Have you done all this? ✅ SUBSCRIBE: enjoythejourney.life/TH-cam ➡ Subscribe by Email: enjoythejourney.life/newsletter ✅ Click ⬇⬇⬇"READ MORE"⬇⬇⬇ for links to our favorite RV resources, gadgets, gear, & FREE stuff! Meet Tom & Cheri at the Tampa RV Show! Friday, January 20th 3 - 4 p.m. Follow us on social media below or sign up for our newsletter for more details enjoythejourney.life/newsletter Part 1 video: Black Tank Masterclass th-cam.com/video/fs7YE9hmD7k/w-d-xo.html 1" Fittings Brush amzn.to/3QGjjgC Camco Aluminum Anode Rod amzn.to/3IQpE7B Anode Rod for Atwood Heatersamzn.to/3QH5U88 Camco Water Heater Tank Rinser amzn.to/3kl8lRN Long Cleaning Brush amzn.to/3CRMWpP Best Fresh Water Hose amzn.to/3XzQnsW Valterra Flush King amzn.to/3Gp90Je Save a Drop P3 Blue Water Flow Meter amzn.to/3QsV8Cy Contact Jim at Kleen Tank: kleentank.com/ askkleentank.com/ Call 844-KLEENME (844-553-3663) email info@kleentank.com Tom's Beginner's Guide To RVing Course (free with subscription) Best RV Routes, campsites & more! enjoythejourney.life/rvtripwizard (25% off with code: ENJOY25) FREE TRAUMA/PTSD TEST forms.gle/LFSg2TyK23ev7aT78 (track your score, 20+ is PTSD) 🌞 Cheri can help enjoythejourney.life/cheri (96% success treating depression, PTSD, anxiety, shame & more.) 🔋 Best RV Gadget 2023! softstartup.com/Enjoythejourney/ 🚲 LECTRIC EBIKES! Get the best price on the same e-bikes Tom & Cheri have enjoythejourney.life/ebikes (or mention Enjoy the Journey if you call in (602) 715-0907) 📰 BEST RV WARRANTY enjoythejourney.life/warranty SOLAR! ETRAILER & GO POWER! enjoythejourney.life/solar & enjoythejourney.life/inverter 🔋 Save 5% OFF Enduro Power lithium batteries enjoythejourney.life/enduro or mention 'Enjoy the Journey' if you call 720-802-0329 💦 Blu Tech R3 (the same water filter Tom & Cheri have) enjoythejourney.life/water (Save 10% off code ENJOY10) or on Amazon: amzn.to/3xqRiAu ➡ JOIN US, secret videos, live streams, current location, TH-cam creator tips & MORE! enjoythejourney.life/join ✅ MERCH! T-SHIRTS & MORE! teespring.com/stores/enjoythejourney 👍 Quick Start Guide: How to Make Money & RV & FREE RV Campsite Setup & Breakdown Checklist(s) enjoythejourney.life/newsletter 🎉 LIVE TH-cam CREATOR Q & A WITH TOM & FREE PDF DOWNLOAD eepurl.com/hrNi6P 📶 HOW DO WE GET INTERNET? enjoythejourney.life/speed (🤑 SAVE 5% OFF!) SAVE BIG ON RV DIESEL! enjoythejourney.life/RVfuel (mention Thomas Kenemore) Lippert (LCI) 24/7 RV tech support chat, videos & more enjoythejourney.life/LCI or call 432-LIPPERT Get all your truck, towing, RV needs & more enjoythejourney.life/Etrailer SHOP OUR AMAZON STORE www.amazon.com/shop/enjoythejourney.life **** SOCIAL: Follow us & share with your friends **** Join the 'Journey Tribe': enjoythejourney.life/join Subscribe to our TH-cam channel: enjoythejourney.life/TH-cam Subscribe to our Podcast: anchor.fm/enjoy-the-journey-life Subscribe to our newsletter for updates: enjoythejourney.life/newsletter Join our Facebook Group: enjoythejourney.life/group Facebook Page: facebook.com/EnjoyTheJourney.Life Instagram: instagram.com/enjoythejourney.life TikTok www.tiktok.com/@enjoythejourney.life Website: enjoythejourney.life/ **** FAVORITE RV PARKING & CAMPSITE FINDERS! **** Best RV Routes, campsites & Tom's Beginner's Guide To RVing Course (free with subscription) enjoythejourney.life/rvtripwizard (25% off with code: ENJOY25) Get $100 off a Thousand Trails camping pass! Contact Aaron Aaron_Massa@equitylifestyle.com or 360-489-4407 or contact Kimberly for a "used" membership enjoythejourney.life/TT or 800-272-0401 (mention Tom Kenemore if you call in) RV FREE at wineries, breweries, golf courses & more (save 15% off with code: HHFRIENDS15) enjoythejourney.life/HH FREE RV parking (save 15% off with code: BWFRIENDS15) enjoythejourney.life/boondockers100K Thanks for using our links! Tom & Cheri’ :) **** CONTACT US **** Email: tomandcheri@enjoythejourney.life Mail Bag: Lake Effect Media 14870 Granada Avenue 1037 Apple Valley, MN 55124 Tom & Cheri, Full-time RV travelers sharing our adventures (and challenges), advice and more from the road. Inspiring others to do it now and live life on their terms, a life of freedom and adventure. 😍 Enjoy The Journey . Life, All Rights Reserved Our channel is for entertainment purposes only. We are not RV or travel experts. We share our opinions and what has worked and not worked for us in the past. Before taking any action or making a purchase decision, you should do your own research. Some of our links are affiliate links. We may make a small commission if you use our links which helps support our channel. Thank you! #rvliving #rvlife #RV
Thank you for showing the ROD, having worked in the Public water system, have had customers complain about smell and water problems in the home water system Can tell you with WELL water that the tips that this guy says is amazing 😊😊😊 We had iron & Maganze issues in the water system, but water was not treated Great well water. This is something an RVer needs to do, don't let it slide Always have a professional clean out your system. No matter what you think. Believe me. In my experience as an operator of a water system, especially small private RV parks that have their own WELLS. You MUST always Filter your water coming into the RV or do this like the video says. Don't expect your water tank to be "OK" just because you are hooked up to a domestic water spicket. Always Filet your water coming in. But a spicket water filter just saying in my Humble opinion as a manager of a small public water system
No the anode rod is NOT in bad shape. Until it gets down to pencil size rod that’s when you replace it. It’s supposed to look like that because it’s doing its job of falling apart to protect the tank. That anode rod has many many months of protection left.
When to replace your anode is at your discretion. But since many RVers don't replace them with regularity, we recommend a best practice standard. You would be surprised at how many RVers never even clean out their water heater tanks!
We have been camping about once a month and average 4 nights per stay. Something I came across on TH-cam before we bought our trailer was to drain the water heater after each trip to reduce wear on leaving water in the tank. I have done this religiously and to this day the anode rod is still looking very good after 2 years. We do use mainly State Campgrounds in Oregon which likely has better water which I am sure helps. Great maintenance video. I think water heater maintenance is for sure something that doesn't get done as often and this is a great reminder.
Not sure this is a good idea. When you drain the tank, there is still water in the bottom 2 inches. The tank will corrode but the anode will not protect it because the water is not contacting the anode. Thus you are protecting the anode rod but you are not protecting the bottom of the tank.
Omg. I'm soooo glad I came across this video. We bought an rv in October & have been living in it full time. Never knew about this. Thank you sooo much
The tank cleaning video and this one were very informative. I have owned 4 RV's myself and transport RV's, at times helping people set up. Boy have I been wrong on tank advise. I now stand corrected. Thanks again for the great videos!
Im glad I ran across this video. I just got a 2008 K-Z Coyote that was given to me, and this is my first RV. This is something i didn`t know about. I will be checking this today.
No doubt ur repair and maintenance vids r not only good to know, but also very important to know. Definitely I truly appreciate these kind of vids, as I too dwell full-time in an RV. Awesome info guys. Sincere thumbs up.
Me three. I don't leave it empty though due to deposites that may dry up and form a crust. I for sure drain, flush, and fill before every trip. I also fill my fresh to the top with a few cap fulls of bleach and drain before I go out. Never know what could be growing in there lol.
If you want to avoid the "Hot Shower" as shown at 4:50; open the pressure relief valve and both the Low Line & water heater valves found on the bottom outside of your trailer. Some valves are in the inside but they drain out side under the trailer. Most of the time you'll two little hoses hanging down from the bottom of the trailer. They are usually quarter or half turn valves. after it stops draining then remove the plug that is attached to the water heater. You'll get about a pint of water and can replace your anode rod. The water will all drain out and you stay dry & unharmed.
After opening the pressure release valve and releasing the pressure just close it back off before removing the anode rod. This will minimize the initial rush of water and it can then be reopened if you want to speed up the draining process.
@@herb7877 Sorry, I was in the process of editing my comment earlier to say I wasn’t contradicting yours but I got interrupted and never got back to it. Not every RV has those two drain hoses. Leaving the release valve closed (as well as all faucets) restricts the air flow behind the water and slows down the drainage.
I learned a lesson a few days back. Don't forget to make sure your rv water tank is SHUT OFF and cold before you take out the heater element. Also open the pressure valve.
Thanks for this great vid Tom! - I've been an RVer for years and have a Suburban HWT. I was missing an important step in leaving the pressure valve open when refilling the tank, and often had to "burp" it later - not knowing why. - Cheers!
We needed this advice but are out in the mountains in a tiny town right at the moment. Hoping to find an rv repair guy to do a clean out if possible. We just started having the relief valve release water and it has that chalky sediment. I do appreciate your videos especially the instructional!
I would hope for the sake of contamination of drinking water supply there is a back flow device somewhere on this cleaning unit. But awesome video for the RV community. Thanks Tom
Absolutely! All of our processes employ back flow protection so as not to contaminate any supply. We recommend the RV owner use adequate processes and protection as well.
Performed the cleaning with 5 gallons of white vinegar, heated over night and drained on my Atwood 10 gallon water heater and drained the next day with zero "flakes" coming out (16 year old RV !). Turns out that some of the Atwood water heaters don't need sacrificial anodes because the tanks are made of aluminum. Good exercise :)
@@Rosemunchkin1 I fill my Atwood tank with Vinegar by unscrewing the pressure relief valve and using a transmission fluid oil spout I got from Walmart. It works perfectly and was only $5. Be sure to put thread tape back on the valve before screwing it back in.
Thanks for making this informative video! We have a 2017 GD Imagine TT with an Atwood W/H. I never knew that after about 4-5 years we need to install a anode rod. I used your links to buy the brushes but your link for the rod was a 2 pack for $12. Jim said not to buy them as the quality was not good. I went to Amazon and bought the Camco 1 rod pack for $17. Thanks again for all you do & look forward to seeing your next video!
When we get home from every trip I pull the anode rod out of my water heater and drain the tank leaving it empty until I prep for next trip. So far, I have been using the same rod for 3 years. It still looks like new. !
I lived in a Montana 5th wheel for several years in Key West and it seemed as though I was having to refill my propane tanks too often. Opening the outside cover for the water heater, I found the outside rocker switch was frozen, I also noticed a stain coming from a small drip on the pressure safety valve. After shutting off the Propane I drained my tank and removed the anode, which was down to a rusted metal rod. I then removed the pressure safety valve, heating element and the electrical rocker switch. While all the openings were clear I used a pressure nozzle on my garden hose to flush the tank through the pressure valve opening. The amount of calcium deposits that started coming out of the lower openings looked like the water heater was barfing calcium chunks! After installing the new safety valve, anode, heating element and rocker switch, I filled the tank and switched the water heater to electric function. Being in Key West, I never ran my furnace for heat and with my now “good as new” water heater working on electric, I only used propane for cooking on my stove top. With two 30-pound propane tanks and about one year to go until retirement, I never filled my tanks again. Not only that, but when I was running the water heater on propane, I would get up in the morning, switch on the water heater and wait until I had hot water. Now that it was on electric mode, I always had hot water, ready to go!
So what I have done as i'm a full timer since 2016 is I shut off the hot water tank, wash all of the dishes with the hot water and run out the hot water until it's look warm. I also never open up the pressure relief valve to release the pressure because I find that you get some corrosion in the valve and after doing it a few times the valve leaks and you end up with ice everywhere if you are winter camping. I have had to replace the Pressure release valve many times, so much that I bought the socket on amazon to help remove and replace easier. I just open up the hot water taps in the trailer. I am also hearing stories about those clean out wands ( the same one I have) snapping off and getting stuck in the tank, people are suggesting a metal wand to prevent that from happening.
Gotta go with the Aluminum Zinc anode rods, or another alternative rather than the standard rods. They cost just a few bucks more but they'll steer clear of the dreaded "rotten egg" sulfur smell that the standard rods often inevitably lead to. .
When I drain for winter, I rinse it well then twist a paper towel and insert the end in the hole so it comes in contact with whatever water is left. With capillary action the remaining water drain from the bottom. I leave the paper towel in over winter to keep any foreign objects from entering. Come Spring I rerinse the tank to get rid of any scale that may have broken loose.
I'm a newly, and this is my 2nd year, and when winterizing and de-winterizeing, I've never seen a anode rod come out, when emptying the water heater. I have a 2016 Sunset trail, 2nd owner.
Thank you Tom and Jim for sharing this information. I can't believe I watched both videos all the way through, but learned a ton of useful information. Now, all I need to do is buy and RV. 😁😁😁
Guys, Here is The Savior YaH The Heavenly FATHER (Genesis 1) HIMSELF was Who they Crucified/Pierced for our sins and “HERE IS THE PROOF” From the Ancient Semitic: "Yad He Vav He" is what Moshe (Moses) wrote, when Moses asked YaH His Name (Exodus 3) Ancient Semitic Direct Translation Yad - "Behold The Hand" He - "Behold the Breath" Vav - "Behold The NAIL"
after watching these videos I just want to go out and flush my black and gray tanks. I've ordered the flush wand for my water heater. THANK YOU for sharing these videos. I'm definitely a follower. who knows - I might consider Jim's company for a side business
If the hot water rank don't have expansion belly, for the pressure, then you have to crank open a tap to drip so no pressure builds up. I learned that the hard way, blew my seals out in bathroom faucet, was leaking water for awhile before I found out.
Hey Tom, Hey Cheri, was real nice meeting you at the Content Creators meet up as well as the Tampa RV Show - Hope to meet up with you again another day, somewhere on the road - safe travels Lance from Canada (currently traveling the USA)
Guys, Here is The Savior HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Heavenly Father YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE - Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses) - Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah) Isaiah 42:8 "I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols. Isaiah 43:11 I, I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me. Isaiah 45:5 I am YaH, and there is none else.
Great information about water heater maintenance .. I remove my anode rod every fall when I am winterizing my RV and draining my hot water tank , I remove it and leave it out during the winter .. I check the anode and replace it every year or two as needed .. I do buy the two packs but have never had any water pressure issues with Camco or the cheaper anodes however .. Great idea about getting a 1 inch fitting brush to clean the threads and using a flushing nozzle to flush the tank , great video ..
Loved this video and part 1. I’ve watched a number of your videos and they are very informative while also being unbiased, I do appreciate the content that you provide. The following is merely a consumption based observation. I don’t love the seemingly endless ads I experience during your videos. Your videos tend to be longer than most that I watch on TH-cam, and I refuse to pay for ad free content, so it’s likely that both are combining to create a more frustrating experience. I’m not a content creator and I don’t know the obstacles or challenges that you face to create your content, I’m just trying to share share my obstacles when viewing content that I want to see, and the things that might discourage me from viewing it.
You do not have to view the ad/video, simply Touch ➡️ SKIP! The channel does Earn money from viewing ad videos BUT again it's NOT Manditory to watch them!!
@@dharobed3329 I’m aware, but the skip feature isn’t always available right away and this video had more Ad’s than most that I watch, but thanks for your incredibly informative comment.
Very helpfull. My Suburban water heater is 17 yrs old. On 2nd anoid. Current anoid is still clean and like your new one in video. It is like the better Camco one. My camper is only used a few weekends a year and 95% at 1 campground which has good well water. I can see doing the flushing this spring. Good tip! Hope I don't need a new water heater in the near future. My camper was built in Nov 2005.
@@kleentank the first anoid came with the camper. I bought it used 3 yrs old. Didn't check it till 2 yrs later as the camper was in dry storage. The 1st anoid was down to a 1/8" skinny rod. So it was replaced start of 2012. The 2nd one is pulled and inspected at end of every season (only 5.5 month season here in upper Wisconsin). As soon as I see wear, it will be replaced again. May need your tank flushing services. Don't know if you travel from Northern Illinois all the way north to Pelican Lake, WI. (Map it) Could be a 5 hr drive 1-way for you. Water is on from maybe mid April to early Oct.
Guys, Here is The Savior HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Heavenly Father YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE - Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses) - Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah) Isaiah 42:8 "I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols. Isaiah 43:11 I, I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me. Isaiah 45:5 I am YaH, and there is none else.
Glad both of you guys know the right term for what you are talking about. It is a water heater or a hot water tank. Not a HOT water heater. Why would you want to heat hot water?
14:45 The cheaper anode rods are usually magnesium which doesn't last as long as aluminum. There's nothing wrong with using magnesium rods if they are lasting a year or more. If they aren't you should be using aluminum.
I just subscribed the only issue I was having is the switch for the water heater was not moving and I didn’t want to brake it but after a day I went back and applied force and it worked but now it won’t go back to the off position, oh well I can deal with that after the trip.
Your Atwood (now, Dometic) water heater has a two year factory warranty. Installing an anode rod in that two year period will void the warranty. That being said, about year three to five, depending on use, we do see corrosion coming out of the water heater and recommend the installation of an anode rod to slow down the process.
I understand your earlier reply to my comment and since I have full timed for five years now most people don’t do preventive maintenance on any part of their rv. But again I’m only asking that you show a bad part and state it needs replacing, not a good part and tell people it’s bad. People look to you for good advice - please give them good advice.
Jim does a great service to remind us that a little maintenance is required and necessary to give longer life and best operation of our water heaters. I will suggest a little better description would be to refer to it as a “sacrificial anode” or “sacrificial rod”. The sacrificial anode is a simple and effective way to utilize a natural process called galvanic corrosion. The type of metal selected for the sacrificial anode will be more reactive than the metal of the tank and heating element therefore “sacrificing” itself and minimizing effects of corrosion on the rest of the heater. When the “anode” is pitted or has small barnacles on it you know it’s working to protect you water heater. If it’s minor pitting you can clean it up and reuse it since there’s lots of the anode remaining to sacrifice. However, if in doubt, just replace the sacrificial anode. Doing the maintenance is the key part. The science is an interesting side note. BTW, the same science is applied to our outboard motors. There’s a sacrificial anode on the leg to help protect it from corrosion and give you long service life. Thanks to Jim and everyone for the discussion. Happy RVing. 😁
@@familycordina4812 water softeners use salt to create a brine that cleans the water softener system .. No salt is added to your water. That's a MYTH spread by people who don't understand how water softeners work... He's full of it
We bought a used trailer and the water heater was completely full so we took it out put a gallon of CLR and they're waited a couple of days and four great out like milky water
22 วันที่ผ่านมา
Good video, however that anode was about 30% worn, it was still useable.
You want to adjust temperature some water heater models have adjust on burner tube to a get a blue flame. At the same time some systems have mixer valves to help with temp.
Another great tip video. Thank you for sharing. Question: Jim said don't buy the anode rods in 2 packs, but your link for the Atwood anode rods is for a 2 pack. Is this an exception?
This was really informative. Thank you for putting this up. I'm trying to do my homework on things that I'm going to need to stay on top of when I get my trailer soon.
It would not hurt to add a sealant on the bottom lip of the tank, where it meets the floor and wall to prevent water from seeping in to the floor and wall.
Great video, and thanks for the information regarding the Atwood water heater. That's what my RV has, and I am very aware of anodes and what they do and for the life of me couldn't figure out where the anode was. It just didn't have one. Thanks
I eliminated the need for having to replace the anode by replacing my suburban hot water heater with a Tankless system. It has been a bit over a year now and I couldn't be happier. I would recommend them to any who is living full time in an RV.
Is it wise to put a metal anode rod in an Atwood. If the pressure relief valve failed, those plastic nuts are made to eject under high pressure to keep the tank from bursting........just a thought.
Anyone buying a new Rv read your contract don’t sign away your rights to the manufacturer. Tell your sales and the dealers you won’t buy the unit if the contract states anything that you give up your rights to sue if the unit is defective
Then I guess you won't be getting a new RV because they pretty much all have such a clause in their agreements Edit: Shouldn't be buying new anyway way overpriced
Google : "Atwood water heater not needing sacrificial plug" Posted By: skipnchar on 01/20/11 08:20am Well it's a LITTLE more than just being aluminum as aluminum is also subject to electrolysis. The reason Attwood does not need an anode rod is there is ONLY aluminum used anywhere that comes into contact with the water. If a brass, steel or iron plug were used THEN electrolysis would attack because of dissimilar metals being in contact with the water. That's why it's a poor idea to replace the nylon plug with a metal one because once that is done damage will occur.
Watching this a year later…very helpful. You answered all my questions. ❤👍. Okay…video gets better and better…now I subscribed. This gentleman flushing the tank with the wand reminds me of my dental hygienist. A bit of a shower involved.
I’m getting ready to add a drain line to my water heater. It doesn’t have the anode rod at least, not at the drain plug, but poor design to have the water pour out over electronics and the schematic decal. I’m putting an adapter, short brass nipple, stainless braided hose with a shutoff valve. That way I can drain it without pouring water everywhere. I think using it a few times a year and draining it afterwards, flushing/sanitizing it, it will hopefully last. Great tips though
Good video with useful info. As I looked at the link for the anode, it goes to the cheap ones with the black top that he warned to NOT use... I expected the link to go to a Camco anode. I do have an Atwood that is 34 years old in out 1990 HR motorhome, fortunately, it works great and when I drain it, no granules come out, but I will be getting a wand to flush it out before we use it next year (winterized now).
Mine last longer then that because I drain the tank every time when leaving the camp site, plus I eliminate carrying extra tongue weight being in the front of camper..
Wow, Jim from Kleen Tank is awesome! The best training I’ve ever gotten from a plumber. Usually they won’t tell you nothing, apparently thinking that it’s their job security to leave everyone in the dark. We should all just send Jim money for all the great training :-)
Do not open release valve to fill water heater. U need an air pocket at the top of the water heater to allow for expansion of the water. Simply turn on a hot water spigot in the RV. This will let the water fill to proper depth inside the tank.
you should NOT have the relief valve open when you fill the heater. You need the trapped air at the top to provide a water expansion buffer or your relief vale will almost always leak. Been doing this on rvs since 1985
Respectfully disagree. Simply opening any tap in the RV for hot water would immediately eliminate the trapped air in the water heater tank. A leading valve is almost always the case of an improper fitting or seating or failed valve in need of replacement.
@@kleentank Incorrect...the hot water does not exit at the top. There will ALWAYS be trapped air until it is exhausted by long periods of use such as a seasional camper. Thats the design of ALL water heaters
The air pocket is above the safety valve. Yo child sometimes just open it to let some water out to recreate the air pocket and also stabilize the water pressure in the pipe when there has been too much succion in an almost empty fresh water tank when the pump goes crazy and noisy after refilling .
They seem nasty, but most of what you are seeing coming out with a cleaning and flushing is residual from degradation of the anode rod in Suburban water heaters. There are exceptions, of course.
Been RV camping for 20 years, and have never had an anode look like that. I check it every fall when we put the unit away for the Winter. Also, I thought you were supposed to leave the valve closed and a faucet open to fill the heater tank? They're supposed to have an air gap for expansion.
Mine has a brass threaded drain plug that needs a flat head screw driver to remove. It’s in a 1992 Gulf Stream Insbrook Classic 5th wheel. Any idea what kind of tank mine is?
Sorry if you've already answered this question but did you a water by pass before emptying the tank? If not what prevents the tank from filling up during maintenence?
4:05 stated full timers should change these 4 times a year...14:50 stated that these anode rods will last a year to year and half for full timers. Conflicting info.
Hi Kent. Hoping you'd be a great resource. Mine is a 96D190P and I have a large longitudinal crack in the hot water line from sink faucet to exiting hole in the back wall / cabinet. Would you have a how to comment on the replacement of the line? Thx
Wow Tom. So Happy I found your Channel!! I'm looking to be a first time purchaser of a Travel Trailer, specifically a Coachmen Viking Saga 14SR. I'm doing all my research on maintenance, tips and tricks before the purchase so I'm prepared beforehand. Excellent video series. Excellent company, owner, information! Very very Helpful. Thank You! Subscribed!
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Thank you for showing the ROD, having worked in the Public water system, have had customers complain about smell and water problems in the home water system
Can tell you with WELL water that the tips that this guy says is amazing 😊😊😊
We had iron & Maganze issues in the water system, but water was not treated
Great well water. This is something an RVer needs to do, don't let it slide
Always have a professional clean out your system. No matter what you think. Believe me. In my experience as an operator of a water system, especially small private RV parks that have their own WELLS. You MUST always Filter your water coming into the RV or do this like the video says.
Don't expect your water tank to be "OK" just because you are hooked up to a domestic water spicket. Always Filet your water coming in. But a spicket water filter just saying in my Humble opinion as a manager of a small public water system
This guy is old-school work ethic, combined with New World knowledge. What fantastic information.
16 years in my mototor home. Drained a few times for winterization. Never had a problem.
No the anode rod is NOT in bad shape. Until it gets down to pencil size rod that’s when you replace it. It’s supposed to look like that because it’s doing its job of falling apart to protect the tank. That anode rod has many many months of protection left.
When to replace your anode is at your discretion. But since many RVers don't replace them with regularity, we recommend a best practice standard. You would be surprised at how many RVers never even clean out their water heater tanks!
Does a 2017 Jayco Redhawk 26XD accept a anode Rod ? ( Atwood )
Right? It's barely even used... They look close to a pencil lead when they're used up
@@kleentank "regularity" isn't TWICE a year... What? That's crazy
Yep
We have been camping about once a month and average 4 nights per stay. Something I came across on TH-cam before we bought our trailer was to drain the water heater after each trip to reduce wear on leaving water in the tank. I have done this religiously and to this day the anode rod is still looking very good after 2 years. We do use mainly State Campgrounds in Oregon which likely has better water which I am sure helps. Great maintenance video. I think water heater maintenance is for sure something that doesn't get done as often and this is a great reminder.
Not sure this is a good idea. When you drain the tank, there is still water in the bottom 2 inches. The tank will corrode but the anode will not protect it because the water is not contacting the anode. Thus you are protecting the anode rod but you are not protecting the bottom of the tank.
This is totally something new for me that we need to clean the water heater
Omg. I'm soooo glad I came across this video. We bought an rv in October & have been living in it full time. Never knew about this. Thank you sooo much
The tank cleaning video and this one were very informative. I have owned 4 RV's myself and transport RV's, at times helping people set up. Boy have I been wrong on tank advise. I now stand corrected. Thanks again for the great videos!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for these most informative and educational vids. As a newby, and widowed female, I certainly appreciate these lessons!
Im glad I ran across this video. I just got a 2008 K-Z Coyote that was given to me, and this is my first RV. This is something i didn`t know about. I will be checking this today.
No doubt ur repair and maintenance vids r not only good to know, but also very important to know.
Definitely I truly appreciate these kind of vids, as I too dwell full-time in an RV.
Awesome info guys.
Sincere thumbs up.
I drain mine after every trip and never let it sit with water in it while storing!
Same here. Cuts down on stinky water on the next drip.
Me three. I don't leave it empty though due to deposites that may dry up and form a crust. I for sure drain, flush, and fill before every trip. I also fill my fresh to the top with a few cap fulls of bleach and drain before I go out. Never know what could be growing in there lol.
Yep me too
Exactly! Also a 12"curled up shop towel set in the tank and hanging outside will siphon all water out over a 2 day period
I drain mine too
If you want to avoid the "Hot Shower" as shown at 4:50; open the pressure relief valve and both the Low Line & water heater valves found on the bottom outside of your trailer. Some valves are in the inside but they drain out side under the trailer. Most of the time you'll two little hoses hanging down from the bottom of the trailer. They are usually quarter or half turn valves. after it stops draining then remove the plug that is attached to the water heater. You'll get about a pint of water and can replace your anode rod. The water will all drain out and you stay dry & unharmed.
That's great advice!
After opening the pressure release valve and releasing the pressure just close it back off before removing the anode rod. This will minimize the initial rush of water and it can then be reopened if you want to speed up the draining process.
@@a.n.7863 see my first comment reply and you’ll have NO gush of water at all.
@@herb7877 Sorry, I was in the process of editing my comment earlier to say I wasn’t contradicting yours but I got interrupted and never got back to it. Not every RV has those two drain hoses. Leaving the release valve closed (as well as all faucets) restricts the air flow behind the water and slows down the drainage.
@@a.n.7863 no worries. I was just trying to point out a way to stay dry. Apologies if it sounded snarky. Wasn’t my intentions
I learned a lesson a few days back. Don't forget to make sure your rv water tank is SHUT OFF and cold before you take out the heater element. Also open the pressure valve.
Thanks for this great vid Tom! - I've been an RVer for years and have a Suburban HWT.
I was missing an important step in leaving the pressure valve open when refilling the tank, and often had to "burp" it later - not knowing why. - Cheers!
We needed this advice but are out in the mountains in a tiny town right at the moment. Hoping to find an rv repair guy to do a clean out if possible. We just started having the relief valve release water and it has that chalky sediment. I do appreciate your videos especially the instructional!
I would hope for the sake of contamination of drinking water supply there is a back flow device somewhere on this cleaning unit. But awesome video for the RV community. Thanks Tom
Absolutely! All of our processes employ back flow protection so as not to contaminate any supply. We recommend the RV owner use adequate processes and protection as well.
Thank you Tom! Another great piece of information. As a second RVer, I am still hungry for great learning experiences. This definitely fits the bill.
Performed the cleaning with 5 gallons of white vinegar, heated over night and drained on my Atwood 10 gallon water heater and drained the next day with zero "flakes" coming out (16 year old RV !). Turns out that some of the Atwood water heaters don't need sacrificial anodes because the tanks are made of aluminum. Good exercise :)
how did you fill it with vinegar???
@@Rosemunchkin1 I fill my Atwood tank with Vinegar by unscrewing the pressure relief valve and using a transmission fluid oil spout I got from Walmart. It works perfectly and was only $5. Be sure to put thread tape back on the valve before screwing it back in.
Thanks for making this informative video! We have a 2017 GD Imagine TT with an Atwood W/H. I never knew that after about 4-5 years we need to install a anode rod. I used your links to buy the brushes but your link for the rod was a 2 pack for $12. Jim said not to buy them as the quality was not good. I went to Amazon and bought the Camco 1 rod pack for $17.
Thanks again for all you do & look forward to seeing your next video!
Glad it was helpful!
How do you maintenanc on a 20 gallon electric water heater tank on a park model? Thanks 6:48PM east time zone
When we get home from every trip I pull the anode rod out of my water heater
and drain the tank leaving it empty until I prep for next trip. So far, I have been
using the same rod for 3 years. It still looks like new.
!
I lived in a Montana 5th wheel for several years in Key West and it seemed as though I was having to refill my propane tanks too often. Opening the outside cover for the water heater, I found the outside rocker switch was frozen, I also noticed a stain coming from a small drip on the pressure safety valve.
After shutting off the Propane I drained my tank and removed the anode, which was down to a rusted metal rod. I then removed the pressure safety valve, heating element and the electrical rocker switch. While all the openings were clear I used a pressure nozzle on my garden hose to flush the tank through the pressure valve opening. The amount of calcium deposits that started coming out of the lower openings looked like the water heater was barfing calcium chunks!
After installing the new safety valve, anode, heating element and rocker switch, I filled the tank and switched the water heater to electric function.
Being in Key West, I never ran my furnace for heat and with my now “good as new” water heater working on electric, I only used propane for cooking on my stove top. With two 30-pound propane tanks and about one year to go until retirement, I never filled my tanks again.
Not only that, but when I was running the water heater on propane, I would get up in the morning, switch on the water heater and wait until I had hot water. Now that it was on electric mode, I always had hot water, ready to go!
So what I have done as i'm a full timer since 2016 is I shut off the hot water tank, wash all of the dishes with the hot water and run out the hot water until it's look warm. I also never open up the pressure relief valve to release the pressure because I find that you get some corrosion in the valve and after doing it a few times the valve leaks and you end up with ice everywhere if you are winter camping. I have had to replace the Pressure release valve many times, so much that I bought the socket on amazon to help remove and replace easier. I just open up the hot water taps in the trailer. I am also hearing stories about those clean out wands ( the same one I have) snapping off and getting stuck in the tank, people are suggesting a metal wand to prevent that from happening.
This was the best informational video I’ve ever watched.
Gotta go with the Aluminum Zinc anode rods, or another alternative rather than the standard rods. They cost just a few bucks more but they'll steer clear of the dreaded "rotten egg" sulfur smell that the standard rods often inevitably lead to.
.
When I drain for winter, I rinse it well then twist a paper towel and insert the end in the hole so it comes in contact with whatever water is left. With capillary action the remaining water drain from the bottom. I leave the paper towel in over winter to keep any foreign objects from entering. Come Spring I rerinse the tank to get rid of any scale that may have broken loose.
I'm a newly, and this is my 2nd year, and when winterizing and de-winterizeing, I've never seen a anode rod come out, when emptying the water heater. I have a 2016 Sunset trail, 2nd owner.
Thank you Tom and Jim for sharing this information.
I can't believe I watched both videos all the way through, but learned a ton of useful information.
Now, all I need to do is buy and RV. 😁😁😁
Glad it was helpful!
Guys, Here is The Savior
YaH The Heavenly FATHER (Genesis 1) HIMSELF was Who they Crucified/Pierced for our sins and “HERE IS THE PROOF”
From the Ancient Semitic:
"Yad He Vav He" is what Moshe (Moses) wrote, when Moses asked YaH His Name (Exodus 3)
Ancient Semitic Direct Translation
Yad - "Behold The Hand"
He - "Behold the Breath"
Vav - "Behold The NAIL"
You got a good guy there. He does a great job and also explains to you what should be done I would hire him anytime.👍✌️
Is poking your flushing device in the heater cause for concern of possibly damaging your heater element (especially electric or combo heaters)?
after watching these videos I just want to go out and flush my black and gray tanks. I've ordered the flush wand for my water heater. THANK YOU for sharing these videos. I'm definitely a follower. who knows - I might consider Jim's company for a side business
If the hot water rank don't have expansion belly, for the pressure, then you have to crank open a tap to drip so no pressure builds up. I learned that the hard way, blew my seals out in bathroom faucet, was leaking water for awhile before I found out.
Hey Tom, Hey Cheri, was real nice meeting you at the Content Creators meet up as well as the Tampa RV Show - Hope to meet up with you again another day, somewhere on the road - safe travels Lance from Canada (currently traveling the USA)
Great meeting you as well, safe travels!
Will do, you guys travel safe as well
Guys, Here is The Savior
HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Heavenly Father
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
- Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses)
- Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
Isaiah 42:8
"I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.
Isaiah 43:11
I, I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.
Isaiah 45:5
I am YaH, and there is none else.
Good information. The heater cover should have a screen over it to keep the bugs out.
Great information about water heater maintenance .. I remove my anode rod every fall when I am winterizing my RV and draining my hot water tank , I remove it and leave it out during the winter .. I check the anode and replace it every year or two as needed .. I do buy the two packs but have never had any water pressure issues with Camco or the cheaper anodes however .. Great idea about getting a 1 inch fitting brush to clean the threads and using a flushing nozzle to flush the tank , great video ..
So enjoy your videos. Y’all were the first RV channel I started watching years ago. still appreciate you!
This was one of the best videos for RVers. Thank u so very much. I also watch the tank cleaning . Great info as well.
we just got our first camper all these tips are really useful.
Loved this video and part 1. I’ve watched a number of your videos and they are very informative while also being unbiased, I do appreciate the content that you provide. The following is merely a consumption based observation.
I don’t love the seemingly endless ads I experience during your videos. Your videos tend to be longer than most that I watch on TH-cam, and I refuse to pay for ad free content, so it’s likely that both are combining to create a more frustrating experience. I’m not a content creator and I don’t know the obstacles or challenges that you face to create your content, I’m just trying to share share my obstacles when viewing content that I want to see, and the things that might discourage me from viewing it.
You do not have to view the ad/video, simply Touch ➡️ SKIP! The channel does Earn money from viewing ad videos BUT again it's NOT Manditory to watch them!!
@@dharobed3329 I’m aware, but the skip feature isn’t always available right away and this video had more Ad’s than most that I watch, but thanks for your incredibly informative comment.
Very helpfull. My Suburban water heater is 17 yrs old. On 2nd anoid. Current anoid is still clean and like your new one in video. It is like the better Camco one. My camper is only used a few weekends a year and 95% at 1 campground which has good well water. I can see doing the flushing this spring. Good tip! Hope I don't need a new water heater in the near future. My camper was built in Nov 2005.
Wow! Two anodes in 17 years. That's some kind of record and very rare for sure.
@@kleentank the first anoid came with the camper. I bought it used 3 yrs old. Didn't check it till 2 yrs later as the camper was in dry storage. The 1st anoid was down to a 1/8" skinny rod. So it was replaced start of 2012. The 2nd one is pulled and inspected at end of every season (only 5.5 month season here in upper Wisconsin). As soon as I see wear, it will be replaced again. May need your tank flushing services. Don't know if you travel from Northern Illinois all the way north to Pelican Lake, WI. (Map it) Could be a 5 hr drive 1-way for you. Water is on from maybe mid April to early Oct.
Guys, Here is The Savior
HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Heavenly Father
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
- Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses)
- Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
Isaiah 42:8
"I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.
Isaiah 43:11
I, I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.
Isaiah 45:5
I am YaH, and there is none else.
Glad both of you guys know the right term for what you are talking about.
It is a water heater or a hot water tank. Not a HOT water heater. Why would you want to heat hot water?
If you remove the anode first, a little water will gurgle out. You won't get a stream of water until you allow air into the tank.
The rods with the black end is all I've ever seen in any of my units and that's from brand new.
Newb here.... Our hot water wasn't working and I bet it's bc I didn't leave the pressure valve open while filling. Will be trying that tomorrow 🤞🏼
14:45 The cheaper anode rods are usually magnesium which doesn't last as long as aluminum.
There's nothing wrong with using magnesium rods if they are lasting a year or more. If they aren't you should be using aluminum.
I bought that same wire brush but cut off the handle and stick the stem in my cordless drill.
I just subscribed the only issue I was having is the switch for the water heater was not moving and I didn’t want to brake it but after a day I went back and applied force and it worked but now it won’t go back to the off position, oh well I can deal with that after the trip.
i have a Atwood Heater and its about two years old. question is do i have to wait until i see stuff coming out of the tank to install a Anode Rod
Your Atwood (now, Dometic) water heater has a two year factory warranty. Installing an anode rod in that two year period will void the warranty. That being said, about year three to five, depending on use, we do see corrosion coming out of the water heater and recommend the installation of an anode rod to slow down the process.
I understand your earlier reply to my comment and since I have full timed for five years now most people don’t do preventive maintenance on any part of their rv.
But again I’m only asking that you show a bad part and state it needs replacing, not a good part and tell people it’s bad. People look to you for good advice - please give them good advice.
Jim does a great service to remind us that a little maintenance is required and necessary to give longer life and best operation of our water heaters. I will suggest a little better description would be to refer to it as a “sacrificial anode” or “sacrificial rod”. The sacrificial anode is a simple and effective way to utilize a natural process called galvanic corrosion. The type of metal selected for the sacrificial anode will be more reactive than the metal of the tank and heating element therefore “sacrificing” itself and minimizing effects of corrosion on the rest of the heater. When the “anode” is pitted or has small barnacles on it you know it’s working to protect you water heater. If it’s minor pitting you can clean it up and reuse it since there’s lots of the anode remaining to sacrifice. However, if in doubt, just replace the sacrificial anode. Doing the maintenance is the key part. The science is an interesting side note. BTW, the same science is applied to our outboard motors. There’s a sacrificial anode on the leg to help protect it from corrosion and give you long service life. Thanks to Jim and everyone for the discussion. Happy RVing. 😁
Couple questions. What eats an anode rod? How does soft water cause anode rod to erode quicker? What was being flushed out of the tank?
soft water is softened using salt, Salt Makes the reaction go faster, I'm sure there is a video that explains it better than I could.
@@familycordina4812 water softeners use salt to create a brine that cleans the water softener system .. No salt is added to your water.
That's a MYTH spread by people who don't understand how water softeners work... He's full of it
Thanks for featuring Kleen Tank. Best information I have seen yet.
Glad it was helpful!
That was a great video. The guy who did all the work was very thorough. Thanks! John
We bought a used trailer and the water heater was completely full so we took it out put a gallon of CLR and they're waited a couple of days and four great out like milky water
Good video, however that anode was about 30% worn, it was still useable.
Filter,water softener , RO filtering
It's a house .....
You want to adjust temperature some water heater models have adjust on burner tube to a get a blue flame. At the same time some systems have mixer valves to help with temp.
Another great tip video. Thank you for sharing. Question: Jim said don't buy the anode rods in 2 packs, but your link for the Atwood anode rods is for a 2 pack. Is this an exception?
I do strongly recommend the Cameo anode rods. I've never seen them sold in two packs, but maybe there's now an exception.
@@kleentank ok, thank you. I just wanted to be sure the link was correct. Thanks again for the great advise. Wish you the best with your business.
My wildwood nash water heater is 20 years old and still going strong
Change the anode rod in your home water heater too!
This was really informative. Thank you for putting this up. I'm trying to do my homework on things that I'm going to need to stay on top of when I get my trailer soon.
It would not hurt to add a sealant on the bottom lip of the tank, where it meets the floor and wall to prevent water from seeping in to the floor and wall.
I pull my anode after every trip. Clean off any buildup with a scotch brite pad
Great video, and thanks for the information regarding the Atwood water heater. That's what my RV has, and I am very aware of anodes and what they do and for the life of me couldn't figure out where the anode was. It just didn't have one. Thanks
I eliminated the need for having to replace the anode by replacing my suburban hot water heater with a Tankless system. It has been a bit over a year now and I couldn't be happier. I would recommend them to any who is living full time in an RV.
Those need maintenance too. If you don't take care of it it'll fail in a year or 2
Is it wise to put a metal anode rod in an Atwood. If the pressure relief valve failed, those plastic nuts are made to eject under high pressure to keep the tank from bursting........just a thought.
That kleenTank specialist is very experienced! I like him
Anyone buying a new Rv read your contract don’t sign away your rights to the manufacturer. Tell your sales and the dealers you won’t buy the unit if the contract states anything that you give up your rights to sue if the unit is defective
Then I guess you won't be getting a new RV because they pretty much all have such a clause in their agreements Edit: Shouldn't be buying new anyway way overpriced
That reminds me. My water heater maintenance is overdue. 🤔😯
Google : "Atwood water heater not needing sacrificial plug"
Posted By: skipnchar on 01/20/11 08:20am
Well it's a LITTLE more than just being aluminum as aluminum is also subject to electrolysis. The reason Attwood does not need an anode rod is there is ONLY aluminum used anywhere that comes into contact with the water. If a brass, steel or iron plug were used THEN electrolysis would attack because of dissimilar metals being in contact with the water. That's why it's a poor idea to replace the nylon plug with a metal one because once that is done damage will occur.
We own a Dometic water heater and it doesn't have an anode rod
Watching this a year later…very helpful. You answered all my questions. ❤👍. Okay…video gets better and better…now I subscribed. This gentleman flushing the tank with the wand reminds me of my dental hygienist. A bit of a shower involved.
I’m getting ready to add a drain line to my water heater. It doesn’t have the anode rod at least, not at the drain plug, but poor design to have the water pour out over electronics and the schematic decal. I’m putting an adapter, short brass nipple, stainless braided hose with a shutoff valve. That way I can drain it without pouring water everywhere. I think using it a few times a year and draining it afterwards, flushing/sanitizing it, it will hopefully last. Great tips though
i watched both , i learnt quite alot , from just these 2 vlogs , thank you...
Good video with useful info. As I looked at the link for the anode, it goes to the cheap ones with the black top that he warned to NOT use... I expected the link to go to a Camco anode. I do have an Atwood that is 34 years old in out 1990 HR motorhome, fortunately, it works great and when I drain it, no granules come out, but I will be getting a wand to flush it out before we use it next year (winterized now).
Very informative. Your service tech answered the questioned I had. Thanks so much for this video.
Mine last longer then that because I drain the tank every time when leaving the camp site, plus I eliminate carrying extra tongue weight being in the front of camper..
We do ours 2 times a year
Awesome, great job!
We have hard water out on our land so very year we clean it out and all water lines to. Its a must where we are. On well water full time.
Wow, Jim from Kleen Tank is awesome! The best training I’ve ever gotten from a plumber. Usually they won’t tell you nothing, apparently thinking that it’s their job security to leave everyone in the dark. We should all just send Jim money for all the great training :-)
Do not open release valve to fill water heater. U need an air pocket at the top of the water heater to allow for expansion of the water. Simply turn on a hot water spigot in the RV. This will let the water fill to proper depth inside the tank.
you should NOT have the relief valve open when you fill the heater. You need the trapped air at the top to provide a water expansion buffer or your relief vale will almost always leak. Been doing this on rvs since 1985
agree, and I had one that did not use an anode rod for ten years and never had a problem!
Respectfully disagree. Simply opening any tap in the RV for hot water would immediately eliminate the trapped air in the water heater tank. A leading valve is almost always the case of an improper fitting or seating or failed valve in need of replacement.
@@kleentank Incorrect...the hot water does not exit at the top. There will ALWAYS be trapped air until it is exhausted by long periods of use such as a seasional camper. Thats the design of ALL water heaters
The air pocket is above the safety valve. Yo child sometimes just open it to let some water out to recreate the air pocket and also stabilize the water pressure in the pipe when there has been too much succion in an almost empty fresh water tank when the pump goes crazy and noisy after refilling .
If you read the owners manual for Suburban, they specifically say to keep the air pocket and replenish it every so often.
I'm full time and I do it once a year. That's been more than enough. I have the old Atwood.
Your video and links are so helpful! I wish there was a link for the brush at 9:12. The long brush link is not the same. Thank you!
What about screwing a male adapter and a short piece of pipe to keep the water away
I’m new to the Rv life style so please be kind. We have a tankless water heater is there a Nanode that we have to change out with it?
Excellent advice and tips for Newbies! Thank you!
i think Jim meant the cheaper 2pak anodes are shorter? im seeing on amazon the 2paks are 9.25"
I had to help someone with her suburban back in feb 2020 it was nasty
They seem nasty, but most of what you are seeing coming out with a cleaning and flushing is residual from degradation of the anode rod in Suburban water heaters. There are exceptions, of course.
You can also cut the rod down to size
Been RV camping for 20 years, and have never had an anode look like that. I check it every fall when we put the unit away for the Winter. Also, I thought you were supposed to leave the valve closed and a faucet open to fill the heater tank? They're supposed to have an air gap for expansion.
Water heater procedure very helpful! Thanks for the links!
I remove the anode first then open the relief valve. Doing this keeps me from getting soaked.
Mine has a brass threaded drain plug that needs a flat head screw driver to remove. It’s in a 1992 Gulf Stream Insbrook Classic 5th wheel. Any idea what kind of tank mine is?
What does the anode do?
Sorry if you've already answered this question but did you a water by pass before emptying the tank? If not what prevents the tank from filling up during maintenence?
Awesome content! Keep up the good work. You guys are one of the reasons we started our channel.
4:05 stated full timers should change these 4 times a year...14:50 stated that these anode rods will last a year to year and half for full timers. Conflicting info.
Hi Kent. Hoping you'd be a great resource. Mine is a 96D190P and I have a large longitudinal crack in the hot water line from sink faucet to exiting hole in the back wall / cabinet. Would you have a how to comment on the replacement of the line? Thx
Nice to hear someone call it a water heater rather than a hot water heater.
Not too tight 😂😂. Stop right before it breaks.
does it really matter? it makes water HOT soooo......(eye roll)
Wow Tom. So Happy I found your Channel!! I'm looking to be a first time purchaser of a Travel Trailer, specifically a Coachmen Viking Saga 14SR. I'm doing all my research on maintenance, tips and tricks before the purchase so I'm prepared beforehand. Excellent video series. Excellent company, owner, information! Very very Helpful. Thank You! Subscribed!
Very informative and answered a couple of good questions for me.
Does this apply to tankless water heaters?