G'Day Andy. I finally bought my first fibreglass half cabin only a month ago at the age of 56. Our kids are raised and flown the nest so it's time for "our fun". Straight away I new I wanted to move the steering position up onto the angular console face because it was to low and almost between my knees. So I got to digging into how-to vid's because I had to strengthen the face to mount the new steerage point. There was no ply in the top face.. You've quickly become my fibreglass work go-to guru for your simple explanations and obvious skills... One tip I might offer you after watching this particular vid is, you can buy 4"x4" vinyl "slip sheets" really cheapy to use as templates to accurately cut out your ply pieces for the stiffened transom centre. That way you'll avoid those gaps where the resin leaked so bad to a degree... They're used on pallets by forklift drivers to push or pull nylon bulk-bags and other products onto pallets without risking fork blade damage... For a big template cut-out you just glue one or two together. They cut and shave super easy with a safety knife.... Cheers, Danny.
My wife loved your ziplock bag idea. We have been doing boat projects for 50 years and recently built a boat as our covid project and this would have been helpful.
I said to myself when I saw him spread the epoxy on the coosa that I would have thickened it a little more, to be close to a consistency of mayonnaise. The end of the video told me I was right. I used to glue the transoms using an M600 with a fatty amount of polyester and used large offset screw clamps (home made ones). In fact, we used polyester resins and puttys most of the time, and we kept the epoxy for very difficult repairs. I love this channel. :)
I used 3/16 notches trowel, one direction on one side, 90 degrees to that on opposing side. Grades thickness, provides even covering and aboids over application and waste. A lot depends on judgement concerning varied depth of unevenness of surface being applied to. Mayonaise / PB vs ketchup ;) Worked well for me! :)
Ya, the last Donzi 16 recored I did I used a bigger notched trowel (like 1/4-V notch) and much thicker resin. Great transfer to both surfaces and the knotched trowel marks allows air to escape.
Yes to Mayo but no to a bi-directional trowel. Wet both surfaces with non thickened epoxy. Then apply the Mayo like epoxy with 3/16 -1/4” step trowel so it ends up vertical. Apply surfaces in contact bottom first then clamping pressure working bottom up. Cross patterning trowel is more likely to have little trapped bubbles. Your right, judgement, but I’d like to add planing and logic.
Fantastic as always Andy 👌 Love the longer videos , could watch them for hours . Really helpful and informative. Tip for loading your zip lock bags for piping, put the bag into a plastic measuring cup, then can poor the mix in easier 😉 can't wait for next week now 👍
We would like longer videos. Not 1.5 hr and stuff but a little more than what you just did. We like what you are doing and having to wate for it is hard to do. You do great work. Thats for sharing and thanks for listening to us as well with the ideas on adding glass instead of sanding it off. We really like helping you in those areas.... lol
Dear Andy, I am probably overdoing it a bit but I use to roll out 1 thin layer of non thickened epoxy on all surfaces to bond. While this becomes tacky, I prepare another batch of epoxy in which I include way more collodial silica, almost like the putty used at the end of your video. this thickened epoxy I apply with a fine glue comb to both surfaces letting them "suck" together
Great video Andy. Looking forward to the reasoning for such a runny mix. An alternative method may be to prime each surface first let that get tacky then spread a much thicker mix on with a notched trowel. Larger notches for the first layer to account for the rough transom and finer notches for the second layer as it’s two smooth surfaces. 👍
it is so fluid, how can you be sure it did not just flow by gravity leaving hollows between the boat and the first layer of coosa? the batch in the plastic bag was holding itself a lot more...
@@boatworkstoday Good - I was wondering the same thing - when I have bonded with Epoxy I have been mixing a bit thicker so i am curious as the reason I have a core repair to do in the spring with Balsa
I guess when you're doing a large area like that it's best to be looking at the resin left over than looking for it !! Just an observation though, the second piped mix looked more like the slump consistency I'd be comfortable with for the gluing up of the coosa panels, great video , job and outcome al the same.
Andy do a polyester bog mix and watch how long it takes to go hard. Work time for poly bog is a lot longer then I thought and lots more working time then epoxy. It’s hot where I live! So pretty sure you’ll be surprised
Excellent video once again. As far as a little long only by your definition I'm sure we would all love longer videos ! Thanks again for all this knowledge and expertise you give us every week.
I like to pre-wet my coosa with a thin unthickened epoxy coat first, which seems to help the thickened stay put better. I'm using it in a fiberglass car application, BTW.
Aww man, I wish this video had been out before I laid that g10 on the bottom of that jeep you're helping me with. I mixed my epoxy way thicker that what you did here. More like how you mixed the batch you pipped in the zip lock bag. Wasn't runny at all. Should I be worried? I did get some squeeze out. And I used long lag bolts though all of it into 4x4's and tightened the crap out of them. It sounded good with the tap test. Ryan B.
I would really like to know a little more about your through bolt clamp technique. Do you place a sheet of plywood on each side to spread out the pressure? How do you prevent the through bolts from becoming permanently glued in? How do you keep epoxy from running through the bolt hole and permanently attach the plywood if it's there to spread the pressure? Really enjoy your show. I've nearly finished watching all of your episodes a second time through.
Good advice on how to deal with the left over epoxy. My neighbor burned his house down after removing a fresh epoxy finish from new flooring and putting all in a garbage bag.
Perfect timing for my project and the consistancy allows the epoxy to mesh between the panels well and it will set up quickly. I like how you filled the seams. Can't wait to see the glass install. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for what you do! Gave me my inspiration back to finish my 1975 fiberform 19'er! Got to finish the glass work over the new stringers and lay the deck....ect!!!
Fantastic job Andy, i had no idea you were fitting 2 sheets of coosa!not paying attention somewhere!🙈guess that's why i joined the army!🤣 love the bag piping,had a few guys recomend to me for filleting. Next big filleting job I'll be getting myself some bags👍🏻👍🏻🤙
I know I am ok with the longer videos! You always have great content and explain what your process is going to be and different option someone could do and have the same results! Great job Andy!
You know when I was dealing with Coosa approximately a year ago, there wasn't that much information on TH-cam, I think shipshape had a program. Just a suggestion, you might want to add Coosa to your title for search engine purposes. Just adding Coosa to the transom has made that transom (1.5 inches) far far superior than it ever thought about being. I think you do a fantastic job of explaining ...and I have to say Boatworks is one-stop shopping for anything fiberglass-related.
Great video i'm just in the process of trying to fill in a key hole on a stern drive to take a pod with an outboard. it's doing my head in. thanks for your input with repairs cheers from Melbourne Australia.
You are a craftsman I learned a lot from the last 3 of your videos I've watched and determined how I will approach my transom problems , Would you like to buy a 1958 Dunphy ? Thanks !
Andy, After building a fiberglass kit boat years ago, I'm really impressed watching you work. I wonder though, why you didn't place a light, wet layer of glass material under the first layer of CUSA to eliminate any chance of voids in the bound to the transom?
Been watching this project and very impressed, sometimes find it difficult to read what I sometimes think of as being quite negative crytisism (sp?). Think of it as positive crytique. Keep doing what you do mate, entertaining education, and a brilliant insight for the many.
Great to see how others do it. Personally I would wet out both contact surfaces with the runny soup and then add the thickened to peanut butter non runny mix to one side using the notched trowel. Possibly overkill but like you said... If it's worth doing well for peace of mind in a high stress area then it's worth doing well! ✌️👍👌
I also thicken my resin before I add the hardener. When doing small pieces you can have a big thickened batch ready to go, just pour out and add hardener as you need in stead of starting from scratch every time.
Is there ever an instance where you would glass between coosa? If you were using ply would you use a layer of glass between? And if so what kind of glass? I am going to be replacing the transom on an 87 Chris Craft SeaHawk and have been using your channel religiously to learn!
Glad you filled those gaps, was worrying me as a weak spot. Hope you epoxy a layer or two of glass over there before reforming all the bits you cut away. Nice job.
I wish I saw this video before I bought bonded my deck cores to the glass on my sailboat project. The thickened epoxy would have be a good idea. In any case it bonded well,but I see it could have been better. I know you're a busy man. I would love your thoughts on my project if you had the time. All documented here on TH-cam of course.
Did you consider applying the slightly thickened expoxy to the transom inner surface to insure more complete wet out and adhesion? Also could have used an old paint brush to paint the squeeze out to the gaps around the panels as a pre-filler before inserting the real thick product in the plastic bag? Things seem to go better when both sides have a liquid surface? only asking...
I couldn't find ziploc bags here when I was doing epoxy fillets but I could get piping bags that cake makers use for icing etc. The ones I got are pretty thick polythene and triangular. Just fill em up and snip off the bottom for the size of fillet. I think they're a lot better than ziplocs. And I thought your epoxy wasn't thickened enough as well. Looking forward to the reasoning!
Learnt a lot from your videos i have just done fiber glassing for the first time on my boat i have cut out an old cupboard and made a bigger one part 1 has just gone on my channel just wanted to say thank you i have subscribed a while back too
So on a scale of ....uuhm - yeah cool, how comfortable are you with the filler around the coosa? I am just thinking that the boards are now creating stress on the ends where it is joined. You are the expert and want to do a transom replacement so I am making notes in every video until it is done and then I will watch it again before I try it. Awesome as always to watch!!
My only problem with not mixing the hardner first is my thinking that if the media is absorbent it's only soaking up the un-hardened mix then only getting hardner on the outside of the particle when mixed and not entirely through it ... I'm probably over thinking it though.
Nice job bro. That bond is wicked good. I disagree with the comments the consistency was too runny. While some ketchup may have squeezed through. at least you have the knowledge that there is total coverage and not a 1/4in silica thickened oreo with a million bubbles between you're 2 pieces of coosa or the transom. 👏
Hey Andy great channel sir been watch for a few year about to start a project redoing a Carolina skiff j16 replacing the fiber glass floor and foam can I use epoxy with 1708 biaxial
Great video thank you! I always like to keep a few small projects ready to epoxy when I do a bigger epoxy job and that way (if I have time) I have a use for any extra mixed epoxy.
Is there a reason you didn't thicken the epoxy more when installing the Coosa. My light on experience says I would have, but I'm second guessing myself now. just trying to understand the thought process. Sorry if I'm Digging at something you wish you'd have done different for all of us to see. Love you stuff. New Patreon soon as I can swing it.
Hi Andy I have a very old piece of barn wood that I would like to make into a table top. The piece is 20 in wide by 1 1/4 in thick and heavily weathered. I do not want sand the surface as I would like to retain the grey patina of the wood. I would also like the finish to be clear when set. Which material do you think would work best, epoxy or resin ? Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide. Russ
the thin first layer allows to bond with product like airex or other uneven core material, the second "thick glue" does the structural bonding without flowing out from between the panels. Finally - I know you don't like it - I do use peelply at the edges to prepare them for further glassing over
It was good to start with a thin mix to allow wetting into the Coosa, but in order to hold more epoxy I would have thought some biaxial glass mat would have helped. I was surprised when I saw you go straight to Coosa. I know you ran into a time crunch but why not anticipate squeeze out and just use the scooped out squeeze out with cabosil, mix it and pipe it into at least the top gap?
Maybe should’ve joined coosa panels prior to fit up? All the squeeze out would’ve alarmed me that gravity took a bit too much product out from upper section of transom
When you scooped up the squeeze out back into the bucket could you have added more silica to it and then piped that into the voids? Or was it done as soon as it squeezed out?
I would have wanted to do that but not easy with all those props in place and once those are in never move them until epoxy is cured. I would also have used some talc and microspheres its only packing until its glassed over after all. In my shop there's always some filling or fairing elsewhere to use up excess epoxy :)
i have a question i am currently rebuilding my catamaran powerboat that is made from kevlar now i am rebuilding the transom and i want to replace the wood with coosa board right now the thickness is 3.5cm but i want to add another motor how much extra thickness do i need??
Curious why you didn't vacuum it, we use vacuum for core installation in turbine blades, can apply a huge amount of pressure over a massive area with complex shapes easily
I was a bit surprised that you didn't wet out the surfaces with unthickened epoxy, particularly the Coosa to Coosa bond, before putting the thickened epoxy on. I guess that you used such a thin mix was the reason. Personally I would have wet the surfaces then used a thicker mix for gap filling, but that is just me. Looks like it came out fine though. Did you actually put the left over epoxy on gravel or just stick it into a snow bank. The latter is what we would have done in February here in Maine, but maybe you are snow free there in northern Wisconsin.
I would give it a solid 9, you would have to have more costly precision cutting setup to have no gaps around the coosa, and you will always have the seeping when doing an insert into a vertical section. You could probably roll a wax paper cone to make a piping bag, a smaller tip to cut so you can pipe deeper into the gaps making a better chance of the fill go completely to the back.
Vacuum bag would have been perfect for that application. The forces generated with a pressure (or lack thereof) over an area are tremendous. F=P*A, assume 13psi for imperfect vacuum over an 2’x4’ area = almost 15,000 lbs of force applied to that surface.
Question Andy where you maybe a little on the thin side with the thickened epoxy maybe half way closer to PB then ketchup??? Just a honest question is all for us to all know.
G'Day Andy. I finally bought my first fibreglass half cabin only a month ago at the age of 56. Our kids are raised and flown the nest so it's time for "our fun". Straight away I new I wanted to move the steering position up onto the angular console face because it was to low and almost between my knees. So I got to digging into how-to vid's because I had to strengthen the face to mount the new steerage point. There was no ply in the top face.. You've quickly become my fibreglass work go-to guru for your simple explanations and obvious skills...
One tip I might offer you after watching this particular vid is, you can buy 4"x4" vinyl "slip sheets" really cheapy to use as templates to accurately cut out your ply pieces for the stiffened transom centre. That way you'll avoid those gaps where the resin leaked so bad to a degree... They're used on pallets by forklift drivers to push or pull nylon bulk-bags and other products onto pallets without risking fork blade damage... For a big template cut-out you just glue one or two together. They cut and shave super easy with a safety knife.... Cheers, Danny.
The only channel I watch where it would be ok for a hour video lol
My wife loved your ziplock bag idea. We have been doing boat projects for 50 years and recently built a boat as our covid project and this would have been helpful.
I said to myself when I saw him spread the epoxy on the coosa that I would have thickened it a little more, to be close to a consistency of mayonnaise. The end of the video told me I was right.
I used to glue the transoms using an M600 with a fatty amount of polyester and used large offset screw clamps (home made ones). In fact, we used polyester resins and puttys most of the time, and we kept the epoxy for very difficult repairs.
I love this channel. :)
Well Andy your conscious will alow you sleep at night, you did the right thing. Well done, this why your a true professional. 👍
I wouldn’t worry about how long the videos are I could watch you all day iv learned so much from you alone
I use an old open 19 oz can to hold the plastic bag. Place inside and fold over the opening. Holds the bag upright while filling.
I used 3/16 notches trowel, one direction on one side, 90 degrees to that on opposing side. Grades thickness, provides even covering and aboids over application and waste. A lot depends on judgement concerning varied depth of unevenness of surface being applied to. Mayonaise / PB vs ketchup ;)
Worked well for me! :)
Ya, the last Donzi 16 recored I did I used a bigger notched trowel (like 1/4-V notch) and much thicker resin. Great transfer to both surfaces and the knotched trowel marks allows air to escape.
Yes to Mayo but no to a bi-directional trowel. Wet both surfaces with non thickened epoxy. Then apply the Mayo like epoxy with 3/16 -1/4” step trowel so it ends up vertical. Apply surfaces in contact bottom first then clamping pressure working bottom up. Cross patterning trowel is more likely to have little trapped bubbles. Your right, judgement, but I’d like to add planing and logic.
Did the same when I did my friend's and my transom, worked very well for me too.
Hah! I was in the comments to ask why not use a notched trowel? Probably would need more thickening but that seems like it’s a good idea anyway?
Yeh, notched trowel gives you better perspective on how even your glue is. It also helps the glue spread more evenly during the glue up.
Fantastic as always Andy 👌
Love the longer videos , could watch them for hours . Really helpful and informative.
Tip for loading your zip lock bags for piping, put the bag into a plastic measuring cup, then can poor the mix in easier 😉
can't wait for next week now 👍
We would like longer videos. Not 1.5 hr and stuff but a little more than what you just did. We like what you are doing and having to wate for it is hard to do. You do great work. Thats for sharing and thanks for listening to us as well with the ideas on adding glass instead of sanding it off. We really like helping you in those areas.... lol
I totally agree. Longer is a lot better and would make you the greatest to watch out there. Thanks Andy 👍👍
I'm not a boat guy, but have been taking a pretty deep dive into composites fabrication lately. Your channel is amazing Andy! Youtubing done properly!
Dear Andy, I am probably overdoing it a bit but I use to roll out 1 thin layer of non thickened epoxy on all surfaces to bond. While this becomes tacky, I prepare another batch of epoxy in which I include way more collodial silica, almost like the putty used at the end of your video. this thickened epoxy I apply with a fine glue comb to both surfaces letting them "suck" together
Great video Andy. Looking forward to the reasoning for such a runny mix. An alternative method may be to prime each surface first let that get tacky then spread a much thicker mix on with a notched trowel. Larger notches for the first layer to account for the rough transom and finer notches for the second layer as it’s two smooth surfaces. 👍
excellent suggestion!
it is so fluid, how can you be sure it did not just flow by gravity leaving hollows between the boat and the first layer of coosa? the batch in the plastic bag was holding itself a lot more...
That’s what I was thanking
There was some reasoning for having it so thin that I'll touch more on next week in video (easier to explain in video than typing lol :-)
@@boatworkstoday Yes I want to know.
@@boatworkstoday Good - I was wondering the same thing - when I have bonded with Epoxy I have been mixing a bit thicker so i am curious as the reason I have a core repair to do in the spring with Balsa
@@boatworkstoday now that's some teasing... ;) I would have watched anyway.
I guess when you're doing a large area like that it's best to be looking at the resin left over than looking for it !! Just an observation though, the second piped mix looked more like the slump consistency I'd be comfortable with for the gluing up of the coosa panels, great video , job and outcome al the same.
your vids are never too long Andy!
The prep work was spot on!! You get to concentrate on "the job"! Great work!!
I would like to see a video about comparing the strength of thickened epoxy between mixing filler first or mixing hardener first.
Only 6 out of 10?
You made a huge job, look so easy. Well done.
Looks great Andy, glad to see i'm not only one that likes a lady with a thick transom ;-), she is going to an amazing boat!
Thanks for the video, looking forward to next weeks one about the epoxy thickness. What about wetting out both surfaces before mating them?
Andy do a polyester bog mix and watch how long it takes to go hard. Work time for poly bog is a lot longer then I thought and lots more working time then epoxy. It’s hot where I live! So pretty sure you’ll be surprised
Excellent video once again.
As far as a little long only by your definition I'm sure we would all love longer videos ! Thanks again for all this knowledge and expertise you give us every week.
I like to pre-wet my coosa with a thin unthickened epoxy coat first, which seems to help the thickened stay put better. I'm using it in a fiberglass car application, BTW.
Aww man, I wish this video had been out before I laid that g10 on the bottom of that jeep you're helping me with. I mixed my epoxy way thicker that what you did here. More like how you mixed the batch you pipped in the zip lock bag. Wasn't runny at all. Should I be worried? I did get some squeeze out. And I used long lag bolts though all of it into 4x4's and tightened the crap out of them. It sounded good with the tap test.
Ryan B.
I would really like to know a little more about your through bolt clamp technique. Do you place a sheet of plywood on each side to spread out the pressure? How do you prevent the through bolts from becoming permanently glued in? How do you keep epoxy from running through the bolt hole and permanently attach the plywood if it's there to spread the pressure? Really enjoy your show. I've nearly finished watching all of your episodes a second time through.
Excited to hear why you went thinner than I would have. I can't wait for next week! Thanks for all of your lessons over the years Andy!
Good advice on how to deal with the left over epoxy. My neighbor burned his house down after removing a fresh epoxy finish from new flooring and putting all in a garbage bag.
Thanks Andy all the way from Australia. I really learnt a lot for a big recoring job I’ll be doing this winter. Much appreciated
Make your video as long as you want, love watching and learning.
Perfect timing for my project and the consistancy allows the epoxy to mesh between the panels well and it will set up quickly. I like how you filled the seams. Can't wait to see the glass install. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for what you do! Gave me my inspiration back to finish my 1975 fiberform 19'er! Got to finish the glass work over the new stringers and lay the deck....ect!!!
Fantastic job Andy, i had no idea you were fitting 2 sheets of coosa!not paying attention somewhere!🙈guess that's why i joined the army!🤣 love the bag piping,had a few guys recomend to me for filleting. Next big filleting job I'll be getting myself some bags👍🏻👍🏻🤙
Great video! Thanks. BTW, I would suggest you to get a new overall...? Or repair it with fiberglass? 🤪
Interesting work as always. One question; why did you not paint/prep all surfaces with a layer of unthickened epoxy?
I know I am ok with the longer videos! You always have great content and explain what your process is going to be and different option someone could do and have the same results! Great job Andy!
You know when I was dealing with Coosa approximately a year ago, there wasn't that much information on TH-cam, I think shipshape had a program. Just a suggestion, you might want to add Coosa to your title for search engine purposes. Just adding Coosa to the transom has made that transom (1.5 inches) far far superior than it ever thought about being. I think you do a fantastic job of explaining ...and I have to say Boatworks is one-stop shopping for anything fiberglass-related.
Great video i'm just in the process of trying to fill in a key hole on a stern drive to take a pod with an outboard. it's doing my head in. thanks for your input with repairs cheers from Melbourne Australia.
You are a craftsman I learned a lot from the last 3 of your videos I've watched and determined how I will approach my transom problems , Would you like to buy a 1958 Dunphy ? Thanks !
This job was a big step forward getting the transom back together. The result looks good to me.
Happy to watch ,learning more all the time, I have never filled like that, only ever holes with taped edges so find this interesting
Andy,
After building a fiberglass kit boat years ago, I'm really impressed watching you work. I wonder though, why you didn't place a light, wet layer of glass material under the first layer of CUSA to eliminate any chance of voids in the bound to the transom?
Your channel is great . its helped a lot. On to bigger repairs now . when you cut the coosa did you have to angle to meet the bottom
For the areas that were piped in with a zip-lock bag, could you have also folded in saturated glass cloth first?
Been watching this project and very impressed, sometimes find it difficult to read what I sometimes think of as being quite negative crytisism (sp?). Think of it as positive crytique.
Keep doing what you do mate, entertaining education, and a brilliant insight for the many.
You have really put a lot of work into this project and it shows looking real good.
Longer videos are great. It’s looking solid!! Thanks
Great to see how others do it. Personally I would wet out both contact surfaces with the runny soup and then add the thickened to peanut butter non runny mix to one side using the notched trowel. Possibly overkill but like you said... If it's worth doing well for peace of mind in a high stress area then it's worth doing well! ✌️👍👌
Perfect! i'm watching my neighbor prepare his transom for a rebuild and i'll be referring him here!
I also thicken my resin before I add the hardener. When doing small pieces you can have a big thickened batch ready to go, just pour out and add hardener as you need in stead of starting from scratch every time.
Is there ever an instance where you would glass between coosa? If you were using ply would you use a layer of glass between? And if so what kind of glass? I am going to be replacing the transom on an 87 Chris Craft SeaHawk and have been using your channel religiously to learn!
Glad you filled those gaps, was worrying me as a weak spot. Hope you epoxy a layer or two of glass over there before reforming all the bits you cut away.
Nice job.
I wish I saw this video before I bought bonded my deck cores to the glass on my sailboat project. The thickened epoxy would have be a good idea. In any case it bonded well,but I see it could have been better. I know you're a busy man. I would love your thoughts on my project if you had the time. All documented here on TH-cam of course.
Awesome ! I like the ziplock bag trick for epoxy (into gaps).
Andy, what would you do if after you glassed EVERYTHING in...you tapped on the outside and heard a hollow spot?
Love the longer videos.
I agree!
Did you consider applying the slightly thickened expoxy to the transom inner surface to insure more complete wet out and adhesion? Also could have used an old paint brush to paint the squeeze out to the gaps around the panels as a pre-filler before inserting the real thick product in the plastic bag? Things seem to go better when both sides have a liquid surface? only asking...
I couldn't find ziploc bags here when I was doing epoxy fillets but I could get piping bags that cake makers use for icing etc. The ones I got are pretty thick polythene and triangular. Just fill em up and snip off the bottom for the size of fillet. I think they're a lot better than ziplocs. And I thought your epoxy wasn't thickened enough as well. Looking forward to the reasoning!
Learnt a lot from your videos i have just done fiber glassing for the first time on my boat i have cut out an old cupboard and made a bigger one part 1 has just gone on my channel just wanted to say thank you i have subscribed a while back too
Hi Andy, I have a question. When do I use epoxy with hardener and when not. When do I use gelcoat with wax and when not. Thanks
So on a scale of ....uuhm - yeah cool, how comfortable are you with the filler around the coosa? I am just thinking that the boards are now creating stress on the ends where it is joined. You are the expert and want to do a transom replacement so I am making notes in every video until it is done and then I will watch it again before I try it. Awesome as always to watch!!
My only problem with not mixing the hardner first is my thinking that if the media is absorbent it's only soaking up the un-hardened mix then only getting hardner on the outside of the particle when mixed and not entirely through it ... I'm probably over thinking it though.
Nice job bro. That bond is wicked good.
I disagree with the comments the consistency was too runny. While some ketchup may have squeezed through. at least you have the knowledge that there is total coverage and not a 1/4in silica thickened oreo with a million bubbles between you're 2 pieces of coosa or the transom. 👏
Only an expert (as shown) can do a two person job on their own, nice work
Hey Andy great channel sir been watch for a few year about to start a project redoing a Carolina skiff j16 replacing the fiber glass floor and foam can I use epoxy with 1708 biaxial
great video , would it be ok to also epoxy the transom side before pancaking together thanks
Great video thank you! I always like to keep a few small projects ready to epoxy when I do a bigger epoxy job and that way (if I have time) I have a use for any extra mixed epoxy.
Just out of curiosity... Does thickened poly work with the zip lock bag??? or does it melt the bag??? Keep up the good work!!!
When through bolting, how to you fill the voids once core material cures?
Do you fill with ketchup like consistency epoxy?
Thanks!
Is there a reason you didn't thicken the epoxy more when installing the Coosa. My light on experience says I would have, but I'm second guessing myself now. just trying to understand the thought process. Sorry if I'm Digging at something you wish you'd have done different for all of us to see. Love you stuff. New Patreon soon as I can swing it.
Hi Andy
I have a very old piece of barn wood that I would like to make into a table top. The piece is 20 in wide by 1 1/4 in thick and heavily weathered. I do not want sand the surface as I would like to retain the grey patina of the wood. I would also like the finish to be clear when set.
Which material do you think would work best, epoxy or resin ?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.
Russ
I have never used epoxy only poly. When thickening poly I also add chopped fibers in the mix. Could you have mixed that with your epoxy?
The longer videos are a good thing 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey man, your genius lies in the way you know how to sublime your slip ups.
the thin first layer allows to bond with product like airex or other uneven core material, the second "thick glue" does the structural bonding without flowing out from between the panels. Finally - I know you don't like it - I do use peelply at the edges to prepare them for further glassing over
No1708 on the inside of the Coosa or between the Coosa panels?
I get a real kick out of these videos. I have learned a lot here.
Great work! Its so entertaining to watch your videos and every time I see some good tip that I can use in my own projects. Keep up and thank you!
Always learn a lot from your videos. Thanks.
I actually enjoy the longer videos 👍👍😊
Wouldn't there be any issues with the bonding process with this epoxy resin if the boat hull is made with polyester resin?
Could you recommend a good dust mask for sanding fiberglass.
It was good to start with a thin mix to allow wetting into the Coosa, but in order to hold more epoxy I would have thought some biaxial glass mat would have helped. I was surprised when I saw you go straight to Coosa. I know you ran into a time crunch but why not anticipate squeeze out and just use the scooped out squeeze out with cabosil, mix it and pipe it into at least the top gap?
Maybe should’ve joined coosa panels prior to fit up? All the squeeze out would’ve alarmed me that gravity took a bit too much product out from upper section of transom
You're a master of your craft!!
When you scooped up the squeeze out back into the bucket could you have added more silica to it and then piped that into the voids? Or was it done as soon as it squeezed out?
I would have wanted to do that but not easy with all those props in place and once those are in never move them until epoxy is cured. I would also have used some talc and microspheres its only packing until its glassed over after all. In my shop there's always some filling or fairing elsewhere to use up excess epoxy :)
Wow can't believe all the comments about thickened Epoxy! My question is why 2:1 as apposed to 5:1? Thanks for your site!
i have a question i am currently rebuilding my catamaran powerboat that is made from kevlar now i am rebuilding the transom and i want to replace the wood with coosa board right now the thickness is 3.5cm but i want to add another motor how much extra thickness do i need??
Curious why you didn't vacuum it, we use vacuum for core installation in turbine blades, can apply a huge amount of pressure over a massive area with complex shapes easily
any reason you did not glue the 2 panels together first and then glue them onto the transom?
Can you tell me the difference between 5 to 1 and 2 to 1 epoxy? When to use which? Or does it matter?
I was a bit surprised that you didn't wet out the surfaces with unthickened epoxy, particularly the Coosa to Coosa bond, before putting the thickened epoxy on. I guess that you used such a thin mix was the reason. Personally I would have wet the surfaces then used a thicker mix for gap filling, but that is just me. Looks like it came out fine though.
Did you actually put the left over epoxy on gravel or just stick it into a snow bank. The latter is what we would have done in February here in Maine, but maybe you are snow free there in northern Wisconsin.
I would give it a solid 9, you would have to have more costly precision cutting setup to have no gaps around the coosa, and you will always have the seeping when doing an insert into a vertical section.
You could probably roll a wax paper cone to make a piping bag, a smaller tip to cut so you can pipe deeper into the gaps making a better chance of the fill go completely to the back.
Hello, I glue my transon but I think there is not a good bond in some areas, how can I fix it?
Seems like I’m the first! Great video. I enjoy your channel.
I'll give it a 10 ...Nice job Andy ...
Vacuum bag would have been perfect for that application. The forces generated with a pressure (or lack thereof) over an area are tremendous. F=P*A, assume 13psi for imperfect vacuum over an 2’x4’ area = almost 15,000 lbs of force applied to that surface.
Question Andy where you maybe a little on the thin side with the thickened epoxy maybe half way closer to PB then ketchup??? Just a honest question is all for us to all know.
Thanks for the video, stay safe!
A great video, as always. And I loved your DeWALT saw!!