Easy Adjustment, Good Braking Performance - TRP Spyre-C Disc Brakes Review.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ย. 2017
- These mechanical disc brakes came once more to my studio and I must tell you - I love them!
Where to buy TRP Spyre brakes:
goo.gl/arQw1j
tidd.ly/672a5af2
Join my Patrons: / sickbiker
I test - you buy on Amazon: amzn.to/2fBut9s - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Just been trying to adjust my new brake install and was struggling - rubbing. Your TRP vid told me everything to do it succesfully. Thankyou very much. clear, simple and straightforward. Brilliant.
I bought a pair of trp spyre brake for my merida speeder, when i upgrade that bike to road bike, with st-6600, because i saw this brake in your videos. I am very satisfied with this brakes. Thank you
never had disc brakes before, i'm so glad i went with these. they were SUPER-simple to set up. almost as easy as rim calipers, and they work with Campagnolo brake levers as well!!!
Thanks for sharing about the adjustment with the 3 mm on the side, so nice and simple, can't wait to do this on my spyres.
Really looking forward to more of these "Budget" Reviews! Thanks!
These aren’t budget they’re running 80-90$ each
Thanks. Ultra simple explanation. All I needed.
Thanks for the calibration tip!
Great review. Really looking forward to the new type reviews you are hoping to do. This is an area that really frustrates me actually, because I can only afford the so called budget bikes. It should be remembered, that although they are budget bikes, it's still a lot of money to spend on something, and many people spend a hell of a long time saving up to buy their " budget" bike.
Nice one Danni.
I've been riding with these for 3 years now and cannot say I like them that much. They are easy to adjust for sure but you have to really set them up right to get good braking power. I found this video because I cant get rid of the squeal in the front break and am a bit surprised by the positivity for them.
I have these on my gravel bike and I found them insanely easy to adjust just the way I like them. If you set the pads right they won't wear unevenly. Dual pivot is the way to go, especially for touring situations.
Great breaks with easy maintenance. Also looking forward to more budget reviews.
Brakes*
Wow, My best friend, Thank you for your hard work in making the video. I enjoyed the good video. Have a happy day.
I just set these up on my Surly, so easy to get them just right!
Thanks my Friend, excellent video and support
Nice video. These brakes are super easy to maintain and the power is really good. Btw looks like there's a crack on your bikes driveside dropout where the weld is. I could be wrong.
I had these for a while on my cx bike, didnt perform very well for me.. I then got the TRP HY/RD.. Amazing.. no more adjusting - they are like half cable/hydraulic in my opinion hy/rd is they way to go. Very good video SickBiker.
$125 for each caliper. Expensive but they look beautiful. How do they compare to a hydraulic system like Sram Rival flat or similar price.
@@junboo8730 I'm not sure, not used the Sram. Can say that the full hydraulic system is amazing (stopping power & Feel). I just prefer brakes with less hassle not having to adjust the pads in and out all the time, this is why opted for the HY/Rd which as you prob. know are cable actuated. I have 4 brake levers on my CX bike and wanted to use all four levers - this is why I could not go full hydraulic.
Wow! These look like nice brakes! Thanks!! I have a broken carbon fiber frame with very nice components that had caliper brakes but want to get a frame that supports disk brakes. What wheel set would you recommend that doesn't cost much but that is nice for riding in the gravel and dirt. Thanks!!
Hi there Danny! Nice video! I almost bought a Vitus Zenium bike with those brakes but in the end decided to go for traditional calipers because getting replacement braking pads for disc brakes in Cuba is nearly impossible.
Nice,never see a mechanical brake like those, interestring
Great channel, keep it up! I have TRP Spyre on Specialized Roubaix Elite 2017 (front rotor 160mm, back 140mm) From beginning they had little stopping power. I adjusted them and this and some running in got them better. Still, sram rival hydraulics on my cheaper cyclocros are twice as powerful with the same rotor size. At the moment TRPs can barely lock rear wheel. I already bought replacement hydraulic (RS685 & RS805) as I don't feel safe cycling in London with mediocre brakes.
That's interesting, I can lock up the rear wheel with my Spyres on any surface even at higher speeds, and i'm running 37mm tyres. Sometimes I use just one finger to brake while holding the hoods. So in my opinion something was not right with your setup.
Boni Hollóssy plz let me know do your secrets to get such braking power out for them
Boni I went through TRPs set up in detail and couldn't see anything wrong. Anyway, just the new hydraulic front is easily twice as powerful as front and back TRPs working together, so huge difference. Really happy with the new setup. There are disadvantages though. Hydraulics are more expensive, take time to bleed properly and require some additional tools. Not to mention internal routed cables are pain to install, but that's true for mechanical as well. Anyway happy TRPs work for you.
Using TRP Spyke on a MTB. Pad adjustments are on both the inside & outside. Dual pad actuation in a mechanical caliper. No rotor bending in order to contact both pads. Good stopping power & simple to maintain. Thanks, Danny
Any difference to lever action being lighter or harder to pull up?
Several pad adjustment on inside is crap!! You have to uninstall the whole wheel otherwise you´re not able to adjust ´cause the cassette stands in the they way of the tool! So hate it!! -.-
Hi greetings from London,great video and great channel.
When are you going to give us the second video on the tannis solid tyres.
Keep it up.
Clive.
Great video but I hate these brakes. I've been running them for 2 years, tried different pads, discs and cables but the braking force is poor even worse than a good rim brake.
@King Of Crunk yes it might be. What which are the right brakes for Shimano road levers? On mine power and feel suck. I just keep on pulling and pulling and the power never really comes. I would argue that you should have at least either good power or a good bite point. I have none of the two. Started off with bb7s, then changed to spyre, then different pads, different cable housings. To top it off, the way the rear caliper is mounted what flows into the cable housing and in winter the whole cable is frozen stuck in the housing. That is not per se a problem of the mechanical brakes but of the mounting orientation and you definitely don't have it with hydraulic brakes (rim or disk). So all in all they pretty much suck for me.
I just love mechanical disc brakes, i have it on my fatbike, the BB7's reliable, easy to adjust and work with, i tried hydraulic but wasn't pleased and all the hassle that comes with them, and as for braking power, i hear people say mechanical brakes aren't very strong, well let me tell you i'm at around 102kg when the brake lever is pushed far in it's enough to throw me over the handlebars with easy, use a good brake cable and sleeves and you will get allot from that alone.
yeah, bb7s seem to be really powerful with metal pads. i run them on 160mm rotors and they seem more powerful than xts on 180mm rotors.
I had bb7s and it sucked with road levers. Really bad.
@@maxgrass8134 Never tried with road levers, i just use the Avid standard brake levers, they work.
Hello.. love your videos! I recently changed the rear brake pads on my trp but I think the pads are hitting the fins on my ultegra disc rotors especially when i brake hard. How can I make the proper adjustment? Can the height be adjusted?
Nice brakes
Hi Daniel When are you going to test Box components?
Very helpful. thanks
In order to ensure that the pads press flat on the disc this is what I do - 1. leave the caliper mounting bolts a little loose, 2. adjust both pad sides in equally so that they are squeezing the disc. 3. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts, then 4. adjust the pads equally away from the disc.
Jay Tee just your setup tip? worked perfectly and is really is how it should be done! Thanks 👍
Thank you for review.I'm thinking of buying a used bike that has these brakes on it, and just want to know a little bit more about them.
Same
There are several adjustment videos for these brakes, but NO ONE mentions that there are 3mm pad adjustment screws on BOTH sides of these calipers. I think that's what causes some of the performance problems with these brakes.
I love these brakes! You get more pad clearance with the pads getting pulled from both sides instead of 1.
This is not true. You get the same clearance as with one sided calipers.
I have a question. Since I am newbie with bicycles, instead of using the piston 3mm screws to make closer pads to rotor(i didn't know how to use them), I pulled more cable out of lever and made more tension. Now There is a 5mm more cable that passed the breaking lever. With that I made pads to be closer to rotor. Is this wrong? Should I readjust it? Thanks
How would You compare this with BB7 (I found out that campy veloce levers work grate without MTB to ROAD caliper conversion, so it is tipical MTB bb7 caliper now)?
Have You tried TRP HY/RD (ther is much hype about them: someone love them, someone hate, but I have not hear any objective thought rather than some paid reviews)?
TRP Spyre, Zoom db 680, and ZENO Speed Clip Dual Piston mechanical disc bicycle brakes
did you leave the outer cable running through the frame to the rear brake or did you cut it ?
On most bikes with internal routing, cable housing runs through the frame.
It's recomended to use those 3mm screws to adjust brake pads wear. When I adjust from the barrel, I think it changes the leverage of arm.. the arm where the wire is attacked will be on diferent position and.. although it does not look like much difference by eye. I think, it does change how the brakes feel.. I could feel it.
Hardi Erstu yeh correct
Would a shimano dura ace ice tech rotor fit in these calipers?
*_Do You put preload on the lever arm when setting it up?_*
Hi, first time using this type, how can I replace the pads pls? Cheers
I have a question if you can help me. If I change my caliper to this type, do I have to change the levers and the rotor? I have a gravel bike with simano claris levers and 160mm rotor.
No need to change disc rotors or brake levers.
What is the difference between Spyre and Spyre C? I have the Spyre brakes and I'm not terribly impressed with them. With my hands on the hoods, I really need to grab the brake levers low to get full leverage and power from my brakes.
The caliper arm of the Spyr C is carbon rather than aluminium, so lighter.
At 3:27 I can see the rotor bending a bit. Is that normal? Is it possible to set it up in a way that the rotor will not bend, even 1mm?
Yes you can set it so both pads have the same gap, touch simultaneously on use, and act equally.
I have these brakes, they are excellent.
You can set each pad's rotor gap independantly using the 3mm alan key as SickBiker shows. But note, he only shows the outer adjuster... there are two, one on each side for each pad.
So are shimano brakes hard to adjust or something? Just curious as my specialized came with these.
Shimano tends to be pretty good, other no name ones or cheap tektros can be a pain to setup.
Nice video, can I also use them on my Mountainbike with brake levers?
Any levers that pulls a cable will work.
I want to upgrade cable disc brake from Avid BB5 160mm for a flat bar hybrid bike with 700c/35c wheel/tyre. I need a better performing front brake - what are the options? better cable, better pads, better caliper. Do not want hassle of hydro as bike will need to be reliable when touring.
Trp is perfect, use non compression housing and lube up the cable well, and it will have almost the exact same modulation as hydro and its reliable as hell, The trp is a dual pivot which allows that.
My model may be different. It was mounted with 4mm screws Squeeze method did not work, as brake aligned only one side. so I visually aligned rotor to center.. I think there is a very slight warp on my rotor, so squeeze make work on new system..
same problem
I have a question: which is the minimum thickness of the cable? Is Jagwire 1.5mm for
1.2 mm gear cable can be used but it is about 70% as strong/effective as normal 1.5 mm brake cable. Jagwire compression less cable is probably the best option.
The 3mm screw is for balancing the clearance on each pad to match, so each pad touches the disc at the same time. Not really for wear adjusting them. Once done with a new set of pads that's it. I have these brakes on my bike and they're pretty damn good but not as good as the Shimano hydraulics on my 29er.
Thats not what trp advices
There's also a balance adjuster on the inside that is not shown in this video. It also needs to be adjusted. These should be used not the barel.
Christoph Trommler bingo
Which Cycle I should buy montra madrock or Hercules Rodeo A475 please reply😕😕😔👍👍👌👌
what`s your budget? i would go for the madrock, but it really isn`t a very good bike
Hello what about shimano cx77 i can get them now for €25 instead of €75 they are mechanical too
the same exact mechanical brake on my NORCO Threshold. Lately, my rear brake is not as good as the front one. Back brake don't actually work. I checked the brake pads and rear pads are thicker than the front but the front brake engages and the rear does not. I tightened the caliper allen screw (marked 3mm PAD IN) and start to work. However, it makes a squealing sound and the harder I brake, the louder it squeals. Can someone pls help me how to remedy this issue? Thanks.
It very much sounds to me as if you had some brake pads contaminated with oil.... unfortunately the only way to get the full braking power back and ridd of the squealing will be the installation of some new brake pads....
shave the brake pads with sand paper thats what i done and its working perfect with no squeaking and also make sure your brake rotor is perfectly clean
it's either nag glaze yung brake pad mo (shiny yung surface), may oil (sakahawak-hawak ng rotor o nalagyan ng oil), o hindi na bed-in properly.
lihain mo yung rotor at brake pad ng sandpaper. wag masyadong magaspang, yung pinong klase. pagkatapos, hugasan mo gamit isopropyl alcohol.
pag lagay mo pabalik sa bike mo, i bed-in mo yung brakes. padyak ka ng mabilisan at pigain mo yung brake mo (pero wag masyadong malakas na ta-tumbling ka) hanggat sa pumreno ka. ulitin mo 5-10 times.
check mo ulit yung braking. pag hindi nawala yung issue, palit kana ng brake pad. (yung buong pad mo may oil na kasi)
lihain mo ulit yung rotor at hugasan ng alcohol.
tapos, bed-in mo ulit. pag hindi parin gagana, yung rotor na yung papalitan. (malala na talaga kasi yung surface ng rotor.)
bed-in ulit. sigurado na yang gagana. (sa maliit na chance na hindi pa gagana, dalhin mo sa bike shop at dasalan mo yung mga kaluluwa nila sa pag ayos ng bike mo.
I have trip spyre-c with trek 520 model 2019
Which one is better. Keep v brake ultegra 8010 or swap to trp mechanical db?
Trp spyre mechanical. They are really good and easy to use. I have them on my Kona Sutra
Very nice video. Which model of spoke protector disc is this?
i don`t know, but most of them should be compatible with your bike. the other question is why you would want one... with proper adjustment you will never catch a chain in your wheel
Reiner mit ei, bidde! It needs just a small branch to make thiis if incorrect. 2nd! standard spoke protectors don't work with 28-spoke wheels.
you have a point there... i don`t know very much about spoke protectors since all i do with them is take them off my wheel and throw them away XD
but seriously, in 11 years of cycling (i`m 18) i never had a chain stuck in my wheel. i had broken chains, ripped of mechs and bent rims.
because i think that the braking torque of 2 pads with one finger equals to the braking torque of one pad with 2 fingers
Are the spyre-C's the same as the regular Spyre's?
C are the model that is bought and fitted by the bike manufacturer, it’s the same thing.
hi i have a problem here the brake lever on the back is making squealing sound, and is not went im riding when i use the brake lever in the front the back brake is making the sound
Your disk brake and/or your braking pads have dirt / oil on them. Try braking down a hill for a long time. This will heat the disc up and the dirt burns off. No joke. You will burn your hand if you touch it.
If you don't have a long hill you can just clean it with dish soup, water and a towel. Clean it until no black stuff is on them.
And when they are clean, watch where you spray your WD40 or chain oil. Always spray away from the discs or you have "squealing sound" again.
@@k1dicarus thank man i'll give them a try :-o
Zoom also make a version.
These type of mechanical brakes are my favorite.
Even force on either side of the disc with these type of brakes they also have no piston seal problems and no hydraulic leaks to worry about...
The lack of standards in cycling is a small worry but cycling is growing at a fast pace..
What cables are you using? Mine is way too spongy.
Looks like Jagwire - Mine are soft too - will be upgrading to Jag or equiv.
I removed the little plastic thing that feeds the cable through on the backside of the barrel adjuster that was causing too much friction.
are you using compressionless ? that is what is recommended for mechanical disc brakes.
3:09 do not use the barrel adjuster to adjust the pads, this will give you less modulation/control over the braking.
just use the pad adjustment instead.
4:20 will do the exact same job- no it will not, adjustign thee wire tension too much reduces modulation so you will have less control overe the braking.
Btw, the first thing I do is add Loctite 243 to threads on the piston, then adjust the adjsut the pads until the Caliper is sentered, then I tighten the caliper bolts.
I have floatign rotors, I have to do this for the rings to not rub, my frame does nto allow for the brake pads to be sentered, outward pad has to be further in.
Is pad adjustment the second one he showed us around 4:17?
Can i put semi-metalik pads for that brakes?
of course you can, the red pads are semi metallic, and in my experience they bite as well as Shimano J04C metallic pads, but they wear slower.
my question is: is it powerful enough to allow me brake with just one finger on the brake lever?
if you're strong enough 💪💪
seriously though, I have a single piston cable disc brake, and I can brake with one finger though it's not immediately (stops after 1 second). with two fingers, I can stop immediately.
with trp spyre, it must be stronger than my brakes, so it's very much likely that you can stop with one finger. (assuming you bed-in your brake pads/rotor properly)
Not really in the upper position but lower, yes
Hi all, went riding a 80km gravelish ride today, temperature was around 0°C after 2h00 or so I started to experience an issue with the "return" of the brake of the back wheel, later it became so bad that the brake caliper did not returned at all. A simple push back by hand on the caliper itself helped to "unlock" the wheel, could only use the front brake from there on. Once the bike washed the issue just disappeared. So it's obviously ice+dirt blocking the system. Just wondering if any of you had the same experience and if you know something to prevent this.
This said, Thank you for your vids Dany!
I have had these brakes almost 3 years now, but haven't experienced such thing. But that said, I only make about 3000 km in year, but also in cold weather at winter.. Around zero a lot.. until -7 C cold..
Since it was only rear brake, I would check the brake housing seal first.. If your bike has the brake mounted same way like on the bike in video. The cable opening is pointed upward, water could maybe penetrate .. maybe some oil to there help to keep water away.. maybe new seals. If you have mudguards also installed, then there will be probably be more water bouncing down from mudguard onto brakes too..
My front brake caliper's actuating arm started to squeak. I washed it and put some drops of oil, the squeaking disappeared , but still I could hear something sand like when pushing the brake. And the actuating arm don't fully retain to it's original position by it's own.. I think, I have to take it apart and clean and lubricate.. I found this post that shows how to take this kind brake apart ..
singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/psa-trp-spyre-rebuild-guide Probably I also have rust inside there. I rode on wet, salted roads too much..
Put some lubricant on the pistons. Something with teflon is best.
Hi all. Getting back to the original post on blocking Spyre calipers in cold (freezing) conditions: This week end was like 5°C below zero, the back caliper blocked at the first pull of the lever. Impossible to unlock it by hand as in the previous case. Loosening the adjustment barrel unlocked the wheel but the brake remained unusable for the ride. Went riding anyhow, being extra careful and rode for fitness only. Upon my return temperature had risen and the caliper unlocked (almost) by itself. I'm suspecting the issue is in the liners (cable housing). Can anyone share a similar experience before I go replace the cable system? FYI it are Jagwire's compressionless pro series.
I had the same issue, but on the highway at about 70 km/h and 15° celcius. I took my bike to the mechanic and there were 2 problems: the wire somehow got out of the liner (jagwire too) in the section that goes inside the frame. The 2nd: the wires were so rusty they were unusable. Had to replace them. Problem solved after that. Oh, I had to replace the wire too because it got damaged because of the friction inside the frame
chyba ceny poszybowaly, bo za pare tych zaciskow wychodzi prawie 1000zl. i jak wiekszosc omawiajacych te hamulce, zapomniales powiedziec o srubie regulujacej dystans prawego klocka :p
Wydaje mi się że raczej poprawnie będzie używać słowa wrench a nie key.
There is a tricky thing on this brakes the pads do not wear off even, the out side one wears easily faster, Any chance of a video tutorial showing how to make the switch , Ive seen this done and not only by mechanics, is fairt to say that will save a feww $$ and your disc wont suffer if you make the switch in the rigth time, thanks to any one that can help.
Is this and TEKTRO MD-C550 basically same parts? Different branding?
Trp is the high end division of tektro, so the parts should be the same. But the trp brake may be a lighter more refined version.
Is this road bike specific or can they be used on MTB
Road exclusively. You may either want to go for the MTB version so called Spike (trpcycling.com/product/spyke/).
You can use them with mtb, but you need to use standard pull levers for road caliper brakes. But that shouldn’t be a problem since the leavers are super cheap.
are'nt this brake makes squek sound after a while?
change it out for some shimano resin peds
It will work with xt lever?
Luis Villamayor différent pull ratio.the Spyre is for Road/Caliper cable pull, Spyke for Mountain/Linear cable (longer pull)
did you try them or do you only earn money with those?
He probably does now that he's on Patron, but you don't need his review on these brakes if you do your homework. These are arguably the best price/performance mechanical disc on the market for CX or Gravel bikes. I use these on my Merida CX.
I just switched to these and the rear one performs worse than a wet cantilever rim brake. Astonished at how bad it is.
You need linear pull (compressionless housing) brake cables!
@@SEPPERLLL0 I have those by TRP
@@frogslips I did not stick to the instruction initially and used "plain" coiled brake housing, very poor braking performance. Then I switched to the strongly recommended linear pull (compressionless housing) brake cables and the performance suddenly was great! on par with BB7 ...
@@SEPPERLLL0 that’s the same as I did, I thought my Jagwire were compressionless but the were the CEX, so I bought linear TRP compressionless and they are worse than the BB7 I took off. Trying to bed them in but little change.
@@frogslips Sorry to read this. Disc is clean? Pads are clean, not oily, dirty? I am very very happy with BB7´s on my other bike, easy to maintain, nice modulation, very good braking power (I did a "downgrade" from hydraulic, for me it was a "upgrade" :-) I should make clear, maybe, that I have a TRP Spyke, not a Spyre-C ...
Can you tell me what is good about it, other then good looking.
Single sided braking start at 2.5kg pull on the lever the TRP SPYRE start at 9Kg tested by luggage scale. Also does not go back to home position, not pulling the cable back. What is good about it?
Somebody back me up on this.
Even brake pad wear, easier to adjust - sounds like you haven't set your brakes up properly.
Better than the BB7?
Significantly. BB7 is Single pad/arm actuation, dual pad adjust. Spyre is dual arm/pad actuation dual pad adjust. I switched from BB7 because poor performance and silly set up. Honestly, BB7 are all marketing and “belief”from people talking likely not really using them. Spyre/Spyke are the only cable disc brakes I recommend to folks.
#dorkdisc
Nice looking bike but poor quality control or poor transport.Rear wheel has major issues right out of the box. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Rear axle is bent! Derailleur is misaligned.Since the rear wheel comes assembled I would have expected better.Assembly instructions poorly written, but that was not unexpected...just annoying.I just had the bike checked at a shop and was told that I should contact the seller about getting a whole rear wheel assembly with cartridge. (The bike shop could not do anything to help me).Not a good experience with this bike, so lesson learned.Added 3 stars for excellent customer serviceUpdate Sept 8 2020Just received a complete replacement wheel for free. Great service and an otherwise fine bike.
Really hate these brakes, they don't brake on wet descending .
they will do very well no matter if it's below zero or very hot wet and muddy or dry, if not the pads are contaminated, I have Trp Spyke which is the Mtb version of this brake, I ride in all conditions, you will have to decrease the pads if they have been glazed due to contamination you have to sand them down.
sound more like problem with brake pad.
Had to replace my TRP Spyre calipers after about six months useage - they became very 'notchy' and stiff to use; the bike was basically unrideable. Shimano low end calipers are far superior.
You can take take them apart and clean the bearings. They don't come greased from the factory.
To be frank all other mechanical disc brakes are useless. Pressing on only one side is terrible ide because you always bend rotor. No idea why other mechanical disc brakes still survive. That’s why I always love hydraulic ones because it is silent and rotor remains straight.
I am not sure you showed complete adjustments. I see your rotor bends when you brake. You left and right pistons are not equidistant from rotors