BEST WAY TO CLEAN YOUR FIN ROLLER AFTER FIBERGLASS WORK??
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Having to clean these things is typically the main reason why I'll go out of my way to avoid even using them. Obviously if there's no getting out of it, then the fin roller is what I grab for. It's not difficult at all, but come the end of the day when you're wiped out it's an easy thing to 'Conveniently' Forgot lol ;-)
I will say the trick with the burn method is to only get it hot enough to start burning on it's own, then let it go. Getting the aluminum glowing hot absolutely destroys them!
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My preference is to use a wire wheel on a bench grinder, but I like to soften any cured resin with heat beforehand. My shop is attached to my home so a torch (open flame) isn't an option. Instead, I use an industrial heat gun (Milwaukee brand) to do the job. There are times when I use an alternative method where I put tools in my glass bead blasting cabinet. The glass beads do a wonderful job with removing resin and other debris without harming the tool metal.
I don't know what epoxy you're using mate but a grinder with a brass, steel or welders wheel on it will skim the alloy down as fast as it does the best epoxies. I'm generally confused at this as I've seen a few people in the comments recommend this but every boat builder including myself and Andy know to try a wire brush or wheel on just about anything annoying at first. It's the damage it does to the alloy and certainly proper epoxy (you know the brand I don't need to name it) is an absolute boss at resisting wire brushes and I've even used the graphite 423 filler in it and it would laugh at any wire wheel you'd need a grinding wheel to deal with that combo And I'm not kidding its utterly ridiculous I melted out a 5% cobalt drill bit drilling M4/5/6 sized fitment holes in a test piece that had nothing but 10 layers of UK power bound (our powder bound chop is designed to work with proper epoxy) 450gram chop strand and 2 thick barrier coats with graphite filler at the maximum advised weight% rate at each side of the glass I'd just layed and it made a fool of 5% cobalt drill bits after about 10 holes. The drill bits were £7 a piece.
Same here I use a wire wheel too.
Another vote for the wire wheel in the bench grinder. Just wear glasses is all, those little chips go everywhere
Torches put out to much heat and CAN melt aluminum rollers. The best means to clean a ribbed roller that has resin cured on. Requires a few steps to clean proper. First use a heat gun NOT a torch, in a vented area. heat it a lot, When heated enough a pic can often pull some if not most of the resin out from the ribs. I like to use a bench vice with 2 bits of wood or wooden mixing sticks to protect the roller when clamping. When finished take it to a bench wire wheel to finish the cleanup.
Plain old windex makes the wire wheel even faster!
I notoriously delay cleaning these a tip id like to share is i put the fin roller in my drill press chuck and reduced the speed to very low and i used a snap on pick to remove all the dried resin, you just need to make sure you do not over tighten the chuck as it can collapse them and you wont be able to reuse if the inside barrel is crushed, i also use a map torch to heat it up quickly in short bursts, i wish these were disposable they are always a pita to clean.
Several years ago we looked into removing powercoating with a laser. Powdercoat is just like “fiberglass“. They are almost all poly,epoxy or vinyl based. In my research i found several science articles that claimed that burning exopy produced AsH4 and AsH3. The latter is arsine..... I was never able to confirm the exact quantities produced per weight/volume. After extensive research on the danger of arsine we abandoned the project. Please do your own research and make your own conclusions..... Have a great day and thank you for all the very informative and entertaining videos.
We have 2 buckets of acetone one with black screw on lid and one with white. White is clean and black is dirty. After my guys (or myself) use it we throw our stuff in the acetone bucket (black one) then after it has about 7 or so roller frames or fun rollers one will shake up the bucket and use a chip brush to clean it. Then once clean it goes into white bucket. We strain the buckets every once in a while then The white bucket acetone eventually gets strained and dumped into the black and fresh acetone added the white. Never have issues with fin rollers. The key is to shake the bucket right when you put the fin roller in so it comes out of the fins.
Again another great video, sure wished I could work fir you fir a week no pay just to learn the things you forgot man this first sponson/pontoon I designed for a small flat decked platform, just to get me to a few of my favorite fishing spots since my 21’ center console was stolen along with my 2,500 bumper and lighting system I had in and on it, saving for another down payment, couldn’t afford the kayak I wanted. Way off subject, but I learned how much fiberglass and resin I wasted, the last section I glassed laid down 3 layers of woven and there won’t be much sanding, it looked so smooth and professional, 3 layers one after another but let get thumbnail intention hard my second one(catamaran style little boat) won’t take me half as long and 150.00 cheaper cause I know what I’m doing now thanks to you. 90% less waste second go around. Thanks so much and the one piece suite keeps me outta the shower 4 times a day as well as my sheets don’t itch any more lol
I have been watching you now for about a year schooling myself on what I used to know. Although you are talking about boats and repairing them my project is an old kit car that I built in 1972 I have kept it and it has slowly but surely deteriorated. I need to build a flat panel that will end up being the firewall and new floor. My question is if I was to make a form to fabricate a flat sheet but have a portion that I can bend when all the fiberglass and resins in place can I bend it while it is curing so that I end up with a firewall up and a floor horizontal with maybe a radius of a 6 in or so? Again thank you very much for your information it I have thoroughly enjoyed watching you and and learning from you. Gary
Great vid Andy 👌
I'll use a flame if it's set up and the rollers bonded to the frame , then use a wire wheel to clean it up. 👌
Oh the crazy people here in California are going nuts over everything done in this video.😂 from burning to evaporating.🤙 love your videos!
Andy yer a legend mate but you need to get a proper UK toffee hammer heavy enough and you need to blunt off a few of the tips on your old spring loaded punches and use them to shock it off. They make short work of everything mate and see the reason you melt rollers is if your torch can't heat quick enough and to much time spent heating the entire thing through so look at the burn off method like a soldering iron in that you want to be in and out quick and have a hot enough tool to allow for it without being overly hot, you know what I mean mate I know you do. Anyway thats how we do it here in Scotland👍 long term Sub I rarely comment mate. You're a legend Andy 🙌
I have several metal one gallon cans for different solvents that I pour left overs like acetone in. There are lots of jobs that do not require virgin solvent so that's how I deal with left overs. If I have to dispose of a solvent it is already in a container to take to the hazardous waste disposal site.
Beautifully timed for me as I have two rollers in need of a torch session...thank you
I like the flame thrower idea. The pick is less my favorite. One trick I have used is a hack saw blade in a vise. Rub the roller on the blade not the other way round. The blade I used fit between the fins so I was able to clean down to metal and it was a fast process when just cleaning a few fins.
According to West System, lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol (in that order) work best at dissolving uncured epoxy.
So will a high content rubbing alcohol found in drug stores¡ Maybe even cheaper!
Great video Andy! I follow all the same procedures here.
Hello! I am rebuilding a small boat (4,5m) and your video help me out a lot. I would like to ask you a question. I fiberglass the hole boat and decided to paint it with gelcoat. I fair it all one time. Do i have to fair it again? How thick is gelcoat? Is one coat enough? Thank you in advanced!!
When will you be putting out any fiberglass repair videos?? I believe they are the favorites to most people watching. Take care 🇺🇸👍🙏
A few days ago I thought I invented a bicycle while cleaning my heavily clogged roller with blow torch. Obviously the bicycle had been already invented by someone :D Watching this video half way I was thinking about suggesting to do this outside at least... To sound smart, you know. Well, great minds think alike, what else to say :D You have a very good channel, I've learned a lot from you, keep it up! Thanks!
Great tip Andy! clogged fin rollers are a pain in the arse to clean! lol. Never thought of using a torch before, that was definitely a winner. Always look to you for inspiration. Maybe some more inspiration on the Bertram?
Have often used a wire wheel. No idea why a torch had not occurred to me, so thanks a bunch! My rollers have impossible to get to cir-clips securing them to the frame.
Nice little video Andy. Always like the little fin roller. I actually made once with large and small washers on a cut down small paint roller. I don't do much fiberglassing. So it does do the job. Thanks for sharing the video.
Holy cow that's a good idea.
People make paper shredders the same way.
What do you use to keep the washers on the paint roller? Like what goes on the end? Do you use a clamp of some sort?
Being a bit of a cheapskate, I use the nylon fin rollers. Use...dunk in acetone, brush a bit, and if after 5 or 7 uses it's too gummed up....toss it. If I'm down to my last one, I'll try to pick it clean. Seems to me the resin releases more easily from them than steel rollers.
Just my $.02
Ohhhhhh…..now I know. My nitrile gloves lose their fingers with acetone….definitely ordering latex from now on. Thanks for the tip. 😎💕💕💕
MEK will soften cured epoxy & make cleaning a fin roller really easy. Don’t ask me how I know that. 🤨 Thanks for posting Andy. Cheers! Rick
No it doesn't mate. Again like the Vineguar argument, if it's not in its later chemical drying stage or chemically cured then fairy platinum liquid and water does as good a job if not better job at epoxy removal as any liquid will tend to thin out any epoxy right up till the chemical reaction on the very surface. I can 100% guarantee you that cured west systems will not come off with MEK its 2-butanone it has zero chance against cured proper epoxy, people are saying all this stuff but none of them stand a chance against fully cured pure epoxy as its factually not allowing saturation from any of them for years even under high UV applications the UV damage would need a good while to do the job. If you can remove cured proper pure epoxy types from any material with a chemical it's because the material you layed it on was contaminated prior to the lay up. I was forced to do this stuff at test level for 7yr mate while I recovered from a broken back and neck (motorbike accident) and genuinely spent about a year trying to make my own cured epoxy removal chemical and its pointless. Believe it or not they actually sell "cured epoxy" removal junk here from the pure epoxy brands and they do nothing, I can beat them pouring whisky on them 🙆 I don't know what's going on with it all but it's goof were all talking about it now.
Before you used the flame, i thought of aanother way
Get some threaded rod, jam 2 nuts near one end allowing enough room to chuck in a drill
Fed the roller on the rod and secure with another nut, basically you make a mandrel
Then ussing a pick or similar in the grooves while spinning in the drill
I find that a pillar drill or some other secured drill is best for similar operations, i use this method for filing or sanding round objects as i don't own a lathe
I use dremmel tool with a cutting blade to get in-between the ridges. Takes about 5 min and grinds the epoxy right off. Didn't ruin the roller as long as you have steady hands.
Does the beer happen before or after breaking out a torch? I think the sequence could be important.
Try the Nitrile ml thickness gloves. They don't seem to melt with the Acetone in my experience. I get them from Harbor Freight normally.
I've been told with epoxy resins that white vinegar will soften it up, but it will not touch poly or vinyl
Hi, thanks, this solved on of my mishaps. One question though: why don't you use xylol, the solvent for not yet cured epoxy?
For some reason I've always prefered the plastic over the metal rollers. As far as cleaning, I find on small patches an ounce or 2 of acetone in a pot swish the roller around in it then take it apart & swish it around in another pot with clean acetone. Take it out let it dry. A little wax on the threads, reassemble & your good. Then, take the 2nd acetone pour it into the 1st pot & put a lid in it & store it in a safe place. Keep using that acetone till it's not usable any more then dispose of it.
Great share - Looks like something you can 3D print a dozen of, just toss when done.
Hack saw blade works. I put the fin roller lightly in a vice horizontally. As you saw between the fins, stop and twist the blade. The blade teeth will grab the resin and pop it out! Almost as fun as peel ply!
WHAT ARE THOSE GLOVES! And where can I get some?
“life happens “ is my excuse
And the go to is the wire wheel on the bench grinder.
Safety first, don’t forget your squint goggles.
Thank you so much for this. I might be able to save my roller after all. 😀
Oh man, I cant believe i never thoguht of torching my roller. i'm sad to admit how many i've thrown out after getting frustrated. Thanks!
Is it a bad idea to coat the roller in mold release before using it? I do, I haven't noticed any issues....I use mine with prepreg carbon though, while laying flat sections.
Thanks for the tip 👍👋🇨🇦
What i do for used acetone is mark an old container used acetone and pour it in that container for future cleaning only.
The Best part was snapping those gloves on! LOL
At the beginning of the video, I was thinking "Is he seriously not going to flame the roller??" I've used that technique for all of my metal knives and rollers, especially a fillet knife I made that gets really, really encrusted after a day of use. And I always check wind direction before the resin catches fire because of that black smoke.
How do you keep the roller clean while you're working on a large job?
putting a bit of talc powder on your hands will make taking gloves off easier.. Wire wheel brush on drill will clean up that carbon..
Great that’s really useful
Metal lathe and parting tool works for me .
That's definitely cheating ;-)
Heatgun and after that rotating steelbrush. Works 100%.
Wish Andy was my neighbor. We’d be buddies for sure lmao
While it’s great info, I don’t have time for this in my business. I figure the cost of these into every job I do and buy new ones. Simply don’t have this kind of time. For the occasional diy home guy it works. Some people might think my outlook is over the top and my prices are too high , however I’m not trying to be the cheapest company out there. I’d rather focus on quality. When folks complain I just happily refer them to someone else.
Would a wire wheel on a grinder work good also??
Very interesting, especially since I think that such rollers are not cheap.
I use a chuck drill and a wire brush to clean the fins
No joke mate if its west systems that's fully cured on a paddle or fin roller then you'll skim the alloy flat with the steel brush at the same rate or faster than the epoxy will care, even on a grinder with steel wire attachments youl quickly put hills in the paddles and fins and have a wonky roller leaving flat spots. The brass wire is useless, proper epoxy will eventually sand down with a brass brush but again youl take more off the alloy than the epoxy itself. Burning west systems off is OK as long as you either remove the roller from the roller frame and use a hotter burning gas like mapp gas in your torch so you are spending less time hovering over the roller therefore you keep the alloy under the critical melting point which will vary depending on how good your roller manufacturer is, for example I picked up paddle, fin and corner roller while I was over on holiday in Japan in 2018 (I'm Scottish) and they can easily take 550-650 degC all day every day whereas the expensive alloy ones here in UK will usually melt out way before that I estimate about 450-500deg and you're in the danger zone. The cheapo ones I can melt them with a 2200w heat gun so I estimate they take about 400 max... so you get what you pay for in rollers and I suspect that will always be the case as its a material critical item they aint selling the hight end old British made ones or the Japanese made ones for cheap as they'd be worth more in core material value alone. One other thing to note is that most poly and vinyl epoxy or in general the cheaper epoxies, won't need anywhere near the level of cleaning as the proper top epoxy brands as I can get some of the decent poly and vinyl epoxies off a paddle roller with a toffee hammer alone once they cure, infact its my preffered method to remove polly and Viny once its cured with a toffee hammer or a spring loaded punch that I blunted the tip. That won't work on proper epoxy though, It will force cracks and remove certain bits on proper epoxy but won't remove it with few hits youl be there for a while. I can tell you how to shock it off them with our 240v mains and a few chemicalls but thats well dodgy so I'm not wishing to annoy Andy posting stuff that might have been the norm in the 80s but yeah... not these days when coffee machines need the "don't drink from this nozzle" warnings and people who think 240v is to be played with when its a 70% death sentence if you get it wrong.
Simple way to get the gloves off. Grab the wrist ring (cuff) and pull the glove down over your hand and off the end, this then seals all the gunk you're protecting yourself from inside a ball of rubber now, while holding the first glove in your fingers pull the wrist ring of the other glove down again with the bare hand. You now have the first glove wrapped up in the second glove and both can be thrown in your trash container.
Thank you
Time is money and this seems to be a waste of time, do they make these in disposable plastic ....
Was taught to torch and wire brush
Thank you very much.
I'll let mine sit overnight in a covered mixing cup of acetone, then the next day it is all nice and soft. I put it back together, and take it to my wire wheel on the bench grinder. Easy peasy.
Wire wheel on drill, grinder or bench grinder.
The flame method seems quick, but I think if I had to manually scratch it out Id be thinking "meh, its only $8 for a new one" haha
The last time I did any epoxy work, I used 60% alcohol (fuel or lamp alcohol) for my cleanup. It seemed to cut the epoxy much better than acetone. Anyone else tried this?
Methylene Chloride will work also
Why are there no cheapo plastic rollers?
If you throw the epoxy covered roller in a pan in the freezer it will not cure and stay pliable, until you get a chance to clean.
My fin roller is made from plastic(HDPE I think) so it is easy to peel off the old resin.
I hate to mess with a pro like you but there's a way to pour from a full can without spilling.
If there is, I've not found it lol ;-)! I'll wrap some papertowel just below the lip of the container so that when it drips, it's on the towel and not the side of the can
@@boatworkstoday The least spillage occurs when the can is poured on it's long side with the hole at the top. That way there's no air bubbling up through the liquid and you can pour as slowly as needed with a steady, constant stream. It's possible to pour a few drops at a time that way. The lip of the cap-hole extends past the lower edge of the can by the time the can is tilted far enough for pouring. I learned by watching an old Painter 60 some-odd years ago. I wish there was a sufficient way to tell you how significantly your videos have changed my life but I just don't think that's possible. At the age of 74 I bought my first boat, a 30 year old Coastal 230 Wellcraft needing substantial fiberglass and gelcoat repair. You are a god in that world.
Yup from a full can always flip the container and pour with the spout on top. Any dribbles land on the lid of the can instead of the side. I noticed you pour from the bottom too…try it you’ll like it!
Ugh. A bunch of mine have melty parts inside. Just dunk em in a bucket of acetone. The end.
Surfasolve in an ultrasonic bath will do the trick.
Vinegar seems to work really well for epoxy, but you probably shouldn't leave it in very long.
West systems laughs at vinegar it helps it cure and removes bubbles like its its ideal thinner.
To add to my last comment, vinegar works really well on anything it can saturate or get behind to get to the bare material. Thats not possible with proper epoxies they don't even notice vinegar. I'm confused as to why people are saying wire brushes and vinegar and the likes as west systems and simmilar high end proper epoxy will laugh at vinegar and simply not let it near the rollers material, it does get some off the edges where you have ways for chemicals to get in but it won't penetrate further in so 🤷 I mean I don't know if it's that the UK gets way better quality epoxy or whatever but boat builders and even car mechanics here will have been taught or tried every easy normal method of removal for any highly resilient bonding or finishing product, yet here we automatically know not to even try it as its a guaranteed way to contaminate the alloy, chemically melt or just outright oxidise the roller. No idea wtf is going on tbh as none of these methods you are all saying work here. We use mapp gas in torches to burn it off quick but not much time for heatsoak to melt the alloy (500ish deg C will do that) blunted spring loaded then if anythings left on it we tap with a toffee hammer, if it takes the toffee hammer after a heat and cool cycle then it gets hit with a blunted tip on a automotive grade spring loaded punch, that ensures the job is done. Not spent more than about 3-4 mins cleaning any type paddle, fin or corner roller for over 30yr now mate.
Soak it in white vinegar and the resin will come right off.
Make a fin roller cleaner, of the plastic in the cups. They should sell that with the rollers.
Well, I Let The Acetone Cleaning Cup Settle & Then Pour Off Most Into A Heavy Canning Jar To Seal & Re-Use For More Cleaning Stuff... Waste Not - Want Not... 🤣😁😎
I just use a jig saw on low speed.
You can get a 5 pack of these from amazon for like $15.
Ikr it's £15 here in UK from the shop or Amazon for two roller frame with 3 paddle rollers and 3 fin rollers. They are heavy cut so even if epoxy cures in them you get like 3 or 4 full wet sessions after that before the fins/paddles are not doing their job right because the cured epoxy has winded them out with shoulders so the excess isn't moving out the way correctly. Can do like a full 12 boat with 2 packs mate. I think Andy is meaning more people who don't want to have to bin stuff after use as it's tight times these days dude. Was only the other day a peach of a recovery truck Scania V8 lorry came in our estate and lifted two cars clean out a guy who lost his job 6 month ago driveway, they didn't even open his gate or go in the property and BMW had deactivated the alarms on them remotely behind his back. He was only on £34k a year so no idea why he had £92k in BMWs him and his wife. They are unreliable junk for a start, thats a different story though.
I can smell this video.....lol
Soak it in white vinegar and the resin will melt off. Easy.
A hard-learnt pro lesson- to clean your rollers and tools. Methylene chloride.
Done.
I never ever would have dreamed of giving YOU a piece of advice ( or let's say a hint ).Next time you want to remove your gloves, lift and blow in the glove. And .. tataaa
I prefer to let it cure, forget about it.. then be pissed off the next time I need it 😐
Nope. Way too much work! take a coffee can or something and light a small fire and hang the tip of the rollers over the side and the resin will melt and drip off. Come back in 10 mins and rollers will be resin free. Wash um in old acetone real fast and good to go. Holding the torch on it for a long time can heat the metal too much and make it soft. Don’t sit there and breath the fumes! No need to use a bit either the resin will melt out.
Buy a new one
Use plain water on uncured epoxy, works better than acetone!
Your dad jokes are terrible