This video is very helpful. The only steps I would add or change is to make sure you back up your data and settings first and upgrade the firmware to the latest revision before calibrating or purging the system. If you have an older firmware on the Lowrance or NSS Evo2 fish finders, it may not be able to detect the autopilot to be able to move the motor to left and right to do the purging. The fish finder in this video demo may already have been upgraded to the latest revision and the power level already set by a previous VRF calibration, so he was able to make the motors move left and right. After the firmware is installed and the system is rebooted, you may need to do a VRF calibration first in order to set the power level high enough to move the motors. Our system was not able to move with the left and right arrow without an initial VRF calibration. After the motor moves, you can purge the system per the video by moving it to left and right. If you move to the end of the travel and move the opposite direction, it would help purge the air bubbles trapped in the valves. After it has been purged, you will need to do a final VRF calibration since the first one is to get the motor to function and may be air trapped in the line. It is also a good practice to wrap electrical tape around the switch wire terminals that you plug together. This will prevent the two terminals from coming apart and help protect it from environment. If you have heat shrink tubing with sealant inside, it would be better way to keep moisture out of the connection. I prefer to cut off the terminals and solder the connections together and use heat shrink tubing with sealant to provide a water tight seal. If you don't have any available NEMA 2000 ports available on your fish finder since it is connected to another existing terminal block (for sensors, GPS, etc), you may need to interconnect the terminal blocks with a cable instead. You will need to remove the dummy load at the end of the old terminal and use a cable to interconnect the new block. An alternative method is to leave the dummy loads in place at the ends and use an empty port to interconnect the two blocks.
Note: The orb fittings in the kit only works for the Baystar/SeaStar helms and not the Protech Uflex helms (UP28F). The SeaStar helms has a -5 sized orb fitting. Uflex helms use -6 sized orb fittings. The "T" fitting that comes in the kit will not fit for left and right ports. However, the center return port is a -5 orb fitting on the Uflex helm, so you can use the right angle fittings that come in the kit. I ended up getting a 6405-06-04 adapter (-6 male orb to 1/4 female NPT) and used the brass "T" fitting to be able to install the system. I have not found a -6 orb stainless "T" fitting that has the orb interface at the end similar to the one in the kit. I also had to buy a set of SeaStar HF6009 straight orb fitting since the kit does not have a set of straight orb. The right angle connector was causing the hose to kink in my helm.
For an electronics manufacturer to do a “how to” video I would suggest you clean up all the original wiring. No heat shrink connectors loose wiring. A novice will see that and think it’s ok and than wonder in a year why everything is corroded and doesn’t work.
Great video and essential for my install a year ago. I can't find my install manual so I was looking for the specified hole size to drill for the quick disconnect button now that I know where I want it. It would have been helpful for you to mention the bit size in the video. For information, my situation required a pump install at 45 degrees rather than horizontal or vertical-up and it has worked fine - so far. In addition, the phone support I got from Lowrance/Navico was outstanding.
Very informative, however a few things could be problematic. The pump is installed upside down. In the event of a simple shaft seal leak, you will have fluid leaking onto the electric motor. The pump should be installed with the motor up and the hydraulic hoses down so a leak won’t ruin your motor. Also, never install electronics on the floor or ground to better avoid water intrusion. Finally, you installed a N2k power T onto the network and one is already marked and installed in the network. Unless you are blocking power or the network is separate, this won’t work.
The video is full of good info, but guys, its NOT a music video, its a tech support video. Please remember that little fact when you are doing the editing.
The instructions say: The pump unit should be mounted horizontally, with the pipe connections/fittings pointing upwards. Use a 90° bracket if mounted on a bulkhead. It could however be mounted directly on a bulkhead, but never with the motor pointing downwards, as oil leak/sweating from a poor shaft seal can easily penetrate the motor and destroy it.
The push button is not a sealed switch. I was out in the rain one time and the AP was engaging on its own due to water intrusion in the switch. Spend the money on a separate sealed switch.
On the hydraulic T connection does it matter which goes to the pump or which goes to the steering ram? I connected it the other way bc the cable was short in my application location and i had the extra play in my original lines.
hi great video, when i set mine up i have an issue: during the calibration both my outboards are set like explained and max port and starboard is set. when i go to sea and test it the autopilot will only turn motors partially to port and centre, not at all to starboard>? any help or tips that can be given?
When you put the GPS antenna on the t top and then opened up your 'access panel' it did not look like their was going to be enough room in that hole to snake the end of the lowrance cable down. How did you or would you get around that? Can you cut the lowrance cable and splice the wires back on to the end?
Hi THe pump is plugged into the NAC unit The NAC unit has a power cord that you connect to 12 VDC. Most vessels will have a terminal block under the helm you can use to tap into the 12VDC. Always ensure the unit is protected with the appropriate size fuse or circuit breaker.
I have the cable steer and just installed I find my point 1 in my network but I do not find anything for the nac-1. This is on a hds-9 carbon with the newest update. Where do I go from here??
Hi, There are a few things to check. The obvious things first. Check that the Nac1 is getting power, the N2K connection is secure. and the autopilot option is selected in features. Go to the home page then advanced and then features. Scroll to the autopilot and check the box. Next go to network and select auto configure. Then check the sources and see if the Nac1 shows. If it does not try moving the N2K connection to the backbone to another drop port. Check to ensure the N2K backbone is properly terminated. It must have a terminating resister at each end. If none of the above works try resetting the display by performing a restore defaults from the system page. Make certain you have backed up any waypoints routes or trails on to an SD card prior to restoring defaults
Yikes! I wouldn't mount any electronics on the floor. Remember this is a boat and things on the floor get wet especially during cleanup. Also I noticed that you were using a cordless drill but had the clutch setting all the way tight. Good way to break things. No need to add a complete new stand alone neama 2000 just add another T.
Getting ready to install the Outboard Pilot and a Simrad GO9 XSE and have 3 questions after viewing this excellent video. Can you please advise why a separate N2K network backbone was created for the autopilot installation versus extending the existing backbone? I was planning on having only one backbone. Why was there no 3 amp fuse on the autopilot's N2K network power cable? The fuse is shown on Fig 9 the installation wiring diagram. The autopilot N2K network and the NAC-1 were both powered from the same bus in the video. However, my Simrad install manual on p.28 has a specific Note "Do not connect the NMEA 2000 power cable to the same terminals as........, autopilot computer, .........or other high current devices." Does this Note only apply to Simrad GO XSE units, or only to NAC-2 & 3 autopilots but not the NAC-1?
Oleg, Thank you for your questions and I will answer these for you. 1. At the 2:00 minute mark of the video, It is explained that if you already have a NMEA 2000 network in the boat, you can just connect to the existing network. It is then explained we were going to install this as a brand new install that did not have an existing NMEA 2000 network on the boat. 2. If you look at the video again, at the 6:15 minute mark in the video, you can see the fuse on the power cable in front of his hand. 3. Many Simrad networks are on boat using 24v power. You do not want the NMEA 2000 network connected to 24v power. The power for a NMEA 2000 network, should be connected to 12v and it's own terminal post.
I have 12 HDS Live, Point-1 and SeaStart Teleflex steering with BA-150 cylinder that has 10.2 ci capacity. I have rudders though not outboards. Would this autopilot work for this set up?
![[[BUDGET]] Upgrade to Hydraulic Boat Steering!!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tYWi8-peD7c/mqdefault.jpg)
Mounting an autopilot during a rave party is pretty cool and shows dedication ;)
This video is very helpful.
The only steps I would add or change is to make sure you back up your data and settings first and upgrade the firmware to the latest revision before calibrating or purging the system. If you have an older firmware on the Lowrance or NSS Evo2 fish finders, it may not be able to detect the autopilot to be able to move the motor to left and right to do the purging. The fish finder in this video demo may already have been upgraded to the latest revision and the power level already set by a previous VRF calibration, so he was able to make the motors move left and right.
After the firmware is installed and the system is rebooted, you may need to do a VRF calibration first in order to set the power level high enough to move the motors. Our system was not able to move with the left and right arrow without an initial VRF calibration. After the motor moves, you can purge the system per the video by moving it to left and right. If you move to the end of the travel and move the opposite direction, it would help purge the air bubbles trapped in the valves. After it has been purged, you will need to do a final VRF calibration since the first one is to get the motor to function and may be air trapped in the line.
It is also a good practice to wrap electrical tape around the switch wire terminals that you plug together. This will prevent the two terminals from coming apart and help protect it from environment. If you have heat shrink tubing with sealant inside, it would be better way to keep moisture out of the connection. I prefer to cut off the terminals and solder the connections together and use heat shrink tubing with sealant to provide a water tight seal.
If you don't have any available NEMA 2000 ports available on your fish finder since it is connected to another existing terminal block (for sensors, GPS, etc), you may need to interconnect the terminal blocks with a cable instead. You will need to remove the dummy load at the end of the old terminal and use a cable to interconnect the new block. An alternative method is to leave the dummy loads in place at the ends and use an empty port to interconnect the two blocks.
Note:
The orb fittings in the kit only works for the Baystar/SeaStar helms and not the Protech Uflex helms (UP28F). The SeaStar helms has a -5 sized orb fitting. Uflex helms use -6 sized orb fittings. The "T" fitting that comes in the kit will not fit for left and right ports. However, the center return port is a -5 orb fitting on the Uflex helm, so you can use the right angle fittings that come in the kit. I ended up getting a 6405-06-04 adapter (-6 male orb to 1/4 female NPT) and used the brass "T" fitting to be able to install the system. I have not found a -6 orb stainless "T" fitting that has the orb interface at the end similar to the one in the kit. I also had to buy a set of SeaStar HF6009 straight orb fitting since the kit does not have a set of straight orb. The right angle connector was causing the hose to kink in my helm.
For an electronics manufacturer to do a “how to” video I would suggest you clean up all the original wiring. No heat shrink connectors loose wiring. A novice will see that and think it’s ok and than wonder in a year why everything is corroded and doesn’t work.
Great video and essential for my install a year ago. I can't find my install manual so I was looking for the specified hole size to drill for the quick disconnect button now that I know where I want it. It would have been helpful for you to mention the bit size in the video. For information, my situation required a pump install at 45 degrees rather than horizontal or vertical-up and it has worked fine - so far. In addition, the phone support I got from Lowrance/Navico was outstanding.
Perfect demo. Cant do anything wrong after watching this video. Thanks.
Nice video, well produced!
Very informative, however a few things could be problematic. The pump is installed upside down. In the event of a simple shaft seal leak, you will have fluid leaking onto the electric motor. The pump should be installed with the motor up and the hydraulic hoses down so a leak won’t ruin your motor. Also, never install electronics on the floor or ground to better avoid water intrusion. Finally, you installed a N2k power T onto the network and one is already marked and installed in the network. Unless you are blocking power or the network is separate, this won’t work.
The video is full of good info, but guys, its NOT a music video, its a tech support video. Please remember that little fact when you are doing the editing.
The instructions say:
The pump unit should be mounted horizontally, with the pipe connections/fittings pointing upwards. Use a 90° bracket if mounted on a bulkhead. It could however be mounted directly on a bulkhead, but never with the motor pointing downwards, as oil leak/sweating from a poor shaft seal can easily penetrate the motor and destroy it.
The push button is not a sealed switch. I was out in the rain one time and the AP was engaging on its own due to water intrusion in the switch. Spend the money on a separate sealed switch.
i have a 5.0 mercury inboard with a gen 3 lowrance unit can it be done is so what model?
On the hydraulic T connection does it matter which goes to the pump or which goes to the steering ram? I connected it the other way bc the cable was short in my application location and i had the extra play in my original lines.
Love the info, the music hurts my ears even when turned down.
Would it run properly with Volvo Penta D4 inboard engine with power steering?
Hi Mr.Jacob Scott …
Please share me the part number of this autopilot kit
Hi,where I have to instal the non return valve on the steering gear please
hi great video, when i set mine up i have an issue: during the calibration both my outboards are set like explained and max port and starboard is set. when i go to sea and test it the autopilot will only turn motors partially to port and centre, not at all to starboard>? any help or tips that can be given?
It sounds something is wrong, you should redo the calibration. Please contact our service department at 800-628-4487 and ask for a T2.
When you put the GPS antenna on the t top and then opened up your 'access panel' it did not look like their was going to be enough room in that hole to snake the end of the lowrance cable down. How did you or would you get around that? Can you cut the lowrance cable and splice the wires back on to the end?
$3 a bottle trans fluid or $30 a bottle teleflex oil?
Great video. How or where do I connect power from the NAC and pump?
Hi THe pump is plugged into the NAC unit The NAC unit has a power cord that you connect to 12 VDC. Most vessels will have a terminal block under the helm you can use to tap into the 12VDC. Always ensure the unit is protected with the appropriate size fuse or circuit breaker.
Thanks very much for this video
Thank you for watching it and appreciating it.
Very well explained 👍don’t need the screatchy music though 👍
very much informative, practical. Could have shown trails.
Well done, great job!
Will this work with a RayMarine chart display?
I have the cable steer and just installed I find my point 1 in my network but I do not find anything for the nac-1. This is on a hds-9 carbon with the newest update. Where do I go from here??
Hi,
There are a few things to check. The obvious things first. Check that the Nac1 is getting power, the N2K connection is secure. and the autopilot option is selected in features. Go to the home page then advanced and then features. Scroll to the autopilot and check the box. Next go to network and select auto configure. Then check the sources and see if the Nac1 shows. If it does not try moving the N2K connection to the backbone to another drop port. Check to ensure the N2K backbone is properly terminated. It must have a terminating resister at each end. If none of the above works try resetting the display by performing a restore defaults from the system page. Make certain you have backed up any waypoints routes or trails on to an SD card prior to restoring defaults
This will work with Carbon nor just gen 3 correct.
Yes, this will work with Carbon, too.
Has anyone done one with the cable steer
You hook up 3 cable to NMEA tees what happen to the fourt cable ?
We had only 3 devices to hook onto the network.
Yikes! I wouldn't mount any electronics on the floor. Remember this is a boat and things on the floor get wet especially during cleanup. Also I noticed that you were using a cordless drill but had the clutch setting all the way tight. Good way to break things. No need to add a complete new stand alone neama 2000 just add another T.
Right! Mount the pump on the floor and put both black boxes on the wall. Also use something like puppy training pads to catch all the oil.
If I already have a Point-1 antenna for my radar do I need another for the Auto Pilot?
Excellent!
Getting ready to install the Outboard Pilot and a Simrad GO9 XSE and have 3 questions after viewing this excellent video.
Can you please advise why a separate N2K network backbone was created for the autopilot installation versus extending the existing backbone? I was planning on having only one backbone.
Why was there no 3 amp fuse on the autopilot's N2K network power cable? The fuse is shown on Fig 9 the installation wiring diagram.
The autopilot N2K network and the NAC-1 were both powered from the same bus in the video.
However, my Simrad install manual on p.28 has a specific Note "Do not connect the NMEA 2000 power cable to the same terminals as........, autopilot computer, .........or other high current devices."
Does this Note only apply to Simrad GO XSE units, or only to NAC-2 & 3 autopilots but not the NAC-1?
Oleg, Thank you for your questions and I will answer these for you.
1. At the 2:00 minute mark of the video, It is explained that if you already have a NMEA 2000 network in the boat, you can just connect to the existing network. It is then explained we were going to install this as a brand new install that did not have an existing NMEA 2000 network on the boat.
2. If you look at the video again, at the 6:15 minute mark in the video, you can see the fuse on the power cable in front of his hand.
3. Many Simrad networks are on boat using 24v power. You do not want the NMEA 2000 network connected to 24v power. The power for a NMEA 2000 network, should be connected to 12v and it's own terminal post.
Bay star are not pressurized,it's hydrolic system u turn an it pushed fluid
Ok
Yep Improper way to bleed ya steering
That clear hose is a joke
Its just a feed line dude, no pressure.
@@ZeeCaptainRon i know low psi, but mine got all check cracks and started leeking
I have 12 HDS Live, Point-1 and SeaStart Teleflex steering with BA-150 cylinder that has 10.2 ci capacity. I have rudders though not outboards. Would this autopilot work for this set up?