Thermal fuse went out on mine. Cold water for the rest of that trip. Later learned that I could have temporarily bypassed the fuse by connecting the two wires together, being sure to clean out any debris that may have caused it to burn out. I have a couple of spares on hand now. It’s also a good way to trouble shoot what might be the cause if a heater that won’t fire up. I thought it might have been the board, but this simple test proves it was the fuse.
I bypassed nine and it still has no hot water. I cant easily access the back of the damn thing to get to the heating element and replace it so im gonna have to pull the whole unit out just to do it because they just had to put it on the backside which i think is the worse possible place they could have put it for an rv.
The thermal fuse is there also because if a spider makes a nest in the forward section of the burner tube it can actually flame at the air mixer. Thirty years working on these rigs taught me that.
This was helpful, however, it would have been nice to have a closer look at the unit instead of all the wasted space around you. I didnt watch the suburban video because I have a dometic. It would have been helpful to get a more detailed overview of the parts instead of referencing the suburban. Thanks
my cutoff fuse blew and i dont use propane for anything in our rig. I havent had hot water all week on electric because after that piece blew no matter what i do its not getting even warm. There is barely any room in the crawl space in the back of where it is to get to and there is a big septic pvc pipe right in front of it. They dont install these things with consideration that someone will need to access the back of them. For this reason i hate the atwood models.
Thanks. Forgot to drain and cracked my aluminum tank at the heating element weld in the back. It’s about 3” long. Since Dometic doesn’t make these anymore I plan on having it welded. I’ve read people have had this done with no problem.
What I wouldn't give to get a resettable heat sensor instead of a one time fuse. I like the safety aspect, but we've been in some windy locations lately and it's gotten blown out with no obstructions in the heating path out multiple times due to wind hitting the back of the rig.
I just replaced a defective T&P valve on my Atwood Dometic hot water heater and noticed it is brass, so I bought a brass drain plug but haven't installed it yet, looks like I'll put the plastic one back in for now.
Hello, I’m a newbie and would like to know when I turn my switch on for my Atwood hot water tank what color of flame should I see? I’m getting yellow but I thought it should be blue in color.
I know what’s wrong and how to fix it. But I can’t do it until tomorrow. I’d like hot water tonight tho. All I need to know is Is it ok to manually light the pilot when the spark wire is broken??? The terminal or contact broke and it won’t spark. I can fix it myself tomorrow. I just need a shower now. lol.
We have this in our new Forest River Solera. We have read that to heat with electricity there should be a on off switch inside at the place this is installed. There is nothing like that. We switched it on inside the camper but it did not heat up the water. We are perplexed. We are new RVers and so far having a awful time finding info. Looked all through the 159 page booklet the FR community etc. I think allot has to do with supply issues and FR using other brands then normal. 🤷🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️
@ I’m trying to remember but I think that was one of the many things they didn’t hook up. So the dealer had to. Truly was a nightmare. But part of that was the dealerships repair department and their unorganized mess. Found another dealer with a very good repair department that were authorized with forest river. And things have gone great. Plus I have a person with For that I have email connection with.
Great video Todd. We got this water heater and had to change the check valve in the back. Now from what you said I guessing I wasn’t supposed to use the brass check valve?
Love your videos, Todd!!! So that ‘heat sensitive’ fuse that you showed us that will shut everything down if it melts through--then what? Am I just screwed for the rest of a trip, or is it replaceable and how difficult is that to do? Yes, we do have the Dometic gas/electric model. Another question I have is: is there any way to adjust the water temperature, other than blending hot/cold water at the faucet? Thanks for all your work on these videos-for an RVer, these are the most fun and interesting thing on TH-cam!
The Thermal fuse automatically resets. unless it's gone bad. It's not difficult to replace. Just make sure you have the correct part before it's replaced. On the Atwood / Dometic Water Heaters the temperature is set. So you'll need to adjust the temp at the faucet. There are multiple safety features on this water heater as well. The Drain plug is designed to melt as a certain temperature so that it doesn't cause a catastrophic failure. The P/T valve will also relieve pressure.
I have a Atwood water heater, When the tank is full with it off everything is dry, when the tank is full and I turn on the propane and water gets hot everything is dry. When tank is full and I turn in electric and water gets hot there starts a pretty good drip that appears to becoming from the outlet fittings. What’s happening here, doesn’t make sense
I have a mind twisting question. At least it twists my mind. I have that exact water heater you use in this video. Each year I do drain and winterize it. Shut it off and flush the RV anti freeze through out the other pipes. I do not fill my heater tank with anti freeze. Last time out using the rig. Every time I turned the hot water on to use. It came out rusty looking. I asked around and folks said my Anode rod was out, gone, missing. I go one and thinking I had the right one, based on the plug size. It would not go in as it was to long. Mind you it has a metal plug. I then found your video here. So if my tank is aluminon how is it I get rust? I have not modified anything on this system so it should all be factory set up?
Thanks everyone for answering my follow-up questions to your video. Can someone answer my last question: Is the 2nd fuse the 2 amp mini fuse or is it actually a a thermal wire type fuse. If wire type, where can I find it on the Domestic unit?
There’s 2 thermal fuses. One resets the propane side and other the electric. It would be best to replace both. But one should work if the other goes bad. They also aren’t that expensive.
@@NationalRVTrainingAcademy Is the 2nd fuse the 2amp mini fuse or is it actually a a thermal wire type fuse. If wire type, where can I find it on the Domestic unit?
The Thermal fuse is a separate safety device that it's part of the resettable fuses for a Dometic water heater. This would work for the reset fuses. a.co/d/3pgiPve
My dometic water heater when on propane is not burning the propane properly (yellow flame). Adjusting the air intake tube, cleaning that tube and blowing out the combustion chamber does not help. Any other suggestions?
I cleaned out calcium and my igniter light goes on but doesn't engage ..... the melt away is intact. The switch was bad as well but even connecting the leads together without a switch fails 🤔?
Yes. 1) Dometic will void the warranty as the plastic plug is a safety feature. It will pop out @ ~150 psi. 2) the plug is a service cable that should be opened more frequently. With brass /aluminum you will get galvanic corrosion. The more times you open the greater chance you gage of torquing above the tolerance of the aluminum threads. While far less times is the P&T valve ever wrenched off. 3) cause they don’t make an aluminum P&T?
Thanks for this video. I currently have an issue that after troubleshooting for a constantly running water pump, i have found that if i put the water system in bypass mode, the pump builds pressure and the turns off. thus the issue is with the water heater. Have you ever seen this situation ??? Thank you,
I’m pretty sure the Aluminum tank heaters use a plastic plug because they aren’t in need of a sacrificial anode to maintain the tank, which would be zinc. Any other metal introduced to the environment would be targeted for electrolysis and there’s no point in risking sediment build up in the tank at the drain.
Todd.. we have this water heater in our Grand Design 30 RBS Transcend Travel trailer. Question: now that I know we're the heating element is, how long does the element last and how hard is it to replace? We get clicking sounds sometimes. So we flush the water heater tank out about every 3 to 6 months, is this good thing?
I went to change out my pressure relief valve on my Atwood today (relief valve lever loose, doesn’t release pressure). I can’t get the old one to turn to be able to remove it, any ideas? I’ve remove the tin hovering around the outlet and tried removing with a vise grip). Any ideas??? Thanks
This may not pertain to this, but can I ask you a question I have an Atwood 6 gallon put new circuitboard on it and T-Stat everything‘s good but lights up Burns for about six seconds and the red wire at the circuitboard turn the power off to the solenoid for the gas. I don’t understand what’s going on do I have a defective circuit board
2023 domestic heater. Recently after freezing nights, a leak developed when I engage my water pump. No pump, no drip.. I haven't located where the drops are coming from or why. ???
What would cause a Atwood/dometic water heater to stop working on propane when you close the access panel ? Runs fine with the access panel open but as soon as you close it it stops working
Guys, Salvation is very Simple HalleluYAH “Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Heavenly Father YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE - Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses) - Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah) Isaiah 42:8 "I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.” Isaiah 43:11 “I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.” Isaiah 45:5 “I am YaH, and there is none else.”
A mistake in this video is to focus on the man not the heater. Why is the speaker in the frame while the heater is so far back we cannot see any details. Camera man is doing a poor job. Zoom in on the heater so we can see what he is talking about. Is there any purpose in keeping the speaker in the frame the whole time? Very poor camera work and common sense. You don't need film classes for this. This is the biggest problem with technical help. The explanation is very good. The camera work is very bad, so is the lighting. Get some diffused large light that cost $150 a pair and shine them on the heater so we can see exactly what is going on. Great video, and explanations are very clear. This is so useful, thank you!!! My water heater is tucked deep inside a kitchen cabinet and IMPOSSIBLE to access. Stupid manufacturers! So I am going to destroy the entire kitchen countertop (MDF and Formica heavy junk anyway) and flimsy stapled cabinets, and rebuild it with new appliances and real wood. I will make the water heater area accessible with a hinged countertop section that allows easy access from the top. Now I can service it by lifting hinged section up and bending over or from underneath. Much better! Everything should be modular in an RV and easily replaceable. The kitchen is also where the stove oven sits, and under it is the electrical section with charger and inputs. This area also needs to be made very accessible, so removing the countertop and breaking it into hinged sections makes sense. Replace the oven with a 4 burner stovetop with a quick disconnect valve, and hinged counter. Lift counter, and voila! Access to entire electrical inverter, charger section possible. How nice. There is zero reason why manufacturers cannot build better RVs. Lazy, greedy makers who sell us overpriced junk. By the way, if you can afford it, the Truma AquaGo water heater is the best. It can be hooked up to the engine glycol system and have the glycol recirculate into the water heater transferring engine heat into the water, so you seldom need to turn on the propane switch to get hot water. It is probably cheaper than the Dometic or Suburban and not finicky to clean out. Much better solution overall. The Truma Combi combines air heater and water heater, both heated by glycol as well as propane. Very efficient system. Not sold retail but only at installers.
Would the thermal fuse make the water heater not fire? Fuse in rv is good, will not light in fact no power. The battery is good. Or is it the circuit board
can you use 1/2" inch threads Atwood heaters Magnesium Anode Rod For RV, Camper and Trailer Water Heaters? will it -Extends the life of your water heater by preventing corrosion? fits Atwood water heaters?
So no it is NOT recommended to use anode rods in the Atwood/Dometic water heater. Dometic will void the warranty if one is installed. No need for an anode rod in the Atwood/Dometic as the tank is made of Aluminum.
I bought a brass petcock drain valve for the Atwood water heater. Will the brass petcock drain valve work if it is wrapped in plumbers tape and not 'freeze' together or will it still react with the brass? Trying to decide if I should put it in or just stay with the plastic plugs.
So the gas works good when both switches (gas and electric) are on but when I turn off the electric switch the gas goes out??? Then I turn electric switch back on the gas reignites and stay on. Any ideas???
Thanks Todd. We recently had our hot water heater and black and gray tanks cleaned and the person recommended a type of anode rod for aluminum hwh. Is that safe?
Make sure your water heater bypass valves are not bypassing heater. Most rv when winterized have valves that allow you to completely bypass the water heater. That way you can completely drain water heater and if you need water temporally you can turn on water and it won’t fill water heater tank. Don’t run heater with no water in tank.
Thermal fuse went out on mine. Cold water for the rest of that trip. Later learned that I could have temporarily bypassed the fuse by connecting the two wires together, being sure to clean out any debris that may have caused it to burn out. I have a couple of spares on hand now. It’s also a good way to trouble shoot what might be the cause if a heater that won’t fire up. I thought it might have been the board, but this simple test proves it was the fuse.
I bypassed nine and it still has no hot water. I cant easily access the back of the damn thing to get to the heating element and replace it so im gonna have to pull the whole unit out just to do it because they just had to put it on the backside which i think is the worse possible place they could have put it for an rv.
The thermal fuse is there also because if a spider makes a nest in the forward section of the burner tube it can actually flame at the air mixer. Thirty years working on these rigs taught me that.
Thanks Todd. So I will be sure to have some spare plastic plugs in the unit. This was great even if you were being harassed from behind the camera.
This was helpful, however, it would have been nice to have a closer look at the unit instead of all the wasted space around you. I didnt watch the suburban video because I have a dometic. It would have been helpful to get a more detailed overview of the parts instead of referencing the suburban. Thanks
my cutoff fuse blew and i dont use propane for anything in our rig. I havent had hot water all week on electric because after that piece blew no matter what i do its not getting even warm. There is barely any room in the crawl space in the back of where it is to get to and there is a big septic pvc pipe right in front of it. They dont install these things with consideration that someone will need to access the back of them. For this reason i hate the atwood models.
Thanks. Forgot to drain and cracked my aluminum tank at the heating element weld in the back. It’s about 3” long. Since Dometic doesn’t make these anymore I plan on having it welded. I’ve read people have had this done with no problem.
Did having your tank welded work?
What I wouldn't give to get a resettable heat sensor instead of a one time fuse. I like the safety aspect, but we've been in some windy locations lately and it's gotten blown out with no obstructions in the heating path out multiple times due to wind hitting the back of the rig.
The pressure relief valve is brass. Why couldn’t you use a brass plug?
I just replaced a defective T&P valve on my Atwood Dometic hot water heater and noticed it is brass, so I bought a brass drain plug but haven't installed it yet, looks like I'll put the plastic one back in for now.
Great video the fuse blew on mine so easy fix thanks!
Tanks for the video, really helpful, question, where I can buy a new because my star leaks I don’t know from where
Love the outtakes! Cracked me up!
Hello, I’m a newbie and would like to know when I turn my switch on for my Atwood hot water tank what color of flame should I see? I’m getting yellow but I thought it should be blue in color.
I know what’s wrong and how to fix it. But I can’t do it until tomorrow. I’d like hot water tonight tho. All I need to know is
Is it ok to manually light the pilot when the spark wire is broken??? The terminal or contact broke and it won’t spark. I can fix it myself tomorrow. I just need a shower now. lol.
Well, I'm glad I have the Atwood model in my toy hauler.
We have this in our new Forest River Solera. We have read that to heat with electricity there should be a on off switch inside at the place this is installed.
There is nothing like that. We switched it on inside the camper but it did not heat up the water. We are perplexed. We are new RVers and so far having a awful time finding info. Looked all through the 159 page booklet the FR community etc. I think allot has to do with supply issues and FR using other brands then normal. 🤷🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️
If it is a suburban water heater it will be located on the water heater in the lower left hand corner. It’s tucked away.
@@NationalRVTrainingAcademy No it's a Domestic. I have photos. But don't think I can attach them here.
Did you figure it out cuz mine is doing same thing and I noticed he didn't answer
@ I’m trying to remember but I think that was one of the many things they didn’t hook up. So the dealer had to. Truly was a nightmare. But part of that was the dealerships repair department and their unorganized mess. Found another dealer with a very good repair department that were authorized with forest river. And things have gone great. Plus I have a person with For that I have email connection with.
Good tip thank-you. Love the retakes 😅
Great video Todd. We got this water heater and had to change the check valve in the back. Now from what you said I guessing I wasn’t supposed to use the brass check valve?
Are you planning on doing a video on the Furrion tankless water heaters?
The controller circuit board by Atwood was a free replacement by Domatic for me it failed right away .
Love your videos, Todd!!! So that ‘heat sensitive’ fuse that you showed us that will shut everything down if it melts through--then what? Am I just screwed for the rest of a trip, or is it replaceable and how difficult is that to do? Yes, we do have the Dometic gas/electric model. Another question I have is: is there any way to adjust the water temperature, other than blending hot/cold water at the faucet? Thanks for all your work on these videos-for an RVer, these are the most fun and interesting thing on TH-cam!
The Thermal fuse automatically resets. unless it's gone bad. It's not difficult to replace. Just make sure you have the correct part before it's replaced. On the Atwood / Dometic Water Heaters the temperature is set. So you'll need to adjust the temp at the faucet. There are multiple safety features on this water heater as well. The Drain plug is designed to melt as a certain temperature so that it doesn't cause a catastrophic failure. The P/T valve will also relieve pressure.
Finally I have found….”The RV Whisperer” !!!
How do you get the plastic nipples repaired on the inlet and outlet if they are leaking?
What about the brass safety valve? Would it freez in place?
I have a Atwood water heater, When the tank is full with it off everything is dry, when the tank is full and I turn on the propane and water gets hot everything is dry. When tank is full and I turn in electric and water gets hot there starts a pretty good drip that appears to becoming from the outlet fittings. What’s happening here, doesn’t make sense
I have a mind twisting question. At least it twists my mind. I have that exact water heater you use in this video. Each year I do drain and winterize it. Shut it off and flush the RV anti freeze through out the other pipes. I do not fill my heater tank with anti freeze. Last time out using the rig. Every time I turned the hot water on to use. It came out rusty looking. I asked around and folks said my Anode rod was out, gone, missing. I go one and thinking I had the right one, based on the plug size. It would not go in as it was to long. Mind you it has a metal plug. I then found your video here. So if my tank is aluminon how is it I get rust? I have not modified anything on this system so it should all be factory set up?
The tank doesn’t rust. But the heating element inside can.
@@NationalRVTrainingAcademy Thank you for that.
Thanks everyone for answering my follow-up questions to your video. Can someone answer my last question: Is the 2nd fuse the 2 amp mini fuse or is it actually a a thermal wire type fuse. If wire type, where can I find it on the Domestic unit?
use this link. a.co/d/3pgiPve
I wondered why my plug was plastic. Thanks for the tip. If my employer insists on the jab my backup plan is coming to Texas to the school!
Do you know of a 12V water heater element to replace the 120V heating element?
Todd, great video! Can you confirm that the electric side of the water heater will also not work when the heat fuse goes bad. Thanks!
That is correct. 12v fuse will run both the 120v and propane operation. If the fuse blows then it will not work.
There’s 2 thermal fuses. One resets the propane side and other the electric. It would be best to replace both. But one should work if the other goes bad. They also aren’t that expensive.
@@NationalRVTrainingAcademy Is the 2nd fuse the 2amp mini fuse or is it actually a a thermal wire type fuse. If wire type, where can I find it on the Domestic unit?
The Thermal fuse is a separate safety device that it's part of the resettable fuses for a Dometic water heater. This would work for the reset fuses. a.co/d/3pgiPve
Do the aluminum water heaters still scale up and should they be cleaned with vinegar?
My dometic water heater when on propane is not burning the propane properly (yellow flame). Adjusting the air intake tube, cleaning that tube and blowing out the combustion chamber does not help. Any other suggestions?
I cleaned out calcium and my igniter light goes on but doesn't engage ..... the melt away is intact. The switch was bad as well but even connecting the leads together without a switch fails 🤔?
Todd, can you tell us why we can’t use a brass plug in place of the plastic one when the water relief valve is brass. I’m curious. Thanks
Yes.
1) Dometic will void the warranty as the plastic plug is a safety feature. It will pop out @ ~150 psi.
2) the plug is a service cable that should be opened more frequently. With brass /aluminum you will get galvanic corrosion. The more times you open the greater chance you gage of torquing above the tolerance of the aluminum threads. While far less times is the P&T valve ever wrenched off.
3) cause they don’t make an aluminum P&T?
Thanks for this video. I currently have an issue that after troubleshooting for a constantly running water pump, i have found that if i put the water system in bypass mode, the pump builds pressure and the turns off. thus the issue is with the water heater. Have you ever seen this situation ??? Thank you,
Don't forget to check out this week's Q&A tech tip, where Todd answers your question!
Thank you for the heat fuse idea!
Awesome informative video..thanks for sharing... My question is where I can find one with 6 gallons tank, any ideas..?
Amazon has them. Just search for 6 gallon Dometic water heater. E-trailer.com also has them.
Do I have to have a water heater if I don’t use it
Great video. Answered several questions I had. THANK YOU. I enjoy your channel.
That heat fuse is a great idea and should be standard on all water heaters. How do you replace it if it's a one time use fuse?
You can just get replacements on Amazon for cheap.
Spade terminal connections, hold one end carefully pull connection apart. New thermal fuse plugs right in if not badly burned.
What do you search for when looking for a fuse? Just the model # and fuse?
I’m pretty sure the Aluminum tank heaters use a plastic plug because they aren’t in need of a sacrificial anode to maintain the tank, which would be zinc. Any other metal introduced to the environment would be targeted for electrolysis and there’s no point in risking sediment build up in the tank at the drain.
that is correct.
Todd.. we have this water heater in our Grand Design 30 RBS Transcend Travel trailer. Question: now that I know we're the heating element is, how long does the element last and how hard is it to replace?
We get clicking sounds sometimes. So we flush the water heater tank out about every 3 to 6 months, is this good thing?
I went to change out my pressure relief valve on my Atwood today (relief valve lever loose, doesn’t release pressure). I can’t get the old one to turn to be able to remove it, any ideas? I’ve remove the tin hovering around the outlet and tried removing with a vise grip). Any ideas??? Thanks
Question: Which unit is better, Steel tank or Aluminum tank?
This may not pertain to this, but can I ask you a question I have an Atwood 6 gallon put new circuitboard on it and T-Stat everything‘s good but lights up Burns for about six seconds and the red wire at the circuitboard turn the power off to the solenoid for the gas. I don’t understand what’s going on do I have a defective circuit board
how often should the heating element on a dometic rv water heater be replaced
2023 domestic heater. Recently after freezing nights, a leak developed when I engage my water pump. No pump, no drip..
I haven't located where the drops are coming from or why. ???
Which digits are the year and which digits are the month on the Atwood Dometic water heaters’ serial# to determine it's age?
If Atwood doesn't have a anode rod why does the hot water have a nasty smell?
Following, we have a rotten egg smell which i would think could be solved by an anode. We are on well water, with a softener.
....hmmm, the T&P valve is brass. Is this not a dissimilar metal conflict? Is the boss stainless steel where the T&P screws in?
What would cause a Atwood/dometic water heater to stop working on propane when you close the access panel ?
Runs fine with the access panel open but as soon as you close it it stops working
Great information! Thank you! Merry Christmas!
Happy holidays!
Guys, Salvation is very Simple
HalleluYAH “Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Heavenly Father
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
- Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses)
- Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
Isaiah 42:8
"I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.”
Isaiah 43:11
“I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.”
Isaiah 45:5
“I am YaH, and there is none else.”
My Atwood water heater was singing, if it doesn't have a anarod then what could the singing be ?
A mistake in this video is to focus on the man not the heater. Why is the speaker in the frame while the heater is so far back we cannot see any details. Camera man is doing a poor job. Zoom in on the heater so we can see what he is talking about. Is there any purpose in keeping the speaker in the frame the whole time? Very poor camera work and common sense. You don't need film classes for this. This is the biggest problem with technical help. The explanation is very good. The camera work is very bad, so is the lighting. Get some diffused large light that cost $150 a pair and shine them on the heater so we can see exactly what is going on.
Great video, and explanations are very clear. This is so useful, thank you!!!
My water heater is tucked deep inside a kitchen cabinet and IMPOSSIBLE to access. Stupid manufacturers! So I am going to destroy the entire kitchen countertop (MDF and Formica heavy junk anyway) and flimsy stapled cabinets, and rebuild it with new appliances and real wood. I will make the water heater area accessible with a hinged countertop section that allows easy access from the top. Now I can service it by lifting hinged section up and bending over or from underneath. Much better! Everything should be modular in an RV and easily replaceable.
The kitchen is also where the stove oven sits, and under it is the electrical section with charger and inputs. This area also needs to be made very accessible, so removing the countertop and breaking it into hinged sections makes sense. Replace the oven with a 4 burner stovetop with a quick disconnect valve, and hinged counter. Lift counter, and voila! Access to entire electrical inverter, charger section possible. How nice. There is zero reason why manufacturers cannot build better RVs. Lazy, greedy makers who sell us overpriced junk.
By the way, if you can afford it, the Truma AquaGo water heater is the best. It can be hooked up to the engine glycol system and have the glycol recirculate into the water heater transferring engine heat into the water, so you seldom need to turn on the propane switch to get hot water. It is probably cheaper than the Dometic or Suburban and not finicky to clean out. Much better solution overall. The Truma Combi combines air heater and water heater, both heated by glycol as well as propane. Very efficient system. Not sold retail but only at installers.
Would the thermal fuse make the water heater not fire? Fuse in rv is good, will not light in fact no power. The battery is good. Or is it the circuit board
if the thermal fuse is bad ?, the whole unit will not operate.
Thanks for these great videos
can you use 1/2" inch threads Atwood heaters Magnesium Anode Rod For RV, Camper and Trailer Water Heaters?
will it -Extends the life of your water heater by preventing corrosion? fits Atwood water heaters?
So no it is NOT recommended to use anode rods in the Atwood/Dometic water heater. Dometic will void the warranty if one is installed.
No need for an anode rod in the Atwood/Dometic as the tank is made of Aluminum.
I bought a brass petcock drain valve for the Atwood water heater. Will the brass petcock drain valve work if it is wrapped in plumbers tape and not 'freeze' together or will it still react with the brass? Trying to decide if I should put it in or just stay with the plastic plugs.
It voids the warranty from Dometic/Atwood.
Could it work? Yes. It all depends on how well you wrap it.
traveling w/propane on does NOT have anything to do with/hinder use of the water heater UNLESS the propane switch is in the ON position???
So the gas works good when both switches (gas and electric) are on but when I turn off the electric switch the gas goes out??? Then I turn electric switch back on the gas reignites and stay on. Any ideas???
It does work on electric alone.
Thanks Todd. We recently had our hot water heater and black and gray tanks cleaned and the person recommended a type of anode rod for aluminum hwh. Is that safe?
so it’s not needed at all and Dometic will void the warranty if you install one.
Awesome video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Hello, my rv has this heater but the electrical isn't working - only the propane. How can I fix that?
You can learn this and more at rvtechcourse.com. Also, you can go to rvtaa.org/locate to find a certified tech in your area.
Your ECO or T-STAT or both might be bad.
where is the rv hot water heating element for ATWOOD G6A-8E it is not on the backside in your demo...
Is this unit electric as well?
How hard is it to just replace the tank?
Or an inch and a 16th socket to get that drain cap off
Thanks god bless
Thanks, you too
Hola! No sé como poner en funcionamientoel calentador de agua dometic en mi rv , podrían ayudarme con instrucciones en español? Gracias
mira este enlace tiene el manual de usuario en español. espero que esto ayude.
es.manuals.plus/dometic/l-p-gas-water-heater-manual#axzz7gDYsgmFC
Thanks great job god bless
thank you
My Attwood won't give me hot water. It ignites but no hot water. What should I be looking for? Thankyou
Make sure your water heater bypass valves are not bypassing heater. Most rv when winterized have valves that allow you to completely bypass the water heater. That way you can completely drain water heater and if you need water temporally you can turn on water and it won’t fill water heater tank. Don’t run heater with no water in tank.
Isn't the TPR brass?
Now I know why plastic and not brass.
Is Toddd loosing it?