TRP Spyre C Pad Change And Setup
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
- TRP Spyre C Brake Pad Replacement And Caliper Adjustment Guide If you find the videos helpful and would like to make a small donation to help support the channel you can do so here www.paypal.com/paypalme/freet...
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Thanks for watching. - กีฬา
Nice One 👍I have successfully replaced the pads 💥🥳
I'm a useless mechanic but changed my spyre pads after watching this, really useful video, thanks! Only thing I found, not mentioned in video, is that for that 3mm hex adjuster bolt, there is another one on the inside and I had to let them both off to make it easy to get the new pads in place.
These brakes are so good I don't know how some people don't like them!
I've found a way of getting a better feeling at the brake lever and much better pull at the calliper. Before preloading the calliper arm (fully out position) you wind in the pads first, then back them off slightly so they're not touching the disc. When you preload the calliper arm it's in a further back position giving better leverage.
Thanks for advice to preload wire, just got the bike with them and not happy with how they feel with late bite.
This is a great instructional video for the non-mechanic. If you can't change pads after watching this ... go to a shop.
Thanks, GREAT!
Thank's a lot. I am a newby in mecanic. You explain very well. Thanm you!
Thanks! You helped me get my brakes changes in minutes.
Thanks man. Good video - clear and methodical instructions, no BS. Cheers.
Well done. Easy to follow instructions with no bullshit opinions. Made a big difference in my braking performance. Cheers
Very clear instructions. I like the fact that you spoke through the process in a slow, methodical way. Excellent video.
Very helpful and thorough video! Thanks!
I found this video very useful. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Worked prefect first attempt. Never done disk brakes before. The pads last about 3 months. I found them to be decent throughout.
Thanks, gonna attempt replacement of pads tomorrow
well done and very helpful!
Thanks! I replaced my pads with your help!
Thanks for the explanation!
Hi,very infomative video.Thank you!
I've never been happy with my brakes since I got the bike last year. But I think taking out the bit of play in the caliper arm must be the answer. 🤞Cheers.
Free To Cycle: Thank you!
Great video
Thanks a lot, mate! Very clear and instructive. Giving me the right amount of enthusiasm to do the same on my bike.
great video. Thanks!
Excelente video gracias 👏
Thanks my Friend, and for all explanation, God bless you always
Helpful, thankyou!
Many thanks
That was so well explained. Thank you so much for making this!
Life saver, thank you very much!
Thanks! Your super simple explanation was exactly what I needed.
Thank you! Excellent instruction and the help I needed.
Thanks for this! You made it very easy to follow.
Thanks for the great videos. Keep them coming.
This was a very helpful video, thank you!
Thanks
Great stuff...exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for posting this. 👍😀
Very helpful thank you. Going to save me plenty of time.
Thanks! Much better than the official TRP video.
Perfect video to explain everything, thank you.
Brill, many thanks for the very useful video!! My spyre brakes are now working better than when brand new.
Bombing down a pass in the Dolomites the other day I wasn't very happy with all the lever travel I was getting. Here's how I dealt with the problem: I loosened the cable at the caliper arm as well as the caliper frame bolts and screwed the right-hand pad adjustment in as as far as it it could go, basically because it's far more difficult to get at with a small multi-tool out on the trail. I then centred the caliper using the bolts to the frame so that the disc was just not touching the right-hand pad. I then screwed in the left-hand pad adjustment so the pad just cleared the disc. I then took up those 2-3 mm of "free stroke" shown at 7 mins in the video, which does nothing (thanks for the tip, Free to Cycle), so that the arm was held with a little cable tension. Because this is free stroke, this operation will not move the pads closer to the disc. The result was far less lever travel at the bars and a more immediate feel, which I like. Maybe a slight reduction in modulation, more on-off, but great power.
Nice! Thank you! :-)
Thanks for the video - exactly what I needed.
Good video. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thanks for perfect video! everything became clear to me!
Thank you. Very clear and methodical explanation.
Very helpful. Thank you so much. Best regards
Very helpful, thank you!
Thank you for this awesome video. I really appreciate it.
Well explained, thanks!
immensely helpful. thank you sir.
Great video, thank you very much
Hello, thanks for sharing that video! I am not sure about which pads to use for the Spyre-C. Which ones do you use?
Great tutorial thanks
Thanks nice and clear👍
good one, very thorough, great accent. he could be a bbc actor, lol!
😂
Thanks a lot especially the bit about taking up the free play (8.25)no one else has mentioned this before going to check mine upgraded mine from tektro but not impressed at mo hopefully because needs bedding in and free play adjustment as you showed. So fingers cross will be much better than tektro cheers
I have a set of these on my Gravel Bike. I can’t get enough stopping power out of them. I’m 212lbs and ride in a hilly area. I’m going to try some new pads and rotor.
I was wondering if lever shape effects the pull? Seems like the brakes worked better with Sram Force levers than Shimano 105.
Great video!
For The TRP need a lot more force to stop the bike, shimano old style 1 side pull needed 3.0kg pull on the lever, to start breaking. The TRP needs 9kg to start the same effect. This is my new C version this brake, I my have a bad parts?
So that is the reason for you too.
Also for your riding conditions I would put 180mm on the front.
Need new rotor and mounting, just remember the front 180 mount is the same as the rear 160mm mount.
The TRP need to re design the caliper spring load system.
Regards your experience,
I updated again ....TRP removed.... NOW with ZOOM XTECH Brake Calipers HB100 (Line Pulling Hydraulic).
For you.... should try this one.
My Experience: Braking and braking force on lever is OK.
I'm Happy with this one.
@@balwek2 Yup. It seems that TRP (Spyer-C) just can't be made to brake strongly. I have 140mm rotor at back and optimally adjusted brakes (new cables, pads, setup good, degreased rotor) and there is no fear of lock braking, they barely slow the speeds on downhills. At worst they don't do anything, and i have to brake only with front brake (not TRP i can guarantee you that).
Not fan of them, not at all. Started to do maintenance on one of them and found out that bearings had come out from their groove in pads which press brake pad towards rotor, giving inconcitency on how brakes function... One more reason why i don't like them.
I can't make them brake well even when pushing the lever by hand. If i do that with shimano or Tektro the bite is much better.
@@Second247 Change it ZOOM XTECH Brake Calipers HB100 (Line Pulling Hydraulic).
It clamps from both side of the disk, so it don't bent the disc during breaking. Wear evenly, need to adjust for initial set up only.
Breaking power is good, or excellent.
Spend the money for your safety.
let us know how did you go...
How do you find the trp cable calipers? I've had the hybrid cable hydro version by trp and they were quite good but not as much as my full hydro. I've heard good things about the trp cable only versions, weight adjustment etc.
Compared to Hydraulic disc brakes there a breeze to work with!!
@@FreeToCycle But how do they perform in rainy climate/humid environment? Compared to hydraulic disc brakes I mean.
@@user-hn9mt8ti3o I’ve found that the weather doesn’t really make a difference.
I've got 160 flat mount brackets on my bike with current brakes so should these calipers just swap straight in or will I need the spyre 160 flat mount bracket as the sizing may be different?
Thanks a lot! I want to install jagwire cable and housing on my Gravel bike. Which is the minimum cable thickness allowed? Can i buy same cable used on mechanical brake for road bike? Thickness of this cable is 1.5mm .
Thank you . Have a nice day
Cables are the same thickness as rim brake! Just make sure the cable is long enough to reach the rear disc caliper!
Hi. Will shimano dura ace ice tech rotars work with these calipers?
10x!
hi my spyre c is making clicking sounds when pressing brakes, you think i should replace the pads?
The problem i have with these brakes is the pad likes to back-out over time. The adjustment screw is loose, no jam nut or anything to keep if from rattling around.
That's really helpful. Thanks!
Why would I need to tighten the barrel adjuster over tightening the caliper bit? What's the difference in essence? Thanks
what rotors are these?
TRP Spyre