How To Improve Cheap, Mechanical, ONE Piston Disc Brakes For More Braking Power. Single Actuation.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ย. 2020
- Don't simply buy new brakes, if your mechanical, single actuation ones lack power. Let me show you, how to improve braking performance, by better adjusting the fixed pad...
The best mechanical brakes I've ever tested (dual piston!): amzn.to/35U8aSH
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In a simple nutshell: If you squeeze your brakes & you can see the rotor physically move side to side at ALL, your brakes are out of perfect adjustment. After watching this great tutorial, I was able to get my Tektro Mira brakes perfectly adjusted to where when I squeezed the brake all the way there was absolutely no rotor movement from side to side & no disc brake rotor rubbing on the brake pads. You helped me squeeze the maximum performance I can get out of my single-sided piston mechanical disc brakes on my gravel bike! 👍🔥🚴🏻♂️🔥
I admire you for speaking in English even though clearly its not your main language , so you can teach us english only understanding ppl. Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
@Phoenix Gael sounds scam
It makes it sound more expert
This wasn't the EXACT fix to my issue, but the basic problem was the same and you gave enough hints that I could get it sorted. Legend thank you very much 🙏
Finally a view you can actually see (most are so dark) and a great detailed explanation. Thank you!
You explained this much more clearly than the other dozen or so cable brake repair videos I watched. Thank you!
you literally saved my life. i changed the brake pad (the last one was fine) thinking that it was worn out, tighten my cables, adjusted my caliper and there is still no braking power. i did not know we could adjust the non-moving piston. i tried it and now my brake is fine. thanks a lot man.
Literally saved my knees hahahaha
Best bike help video. There are many more amateur budget bikers than professionals. And we need this kind of help! Thank you! I fixed the tension on my mechanical brakes today (and they pull from both sides) and it still worked. ❤
Very clear explanation as always. Therapeutic and satisfying just to watch. Thank you!
Absolutely excellent video. Super clear camera work and concise methodical approach. A real pleasure to watch and learn. Many Thanks!
I have a single piston caliper on my mtn bike with a 29/2.40 tire. It just wouldnt stop as well as it should. This video definitely helped. He pointed out a couple adjustments that I wasnt doing correctly. Thanks for the video
Thank you so much!
My brakes had been pretty weak these last few weeks, and I thought it had something to do with the cables.
Turns out, I just needed to adjust its padding.
Excellent detail on how to tune these type of brakes. Tried it on mine and it resulted in quite an improvement. Merci!
Thanks Dude! Brilliant short tutorial video, just what I was looking for to help me with setting up my Shimano M375 break calipers!
Thanks! I used more or less the same procedure but now I have made more order between the steps. Perfetto!!!
Not only was it very well explained, but you showed up close the mechanics of it.
Thanks as I’ve calibrated them several times now, but the last few times they barely brake which is Uber dangerous. I knew of the other inner side of the wheel, but haven’t until now after seeing your demonstration will do just that.
This is the simplest video outthere if you are begginer,before i had v brakes,now i have my first bike with disc brakes who were loose and with the help of this video i fixed it myself👌👌
Thank you very much for taking your time to do such a thorough explanation. take care
Best video I've seen on how to adjust single piston mechanical brakes
Clear and to the point. Clearest video I found on this. Great explanation.
💚 I adjusted my brakes today! Perfect!
(MTB 29er)
Thanks. Very clean and well put together clip. 👏🤗
Brilliant! Very well explained, and great camera use! Thanks :)
Best video I’ve seen on this subject… Thank you so very much!
This is the best tutorial on youtube, the best information explained simply.
Or you can also mount the caliper just enough so there's still a little side to side play, use a 0,3mm feeler gauge between the rotor an the stationary pad, squeeze the brake lever and the tighten then mounting bolts one by one carefully. If you tighten them carefully then it should be silent.
Thanks a lot for video :)
By rear rotor was bending a lot on braking. Hardly moves and no rubbing now.
Saved me a trip to decathlon, thanks.
Great tutorial. Thank you for this!
Very good and informative video. I bought the Gravelbike with same mechanical Promax disc brakes a few months ago. At the beginning I couldn'r set up the brakes properly, either the pads were rubbing too much or the brakes were innefective. I thought that the brakes are crap and that I do need something much better with Hydraulics. And I found a video similar to this one where they explained how to adjust the brakes, and since I did that I was amazed how the brakes good work and don't rubb. The cheap stuff works alos really good when it is adjusted correctly...
Very nice job, i learn a lot with your vídeos, i remenber the break fluid change without special tools...
Legend just sorted my brakes on seeing this video saved me few pennies. Cheers 😊
Tks alot man ! Really complete & well explained
Your timing is perfect! Very helpful, thank you!
I've had a problem with my new pads not fully stopping n I've tried everything but no one told me about loosening the piston housing and then spinning the wheel and breaking to re centre the piston..brilliant advice.brilliant tutorial..thank you my friend..
If no one ever told you that, then you "tried everything" except for watching a few youtube videos.
Great set-up video. On my Spyre brakes (with two moving pistons) I find setting the brake arm with a little tension at rest gives snappier braking. Compressionless brake housing is a must for mechanical brakes.
Great video helped me solve my brakes that didn’t work great 👍🏻
Thanks for explaining this. I used to take mine to the bike shop because I couldn't get it right.
Masterclass! Thank you.
Very informative video. Thanks for making it.
Very thorough video! thank you for the class! I just bought a bike with disc brakes for the first time - and they keep rubbing against the disc - this will help me fix, hopefully!
What I also like to do is to adjust the cable tension in such a way that the lever of the caliper is not free but is as lifted as possible, to minimize the distance between the moving pad and the rotor and thus make the hand lever more sensitive.
I learned a lot, i learn and absorb so much in order ko me.to tune and repair my MTB just in case and help Someone who in need when just in caae
this is really helpful, i have similar brakes
this video is very helpful thanks
Absolutely perfect video many thanks Buddy! Many youtube channels and videos simply say, Release the caliper bolts, Squeeze the brakes and BOOOOOM ALL DONE, because they never mention its for a 2 piston brake system... So I would never get it right hahahaha
Very informative video, thank you. Your English is very good too! Just a small suggestion, you can use the term "fixed pad" to refer to the non-moving pad. That's the term we use in the USA, at least.
Hell yeah. Thanks for this video.
You're a life saver, thanks
Great guide
This video is so good.. The best for single lever actuated disc brakes
The bb5 acid type had the hand dial making it easier to adjust. Have you tried the hybrid cable hydraulic calipers Danny. I have a set on a bike and they work well about 85% of my fully.hydraulic.
This is a good video! I was wondering what model are your CST Tires 😜
wow!...
thank u so much...
effective...my bikes now is good and can stop promtly.
THANK YOU THAT WORKED PERFECTLY AND I GOT AN E-BIKE
i find i center the caliper over the rotor ... set the fixed side ... then adjust the cable to get the pull i'm looking for ... all with the barrel adjusters turned in so i have room to adjust for pad wear
Thanks a lot mate.
Very useful, I guess, will try on my cheap brakes ))
Perfecto! Thank you!
fantastic video
awesome job explainin
I accidentally did it by ignoring adjustment until it would barely stop and then adjusting it. Very quiet and somehow really powerful disclaimer though if you're used to weak brakes and you adjust them to where they'll stop right it might throw you over the
handlebars. But that somehow seem like a good break-in.
But the static pad may also have a locking screw to release before any adjustments can be made. Right?
This helps so much! My bike shop back at home always adjusted my brakes so they would brake without having to pull so far on the lever, which is what I'm used to now. After moving, my new shop adjusts them so that I have to pull my levers a bit further than I'm used to. Even having to pull that extra little cm or 2 can be the difference between safely braking and running into someone in front of me! Now I'll be able to do this at home with ease :)
Very very very very veyr very very very thank you for this vedio
How to put new break pad on the none moving side ? Are new pads have sticky/glue on it ?
Same type of disc brake front side in my bicycle when I squeeze the brake not brake well. And inside the adjustment bolt is jammed can't adjustable
wouldn't adding a rubber boot to the brake cable prevent it from getting dirty?
I'm on a Trek FX 3 2021 with Shimano RT26 Ice Tech Rotors, matched with Shimano B01S Resin Brake Pad. (Resin only stated)
If I wanna improve braking performance, can I swop to Disco Brake Pads, namely the Ceramic Hard, Soft compounds, & Kevlar type without any need to change the Rotors?
Live in Singapore, mostly equatorial weather, hot, humid climate, with rains from November to January. Ride mostly on pavements & tarmac roads.
Often carry some weight behind, so effective braking is a concern.
Thank you.
I subbed just because of the gloves alone ..lol
Thanks!
I have the jak super brake system and it's failed me more than once
Why not minimize pad-rotor-pad gaps before tampering with cable?
What will u do when whole of the disc brake cable is covered and there is no more room for brake adjustment?
My bike front wheel disc brake inside the adjustable alen bolt could not be adjustable and it's jammed
Stumbled across this right as I'm faced with this problem
Which dual piston brake system on Amazon are you referring to?
Bro is a lifesaver
how do you replace the pads on the piston side of the caliper
Very helpful for someone new to disc brakes. I'm not sure about the process in Step 1, initial positioning of the caliper. At 3:10, before touching the cable, you adjusted the fixed pad to get "the same exact distance" between the pad and the rotor on both sides. I can understand wanting the same distance on both sides before resetting the caliper. But then you said if the pads don't hold the rotor just move in one side or the other (3.55). That confused me. Now you are ready to reset caliper but you no longer have the same distance between both pads and the rotor. Is it that the second adjustment should be so small it doesn't matter?
Pls do something about internal cable routing
Where can i get the front light bracket?
Thanks for this. I brought a Trek Verve 1 Disc and the braking at low speeds is ridiculous. I practically slide to a stop (and not quickly). My Brompton V-brakes and my friend's Trek FX 1 V-brakes stop much better, even in wet conditions. A bike shop mentioned I have a low spec brake given the Verve 1 price point. That makes little sense to me. A bike's brakes should work properly regardless of the price point. Safety shouldn't be compromised for a "quick" buck.
Bro we got on the mtb side on a Trek Marlin 8 hydralic disc brakes that are the lowest end shimanos out there. (Which work rather well but shouldn’t be on a bike like that). And those brake cost 80$. The wheels still come with cheap formula hubs.
@@Drago0900 interesting. Maybe I should have gone for hydraulic brakes.
This is the unfortunate problem with the bike industry moving towards disc brakes due to marketing. Cheap disc brakes are absolute garbage. Manufacturers should stick with rim brakes if they're trying to hit a price point, rather than throwing in cheap disc brakes. You can always trust a pair of $10 V-brakes to stop you. Good luck with a $10 disc brake system. The sad thing is, even the cheapest mechanical disc systems are far more expensive than rim brakes. Which means the manufacturer is also cheaping out on other components to hit the price point.
Is it fine to add preload to the brake calipers like you did on this video at 5:00? Or does it decrease the maximum performance of the calipers due to the decreased travel it needs to contact the brake pads?
no, the performance comes from your fingers or the type of brake pad / disc. All you do with this adjustment is set your preferred bite (or engagement) point in your lever.
Thanks! It helped me, but it is still sqeaking, so i have to adjust once more...
I was your 3000 st LIKE ;)
If it squeaks when braking that's a different issue. Probably you have contaminated (dirty) disks &/or pads. If it squeaks all the time (even when not braking), you may have warped/bent disks or your static pad is still adjusted too close to the disk rotor.
This helped me a lot! Have you had an issue with the inner spring for the moving caliper arm? I took mine apart and the only way to stop the spring from slipping from its groves was to duct tape it in place.
Me too. Maybe your comment help me.
How have you reassembled?
@@nippitaboy I had to reassembled the caliper arm really carefully. Once I had the springs in the tiny groves, I duct taped the inside of the caliper arm to the spring by threading the spring through the duct tape. No more slipping! I plan to replace the brake soon though.
What size is that disc?
My ones just smoke up when I go down a massive hill
Nice:)
I think I have the same brakes, for some reason my rear pads sit at an angle different than the one adjustable by the screws and I cannot align it :/ I am thinking the mounts or brake body is slightly bent or something.
Anyone has ideas ?
Might have gotten bashed/wrecked?
Mech brakes are awesome.
meanwhile on gcn: "how to replace your brake cables"... literally
Good luck if you puncture the back tire. I did on my first ride and there is no easy way to remove the tire. You can't disconnect the motor cable, like many e-bikes, unless you do it from the controller box and take ALL the cables out. Maybe you could check it out to see if you find a better way? Fiido support weren't helpful and they were aware of the issue. Bad design. Thanks!
Don't need to take the tire off, to fix a flat. Just pull the part of the inner tube out.....patch it..... and roll on.
The spring inside the pad came out while trying to adjust now I can’t get it back in. I’m talking about the spring that adjust the moving pad
Bicycle repair shops were invented for you.
@@howgoodwasthat My fault I was impatient I can usually do my own repairs but this bike is a Frankenstein of parts the brake levers are not the same as the disc brakes so those I’m upgrading later they work for now and even then the calipers were a brand I never even seen. The tires don’t get me started it’s been 3 days and I still can’t get that rim straight and it’s a mag wheel so it shouldn’t be out of alignment I believe I have to remove the tire just to put it back on again since the rotor keeps rubbing on my brake I still can’t get the front correctly I managed the back wheel but not my front. That being said not a bad bike for the money it’s my fault as I was being lazy and impatient without knowing how easy the adjustments were this is why I never buy my bikes online and always buy from local shops saves me the headache I managed to get the wheel somewhat correctly but that one spot is always rubbing the bead just refuses to seat.
Nice
BB7 owner, as long as I can get 180mm+ rotors and decent pads, I'll never need anything else.
"YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED HYDRAULIC! EVERYTHING ELSE IS UNSAFE! YOU ARE GONNA CRASH AND DIE IF YOU USE ANYTHING BUT HYDRAULIC! I AM NOT GONNA SUPPORT THIS!"
-my local bike mechanic when I asked him to order some mech discs.
meanwhile the cheapo hydro brakes on my 800$-Bike: Leaking oil all over the place at least once a year, to the point were you need to worry about loosing braking power on just about half of your tours - what a great feeling, when being 50km from home or somewhere off grid entirely.
I mean I used service my bikes completely on my own before I got hydros. I've had V'brakes and mech discs before and I was totally happy with the mech discs. Never had as many issues as with the hydros.
I am going back to mech disc and I am going BB7 as they seem the easiest to service in the field. And I am going back to servicing my bikes themselves.
You always hear about supporting your local businesses, but what am I supposed to do? I am for sure not gonna take the risk of loosing 90% break power in the middle of nowhere, just so they can have a premium for the leak-fix every year and if they slap my hand when trying to offer to them one last opportunity to make some money, it's their fault I am spending my money on the internet and put in the work myself. Like it's nuts. This bike shop puts its revenue for servicing the hydros about my safety! They wouldn't even listen to my arguments for changing the brake system!
Servicing the hydros myself is just not worth the hustle. I like how they feel, but I don't like em that much that I carry around bottles of oil, gaskets and specialized tool on every tour just in case. A simple allenkey on the other hand easily is put in your pocket in a pinch and you're good to go even in the unlikely scenario of sudden loss of brake power. Except of course if your cable snaps, but I've never experienced that or even heard of it happening, so that's probably an irrational fear of some people.
And buying proper Hydros? Why would I buy brakes that cost me at least half of the price of my bike? Especially if I am not riding down hill or hardcore xc or anything else where you need that much braking power. That idea is just ridiculous.
@@sihilius
You make some very good points there. I didn't think about if by some happenstance my brake line got cut while riding or my hydraulic fluid somehow sprung a leak. Cables are are extremely strong and durable and can function upside down (something I happen to discover when I was test riding a bike and I was just moving it around on its rear wheel, working the rear brakes to help me maneuver it.)
I piece of advice, because I had spent almost $100 trying to troubleshoot this, make sure you buy quality pads, do NOT buy economy, stick to either AVID or cool-stop.
If you're heavy like me, opt to buy the larger rotors and adapters, like 180mm.
@@MavHunter20XX Thanks for your advice. I appreciate It.
I already got a 180mm rotor in the front and a 160mm in the back from the old system. Guess they should be fine since I am of the lighter variety and usually don't carry a whole lot of weight in my backpack. And they still are well thick enough, so I am gonna keep them and see how they work with the new brakes.
I also already ordered the first two sets of replacement pads with the brakes themselves. They are also avid ones, so I should be fine in that regard.
Currently I am just waiting for the old brakes to leak again and as soon as I notice the slightest loss in braking power, I am heading straight home and switch them, so finally this bike will be actually reliable, rather than marketing reliable.
@@sihilius I recommend 180 in the rear as well, but I am of the heavier type. The reason why I say this is because if you're descending and braking, you'll want to shift your body behind your saddle ( you might know this already). However, there's nothing wrong to see how things work out first.
I'm doing the exact same thing but the brakes are squealing when I apply little force. And if I squeeze hard the squealing goes away. What might be the cause for that
Your brakes are fine, it's the pads and maybe the discs that are of poor quality
Three things come to mind. Fortunately, they are virtually free and easy to correct:
1.) You might have dust and road grime on the rotors. The approved method for cleaning them is to wipe them with a clean rag wetted with a little isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. You DON'T have to do this after every ride, but it must be done at least a few times a year.
2.) You might need to "bed in" the brake pads and/or rotors. There are several videos on TH-cam explaining and demonstrating how. This is critical to achieving noiseless braking and must be done each time you install new pads and/or rotors.
3.) Your pads and/or rotors might be glazed. You'll likely be able to see this if present. Get some very fine wet/dry sandpaper and lightly sand the pads and/or rotors. It won't take much time or effort, and don't be afraid of ruining anything; brakes are TOUGH. When finished, be sure to clean everything with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton rag.
First things first, make sure your rotor is closer to true. If your rotor isnt true, you will have the rub and will get worst over time.
Well what to do if that brake pad adjuster screw doesn't even spin no matter how much force I apply and strip the 5mm Allen key tool? (Trust me, it ain't movin' an inch
Spray some WD40 on it, might have some rust on the threads
@@albert.6925 Also DON'T forget to loosen the lock before and after you adjust the piston.
There is a tiny locking screw on the side/top of the big adjuster screw. Make sure it is loose before adjusting the pad.
Perfecto!
Perfetto!
What brand is your cable brake?
They look generic, Avid makes really solid mechanical breaks though, especially with bigger rotors and metallic pads.
What is the frame size for the 26”?
26" is usually the size of the wheels, it has almost nothing to do with the frame size