I have a 2000 Yamaha 130 and was getting an overheat alarm. Did the usual impeller, thermostats, poppit, etc. and was still getting the alarm. I tried Rydlyme and worked great. Removed lower unit, 120 volt sump pump in a 5 gallon bucket with a hose going from the pump which was submerged in a one to one mixture direct to the inlet. Ran for a few hours, incredible amount of debris removed. Flushed with fresh water like crazy and it's been good ever since, this was three years ago.
you should probalby do it every year. The same thing happened to me 2004 Yamaha 150, but I cleaned it manually, I didn't know about this procedure. But I plan to do it every year from now on.
This stuff really does work great. I can not count how many people come to me with temp alarms going off. Its usually a stuck poppet valve (some people aren't even aware of the poppet, hidden most times) or salted up water jacket and Rydlyme nearly always fixes it. I will cut the bottom off of a trash bag and tape it around the bottom of the upper unit and let it drain down into the bucket, you'll lose very little liquid like that. Nice video, long live 2 strokes
I did this about a month ago on my Yamaha V4 130 Saltwater series. Beforehand, I'd done a brand new impeller etc. Ran beaut until a few boating sessions and it threw an overheat alarm. I did toss up trying vinegar combined with Saltaway, or CLR, but the proven results from Rydlyme was too hard to ignore. I flushed from 12pm until 8pm using an 1100gph bilge pump in a big plastic tub. So much crud came out. My motor hasn't missed a beat since. The pee stream is stronger, it's had sustained high RPM and does not give an ounce of trouble. I even made a small video about it which is on my own TH-cam channel. For those on the fence, I was too. I'll just incorporate a Rydlyme flush as part of my annual maintenance now.
Just flushed my outboard this way 2 weeks ago. I had a bottle of rydlyme and a friend talked me into doing straight vinegar. Flushed out alot of salt and sand. I just used an old bilge pump and some hose i had on hand. I had similar results, the flush leaving behind loose calcium. Glad to hear your input on the product
I remember Greg Taylor (hope I remember his name correctly--he was the retired Marine) from MMI telling us that we could use muriatic acid for about 10 minutes or vinegar overnight.
Just used it for the first time too, on a 2001 yamaha 225 ox66. I was completely amazed at the results. I used a Rubbermaid storage bin instead of a bucket, works great.
Heavily diluted Hydrochloric/muriatic (pool) acid with a 12v caravan water pump also works. As stated above, it is more about soak time to dissolve calcium/mineral (shell) deposits. Great video!
I did 2 X 2006 Suzuki that had no overheating issue and are fresh water rinsed (running long enough to have the block at temperature) after every outing and the crap that came out was very satisfying. i used the cheaper version galley (restaurant) which does not say envo friendly as the Marine one you used. There's a video somewhere of a guy explaining how to measure the PH of the mixture going in and compare with PH coming out in order to see if there is still chemical reaction happening which tells if there is still calcium and salt build up in the motor. Works great. no dismantling, no scrapping with a metal tool that damages the paint. thanks
What I have learned about rydlyme is that it will be neutralized faster if you have a lot of buildup. You can put a tums tablet in the bucket and if it doesn’t bubble the solution is done. Some engines might need two treatments. I use two gallons rudlyme with two gallons of water in a cooler because it’s rectangular and catches the water better.
Just FYI. With the rydlime product the ability to clean is a function of acid strength not necessarily time. And the product breaks down as it works. So testing the PH is key. Also I used a 1:10 dilution of mutates acid. And that works really well too. Changing the solution at least once would clean things even better.
I flushed with diluted muriatic acid bought at home store. It works as well. Ensure you cycle through a neutralizer and/or clean water after the fact. Taps on the head and side cover with a rubber mallet came help dislodge that crud too while you are flushing it.
Almost the same process I use, only thing different is after first hour I just block off the pee tube but if you can route it back to the bucket why not. May have missed it but for others that do this process make sure you remove the thermostat prior to flushing
You cannot kill a 90hp Yamaha. If you maintain it. I relentlessly tried. I bought a new 1986 and installed it on my 1977 17ft Gradey White Sprint walk through, then put 8 years and 5800 hours of long hauls and abusive throttle slamming practicing for AWSA D2 slalom tournaments and running out to Orient point, Ambrose light and other offshore destinations from Manhasset Bay Long Island north shore. 😂. Fred, owner of Arrow marine offered me a huge wage, 4x my top machinist income if I would just do new engine swap installations after he saw mine. I swapped my seized 70hp 1977 Evinrude, installed my new engine, guages, harness and a custom teak control box mount, then called Arrow for the warranty 1st engine start 24 hours after I left Arrow marine. I was soo excited to install it and go ski that I couldn't sleep😂 Yama-ha-ha-ha!
Hello, this product is really very good. I used it on my engines about a year ago. Here in Brazil it is not sold in small quantities, a friend who works in the industry gave me a gallon. In industry it is widely used for cleaning large heat exchangers.
I used this on a 1994 200hp Yamaha Saltwater Series outboard. The crap that came out of that thing was insane. It did flush out a lot of fine shell and sand.
Rydlyme works really well. Be prepared to have your heart ripped out when you discover big holes in your engine. My old 2002 Yamaha 250 2-stroke didn't have a great pee stream and we flushed it for 6 hours with Rydlyme. Well, all the crap came out and it peed just fine after that, but it exposed a gigantic hole in the block that was previously being redirected by the clog so the top of the block/jacket could still get water. RIP.
I did my yammi f200 after 600 hrs definitely it worked I used to flush it before at idling and after 10 minutes I would get the over heat alarm go off after rydlyme no alarm and my tail pipe flows non stop 🇦🇺
Cool product. $300 is pricey and 75% of that price might be the pump. it sure did a great job though. I recently restored a 1988 Yamaha 2 stroke and pulled the same covers. I actually used Lime Away toilet cleaner, as it's a mild acid and actually super cheap to buy. I used an old paint brush and other small brushes to manually scrub the Lime Away product and it worked well... in the spots I could reach. An acid flush will always do better and get in all of the areas you can't manually reach. Plus, the labor you can save by flushing rather than manually brushing, can make the $300 kit pay for itself, especially for a marine mechanic.
I may have missed it in this series, but is this a customer’s boat or is this a personal project? I have a 2006 1720 with an Etec that I have been religiously flushing with salt off for the past 7 years after every single use. Did my thermostat a few weeks back and it was spotless inside. Either way enjoying the content. Thanks.
I do this every 500 hour service on my outboard. I use a bigger submersible pump. The one in the kit just doesn’t move the water fast enough. I pull all anodes and t stat also.
I have a mid 90’s Evinrude 115 v4 that was giving intermittent overheat warnings even after a complete new water pump unit. Based in South Africa, so Rydlyme not an option here. I bought a 5L commercial lime scale remover (mostly citric acid) and diluted 1:1 with water. In addition to pumping the solution through the engine, I also heated the solution to 60 deg C. Used a temperature controller and submersible heating element. Circulated the heated solution for approx 4 hours. Salt solubility increases dramatically with temperature, so I’m sure this would also improve the results when you use the Rydlyme. Engine now runs cooler than it ever has in my ownership!
Your method could be helpful for others facing similar issues, especially if they're in areas where specialized products like Rydlyme might not be readily available. Thanks!
Rydlyme is simply 5-9% hydrochloric acid. $40/gallon retail....😂 You can make the same concentration for less than $3/gallon! Can be bought at any hardware store/pool supply.
Hello Brother!! Blessings to you!! I love your channel and I have learned many great tips on maintaining and fixing things on my boat!! Thank you!!! Question: If my engine is running normally should I run this product through it as rinsing after a day on the water?? Thank you! God bless you
Thank you! No, I wouldn't, use something like Salt Away: amzn.to/4cQYQ2Q Rydlyme is more for cleaning build up and clogs, not for preventative maintenance :) it's for those that passed on the preventative part ;)
Interesting. In these situations, I have always used vinegar. You can buy it by the gallon for $2 each. I use a pump like that one and also a wide basin under the motor to catch the vinegar. Run and then let soak and repeat a few times. I notice you are snapping bolts like there's a prize for it. If i have to remove exhaust, water jack, or head i remove the powerhead first so i can hit those bottom bolts with a quarter inch impact. Less snappy that way. 😉
Another top notch video brother. Got a 2004 Yamaha F90 with 350 hrs fresh water use but in a real dark lake with lots of sediment. Think it might be time for a flush like this. BTW - what’s the life span of thermostats on these motors?
Great video however, you need to keep this up. You have the ability and the resources to clean multiple engines. There are multiple products and even home remedies that claim to do the same thing. Maybe do more videos along this thread with Starbright version and other products such to see if there is a difference compare and contrast. Including the difference of pumps, I’ve heard people complaining about the pump that comes with this kit and I’m curious if you can get an electric plug-in that would do a better job. The easiest solution people have said is bilge pump. Great content 👍
For a Yamaha 70HP 3CYL 2STROKE (that I just happen to be working on atm) - remove thermostatFlush with Saltaway or Hydroclorid acid in a 5-7% solution (there are no inhibitors in Rydlyme - pure marketing of poolacid) or any other cleaning agent of choice that will break down organics and not be too hard on the metal. But regardless, I'd afterwards do a manual gentle clean with a nylon brush and scraper and at the same time change all gaskets on both powerhead and waterhousing - and of course a new thermostat. But no matter what you use, the metal will be affected over time. No if ands or buts. However it beats a seized up motor any day. I have fixed this on outboards for two decades
Bear in mind the acidic strength of the solution will die rapidly at first then slowly then not. No point running 2 hours if the strength faded to zip after 30 mins. Test the acidic strength as the process happens especially if you know the buildup is bad like yours. Use fresh HCl (dilute) to rebuild power.
I've never thought about flushing the cooling system...is this only for engines used in salt water or for all engines? I have an '06 Yamaha 50, 2 cycle. Thanks. Great content!
Salt water for sure, but for fresh water it depends on the mineral content. Next time you change your thermostat, look carefully to see if you have any buildup starting. If you're in good fresh water then you probably have little or no buildup, in which case this is not needed. But if you can see mineral buildup starting then maybe it's worth a try.
For more severe buildup the acids may dilute or convert to a basic solution and become neutral a bit more rapidly. If it aint due for overhaul a second flush would be well worth the money. I understand he was just doing a hands off product review but if you're pulling heads and jacket covers id also recommend brushing and agitation and a pre rinse with contact cleaner or a spray bottle of water (do not use chlorinated cleaner, especially if youre about to expose it to another chemical, may produce phosgene gas or other noxious fumes or corrosive and caustic agents) prior to flushing. Possibly even poke a pick through smaller passages. Basically just get all the big chunks out so the product can work more effectively on the real hard stuff and to keep things from plugging up. Worst case scenario flush it out with contact cleaner after youve flushed with fresh water to prevent a reaction.
Wow I’ve been thinking about something like this for ages now thought about running vinegar in a bucket or what we call “allybright” alloy cleaning product through the system to flush it out proper I wonder can I get it in Australia
I believe it's supposed to be buffered, so the acid doesn't attack the metal itself as aggressively. But I don't have time to research that, if anyone does please post here. Does the SDS list anything about the buffering agents?
@@robbiek5oh probably phosphoric acid or something akin to metal prep because of sacrificial corrosion and pitting exposing new material to an electrolyte. Dont have the memory to check the PDF on the msds of metal prep, iirc the formula was 49 or 79. Any MSDS i search only comes up as a PDF file i have to download unfortunately. The worst thing for aluminum or magnesium is to remove corrosion and leave it untreated. Looks good until its powdered over in a few days again lol.
Sometimes it is packed sand around the bottom cylinder that has settled out and become like concrete. Usually preceded by customer's story of getting caught on a sandbar and using the engine to power off of it until it overheated. The suspended sand has no way to get out of the engine once switched off. Repetive instances of this over time build layer upon layer in the water jacket under the bottom cylinder. The worst instance I've seen was a Suzuki four stroke that ended up with a corrosion hole through the water passage into the oil sump ...started getting water in the oil. Had to disassemble the power head and have a golf ball size hole tig welded under the bottom cylinder. Probably not worth the money spent but that's what he wanted to do when presented with the option.
I don't why but I have taken from my 5hp. To 150hp. And none have looked like that. But I was out about 200+days a year Tampa Bay saltwater. And yep did my own work. Got a new 115 powerhead and it blew up rebuilt it and ran it for another couple years and sold it.
I have a 4 stroke in fresh water. I'm assuming these should be flush too. I'm going to change the water impeller this spring anyway, so I think I'm going to do this too.
I have people give me outboards that are totally plugged and they can’t get them to pee. I use vinegar and dawn, run them to temp, let them sit, sometimes blow compressed air into the pee jet, run and let sit for about three days. My barrel gets a lot of sediment, flush it well. No need to let it run for hrs, soak time is important.
Appreciate the valuable information. Question from another previous video, you mentioned using salt away lets you be lazy in the flushing department. If I use my Boat every day of the week, would I only have to flush a couple of times with salt away instead of each and every day? I have a 2018 Yamaha 60 four stroke and can only use the flush port (can’t use muffs because it lives on the water). Thank you from Australia!
Hey Fellow Aussie. I don't use my boat every day, but each time I use it, I use Saltaway immediately after running while the engine is still warm. I've used the Rydlyme for a full flush to get the gunk out, but that's now once yearly maintenance. To answer your question, I'd probably flush it with Saltaway every time it was used to prevent buildup, but if you use it every day, you're gonna go through a lot of Saltaway. In my opinion, it almost might be better using Rydlyme to get all the built-up crap out of your motor, and then occasionally use Saltaway.
@@jrbuch thanks mate, I’ve been flushing religiously every day with water. Jumping on and off the jetty half a dozen times connecting and disconnecting ports and hoses takes a huge chunk of time. I think Rydlyme once a year is a great idea. And salt away once a week would be good too
What would this look like on a merc 2 stroke that has only ever been operated in freshwater? Would you recommend inspection / flushing or not really necessary? Is that all salt or does sand and muck naturally get in that debris as well?
Well, always depends on what kind of water it has been run in, but yes, different types of growth come from all kinds of waters, not just salt, just looking in the thermostat or when you have the lower off is a good way of inspecting, if there is a lot of growth there, then there will be everywhere else :)
I use my mercury outboard in salt water, trailer my boat and flush with fresh water after I pull it after every use. Under these circumstances I shouldn’t have a use for this, just asking because I don’t plan on pulling my covers to inspect… just seeing this gets me wondering lol.
Still pretty new to boating, but if you chose to open up the motor like you did would it make sense to spray it out with hot water or a pressure washer carefully?
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Would it help to put a screen over the bucket to catch the crap so your not pumping crap back through the system? Obviously the screen couldn't provide full coverage but one could catch a ton of it.
@@BornAgainBoating I had to look that up and see if there was one incase I missed on the lower I just rebuilt. On my 94/115 there isn't a screen. There is: YAMAHA OEM WATER INLET COVER 688-45214-02-00. I guess one might call it a screen but it would let some pretty big particles get by. I just figured i wouldn't want to put stuff I was trying to remove back in the motor. 😁I like your videos and have used your instructions several times now. Thanks.
Depending on what type of water you run in, is it brackish or mineral rich or dirty, if so yes, you should flush out the engine with some fresh water to get rid of the mineral deposits.
@@BornAgainBoating Okay awesome, thank you! I mainly only use it on Lake St. Clair (Southeast Michigan) pretty clear water in most areas. I do have a fish measuring tape sticker on my boat from previous owner(s) that says Lake Okeechobee though lol probably wouldn’t hurt to do a flush! Thanks so much for your videos they really help! First time boat owner so have been learning a lot over the years for these videos.
Excellent! Do you think it's necessary to take the plates off for inspection & additional cleaning or was that just for the video? Also, I plan on replacing my tstat. Do think it would help or hurt if I remove it prior to doing this flush?
Yeah, remove your thermostats prior to flushing. I made a video of Rydlyme flushing too after doing plenty of research and watching other vids. I didn't take my water jackets off or open the motor up to look inside, other than the stats, but so far my motor hasn't given an ounce of trouble since flushing.
Never tried it on an I/O but they use it a lot on heat exchangers all the time, and I'm guessing yours doesn't have closed loop cooling :/ idk what it does to rubber impellers :/
would there be any danger in running this without taking the leg off? Just submerge the leg and prop shaft in the bucket. Asking because the shop couldnt get my leg off, so maybe its got too much crud inside. Motor overheats on running but has been improving with use and flushing with fresh water. Used to get only 5 minutes of run time, now getting 14 minutes before it fades away.
❤❤Thank you very much, my brother, for this distinguished and good work. May God reward you for it. You provide something special that we can benefit from. Thank you very much.
Rydlyme is great stuff. Do you have any tips on removing head bolts on an older 2 stroke. I do not believe they have ever been removed and I do not want to break one. Thanks.
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No, need to have it all come out the exhaust and no have the waterpump restricting it as well, not that the waterpump has anything to do with the flushfitting, just for the junk that comes out
If you live in the north, not as quickly, in the south, eventually, yes, it will happen WAY slower to engines that are flushed regularly, but if no flushing, it will happen a lot quicker, but regardless, this type of thing will happen either way regardless of flushing. It's just a by product of running raw water with minerals,salt, and deposits through the engine :/
Agree, but that's my own personal experience too. I used an 1100gph pump, but people say pond pumps work well - I saw one advertised that was around 2500gph. If I were to do it again, I'd pick up one of these and it might go higher up into the motor, getting those hard to reach spots.
The 2005 yamaha 2stroke has the top garden hose arrachment for flushing which replaces the need for earmuffs Iwonder if the pump attached to this "top flush" hose is enough , rather than pumping it from below? I havent lloked up the complete circulation thingy yet ...but it will definitely hit the moor cooling where the money is ?
The top connection does not replace the ear muff this is only for back flushing when the motor is not running! If you run your motor through that the water pump is getting zero water and you will fry your impeller
Thinking about buy this used power head thats been running in some salt water i can see some corrosion but the seller assure me it was running when took out do you guys think this will help?? Its a big ebay seller too not private
Well this will clean out the cooling system for sure! But depends on the engine make and model too, but with the power head off, you should be able to see or get pictures of the powerhead from underneath so you can see up into the exhaust system and other water passages to look for corrosion. Sounds like once you buy it you own it :/ but if it was running and you know the hours, etc. on the engine, should be good to go :)
I inherited a 1991 Key West 1700 Sportsman with a 1991 Yamaha 90hp outboard and from what I can tell, the bolts still have factory paint on them which leads me to believe it's never been opened. The first time I put it on the water it overheated, so I flushed it and changed the thermostat. I broke 1 of the 4 thermostat cover bolts off and then while trying to extract the broken bolt I broke the carbon steel extractor off in the bolt. Now I can't retap the bolt to try to use another extractor. How do you get broken bolts out? Any suggestions in my case?
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There are lots of postings about using a diamond coated hole saw/bit. I had to do this on my 5.7l merc, then drill oversize and use a helicoil kit to get threads.
Worried about exposing a hole. Is there anywhere on the block that could have a hole that you would not be able to see by taking head and all covers off?
I can tell you that Saltaway won't work as well as Rydlyme (Having used both) not sure about Salt off. As for Murating acid, it does work or at least what I've observed. It's a fair whack cheaper that Rydlyme, but you have to be careful with handling it, ensuring you use gloves.
Un depósito de 200 litros cortado a altura llegue el agua a aspiración de bomba agua motor, echar 15 litros o 20 de vinagre y el resto hasta nivel de agua, arrancar motor hasta caliente el agua, y enjuagar con agua dulce
I have a 2000 Yamaha 130 and was getting an overheat alarm. Did the usual impeller, thermostats, poppit, etc. and was still getting the alarm. I tried Rydlyme and worked great. Removed lower unit, 120 volt sump pump in a 5 gallon bucket with a hose going from the pump which was submerged in a one to one mixture direct to the inlet. Ran for a few hours, incredible amount of debris removed. Flushed with fresh water like crazy and it's been good ever since, this was three years ago.
you should probalby do it every year. The same thing happened to me 2004 Yamaha 150, but I cleaned it manually, I didn't know about this procedure. But I plan to do it every year from now on.
This stuff really does work great. I can not count how many people come to me with temp alarms going off. Its usually a stuck poppet valve (some people aren't even aware of the poppet, hidden most times) or salted up water jacket and Rydlyme nearly always fixes it. I will cut the bottom off of a trash bag and tape it around the bottom of the upper unit and let it drain down into the bucket, you'll lose very little liquid like that. Nice video, long live 2 strokes
I did this about a month ago on my Yamaha V4 130 Saltwater series. Beforehand, I'd done a brand new impeller etc. Ran beaut until a few boating sessions and it threw an overheat alarm.
I did toss up trying vinegar combined with Saltaway, or CLR, but the proven results from Rydlyme was too hard to ignore. I flushed from 12pm until 8pm using an 1100gph bilge pump in a big plastic tub. So much crud came out. My motor hasn't missed a beat since. The pee stream is stronger, it's had sustained high RPM and does not give an ounce of trouble.
I even made a small video about it which is on my own TH-cam channel.
For those on the fence, I was too. I'll just incorporate a Rydlyme flush as part of my annual maintenance now.
40 years as a marine mechanic I have been using this for years. Great stuff.
Just flushed my outboard this way 2 weeks ago. I had a bottle of rydlyme and a friend talked me into doing straight vinegar. Flushed out alot of salt and sand. I just used an old bilge pump and some hose i had on hand. I had similar results, the flush leaving behind loose calcium. Glad to hear your input on the product
I remember Greg Taylor (hope I remember his name correctly--he was the retired Marine) from MMI telling us that we could use muriatic acid for about 10 minutes or vinegar overnight.
Just used it for the first time too, on a 2001 yamaha 225 ox66. I was completely amazed at the results. I used a Rubbermaid storage bin instead of a bucket, works great.
Great to hear!
Did you pull it apart to check?
Heavily diluted Hydrochloric/muriatic (pool) acid with a 12v caravan water pump also works. As stated above, it is more about soak time to dissolve calcium/mineral (shell) deposits. Great video!
You are correct, any weak acid solution works, but some people cannot believe it, they must spend big $$$ on smurf urine.
I did 2 X 2006 Suzuki that had no overheating issue and are fresh water rinsed (running long enough to have the block at temperature) after every outing and the crap that came out was very satisfying. i used the cheaper version galley (restaurant) which does not say envo friendly as the Marine one you used. There's a video somewhere of a guy explaining how to measure the PH of the mixture going in and compare with PH coming out in order to see if there is still chemical reaction happening which tells if there is still calcium and salt build up in the motor. Works great. no dismantling, no scrapping with a metal tool that damages the paint. thanks
What I have learned about rydlyme is that it will be neutralized faster if you have a lot of buildup. You can put a tums tablet in the bucket and if it doesn’t bubble the solution is done. Some engines might need two treatments.
I use two gallons rudlyme with two gallons of water in a cooler because it’s rectangular and catches the water better.
Just FYI. With the rydlime product the ability to clean is a function of acid strength not necessarily time. And the product breaks down as it works. So testing the PH is key. Also I used a 1:10 dilution of mutates acid. And that works really well too. Changing the solution at least once would clean things even better.
I flushed with diluted muriatic acid bought at home store. It works as well. Ensure you cycle through a neutralizer and/or clean water after the fact. Taps on the head and side cover with a rubber mallet came help dislodge that crud too while you are flushing it.
How much mutatic acid ratio did u use
Almost the same process I use, only thing different is after first hour I just block off the pee tube but if you can route it back to the bucket why not. May have missed it but for others that do this process make sure you remove the thermostat prior to flushing
You cannot kill a 90hp Yamaha. If you maintain it. I relentlessly tried. I bought a new 1986 and installed it on my 1977 17ft Gradey White Sprint walk through, then put 8 years and 5800 hours of long hauls and abusive throttle slamming practicing for AWSA D2 slalom tournaments and running out to Orient point, Ambrose light and other offshore destinations from Manhasset Bay Long Island north shore. 😂. Fred, owner of Arrow marine offered me a huge wage, 4x my top machinist income if I would just do new engine swap installations after he saw mine. I swapped my seized 70hp 1977 Evinrude, installed my new engine, guages, harness and a custom teak control box mount, then called Arrow for the warranty 1st engine start 24 hours after I left Arrow marine. I was soo excited to install it and go ski that I couldn't sleep😂 Yama-ha-ha-ha!
I used barnacle buster on a 1999 70hp Johnson before rebuild. Worked fantastic
Wish I had seen this before I put my boat in this season. Guess this will be my mid-season haul project
Hello, this product is really very good. I used it on my engines about a year ago. Here in Brazil it is not sold in small quantities, a friend who works in the industry gave me a gallon.
In industry it is widely used for cleaning large heat exchangers.
Thanks for sharing
I used this on a 1994 200hp Yamaha Saltwater Series outboard. The crap that came out of that thing was insane. It did flush out a lot of fine shell and sand.
Rydlyme works really well. Be prepared to have your heart ripped out when you discover big holes in your engine. My old 2002 Yamaha 250 2-stroke didn't have a great pee stream and we flushed it for 6 hours with Rydlyme. Well, all the crap came out and it peed just fine after that, but it exposed a gigantic hole in the block that was previously being redirected by the clog so the top of the block/jacket could still get water. RIP.
I did my yammi f200 after 600 hrs definitely it worked I used to flush it before at idling and after 10 minutes I would get the over heat alarm go off after rydlyme no alarm and my tail pipe flows non stop
🇦🇺
Cool product. $300 is pricey and 75% of that price might be the pump. it sure did a great job though. I recently restored a 1988 Yamaha 2 stroke and pulled the same covers. I actually used Lime Away toilet cleaner, as it's a mild acid and actually super cheap to buy. I used an old paint brush and other small brushes to manually scrub the Lime Away product and it worked well... in the spots I could reach. An acid flush will always do better and get in all of the areas you can't manually reach. Plus, the labor you can save by flushing rather than manually brushing, can make the $300 kit pay for itself, especially for a marine mechanic.
I may have missed it in this series, but is this a customer’s boat or is this a personal project? I have a 2006 1720 with an Etec that I have been religiously flushing with salt off for the past 7 years after every single use. Did my thermostat a few weeks back and it was spotless inside. Either way enjoying the content. Thanks.
I do this every 500 hour service on my outboard. I use a bigger submersible pump. The one in the kit just doesn’t move the water fast enough. I pull all anodes and t stat also.
I have a mid 90’s Evinrude 115 v4 that was giving intermittent overheat warnings even after a complete new water pump unit. Based in South Africa, so Rydlyme not an option here. I bought a 5L commercial lime scale remover (mostly citric acid) and diluted 1:1 with water. In addition to pumping the solution through the engine, I also heated the solution to 60 deg C. Used a temperature controller and submersible heating element. Circulated the heated solution for approx 4 hours. Salt solubility increases dramatically with temperature, so I’m sure this would also improve the results when you use the Rydlyme. Engine now runs cooler than it ever has in my ownership!
Your method could be helpful for others facing similar issues, especially if they're in areas where specialized products like Rydlyme might not be readily available. Thanks!
Rydlyme is simply 5-9% hydrochloric acid. $40/gallon retail....😂 You can make the same concentration for less than $3/gallon! Can be bought at any hardware store/pool supply.
Hydrochloric acid corrodes metals such as aluminum. As such, there is a need to use inhibitors for retardation of the metal dissolution process
@@prepsDK There are no inhibitors listed in the Rydlyme SDS. It is simply a 5-9% aqueous solution of Hydrochloric Acid.
I flush for 10 - 15 after every run, for 2 motors over 20 years, never had a problem
Hello Brother!! Blessings to you!! I love your channel and I have learned many great tips on maintaining and fixing things on my boat!! Thank you!!!
Question: If my engine is running normally should I run this product through it as rinsing after a day on the water??
Thank you!
God bless you
Thank you! No, I wouldn't, use something like Salt Away: amzn.to/4cQYQ2Q
Rydlyme is more for cleaning build up and clogs, not for preventative maintenance :) it's for those that passed on the preventative part ;)
Interesting. In these situations, I have always used vinegar. You can buy it by the gallon for $2 each. I use a pump like that one and also a wide basin under the motor to catch the vinegar. Run and then let soak and repeat a few times.
I notice you are snapping bolts like there's a prize for it. If i have to remove exhaust, water jack, or head i remove the powerhead first so i can hit those bottom bolts with a quarter inch impact. Less snappy that way. 😉
Another top notch video brother. Got a 2004 Yamaha F90 with 350 hrs fresh water use but in a real dark lake with lots of sediment. Think it might be time for a flush like this. BTW - what’s the life span of thermostats on these motors?
Great video however, you need to keep this up. You have the ability and the resources to clean multiple engines. There are multiple products and even home remedies that claim to do the same thing. Maybe do more videos along this thread with Starbright version and other products such to see if there is a difference compare and contrast. Including the difference of pumps, I’ve heard people complaining about the pump that comes with this kit and I’m curious if you can get an electric plug-in that would do a better job. The easiest solution people have said is bilge pump. Great content 👍
Noted bro.
For a Yamaha 70HP 3CYL 2STROKE (that I just happen to be working on atm) - remove thermostatFlush with Saltaway or Hydroclorid acid in a 5-7% solution (there are no inhibitors in Rydlyme - pure marketing of poolacid) or any other cleaning agent of choice that will break down organics and not be too hard on the metal. But regardless, I'd afterwards do a manual gentle clean with a nylon brush and scraper and at the same time change all gaskets on both powerhead and waterhousing - and of course a new thermostat. But no matter what you use, the metal will be affected over time. No if ands or buts. However it beats a seized up motor any day. I have fixed this on outboards for two decades
I’m shocked! I’m sold. They should sponsor you.
I've used this method before works great!!!! Next time use distilled water it doesn't have any minerals in it.
Great tip!
Does boiling work
Did you pull thermostat and water pressure valves prior to the flush procedure?
Can you flush the motor with that solution or will it damage something inside
Bear in mind the acidic strength of the solution will die rapidly at first then slowly then not. No point running 2 hours if the strength faded to zip after 30 mins. Test the acidic strength as the process happens especially if you know the buildup is bad like yours. Use fresh HCl (dilute) to rebuild power.
I've never thought about flushing the cooling system...is this only for engines used in salt water or for all engines? I have an '06 Yamaha 50, 2 cycle. Thanks. Great content!
Salt water for sure, but for fresh water it depends on the mineral content. Next time you change your thermostat, look carefully to see if you have any buildup starting. If you're in good fresh water then you probably have little or no buildup, in which case this is not needed. But if you can see mineral buildup starting then maybe it's worth a try.
I wonder if the mojo of the chemical goes away quickly and if it would be beneficial and more efficient to replace the Rydlyme at some point.
For more severe buildup the acids may dilute or convert to a basic solution and become neutral a bit more rapidly.
If it aint due for overhaul a second flush would be well worth the money. I understand he was just doing a hands off product review but if you're pulling heads and jacket covers id also recommend brushing and agitation and a pre rinse with contact cleaner or a spray bottle of water (do not use chlorinated cleaner, especially if youre about to expose it to another chemical, may produce phosgene gas or other noxious fumes or corrosive and caustic agents) prior to flushing.
Possibly even poke a pick through smaller passages. Basically just get all the big chunks out so the product can work more effectively on the real hard stuff and to keep things from plugging up.
Worst case scenario flush it out with contact cleaner after youve flushed with fresh water to prevent a reaction.
those small cooling holes were likely not blocked. it would run on the verge of overheating and score skirts quite quickly. unless that happened.
Wow I’ve been thinking about something like this for ages now thought about running vinegar in a bucket or what we call “allybright” alloy cleaning product through the system to flush it out proper
I wonder can I get it in Australia
There are other options, but you should be able to get it there, I really have no idea though lol who am I on international exports lol
Per the SDS, it’s just dilute hydrochloric acid (muriatic)
the secret sauce is the corrosion inhibitor(s)
I believe it's supposed to be buffered, so the acid doesn't attack the metal itself as aggressively. But I don't have time to research that, if anyone does please post here. Does the SDS list anything about the buffering agents?
@@robbiek5oh probably phosphoric acid or something akin to metal prep because of sacrificial corrosion and pitting exposing new material to an electrolyte. Dont have the memory to check the PDF on the msds of metal prep, iirc the formula was 49 or 79.
Any MSDS i search only comes up as a PDF file i have to download unfortunately.
The worst thing for aluminum or magnesium is to remove corrosion and leave it untreated. Looks good until its powdered over in a few days again lol.
Lots of good comments in the threads.
Did you pull the thermostat out before you started flushing the motor with Rydlyme?
Yes
@BornAgainBoating Thank you for the response and the knowledge. It's definitely appreciated!
Wondering if you add ridlyme and vinegar 30%..that has to work even better
Sometimes it is packed sand around the bottom cylinder that has settled out and become like concrete. Usually preceded by customer's story of getting caught on a sandbar and using the engine to power off of it until it overheated. The suspended sand has no way to get out of the engine once switched off. Repetive instances of this over time build layer upon layer in the water jacket under the bottom cylinder. The worst instance I've seen was a Suzuki four stroke that ended up with a corrosion hole through the water passage into the oil sump ...started getting water in the oil. Had to disassemble the power head and have a golf ball size hole tig welded under the bottom cylinder. Probably not worth the money spent but that's what he wanted to do when presented with the option.
I’m glad you didn’t snap bolts usually bolts would snap with heavy build up I’ve had worse come into the shop
i wonder if you could ceracote the flow path for less buildup
That's a great idea but I've never tried it, wonder if there would be a way to do it :/
I don't why but I have taken from my 5hp.
To 150hp. And none have looked like that. But I was out about 200+days a year Tampa Bay saltwater. And yep did my own work. Got a new 115 powerhead and it blew up rebuilt it and ran it for another couple years and sold it.
I have a 4 stroke in fresh water. I'm assuming these should be flush too. I'm going to change the water impeller this spring anyway, so I think I'm going to do this too.
I have people give me outboards that are totally plugged and they can’t get them to pee. I use vinegar and dawn, run them to temp, let them sit, sometimes blow compressed air into the pee jet, run and let sit for about three days. My barrel gets a lot of sediment, flush it well. No need to let it run for hrs, soak time is important.
I wonder how Ballistol would do if you sprayed it in there. We use it on guns and especially corrosive ammo and black powder. Its very effective.
Appreciate the valuable information. Question from another previous video, you mentioned using salt away lets you be lazy in the flushing department. If I use my Boat every day of the week, would I only have to flush a couple of times with salt away instead of each and every day? I have a 2018 Yamaha 60 four stroke and can only use the flush port (can’t use muffs because it lives on the water).
Thank you from Australia!
Hey Fellow Aussie. I don't use my boat every day, but each time I use it, I use Saltaway immediately after running while the engine is still warm.
I've used the Rydlyme for a full flush to get the gunk out, but that's now once yearly maintenance.
To answer your question, I'd probably flush it with Saltaway every time it was used to prevent buildup, but if you use it every day, you're gonna go through a lot of Saltaway. In my opinion, it almost might be better using Rydlyme to get all the built-up crap out of your motor, and then occasionally use Saltaway.
@@jrbuch thanks mate, I’ve been flushing religiously every day with water. Jumping on and off the jetty half a dozen times connecting and disconnecting ports and hoses takes a huge chunk of time. I think Rydlyme once a year is a great idea. And salt away once a week would be good too
What would this look like on a merc 2 stroke that has only ever been operated in freshwater? Would you recommend inspection / flushing or not really necessary? Is that all salt or does sand and muck naturally get in that debris as well?
Well, always depends on what kind of water it has been run in, but yes, different types of growth come from all kinds of waters, not just salt, just looking in the thermostat or when you have the lower off is a good way of inspecting, if there is a lot of growth there, then there will be everywhere else :)
so this combined with yamaha Acc-clean-di-00-internal-eng-clnr-1q would be a pretty good cleanout method for an old motor that needs a good cleanup
I use my mercury outboard in salt water, trailer my boat and flush with fresh water after I pull it after every use. Under these circumstances I shouldn’t have a use for this, just asking because I don’t plan on pulling my covers to inspect… just seeing this gets me wondering lol.
Still pretty new to boating, but if you chose to open up the motor like you did would it make sense to spray it out with hot water or a pressure washer carefully?
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Did you remove the thermostat when flushing the engine ?
Yes
Do you take the thermostats out before flushing with Rydlyme?
Would it help to put a screen over the bucket to catch the crap so your not pumping crap back through the system? Obviously the screen couldn't provide full coverage but one could catch a ton of it.
True, I'm pretty sure there is a screen inside the pump intake, but another filter to get the junk wouldn't be a bad idea :)
@@BornAgainBoating I had to look that up and see if there was one incase I missed on the lower I just rebuilt. On my 94/115 there isn't a screen. There is: YAMAHA OEM WATER INLET COVER 688-45214-02-00. I guess one might call it a screen but it would let some pretty big particles get by. I just figured i wouldn't want to put stuff I was trying to remove back in the motor. 😁I like your videos and have used your instructions several times now. Thanks.
Is that a salt water motor or fresh water motor ?
I have a 1989 Johnson 28 SPL that, as far as my knowledge, has only been ran in freshwater. Would there be a need to flush a freshwater motor?
Depending on what type of water you run in, is it brackish or mineral rich or dirty, if so yes, you should flush out the engine with some fresh water to get rid of the mineral deposits.
@@BornAgainBoating Okay awesome, thank you! I mainly only use it on Lake St. Clair (Southeast Michigan) pretty clear water in most areas. I do have a fish measuring tape sticker on my boat from previous owner(s) that says Lake Okeechobee though lol probably wouldn’t hurt to do a flush! Thanks so much for your videos they really help! First time boat owner so have been learning a lot over the years for these videos.
Seems like they would have an inline filter before the pump to keep from recirculating the grit.
Excellent! Do you think it's necessary to take the plates off for inspection & additional cleaning or was that just for the video?
Also, I plan on replacing my tstat. Do think it would help or hurt if I remove it prior to doing this flush?
Remove your thermostat and anodes before flushing
Yeah, remove your thermostats prior to flushing. I made a video of Rydlyme flushing too after doing plenty of research and watching other vids. I didn't take my water jackets off or open the motor up to look inside, other than the stats, but so far my motor hasn't given an ounce of trouble since flushing.
Can you do this with an I/O and just let it idle in a bucket? would it harm the rubber impeller?
Never tried it on an I/O but they use it a lot on heat exchangers all the time, and I'm guessing yours doesn't have closed loop cooling :/ idk what it does to rubber impellers :/
would there be any danger in running this without taking the leg off? Just submerge the leg and prop shaft in the bucket. Asking because the shop couldnt get my leg off, so maybe its got too much crud inside. Motor overheats on running but has been improving with use and flushing with fresh water. Used to get only 5 minutes of run time, now getting 14 minutes before it fades away.
It won't work the same, you want to be able to push all the junk out and let it come out the exhaust and not in your lower unit :)
i bet ya if u did this and just ran ur boat in some clean water idle (cuz that pump seems to have terrible pressure). it would probs flush it all out
How many GPH is then pump?Have a bilge I could probably use instead of getting the kit.thanks
I think it's an 1800GPH pump
❤❤Thank you very much, my brother, for this distinguished and good work. May God reward you for it. You provide something special that we can benefit from. Thank you very much.
You are very welcome
Most important question. What watch are you wearing ???
Lol. It's a Luninox Navy Seal Blackout.
Rydlyme is great stuff. Do you have any tips on removing head bolts on an older 2 stroke. I do not believe they have ever been removed and I do not want to break one. Thanks.
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If you need to add water use vinegar instead .
Could you use a larger bucket to help with water lose.
How do you know it gets past the thermostat since it’s closed because it’s cold?
Take the thermostats out :)
The Rydlyme doesn't eat up gaskets or rubber etc internally? Also its best to remove your thermostats correct?
Im looking to do this on my 250 Optimax
Me too
Question, could you not of used your hose flush that’s mounted on the front side
No, need to have it all come out the exhaust and no have the waterpump restricting it as well, not that the waterpump has anything to do with the flushfitting, just for the junk that comes out
did you remove thermostats prior to flush?
Amazing,
Finish it with a high pressure washer
I will have to give that stuff a try
does this happen even to motors if flushed after every salt water trip ?
If you live in the north, not as quickly, in the south, eventually, yes, it will happen WAY slower to engines that are flushed regularly, but if no flushing, it will happen a lot quicker, but regardless, this type of thing will happen either way regardless of flushing. It's just a by product of running raw water with minerals,salt, and deposits through the engine :/
How about trien basic CLR from the hardware store ?
I think I would remove impeller unless you are going to replace it when done .
Did I miss something? Do you not work at the marina anymore?
How do you get the flush kit you used?
amzn.to/4dcRHth
Wonder what it does to gaskets and seals?
I feel like a higher HP pump would definitely help.
Agree, but that's my own personal experience too. I used an 1100gph pump, but people say pond pumps work well - I saw one advertised that was around 2500gph. If I were to do it again, I'd pick up one of these and it might go higher up into the motor, getting those hard to reach spots.
The 2005 yamaha 2stroke has the top garden hose arrachment for flushing which replaces the need for earmuffs
Iwonder if the pump attached to this "top flush" hose is enough , rather than pumping it from below?
I havent lloked up the complete circulation thingy yet ...but it will definitely hit the moor cooling where the money is ?
The top connection does not replace the ear muff this is only for back flushing when the motor is not running! If you run your motor through that the water pump is getting zero water and you will fry your impeller
Thinking about buy this used power head thats been running in some salt water i can see some corrosion but the seller assure me it was running when took out do you guys think this will help?? Its a big ebay seller too not private
Well this will clean out the cooling system for sure! But depends on the engine make and model too, but with the power head off, you should be able to see or get pictures of the powerhead from underneath so you can see up into the exhaust system and other water passages to look for corrosion. Sounds like once you buy it you own it :/ but if it was running and you know the hours, etc. on the engine, should be good to go :)
2004 Johnson 140 fuel injected been maintained and everything wish I could send picture but melted the piston and everything
Ya t try hats why I passed third grade , read labels mix my own cleaner save 40 or even 400 from dealt
Can you run that through your impeller can you run it while the motors on
So the engine isn’t running during this flush?
No, and no thermostats in it either
Why didn't you just spray it out with a pressure washer after running the cleaner through it?
I inherited a 1991 Key West 1700 Sportsman with a 1991 Yamaha 90hp outboard and from what I can tell, the bolts still have factory paint on them which leads me to believe it's never been opened. The first time I put it on the water it overheated, so I flushed it and changed the thermostat. I broke 1 of the 4 thermostat cover bolts off and then while trying to extract the broken bolt I broke the carbon steel extractor off in the bolt. Now I can't retap the bolt to try to use another extractor. How do you get broken bolts out? Any suggestions in my case?
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There are lots of postings about using a diamond coated hole saw/bit. I had to do this on my 5.7l merc, then drill oversize and use a helicoil kit to get threads.
Worried about exposing a hole. Is there anywhere on the block that could have a hole that you would not be able to see by taking head and all covers off?
👋Aron do you salt off would do the same and what’s your thought on muratic acid thanks man keep it up buddy👍
I can tell you that Saltaway won't work as well as Rydlyme (Having used both) not sure about Salt off.
As for Murating acid, it does work or at least what I've observed. It's a fair whack cheaper that Rydlyme, but you have to be careful with handling it, ensuring you use gloves.
@@jrbuch thanks for replying ✌️
Un depósito de 200 litros cortado a altura llegue el agua a aspiración de bomba agua motor, echar 15 litros o 20 de vinagre y el resto hasta nivel de agua, arrancar motor hasta caliente el agua, y enjuagar con agua dulce
"Defnuhly" is not a word.
I flush with hot softened water and saltaway
A couple of side by side before and after shots would have been great. Did a great job though.
Noted bro
It's not avalaible in Europe. Any alternative ? Thanks.
That pump looks exactly like a waterfall pump