Tip #8. "I've come to accept that it is necessary ... It sucks, but do the right thing!" Integrity speaking here! I sure appreciate it when I see it in action like you've done here, brother!
Thank you for share your master. I’m 56 years old and I’ve been in carpentry for 34 years and I’m so proud of myself to found your TH-cam channel. Your videos helps a lot. Take care and stay safe.
On tapping with a hammer, I keep a small sacrificial piece to fit over the tongue, and tap that piece. Starting from the center makes too much sense, which is probably why I've never thought of it. Great tips as always... Thanks! 👍
I’ve also been doing that, I got taught recently that if a piece is real stubborn you can cut a scrap piece in half at an incline, fasten the side with the tongue to the wall above the board, then use the side with the groove as a wedge against the board to put in down into place. Not always necessary but when you can’t get a piece all the way down it works great. It also holds it in place while you’re nailing so it doesn’t bounce right back up 😂
Like the spline tip - this also makes sense for corridors with a central line of lights. Much better to look at than lights fitted half way over a board.
It’s common to do in hardwood strip flooring. Spencer is smart by actually starting in the middle and letting it fly. Keep in mind you have two options of centreline. The middle of the first board or the seam between the adjacent ones. It looks better in this job to split the lights. Still a good idea to do some quick layout/math to see what happens at the ends of the runs
I agreed with everything you said. If not careful when applying pl the ship lap will not sit flat on the wall. Pl expands and is thick when put on. good and bad at times. You will see this when cabinets are put up tight to the wall. When ship lap is vertical you will see a stepped look on the counter tops. When that happens I just use wood glue Works great
A million thanks for this and all your other vids. I am in the planning stages of installing my first T&G or shiplap ceiling to cover a 110 year old T&G that has many large gaps. I'm so glad I came across your video because what I've learned here will be invaluable. I'll watch it a few more times before I get going. A video about the pros and cons of T&G v Shiplap would also be very helpful to us amateurs.
Love this video. Love the carpentry advice. Love the business advice at the end about profit margins. Love your knowledge of how to navigate the job. Keep up the awesome videos!
i like the rubber mallet idea but I have also used a piece of scrap between the hammer head and the last installed piece-- the tongue and groove mates perfectly with no damage--thanks for another great video--
Many good tips. One learns a lot laying out 2 miles of that stuff! Only disappointment for me was no mention of details to make a perfect inside corner. Thank you. GEA
Had to leave a comment while its fresh on my mind.. thank you so much for what you do! Your videos have helped me take my work to another level. Literally just finished an accent wall with reclaimed t and g redwood and it turned out sick. Home owners are so happy. Thank you!
Absolutely amazing Spencer .... the channel production and the professional work is top notch. can't say enough how inspiring the channel is ... superb work on all of it
You still need to determine if it's a board that will be centered in the room or if the gap between two boards will be the center. If you do it correct, you will end with bigger than half width boards at the end on each side.
Instead of a mallet I’ve just been making myself little beater blocks out of off cuts, I find you can hit a lot harder when a board is real stubborn. If anything the beater block breaks and it’s just an off cut so I can make a new one real quick no harm done.
Great tips! I ran two miles this morning, but couldn't imagine dropping a piece of shiplap every 16 feet. Loved the scribing chapter, I always find scribing so fascinating... It really steps up the craftsmanship, next level! Thanks again!
Really great tips man! Im glad you mentioned aclamating your product in your list. Debunking the myth around assumed properties of MDF juat because its a manufactured vs natural product was great also. I rrally appreciate the depth of explanation you give on each topic .... Just right... Not to much or too little. Thanks for this and all your other insightful videos. Cheers Greg
Yeah, I had an aha moment there. Wood has grain that usually runs along the length, which is why it doesn’t change size much on the long axis. But MDF has no grain, so the longer it is the more it changes.
I love installing shiplap and other panel walls but I hate working with MDF it's just so fragile and doesn't hold up like real wood. I can come pretty close on the price point buying real wood products from small local sawmills so I can usually talk the home owners into paying a extra hundred bucks per room to be able to brag that wood didn't come from a corporate factory. Also I use a hardwood flooring mallet over a regular rubber hammer to beat it into position that wide face seems to help keep from dinging the boards and if you don't have a track saw running the foot of a skill saw against your speed square works pretty good to get fast square cuts once you get the hang of it.
Good move on using one of the Oshlun blades on the tracksaw. I've got a couple I use on the rough stuff. I've found the Freud track saw blades are as good as the Festool ones and cost much less. Another great vid. Cheers
I’m glad I watched til the end before commenting on how much I hate shiplap, but you’re not the architect so I don’t blame you at all! My question is, how easy is it to rock over once this fad is done with? In my experience MDF doesn’t hold screws worth a damn.
Also by starting from the middle when you get to both ends the ceiling could be out of square so you have to cheat the ends at times to so your last rip is equal all the way thru the cut. Measure from the lap board to the wall often.
Hey Spencer great video, very informative! I had a question, i need to install around 260 square feet of shiplap in a bathroom with a window where the sunshine goes through it (definitely affecting expansion and contrast in the Pine shiplap) and has a metal stud. If i glue it and nail it to the dryway is that enough to hold it in place? If you can get back to me that would be fantastic, thanks
Very helpful video. First or second I’ve watched of yours. When pricing say 300 square feet. Do you price 300 square feet or linear feet? Keep the videos coming.
Looking good as usual! I’ve never installed MDF shiplap but I can’t tell you how much 1x6 yellow pine carsiding I’ve put up I had some custom tongs made to help me clamp it down tight I’ve never used a nail gun either always 6’s and 8’s casing nails old school lol but it’ll last forever… you always do a great job I enjoy watching and learning from you my friend stay safe and have a good weekend
Great tips, Spenser. Obviously works well looking at the finished product behind you. However, this video has raised an important question - what's your golf handicap? Judging by the glove shadow on your left hand I hope it's where you want it to be. I'm guessing you apply the same tenacity to your golf game as to your carpentry.
Will your painter come in then and caulk the butt joints and the ends that meet the walls or will you put up a trim piece I’ve seen done else where? I myself liked the trim boards but might more towards caulking next time.
Wife wants to do a couple of our ceiling's. So what brand MDF are you using here? Also should the ends of the boards be staggered ? It didn't look like you staggered. Just watched again, and I guess the beams you mentioned is why you kept the ends in line.
Love all your tips, Spencer. Thank you! One question: you refer a couple times to a "JUNK BLADE". Is that literally a worn out blade, or is it a specific type of circular saw tooth pattern? Thanks!
Yes thanks very much for a very useful video, just one point though, you talk as if all MDF products are the same, but MDF comes in different grades and characteristics, one of which is moisture resistant MDF. I use MR MDF all the time but where I live I don't have an awful lot of humidity variation. Have you had any experience, positive or negative, using it?
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Its always nice to see a smart carpenter teaching the up-and-coming trades cuz they need it!
Tip #8. "I've come to accept that it is necessary ... It sucks, but do the right thing!" Integrity speaking here! I sure appreciate it when I see it in action like you've done here, brother!
Batch cutting with track saw. Brilliant!
Thank you for share your master. I’m 56 years old and I’ve been in carpentry for 34 years and I’m so proud of myself to found your TH-cam channel. Your videos helps a lot. Take care and stay safe.
“Tip number 10, then I promise I’m done” We chose this video, please, go on.
White paint color has really been a godsend for us carpenters. Love it.
On tapping with a hammer, I keep a small sacrificial piece to fit over the tongue, and tap that piece. Starting from the center makes too much sense, which is probably why I've never thought of it. Great tips as always... Thanks! 👍
Isn’t it funny how sometimes the obvious isn’t obvious at all?
I’ve also been doing that, I got taught recently that if a piece is real stubborn you can cut a scrap piece in half at an incline, fasten the side with the tongue to the wall above the board, then use the side with the groove as a wedge against the board to put in down into place. Not always necessary but when you can’t get a piece all the way down it works great. It also holds it in place while you’re nailing so it doesn’t bounce right back up 😂
@@jameslikesturtles8254 And then there's the good ol' pry bar. I never leave home without it.
I was waiting to hear how you like the dust hood. It saves alot of clean up time😎😎😎
Great tips from a great teacher. Thanks.
Like the spline tip - this also makes sense for corridors with a central line of lights. Much better to look at than lights fitted half way over a board.
It’s common to do in hardwood strip flooring. Spencer is smart by actually starting in the middle and letting it fly. Keep in mind you have two options of centreline. The middle of the first board or the seam between the adjacent ones. It looks better in this job to split the lights. Still a good idea to do some quick layout/math to see what happens at the ends of the runs
Scribe technique also works well on floating, nailed or glued flooring installs. Good tip.
Not everyone would think about the painter like that. Nice work pal
I agreed with everything you said.
If not careful when applying pl the ship lap will not sit flat on the wall. Pl expands and is thick when put on. good and bad at times.
You will see this when cabinets are put up tight to the wall. When ship lap is vertical you will see a stepped look on the counter tops.
When that happens I just use wood glue
Works great
I got that track saw after watching your stair treads video...its worth every cent!
I have worn out my chop saw hood and Have never seen they changed them, that looks to be a much better design. Ordered it...
A million thanks for this and all your other vids. I am in the planning stages of installing my first T&G or shiplap ceiling to cover a 110 year old T&G that has many large gaps. I'm so glad I came across your video because what I've learned here will be invaluable. I'll watch it a few more times before I get going. A video about the pros and cons of T&G v Shiplap would also be very helpful to us amateurs.
Love this video. Love the carpentry advice. Love the business advice at the end about profit margins. Love your knowledge of how to navigate the job. Keep up the awesome videos!
As someone in the trade my these were all very good and helpful tips. Some I already practice, but as they say. You never to old to learn some new.
I don’t do this for a living, but I just bought an HKC to do a tongue & groove ceiling. It was well worth the investment.
i like the rubber mallet idea but I have also used a piece of scrap between the hammer head and the last installed piece--
the tongue and groove mates perfectly with no damage--thanks for another great video--
Thank you spencer!
Yours is my favorite carpentry channel.
So SPOT ON and helpful 🙏
I am only 3 tips in, and I already liked it. Awesome video. 👌
U ve been super helpful to my career, u are a super blessing
Excellent work and instruction brother! I appreciate your craftsmanship!
Excellent video, lots of very useful tips and tricks, thorough and detailed in just the right places, many thanks !!
Professional tips here
.thanks for sharing man..honestly ..lots of solid tips for a skilled trim carpenter
Many good tips. One learns a lot laying out 2 miles of that stuff! Only disappointment for me was no mention of details to make a perfect inside corner.
Thank you. GEA
Had to leave a comment while its fresh on my mind.. thank you so much for what you do! Your videos have helped me take my work to another level. Literally just finished an accent wall with reclaimed t and g redwood and it turned out sick. Home owners are so happy. Thank you!
That dust tent is a great idea. I wish I had found that sooner. Gotta get me one of those.
Absolutely amazing Spencer .... the channel production and the professional work is top notch. can't say enough how inspiring the channel is ... superb work on all of it
Much appreciated!
Looks good. I did a 5000 sq foot house last year of all shiplap walls, and spruce t&g. Used fingerjointed shiplap. Went up like a breeze.
You still need to determine if it's a board that will be centered in the room or if the gap between two boards will be the center. If you do it correct, you will end with bigger than half width boards at the end on each side.
The spline tip was worth watching the whole video.
Love your videos brother, you are truly a professional!
Great tip about the wood movement!
Awesome tips that are truly appreciated. I just found you, but please keep uploading these GREAT videos.
I found using a plastic tapping block with a rubber mallet worked well for leaving no marks or dents in the shipman I put up in a recent project.
Instead of a mallet I’ve just been making myself little beater blocks out of off cuts, I find you can hit a lot harder when a board is real stubborn. If anything the beater block breaks and it’s just an off cut so I can make a new one real quick no harm done.
Scribe tip is great, I can see how that can speed up production huge. Great video.
I wish you could go into more detail about scribing technique. Very interesting but I can’t seem to get it.
Great tips! I ran two miles this morning, but couldn't imagine dropping a piece of shiplap every 16 feet. Loved the scribing chapter, I always find scribing so fascinating... It really steps up the craftsmanship, next level! Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing ! I was baffled to learn about MDF properties.
Really great tips man! Im glad you mentioned aclamating your product in your list. Debunking the myth around assumed properties of MDF juat because its a manufactured vs natural product was great also.
I rrally appreciate the depth of explanation you give on each topic .... Just right... Not to much or too little.
Thanks for this and all your other insightful videos.
Cheers
Greg
Glad it was helpful!
Yeah, I had an aha moment there. Wood has grain that usually runs along the length, which is why it doesn’t change size much on the long axis. But MDF has no grain, so the longer it is the more it changes.
Thank you for your straight forward delivery! So nice to not have to watch corny bs. Great job
I love installing shiplap and other panel walls but I hate working with MDF it's just so fragile and doesn't hold up like real wood.
I can come pretty close on the price point buying real wood products from small local sawmills so I can usually talk the home owners into paying a extra hundred bucks per room to be able to brag that wood didn't come from a corporate factory. Also I use a hardwood flooring mallet over a regular rubber hammer to beat it into position that wide face seems to help keep from dinging the boards and if you don't have a track saw running the foot of a skill saw against your speed square works pretty good to get fast square cuts once you get the hang of it.
I am sixty years old. I hope when I grow up that I know as much as you! :-)
Good move on using one of the Oshlun blades on the tracksaw. I've got a couple I use on the rough stuff. I've found the Freud track saw blades are as good as the Festool ones and cost much less.
Another great vid. Cheers
Are the Oshlun blades no good? I have been using them on pre-finished materials on my Festool track saw and have had great results.
I saw this too late. Just did two porch ceilings. I do keep a rubber dead blow hammer in the other loop on my tool belt to keep the tongue nice.
Your videos are awesome Spencer! Full of great tips/tricks that make a difference. Thanks for what you do!
Really great content. Lucy me, my wife and I just bought a house in Fort Wayne. Great to know there are such great craftsman there.
Great choice of city!
Awesome tips. Seeing the hood is a first for me.
Love yr work and channel, so much great info + Tips ,thank you.
Always good info but sum it up man. Every video is like half my day.
Thanks. About to do my full basement
Very informative information. Thanks
I’m glad I watched til the end before commenting on how much I hate shiplap, but you’re not the architect so I don’t blame you at all! My question is, how easy is it to rock over once this fad is done with? In my experience MDF doesn’t hold screws worth a damn.
You go Aussie style and glue the wallboard over those 2 miles of mdf.
Longer drywall screws.
Also by starting from the middle when you get to both ends the ceiling could be out of square so you have to cheat the ends at times to so your last rip is equal all the way thru the cut. Measure from the lap board to the wall often.
Thanks for sharing Spencer, I will be using these tips on the next one I have coming up this fall. Keep up the great work Bud 👍.
You bet
Your giving away all our secrets :)
Love all the tips you talk about, do you have a video where showing how to hide the nails?
This is one of your best videos
Excellent tips.
Another great video Spencer, keep them coming.
Cool tips preparation is key to production
Spline tip is genius
Beastmode 🤘 Love the chop shop. Thanks buddy
Hey Spencer great video, very informative! I had a question, i need to install around 260 square feet of shiplap in a bathroom with a window where the sunshine goes through it (definitely affecting expansion and contrast in the Pine shiplap) and has a metal stud. If i glue it and nail it to the dryway is that enough to hold it in place? If you can get back to me that would be fantastic, thanks
Very helpful video. First or second I’ve watched of yours. When pricing say 300 square feet. Do you price 300 square feet or linear feet? Keep the videos coming.
Looking good as usual! I’ve never installed MDF shiplap but I can’t tell you how much 1x6 yellow pine carsiding I’ve put up I had some custom tongs made to help me clamp it down tight I’ve never used a nail gun either always 6’s and 8’s casing nails old school lol but it’ll last forever… you always do a great job I enjoy watching and learning from you my friend stay safe and have a good weekend
Awesome information. Thank you.
Great work. For 2 miles your saw triggers may need to replaced
I always learn so much. Thanks
Taking notes over here, teach! ✍️👍
Great tips, Spenser. Obviously works well looking at the finished product behind you. However, this video has raised an important question - what's your golf handicap? Judging by the glove shadow on your left hand I hope it's where you want it to be. I'm guessing you apply the same tenacity to your golf game as to your carpentry.
Sadly this house has really cut into my golf time. But hopefully I’ll be out again soon enough. I’m a 6-10 handicap on 18.
Thanks some great ideas
Thanks for the informative video!
Great tips, thanks for sharing
I would like to see a video of the jambmaster In use start to finish
Will your painter come in then and caulk the butt joints and the ends that meet the walls or will you put up a trim piece I’ve seen done else where? I myself liked the trim boards but might more towards caulking next time.
Excellent work.
Thanks great info
Wife wants to do a couple of our ceiling's. So what brand MDF are you using here? Also should the ends of the boards be staggered ? It didn't look like you staggered. Just watched again, and I guess the beams you mentioned is why you kept the ends in line.
Great information, keep up the good work!
thank you for the tips!
Can you please explain how you made the spline? It seems a bit complicated to make a good fit... or am I missing something? Thanks!
Simply ripped it on the table saw.
Nice scribe trick! Ty
Solid Gold! Thanks!
Love all your tips, Spencer. Thank you! One question: you refer a couple times to a "JUNK BLADE". Is that literally a worn out blade, or is it a specific type of circular saw tooth pattern? Thanks!
Fantastic tradesman there's not many of us left 🤣🤣
Fabulous tips, thank you!
Can I use either of these without drywall? Remolding a bathroom and looking for alternatives that look good
Vertical nickel gap has a higher potential of issues for people than running horizontal but good tips man
How do you like the Chop Shop Hood., I'm considering one?
Dont waste anymore time.
Get one!!!
Awesome video brother. What method do you recommend for installing shiplap on a concrete ceiling.
Your awesome mate. Great content 🤙
Thanks
Great video, thank you !!!!!!
*welcome Back* 👋🏻
Yes thanks very much for a very useful video, just one point though, you talk as if all MDF products are the same, but MDF comes in different grades and characteristics, one of which is moisture resistant MDF. I use MR MDF all the time but where I live I don't have an awful lot of humidity variation. Have you had any experience, positive or negative, using it?
Good advice