up 3 blade broadheads with fletchings.
Aerodynamically this is not logical. The "Wind" coming off the broadhead is at least 2 feet from the vanes. That's what I've heard people say the reason they do it.
I don't worry about this.
what I do is bare shaft, nock tune every single arrow I shoot with the insert and field point mass matching broadheads.
@@RanchFairy thank you for replying. I’ve been binge listening to all your videos at work the past couple days. Everything you say makes sense. I will be ordering a test kit in spring I’m done with the mechanical broadhead crap caused me to loose a buck this fall
@@16912outdoors Don't tell the mechanical guys. They say it's 100%.
troy@ranchfairy.com. Holler anytime.
Are they dollar store, buy them by the three pack “readers”? I think I have it 10 pairs laying around the house. LOL
Who cares where the label is unless your arrow is straight and flying spot on that’s all that matters
Ok, maybe a silly question. But, when it comes to broad heads, what kind of target keeps adult arrows from blowing through the target and still be able to get good info for bh tuning? Thanks
Hey Troy, what roadhead would tou recommend using with a crossbow? I bought my lady one and want her to have the best possible chance of success. If it helps her new crossbow is a Bear Intense. Thanks for any advice you can give.
One piece and resharpenable like
3 blade or 2 blade
Magnus stinger Buzzcut 150
Tuffhead ranch fairy 3 blade
Or equivalent
BUT - look up ranch fairy crossbow tuning
On draggin deer you tube channel And make sure bolt flight is consistent.
You’ll need these 100-200 grain
siriusarchery.com/product/ranch-fairy-field-point-test-kit/
@@RanchFairy awesome thanks. I was hoping you would say I could use something you already promote. Thank you for all that you are doing.
@@ncsaddlehunter77
Thank you. I’d honestly shoot the thing with 125 / 150 and 200 grain field points and see what groups best
@@RanchFairy I am going to order your field point test kit and go through your tuning methods. I need the kit anyway because I am going to be doing the same with my old bear compound and aluminum arrows. I really hope to get it setup with some heavy single bevels and get hers shooting heavy single bevel as well.
@@ncsaddlehunter77 heck yeah
Whatever shoots best in the x bow
Buy that weight
125 / 150 and 200 grain are easiest
Troy, do you think nock tuning is aligning the spine?
Thought maybe y’all would use a candle 🕯 or alcohol burner 🔥 and Hot Melt to install your inserts.
If you want to melt carbon - sure
@@RanchFairy Sure that’s a concern. I use hot melt on my EliteArchery inserts with my V Force shafts; and my TUFFHEAD single bevels have remained attached when pulling them from targets and after pass throughs. I screw a large field point into the insert, heat the insert, apply hot melt and push and twist the assembly into the shaft. If I need to tinker with insert weights or find my preferred weight broadhead unavailable I still have options.
You still using feathers for fletching? What’s your thoughts on helical? Or the natural rotation of the arrow 😂, I’ve seen other videos pertaining to this. I’m a lefty….so goofy at birth. Just wondering if it’s hogwash or maybe something to it? Hope your hunt is successful, the blood trail is short, and the ice box fills up!
What’s your opinion/thoughts on the zinger 2.0 fletchings?
They work - but if you don’t bare shaft and nock tune
Then they work only as good as the effort you put in
If it bugs me that much I rub the label off with acetone.
#1 assumption going into bareshaft tuning is that archer has developed good form and repeatable shot sequence. Lacking those 2 boxes being checked, bareshaft tuning is frustrating.
I agree wholeheartedly. But, you can actually change the arrow bending rate and find arrows that want to behave. I have a playlist. Ordering and arrow tuning. See video 3. Sacrifice no effort for perfect arrow flight.
is there a certain way you fletch them?
When I go to order when I'm selecting the inserts I want 100 grain inserts, but the it only let's me select 75-100 grain. may be a stupid question but I'm fairly new to this so bare with me.
They will be 100 grains -
They can be adjusted but virtually no one does that. Why cut the nuts off? Ahhahaha
@@RanchFairy ahhh got ya thanks for clearing that up for me. And replying! We all appreciate you man.
I can't even fathom shooting arrows that I don't build.
Just watching them fletch arrows up at the local shop.... Cut, inserts in, fletch, done. Nope, not for me. I'll buy arrows there, but I won't even let them cut them lol. And if I'm in a pinch, I'll buy the ready made ones that are way too long and I'll cut them to my length and I'll strip the fletches off.
I am in this process now. Wanting to pull my hair out 😂.
Thoughts on hot melt?
No is my thought
@@RanchFairy why? I’m interested in hot melt because I’ve seen you can make adjustments.
@@robertdeis132
Go for it. Don’t leave them in the hot Sun
Don’t over heat them putting them in or out
Don’t put flame on carbon.
There’s a few others I forgot
Epoxy and most glue create gases when they cure. Hes absolutely right about the insert pushing out. I coated hundreds of thousands of square feet in all of our food processing facilities over the country for 7 years with epoxy and uethane mortars i have seen gigantic rooms fog out from epoxy curing, probably why i can't have another kid but thats stories for another day ha. But yes epoxy will gas while curing
I honestly can’t understand why people would/will /are so ignorant or lazy to not make the very best arrow they can. It’s plain ass stupid not to do that. Hunters????lol, spend many many $ on everything related to be ready to shoot that one great arrow but in reality are they 100% confident in the arrow ? Building a perfect arrow is like handloading your rifle ammo to achieve the best performance for that rifle.
Maybe I should get ready 🤔...? Nah I'm just going to keep fishing
You and me bro - snook this weekend
Tarpon 10 days later
Then shhhhhh - snook in July!
Shhhhhhhhhh - wyoming trout in September………
There’s ditch pickles in the local lakes so there is that
Cool, I'm picking kings and sockeye out of gillnets now 3 days a week commercial king salmon trolling the one day openings too. You can check that out on my TH-cam channel. I'm gathering some footage on the net tomorrow
🤣 Live Laugh Love 💕
Loved you need better friends!
OCLD - Obsessive compulsive label disorder
I mean, if the label really bothers you that much, get some acetone dummy 😂 it’ll come right off