Spencer I am 67 and have been around carpentry/woodworking since my teens either as a job or hobby. I haven't watched a single one of your videos without learning something new. Well done my man. I look forward to watching more. Thanks!
I’m over 40yrs in the trade myself. The knowledge I gained in this video on the pivot point and cutting bead moulding to size will reflect on my next job
I feel so silly I didn’t know the pivot point on a miter saw doesn’t change where the long point is with a stop block. You just saved me so many hours, and gonna make me a lot more money!! Thank you, Spencer.
60 YEAR OLD carpenter here , that thought he knew it all, about production and the use of stop blocks. I just got schooled. The step of using the gage block to cut an additional stop block for the shorter trim is pure genius. OLD DOG NEW TRICK. NEXT LEVEL STUFF
I'm a 66 year old finish Termite. Nice job and excellent layout under the tough window that wasn't centered. (are they ever?) Used all the "tricks" myself and enjoyed seeing a young guy do quality work. Most things I see turn my stomach these days. Good job dude!
Aw, Spencer, you always put a smile on my face when I see your new vids! You're the thinking man's thinking man ... don't burn out on us. I'm a contractor and I learn something EVERY time!
3:36 "The battle is won before you even start working“ Words to consider in many of life's endeavors. This is particularly so when working alone with no other people's interruptions.
I didn't know that people didn't know that about the pivot point. I also didn't know that people didn't know about the " push the wood into the blade to take off 1/32nd" trick either. I started as a new guy with a bunch of Spencers, who learned from a bunch of Spencers. Then I worked for a different company and what I thought was normal, is considered crazy by others.
I’m embarrassed and upset with myself to say this but I’ve been a trim carpenter for 30 years and never new about the pivot point on the miter saw. Thanks for teaching an old dog a new trick. I also appreciate your mindset of tricking the eye to make things look right. I always tell people that trim carpentry is about perfection but the perception of perfection. Great video!!
As an aspiring carpenter myself based in the uk I really enjoy watching your videos, very informative and a pleasure to watch. I love your zero bullshit approach to producing content. Thankyou and Keep up the great work!
Great video- I do a lot of trim work, a great trick for a production table is to pull a 34’ or large extension ladder apart and put the 2 ladders next to each other on saw horses, lay some wood sheets down and you have the largest flat production table on any job site….its a game changer
This is a great example of taking a project in advance, and considering the 'middle ground' between total custom (one-at-a-time) building vs total pre-manufactured. Notice this is neither extreme. And really effective.
Great techniques man. I've been trimming for 22 years and the only thing I disagree with you on so far is "smarter not harder" I would say smarter and harder. Thanks
12:04 - making the spacer off a fixed stop block is a fantastic tip. In this case you could also speed up the process by cutting all the 45s on one side first (spacer removed, eyeballing the length leaving a bit of extra), then reinsert the spacer and flip the saw to the other 45 and batch cut all the other edges. Great video, learning a lot!!
I’m a journeyman carpenter/ fine woodworker. I built furniture too. We did a five story building pretty much like you did however we built it in the shop and transported it to the location. , allowing a little bit extra in places for scribe.
As a career cabinet maker, great work! The only thing that I think would have made it faster was a shaper in the shop. Profile the rails. Cut all those mid stiles to length in the shop and cope the ends. Then you could still pocket screw them onsite, and you wouldn’t have to miter any trim in the frames.
You honestly amaze me in every video on your unbelievable knowledge and skill! I’ve learnt a lot from watching your videos and not only have they made me better and more reputable, but I also I enjoy my job a lot more!
I always love your videos. One thing I learn to add to your lesson is move the miter less. Cut on one side for all pieces then rotate to opposite miter once and cut the other side again. All done and you moved the saw one time. I bet you save 1 min
You and I are so like Minded. Just started watching and I'm impressed. Finally someone like me who wants to take a few minutes to save a few hours. My father and other bosses I've worked for over the years don't appreciate it though. If you're standing still you aren't working and they think you are wasting their time and money when in reality you are taking time to figure the most efficient way possible. And why work hard when you can work smart? We all work hard enough as it is. I gotta say I love your bench setup. And I'm only twelve minutes in. I've been trying to convince my father of this and he won't come around. Maybe if I show him this video he will see the light so thank you! One more thing I'd like to add, respectfully. Why not cut all of the left 45's at the same time so you aren't switching the saw back in fourth. I'd understand if you had one long piece maybe, but you had all shorties anyways. Also I predicted that you were going to just add a block in front of the stop block 🙂. I usually end up making my own stop block because our bench is just awful and usually is just plywood with a box on either side... Sometimes I just draw a line instead of using a stop block and when I'm cuting speed base, I always draw on the saw where it was cut so when I flip the miter to cut away most of the base cope, it lines up perfect. I see a lot of people using kreg jigs and I love em, but in my opinion, building on the wall can be just as fast if you know what you're doing and the glue they have these days makes it so you don't need biscotti, screws, or dowels. A little shimming on the wall here and there and some light sanding and you'd never know it wasn't kreg jigged. Would love to show you our way of doing stairs too! We route into the skirts and it comes out so much nicer than the best cut to fit. Thx again for the video and I'll keep watching!
I always flip the trim on 45° cuts to keep from swinging the saw. I'm sure you know this and there's a reason you just swing the saw each cut anyway you're one best trim carpenter I've seen 👌
Some excellent tips in here. Thank you. I’m sure you cut multiple pieces while the saw it’s in each direction rather than moving the saw back and forth for every cut.
Great tips and I enjoyed the video. Only difference in my process is I’ll go though and take the time to cut all my mitres for entire room on one side then move the mitre saw once and cut the other side off my stop blocks. Same process fewer mitre saw turns (probably no faster)
Great video as always. Regarding the backer: I always have the same worry about drywall. Drywall texture isn’t as smooth, especially when doing paneling in a remodel. When it’s in the budget, I build the panel and then rabbet the backside 1/8 deep x 3/4 wide with a router. Staple 1/8” hardboard panels into the rabbet and you get a smooth back panel with a tight joint to the panel.
I usually use hardboard too but in one of my rooms I recently remodeled I just took some taping compound and smoothed out the texture. It worked quite nicely (and the price is right) but is a bit more labor intensive + you get the dreaded drywall dust when you sand it smooth.
I recently did that too. Definitely better than the stipled texture you get from a painted wall. I find it also helps to do a scuff sand after the 1st coat of paint when doing this.
That's a great tip. I do the same thing, only I will skip the routing and apply full sheets directly to the wall to save cutting individual panels and the routing. Flush the top edge to your frame and cover with your cap molding. There is the potential for an issue if your casing does not have enough depth to handle the additional 1/8" buildup, but then again if its not deep enough for that, it's not deep enough for a cap, in which case the room is not ready/should not be getting wainscot at all imo
Stupidly simple to think to cut your inside molding while the stop block is still in the same spot. Makes one slap oneself in the forehead! D'oh! Genius! Thanks for that, Spencer.
Been binge watching since your channel popped up and I have subscribed. Been in many houses with trim carpenters in there and they leave an absolute mess. Not only are you an excellent trim Carpenter you keep your work area tidy. 👍
Just read Pete Brown's response... that's why I never realized the pivot point consistency... I almost never use a chopsaw without a "zero clearance " auxiliary fence... it is good for avoiding tearout but also for cutting to a line.
Pretty Stinking Good! Between you and Richard, I have it down. FYI. Richard is using Windsor One because it is consistently of a high quality, it is a system, everything fits together, and it is prepainted, not finished, but better than primed. All in all he likes the quality better than going with raw wood/mdf or using some generic molding. You did an amazing job. Love it. The only thing I would do different is not measure the final boxes but use two sticks or skinny pieces of cardboard, slide them apart to inside of your box. Then tape/glue them together. That way you get an exact piece the length you need. Measuring can be inconsistent. My father, a long time ago, made a ruler that was two pieces of ash that slid apart. He put it together with some brass sheet metal. Looked real nice. He used that for inside measurements. No numbers needed!
Belt clip ont these Stanley FatMax tapes must feel like the blinkers in BMWs. Thanks for adjusting down the outro volume. You've made an amazing job with the wainscoting.
Straight lining, plumb off the wall and level with datum reference lines is important. Then some panel adhesive helps over time with the nails acting as the clamp. Considering the the material being used (Poplar) the finger joint lengths being used could pose a problem over time where the joints meet. Pieces tend to react differently to atmospheric conditions which can expose the joints under the paint. Using water based paints can do this as well. Just some observations. I like the beaded frame. I bought that beading bit and milled a ton of bead molding. I had the mill run it for me but they couldn't do it like I wanted it. So, I did it. Nice work on your part. Good channel to teach methods. Cheers
Excellent video! For that last panel which has a varying width, you could make a sliding length guide out of 2 pieces of strip wood. Place it in, slide it to length and have maybe a wing nut or equivalent to tighten and fix the length. Then transfer that to the saw bench as you did the others. That would be equally as exact without measuring.
Your skills are one of the best I’ve seen and find your advice invaluable!! One thing as a non pro I thought I’d mention is in your tips and tricks video when you were building the wainscoting out of poplar. At 15:09 on the 2nd Brad nail you shot for the last larger panel section on the bead install my eye caught a Brad nail that probably hit a knot or followed a grain line and popped out enough for me to see it. As you probably know well Brad nails will worm through grains and to always keep your fingers clear of the shooting path or you’ll get nasty finger stabs! Thought I might mention it as a tip to the novice guys like me. All the best, Sean in Canada.
We do a lot of beaded trim . Sometimes we use beaded trim for around the windows and doors and it flows right into the wainscoting for a truly seamless look.
Sir, this is such clean work. So impressive. I may have said this before but one thing I love to see is another carpenter's pouch with glue all over the outside.....when you don't have a rag, wipe your finger off on your pouch!
Spencer you are AMAZING !!! Totally enjoy your videos man. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I truly appreciate it. Your love for woodworking is contagious.
Great video, really solid techniques and gameplan. Two very small things I would do differently. When you're mitering the beads, you can easily stack 5 or more at a time horizontally and put the first miter on, then change your saw and cut individually to finished length rather than flipping the saw back and forth for every piece. Not a huge net time saving but I can tell that like me you don't like to waste an extra second. Also in general I like to work away from the trickiest wall, in this case the window. I'd put that one in loose at the ends to focus on fit around the window, without worrying about making two perfect joints against the adjacent walls, then work away from that one with the simpler frames. Again these are minor nitpicks, it's a really excellent video.
Everything Spencer said and to add, when you’re getting into double and tripple stacked panels using the kreg clamps becomes a choir. Dominos on the wide setting can be an alternate and when assembling on a sheet of melamine you can get 99% with pinch dogs from the back. Sand out the rest. If you’re having trouble getting joints closed up, try a universal wedge grip clamp and when working with outside corners set up a miter lock bit, run your stiles full length. Knock those out first, dry fit to give you a positive stop to take measurements from.
Great video and lots of great tips. I stick-built the wainscoting in my house, and it took forever. A lot of back & forth and fiddly layout, just like you said. It never occurred to me to build it like a big panel.
Excellent job/ Excelente trabajo - thanks for sharing/gracias por compartir. MI más grande admiración a su talento Spencer thank you so much / muchísimas gracias.
Great video. As a DIYer, these videos are invaluable. Also, nice to hear that a professional gets great results using the Kreg jigs. I really like Kreg, but I know a lot of professionals turn up their noses at the brand.
Dude I’m always impressed. I’m so intrigued by your videos I always tune in thinking I know exactly what your going to do and how your going to do it and every time you prove me wrong.I don’t k ow where you learn your technique but it’s awesome
Try a 1/16" radius bit for edge breaking. It really gives an awesome result. Then you just gotta hit the corners with sandpaper real quick where the router stops short. I'll radius the middle styles before I assemble. Then do the top/botto/sides and break corners router didn't get.
Another outstanding fabrication and installation. Great video, I learned a lot. My time suck has always been in the beginning, measuring and determination of the main panel size.
Stairwell wainscoting is actually not as difficult as it might seem. Once you have the skirt board layout and angle you then seek a visual "weight"/appearance compromise for the visible skirtboard/baseboard match up so the top of your skirt board is slightly above the step nosing and the top of the skirt board where it meets the floor to cap stile at the bottom step lands at the same height as the top of the baseboard. That is the most difficult part of the initial layout and requires a compromise between slightly shorter skirt board and possibly taller/wider baseboard than you may initially imagine but it's better visually than seeing the skirtboard top land way higher than the baseboard top even thogh they are separated by a stile or baluster post. Once you have the skirt board angle you can cut all stiles, rails, caps, etc at that same angle . Having two or three chopsaws helps a lot so one or two can just remain set at that angle in each direction. The stile layout will want to be consistent aligning above every two or three step noses . I prefer a layout with all corner stiles running to the floor so they match the door trim connections to the baseboard and also match the baluster post to skirtboard connection. It is usually possible to create a stile separation layout that is consistent throughout the room/ hallway/entry and centered on each wall then fudge/adjust the widths on the corners and deal with uneven floors by scribing the bottom of each assembled wall unit. I never knew that chopsaws have a consistent pivot point/ length where the blade intersects the fence face. Is that a Dewalt chopsaw he is using? Is that a thing with all chopsaws or just Dewalt? Thanks for this video. I appreciate how you make layout control sticks and stop blocking with shorts inserts.
Fabulous work Spencer as usual. Love the lean methods you incorporate in all your projects. I am a long time in the carpentry trade in Ireland but love learning new techniques to improve workflow especially the older I get. Keep up the good work. Love your chanel
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Spencer I am 67 and have been around carpentry/woodworking since my teens either as a job or hobby. I haven't watched a single one of your videos without learning something new. Well done my man. I look forward to watching more. Thanks!
That's a heckuva compliment!
I’m over 40yrs in the trade myself. The knowledge I gained in this video on the pivot point and cutting bead moulding to size will reflect on my next job
He is very impressive.
Heck iam a Commercial carpenter I have learned a few things myself
I feel so silly I didn’t know the pivot point on a miter saw doesn’t change where the long point is with a stop block. You just saved me so many hours, and gonna make me a lot more money!! Thank you, Spencer.
60 YEAR OLD carpenter here , that thought he knew it all, about production and the use of stop blocks. I just got schooled. The step of using the gage block to cut an additional stop block for the shorter trim is pure genius. OLD DOG NEW TRICK. NEXT LEVEL STUFF
I have no knowledge or skill concerning finish carpentry, but watching a true craftsman work and explain his technique is very entertaining.
I'm a 66 year old finish Termite. Nice job and excellent layout under the tough window that wasn't centered. (are they ever?) Used all the "tricks" myself and enjoyed seeing a young guy do quality work. Most things I see turn my stomach these days. Good job dude!
Aw, Spencer, you always put a smile on my face when I see your new vids!
You're the thinking man's thinking man ... don't burn out on us.
I'm a contractor and I learn something EVERY time!
ABSOLUTELY the smartest trim carpentry video I have ever seen !
3:36
"The battle is won before you even start working“
Words to consider in many of life's endeavors. This is particularly so when working alone with no other people's interruptions.
That pivot point info was worth 100 likes. I will literally let this video play on repeat to say thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I didn't know that people didn't know that about the pivot point.
I also didn't know that people didn't know about the " push the wood into the blade to take off 1/32nd" trick either.
I started as a new guy with a bunch of Spencers, who learned from a bunch of Spencers.
Then I worked for a different company and what I thought was normal, is considered crazy by others.
Also another thing, cutting all the same parts on the same setup.
Sucks when you setup wrong but in general it is way faster.
I’m embarrassed and upset with myself to say this but I’ve been a trim carpenter for 30 years and never new about the pivot point on the miter saw. Thanks for teaching an old dog a new trick. I also appreciate your mindset of tricking the eye to make things look right. I always tell people that trim carpentry is about perfection but the perception of perfection. Great video!!
As an aspiring carpenter myself based in the uk I really enjoy watching your videos, very informative and a pleasure to watch. I love your zero bullshit approach to producing content. Thankyou and Keep up the great work!
This gentleman is a national treasure, please protect him. Thank you!
Great video- I do a lot of trim work, a great trick for a production table is to pull a 34’ or large extension ladder apart and put the 2 ladders next to each other on saw horses, lay some wood sheets down and you have the largest flat production table on any job site….its a game changer
This is a great example of taking a project in advance, and considering the 'middle ground' between total custom (one-at-a-time) building vs total pre-manufactured.
Notice this is neither extreme. And really effective.
Thanks for taking the time to educate everyone! Not just the recording but the editing that's required.
What are the chances that you and I are watching the same finish carpentry videos. LOL. 😂
@@beedubya hahahahahahahaha! My man!
Nothing feels better than a crispy miter!!!!
Haven’t made it halfway through the video yet and I am completely speechless. Any comments I could make are not even worthy of this brilliance.
Great techniques man. I've been trimming for 22 years and the only thing I disagree with you on so far is "smarter not harder" I would say smarter and harder. Thanks
12:04 - making the spacer off a fixed stop block is a fantastic tip. In this case you could also speed up the process by cutting all the 45s on one side first (spacer removed, eyeballing the length leaving a bit of extra), then reinsert the spacer and flip the saw to the other 45 and batch cut all the other edges.
Great video, learning a lot!!
As an avid DIY'er and remodeler I never knew about the miter saw pivot point! Thanks for that tip! It will certainly come in handy in the future.
Thank you so much I can’t believe how much better of a carpenter I have become because of you keep up the great work and again thank you.
I’m a journeyman carpenter/ fine woodworker. I built furniture too. We did a five story building pretty much like you did however we built it in the shop and transported it to the location. , allowing a little bit extra in places for scribe.
As a career cabinet maker, great work! The only thing that I think would have made it faster was a shaper in the shop. Profile the rails. Cut all those mid stiles to length in the shop and cope the ends. Then you could still pocket screw them onsite, and you wouldn’t have to miter any trim in the frames.
You honestly amaze me in every video on your unbelievable knowledge and skill! I’ve learnt a lot from watching your videos and not only have they made me better and more reputable, but I also I enjoy my job a lot more!
I always love your videos. One thing I learn to add to your lesson is move the miter less. Cut on one side for all pieces then rotate to opposite miter once and cut the other side again. All done and you moved the saw one time. I bet you save 1 min
I communicate real well with myself. The four of us really enjoy each others company....😁
You and I are so like
Minded. Just started watching and I'm impressed. Finally someone like me who wants to take a few minutes to save a few hours. My father and other bosses I've worked for over the years don't appreciate it though. If you're standing still you aren't working and they think you are wasting their time and money when in reality you are taking time to figure the most efficient way possible. And why work hard when you can work smart? We all work hard enough as it is. I gotta say I love your bench setup. And I'm only twelve minutes in. I've been trying to convince my father of this and he won't come around. Maybe if I show him this video he will see the light so thank you! One more thing I'd like to add, respectfully. Why not cut all of the left 45's at the same time so you aren't switching the saw back in fourth. I'd understand if you had one long piece maybe, but you had all shorties anyways. Also I predicted that you were going to just add a block in front of the stop block 🙂. I usually end up making my own stop block because our bench is just awful and usually is just plywood with a box on either side... Sometimes I just draw a line instead of using a stop block and when I'm cuting speed base, I always draw on the saw where it was cut so when I flip the miter to cut away most of the base cope, it lines up perfect. I see a lot of people using kreg jigs and I love em, but in my opinion, building on the wall can be just as fast if you know what you're doing and the glue they have these days makes it so you don't need biscotti, screws, or dowels. A little shimming on the wall here and there and some light sanding and you'd never know it wasn't kreg jigged. Would love to show you our way of doing stairs too! We route into the skirts and it comes out so much nicer than the best cut to fit. Thx again for the video and I'll keep watching!
Wow…just thinking how much time I could have saved over the years installing wainscoting! Absolutely great tips Spencer!!
Thanks, Steve
Aspiring finish carpenter. Making the job look easy. Great job. 👍
I always flip the trim on 45° cuts to keep from swinging the saw. I'm sure you know this and there's a reason you just swing the saw each cut anyway you're one best trim carpenter I've seen 👌
Always a great video with solid explanations. The “no tape” approach is common amongst some shipwrights who rarely cut a 90 or 45 degree angle.
Some excellent tips in here. Thank you. I’m sure you cut multiple pieces while the saw it’s in each direction rather than moving the saw back and forth for every cut.
Spence Lewis thank you for the lesson, I appreciate your steadfast dedication to your trade.
Great tips and I enjoyed the video. Only difference in my process is I’ll go though and take the time to cut all my mitres for entire room on one side then move the mitre saw once and cut the other side off my stop blocks. Same process fewer mitre saw turns (probably no faster)
I like how you hung the molding over the RB3 style casting, very detail oriented!
Great video as always. Regarding the backer: I always have the same worry about drywall. Drywall texture isn’t as smooth, especially when doing paneling in a remodel. When it’s in the budget, I build the panel and then rabbet the backside 1/8 deep x 3/4 wide with a router. Staple 1/8” hardboard panels into the rabbet and you get a smooth back panel with a tight joint to the panel.
I usually use hardboard too but in one of my rooms I recently remodeled I just took some taping compound and smoothed out the texture. It worked quite nicely (and the price is right) but is a bit more labor intensive + you get the dreaded drywall dust when you sand it smooth.
I recently did that too. Definitely better than the stipled texture you get from a painted wall. I find it also helps to do a scuff sand after the 1st coat of paint when doing this.
That's a great tip. I do the same thing, only I will skip the routing and apply full sheets directly to the wall to save cutting individual panels and the routing. Flush the top edge to your frame and cover with your cap molding. There is the potential for an issue if your casing does not have enough depth to handle the additional 1/8" buildup, but then again if its not deep enough for that, it's not deep enough for a cap, in which case the room is not ready/should not be getting wainscot at all imo
What are the 1/8" panels called? I would use 1/4" ply but would rather use what you're talking about. Much cheaper.
Stupidly simple to think to cut your inside molding while the stop block is still in the same spot. Makes one slap oneself in the forehead! D'oh! Genius! Thanks for that, Spencer.
Can't wait to see the finished room.
Been binge watching since your channel popped up and I have subscribed. Been in many houses with trim carpenters in there and they leave an absolute mess. Not only are you an excellent trim Carpenter you keep your work area tidy. 👍
Don't screw over the next guy, especially because it could be you 🤣
I watch your videos all time. Very informative. Wish I were 40s younger to start all over in my career. Great basis for starting out.! Keep it up.
That’s really good to know that the length doesn’t change when you pivot the miter saw!
Only if you don't put an aux "zero clearance" backing fence on.
Just read Pete Brown's response... that's why I never realized the pivot point consistency... I almost never use a chopsaw without a "zero clearance " auxiliary fence... it is good for avoiding tearout but also for cutting to a line.
"Nice and Crispy" - I love it. Great job and thank you for the money-making tips.
Pretty Stinking Good! Between you and Richard, I have it down. FYI. Richard is using Windsor One because it is consistently of a high quality, it is a system, everything fits together, and it is prepainted, not finished, but better than primed. All in all he likes the quality better than going with raw wood/mdf or using some generic molding. You did an amazing job. Love it. The only thing I would do different is not measure the final boxes but use two sticks or skinny pieces of cardboard, slide them apart to inside of your box. Then tape/glue them together. That way you get an exact piece the length you need. Measuring can be inconsistent. My father, a long time ago, made a ruler that was two pieces of ash that slid apart. He put it together with some brass sheet metal. Looked real nice. He used that for inside measurements. No numbers needed!
Belt clip ont these Stanley FatMax tapes must feel like the blinkers in BMWs.
Thanks for adjusting down the outro volume.
You've made an amazing job with the wainscoting.
I like to burnish the outside corners of the installed wainscoting. It really covers the mitred edge.
Straight lining, plumb off the wall and level with datum reference lines is important. Then some panel adhesive helps over time with the nails acting as the clamp. Considering the the material being used (Poplar) the finger joint lengths being used could pose a problem over time where the joints meet. Pieces tend to react differently to atmospheric conditions which can expose the joints under the paint. Using water based paints can do this as well. Just some observations. I like the beaded frame. I bought that beading bit and milled a ton of bead molding. I had the mill run it for me but they couldn't do it like I wanted it. So, I did it. Nice work on your part. Good channel to teach methods. Cheers
Look at all the caked on dry glue on that work belt. Love it. [4:39]
You are a very clever carpenter in how you spend your time completing your work. Incredible and informative video
Excellent video! For that last panel which has a varying width, you could make a sliding length guide out of 2 pieces of strip wood. Place it in, slide it to length and have maybe a wing nut or equivalent to tighten and fix the length. Then transfer that to the saw bench as you did the others. That would be equally as exact without measuring.
Thanks so much Spencer! Totally appreciate your awesome tips/tricks! Always look forward to your videos. Great works as always...
Your skills are one of the best I’ve seen and find your advice invaluable!! One thing as a non pro I thought I’d mention is in your tips and tricks video when you were building the wainscoting out of poplar. At 15:09 on the 2nd Brad nail you shot for the last larger panel section on the bead install my eye caught a Brad nail that probably hit a knot or followed a grain line and popped out enough for me to see it. As you probably know well Brad nails will worm through grains and to always keep your fingers clear of the shooting path or you’ll get nasty finger stabs! Thought I might mention it as a tip to the novice guys like me. All the best, Sean in Canada.
We do a lot of beaded trim . Sometimes we use beaded trim for around the windows and doors and it flows right into the wainscoting for a truly seamless look.
Sir, this is such clean work. So impressive. I may have said this before but one thing I love to see is another carpenter's pouch with glue all over the outside.....when you don't have a rag, wipe your finger off on your pouch!
Spencer you are AMAZING !!! Totally enjoy your videos man. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I truly appreciate it. Your love for woodworking is contagious.
You are a star Spencer! I truly enjoyed it from the start to end. Very very well done mate. Thank you so much man.
Not a finish carpenter, but smarter now than yesterday. Thanks for the ‘black magic’ tips!
Great video, really solid techniques and gameplan. Two very small things I would do differently. When you're mitering the beads, you can easily stack 5 or more at a time horizontally and put the first miter on, then change your saw and cut individually to finished length rather than flipping the saw back and forth for every piece. Not a huge net time saving but I can tell that like me you don't like to waste an extra second. Also in general I like to work away from the trickiest wall, in this case the window. I'd put that one in loose at the ends to focus on fit around the window, without worrying about making two perfect joints against the adjacent walls, then work away from that one with the simpler frames. Again these are minor nitpicks, it's a really excellent video.
Everything Spencer said and to add, when you’re getting into double and tripple stacked panels using the kreg clamps becomes a choir.
Dominos on the wide setting can be an alternate and when assembling on a sheet of melamine you can get 99% with pinch dogs from the back. Sand out the rest.
If you’re having trouble getting joints closed up, try a universal wedge grip clamp and when working with outside corners set up a miter lock bit, run your stiles full length.
Knock those out first, dry fit to give you a positive stop to take measurements from.
Great tip! Love the Black Magic
That's beautiful wood work.
Awesome workmanship
Great video and lots of great tips.
I stick-built the wainscoting in my house, and it took forever. A lot of back & forth and fiddly layout, just like you said. It never occurred to me to build it like a big panel.
Great job Lewis, thanks for sharing.
They look terrific!
Good thing you had access to get those large sections into the room.
Excellent work as usual Spence.
Magic, indeed! Thank you!
You're a wizard Harry!
Looks fantastic 😊. Very few people have your level of craftsmanship.
Excellent job/ Excelente trabajo - thanks for sharing/gracias por compartir. MI más grande admiración a su talento Spencer thank you so much / muchísimas gracias.
Great quality, great look, nice job.
Great video. As a DIYer, these videos are invaluable. Also, nice to hear that a professional gets great results using the Kreg jigs. I really like Kreg, but I know a lot of professionals turn up their noses at the brand.
Dude I’m always impressed. I’m so intrigued by your videos I always tune in thinking I know exactly what your going to do and how your going to do it and every time you prove me wrong.I don’t k ow where you learn your technique but it’s awesome
Excellent work, total pro
Fantastic video. Learned so much.
Top,notch as always sir!
Try a 1/16" radius bit for edge breaking. It really gives an awesome result. Then you just gotta hit the corners with sandpaper real quick where the router stops short. I'll radius the middle styles before I assemble. Then do the top/botto/sides and break corners router didn't get.
I use a 1/16 radius pilot all the time for face frames. Given the bead moulding I don't think it would look as nice here.
Great work I love using stop blocks
Pl premium baby. Love that stuff.
And great work as always!!
Crispy! Nice work.
Amazing work as always, great to see a master at his trade.. 👍
Another outstanding fabrication and installation. Great video, I learned a lot. My time suck has always been in the beginning, measuring and determination of the main panel size.
You are one of the best Carpenters
Amazing work Spencer.
great infomation. Thank you for taking the time to show us,
Maybe you could do a video on how you handle those electrical boxes and issues when they are in you way! Thanks, great info as always.
Great job! Thank you for sharing your secrets
Wow! I didn’t know that about the pivot point. Thanks for the video! I really enjoy this channel and learning from you.
Great job and thanks for sharing, would love to see how you do this process on a stairwell too.
Stairwell wainscoting is actually not as difficult as it might seem. Once you have the skirt board layout and angle you then seek a visual "weight"/appearance compromise for the visible skirtboard/baseboard match up so the top of your skirt board is slightly above the step nosing and the top of the skirt board where it meets the floor to cap stile at the bottom step lands at the same height as the top of the baseboard. That is the most difficult part of the initial layout and requires a compromise between slightly shorter skirt board and possibly taller/wider baseboard than you may initially imagine but it's better visually than seeing the skirtboard top land way higher than the baseboard top even thogh they are separated by a stile or baluster post. Once you have the skirt board angle you can cut all stiles, rails, caps, etc
at that same angle . Having two or three chopsaws helps a lot so one or two can just remain set at that angle in each direction. The stile layout will want to be consistent aligning above every two or three step noses . I prefer a layout with all corner stiles running to the floor so they match the door trim connections to the baseboard and also match the baluster post to skirtboard connection. It is usually possible to create a stile separation layout that is consistent throughout the room/ hallway/entry and centered on each wall then fudge/adjust the widths on the corners and deal with uneven floors by scribing the bottom of each assembled wall unit. I never knew that chopsaws have a consistent pivot point/ length where the blade intersects the fence face. Is that a Dewalt chopsaw he is using? Is that a thing with all chopsaws or just Dewalt? Thanks for this video. I appreciate how you make layout control sticks and stop blocking with shorts inserts.
👏👍fantastic Spencer
This is going to be very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Beautiful work as always and very clever techniques! Thank you for your content it is much appreciated! 🙏
Really nice work, man.
Fabulous work Spencer as usual. Love the lean methods you incorporate in all your projects. I am a long time in the carpentry trade in Ireland but love learning new techniques to improve workflow especially the older I get. Keep up the good work. Love your chanel
Very good idea thanks for sharing.
Top notch Spencer!!!
Thanks! Amazing video, learned a lot.
Talent!
Awesome work
You are Really good,thank you Who ever you learned from, new you where going to to far! Ray