Just want to say thank you. Most of what I have learned about boat building, repairs, glassing and gel coating, I learned from you. Also about products to use. Enjoy your week off with your family.
I don't think I have ever heard better background music as what you used for the test fit. Good selection. Happy birthday to your daughter and enjoy the party.
Thanks for showing the possibilities of the different cloth. You said you will be grinding soon and I started getting itchy. Happy birthday to your daughter!
Thank you I had the same project going on with my boat and just got her all set and done. I didn’t get pictures or videos because once o found what I was going for I just kept going. Happy birthday
Thank you for this great tutorial. As always you put out great info. Not exactly sure what I'm going to get into when I open up my boat, An 1980 Ebbtide tri V 160. A 16' bassboat. Previous owner punched a hole on the deck for a seat support but failed to put the base in, then in there infanete wisdom left the boat uncovered in the elements for a couple years. Transom needs attention too. So, till I get in a situation I have a place Ican work on it, I have the knowledge to do the repair. The boat currently is in a storage unit. This will be a cap off restoration fix. Since this company is non-existent anymore, any info I could have gleaned I haven't been able to find much of. I did read somewhere before going out of business, they were using all composite materials for stringers and transoms. Don't know when they started, so, I'M EXPECTING TO FIND rotten wood under layed glass and water soaked foam. Thank you again for some very informative tutorials. And HAPPY BELATED BIRTHDAY TO YOUR DAUGHTER!!!!
Great video! We’re doing transom work, as well, and are trying to absorb as much information as we can. Thanks! (And happy birthday to your daughter. 😎🎂💕)
Great solution! I also had a gap when attaching additional stringers to newly build bracket (see part 4 on my channel) but struggled a lot without a proper backing. This solution had been better. Thanks for great videos and a have great week off!
Looking great that Andy. Good idea using the spring in the glass to press out and fill the gap. 👌 Happy 13th birthday to ya daughter for the 20th 🎉🥳🎉🥳 they grow up so fast.
Hi Andy. Genius work with flexible fiberglass. Could have possibly made a coosa plug, of course yours is a better solution. Have a great week. Cheers 😊
That worked out great how it fit right in there. Now as for your daughter, just wait for the day when she says, "keys to the car please!" Or better yet, "Dad this is my boyfriend!" Isn't it great being a father?
Andy - seriously, dude - peel ply. If you peel plied the 1708 layup, you would be ready to bond without removing the piece. Also - grab a copy of Rutan's moldless composite homebuilt aircraft construction guide. It's a perfect toolkit for one-off glass work like the stringer lengthening. You could have hot glued some foam pieces in, shaped, slathered it with a bit of your selected plastic, and laid on the glass. The Gougeon Bros book has good info as well.
Don't forget you still need to install a drain to the other side of the stringer. Water will get back there even if it's not supposed to and will need a way to get out.
Thanks for the 12mm ...lol, Now we would like the Oz to Grams conversion. 1708 (600grams?) also has a Chop strand backing on it. and not available here in aust
hi i love your videos i have a question how can you find out if a boats stringers were hollow from the factory or if the wood was rotted out completely and all traces are gone . it may sound like a foolish question but i am looking at a fiberglass gillnetter by robert with no wood in the fore stringers and im stumpted
Looks good. Are you making or extending the stringers vertical so they support the transom higher up? Feel like that’s something I’ve seen on other conversion. Something about the extra rotational force outboards put on the transom over a sterndrive.
Are you going to glue (peanut butter) that form in place inside the existing stringer before you glass it in place? Do you think you need layers of 1708 OVER the seam extending back towards the bow? If so, how many and how far? I am surprised you have not opened the floor/deck back a few feet towards the bow for easier access. Keep up the good work.
I am about to convert an old mako i/o to a bracket and outboard. I have the same bump out at the transom as the Bertram. At the risk of failure vs. cost of a custom aluminum bracket, what are your thoughts on fiberglass brackets? I know there are thousands of boats with euro transoms; but as far as building one from, say coosa and 1708 to bolt on vs. building it into the hull itself and tying it into the hull and stringers. What would be the sounder option?
Nothing wrong with that method, it's pretty hard to replicate original layups. The original likely was all tied into the transom. I probably would have slipped an end cap on that form, then the first three layers over the stringer folded down over the end (lapped inwards) then slide the form forward so it butts up with the transom, then layer outward on to the transom as your building. I would think that for every three layers, you'd want 3in overlap on the existing stringer. So if it's 9 layers thick you'd have chased it back 9in with three steps. After the stringers are tied back to the transom, I'd throw two layers of 12in wide tabbing back over those stringers all along the back of the transom. That may mean a few layers to build up thickness in-between. That will distribute any load over a greater area, rather than just relying on the stringer to transom butt joint. Can't say I've done a job like that though, so I'm just trying to think it out.
@@boatworkstoday not a bad idea, but it's no quicker. Using a closed cell foam (PU), normally anything marine wouldn't soak up water, fuel. If you had water in there I think you have bigger problems.
Just want to say thank you. Most of what I have learned about boat building, repairs, glassing and gel coating, I learned from you. Also about products to use. Enjoy your week off with your family.
I don't think I have ever heard better background music as what you used for the test fit. Good selection. Happy birthday to your daughter and enjoy the party.
Great demo of adaptability/ flexibility of various types of impregnated cloth. Kudos to you.for bringing us along.
This is really looking great now. Looking forward to seeing it splash!
Your vids & style are both ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC !!!!!! PLEASE DO NOT STOP !!!!!!!
Nicely done Andy and big happy birthday to your daughter 👍😁❤️
Thanks for showing the possibilities of the different cloth. You said you will be grinding soon and I started getting itchy. Happy birthday to your daughter!
That is a great tip! 👍
Thank you I had the same project going on with my boat and just got her all set and done. I didn’t get pictures or videos because once o found what I was going for I just kept going. Happy birthday
Awesome video I liked how you tried everything out first . Always enjoy the family because when that little girl grows up and moves away well you know
Thank you for this great tutorial. As always you put out great info. Not exactly sure what I'm going to get into when I open up my boat, An 1980 Ebbtide tri V 160. A 16' bassboat. Previous owner punched a hole on the deck for a seat support but failed to put the base in, then in there infanete wisdom left the boat uncovered in the elements for a couple years. Transom needs attention too. So, till I get in a situation I have a place Ican work on it, I have the knowledge to do the repair. The boat currently is in a storage unit. This will be a cap off restoration fix. Since this company is non-existent anymore, any info I could have gleaned I haven't been able to find much of. I did read somewhere before going out of business, they were using all composite materials for stringers and transoms. Don't know when they started, so, I'M EXPECTING TO FIND rotten wood under layed glass and water soaked foam. Thank you again for some very informative tutorials. And HAPPY BELATED BIRTHDAY TO YOUR DAUGHTER!!!!
Happy Birthday to your daughter!
Great video! We’re doing transom work, as well, and are trying to absorb as much information as we can. Thanks! (And happy birthday to your daughter. 😎🎂💕)
Happy to see some boatwork again! looking out for the next video😊
Noob here, I didn’t realize stringers were hollow. Excited to see the process. Not much room for a hand/tool on the outboard side.
Great solution! I also had a gap when attaching additional stringers to newly build bracket (see part 4 on my channel) but struggled a lot without a proper backing. This solution had been better. Thanks for great videos and a have great week off!
I have the same birthday! Happy Birthday!
great solution! Happy Birthday!
Super helpful! Thanks for another informative episode!
Andy you could also fill the void with some spray in foam for a little extra rigidity when laying up the glass
Nice... I would have used expandable urathane foam in place as a male mold and shaped it. But your solution was good.
Looking great that Andy. Good idea using the spring in the glass to press out and fill the gap. 👌
Happy 13th birthday to ya daughter for the 20th 🎉🥳🎉🥳 they grow up so fast.
Hi Andy. Genius work with flexible fiberglass. Could have possibly made a coosa plug, of course yours is a better solution. Have a great week. Cheers 😊
That worked out great how it fit right in there. Now as for your daughter, just wait for the day when she says, "keys to the car please!" Or better yet, "Dad this is my boyfriend!" Isn't it great being a father?
13, teenager, great young lady 😊🎉.
You can measure your own age by the age of the children. Zak and the kids are grown!
Happy birthday to your daughter! You could have poured that connection, take a look at Kaufman, K-pro epoxy products.
Andy - seriously, dude - peel ply. If you peel plied the 1708 layup, you would be ready to bond without removing the piece. Also - grab a copy of Rutan's moldless composite homebuilt aircraft construction guide. It's a perfect toolkit for one-off glass work like the stringer lengthening. You could have hot glued some foam pieces in, shaped, slathered it with a bit of your selected plastic, and laid on the glass. The Gougeon Bros book has good info as well.
Do you have a video about using Saran Wrap or plastic to wrap tight corners? That’s what I’m thinking about trying
Don't forget you still need to install a drain to the other side of the stringer. Water will get back there even if it's not supposed to and will need a way to get out.
Neat!
😃👍👏👏👏
Thanks for the 12mm ...lol, Now we would like the Oz to Grams conversion. 1708 (600grams?) also has a Chop strand backing on it. and not available here in aust
Bloody hard for us Aussies to work out the metric to banana conversion
hi i love your videos i have a question how can you find out if a boats stringers were hollow from the factory or if the wood was rotted out completely and all traces are gone . it may sound like a foolish question but i am looking at a fiberglass gillnetter by robert with no wood in the fore stringers and im stumpted
How would you get to the floor under a casting deck in a old fiberglass bass boat to be able to fix it
Hollow stringers, on a vintage Bertram?
Once that extension is bonded in place you can fill the void with an expandable epoxy like Inject a deck. It doesn't absorb moisture.
Looks good. Are you making or extending the stringers vertical so they support the transom higher up? Feel like that’s something I’ve seen on other conversion. Something about the extra rotational force outboards put on the transom over a sterndrive.
Are you going to glue (peanut butter) that form in place inside the existing stringer before you glass it in place? Do you think you need layers of 1708 OVER the seam extending back towards the bow? If so, how many and how far? I am surprised you have not opened the floor/deck back a few feet towards the bow for easier access. Keep up the good work.
I am about to convert an old mako i/o to a bracket and outboard. I have the same bump out at the transom as the Bertram. At the risk of failure vs. cost of a custom aluminum bracket, what are your thoughts on fiberglass brackets? I know there are thousands of boats with euro transoms; but as far as building one from, say coosa and 1708 to bolt on vs. building it into the hull itself and tying it into the hull and stringers. What would be the sounder option?
Nothing wrong with that method, it's pretty hard to replicate original layups. The original likely was all tied into the transom.
I probably would have slipped an end cap on that form, then the first three layers over the stringer folded down over the end (lapped inwards) then slide the form forward so it butts up with the transom, then layer outward on to the transom as your building.
I would think that for every three layers, you'd want 3in overlap on the existing stringer. So if it's 9 layers thick you'd have chased it back 9in with three steps.
After the stringers are tied back to the transom, I'd throw two layers of 12in wide tabbing back over those stringers all along the back of the transom. That may mean a few layers to build up thickness in-between. That will distribute any load over a greater area, rather than just relying on the stringer to transom butt joint.
Can't say I've done a job like that though, so I'm just trying to think it out.
Couldn't you use that short piece as a angle pattern and that would get your angle side closer ?
12 mm for the metric folks ❤️
That seems like an awful lot of work just to make a mold. Why not just use a block of foam and carve it to shape?
The block would have to be left in place to build off of and I didn't want to have something there that could soak up water :-/
@@boatworkstoday hmm, just read this after I left my comment above
@@boatworkstoday rockwool doesn’t soak up any water and could be used. It’s also nonflammable you can’t burn it with a torch
Thought the same things , boat works today doesn't have money or time schedule to adhere to hehehe
@@boatworkstoday not a bad idea, but it's no quicker. Using a closed cell foam (PU), normally anything marine wouldn't soak up water, fuel. If you had water in there I think you have bigger problems.
Why not cut out a 16 inch section of the flat side and make make a section the exact size of the inside and then cap it with the cut out.
Question, Is BoatworksToday a business or a hobby?
Thumbs DOWN, due to follow up video never happening.