Shiplap VS Nickel Gap | Nickel Gap is Better!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we take at the differences between Shiplap & Nickel Gap. Shiplap is the common terminology but nickel gap has some distinct advantages in terms of installation and quality of the finished product.
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(0:00) Intro
(1:18) Nickel Gap Milled Profile
(1:51) Shiplap Milled Profile
(2:46) Material Thickness Matters
(4:10) Ease of Installation
(4:34) Shiplap Reveal is Adjustable
(5:25) Face Nailing is Bad
(7:09) Should You Use Adhesive
(10:50) Fastest Installation
(11:46) Best Material Choice???
(13:15) MDF is Easy to Install
(13:54) Material Must Be Sanded
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Take a drink every time he drops the board demonstration.
And as a former residential house painter…I would highly recommend not using semi-gloss paint in darks colours! The flatter the paint, the better it looks. And today’s matte paints are high quality, washable, and easy to touch up. :)
Interior I only use Semigloss. If exterior I use semi gloss in a darker tree in house. Semi gloss shows off light so much better and is durable more water resistant.
@@mikewhite9818 ugh..semi-gloss is not nice on interiors. You will see every bit that drywallers did not get perfect. Never for walls and ceilings. Only on trim.
@@empressche333 I use semi gloss on interiors for better light utilization. Sometimes I do have to use two coats to improve paint coverage. The second coat goes a long way to hide imperfections. If one looked real hard some flaws still remain but is over shadowed by huge improvement in light night and day. It is also a tougher paint little less likely to be damaged with scratches and user clean up of spills and marks much improved.
Semi-gloss is for your high lights- doors, casing, base and crown. If you want to put it on an entire wall, I hope they live close to you. Because you'll be doing call backs for a long time.
Spencer, for appearing to be so young you sure seem to have a lot of knowledge about your profession. You should have a Million subscribers, every one that views your content should subscribe. I have learned and been made aware of so much knowledge and information about woodworking and how to do a much better job at my tasks. Much of what you teach us, many others do not know and therefore do not share. God bless you keep up the great work and keep us educated.
Here in Arizona we don't do a lot of shiplap, but when I do, I do like the MDF. However, I usually install AND paint. To me it is easier to sand the whole project, with a cordless sander, after installation. To me it saves a lot of time instead of doing each board by itself. God bless, great video! 🙏🏻👍🏻👊🏻
Very informative, Spencer. And a good demo of your quick reflexes there toward the beginning of the vid!
So much Information on one video so I'm definitely gonna rewind and listen closely BUT!!! What I did get out of this lesson is that YOUR ONE OF FEW CARPENTERS THAT CARES ABOUT HIS FINAL FINISH LOOK. My hats off to you Dear Sir. Peace and love from Texas.
Thanks Spencer! Your videos are always a must see!
Great video! I’ve done miles of this stuff in only solid pine and poplar. No finger joints. Your right it’s tricky if you don’t have solid strategies for dealing with it. I think this stuff is fun to do. Because I’ve used this type of material I always use glue. Acts like a liquid shim. If the framing is parallel to the material I’ll glue and screw up strips of 3/4ply 16oc to nail and glue into. On the wider stuff, I’ll true the boards with a track saw and router. The gaps can be inconsistent so I always have spacers cut up. A case for sanding after install, I’ve done rooms with the roughy side out, to then have the customer ask it to be smooth, after filling all the nail holes, a hard pad on a Festool Rotex made really quick work of flattening everything to the point it looked milled. I definitely agree that sanding everything before you put it up is a great guarantee the painter will make you work shine. Using MDF looks really fast compared to my experiences.
Fantastic and educational video. Also very encouraging to see people who actually CARE about what they are doing. No idea what you charge but I'm sure you're worth every dime.
What an absolute professional. I am an amateur DIY, and I learned what I needed to learn with respect to putting up some pine tongue and groove stuff. But you go beyond and enter into a realm of pure perfection and art. Thanks for this great lesson.
Thanks for a great explanation and insights on this product and installation , love following your channel , have learned tons so far
Great instruction. One of the best explanatory videos I've watched. Thank you.
Fantastic information. I wouldn’t have even considered using MDF.
And your clear and concise instructions comparing and contrasting on the processes is really helping me make my mind up.
I’d much rather use T&G nickel gap using MDF eliminating exposed nail holes.
Great video, especially since shiplap is so popular nowadays. As a DIYer and hobby woodworker, I love your videos man. Clear, relevant and valuable information. Also, its clear you take immense pride in your work and it shows in the quality of the result. Keep em coming!
My entire career was built off inconsistencies. Tweeking, prying, leveling, planeing, adjusting but mostly cussing, under my breath. And
then came MDF. Good product that takes away the tweeking, sanding, adjusting, etc.
God forbid this house has a roof leak, AC shut down for days or rising water.
Anyway, good video.
Are you saying you approve of MDF for this application, but sanding it is a mistake?
@@vidpie I'm just old school. I'm sure that job was way easier using MDF than wood. If you have to sand down MDF more than a piece of paper then something is wrong with the installation because it is consistent in thickness.
I have had an mdf board (bare) sitting in a garage for years. Hot, cold, humid. Still looks brand new. IMO mdf is fine as long as it does not physically contact water.
@@Faruk651lol. You mean like a kitchen or bathroom where it's most popular to put shiplap?
great style. easy to watch. no drama. no performance. good info.
Great video. Thanks for looking out for painters. You are as professional as it gets. Continued success.
Thanks so much Spencer, I do custom woodworking but haven't done shiplap. Of all the videos I've reviewed today, yours is it absolute best primer on the subject. Great Job! I was not aware of Nickel Back, but will certainly choose that for the installation.
Great rundown. I actually used nickels to establish the groove (reveal) in shiplap to get the nickel gap look. Boards are horizontal and air-nailed to studs so no inconsistencies. The cost of premilled t&g was double that of rabeted. Used 3/4 pine from a mill, so the wood was VERY consistent. Also got longer lengths custom cut to wall lengths so there are NO butt joints. After painting I wanted the knots to eventually bleed through. This wood was not heavily knotted. But the mill did deliver paint ready boards. I used a sprayed on primer and sprayed the finish in a satin Navahoe White. It came out beautiful. Now, 2 years later the knot bleed thru is a nice homey feature.
Apply varnish to knot before painting to limit bleed thru
@@RJ-sr5dv I actually wanted the knot bleed thru. Took a couple of years but looks really nice now.
Hi Spencer, I saw those boards needlessly attack you and it was clearly unprovoked. Let me know if you need a witness when you nail those guys in court. 🤣🤣 Another great video.
I’m a witness too! Nail those guys to the wall!!! 😀
😂😂😂😂😂
Thoroughly enjoyed this video, keep up the great work 👍
Excellent information. You clearly helped me to decide on the MDF nickel gap for the install I am preparing for. A 10’ x14’ wall installation (possibly ceiling as well) with a horizontal install over studs in a below-ground location. The basement CMU walls have been coated for water proofing, bonded closed cell insulation over the CMU and then studs abutting the insulation board, with anchored bottom plate to concrete and top plate anchored to overhead floor joists.
How did it go?
How did you attach to the CMU?
Hopefully you back prime your mdf as its really susceptible to moisture common to cold basements as well as a final coat on all surfaces.
You’re a good man Spencer, giving all that consideration for the painters.
I’m in North Carolina. Never heard tong and grove called nickel gap. It’s cool to see how the same products have different names.
Great work and great content.
Thanks
Nickel Gap refers to the gap, or reveal, you see. Some have bevels, some are square, but it's t&g anywhere you go. Could be 3/32"gap, 1/4" gap whatever gap you want. I think, but not positive, nickle gap is 1/8".
Exactly right about the thicker material hiding old wall stud inconsistency. I redid an old 1,000 sq ft cottage and if I had used 1/2" stuff it would have been wavy unless I put an extra backer behind it. I wanted 8" T&G...started looking at pine, but ended up going with MDF and because the quality of the real wood stuff was picked through, knotted, bent and dinged up. No regrets.
Great video, I learned a lot, thank you. Thinking about doing this in my house and think I like the nickel gap look better. MDF is the way to go!
So much knowledge for someone your age. Thank you for sharing it with us.
Your videos are fantastic thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I appreciate the time and dedication to explain it.
👋 spencer
Thanks for all your teaching
Love your tool review
Very honest 👍
Tons of things in this video that I didn't think about. Thanks for the info!
Excellent points all & great advice scattered throughout.
Love this guys videos probably my favorite guy to watch on you tube and his van set up is off the hook!
Great explanation. I've seen some guys use actual nickels to space 1x's during installation...you know who you are.
Awesome vid! Curious on how you address inside and outside corners particularly with horizontally installed nickel gap. Thanks again
Outstanding. Thanks for all the great info.
Damn! I'm glad I watched your video! I'm thinking about doing a ship lap with stained wood but I might have to re-think everything after watching this. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the great information! I had no idea there was a difference between the two.
Great video, very informative,
well done!
There is a product from Homedepot that is basically ship-lap - BUT - the gap between boards can be TWO different widths, as the overlap is different on each side. Kind-of convenient ( except when you don't notice it, and accidentally have uneven gaps in an occasional place ).
Spencer your content is sooooo good!!!
Great video!! Very informative 😊
Thank you
Very informative! Your patience with those boards was outstanding. I would've been cursing every time one fell 😅
Love your videos man and I really dug your list of books...was surprised you have read the Enneagram. Anyway I ordered Margins. Thanks for the videos.
Very helpful video! Thank you!
Very good explanation. Thanks
I work as a grader in a sawmill making these boards out of spf. We much prefer to make 116&wp4 pattern, but penny gap or nickelgap are the next best!
Very informative. Thanks.
Good to know! Would love to see the final product painted and all … 👍🏼
*Welcome back*
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Nice job mate, I think that’s the most I’ve seen you drop stuff in one video! Lol. And not one snigger, any bloopers??
If you do what you teach.. you are AWESOME👍👍👍👍
Very educative video. Big-up!!!
Ok, first I wanna thank you for being meticulous and doing your job correctly. Too many people out there saying “that’s good enough“.
Secondly I want your advice. I’m going to do a small wall and shiplap and hang cast-iron skillet’s on that wall. Do you recommend yellow pine instead of MDF because of the density? Thanks for your videos.
MDF will work just fine and paint up better. Pine you will see the grain through the paint.
This was so helpful, thank you!! I'm definitely going with T&G!
Great job hombre, subscribed!
Super informative video!
Great video. Thank you!
Excellent video, thank you for sharing this information. God bless 🙏
Your clients are lucky to have you.
Hi Spencer
I’m fairly new to your channel mate & I really love it. Thanks.
Found this video interesting 👍👍👍👍
Welcome aboard!
Good information and all true. Thank you.
Something new to learn. Thx bro
Thank you for your video. Excellent.
I have installed solid pine tongue and groove 16 footers and like you say they are almost impossible to install. I've not installed the MDF but I can definitely agree with your assessment that it's much more dimensionally stable. I have ripped down some 1/4"sheets of MDF to make a faux nickel gap in it turns out fairly well when I use a gauge for spacing and I do a slight round over so that the corners aren't snagged or damaged as easily.
T&G Pine ,especially on a vaulted ceiling, is a complete nightmare requiring lots of labor and perseverance. MDF is the way to go. Unfortunately many customers LOVE that wood grain so be prepared to fight the Devil Pine. Ju$t make it worth your while.
On my real wood jobs, I take a scrap 2x and nail ahead of a bow or non locking piece, I use clamps turned backwards to push against the 2x and the t&g to press it in place then nail. Works well with pine/spruce porch ceilings as well. It’s amazing how impossible a piece may seem til you get the clamps out. Goes right in. May cost me an hour over a 250-300sqft area. IMO, totally worth it
I like that dust cover for the saw.
Love your videos. Keep up the good work. Glad to see you finally stepped up to a chop saw hood. They work great for keeping the house, and your lungs, just that much more dust free.
Great overview. I'm looking to plank my kitchen and family room ceilings. One thing you my have missed... when installing planking that runs parallel to the ceiling joists, you will need nailer strips perpendicular to them to permit a good install. With nickel gap they lock together between the parts nailed to the strips, whereas shiplap will float between the sections nailed to the nailer strips and may warp over time.
Another benefit I see is the nickel gap *may* be easier to remove in the event you need to do so. My bathroom sits above one side of my kitchen and should I ever have a pipe leak, it would have to be pulled to get to the underside of that bathroom, so my plan is to use more expensive thin-shank screws in that area and not nail. That way, I can easily remove the sections needed.
Question (if you see this)... since you recommend sanding the pre-primed boards before install and I completely agree, is there any advantage to also pre-painting them on smaller installs? I'm only doing a couple ceilings, as mentioned above, and it may be an advantage to pre-paint for me and it would keep the reveal groves in better shape. Paint tends to fill in narrow gaps causing inconsistency.
Damn good video Spencer. A lot of good information!
Ron
Thanks!
Our nickel gap in the Detroit market is all shiplap style, I haven't seen any here that is T&G. I definitely see the advantage of the T&G type, now I wish we had it here!
Menards sells it.
In eastern NC its almost always rabbited shiplap made from primed finger jointed pine. T&G i see mostly is clear finish pine or stained and installed in ceilings. Haven't seen either in an MDF yet but get a healthy dose of it in bigger crown and closet build ins. DB
Super helpful. Many thanks.
As a small millwork producer, I love to hear what everybody likes and dislikes! Latest craze for me to run has been flooring that is used as ceiling and wall covering. Full rough face reclaimed barnwood, personally not my cup of tea but I make what the client wants. I can explain snipe in a video much better than a description typed out.
Spencer, do you have a custom producer near you or just getting it from the big yards? I only ask because it seems like the small custom guys are disappearing all over the place.
My wholesaler is koetter woodworking. They will also custom produce whatever I need…for a price. Lol
I’ve installed several nickel gap “rabbeted” ship lap that has a tongue and grove incorporated set up on it. It’s and MDF product made by Alexandria MDF products.
Great work!
Thanks. your english is easy to understand.
I noticed that the greatest singular denominator to grow an already popular TH-cam channel is "frequency of uploads". If Spencer were to upload several videos per week he would most likely explode in subscribers. The bonus for him would be a handsome TH-cam income. Especially given the genre he belongs to/family friendly.
One video a week has been my sweet spot. To much content and it’s more than the loyal subscriber base will reasonably consume in a week.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Issaquah, WA 🇺🇸
Hope you enjoyed the video Great information
great video! thank you
I glue and face nailed my shiplap. the trick to not seeing nail holes is overfilling them and sanding it flush. The brad nail mushrooms the surface of the board so I glue sandpaper to a piece of board and use that to sand it flush. It looks perfect after paint but is a lot of work. thanks for the vid.
I'm with you. The holes can totally disappear with the right prep and technique, but I don't expect most carpenters to go to the extent you and I do to make that happen.
If using a spackle I think that since it's water based it will raise the grain of the wood fibers and require more sanding. i like to put a little oil primer in the nail holes to seal the wood before filling them.
Man, I'm a little bit about the overkill but I use adhesive behind both at any time regardless of backing. I believe the one job I did vertical Poplar T&G nailed to sheeted plywood walls I still used adhesive 😂
Best shiplap video on youtube
Nicely Done Budy Great Job 👍🏼📐🔨
I agree with the mdf over wood!
People give mdf a bad name it’s better then wood in some cases. That’s way flooring doesn’t come in long lengths.
I have installed tons of Cedar and Pine tongue and groove on walls and ceilings.
it’s so hard to work with cups, twist, cracking, knots falling out and the tongue is not fitting because the woods swelled too much just a nightmare
On a tounge and groove application, you really do not nail through the tounge, but slightly above the tounge ,down at a 45 degree angle , catching the back side edge. It helps to pre drill for the nailing process!
No need to pre drill when using a power nailer!
Great info. Any thoughts for exterior siding installation. Vertical and horizontal. Thanks for the video.
Nice video Spencer.
Hi Spencer, I am aware that a lot of your houses in the USA are temperature control environments. In Australia very few houses are, so to ensure the longevity of the MDF, every time you cut it you should seal it. I normally use a premier-seal one coat, if you don't then down the road you will find the MDF acts as a wick and will pull in any and all humidity, moisture or water it can find. Yes it might take a few years but once it starts to swell there is not stopping it, other than to replace it.
Interesting...I've been scoffed at a lot for doing that to the backs and cut ends of mdf trim, but it doesn't make sense to me to have a sponge sitting there waiting to soak up whatever liquids or vapors are spilled on it. I dunno perhaps for where I live it's a major waste of time
Great info thanks
How do you possibly have enough time between working and making these videos? Dot get me wrong, the videos are great, and you are very knowledgeable about carpentry! Thank you very much for the videos. There's just not enough time in a day for things that need to be done for me, much less, making a video. So, thanks much for the videos!
It's not easy. Thankfully now I have a great video editor.
Awesome video.
Excellent marquee behind a saw to collect dust 👍👍👍👍
Great video!
We are doing a remodel on a small house, and after your video, we will likely do MDF T & G Nickel Gap for the ceiling. We have areas in the ceiling where we need to butt the raw ends of the MDF boards. What are your tips for getting a nice job of butting the board ends? Or do you have a video on that?
I did nickel-gap at my church in "foyer" a couple years ago, first time. Last week did a 13'w×9'ht, both Menard's supplies. Just side job handyman type Diy/er , job switching
True professional. Would have loved to of had you do my house.
Great video, thank you. Do you put the baseboards and trim on after the installation? Is the trim installed on top of the nickel gap or ate they butted up to one another? Thanks in Advance.
Great tips 👍😀 thx
hi man! very nice video! you are one of the best and you should keep going on! the biggest problem here in NW you can't find that material! can you suggest some dealers-providers?
Great work