I really enjoy your vids. Great progress. Don't knock yourself, your depth of knowledge and kiwi ingenuity is impressive and a joy to watch. Showing us your failures and frustrations takes courage too, so keep going. Thanks for your content.
One thing I know for sure is that once you go riding down the road you'll have a lot of heads turning and people will be taking pictures of you 💯 your the Man 💯
Bravo! Well, done my friend. I have always been fascinated by gyroscopes and seeing one being used in application (as opposed to demonstration purposes ) is really cool. 😎
The bike is looking more Cyberpunk with each episode. Magic Blue Smoke electrical gremlins are common on projects like this. It takes time and patience to sort them all out, I have confidence you will prevail.
hell yeah that's sick. subbed when u referenced that monorail video last episode - gyro is so goddamn baller. hope u use that crazy monorail geared gyro design! can't tell you how unreasonably pumped i was when this uploaded u guys kick ass over there love from the states
Use a relay to control the gyro motor (low amps through the controls and big amps only to the motor). Keep your motorcycle wiring separate from the accessories, specially the high draw items (gyro and stabilizers). Those little switches can't handle much more than a few amps.
Got to say I’m surprised how much the giro seems to do but it looks like you are heading in the right direction. Saying that, the 3 wheeler option isn’t a bad one. If you could set up leaning suspension, it’d be a blast to drive and look pretty cool.
Thicker low gauge wiring doesn't overheat. All cable comnectors, relays, switches and fuses related to the wires that are overheating needs to be heavy duty rated for higher amps. Try adding more thiker ground wires to both battery to frame chasis, and battery to engine.
try using a relay to engage your gyro. that's what they're intended to do is allow a low voltage switch energize a high output circuit. fried many things until i learned what a relay was for.. awesome build bro
@@DktheWelderwhat you really need is a current control method. The motor wants to pull too many amps as it's turning so slowly at the beginning it's effectively stalled. Something like a CV CC power supply or regulator would allow for gentler starting without melting the motor, wires, switches or fuses. Maybe look into getting a flipsky FSESC6.7 they're good little units, with a skateboard motor. They have shitloads of options and are very powerful. It's more complicated than what you have now but .. there's advantages
@@jotham123 thats for 3 phase bldc motors, he have brushed dc motor, look for pwm dc motor controllers, they are much simpler things, alternately he could use two stage start by using some big resistor in series with the motor to limit the stall current for startup and when motor spins up to some speed, short the resistor with the second switch
@@ekstrapolatoraproksymujacy412 yes for flipsky vesc a new motor would be required, but would allow for huge RPM and power increase. Those are good alternatives as you suggest.
The rim mount is brilliant! To get the gyro wheels to angle hopefully they don't need to be hogged out too much for self aligning bearings. Maybe you could drive the second wheel off the back of the first with a spherical gear(hail 3D printing)? Like if the second motor doesn't want to fit right or something. Love the louvers! Gotta love your 360 shots all the time too. Sweet camera with some cool software. I always thought they automatically focused on detected movement. TIL'd.
What makes this great is how you don't give up and you keep chipping at it. This is how thing's become possible when everyone else would just walk away. Great vid! Oh and don't get grounded by mum lol
you could run a custom script on a raspberry pi to operate your gyro whenever to tilt past a certain degree and have it match your throttle as well. Control relay may also increase reliability of circuit as it would ensure proper voltage and wattage.
those brushed dc motors like the one youre using are great but have a couple drawbacks.. One, they have no means to dissipate heat , theyre well sealed as most kids scooter designs see a lot of abuse . 2 .. they will draw a ton of amperage running 1-1 gearing on any object heavier than a feather, so 3-1 would reduce the amp draw and also solve the heat problem.. But it would also reduce the gyroscope effectiveness also. A heavier gyro at low rpm might be more feasible than a light one at 9000 rpm,, Id personally try to spin a 3 lb plate at 1000 rpm and see how that works.
I would put electric motors on the front and rear wheel.. and convert the whole thing to electric, put batteries on bottom center to help hold it upright.
This is an awesome bike but the gyroscope is now the most interesting part. I really want to see you work through a solution there. I know that’s wayyyy easier said than done but it would be awesome!
I know people love the gyro but everything needs to work together, there is definitely a way to do it what I need is a big dollar sponsorship so I can buy some good components
The end was epic! It reminded me of when i was a kid! Brought home my Suzuki RMX after it got full crank case split. Bottom end rebuild all new bearings. Team Suzuki racing triple ring piston and some slightly under sprung 2rings and the other very tight. 14:1 compression needed avgas/kerosene blend or BP100. It would bruise your foot kick starting it in anything other than motorbike boots. Roll starting 4th gear was the preferred option on this fire shoot assault weapon. Brand new knobby tyre pick a gear and smashed up the gears and roost the size of an electrical pole and left a solid stripe up the paddock.....but the echo of this thing cracking and clapping back off and hill side was something else. We lived on acreage. But was roll reversal. It was mum saying "oh you want till your father sees the paddock when he gets home!" How to fix a potentially angry father before he can get angry? Kickstart the bike the moment he got out of the car 😁 Helmet in hand boots beside the bike and pop flames in his face let him whiff hipo 2 stroke and put 20mm of veg oil in the mix just so it had that Castor oil smell off early period 2 stroke race bikes 👌 "Holy f**king shit that things an animal!' Take it for blat dad. I went and even opened the gate to the same paddock. He fking stomped that thing picking mono as he hit 6th gear because he forgot to downshift and got all squirrelly towards the end and didn't think he was going to pull up in time but the new tyres worked so well 👌 Now if i left a stripe my father dug a trench just about? he muttered through his helmet 'naughty boy!' All i say back was "should seed this with a row of passion fruits or pumpkins with that trench you just dug?" His response was 'hang on let me give it another whirl 😉' I let my father absolutely butcher the paddock to shit so then it wasn't my fault.. Happy days
Bro, I can't believe you only have 50k subs. Well I'll add one to that... To help you out with the overheating wires, If the motor is 150W its drawing 12.5 amps at 12 volts. To give you some padding for a stronger motor, lets say you want to use a 250 watt motor. That motor will pull around 20 amps of current. Knowing that and assuming the wire run from the battery to the motor is 4 feet or 1.2 meters, you will need a minimum wire gauge of 10 awg or 6 mm sq. This is the size wire needed that can handle that much current without overheating and melting itself. It will also allow the motor to run more optimally since voltage drop due to current limitations are removed. All in all, the wire got hot because it couldn't carry enough current to the motor. When a wire heats up its impedance to electrical flow increases. When impedance increases, it further reduces the current flow, which further heats up the wire. It's a vicious cycle that ends with molten wire on a good day or a fire on a bad one.
Very good explanation! Yes I got some wire to handle 30 amps , I think that motor is so loaded up on startup that it is drawing more than the 150w , problem is now the gas motor is not working! I have fried something as one coil pack isn’t working
@@DktheWelder As for the motor, you should have one signal generator that leads to one ignitor, and that ignitor leads to two ignition coils. The one ignitor uses a wasted spark system so the white wire from the ignitor sparks cylinders 1 and 4 and the black and yellow wire from the ignitor to the coil sparks cylinders 2 and 3. Knowing this you can check which cylinders are not firing and test the coil. You can test the primary and secondary ignitor coils with a multimeter (primary has the leads from the ignitor / secondary goes to the spark plugs). Primary coil should measure a resistance of 3 to 5 ohm and the secondary should measure 30 to 50k ohm. If the ignitor coils are in spec you should test the resistance of the signal generator that is before the ignitor. Connecting your leads to the green wire and black wire you should measure 130 - 200 ohms. If you measure between the blue wire and yellow wire you should also get 130 - 200 ohm. From what I can see the blue and yellow feed power to the coil for cylinder 1 and 4 and black and green feed 2 and 3. If all of those resistance measurements check good then you will likely need a new ignitor unit, although it is also testable. PS there each coil has two wires on top, one from the ignitor and one from the ignition switch. If you cant measure 12 volts from the orange/white cable on each coil to the negative battery terminal the wire for ignition is also damaged, but since two cylinders work I doubt that's the case. Sorry for the long comment.
Geet researcher guy here. I built a scooter some years ago with a pantone reactor on it got my bike to run on vapors of vegetable oil... I gotta say this channel is super brilliant DIY engineering!
Look up ampricity ratings for your wire. You under sized the wire so it basically turned them into resistance heaters as you were drawing too much current for the wire size.
Wonder if you could drive the gyro directly off the engine crankshaft via a chain or a belt. Come out through engine's side cover, then outside of the main drive chain. As a side note, that large center-less sprocket looks neat! Also surprising that this gyro is working at all since it's not an active stabilizer.
You can throw away the electrical motor and just throw in a planetary gear set with a free spin clutch... Bring that giant sprocket in by welding arms to it a smaller sprocket that can run the planetary gear. Hook that up to a moped clutch so when you stop the weight keeps moving, the ratio can be set up to pretty insane numbers so setting the springs on the clutch to disengage at whatever rpm you think is good is kind of important.
Overheating and melting wires is super sketchy. It might be time to set up fuses outside of the cabin and bump up wire gauges in case you get a melt and arcing
For the electric motors a vfd or esc you could make it so they spin up slowly instead of instant 100% power. That puts a lot of stress om the system. Also, are you still going to do the opposing flywheels? I wonder how mirroring the fly wheel you have now on the other side of the hub and have the two spinning opposite direction would work.
Your gyro system looks peretty much exactly the same as the one in the gyro monorail from 1800s that never went commercial did you learn from that one?
0:36 Well you at least still have the guard on the grinder! If it explodes you should be much safer than those impaled with shrapnel. Your eyes however...
I could prefect this design or at the very least greatly improve it. Contact me if you want the specs and or a mock-up of a real working gyro that would actually be cheap to manufacture (at home) and work with what you currently have.. It could be a simple mechanical gyro that would work with the design and specifications of your bike. Please contact me!
Any electrical features need to be controlled using a relay. Positive wires stay connected and trigger the device on and off by switching the ground lead to the relay. Just be sure to use a high amp relay and thick STRANDED wire! Like the stranded wire that is used in high powered car stereos or even welding cable wire. Thin strands of wire totaling a thick collective overall gauge wire. It will eliminate the wire and device melting issues. And if you need sudden surges of power all at once then use capacitors. Again…high end car stereo stuff works fine. Don’t use thick stranded commercial electrical wire for 12vdc applications. You need to think of it as surface area is your friend. The more surface area you can pass the high amps thru the better and cooler wire temps you’ll have. And if you’re really looking for efficiency then ditch the copper stuff and use silver or graphene based wire. It’s about 15-20% more efficient than copper. Meaning you can get away with using thinner gauge wire. It’s more expensive but it’ll save the equipment and overall wasted time fixing meltdowns. If you really want to get that bike moving fast and efficient then ditch the gasoline engine and go full EV! It’ll be MUCH FASTER! And the power is INSTANTANEOUS! Look into Beyond Motors. It’s an amazing EV motor vendor. I can help you source EV parts and batteries if needed. You need to use Solid State Batteries. Half the weight and size and double the performance of standard basic lithium cells. Love your skills! Keep it up! Shave more weight and ditch the steel framing for carbon fiber framing or aluminum. Or a mix of carbon fiber and titanium if you are really looking for top notch results. And may want to ditch the handlebars for a steering wheel and pedals. Less arm fatigue for long distances. I’m an electrical and mechanical engineer as well as an inventor of all things high performance. JiggaWatt Performance Industries-JPI. JPIVinnyJr@gmail.com
Wow thanks for the information, I just used what I had lying around which wasn’t up to it . In the next video I use 30amp wire with heaps of strands as you say but just used a heavier switch. As for the titanium frame haha that stuff is crazy expensive! Also getting an electric motor to match the 80hp the gas motor would also be expensive. I actually have another project coming up that no one has seen which is using a qs138 motor , I need a 96v battery and maybe a company that would sponsor something I am working with an engineer and nearly have the cad model done if you know of any companies that would be interested in
Omg wonderful piece of work.. I love it. The wiring, on the other hand. Terrible I was an aviation electrician mate in the navy. I could make it look sweet.. I f I can help. Let me know, pal.
YOU NEED THICKER GAGE WIRE. Thin wire can’t handle the watts. You need see how much power is coming from the wire. Also but a fuse on the wire to prevent that
Have you spoke with grind hard, seems like you are way ahead of em. But I would love to see this bike in real life. They seem like guys building a monster, I had this same idea as the only solution, but it will take a lot to pull it off.
To me the steering looks off. Doesn't look like its reactive enough to keep you upright. I'm wondering if you might need to find a way to reduce the rake angle. Or install a power steering system!
Put a POT or a current limiter in series of the circuit for the gyro. You might have to figure out how much current you need for optimal gyro rpm to figure out the current. Or take a potentiometer (POT) and turn till RPM is found and measure the current.
James brunton is the expert to teach you about gyros. Odrive is a must. Arduino is easy as you steal others projects. James brunton gives away his code wiring and 3D models.
Yes Bruce! I do see that James gives away his code and models , I will have to look at it , I really struggle with the electrical stuff as you know haha
Yeah a link arm would work better It was just easier to do the sprocket as it was already there . I have an adjuster to take the slop out , but people seem to really hate the chain steering haha
I am a certified automotive mechatronic and dump some info for you here: I'd suggest using a dedicated relay/fuse board and placing it close to the engine to keep cable lengths short for high current devices. Never run the whole power through your switches, use them to provide the current to power the relays. Run everything that needs a lot of power through an appropriately sized relay. Those Gyros will use a lot of amperage, especially when starting up with such a massive flywheel attached. They can use up to 10 times the current when starting. Consider using a resistor to limit current and prolong the life of the motor due to less heat. Try to dedicate a fuse for everything, NEVER run something without a fuse! Electrical Fire Hazard. Make sure the current capacity of your Alternator is rated to supply enough amperage at its designated voltage. Install a voltage meter at your dashboard, too. If you need anything, just send me a message, I'll be happy to help.
It's a stator not an alternator well they are kinda the same. Yeah your right about relays and fuses. Lots of relays they allow for smaller switches and smaller wire. You can use multiple relays small to bigger and so on.
Someone in the comments probably said this, but that thing is a fusible link. Basically a high current slow fuse. I have them in my bus in the starter motor circuit. It can handle high current longer than a normal fuse, but still blows if there is too much current for too long. If you bridge it with wire, you risk a burn happening some other place. I imagine that little electric motor seriously sucks some current. Keep up the good work. Have fun. Stay safe. (and go to the scrappy and get some much thicker wire and a bag of cable ties from the $2 shop).
I'm liking this a lot. It looks great, when that gyro powers up it sounds suitably 'scifi' and it actually reminds me of those robot bikes from 'Terminator Salvation'
"heavily discounted and inventory changes weekly" is my favourite parts of collecting scrap metal
well said eh
Please don’t make it a three wheeler, you’re getting so close to making it work I’m so pumped up about it! Great work man!
This is Something The Boys from Grind Hard Plumbing Could use :)
Yes I think they could do this way better with more time and budget they could get it working really well👍
Yeah, I mentioned it to them at Kig of The Hammers. Hopefully, they will try it. They have electric motors already.
@@FarmerFpv o cool! I bet their bike looks awesome in real life , did you get to talk to those guys ? I really like their builds
true lol
First thing I thought of as well… 😅👍🏻
People like you are what make TH-cam so great. Just out there giving it a go! 👍🇦🇺
That's an Australian flag.
This is hands down the best backyard engineering ive seen, great can do and problem solving attitude. U r the batkiwi...
I really enjoy your vids. Great progress. Don't knock yourself, your depth of knowledge and kiwi ingenuity is impressive and a joy to watch. Showing us your failures and frustrations takes courage too, so keep going. Thanks for your content.
Bro's a bloody legend!
Thanks , I am always striving to learn more . Glad you enjoy watching
One thing I know for sure is that once you go riding down the road you'll have a lot of heads turning and people will be taking pictures of you 💯 your the Man 💯
I LOVE the way it sounds when it spins up.
Great video for a Sunday👍👍🇳🇿
Putting the gyro inside that huge wheel was brilliant as it both made it safer and used otherwise wasted space!
What a beautiful Quiet Saturday Morning it is today Grabs the CHOP SAW😂😂😂
Have to admit once in a while the youtube algorythm is suggesting some freaking cool video, nice job sir
This build is getting pretty crazy! The paint changes the whole thing it looks great
Bravo! Well, done my friend. I have always been fascinated by gyroscopes and seeing one being used in application (as opposed to demonstration purposes ) is really cool. 😎
The bike is looking more Cyberpunk with each episode. Magic Blue Smoke electrical gremlins are common on projects like this. It takes time and patience to sort them all out, I have confidence you will prevail.
the cool thing about the dynamic gyro would be steering input, to be able to react to what you want the bike to do.
hell yeah that's sick. subbed when u referenced that monorail video last episode - gyro is so goddamn baller. hope u use that crazy monorail geared gyro design!
can't tell you how unreasonably pumped i was when this uploaded
u guys kick ass over there love from the states
Looks better than the movie bike. Guaranteed
I really appreciate that you are test driving every time, no teasers that mislead. Love the Build.
Lol love your tattoo an understatment. Thankyou for a great update a real inspiration truly!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Looks like the Carver One. But with 2 wheels instead of 3. Nice!
Use a relay to control the gyro motor (low amps through the controls and big amps only to the motor). Keep your motorcycle wiring separate from the accessories, specially the high draw items (gyro and stabilizers). Those little switches can't handle much more than a few amps.
Yup, he should have a look at how the starters wired and copy it.
Shopping at my favorite store lol... like This vegan? No Freegan, freshly dumpster dived for ingredients!
Ole Gear Head BABY!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Got to say I’m surprised how much the giro seems to do but it looks like you are heading in the right direction. Saying that, the 3 wheeler option isn’t a bad one. If you could set up leaning suspension, it’d be a blast to drive and look pretty cool.
Just keeps getting better and better dude. Brilliant stuff
Bro made the OG light cycle from TRON, I love it😊
Thicker low gauge wiring doesn't overheat. All cable comnectors, relays, switches and fuses related to the wires that are overheating needs to be heavy duty rated for higher amps. Try adding more thiker ground wires to both battery to frame chasis, and battery to engine.
That bike behaves really well. Nice steering chain. 😅 But seriously I like it. You're close.
try using a relay to engage your gyro. that's what they're intended to do is allow a low voltage switch energize a high output circuit. fried many things until i learned what a relay was for.. awesome build bro
The switch melted together because of the amount of amperage the electric motor pulls. Spend a little time googleing relays.
The only switch I had was an old dirt bike kill switch. The wiring was melting as well need some thicker stuff
@@DktheWelderwhat you really need is a current control method. The motor wants to pull too many amps as it's turning so slowly at the beginning it's effectively stalled. Something like a CV CC power supply or regulator would allow for gentler starting without melting the motor, wires, switches or fuses.
Maybe look into getting a flipsky FSESC6.7 they're good little units, with a skateboard motor. They have shitloads of options and are very powerful. It's more complicated than what you have now but .. there's advantages
this motor will be dead in no time anyway, he needs some sort of pwm controller or at least some crude softstart
@@jotham123 thats for 3 phase bldc motors, he have brushed dc motor, look for pwm dc motor controllers, they are much simpler things, alternately he could use two stage start by using some big resistor in series with the motor to limit the stall current for startup and when motor spins up to some speed, short the resistor with the second switch
@@ekstrapolatoraproksymujacy412 yes for flipsky vesc a new motor would be required, but would allow for huge RPM and power increase. Those are good alternatives as you suggest.
The rim mount is brilliant! To get the gyro wheels to angle hopefully they don't need to be hogged out too much for self aligning bearings. Maybe you could drive the second wheel off the back of the first with a spherical gear(hail 3D printing)? Like if the second motor doesn't want to fit right or something.
Love the louvers!
Gotta love your 360 shots all the time too. Sweet camera with some cool software. I always thought they automatically focused on detected movement. TIL'd.
nice work there Mr.Wayne. I'm impressed
ha new itd help bro what a sketchy weapon of mischief luv it well done man
As a kiwi i can confirm that safety is something we take very seriously!
Holy smokes brother!! I wish I was as talented as you lol!! Very cool inventions!
How can I not sub after that Hadouken. Wicked build.
What makes this great is how you don't give up and you keep chipping at it. This is how thing's become possible when everyone else would just walk away. Great vid! Oh and don't get grounded by mum lol
Js ur still ahead of grind hard plumbing 😂 great job!❤
you could run a custom script on a raspberry pi to operate your gyro whenever to tilt past a certain degree and have it match your throttle as well. Control relay may also increase reliability of circuit as it would ensure proper voltage and wattage.
Amazing!!! when you shot the fireball to inflate the tire
That wiring job could catch on fire. Better make a ejection seat
those brushed dc motors like the one youre using are great but have a couple drawbacks.. One, they have no means to dissipate heat , theyre well sealed as most kids scooter designs see a lot of abuse . 2 .. they will draw a ton of amperage running 1-1 gearing on any object heavier than a feather, so 3-1 would reduce the amp draw and also solve the heat problem.. But it would also reduce the gyroscope effectiveness also. A heavier gyro at low rpm might be more feasible than a light one at 9000 rpm,, Id personally try to spin a 3 lb plate at 1000 rpm and see how that works.
Bloody brilliant
So awesome mate!
You should have a collaboration with Grind Hard Plumbing. Build something epic.
I would put electric motors on the front and rear wheel.. and convert the whole thing to electric, put batteries on bottom center to help hold it upright.
This is an awesome bike but the gyroscope is now the most interesting part. I really want to see you work through a solution there. I know that’s wayyyy easier said than done but it would be awesome!
I know people love the gyro but everything needs to work together, there is definitely a way to do it what I need is a big dollar sponsorship so I can buy some good components
Your boss must be a legend.
😂😂😂He got "I ❤️ SAFTEY" ON HIS ARM, BUT HE WELDING WITH NO SHIRT ON❗️🤧🤧🤧
The end was epic! It reminded me of when i was a kid!
Brought home my Suzuki RMX after it got full crank case split. Bottom end rebuild all new bearings. Team Suzuki racing triple ring piston and some slightly under sprung 2rings and the other very tight. 14:1 compression needed avgas/kerosene blend or BP100. It would bruise your foot kick starting it in anything other than motorbike boots. Roll starting 4th gear was the preferred option on this fire shoot assault weapon. Brand new knobby tyre pick a gear and smashed up the gears and roost the size of an electrical pole and left a solid stripe up the paddock.....but the echo of this thing cracking and clapping back off and hill side was something else. We lived on acreage.
But was roll reversal. It was mum saying "oh you want till your father sees the paddock when he gets home!"
How to fix a potentially angry father before he can get angry?
Kickstart the bike the moment he got out of the car 😁
Helmet in hand boots beside the bike and pop flames in his face let him whiff hipo 2 stroke and put 20mm of veg oil in the mix just so it had that Castor oil smell off early period 2 stroke race bikes 👌
"Holy f**king shit that things an animal!'
Take it for blat dad.
I went and even opened the gate to the same paddock. He fking stomped that thing picking mono as he hit 6th gear because he forgot to downshift and got all squirrelly towards the end and didn't think he was going to pull up in time but the new tyres worked so well 👌
Now if i left a stripe my father dug a trench just about?
he muttered through his helmet 'naughty boy!'
All i say back was "should seed this with a row of passion fruits or pumpkins with that trench you just dug?"
His response was 'hang on let me give it another whirl 😉'
I let my father absolutely butcher the paddock to shit so then it wasn't my fault.. Happy days
seeing those chickens, i am getting some confirmations on old speculations that welding makes you crazy perhaps its something in the fumes
Bro, I can't believe you only have 50k subs. Well I'll add one to that... To help you out with the overheating wires, If the motor is 150W its drawing 12.5 amps at 12 volts. To give you some padding for a stronger motor, lets say you want to use a 250 watt motor. That motor will pull around 20 amps of current. Knowing that and assuming the wire run from the battery to the motor is 4 feet or 1.2 meters, you will need a minimum wire gauge of 10 awg or 6 mm sq. This is the size wire needed that can handle that much current without overheating and melting itself. It will also allow the motor to run more optimally since voltage drop due to current limitations are removed.
All in all, the wire got hot because it couldn't carry enough current to the motor. When a wire heats up its impedance to electrical flow increases. When impedance increases, it further reduces the current flow, which further heats up the wire. It's a vicious cycle that ends with molten wire on a good day or a fire on a bad one.
Very good explanation! Yes I got some wire to handle 30 amps , I think that motor is so loaded up on startup that it is drawing more than the 150w , problem is now the gas motor is not working! I have fried something as one coil pack isn’t working
@@DktheWelder As for the motor, you should have one signal generator that leads to one ignitor, and that ignitor leads to two ignition coils. The one ignitor uses a wasted spark system so the white wire from the ignitor sparks cylinders 1 and 4 and the black and yellow wire from the ignitor to the coil sparks cylinders 2 and 3. Knowing this you can check which cylinders are not firing and test the coil. You can test the primary and secondary ignitor coils with a multimeter (primary has the leads from the ignitor / secondary goes to the spark plugs). Primary coil should measure a resistance of 3 to 5 ohm and the secondary should measure 30 to 50k ohm. If the ignitor coils are in spec you should test the resistance of the signal generator that is before the ignitor. Connecting your leads to the green wire and black wire you should measure 130 - 200 ohms. If you measure between the blue wire and yellow wire you should also get 130 - 200 ohm. From what I can see the blue and yellow feed power to the coil for cylinder 1 and 4 and black and green feed 2 and 3. If all of those resistance measurements check good then you will likely need a new ignitor unit, although it is also testable. PS there each coil has two wires on top, one from the ignitor and one from the ignition switch. If you cant measure 12 volts from the orange/white cable on each coil to the negative battery terminal the wire for ignition is also damaged, but since two cylinders work I doubt that's the case.
Sorry for the long comment.
Still pretty amazing to me
Geet researcher guy here. I built a scooter some years ago with a pantone reactor on it got my bike to run on vapors of vegetable oil...
I gotta say this channel is super brilliant DIY engineering!
Look up ampricity ratings for your wire. You under sized the wire so it basically turned them into resistance heaters as you were drawing too much current for the wire size.
the maths on that board at 0:38 seem a little off to me :D
Instead of using a chain in handle bar steering, you may use parallel rods to avoid loose connection.
Wonder if you could drive the gyro directly off the engine crankshaft via a chain or a belt. Come out through engine's side cover, then outside of the main drive chain.
As a side note, that large center-less sprocket looks neat! Also surprising that this gyro is working at all since it's not an active stabilizer.
Imagine this launching out of the front of the batmobile, that would be fucking hilarious
Contactor relay for gyro motor. Small current switches larger current.
You NEED to put Paitball or Airsoft guns on this thing. It would be just perfect
You can throw away the electrical motor and just throw in a planetary gear set with a free spin clutch... Bring that giant sprocket in by welding arms to it a smaller sprocket that can run the planetary gear. Hook that up to a moped clutch so when you stop the weight keeps moving, the ratio can be set up to pretty insane numbers so setting the springs on the clutch to disengage at whatever rpm you think is good is kind of important.
Overheating and melting wires is super sketchy. It might be time to set up fuses outside of the cabin and bump up wire gauges in case you get a melt and arcing
The amperage on the gyro needs a thicker gauge. You should be able to get away with using 2awg. Run an in-line fuse also. Great build.
The Brennan monorail was a marvel... I wish they still had that today like in a roller coaster form where you got to rely on the gyroscope😂
For the electric motors a vfd or esc you could make it so they spin up slowly instead of instant 100% power. That puts a lot of stress om the system.
Also, are you still going to do the opposing flywheels?
I wonder how mirroring the fly wheel you have now on the other side of the hub and have the two spinning opposite direction would work.
Your gyro system looks peretty much exactly the same as the one in the gyro monorail from 1800s that never went commercial did you learn from that one?
0:36 Well you at least still have the guard on the grinder! If it explodes you should be much safer than those impaled with shrapnel.
Your eyes however...
If a motor looks like this I will buy and drive it.
Good projects. Later years 1980 Akira model projects motorcycles frame .
If you're wires are running hot and melting, get thicker guage wire, should do the trick
You might need an Astroflight motor to reach the desired RPM on your gyro
I could prefect this design or at the very least greatly improve it. Contact me if you want the specs and or a mock-up of a real working gyro that would actually be cheap to manufacture (at home) and work with what you currently have.. It could be a simple mechanical gyro that would work with the design and specifications of your bike. Please contact me!
Any electrical features need to be controlled using a relay. Positive wires stay connected and trigger the device on and off by switching the ground lead to the relay. Just be sure to use a high amp relay and thick STRANDED wire! Like the stranded wire that is used in high powered car stereos or even welding cable wire. Thin strands of wire totaling a thick collective overall gauge wire. It will eliminate the wire and device melting issues. And if you need sudden surges of power all at once then use capacitors. Again…high end car stereo stuff works fine. Don’t use thick stranded commercial electrical wire for 12vdc applications. You need to think of it as surface area is your friend. The more surface area you can pass the high amps thru the better and cooler wire temps you’ll have. And if you’re really looking for efficiency then ditch the copper stuff and use silver or graphene based wire. It’s about 15-20% more efficient than copper. Meaning you can get away with using thinner gauge wire. It’s more expensive but it’ll save the equipment and overall wasted time fixing meltdowns. If you really want to get that bike moving fast and efficient then ditch the gasoline engine and go full EV! It’ll be MUCH FASTER! And the power is INSTANTANEOUS! Look into Beyond Motors. It’s an amazing EV motor vendor. I can help you source EV parts and batteries if needed. You need to use Solid State Batteries. Half the weight and size and double the performance of standard basic lithium cells. Love your skills! Keep it up! Shave more weight and ditch the steel framing for carbon fiber framing or aluminum. Or a mix of carbon fiber and titanium if you are really looking for top notch results. And may want to ditch the handlebars for a steering wheel and pedals. Less arm fatigue for long distances. I’m an electrical and mechanical engineer as well as an inventor of all things high performance.
JiggaWatt Performance Industries-JPI.
JPIVinnyJr@gmail.com
Wow thanks for the information, I just used what I had lying around which wasn’t up to it . In the next video I use 30amp wire with heaps of strands as you say but just used a heavier switch. As for the titanium frame haha that stuff is crazy expensive! Also getting an electric motor to match the 80hp the gas motor would also be expensive. I actually have another project coming up that no one has seen which is using a qs138 motor , I need a 96v battery and maybe a company that would sponsor something I am working with an engineer and nearly have the cad model done if you know of any companies that would be interested in
Omg wonderful piece of work.. I love it.
The wiring, on the other hand. Terrible
I was an aviation electrician mate in the navy. I could make it look sweet.. I f I can help. Let me know, pal.
YOU NEED THICKER GAGE WIRE. Thin wire can’t handle the watts. You need see how much power is coming from the wire. Also but a fuse on the wire to prevent that
Give them a taste of kiwi!
Bro you in the yhe/ bay area .🤘
I want this, is amazing!
nice toy you have built yourself
Have you spoke with grind hard, seems like you are way ahead of em. But I would love to see this bike in real life. They seem like guys building a monster, I had this same idea as the only solution, but it will take a lot to pull it off.
Looks like a gyro is a must, friggen' Alfred probably bodgyed one up for the🦇. Thanks for the video, great work very interesting.
I believe in you!!!
If you're anywhere close hook up with Marty T, he's pretty decent with electrics.
Awesome man
This should be electric ⚡💡 plenty of room for a massive powerplant 🎉
Check my latest video I do exactly that!
To me the steering looks off. Doesn't look like its reactive enough to keep you upright. I'm wondering if you might need to find a way to reduce the rake angle. Or install a power steering system!
Yes the steering is off , and it handles bad at low speeds hopefully I will work it out
Put a POT or a current limiter in series of the circuit for the gyro. You might have to figure out how much current you need for optimal gyro rpm to figure out the current. Or take a potentiometer (POT) and turn till RPM is found and measure the current.
Reminds me of the old Extreme-G racing bikes on the n64
Extra like for the Hadoken method
You need to change the front tire swap it with slimmer tire ...
James brunton is the expert to teach you about gyros.
Odrive is a must.
Arduino is easy as you steal others projects.
James brunton gives away his code wiring and 3D models.
Yes Bruce! I do see that James gives away his code and models , I will have to look at it , I really struggle with the electrical stuff as you know haha
*Bruton
@@DktheWelder feel free to ask me anything anytime
If you are doing 1 to 1, wouldn't some solid bars linking the steering be more rigid and with less slop than a chain?
Yeah a link arm would work better It was just easier to do the sprocket as it was already there . I have an adjuster to take the slop out , but people seem to really hate the chain steering haha
I am a certified automotive mechatronic and dump some info for you here:
I'd suggest using a dedicated relay/fuse board and placing it close to the engine to keep cable lengths short for high current devices.
Never run the whole power through your switches, use them to provide the current to power the relays.
Run everything that needs a lot of power through an appropriately sized relay.
Those Gyros will use a lot of amperage, especially when starting up with such a massive flywheel attached. They can use up to 10 times the current when starting. Consider using a resistor to limit current and prolong the life of the motor due to less heat.
Try to dedicate a fuse for everything, NEVER run something without a fuse! Electrical Fire Hazard.
Make sure the current capacity of your Alternator is rated to supply enough amperage at its designated voltage. Install a voltage meter at your dashboard, too.
If you need anything, just send me a message, I'll be happy to help.
It's a stator not an alternator well they are kinda the same. Yeah your right about relays and fuses. Lots of relays they allow for smaller switches and smaller wire. You can use multiple relays small to bigger and so on.
wear eye protection near lathe
Someone in the comments probably said this, but that thing is a fusible link. Basically a high current slow fuse. I have them in my bus in the starter motor circuit. It can handle high current longer than a normal fuse, but still blows if there is too much current for too long. If you bridge it with wire, you risk a burn happening some other place. I imagine that little electric motor seriously sucks some current. Keep up the good work. Have fun. Stay safe. (and go to the scrappy and get some much thicker wire and a bag of cable ties from the $2 shop).
Just copying the wiring for the starter would be my approach to the gyro issue.
I'm liking this a lot. It looks great, when that gyro powers up it sounds suitably 'scifi' and it actually reminds me of those robot bikes from 'Terminator Salvation'
The gyroscope need to have an axial movement too. To R and L
Crazyyyyyy🔥💯💯
Use bigger wires for the gyro.