Another awesome video...man I wish I were closer to you...we are still in demo mode over here 😢😢...I wish I were as far along as you are!!...That is gonna be an awesome build Man!!!
Hey great series on the mako, really looking forward to the next vid. I am working on a similar project (18ft sea pro) and need to see how you secure the inner walls to the new floor. Thanks for the vids, has helped a lot with confidence on my project.
Not yet I showed a quick update in the last video rebuilding the center console… going to build the live well and then I’ll seal the floors I just want to run all the lines plumbing first before sealing the deck
It's a no-rot composite sheet material used for coring and decking. Made of high-density polyurethane foam reinforced with layers of woven roving and continuous strand fiberglass. It’s structurally superior, doesn’t absorb water, and weighs 30-40% less than marine plywood. And stronger than plywood
@@dylanbefishing thanks for answer. Is there any translation (coosa board) for portuguese? I search on Portuguese internet, but i can't find the product. Thanks one more time. 🙌🏻
why replace the deck with Coosa and not the one you cut out? Also my mako has an access port for the gas tank and I'm able to take the whole thing out without ripping the deck up, do you plan on making yours easily accessible?
Yea I want everything on this boat to be brand new. And for not making a hatch to remove the tank I thought a lot on that decision and read up on it a little. Nowadays new boat builds don’t do that because of water intrusion. I’ll have a hatch so you can get to the sending unit and all the hoses and wires but that’s it.
@@dylanbefishing ah good to know, my mako had a newer tank 2007 aluminum that started leaking from the bottom, I'm gonna rip it all out and redo everything like you are. I'm getting another aluminum tank, glassing the outside and glassing it to the stringers, I might make a hatch for my tank it'd suck to mess something up and have to reglass it all.
It's way too late for this advise ... you really should address that area over the fuel tank. There was way too much flex when you put the floor down. That needs to be fixed before you proceed on to your glass & fairing work. It will suck, after doing all that work, to have to rip it up & fix it later. Also, you're not mixing in enough silica when making your butter. When bonding things like your flooring material to the stringers, the epoxy should have a peanut butter consistency so that it doesn't run. I hope this doesn't come back to bite you in the future.
thanks for the advice.... so the flex is in the back portion of the 2 floor piece i havent glued the third section of floor in yet.. ill glue a little wedge and foam some more sections so itll be good before i glass the floor and center console in
Dude don’t dump the silica on the ground. If your dog swallows or breathes it in it can cause cancer of their lungs or stomach! Sweet live well and floors.
Another awesome video...man I wish I were closer to you...we are still in demo mode over here 😢😢...I wish I were as far along as you are!!...That is gonna be an awesome build Man!!!
Great work! Looks good, that Coosa will last forever!
Thanks! That’s the plan, a boat that’ll last
Nice job man! Coming along! 🤙
Appreciate it! 🤙🏼
Looks great im learning so much I cant wait to start
Awesome man!!! That’s the biggest and hardest part lol starting
These videos are a tremendous blessing to me. I just started my Mako project yesterday.
Hey great series on the mako, really looking forward to the next vid. I am working on a similar project (18ft sea pro) and need to see how you secure the inner walls to the new floor. Thanks for the vids, has helped a lot with confidence on my project.
did you release a part 2 on the deck install
Not yet I showed a quick update in the last video rebuilding the center console… going to build the live well and then I’ll seal the floors I just want to run all the lines plumbing first before sealing the deck
Hi, what material is "coosa"?
Thanks from Portugal
It's a no-rot composite sheet material used for coring and decking. Made of high-density polyurethane foam reinforced with layers of woven roving and continuous strand fiberglass. It’s structurally superior, doesn’t absorb water, and weighs 30-40% less than marine plywood. And stronger than plywood
@@dylanbefishing thanks for answer. Is there any translation (coosa board) for portuguese?
I search on Portuguese internet, but i can't find the product.
Thanks one more time. 🙌🏻
@@dylanbefishing I need to do a transom on my rib boat, but I don't want use wood, because the wood rots and is very heavy.
Bordel youtube vous allez me censuré mon message combien de fois ?
Acheté le en Allemagne, je ne peux pas donner le nom de la boutique TH-cam me censure
B o o t s h o l z point de
why replace the deck with Coosa and not the one you cut out? Also my mako has an access port for the gas tank and I'm able to take the whole thing out without ripping the deck up, do you plan on making yours easily accessible?
just saw the vid of the deck coming out it looked like shit 😂
Yea I want everything on this boat to be brand new. And for not making a hatch to remove the tank I thought a lot on that
decision and read up on it a little. Nowadays new boat builds don’t do that because of water intrusion. I’ll have a hatch so you can get to the sending unit and all the hoses and wires but that’s it.
@@dylanbefishing ah good to know, my mako had a newer tank 2007 aluminum that started leaking from the bottom, I'm gonna rip it all out and redo everything like you are. I'm getting another aluminum tank, glassing the outside and glassing it to the stringers, I might make a hatch for my tank it'd suck to mess something up and have to reglass it all.
@@SethBro2 why not plastic ? Never have to worry about corrosion or leaks plus lighter than aluminum.
15 psi coosa or 25?
25
What is the name of the material you used to put instead of wood?
After you cut that foam down to the correct level why didn't you coat it with resin. Cheap insurance against water intrusion
I’ve read a lot of stuff saying it’s not necessary for the closed Cell polyurethane foam to be resined so I just made sure to seal it up real good
It's way too late for this advise ... you really should address that area over the fuel tank. There was way too much flex when you put the floor down. That needs to be fixed before you proceed on to your glass & fairing work. It will suck, after doing all that work, to have to rip it up & fix it later. Also, you're not mixing in enough silica when making your butter. When bonding things like your flooring material to the stringers, the epoxy should have a peanut butter consistency so that it doesn't run. I hope this doesn't come back to bite you in the future.
If he’s putting 2 layer of 1708 on top of the Coosa it shouldn’t flex all, also his center console is mostly going to cover that area
He actually should have glassed both sides. @@MrFishgamez
thanks for the advice.... so the flex is in the back portion of the 2 floor piece i havent glued the third section of floor in yet.. ill glue a little wedge and foam some more sections so itll be good before i glass the floor and center console in
Bout damn time. lol
lol I agreee!
Buy yourself a good pair of work boots….take it from an old guy…protect your feet or you will regret it when you are my age!
Definitely been investing in more safety equipment lately 😅
Dude don’t dump the silica on the ground. If your dog swallows or breathes it in it can cause cancer of their lungs or stomach! Sweet live well and floors.