I have loved all your videos so thorough all the videos I’ve watched and your the only one that said what I was thinking how do I know when it’s full , you are missed deeply 🙏 but have left so much !
Thank I really like your program I am newly retire and I just bought a camper and I am going to put it on my land in northern Michigan and I am learning a lot of good thing on your u tub channel thank you for your program I am learning alot from you and I am not going up their blind and I have a plan I did not know how blind I was in till your I found your show and I planned on getting my equipment from your site thank you for your site Warren
Thank you so much Warren. I'm so glad our videos are helping you and super happy to hear that you have a plan. Joanie kids me all the time about that. She always says, "you have to have a plan my friend". Planning and being prepared is the key to success. Also, thank you for supporting our channel. It means a lot to Joanie & I...more than you know. 🔧 🎅
Finally got it done. Golly, what a mess of deposit flushed out. The pressure/temperature relief valve temperature tube was near to failure as I have ever seen. Thanks, for stressing the importance of cleaning/flushing the water heater. It's now an annual PM item
Excellent video. I live in the country and have done this with my house water heater. All kinds of crap came out. I never thought of doing this to my trailer. Heading out to get more vinegar and gonna be cleaning out my RV water heater in the next week. Thank you for the video. You got a new subscriber 👍
Thank you for subbing. This video is over a year old. I just released 2.0 of cleaning the water heater just a few days ago. Much, more detail. I encourage you to watch it: Here's a link to my latest water heater video (2.0) if you haven't seen it already: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html Here's my PLAYLIST too if you're interested. th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Ya but WAIT.......my 2.0 water heater flushing video coming out April 11th. It's packed with a ton of more details that weren't covered here. You'll love it. 🔧
Thanks for the video on the Atwood. Very helpful. Each one is a little different. I switched out my nylon plug to brass too. But I can’t imagine doing this twice a year?
great video. I don't like letting the water run out everywhere, so I used 1/2" to garden hose adaptors to connect a hose to both the drain and overflow valve. Then I can direct the water into a bucket.
Yesterday, I went one step farther and added a shutoff gate valve to the adapter, and a quick release to connect a hose to the valve. So far, so good. No need to try to get a wrench in there. And no more vinegar/water all over the side of the RV. I'll add an adapter and hose to the overflow. Good idea.
One of the best rv repair videos that I ve seen. Period I did not hesitate to subscribe to your channel. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge with us. Camper "J"
Thx John so much. Have you watched my 2.0 water heater that I just released about 10 days ago? Much more detailed. Here's a short cut link if you want: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html And here's another link to my PLAYLISTS page: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists Thanks for watching and subbing. 🔧 👍
Excellent video. When filling the hot water tank, after the PRV (pressure relief valve) starts spilling water, I close it, and then open a water tap to purge the remaining air.
Just bought my first travel trailer. It's in the driveway. No water in it yet. Wanting to clean my water heater before our first trip. Your instructions are good. But i need to know how too fill the tank with my garden hose when I'm finished cleaning.😊
Very well done! I'll use this one. Mine isn't a hot water heater but I'm guessing the procedure is the same 😊 That nylon plug though - it is a safety item that will blow if the upper valve fails.
thx so much 👍 My water heater video 2.0 I did 2yrs. after this one is even more thorough. It's definitely worth watching: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I didn't know about this and my hot water tank explode now i am getting a use one but i will be doing this with the new one too make sure its clean and working right thanks you😊
I’ve always been wondering about the heating elements and how to clean them along with the tank, now I know. Now I have to just invest in the wand to clean the tank. Great video!
You can also pump the vinegar/water solution into the bottom of the HX and out the top with a 5 gallon bucket to hold the water/acid solution. Need more fittings, and It’s more complicated. That’s how the tankless HWX is descaled at least once a year. I’ve done it many times at the house.
Thank you so very much! We just bought our new to us used rv and find we are learning so much from your video’s. Our plan is to start our full timing rv living next year. Again thank you so very much!
Thanks Socal, I'd like to invite you to watch my water heater 2.0 video that I just released a couple of days ago. It's more detailed and I know you'll luv it. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
thx Dave, No it's not a problem on the lp pipes. I highly encourage you to watch my 2.0 video on this subject. Much, much better: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I have a 6 gallon Atwood. When it's drained and you refill it into the port of the pressure relief valve you can pour in 3 gallons of vinegar and only 1 more gallon of water for a total of four before the liguid pour out the port of the pressure relief valve. So 4 gallons is the limit. There are 2 gallons of 'head room' above the pressure relief valve that must be filled from the water supply side not throught the pressure relief port.
*There are 2 gallons of 'head room' above the pressure relief valve that must be filled from the water supply side not through the pressure relief port.* Yep, that’s what I said in the video. Fill with 3 gal. of vinegar, install the high pressure valve, then turn on the main water valve and let it fill the rest of the way. I didn’t say fill with vinegar and then with water thru the high pressure valve. It’s OK. You just missed that part. I highly encourage you to watch my 2.0 water heater video. There’s a ton of other info in that one that I think you’ll really like: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html thx Denis
*Hey guys, just wanted to alert you to my NEW Water Heater Video (2.0) that was just released on April 25, 2021* It's way more detailed and I cover a lot of other service items. I even show you what it looks like inside the water heater with an endoscope. I know you'll love it. Watch it here: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html Also, concerning the Nylon Plug that I replaced with a brass plug. Several months after I produced the above video you just watched, I looked closer as to why that nylon plug wasn't sealing properly. It had mineral deposits built up way inside in the threads. Once cleaned, I tried a new Nylon Plug and it seals fine now. So I am back using the Nylon Plug. The nylon plug is a backup safety feature. The plug is hollow on the inside and it's designed to blow out if the primary safety feature-the high pressure valve-fails for whatever reason.
You're welcome Doug....good job 👍 Be sure to watch my 2.0 water heater service video that I did this spring. It's packed with more important details. I know you'll really like it. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
The way you did this, I don't have to go out and buy anything extra. I have to do this tomorrow. I'm a newbie, so the first time I do anything, it's scary !! I'm a 73 year old female and I've bought this camper to live in. Everything is a challenge for me. I'm trying to underpin with metal. That's been very trying. Rethinking my purchasr.
Hi Diana, Good for you. You'll be fine 👍 Watch my water heater 2.0 too. It's much more detailed. You'll love it th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html All my videos: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Great video! Will be cleaning our hot water tank, today! Was wondering if there is another video that shows how to light the gas pilot light for noon docking?
You really should watch my water heater video 2.0: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html It doesn't address the gas pilot part but covers a lot more info than I covered here. thx Debbie
Thoughts on Magnesium Anode rod for Atwood water heaters. Suggested after 2 to 3 years of use. Seen other rv tech video's recommending this after motorhome is over 3 or 4 years old has something to do with warranty
Hi Susan, If you liked this water heater video, you really should watch my 2.0 video. Way more detail and info. It's here if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Hi Arthur, Have you seen my 2.0 water heater video. WAYyyyyyyyy better than this one and covers a lot more details. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Before you do I'd like to humbly ask you to watch my 2.0 water heater video I recently released. It's packed with a lot more info. I know you'll love it and covers a lot my service items. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
TY for the video. In the event that I don’t have the luxury of waiting until the water cools off at it own pace, would any harm be caused by turning off the water supply at the spigot and opening two faucets in the RV on the hot position and allowing the hot water to drain out into the grey tank(s)? Pls advise. Thank you.
No problem in doing that. Once you've done that, go back to the water heater and open the brass high pressure valve to just make sure all pressure is off. Then drain the water heater (WH) from the plug WITH GLOVES ON. Give the WH about 15 minutes to cool some before adding white vinegar. BTW...I have a much more detailed WH video coming out April 11.(It's my 2.0 version) where I go into a lot more detail in the flushing, cover electrical things and safety features. I also use a endoscope to show you what happens when you flush your WH. You really should watch this vid too. Thx David
if you liked this video you'll really like my 2.0 water heater version if you haven't watched it yet. It's way more detailed and informative. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html thx Peace for watching. 🔧👍
Great video. I have a question. Does it matter if you have your water heater bypass valve on or off when you are doing the flush out? Not the vinegar soak but just when you’re flushing with the wand.
Not sure how your rig is set up but with ours the wand is hooked up to a separate hose. So what I do is turn the water ON as usual and let the water drain down from the top of the water heater and then my wand which is hooked up to a separate hose I blast from the bottom. That way I'm rinsing from the top and bottom.
Martin, thanks for the video, I have a class c motor home. I am not sure if I have a wet bay or the mechanism to "release the pressure" as outlined in step 2. Could you steer me in the right direction?
I'm not sure exactly what your referring to with your set up but I'll give it a try. If you want to "release the pressure" off the water heater" just turn off the main water supply at the spigot and then go inside the RV and open the hot side of any faucet. That will release any pressure. I also encourage you to watch my water heater service video 2.0. It's way better than this first one I did a couple of years ago. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Will the tank get air bound when you are adding the water to the tank to make 50/50 solution (7:50). I always lift the relief valve lever till i get water out thru the relief valve. Otherwise how is the air replaced with water?
It won't get "air bound" as you put it, but opening the HP valve like you do is a good way to make sure that no air remains inside. You can also open up any hot side faucet in the RV too. But neither is really necessary. If you haven't already watched my way more comprehensive video I've recently released I encourage you to do so. It covers a ton more information. I think you'll really like it. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html thx Dave for the question and for watching 🔧 👍
Yes you could but getting the right concentration is going to be tough doing it that way. I'd be fixing that HP valve. There's probably a lot of corrosion around that thread area. Take a small wire brush and clean that area good. Then, take your time, liberally use some penetrating fluid, let it sit, keep applying it and carefully try to break it lose. Maybe even heat up the water heater first and see if that heat will help expand those threads a little so you can remove the old valve. Once removed, I'd clean those threads in the water heater fitting real good, buy a new HP valve, apply a dab of anti seize and install the new valve. I've done a much more detailed water heater video here (2.0) if your interested: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Your model# label will be right there when you remove the outside panel to service it. Then look it up on the web or refer to your user manual. If you don't have the manual I highly encourage you to download it from the web. If you've done the proper service on the electrical stuff then no. I also encourage you to watch my 2.0 water heater video. Much more detail and it will address the electrical stuff too: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html thx Charles
New to us used RV. Had it 6 months but 1st time using hot after heater.....HORRIBLE rotten egg smell. Will this take care of that? And do I need an anode rod in mine? Same heater as video. THANKS!
as a person that did pluming for 40 years, I have to ask. why do you need a HOT water heater? if you have hot water why do you need a heater? what you are working on is a water heater. also there is only one correct way to use a crescent wrench and you had it backwards at 7:19. otherwise pretty good instructions.
The reason for the plastic plug is if the temperature gets too hot and the ECO and PT Thermostat fail, the plug will melt so you don’t create a bomb. NEVER put in a metal plug.
No it should not. If you're interested, I just released 2.0 video on this subject. Much more detailed, I show what it looks like inside and cover electrical stuff and safety features: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
You could just turn your city water OFF and ON at the spigot. Also, I'd like to invite you to watch my 2.0 water heater video I just released recently. Much more detail and I also show you what it looks like inside the water heater. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Hey buddy last night by mistake left gas running with no water in tank THis morning i noticed it it One hour later put water in tank to see if it works and seems to work My qustion do you think i need to repace tank or leave it like that thank you and by the the way LOVE your Bandana My kind of guy thanks
WOW, I'm really trying to figure out how in the world that could of happened. The only way I can think of is, you were not hooked up to city water, the fresh water tank was empty and the water pump was off. But how in the world was not water left in the water heater from the last time you used it? Anyway..... Well you MAY have gotten lucky. What I'd do is fill it up with water, turn it ON and let it fully heat up and check very closely that there are no leaks anywhere. Check everywhere even under the cabinets where the water heater is. You need to actually look at the back of the water heater VERY CLOSELY and make sure there's no leaks. If there is even a small hairline leak, it will turn catastrophic over time. If no leaks keep your eye on it for the next few cycles just to be sure. BTW...I encourage you to watch my water heater 2.0 video. Much more detailed and I know you'll like it: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
@@RVstreet my rv is all electrnic We must of touched our panel by mistake with out notice ing it We are getting ready to leave for Florida soon ILL keep on eye on it and see what happens Worst ill change it with my wife Like you guys do THANKS buddy stay guys ill let keep you informed Hope to see you guys on the road someday
Been watching your videos and enjoy how you present the material. just watched your hot water PM as I have a 2000 Monaco with 7000 original miles but previous owner didn't do any PM and I have been doing things that need to be done and just got to the atwood water heater didnt even know you could heat with the electric switched turned on I suspect that that part does not function. Im wondering if you have video on how to replace that part as this video didnt have any
@@RVstreet yes I turned of the propane turned on switch has a light in switch left it on for hour no hot water did have amp meter to check but I was just looking for information on how to get the heating element and what is involved. Im pretty versed in high and low voltage. Have You ever had to replace one
@@arniemazza6261 No I haven't done a video on replacing the heating element. But since you're versed in those things you can check whether the element is good or bad on the back of it with a multi-meter. You find the heating element connections on the back of the water heater.
Have you noticed that your subfloor is ruined by the water that finds its way via the steel sheet metal edge (the 90 degree edge where it has lots of hidden openings) ? It has ruined mine.
Ya know, I had that same problem and so I wire brushed, and lighly sanded that area and repainted it about 2 years ago but it's coming back again. Because that door, the way it's designed always seems to catch water and old it for awhile down in that rolled area. It's only surface rust so I wouldn't lose sleep over it, but if you want, do what I did every couple of 3 years.
I was rinsing mine and the wand shot off into the tank. Camco said it would come out when emptying or with coat hanger. Nope still in there. Any ideas?
Wow never heard of that before. When the water heater is empty it will be laying on the bottom. Ya I would try using a wire coat hanger too and bend the tip to a hook shape, then bend the hanger to a curve shape and try to drag it to the drain hole where you can get a hold of it. BUT...I also have another much more detailed water heater video coming out April 11th. It's 2.0. You'll really like this one too. It covers a lot more stuff. But in this video I use an endoscope to look inside the water heater thru the drain hole. You could use one of those to locate the wand at the bottom to know exactly where it is to fish it out. They're cheap to buy but really helpful to see into areas that are impossible otherwise. Another way you could possibly retrieve this is they have these long little hose attachments that fit onto a regular vacuum cleaner hose. These attachments are usually used for cleaning tight tiny areas like an instrument cluster in your car. So you'd attach the long skinny hose to the end on the vacuum handle where you would normally attach a regular attachment, feed that hose into the drain hole and snake it around to suck that wand to the hole where you can get a hold of it. Something like this: www.amazon.com/Schneider-Industries-Micro-Vacuum-Attachment/dp/B000BSJCLY/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=small+long+vacuum+attachments+for+detailing&qid=1616121859&sr=8-7
I just got a anode rod for my Atwood water heater...haven't put it in yet, just replaced the petcock that was in it as it was all corroded. Didn't know they made anode rods for the Atwood water heater. What do you think of an anode rod for the Atwoods? I'll get back to the anode rod after I replace the outside shower faucet that broke...Thanks 🤠👍
@@RVstreet I've known that for a while now and I spotted the Camco anode rod at several RV stores that is specifically designed for the Atwood water heater...I got it to put in as I just replaced the petcock the day before. Just wondering if there would be any adverse effects by using this anode rod or if it is really. 🤠👍
@@barneymerrill3188 You really need to check your manual. Just because a store carries it doesn't make it true. Suburban water heaters have forever been the only ones that require a anode because they are built with a steel clad tank and the anode protects it from corrosion. An Atwood water heater is made with an aluminum-clad tank that eliminates the need for an anode rod. BTW...what petcock are you referring to? Do you mean the high pressure valve?
Super helpful! Thanks. One question: did you start adding vinegar with the bypass system bypassed? It had to be unbypassed, and in normal use mode, when you filled the tank with water, right? Or was it unbypassed from the very start of your process?
If it's an Atwood water heater it will be. Look for the switch inside the RV. Watch my 2.0 version video on how to care for this unit. It's much more detailed. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
That brass plug was a temporary fix and it doesn't have the safety feature that the Atwood nylon plug has. I explained this in my 2.0 water heater video here: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html You should really watch this video. Much more detailed. The proper nylon plug is in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet thx Shawn 👍
Got a new, updated video coming out soon. This one I promise you is 10x better than the one you just watched which was made two years ago. The new video covers a lot of stuff that was left out of the first one.
It's in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet I also highly encourage you to watch my water heater 2.0 video too. It's way more detailed than this one and will really be helpful to you. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Nan 👍 If you think that one was good you should watch my 2.0 video I did later on. I cover a lot more things, safety features and show you what the water heater looks like before and after cleaning. I know you'll really like it. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Pretty sure mine was never cleaned before I purchased it. I had so much calcium build it.. an hour till nothing came out. I have to change my thermostat ,blowback and element. Didn’t do this but I will today
@@stevenpriester4334 Ya it was but I went into cleaning electrical connections, showing the inside before and after cleaning and showing the 3 different safety features. I just wanted to show you everything so while your servicing it just do everything all at once. 👍
Thx John 👍 I have since released a 2.0 video on this subject that is packed with way more info, safety features and an inside peak into the water heater. I highly encourage you to take a look: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Because the tank has a clad aluminum lining that protects from corrosion. I have another water heater video coming out on April 11 (2.0) You'll luv video. It goes into much more detail plus I use an endoscope where we can actually look up inside in the water heater before and after cleaning.
The Atwood tank is made of aluminum. Aluminum reacts to metals, this is why you should NOT change the nylon plug to brass; it also act as a safety device incase of pressure buildup... it will burst to release the pressure while brass won't. Because Aluminum does not rust, there is also no need for an anode rod so do not replace that plug with an anode.
The brass plug was a temporary leak fix until I fixed that problem. That's why you should watch my 2.0 video where I explained this and much more maintenance details. I announced all this and much more in the very first comment in my 2.0 video below. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html Thx Allen
Dang it...I just bought an anode assuming is was the same as my old 5th wheel that had a Suburban WH with a SS tank lined with a porcelain interior. Well there goes $14
Well not exactly, but you really need to watch my new 2.0 water heater maintenance video coming out soon. I go into much more detail and use an endoscope. I hope you're subbed. thx for watching my friend. 😜
This video is two years old, but I just completed a much more updated version (2.0) of how to care for an Atwood Water Heater and it covers a whole lot more stuff that I know you'll find useful. Watch for it being released in a few weeks. It shows a lot more of the technical things everyone should know about. Thanks Paul for watching and stay tuned. 🔧 👍
Brass and aluminum together cause corrosion. Also the nylon plug acts a a freeze plug and will blow out if pressure in the tank increases and your pressure release valve fails. I put in a brass plug last year and noticed the threads in the water heater were beginning to corrode. Professional RV techs advise against using anything but the nylon plug.
The brass plug was a temporary fix and no corrosion. But it fixed my problem until I fixed the threads in the water heater and yes the nylon IS a safety feature-one of 3-which I showed in my 2.0 water heater video. Mentioned all this in the very first comment of both videos. My 2.0 water heater video which is much more comprehensive if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html thx William 👍
@@xxxindigo I've never made that comment before on other videos so I have no idea what you're talking about, my dad was a plumber, he always said that , I was only being funny, don't get your panties in a bunch
I have no idea. I shouldn't. Did you buy this rig used? If so maybe the previous owner did some thing screwy with it. It's a drain plug and that's it. Are you sure you're looking at the drain plug and not the heating element? 👍
Thanks Mike. I have another video coming out soon on this subject. Flushing a water heater 2.0. So much more detailed. I hope your subbed. So stay tuned for that.
hey buddy in the attwood heater the water input is from the bottom not the top , This is to push the air out the top outlet of the tank , (Also hot water rises ) , you said water trickles in from the top ,,, Please check the OUTLET is on the top of the tank as it may have been plumbed incorect ,,,
The reason you are told to not install brass plugs is due to the fact the oem "plastic plug" is a fail safe fail point incase the P&T valve fails. Oh and also if you cross thread with the plastic plug you dont damage the tank, if you cross thread a brass plug you will need a new tank.
Martin, Big Thanks. Great job on All of your videos! I have already watched 6 or 7. Every one I have watched were well organized, insightful, and very helpful. I consider myself an average skilled Do-It-Yourselfer and handyman, so all of your tips look like things that I might want to try. Plus you seem to be able to find a few "hidden gems" that are new techniques or new ideas. Thanks! One Question: have you done any videos on how You Flat-tow (Dingy-tow) your pulled vehicle?
Hi Carol, Thanks for the kind words. I have an extensive video coming out Sept 26th on how to be Safe and Legal while Flat towing. Hope you're subscribed so you'll be notified when it goes live. Also, I'd like to recommend watching my 2.0 video on servicing your water heater below. It's much more detailed and covers more things. I know you'll like it. 🔧👍 th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. I'd like to invite you to watch my 2.0 water heater video I just release 6 days ago. Much more detail and I also show you what it looks like inside the water heater. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I have loved all your videos so thorough all the videos I’ve watched and your the only one that said what I was thinking how do I know when it’s full , you are missed deeply 🙏 but have left so much !
Just purchased a brand new 2022 Arctic Wolf 3550 Suite with a dometic heater and the water stinks like rotten eggs, so glad I found your video!!!
Thank I really like your program I am newly retire and I just bought a camper and I am going to put it on my land in northern Michigan and I am learning a lot of good thing on your u tub channel thank you for your program I am learning alot from you and I am not going up their blind and I have a plan I did not know how blind I was in till your I found your show and I planned on getting my equipment from your site thank you for your site Warren
Thank you so much Warren. I'm so glad our videos are helping you and super happy to hear that you have a plan. Joanie kids me all the time about that. She always says, "you have to have a plan my friend". Planning and being prepared is the key to success. Also, thank you for supporting our channel. It means a lot to Joanie & I...more than you know. 🔧 🎅
Finally got it done. Golly, what a mess of deposit flushed out. The pressure/temperature relief valve temperature tube was near to failure as I have ever seen. Thanks, for stressing the importance of cleaning/flushing the water heater. It's now an annual PM item
👍
Thanks for the great instructions and reminder about the damage of hard water and calcium build-up on the appliances and system!
Excellent video. I live in the country and have done this with my house water heater. All kinds of crap came out. I never thought of doing this to my trailer. Heading out to get more vinegar and gonna be cleaning out my RV water heater in the next week. Thank you for the video. You got a new subscriber 👍
Thank you for subbing.
This video is over a year old. I just released 2.0 of cleaning the water heater just a few days ago. Much, more detail. I encourage you to watch it:
Here's a link to my latest water heater video (2.0) if you haven't seen it already:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Here's my PLAYLIST too if you're interested.
th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
I saved this video a year ago and finally got a camper with Atwood heater. Thanks for the tips! It worked great!
Ya but WAIT.......my 2.0 water heater flushing video coming out April 11th. It's packed with a ton of more details that weren't covered here. You'll love it. 🔧
I am wondering why you did not use the water pump to pull the vinegar into the hot water tank vs. removing the high pressure valve and pouring it in?
Thanks for the video on the Atwood. Very helpful. Each one is a little different. I switched out my nylon plug to brass too.
But I can’t imagine doing this twice a year?
Recently purchased a used coach, Winnebago 30T. A few years newer than yours but all systems the same. Another great video. Many thanks.
great video. I don't like letting the water run out everywhere, so I used 1/2" to garden hose adaptors to connect a hose to both the drain and overflow valve. Then I can direct the water into a bucket.
Yesterday, I went one step farther and added a shutoff gate valve to the adapter, and a quick release to connect a hose to the valve. So far, so good. No need to try to get a wrench in there. And no more vinegar/water all over the side of the RV. I'll add an adapter and hose to the overflow. Good idea.
One of the best rv repair videos that I ve seen. Period I did not hesitate to subscribe to your channel. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge with us. Camper "J"
Thx John so much.
Have you watched my 2.0 water heater that I just released about 10 days ago? Much more detailed. Here's a short cut link if you want:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
And here's another link to my PLAYLISTS page: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Thanks for watching and subbing. 🔧 👍
Excellent video. When filling the hot water tank, after the PRV (pressure relief valve) starts spilling water, I close it, and then open a water tap to purge the remaining air.
Thanks Martin! We need a video on painting our rusty water heater door also! Happy New Year!!!
Rust: th-cam.com/video/QQnsKk1he-M/w-d-xo.html
Here's all my videos: www.youtube.com/@RVstreet/playlists
Just bought my first travel trailer. It's in the driveway. No water in it yet. Wanting to clean my water heater before our first trip. Your instructions are good. But i need to know how too fill the tank with my garden hose when I'm finished cleaning.😊
Just hook up the motorhome to city water and turn it on and it will full the water tank up
Very well done! I'll use this one. Mine isn't a hot water heater but I'm guessing the procedure is the same 😊 That nylon plug though - it is a safety item that will blow if the upper valve fails.
Thank you for your input and you are totally correct about the nylon plug. Martin did a second video about the water heater and addressed that issue.
I like your RV videos the best. You’re thorough and you explain it with simplicity.
thx so much 👍
My water heater video 2.0 I did 2yrs. after this one is even more thorough. It's definitely worth watching:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Will do👍🏼
I didn't know about this and my hot water tank explode now i am getting a use one but i will be doing this with the new one too make sure its clean and working right thanks you😊
I’ve always been wondering about the heating elements and how to clean them along with the tank, now I know. Now I have to just invest in the wand to clean the tank. Great video!
Be sure to watch my 2.0 water video coming out tonight @ 8pm CDT. I go into a lot more detail and I know you'll like it even better.
Ever thought of putting an anode rod in, they make one for an Atwood water heater
You can also pump the vinegar/water solution into the bottom of the HX and out the top with a 5 gallon bucket to hold the water/acid solution. Need more fittings, and It’s more complicated. That’s how the tankless HWX is descaled at least once a year. I’ve done it many times at the house.
And you need a pump of course. I used a Sump pump.
Thank you so very much! We just bought our new to us used rv and find we are learning so much from your video’s. Our plan is to start our full timing rv living next year. Again thank you so very much!
Your welcome and I know you're excited. So that's good that you have a whole year to get that baby in shape before you leave. That's good planning.
Another great video. Thank you Martin, and good job with the camera Joanie.
Martin have you ever done video on maintaince on the furnace.
Thanks so much
Very helpful! Thanks for posting. Excellent to see the step-by-step process.
Thanks Socal,
I'd like to invite you to watch my water heater 2.0 video that I just released a couple of days ago. It's more detailed and I know you'll luv it.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
So the water getting on the lp pipes something i need to worry about? Your vids are amazing! Your Amazing. such a Great Teacher, and Funny
thx Dave,
No it's not a problem on the lp pipes.
I highly encourage you to watch my 2.0 video on this subject. Much, much better:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I just bought it older r&b and I will be flushing the hot water heater out thank you
May I suggest you watch my latest 2.0 water heater service video. More detailed and much more information. 👍
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I have a 6 gallon Atwood. When it's drained and you refill it into the port of the pressure relief valve you can pour in 3 gallons of vinegar and only 1 more gallon of water for a total of four before the liguid pour out the port of the pressure relief valve. So 4 gallons is the limit. There are 2 gallons of 'head room' above the pressure relief valve that must be filled from the water supply side not throught the pressure relief port.
*There are 2 gallons of 'head room' above the pressure relief valve that must be filled from the water supply side not through the pressure relief port.*
Yep, that’s what I said in the video. Fill with 3 gal. of vinegar, install the high pressure valve, then turn on the main water valve and let it fill the rest of the way. I didn’t say fill with vinegar and then with water thru the high pressure valve. It’s OK. You just missed that part.
I highly encourage you to watch my 2.0 water heater video. There’s a ton of other info in that one that I think you’ll really like:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
thx Denis
*Hey guys, just wanted to alert you to my NEW Water Heater Video (2.0) that was just released on April 25, 2021*
It's way more detailed and I cover a lot of other service items. I even show you what it looks like inside the water heater with an endoscope. I know you'll love it.
Watch it here: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Also, concerning the Nylon Plug that I replaced with a brass plug.
Several months after I produced the above video you just watched, I looked closer as to why that nylon plug wasn't sealing properly. It had mineral deposits built up way inside in the threads. Once cleaned, I tried a new Nylon Plug and it seals fine now. So I am back using the Nylon Plug.
The nylon plug is a backup safety feature.
The plug is hollow on the inside and it's designed to blow out if the primary safety feature-the high pressure valve-fails for whatever reason.
It’s cooking tonight. Thanks Martin
You're welcome Doug....good job 👍
Be sure to watch my 2.0 water heater service video that I did this spring. It's packed with more important details. I know you'll really like it. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
The way you did this, I don't have to go out and buy anything extra. I have to do this tomorrow. I'm a newbie, so the first time I do anything, it's scary !! I'm a 73 year old female and I've bought this camper to live in. Everything is a challenge for me. I'm trying to underpin with metal. That's been very trying. Rethinking my purchasr.
Hi Diana,
Good for you. You'll be fine 👍
Watch my water heater 2.0 too. It's much more detailed. You'll love it
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
All my videos: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Great video! Will be cleaning our hot water tank, today! Was wondering if there is another video that shows how to light the gas pilot light for noon docking?
You really should watch my water heater video 2.0: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
It doesn't address the gas pilot part but covers a lot more info than I covered here.
thx Debbie
Thoughts on Magnesium Anode rod for Atwood water heaters. Suggested after 2 to 3 years of use. Seen other rv tech video's recommending this after motorhome is over 3 or 4 years old has something to do with warranty
Atwood water heaters do NOT use Anode rods. Suburban water heaters do.
As a newbie, I really appreciate your info
Hi Susan,
If you liked this water heater video, you really should watch my 2.0 video. Way more detail and info. It's here if you're interested:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you this was the best video I have seen for that
Thank you
Real good instructional PM videos.
Hi Arthur,
Have you seen my 2.0 water heater video. WAYyyyyyyyy better than this one and covers a lot more details.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Well time to clean my water heater! Thank you RVStreet!
Hi Scott,
I encourage you to watch my 2.0 video on this subject. Way more info.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Curious if the buildup is only on the element? If so, why not just buy a new element and swap it out? They are less than 15.00.
The Atwood water heater doesn't have an element.
Easiest to follow, ty
Very good video, gonna do that today, thanks for sharing!
Before you do I'd like to humbly ask you to watch my 2.0 water heater video I recently released. It's packed with a lot more info. I know you'll love it and covers a lot my service items. th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
@@RVstreet will do thanks!
TY for the video. In the event that I don’t have the luxury of waiting until the water cools off at it own pace, would any harm be caused by turning off the water supply at the spigot and opening two faucets in the RV on the hot position and allowing the hot water to drain out into the grey tank(s)? Pls advise. Thank you.
No problem in doing that.
Once you've done that, go back to the water heater and open the brass high pressure valve to just make sure all pressure is off. Then drain the water heater (WH) from the plug WITH GLOVES ON. Give the WH about 15 minutes to cool some before adding white vinegar.
BTW...I have a much more detailed WH video coming out April 11.(It's my 2.0 version) where I go into a lot more detail in the flushing, cover electrical things and safety features. I also use a endoscope to show you what happens when you flush your WH. You really should watch this vid too.
Thx David
Your video was awesome and worth the time. Thank you RV STREET
if you liked this video you'll really like my 2.0 water heater version if you haven't watched it yet. It's way more detailed and informative.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
thx Peace for watching. 🔧👍
Hi mine doesn’t heat the water there is anything that I need to know I’m new on this please
Great video. I have a question. Does it matter if you have your water heater bypass valve on or off when you are doing the flush out? Not the vinegar soak but just when you’re flushing with the wand.
Not sure how your rig is set up but with ours the wand is hooked up to a separate hose. So what I do is turn the water ON as usual and let the water drain down from the top of the water heater and then my wand which is hooked up to a separate hose I blast from the bottom. That way I'm rinsing from the top and bottom.
Martin, thanks for the video, I have a class c motor home. I am not sure if I have a wet bay or the mechanism to "release the pressure" as outlined in step 2. Could you steer me in the right direction?
I'm not sure exactly what your referring to with your set up but I'll give it a try. If you want to "release the pressure" off the water heater" just turn off the main water supply at the spigot and then go inside the RV and open the hot side of any faucet. That will release any pressure.
I also encourage you to watch my water heater service video 2.0. It's way better than this first one I did a couple of years ago.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Will the tank get air bound when you are adding the water to the tank to make 50/50 solution (7:50). I always lift the relief valve lever till i get water out thru the relief valve. Otherwise how is the air replaced with water?
It won't get "air bound" as you put it, but opening the HP valve like you do is a good way to make sure that no air remains inside. You can also open up any hot side faucet in the RV too. But neither is really necessary.
If you haven't already watched my way more comprehensive video I've recently released I encourage you to do so. It covers a ton more information. I think you'll really like it.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
thx Dave for the question and for watching 🔧 👍
Can you put vinegar in the main tank and will it fill into the water heater tank? I can’t get my pressure relief valve off.
Yes you could but getting the right concentration is going to be tough doing it that way. I'd be fixing that HP valve. There's probably a lot of corrosion around that thread area. Take a small wire brush and clean that area good. Then, take your time, liberally use some penetrating fluid, let it sit, keep applying it and carefully try to break it lose. Maybe even heat up the water heater first and see if that heat will help expand those threads a little so you can remove the old valve. Once removed, I'd clean those threads in the water heater fitting real good, buy a new HP valve, apply a dab of anti seize and install the new valve.
I've done a much more detailed water heater video here (2.0) if your interested: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I attempted this, the 3 gal of vinegar I put in, ran out the water hose. Thoughts?
What do you mean *ran out the water hose*?
2 questions, how do I find out how many gallons, my hot water tank is? & do I need to let all the wires & components dry b4 turning back on the power
Your model# label will be right there when you remove the outside panel to service it. Then look it up on the web or refer to your user manual. If you don't have the manual I highly encourage you to download it from the web.
If you've done the proper service on the electrical stuff then no. I also encourage you to watch my 2.0 water heater video. Much more detail and it will address the electrical stuff too:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
thx Charles
@@RVstreet thank u
New to us used RV. Had it 6 months but 1st time using hot after heater.....HORRIBLE rotten egg smell. Will this take care of that? And do I need an anode rod in mine? Same heater as video. THANKS!
Atwood water heaters do not need or use an anode rod.
as a person that did pluming for 40 years, I have to ask. why do you need a HOT water heater? if you have hot water why do you need a heater? what you are working on is a water heater. also there is only one correct way to use a crescent wrench and you had it backwards at 7:19. otherwise pretty good instructions.
Should I turn off the by pass knobs ???
I am sad to say that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your question. Sorry
The reason for the plastic plug is if the temperature gets too hot and the ECO and PT Thermostat fail, the plug will melt so you don’t create a bomb. NEVER put in a metal plug.
I just posted that as well. Trying to save some people here too
Great video! So while the vinegar is doing its job overnight, should the hot water not be used?
No it should not.
If you're interested, I just released 2.0 video on this subject. Much more detailed, I show what it looks like inside and cover electrical stuff and safety features:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
@@RVstreet Thanks!
I don't have the tank full valve to switch back and forth. Is there something else I should be doing?
You could just turn your city water OFF and ON at the spigot.
Also, I'd like to invite you to watch my 2.0 water heater video I just released recently. Much more detail and I also show you what it looks like inside the water heater.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Hey buddy last night by mistake left gas running with no water in tank THis morning i noticed it it One hour later put water in tank to see if it works and seems to work My qustion do you think i need to repace tank or leave it like that thank you and by the the way LOVE your Bandana My kind of guy thanks
WOW, I'm really trying to figure out how in the world that could of happened. The only way I can think of is, you were not hooked up to city water, the fresh water tank was empty and the water pump was off. But how in the world was not water left in the water heater from the last time you used it? Anyway.....
Well you MAY have gotten lucky. What I'd do is fill it up with water, turn it ON and let it fully heat up and check very closely that there are no leaks anywhere. Check everywhere even under the cabinets where the water heater is. You need to actually look at the back of the water heater VERY CLOSELY and make sure there's no leaks. If there is even a small hairline leak, it will turn catastrophic over time. If no leaks keep your eye on it for the next few cycles just to be sure.
BTW...I encourage you to watch my water heater 2.0 video. Much more detailed and I know you'll like it: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
@@RVstreet my rv is all electrnic We must of touched our panel by mistake with out notice ing it We are getting ready to leave for Florida soon ILL keep on eye on it and see what happens Worst ill change it with my wife Like you guys do THANKS buddy stay guys ill let keep you informed Hope to see you guys on the road someday
Been watching your videos and enjoy how you present the material. just watched your hot water PM as I have a 2000 Monaco with 7000 original miles but previous owner didn't do any PM and I have been doing things that need to be done and just got to the atwood water heater didnt even know you could heat with the electric switched turned on I suspect that that part does not function. Im wondering if you have video on how to replace that part as this video didnt have any
Why do you suspect that part doesn't function? Have you tried it?
@@RVstreet yes I turned of the propane turned on switch has a light in switch left it on for hour no hot water did have amp meter to check but I was just looking for information on how to get the heating element and what is involved. Im pretty versed in high and low voltage. Have
You ever had to replace one
@@arniemazza6261 No I haven't done a video on replacing the heating element. But since you're versed in those things you can check whether the element is good or bad on the back of it with a multi-meter. You find the heating element connections on the back of the water heater.
Fantastic, I did not know how to do this properly. Many thanks!
I've got another water heater video coming out soon ( 2.0 ) It's way better and more detailed. So stay tuned. I hope your subbed.
So if I have a suburban heater with the anode can I flush the same and put a plug in for flushing and then put the anode back in after?
Yes, absolutely. If you want, I have a much more detailed water heater video coming out 2.0 on April 11th. I think you'll really like it.
thx Steve 👍
My Dad just took a bath taking my plug off before releasing the pressure lol
Have you noticed that your subfloor is ruined by the water that finds its way via the steel sheet metal edge (the 90 degree edge where it has lots of hidden openings) ? It has ruined mine.
Nope, no problems here.
can you suggest a filter for my Monaco
Martin has passed away recently and I am sorry but I don't have an answer for your question
So you dojng 3 gal of vinegar with a 6 gal water tank, would you say that with a 10 gal tank to do 5 gal of vinegar to keep the same ratio?
Yes. 50/50 solution.
Thanks all I been doing is draining just water heater
Should we worry about the rust around the bottom of the door because of the drained water ? Thanks.
Ya know, I had that same problem and so I wire brushed, and lighly sanded that area and repainted it about 2 years ago but it's coming back again. Because that door, the way it's designed always seems to catch water and old it for awhile down in that rolled area. It's only surface rust so I wouldn't lose sleep over it, but if you want, do what I did every couple of 3 years.
@@RVstreet Thank you very much, I will do it. Keep watching your videos.
You did not mention the ANODE, why?
Because Atwood water heaters don't have an anode. But Suburban water heaters do.
I was rinsing mine and the wand shot off into the tank. Camco said it would come out when emptying or with coat hanger. Nope still in there. Any ideas?
Wow never heard of that before. When the water heater is empty it will be laying on the bottom. Ya I would try using a wire coat hanger too and bend the tip to a hook shape, then bend the hanger to a curve shape and try to drag it to the drain hole where you can get a hold of it.
BUT...I also have another much more detailed water heater video coming out April 11th. It's 2.0. You'll really like this one too. It covers a lot more stuff. But in this video I use an endoscope to look inside the water heater thru the drain hole. You could use one of those to locate the wand at the bottom to know exactly where it is to fish it out. They're cheap to buy but really helpful to see into areas that are impossible otherwise.
Another way you could possibly retrieve this is they have these long little hose attachments that fit onto a regular vacuum cleaner hose. These attachments are usually used for cleaning tight tiny areas like an instrument cluster in your car. So you'd attach the long skinny hose to the end on the vacuum handle where you would normally attach a regular attachment, feed that hose into the drain hole and snake it around to suck that wand to the hole where you can get a hold of it. Something like this:
www.amazon.com/Schneider-Industries-Micro-Vacuum-Attachment/dp/B000BSJCLY/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=small+long+vacuum+attachments+for+detailing&qid=1616121859&sr=8-7
Does atwood not need an anode rod?
No it doesn't.
I really encourage you to watch my 2.0 Atwood video. Way more detailed. I know you'll love it.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I just got a anode rod for my Atwood water heater...haven't put it in yet, just replaced the petcock that was in it as it was all corroded. Didn't know they made anode rods for the Atwood water heater. What do you think of an anode rod for the Atwoods? I'll get back to the anode rod after I replace the outside shower faucet that broke...Thanks 🤠👍
Hi Barney,
Atwood HWH don't use an anode. Haven't forever, unless they just recently changed that. Check your manual. 👍
@@RVstreet I've known that for a while now and I spotted the Camco anode rod at several RV stores that is specifically designed for the Atwood water heater...I got it to put in as I just replaced the petcock the day before. Just wondering if there would be any adverse effects by using this anode rod or if it is really. 🤠👍
@@barneymerrill3188 You really need to check your manual. Just because a store carries it doesn't make it true. Suburban water heaters have forever been the only ones that require a anode because they are built with a steel clad tank and the anode protects it from corrosion.
An Atwood water heater is made with an aluminum-clad tank that eliminates the need for an anode rod.
BTW...what petcock are you referring to? Do you mean the high pressure valve?
@@RVstreet No, there's a petcock where the anode/drain plug is at...🤠
For Suburban hot water heater with anode rod- can the same vinegar tx be used? Or does the anode rod prevent the buildup? Excellent tutorial video.
Be careful using a different metal for the plug. Electroysis.!
Martin THANK YOUI
Super helpful! Thanks. One question: did you start adding vinegar with the bypass system bypassed? It had to be unbypassed, and in normal use mode, when you filled the tank with water, right? Or was it unbypassed from the very start of your process?
How do u tell if it is electric too
If it's an Atwood water heater it will be. Look for the switch inside the RV. Watch my 2.0 version video on how to care for this unit. It's much more detailed.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Nice job
I've 2.0 coming out soon. Much more detail. I know you'll love this one even more. 👍
thx John
Atwood (91857 1/2" Drain Plug - what would I ask for at Home Depot for the brass one you are using brother?
That brass plug was a temporary fix and it doesn't have the safety feature that the Atwood nylon plug has. I explained this in my 2.0 water heater video here: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
You should really watch this video. Much more detailed.
The proper nylon plug is in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
thx Shawn 👍
@@RVstreet ok thanks I will watch that video
Thank you
Got a new, updated video coming out soon. This one I promise you is 10x better than the one you just watched which was made two years ago. The new video covers a lot of stuff that was left out of the first one.
What size drain plug do I need
It's in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
I also highly encourage you to watch my water heater 2.0 video too. It's way more detailed than this one and will really be helpful to you.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. Great video
Great video.
Very good video. Thanks.
Thank you Nan 👍
If you think that one was good you should watch my 2.0 video I did later on. I cover a lot more things, safety features and show you what the water heater looks like before and after cleaning. I know you'll really like it.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Thx, very helpful.
Pretty sure mine was never cleaned before I purchased it. I had so much calcium build it.. an hour till nothing came out. I have to change my thermostat ,blowback and element. Didn’t do this but I will today
Be sure to watch my 2.0 video before you get started. Much more detailed. You'll love it.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Lol well now it’s kinda doing same thing. Even running on gas it’s cutting off and on. Replaced the thermostats and the blowout fuse/switch..🤷♂️
@@stevenpriester4334 Ya it was but I went into cleaning electrical connections, showing the inside before and after cleaning and showing the 3 different safety features. I just wanted to show you everything so while your servicing it just do everything all at once. 👍
My comment below - second grammatical error should read 'Flushing AN Atwood water heater'
You are correct but Martin has passed away and I have no idea how to edit the video.
Thanks Nice job god bless
Thx John 👍
I have since released a 2.0 video on this subject that is packed with way more info, safety features and an inside peak into the water heater. I highly encourage you to take a look: th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Why is there no anode rod for the Atwood?
Because the tank has a clad aluminum lining that protects from corrosion.
I have another water heater video coming out on April 11 (2.0) You'll luv video. It goes into much more detail plus I use an endoscope where we can actually look up inside in the water heater before and after cleaning.
@@RVstreet Thanks
The Atwood tank is made of aluminum. Aluminum reacts to metals, this is why you should NOT change the nylon plug to brass; it also act as a safety device incase of pressure buildup... it will burst to release the pressure while brass won't. Because Aluminum does not rust, there is also no need for an anode rod so do not replace that plug with an anode.
The brass plug was a temporary leak fix until I fixed that problem. That's why you should watch my 2.0 video where I explained this and much more maintenance details. I announced all this and much more in the very first comment in my 2.0 video below.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Thx Allen
Dang it...I just bought an anode assuming is was the same as my old 5th wheel that had a Suburban WH with a SS tank lined with a porcelain interior. Well there goes $14
Thanks for the information. If you are running a softener correctly you should have no hard water in the water heater. Still good for a good cleaning.
Well not exactly, but you really need to watch my new 2.0 water heater maintenance video coming out soon. I go into much more detail and use an endoscope. I hope you're subbed.
thx for watching my friend. 😜
@@RVstreet Thanks yes I am.
@@professionalinspectionserv9468 👍
Super video
Good video 👌🏻🙌🏻👍🏻🇨🇦 thanks 🙏🏻
If you think that video was good, you should watch my 2.0 video on the Atwood Water Heater.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
I like it. Very helpful. Thanks
This video is two years old, but I just completed a much more updated version (2.0) of how to care for an Atwood Water Heater and it covers a whole lot more stuff that I know you'll find useful. Watch for it being released in a few weeks. It shows a lot more of the technical things everyone should know about.
Thanks Paul for watching and stay tuned. 🔧 👍
Brass and aluminum together
cause corrosion. Also the nylon plug acts a a freeze plug and will blow out if pressure in the tank increases and your pressure release valve fails. I put in a brass plug last year and noticed the threads in the water heater were beginning to corrode. Professional RV techs advise
against using anything but the nylon plug.
The brass plug was a temporary fix and no corrosion. But it fixed my problem until I fixed the threads in the water heater and yes the nylon IS a safety feature-one of 3-which I showed in my 2.0 water heater video. Mentioned all this in the very first comment of both videos.
My 2.0 water heater video which is much more comprehensive if you're interested:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
thx William 👍
I don't have a hot water heater, if the water is hot you don't need to heat it, I have a water heater.
I’ve seen you comment on multiple videos with this correction. I’m sure you feel very pleased with yourself.
@@xxxindigo I've never made that comment before on other videos so I have no idea what you're talking about, my dad was a plumber, he always said that , I was only being funny, don't get your panties in a bunch
When the water gets down to the temperature that causes the heater to kick on, it's still pretty hot. So technically it is a hot water heater
Why does my drain plug have electric power running to it???
I have no idea. I shouldn't. Did you buy this rig used? If so maybe the previous owner did some thing screwy with it. It's a drain plug and that's it. Are you sure you're looking at the drain plug and not the heating element? 👍
Thanks
Great job, Thank you for the video
Thanks Mike. I have another video coming out soon on this subject. Flushing a water heater 2.0. So much more detailed. I hope your subbed. So stay tuned for that.
Thank you mine is going to be a mess.
Ed,
Watch my water heater 2.0 video also. Much more detail and I know you'll like it:
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
hey buddy in the attwood heater the water input is from the bottom not the top , This is to push the air out the top outlet of the tank , (Also hot water rises ) , you said water trickles in from the top ,,, Please check the OUTLET is on the top of the tank as it may have been plumbed incorect ,,,
Actually our water comes in from the top and is plumbed correctly. 👍
The reason you are told to not install brass plugs is due to the fact the oem "plastic plug" is a fail safe fail point incase the P&T valve fails.
Oh and also if you cross thread with the plastic plug you dont damage the tank, if you cross thread a brass plug you will need a new tank.
Martin, Big Thanks. Great job on All of your videos! I have already watched 6 or 7. Every one I have watched were well organized, insightful, and very helpful. I consider myself an average skilled Do-It-Yourselfer and handyman, so all of your tips look like things that I might want to try. Plus you seem to be able to find a few "hidden gems" that are new techniques or new ideas. Thanks! One Question: have you done any videos on how You Flat-tow (Dingy-tow) your pulled vehicle?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for the kind words. I have an extensive video coming out Sept 26th on how to be Safe and Legal while Flat towing. Hope you're subscribed so you'll be notified when it goes live. Also, I'd like to recommend watching my 2.0 video on servicing your water heater below. It's much more detailed and covers more things. I know you'll like it. 🔧👍
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful
Thank you.
I'd like to invite you to watch my 2.0 water heater video I just release 6 days ago. Much more detail and I also show you what it looks like inside the water heater.
th-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/w-d-xo.html