Thank you. My mower did the same thing. I was mowing and it just shut down. No light on dash was my cue of a fuse but I did not have a clue where it was. The repair shop could not get me in for weeks and the grass was already tall. I watched your video and 30 minutes later I was mowing!
Always and I means always test the selinoid before removing it. The wire coming from the ignition switch can be energized to make the selinoid function, it will 13:21 click which is the inner contacts coming together. If your wiring to the starter is hooked up still it will also engage the starter. If it clicks and no starter engagement then test for power coming and going to and through the selinoid. If power is not going thru then most likely the selinoid contacts are of issue, replace. If power going thru selinoid then test for power at the starter. If power is at the starter terminal then the starter is of issue. If no power is at the starter but power is at the selinoid starter side the check the wire and its connections.
Your wonderful visual saved a great deal of time and expense to fix a blown 20A fuse, by the way the manual says its under the dash! Thanks you greatly
Are these motors have any problems breaking its compression release? My Ariens has a Briggs 18.5hp and had nothing but problem then it filled up the engine fill of gas and broke the cam. So I’m done with it and want to buy something else used but are know to be reliable.
Yeah I took my solenoid off it's getting almost 12 volts to it but I'm not sure where the wiring goes back on it cuz I couldn't see what I was doing the both positive wires go on the right side when it's connected in what wires go on the mounting side thanks
Looking at one online and he says it leaks oil by the oil filter and says putting a new filter on it and it still leaks. Is there something where the filter mounts that might need fixed with a gasket or something?
Ok I have a problem ware the forward and backup are back word can you help me please because it turns of the blades if you step on backup so you can go forward
Hi, Thanks for the question. On my model, there was no choke knob. It was only a blank, capped space on the dash. The choke is to push the throttle all the way up when starting. After the tractor is running, then you pull the throttle back to a notch (still near the top of the throttle slide) which is full throttle. I popped the cap off the hole in the dash and my switch fit in there nicely. It was reachable behind the dash from on top of the gas tank.
Junk parts cause issues. Bad engineering causes issues. If there was a high amp relay used between the switch and the PTO it would solve so many issues.
From the sound it made when you turned the key to start it you need to adjust the valves. It's not fully compressing the compression release. Mine was so far out it sounded like a bad battery or starter. Hope this helps. 👍
Thank you. My mower did the same thing. I was mowing and it just shut down. No light on dash was my cue of a fuse but I did not have a clue where it was. The repair shop could not get me in for weeks and the grass was already tall. I watched your video and 30 minutes later I was mowing!
Great! Glad to have helped.
I’ve had ALL these same problems and now the starter just like years lol… thanks for the video I will head to the supply store tomorrow
Always and I means always test the selinoid before removing it. The wire coming from the ignition switch can be energized to make the selinoid function, it will 13:21 click which is the inner contacts coming together. If your wiring to the starter is hooked up still it will also engage the starter. If it clicks and no starter engagement then test for power coming and going to and through the selinoid. If power is not going thru then most likely the selinoid contacts are of issue, replace. If power going thru selinoid then test for power at the starter. If power is at the starter terminal then the starter is of issue. If no power is at the starter but power is at the selinoid starter side the check the wire and its connections.
Your wonderful visual saved a great deal of time and expense to fix a blown 20A fuse, by the way the manual says its under the dash! Thanks you greatly
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP. I HAVE CUB CADET LTX 1050 I HAVE THIS PROBLEM TO
Are these motors have any problems breaking its compression release? My Ariens has a Briggs 18.5hp and had nothing but problem then it filled up the engine fill of gas and broke the cam. So I’m done with it and want to buy something else used but are know to be reliable.
What was the correct ...part solenoid number. Did you just need a 1/4 inch and a extension or a wobble socket ?
Yeah I took my solenoid off it's getting almost 12 volts to it but I'm not sure where the wiring goes back on it cuz I couldn't see what I was doing the both positive wires go on the right side when it's connected in what wires go on the mounting side thanks
Wondering the same
On the old, dead solenoid, was there lights and numbers on the dash? I got nothing.
Looking at one online and he says it leaks oil by the oil filter and says putting a new filter on it and it still leaks. Is there something where the filter mounts that might need fixed with a gasket or something?
I haven't had problems with mine, so I'm not sure what the problem might be.
Ok I have a problem ware the forward and backup are back word can you help me please because it turns of the blades if you step on backup so you can go forward
Not sure. That sounds beyond my expertise. Sorry.
2 years later, have you done head gaskets and starter motors yet?
Nope. So far so good But, we'll see, I'm sure.
What did you do with the choke when you added the PTO safety bypass switch? Looks like you installed it where the choke knob normally is...
Hi, Thanks for the question. On my model, there was no choke knob. It was only a blank, capped space on the dash. The choke is to push the throttle all the way up when starting. After the tractor is running, then you pull the throttle back to a notch (still near the top of the throttle slide) which is full throttle. I popped the cap off the hole in the dash and my switch fit in there nicely. It was reachable behind the dash from on top of the gas tank.
@@countrylivingonashoestring5159 oh, ok....my ltx1050 has a choke there...
Clarification both red wires go to the upper terminals blackwire grounds to chassi At selenoid mounting bolts Mark spade connectors before removing
Junk parts cause issues. Bad engineering causes issues. If there was a high amp relay used between the switch and the PTO it would solve so many issues.
There are 3 Pole and 4 Pole selenoids
From the sound it made when you turned the key to start it you need to adjust the valves. It's not fully compressing the compression release. Mine was so far out it sounded like a bad battery or starter. Hope this helps. 👍
Mine’s doing the same. How do you adjust the valves? I can’t find a video
The LT 1050 is slot easier to work on
Put mine in park and now it will not move
Not sure what the problem could be. Maybe an issue with the linkage?
U tube certified lol