The most informative I've seen regarding an Atwood/Dometic water heater maintenance and repair video! The only thing this video didn't have is how to boil hot water LOL
This guy has obviously spent his life on top of a large hill in a really cool historical building with neatly maintained plants studying the way of rv hot water heaters. Wow.
Wow, what great detail! I'm just now troubleshooting a 10 gallon Atwood GC10A-4E (LP/120vac) water heater in my '06 Monaco. I have the factory repair manual, and even *that* does not call out the wiring color code (or I just haven't found it) nor explain where the flame detect sensor is. Many thanks for posting this.
You just saved me I just checked the hot water fuse and it was fine.. but after watching your video I went ahead and checked them all and one was bad and I replaced it now my hot water heater works thank goodness two days without a shower but that's all over now thanks to you
I would have never thought it would have been a different fuse you would think it would be the hot water fuse what's the chances thank goodness for you tube and people like you
Thank you for explanation of these wires. I really needed this info. I also really like the area you are in. Beautiful part of the states. We are in south Alabama on August 19th 2023 and it is 101 and that's not the heat index. Thanks again for all the very informative videos...
I count on the videos posted on you tube to learn when I need information, you Sir have posted the best video I’ve ever seen Thank you ! absolutely the most detailed information ever . 👍
Great explanation. I love listening to people who know what they're talking about. I now have a much better idea of what to look for in my water heater.
Hola buenos días, es de por mucho la mejor descripción que encontré a cerca del funcionamiento del calentador, compré hace poco una autocaravana con ese mismo calentador, exacto, y no me funciona en ninguna de las dos formas, tampoco envía señal de mal funcionamiento al panel de control, ( led rojo ), hice un diagrama en papel de todos los cables voy a comenzar a medir he intentar encontrar el problema, gracias.
Fantastic video. I was having some blowback from the P/T valve. Thought it might be gone but used a punch on the little stem and small drip stopped and no leakage and no stream of hot water. Thanks you were great.
Excellent video! I carry an extra pop off valve in my 5th wheel. We live about half the time in our rig and I try to carry a few parts just for peace of mind. When I bought my rig I almost bought a couple of anode rods that were labeled for Atwood water heaters. I’m glad I did a little research first before buying them.
Wow, best video I've ever seen on the water heater! Thank you! I am new to this, and the manual says flush the water heater annually, but not how to do it. I wondered if it meant drain it and refill it a few times, which I figured wouldn't get that crud out of the bottom very well. And the explanation of how things work and troubleshooting tips really helped!
That was a lot of good info on how they work and easy enough to follow, after rewatching the wiring part about 6 times. My 120v water heater section stopped working a few months ago. So how do I get to the relay to check that since u said it is "behind" the tank. Also I just back flushed the tank yesterday like always and now the flame will not stay lit. Ignitor comes on and flames stays on for about 7 seconds then turns off. LP is 1/2 full and the gap is more than 1/8" but then it has been for the last 5 years with no issues. Since u work on these so much u prob would have fixed it already in the time it took me to write this. Thanks for the good videos.
My almost exact same unit has stopped working and your information has been absolutely brilliant thanks mate. I can at least try and diagnose where the issue might be armed with this extremely helpful information and just a multi-meter. I cleaned it out as it had a ton of Aussie red fine dust in the whole unit built up over a year of two of outback travels and may have created my own problem by applying a small amount of hose down water (indirectly) but still in there which may have caused a problem in the sensor line. At least I have an idea of how it should work now so can try and diagnose the issue before employing outside assistance that I fear will be at exorbitant rates given the shortage of tradies here in Australia in this post COVID era we're in! Appreciate this a ton! Thank you very much. Paul (& Sans) 😀 I know now to give it a clean out a lot more frequently too!
We bought a used Lance 1685, when we first tried to take a shower the water heater would turn on, burn a couple seconds and shut off (with the electric off and tank cold) after a couple tries I thought better take a look. The thermocouple looked a little far away, I bent it down a fraction and tried again...viola it worked. Strangly, the camper is 8 years old, and the oven was never used. The first time I fired it up, flames were shooting out of almost every joint leading to the pilot...that was a scary moment.
Great video and that you mentioned if the water comes out of the pressure release area there is too much pressure buildup or the it's at 150 psi or 210 deg it will release the pressure shooting the water out of it. That's what mine is doing. So my question is, how do you adjust that? How do you adjust the pressure that's going through this? It only happened when I was trying to use hot water at the kitchen sink. No hot water. That's when I realized that the water was shooting out of the pressure release component. Thanks much!
Thank you so much for your videos. they help me out so much at work and you explain things in a great way where i learn what i need to do and how to find out how and why not just fixing the problem and not learning anything but that fix 🙏👍
Great video. Explanation of wiring & what, where & how it does what it does. I have a 1988 rv, therefore a 1988 hwh i believe. It is dc/gas only. 3 wires: green, blue, black no orange or yellow. It is also heated by engine. Any reason you can think of where gas WON'T turn off after temp met. This was after engine off & water cooled. Turned on water htr switch & never heard it cycle off. Fortunately i was in rv when this occurred.
Excellent explanation. I'm helping a neighbor install a new Atwood heater, and it has the 4 wires (orange, white, green, blue) as explained here. The old unit (also Atwood) only had three... and the new unit did not come with a manual!! Testing the existing switch inside the RV, power feeds only one wire heading to the unit. We were wondering if tying both the white and orange to the switched lead would work, but it sounds like that would turn on both gas and electric operation. There is a separate 120vac switch to power the electric element, but that does not tie into 12v operation. SO... I'm going to tap from the supply 12v wire and add another switch to isolate electric operation from gas (an "on/off/on" single switch would be ideal, but there's not one available anywhere around here, and he's heading south for the winter before deep freeze this week). Anyway, thanks for the full explanation of how/why it works. I hope I never have to install another one of these things, but if I do, now I know what wires go where. THANKS!!!
This is the second video on water heaters where you have a pop off dripping on the heat exchanger and rusting it out. I would add a fitting (maybe a 30 or 45 degree plastic fitting and a pipe to keep the drips below the components outside of the WH.
Can I use my water heater as strictly electric with no propane pilot being lit? I am a very new full time live in 5th wheel, I have this same kind of water heater that you are talking about in this video and so many things make sense from what I was told when purchasing it used and the whooshing noise that happens everytime we turn it on with the gas, so in addition to adjusting the gas I was just wondering if I could just strictly use electricity...
Absolutely fantastic explaination. Thorough, detailed description that was easily understood and instrumental in allowing me to diagnose my hot water heater problem.
We have this in our new Forest River Solera. We have read that to heat with electricity there should be a on off switch inside at the place this is installed. There is nothing like that. We switched it on inside the camper but it did not heat up the water. We are perplexed.
Good morning, I'm starting an mobil rv repair business I'm a retired plumbing and electrical contractor I'm 71yo and I'm bored stiff doing nothing sooooo, your TH-cam page is a great source of knowledgeable information about everything rv, keep up the great work, also were do you get all your parts or appliances? Ray s.
Really interesting and informative! Thank you. Our brand new wh is now clicking, but that's hopefully a repairable problem and better than the backfire due to (likely insect) obstruction that created the need for a new wh ....
Hello I appreciate all the videos you have they really helped me I have a question though how often should I replace my anode rod if I live in my RV full-time and my water heater is always on I would assume it needs to be replaced more often given the fact it is always on?
Terrific video. This video contained the content I needed to diagnose the problem with my water heater. You explain the functions of every part of the water heater both gas and electric in simple, easily understood terms. Bravo. I have one very small point of critique though. You should consider a remote microphone. The volume of your voice would fade out when you looked away from the camera (guessing) making it a bit difficult to hear what you were saying at times. Normally I'd just turn the volume up, but i'm using headphones and normally they are at maximum volume. Otherwise a perfect video.
On some of my other videos, I have tried the lavaliere microphone - both wired and wireless. The wireless one I use had great reviews on Amazon so I chose that one but it has a bit of a hum with my setup, so I am looking for other options. The wired one works great, but I get it caught some times as I move around. Thanks for the input though! Thanks for watching!
I have a brand new dometic water heater that is shutting down on the gas side after three successfull ignites wiht blue flame...I am checking grounds on the flame sensing side as well as measuring the gap on the probes...thanks!!
What that translates into is the control board not detecting the flame. You are correct in checking to confirm 1/8" gap. It may be the electrode itself or the control board has faulted.
@@MyRVWorks your video solved my issue. Not my dealer whatsoever. I bent the two probes as close as I could without letting them touch and that solved the issue. I made hot water with LP all weekend!! Thanks!!
I bought an older R/V. Ever since I found your channel and have been binge watching. Your information is very helpful to me. I have a question though. I have a gas only Atwood. It fires up no problem gets to temp. But when cools it will not restart to maintain temp. Would that be a new thermostat?
hello from the ozarks!! thanks for a very informative video! how do u check electric atwood control board on electric. im getting 12v to switch inside and 12v. leaving switch inside and into my control board but nothing happens
I was there once. Built a power plant on eden's hook I think it's called. Out by the coastguard. I really liked Bushwackers restaurant. Nice place. Great video. Subbed from West Virginia.
Hi Don, Yes, the area around Ediz hook has been under re-development the last few years. The papermill, that made all they 'yellow pages' shut down for many years but is back up and running making cardboard now and the fueling plant next to it is making Port Angeles a great fueling station for all the ships coming in and out of the straight. Always exciting to see such massive ships sitting right out in the port of Port Angeles. We are also getting a new hotel, conference center, art center etc. Thanks for making the power good all those years ago! Happy Camping My RV Works Media Team
There was a foul smell when using the hot water. I did the back flush on my Atwater heater. After re-filling the heater had the same smell. Some one suggested using a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water mix and heat up the heater and let it run for a few hours, is this a good method or is there there a better way of getting rid of the smell? Thanks
Great explanation of how everything works. Some of the stuff that came out during the flush could be corrosion, aluminum does corrode, especially when it's continuously covered in water. From what I know about aluminum, and it may not be applicable to a water heater tank: It would probably be a good idea to leave the drain plug off and let it dry out so that the aluminum can oxidize. The aluminum oxide layer is what protects aluminum from corrosion.
Excellent vid... Question: I replaced the igniter and circuit board... Igniter now doed it's job, as well as the board in that it ignites, but even though the flame comes on, igniter continues to click, and then has closes as though it couldn't detect the flame after about 10 seconds. Any ideas? I'm also full time, with gdaughters that I'm raising... Cold showers in the summer is one thing... Not so fun in the winter... TIA
Great video. All maintenance performed on my water heater. Electric side and propane functioning. Water gets hot, but after a few quarts it starts to go warm. Propane doesn’t light to keep hot on demand. Thermal cut off is good according to meter. I’m thinking the thermostats are faulty. Would you agree?
I love your videos. Do you have a video of how to replace the old atwood 16 inches by 12 to the new Dometic wh-6gea 12 by 12 with the new doors 94067? The new door is 3 pieces the door and 2 spacers. I can't find instructions for the install of the 2 spacers. Thank you. Tom in NW Arkansas
I think I will try this. Lost power and heated water hose froze. I got things thawed but now that I am hooked back to city water I do not have pressure when I turn my hot water faucets on. Was going to check for sediment in line out but I can’t get to it. Do you think this will work?
My dometic water heater WH-6GEA isn't working on electric or gas. I also have 120V right at the water heater. However there is no 120V on the other side of the relay to go to energise my heating element. After trouble shooting I have 12V coming in on the white wire. I also have 12V on the top brown leaving and going through my thermostat and thermal cut off and ending up on the brown wire. However that is when my bottom wiring harness is not plugged in. Soon as I plug it in I no longer have my 12V. There seems to be a volt drop inside the board. So then I have no 12V on the yellow wire to close the relay so the120V will be switched to energize my element. This is a brand new 2022 Winnebago and did work at one rime but now doesn't. I think it's the DSI board but what do you think? My trailer is permanently set up for the summer so I don't want to pack up and drive to the dealership to repair under warranty. Too much hassle and they may keep it for a while.
My pop off valve on my water heater came with a barbed end so I just put a plastic tube on it and run it to the outside. It's never dripped, but now even if I have to really suppress her for any reason or even just to test it, I can do so without getting everything soaking wet. It's a good idea and I kind of wonder why or manufacturers don't ship it this way. I do have a question though. My water heater fires perfectly every time. Never fails. However, occasionally when it fires the flame will flutter for a couple of seconds before it smooths out. What would cause that? What am I looking for? I've had it all apart on an unrelated matter(electrode), and everything looked fine so I fixed what I had to fix and put it back together, and the fluttering is still there. Like I said it doesn't do it every time but it's one of those little things that just drives me nuts.
Great Video - thanks so much. I was boondocking and my Atwood WH was running on LP but when ever I turned on the Generator it would also turn on the Electric WH Element. Tried to switch off electric from inside coach but unable to make it run just on LP when Generator was running. If I turned off the Gas WH Switch it would turn off the WH. Trying for figure out what's causing this.??
Our dometic was working fine for over a year but then stopped on Saturday- the day before we were closing up for the season. We had hot water in the AM but in the PM it wouldn't work on either electric or propane. Any suggestions? RV is a 2021 Coleman and my guess is the water heater won't be under warranty.
Hey, my HW tank was a bit different; however, you explained it so well, I could get the job done. Thank you so much for the tips! I am a new RVr with an old RV. I am somewhat confused about the inside lines that have all the different shutoffs and how they work. Can you please explain those also .. thanks so much
Enjoyed I enjoyed your video very much if you could please have a video of something about a hot water heater the hot water not lasting thank you have a nice
Great video! I learned a whole lot more than from the manual or the dealership! But I was wondering if you've got a video or information on the back of the heater? The side thats in the RV. I'm having issues with leaks!
Great video, you talked about the rear or back side of the water heater. I'm assuming that's where the reset switch is for the electric is.Mine is gas and electric. I have a Thor Wind Sport 27k I understand that I have to access the water heater behind the drawers but can't seem to get the drawers to release. If you or any of your followers have any ideas, they would be greatly appreciated.
A little late for you, but on our drawers, there are little black latches on the slides. You either push them up or down depending on how they were installed. On one of my drawers, I have to pull one side up and push the other side down. They are very small levers.
First, Great video. Regarding the pop off valve, couldn’t you as a rv owner, pipe from pop off valve down to lower level of cabinet so water during flushing and if valve would start to leak it’s not dripping on heat exchanger? Again Thankyou
Darren another GREAT VIDEO! Back Flush 101! Could you post a general pic of your Back Flush tool with general description, I see it a Ball valve 1/2 inch?, reducer (size) copper tube (size, length) bent end (60 or 90 degree) and crimped end! OR do you sell such tool? Quick question ; RV furnace gas system and water heater gas system are almost identical except the Furnace has a blower wheel to purge the gas system (15 seconds) but water heaters do not?? Thanks
learned alot from ur videos every spring my atwood water heater wont ignite 4 quite awhile sumtimes a day or then it lights and works great after that igniter is new and is adjusted properly anyone suggestions plse on how to get it to light faster thx
Informative video. I’ve done a thorough cleaning of my tank, even cleaned with distilled vinegar to pull more sediment out. After replacing the plug and burping the tank, I am not getting any pressure in the hot water line. I’ve tried closing the bypass valve and testing the lines to make sure there is no blockage and I can get cold water to flow from both sides of my faucets, but as soon as I’ve switched back to normal operation on the bypass, the hot water just stops flowing completely. There was a check valve on the exiting hot water line, and I’ve tried replacing that, and just removing it altogether. Still no hot water flow. All of my faucets are shut off, so it’s not losing pressure there. Almost like there is air pressure pushing back against the hot water line. Have you experienced this scenario before? Thanks, Ryan.
You have probably got this fixed by now. However, when you filled the tank if water came OTR he pop off then the cold inlet is working ok. It probably got crud I’m the hot outlet when flushing it. I would hook up the cold in to the hot out and back flush the line. Or if available you can use air. Either way have the heater turned off and the pug out so you don’t back feed the water system. Good luck.
@@rogermeyer8849 I did end up back flowing the inlet side. Definitely worth it as I did get a ton more crud to come out. Ultimately I think I had two lines reversed which became obvious when I had the hot water line unattached and turned the pump on. Water flying everywhere. Another good reminder to always tag your lines with tape before you disassemble so they don’t get confused. Still surprised you can get cold water flowing through the tap with a line reversed. Thanks, Ryan.
i really liked this crazy thing is i dont know how or when does the water 'enter' the tank? When I turn the switch inside the camper on, the light goes on but I never hear any water entering the tank, also when the tank has water does it always refill itself from the fwt ? Should I empty my tank after a certain amount of time?
Will gas part of the hot water heater work if they electric relay is bad ? The only thing I haven't replaced is the gas valve/ solenoid and( the relay and heating element inside )
Question. I cleaned out my Atwood water heater from the drain plug. And as I was draining the water it was as hot as could be, hot enough to make coffee. And when I open a tap it's only say 75% hot. All faucets are closed and I make sure no faucet is open to mix hot and cold yet I'm wondering. Because no water is dripping or running anywhere and no mixing, and no taps on other than the hot water to a sink or to the shower. Any ideas or suggestions to check.
Great video. I am having an issue with my Atwood WH. It is burning back through the air shutter. I cleaned the tube and vacuumed the heat exchanger both not helped. Any ideas?
If I'm following your question correctly, the light next to the switch for gas (LP) inside your RV will only turn on if there was a fault when it tries to ignite on gas and it was not able to. Other than that, that light would not be on. That is to say that light is not a pilot light to indicate that it is on or off. It's only a light letting you know there was a fault.
Rust is the indication that your heating element is rusting up and gonna needs to be replaced before it corrodes and starts leaking and flooding your camper in which case I had to do.
I bought a new anode rod and the wan to flush the demotic water hear for my new grand design 17mke travel trailer. When I emptied the water heater I find it doesn’t use an anode and the wan will not fit into the drain. Is this the way new grand design trailers are being produced. I am. Trying to winterizing it for the winter.
Im a first timer RV, Ive seen a lot of videos but none explaining how to start the water heater. What steps should I follow to get the water heater to function. Do I always need the LP gas tank on while using the heater?
Thanks for the video. i have one question. The blue wire to the light is 12 volt so does the other terminal on the light marked negative just go to common ground or does it go somewhere else like back thru the circuit board i am wiring one up from scratch and this is the only thing i am not sure of.
Blue wire from that control board turns on the DSI Fault light if the water heater tries to ignite on LP and cannot. So, for that light to turn on, control board sends 12 volts on the blue wire if it detects the fault. The other part of the light needs a ground reference. So, that could be any path to frame. Because the battery negative is bonded to the frame - thus completing the path that makes the light turn on.
Question for you. I have a 2004 cougar fifth wheel. On the RV name plate it shows the model of my hot water heater. Suburban SW60E. Is that supposed to read SW6DE??? Thanks
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The most informative I've seen regarding an Atwood/Dometic water heater maintenance and repair video! The only thing this video didn't have is how to boil hot water LOL
This guy has obviously spent his life on top of a large hill in a really cool historical building with neatly maintained plants studying the way of rv hot water heaters. Wow.
*Works great **Fastly.Cool** compact and Easy to install*
Best description of the water heater function I have ever seen!!
Wow, what great detail! I'm just now troubleshooting a 10 gallon Atwood GC10A-4E (LP/120vac) water heater in my '06 Monaco. I have the factory repair manual, and even *that* does not call out the wiring color code (or I just haven't found it) nor explain where the flame detect sensor is. Many thanks for posting this.
You just saved me I just checked the hot water fuse and it was fine.. but after watching your video I went ahead and checked them all and one was bad and I replaced it now my hot water heater works thank goodness two days without a shower but that's all over now thanks to you
I would have never thought it would have been a different fuse you would think it would be the hot water fuse what's the chances thank goodness for you tube and people like you
Thank you for explanation of these wires. I really needed this info. I also really like the area you are in. Beautiful part of the states. We are in south Alabama on August 19th 2023 and it is 101 and that's not the heat index. Thanks again for all the very informative videos...
I count on the videos posted on you tube to learn when I need information, you Sir have posted the best video I’ve ever seen Thank you ! absolutely the most detailed information ever . 👍
Thank you for the common wisdom that share with your viewers. Your channel is my favorite RV channel. Keep up the great work.
Peter Danniels, Victoria BC, eh?
Great explanation of this burp & backflush process. You really seem to know your stuff - not a wasted second!
Great explanation. I love listening to people who know what they're talking about. I now have a much better idea of what to look for in my water heater.
Thank you. Exceptional explanation of how the Atwood water heater should work. 😊
Hola buenos días, es de por mucho la mejor descripción que encontré a cerca del funcionamiento del calentador, compré hace poco una autocaravana con ese mismo calentador, exacto, y no me funciona en ninguna de las dos formas, tampoco envía señal de mal funcionamiento al panel de control, ( led rojo ), hice un diagrama en papel de todos los cables voy a comenzar a medir he intentar encontrar el problema, gracias.
Great video Darren! Appreciate your explanation of all the various items on a water heater and how they work.
Fantastic video. I was having some blowback from the P/T valve. Thought it might be gone but used a punch on the little stem and small drip stopped and no leakage and no stream of hot water. Thanks you were great.
Just the type of video I was looking for. New RV owner and needed to feel comfortable messing with the water heater. Thanks for the info!
Excellent video! I carry an extra pop off valve in my 5th wheel. We live about half the time in our rig and I try to carry a few parts just for peace of mind. When I bought my rig I almost bought a couple of anode rods that were labeled for Atwood water heaters. I’m glad I did a little research first before buying them.
Wow, best video I've ever seen on the water heater! Thank you! I am new to this, and the manual says flush the water heater annually, but not how to do it. I wondered if it meant drain it and refill it a few times, which I figured wouldn't get that crud out of the bottom very well. And the explanation of how things work and troubleshooting tips really helped!
is there an electric 12 v fuse for the heater
Once per year should be adequate as long as your fresh water source is contaminated.
That was a lot of good info on how they work and easy enough to follow, after rewatching the wiring part about 6 times. My 120v water heater section stopped working a few months ago. So how do I get to the relay to check that since u said it is "behind" the tank. Also I just back flushed the tank yesterday like always and now the flame will not stay lit. Ignitor comes on and flames stays on for about 7 seconds then turns off. LP is 1/2 full and the gap is more than 1/8" but then it has been for the last 5 years with no issues. Since u work on these so much u prob would have fixed it already in the time it took me to write this. Thanks for the good videos.
My almost exact same unit has stopped working and your information has been absolutely brilliant thanks mate. I can at least try and diagnose where the issue might be armed with this extremely helpful information and just a multi-meter. I cleaned it out as it had a ton of Aussie red fine dust in the whole unit built up over a year of two of outback travels and may have created my own problem by applying a small amount of hose down water (indirectly) but still in there which may have caused a problem in the sensor line. At least I have an idea of how it should work now so can try and diagnose the issue before employing outside assistance that I fear will be at exorbitant rates given the shortage of tradies here in Australia in this post COVID era we're in! Appreciate this a ton! Thank you very much. Paul (& Sans) 😀
I know now to give it a clean out a lot more frequently too!
Thank you for breaking down the operation system on the Atwood hot water heater! Great explanation!
Great explanation! Saved our week camping. Turned out to just be dirty but know where to look.
We bought a used Lance 1685, when we first tried to take a shower the water heater would turn on, burn a couple seconds and shut off (with the electric off and tank cold) after a couple tries I thought better take a look. The thermocouple looked a little far away, I bent it down a fraction and tried again...viola it worked.
Strangly, the camper is 8 years old, and the oven was never used. The first time I fired it up, flames were shooting out of almost every joint leading to the pilot...that was a scary moment.
Excellent video, definitely the best video I've ever found on RV Atwood water heaters! Thank you so much!
Great video and that you mentioned if the water comes out of the pressure release area there is too much pressure buildup or the it's at 150 psi or 210 deg it will release the pressure shooting the water out of it. That's what mine is doing. So my question is, how do you adjust that? How do you adjust the pressure that's going through this? It only happened when I was trying to use hot water at the kitchen sink. No hot water. That's when I realized that the water was shooting out of the pressure release component. Thanks much!
Thank you so much for your videos. they help me out so much at work and you explain things in a great way where i learn what i need to do and how to find out how and why not just fixing the problem and not learning anything but that fix 🙏👍
Great video. Explanation of wiring & what, where & how it does what it does. I have a 1988 rv, therefore a 1988 hwh i believe. It is dc/gas only. 3 wires: green, blue, black no orange or yellow. It is also heated by engine. Any reason you can think of where gas WON'T turn off after temp met. This was after engine off & water cooled. Turned on water htr switch & never heard it cycle off. Fortunately i was in rv when this occurred.
Just stumbled on this amazing information. As a newbie camper it will be invaluable to maintain my camper. Also comes with great explanations.
Excellent explanation. I'm helping a neighbor install a new Atwood heater, and it has the 4 wires (orange, white, green, blue) as explained here. The old unit (also Atwood) only had three... and the new unit did not come with a manual!! Testing the existing switch inside the RV, power feeds only one wire heading to the unit. We were wondering if tying both the white and orange to the switched lead would work, but it sounds like that would turn on both gas and electric operation. There is a separate 120vac switch to power the electric element, but that does not tie into 12v operation. SO... I'm going to tap from the supply 12v wire and add another switch to isolate electric operation from gas (an "on/off/on" single switch would be ideal, but there's not one available anywhere around here, and he's heading south for the winter before deep freeze this week). Anyway, thanks for the full explanation of how/why it works. I hope I never have to install another one of these things, but if I do, now I know what wires go where. THANKS!!!
Hope my explanation helped. Happy camping and thanks for watching.
Excellent video with thorough descriptions.
great video ! Incredible tool for full timers ! Darren, you rock !!
Thank you!
This is the second video on water heaters where you have a pop off dripping on the heat exchanger and rusting it out. I would add a fitting (maybe a 30 or 45 degree plastic fitting and a pipe to keep the drips below the components outside of the WH.
Can I use my water heater as strictly electric with no propane pilot being lit? I am a very new full time live in 5th wheel, I have this same kind of water heater that you are talking about in this video and so many things make sense from what I was told when purchasing it used and the whooshing noise that happens everytime we turn it on with the gas, so in addition to adjusting the gas I was just wondering if I could just strictly use electricity...
Absolutely fantastic explaination. Thorough, detailed description that was easily understood and instrumental in allowing me to diagnose my hot water heater problem.
We have this in our new Forest River Solera. We have read that to heat with electricity there should be a on off switch inside at the place this is installed.
There is nothing like that. We switched it on inside the camper but it did not heat up the water. We are perplexed.
Good morning, I'm starting an mobil rv repair business I'm a retired plumbing and electrical contractor I'm 71yo and I'm bored stiff doing nothing sooooo, your TH-cam page is a great source of knowledgeable information about everything rv, keep up the great work, also were do you get all your parts or appliances?
Ray s.
Really interesting and informative! Thank you. Our brand new wh is now clicking, but that's hopefully a repairable problem and better than the backfire due to (likely insect) obstruction that created the need for a new wh ....
Hello I appreciate all the videos you have they really helped me I have a question though how often should I replace my anode rod if I live in my RV full-time and my water heater is always on I would assume it needs to be replaced more often given the fact it is always on?
Terrific video. This video contained the content I needed to diagnose the problem with my water heater. You explain the functions of every part of the water heater both gas and electric in simple, easily understood terms. Bravo. I have one very small point of critique though. You should consider a remote microphone. The volume of your voice would fade out when you looked away from the camera (guessing) making it a bit difficult to hear what you were saying at times. Normally I'd just turn the volume up, but i'm using headphones and normally they are at maximum volume. Otherwise a perfect video.
On some of my other videos, I have tried the lavaliere microphone - both wired and wireless. The wireless one I use had great reviews on Amazon so I chose that one but it has a bit of a hum with my setup, so I am looking for other options. The wired one works great, but I get it caught some times as I move around. Thanks for the input though! Thanks for watching!
@@MyRVWorks I plan to watch more of your videos. You probably saved me a bunch of money with your video. Hope to learn more from you.
I have a brand new dometic water heater that is shutting down on the gas side after three successfull ignites wiht blue flame...I am checking grounds on the flame sensing side as well as measuring the gap on the probes...thanks!!
What that translates into is the control board not detecting the flame. You are correct in checking to confirm 1/8" gap. It may be the electrode itself or the control board has faulted.
@@MyRVWorks your video solved my issue. Not my dealer whatsoever. I bent the two probes as close as I could without letting them touch and that solved the issue. I made hot water with LP all weekend!! Thanks!!
I bought an older R/V. Ever since I found your channel and have been binge watching. Your information is very helpful to me. I have a question though. I have a gas only Atwood. It fires up no problem gets to temp. But when cools it will not restart to maintain temp. Would that be a new thermostat?
hello from the ozarks!! thanks for a very informative video! how do u check electric atwood control board on electric. im getting 12v to switch inside and 12v. leaving switch inside and into my control board but nothing happens
I was there once. Built a power plant on eden's hook I think it's called. Out by the coastguard. I really liked Bushwackers restaurant. Nice place. Great video. Subbed from West Virginia.
Hi Don,
Yes, the area around Ediz hook has been under re-development the last few years. The papermill, that made all they 'yellow pages' shut down for many years but is back up and running making cardboard now and the fueling plant next to it is making Port Angeles a great fueling station for all the ships coming in and out of the straight. Always exciting to see such massive ships sitting right out in the port of Port Angeles. We are also getting a new hotel, conference center, art center etc. Thanks for making the power good all those years ago!
Happy Camping
My RV Works Media Team
There was a foul smell when using the hot water. I did the back flush on my Atwater heater. After re-filling the heater had the same smell. Some one suggested using a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water mix and heat up the heater and let it run for a few hours, is this a good method or is there there a better way of getting rid of the smell? Thanks
Great explanation of how everything works.
Some of the stuff that came out during the flush could be corrosion, aluminum does corrode, especially when it's continuously covered in water. From what I know about aluminum, and it may not be applicable to a water heater tank: It would probably be a good idea to leave the drain plug off and let it dry out so that the aluminum can oxidize. The aluminum oxide layer is what protects aluminum from corrosion.
Excellent explanation, I know the control circle very clearly. And solved my problem. Thank you.
Excellent vid... Question: I replaced the igniter and circuit board... Igniter now doed it's job, as well as the board in that it ignites, but even though the flame comes on, igniter continues to click, and then has closes as though it couldn't detect the flame after about 10 seconds. Any ideas? I'm also full time, with gdaughters that I'm raising... Cold showers in the summer is one thing... Not so fun in the winter... TIA
Great video. All maintenance performed on my water heater. Electric side and propane functioning. Water gets hot, but after a few quarts it starts to go warm. Propane doesn’t light to keep hot on demand. Thermal cut off is good according to meter. I’m thinking the thermostats are faulty. Would you agree?
I love your videos. Do you have a video of how to replace the old atwood 16 inches by 12 to the new Dometic wh-6gea 12 by 12 with the new doors 94067? The new door is 3 pieces the door and 2 spacers. I can't find instructions for the install of the 2 spacers. Thank you. Tom in NW Arkansas
Wow, great job of explaining how it works.
Great video, this is the one I was looking for. Thank you so much for this information. good job.
Thanks, I have got water now! Brown wire connection issue!
I think I will try this. Lost power and heated water hose froze. I got things thawed but now that I am hooked back to city water I do not have pressure when I turn my hot water faucets on. Was going to check for sediment in line out but I can’t get to it. Do you think this will work?
My dometic water heater WH-6GEA isn't working on electric or gas.
I also have 120V right at the water heater.
However there is no 120V on the other side of the relay to go to energise my heating element.
After trouble shooting I have 12V coming in on the white wire.
I also have 12V on the top brown leaving and going through my thermostat and thermal cut off and ending up on the brown wire.
However that is when my bottom wiring harness is not plugged in.
Soon as I plug it in I no longer have my 12V. There seems to be a volt drop inside the board.
So then I have no 12V on the yellow wire to close the relay so the120V will be switched to energize my element.
This is a brand new 2022 Winnebago and did work at one rime but now doesn't.
I think it's the DSI board but what do you think?
My trailer is permanently set up for the summer so I don't want to pack up and drive to the dealership to repair under warranty. Too much hassle and they may keep it for a while.
My pop off valve on my water heater came with a barbed end so I just put a plastic tube on it and run it to the outside. It's never dripped, but now even if I have to really suppress her for any reason or even just to test it, I can do so without getting everything soaking wet. It's a good idea and I kind of wonder why or manufacturers don't ship it this way.
I do have a question though. My water heater fires perfectly every time. Never fails. However, occasionally when it fires the flame will flutter for a couple of seconds before it smooths out. What would cause that? What am I looking for? I've had it all apart on an unrelated matter(electrode), and everything looked fine so I fixed what I had to fix and put it back together, and the fluttering is still there. Like I said it doesn't do it every time but it's one of those little things that just drives me nuts.
You are my hero. Don't every change your process. Cant thank you enough for your videos bro❤️
Great Video - thanks so much. I was boondocking and my Atwood WH was running on LP but when ever I turned on the Generator it would also turn on the Electric WH Element. Tried to switch off electric from inside coach but unable to make it run just on LP when Generator was running. If I turned off the Gas WH Switch it would turn off the WH. Trying for figure out what's causing this.??
Our dometic was working fine for over a year but then stopped on Saturday- the day before we were closing up for the season. We had hot water in the AM but in the PM it wouldn't work on either electric or propane. Any suggestions? RV is a 2021 Coleman and my guess is the water heater won't be under warranty.
Great video - very professional.
Good information thanks for sharing
Hey, my HW tank was a bit different; however, you explained it so well, I could get the job done. Thank you so much for the tips! I am a new RVr with an old RV. I am somewhat confused about the inside lines that have all the different shutoffs and how they work. Can you please explain those also .. thanks so much
Enjoyed I enjoyed your video very much if you could please have a video of something about a hot water heater the hot water not lasting thank you have a nice
Great video!
Thank you very much for your video! Great explanation! You really knows what you are talking about!!! You really helped us! God bless you!!!
Just wonderful. Thanks. Why doesn't the atwood have a sacrificial anode?
Phil C. Atwood tanks are aluminum so don’t need sacrificial anode rod like suburban steel tanks
Great video! I learned a whole lot more than from the manual or the dealership!
But I was wondering if you've got a video or information on the back of the heater? The side thats in the RV. I'm having issues with leaks!
Great video, you talked about the rear or back side of the water heater. I'm assuming that's where the reset switch is for the electric is.Mine is gas and electric. I have a Thor Wind Sport 27k I understand that I have to access the water heater behind the drawers but can't seem to get the drawers to release. If you or any of your followers have any ideas, they would be greatly appreciated.
A little late for you, but on our drawers, there are little black latches on the slides. You either push them up or down depending on how they were installed. On one of my drawers, I have to pull one side up and push the other side down. They are very small levers.
First, Great video. Regarding the pop off valve, couldn’t you as a rv owner, pipe from pop off valve down to lower level of cabinet so water during flushing and if valve would start to leak it’s not dripping on heat exchanger? Again Thankyou
Darren another GREAT VIDEO! Back Flush 101! Could you post a general pic of your Back Flush tool with general description, I see it a Ball valve 1/2 inch?, reducer (size) copper tube (size, length) bent end (60 or 90 degree) and crimped end! OR do you sell such tool?
Quick question ; RV furnace gas system and water heater gas system are almost identical except the Furnace has a blower wheel to purge the gas system (15 seconds) but water heaters do not??
Thanks
excellent explanation, clear and organized, thank you :))
Very well done video, thanks!
learned alot from ur videos every spring my atwood water heater wont ignite 4 quite awhile sumtimes a day or then it lights and works great after that igniter is new and is adjusted properly anyone suggestions plse on how to get it to light faster thx
Great job, thank you very much. You made the statement that the plug "must" be plastic? Would you elaborate on that.
Dennis Evans If you use any type of metal plug you may set up some electrolysis and corrode the pug or the tank.
Don't put a pug in there to soft I mention plug cheers
great job. your a very good teacher.. when you fill back up can that be done via water pump or does it have to be from a hookup?
Doesn't matter. Just make sure the tank is full before turning it on.
Another great video. Thank you.
Informative video. I’ve done a thorough cleaning of my tank, even cleaned with distilled vinegar to pull more sediment out. After replacing the plug and burping the tank, I am not getting any pressure in the hot water line. I’ve tried closing the bypass valve and testing the lines to make sure there is no blockage and I can get cold water to flow from both sides of my faucets, but as soon as I’ve switched back to normal operation on the bypass, the hot water just stops flowing completely. There was a check valve on the exiting hot water line, and I’ve tried replacing that, and just removing it altogether. Still no hot water flow. All of my faucets are shut off, so it’s not losing pressure there. Almost like there is air pressure pushing back against the hot water line. Have you experienced this scenario before? Thanks, Ryan.
You have probably got this fixed by now. However, when you filled the tank if water came OTR he pop off then the cold inlet is working ok. It probably got crud I’m the hot outlet when flushing it. I would hook up the cold in to the hot out and back flush the line. Or if available you can use air. Either way have the heater turned off and the pug out so you don’t back feed the water system. Good luck.
@@rogermeyer8849 I did end up back flowing the inlet side. Definitely worth it as I did get a ton more crud to come out. Ultimately I think I had two lines reversed which became obvious when I had the hot water line unattached and turned the pump on. Water flying everywhere. Another good reminder to always tag your lines with tape before you disassemble so they don’t get confused. Still surprised you can get cold water flowing through the tap with a line reversed. Thanks, Ryan.
i really liked this crazy thing is i dont know how or when does the water 'enter' the tank? When I turn the switch inside the camper on, the light goes on but I never hear any water entering the tank, also when the tank has water does it always refill itself from the fwt ? Should I empty my tank after a certain amount of time?
So how do you use just electric? Is there a switch inside the outside panel? Or is it the switch in the bathroom? Thanks
Will gas part of the hot water heater work if they electric relay is bad ? The only thing I haven't replaced is the gas valve/ solenoid and( the relay and heating element inside )
this was an awesome video, thank you!
Great video and after following the step I still can’t get my flame to stay lit.
great vid, but how about no flow at spicket? nothing, just stopped. check valve somewhere ? ugh what a pain lol
Can you hook the thermostat to any RV heater
Question. I cleaned out my Atwood water heater from the drain plug. And as I was draining the water it was as hot as could be, hot enough to make coffee. And when I open a tap it's only say 75% hot. All faucets are closed and I make sure no faucet is open to mix hot and cold yet I'm wondering. Because no water is dripping or running anywhere and no mixing, and no taps on other than the hot water to a sink or to the shower. Any ideas or suggestions to check.
Which water heaters are better? The Atwood Aluminum or Suburban?
If you have on on/off switch can you just turn it off instead of pulling the wires off the board?
Great video. I am having an issue with my Atwood WH. It is burning back through the air shutter.
I cleaned the tube and vacuumed the heat exchanger both not helped.
Any ideas?
Curious would you recommend using an anode rod in a aluminum tank water heater? And if not why?
What is wrong if the light on the control switch inside doesn't come on. ,but everything still works
If I'm following your question correctly, the light next to the switch for gas (LP) inside your RV will only turn on if there was a fault when it tries to ignite on gas and it was not able to. Other than that, that light would not be on. That is to say that light is not a pilot light to indicate that it is on or off. It's only a light letting you know there was a fault.
@@MyRVWorks thanks. Big help
Great video. Thank you.
Rust is the indication that your heating element is rusting up and gonna needs to be replaced before it corrodes and starts leaking and flooding your camper in which case I had to do.
I bought a new anode rod and the wan to flush the demotic water hear for my new grand design 17mke travel trailer. When I emptied the water heater I find it doesn’t use an anode and the wan will not fit into the drain. Is this the way new grand design trailers are being produced. I am. Trying to winterizing it for the winter.
Thank you sir a great explanation 😮
Another very helpful video! 😀
Do you have a video on how you made the back flush tool?
Im a first timer RV, Ive seen a lot of videos but none explaining how to start the water heater. What steps should I follow to get the water heater to function. Do I always need the LP gas tank on while using the heater?
You only need the propane on if you are using propane to heat the water. It can be off if using electric.
Thanks for the video. i have one question. The blue wire to the light is 12 volt so does the other terminal on the light marked negative just go to common ground or does it go somewhere else like back thru the circuit board i am wiring one up from scratch and this is the only thing i am not sure of.
Blue wire from that control board turns on the DSI Fault light if the water heater tries to ignite on LP and cannot. So, for that light to turn on, control board sends 12 volts on the blue wire if it detects the fault. The other part of the light needs a ground reference. So, that could be any path to frame. Because the battery negative is bonded to the frame - thus completing the path that makes the light turn on.
Question for you. I have a 2004 cougar fifth wheel. On the RV name plate it shows the model of my hot water heater. Suburban SW60E. Is that supposed to read SW6DE??? Thanks
This was great and very informative. Thanks
Can I use Teflon on the plug to place it back on?
My new dometic water heater does not have a an adjustment around the Venturi, how does this oxygen adjustment take place when it is wide open?