Hobby Cheating 89 - How to Use Oil Washes
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มิ.ย. 2017
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through using Oil Paints as a wash. This is a great technique for adding depth and volume to things like metal and flesh. It's also an excellent way to filter your base colors and create definition without the coffee staining and dirty effect that often accompanies acrylic washes. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/u... - เกม
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Vince, the daddy of miniature painting. This is a 5 year old video and people are only just popularising this in the last 12 months or so.
I honestly don't know how you dont have more subscribers. Your content is seemingly endless in both quantity and quality. You dont harp on about patreon etc, i wonder how you have the time!? Thanks for your videos either way :)
It's just become a part of my week at this point. :) - I suspect I am not interesting enough for everyone, but my goal is to teach, so anyone who subscribes and comes along on the hobby journey I am always grateful to. :)
I can just agree, it’s a privilege to get to watch these videos.
The negativity toward a foundational technique inclined me not to subscribe or finish the video
Between you and Marco, a painter wouldn’t need much more.
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Love LL cool oooolllllo o9o
Oh man, I am so glad I saw this for my "left outside too long" knight.
You're my hero and thank you for dedicating your time to help us peasants.
Speak for yourself son, I’m a knight.
I love your Oil Paint videos. Not many mini painters working in this space. Super informative and so knowledgeable!
Glad you like them!
I love this hobby cheating, I was strug;ing with oil washes for a while and now I'm pretty sure that i can pull this off. Thank you
for your time and effort!
Thank you, very glad to help as always! If you run into any challenges, just ask.
I used your ogre speed paint video and this one to paint my entire Grayjoy collection and I’m very happy with the result. I will use the oil wash technique for batch painting going forward. Thanks for your content. I’m pleased to see the quality for the level of effort.
Great to hear!
Great video on the subject. It was also very helpful that you showed past just the initial wash. How to clean up. Touch up, etc.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Brilliant video ,loads of tips , cant wait to practice them. Thanks Vince.
Happy to help.
Thanks for the great tutorial, I love those metal colours.
I had the same problem as babyschaf 1 when I tried oil washes once which left me quite disappointed with the technique as a whole then. Will give it another try now with a different white spirit!
Great video, Vince. Going to invest in some oil paints now, super excited to try them out. Thanks for inspiring me!
They are so much fun. I use them quite frequently for different effects. The real key is just playing around and seeing what you can do.
Just found your videos mate, they are great, thank you. Just about to do my first knight and I hope my metals look as gorgeous as yours. Vallejo ftw.
Awesome, glad to help and thank you very much - always glad to help. Best of luck with the Knight, they really are incredibly fun to paint.
just want to say thanks for the awesome content. loving my warcolour paint. and you do a great job explaining everything
Awesome, glad to hear it's helpful and if you have any questions, always just ask.
OMG I just did my first oil wash today and I'm in love!
Amazing right. ;)
I've recently purchased some W&N oil washes, liquitex ink set and a range of enamel washes, this is gonna be really helpful in learning some grimdark techniques. Good stuff vince 👏
Glad it was helpful!
@@VinceVenturella meant to say oil paints not washes but you got the drift
Fantastic video Vince
Glad you enjoyed it
I'm so glad you released this. I'm gonna do this for my hobby challenge dreadnaught now instead of the glossy nuln/Agrax. Now could I just apply by brush Vallejo gloss varnish instead of spraying a gloss varnish on the whole model before using the oil?
Probably, but I am not sure that wouldn't be too thick. If you are forced into brush, I would probably go for satin varnish. Or grab some of the Vallejo Metal Varnish (it will last the rest of your life) - it really preserves the shine of metal (at least through the airbrush, I will admit, I haven't done it through brush).
Thanks for sharing. That looks great. Have you considered making a tutorial about using Vallejo metal color paints to paint a large piece of equipment like a knight or steel tank?
You will actually see that in a video this week.I am putting up a Speed Painting an army in a week video and I do a whole section on VMtC through the airbrush on vehicles. The video will be time stamped so that people can jump to the areas they want.
I'll give a shout out for cotton balls. Get a lot of use to them, and can be altered in shape and size easily for every nook and cranny. They really give a solid streaking effect.
and while I agree with q-tips leaving some bits of cotton, I recommend rolling the edge of it down the pannel, not pulling. Helps mitigate that a lot.
I just can't abide the tissue left behind. That being said, you can by the cosmetic cotton swabs for make-up that are more dense and those give the benefits without losing material. That being said, a good make-up sponge has become my go-to.
I wanted to watch a video about oil washes for painting my space marines and I found myself listening intensely to a guy explaining how steel is not perfectly smooth and why that is. This was so interesting, you must have really thought about different surfaces and why they have certain colours and textures.
I do my best. :)
Excellent tutorial. Something I feel is worth mentioning (even though you touched on it) is that you (the generalized you) should use some sort of gloss varnish over your acrylics, be it gloss or semi-gloss; the smoother surface makes it *much* easier to remove the excess, whereas a matte varnish would still protect the acrylics but a matte finish promotes adhesion, making it more difficult to clean away the excess. For rivets, something I've seen done is to let the wash pool a little around it, then come back in with a moistened (with white spirit) brush or sponge and gently pull the wash downwards; this makes it look like the oil and grime that's accumulated there is gradually being pulled out of those depressions by exposure to weather.
Yep, I am going to do a whole different video on weathering effects with oil paints, as you can do some very cool stuff there for sure.
Hey Vince, love your videos. Do you have a gallery of completed miniatures? I would love to see the finished product of this knight!
THey are on my socials (there are also a good number in my recent video from Christmas), but no dedicated gallery.
This is an excellent tutorial!
~ Wolfbrother Methos
Thank you much, always happy to help. :)
Hello Vince, thank you for your long term community support! I cant state how much are these videos helpful!
Quick question regarding colored metals - I want to paint my very old dragon princes of caledor in the 5ed style, but little grim dark :) For armor, horse barding, lances etc I still use the bright colors, but over metallic preshade and than add chipping and pigments. This makes the 5ed fantasy style little bit mature :)
For the colored metallics, would you go with colored oil wash/tint - e.g. green, red oil wash - or would you rather use the method from your other video - using contrast paints over metallic preshade?
Many thanks - Jan
I would use the contrasts or similar over the top, the oil wash won't really accomplish what you're looking for unless you ant a very minimal effect.
A great video, very useful tips. Only a thing that I think you should have mentioned, the odourless thinner has, as its name says, no odour, but still can be harmful to breathe the vapours for a long time( the first symptom could be headaches).It's a bit tricky, since it has no odour, make sure that you use it in a well ventilated room.
It's a good point, I have an air filter running in my room, so I don't really think about it, but it's a good point.
Or wear a mask produced by 3M that has filters with it.
Would a good next step to this be grab a brighter silver and a really soft brush and a very gentle dry brush over the metallic sections? Then edge highlight the sharpest lines?
Thanks again for another great vid.
That could certainly be your next steps, you have it exactly, just depends on the exact effect you want, but that is very viable yes.
Great video- I'm just sarting to experiment with my technique, so found this really useful.
Glad it was helpful!
That was so interesting, thanks! I can't wait to see the hobby cheating video for flesh oil shading.
I love be aware of funky techniques like this one.
By the way, do you think this technique is as suitable for big mechanical miniatures as for little shining knight in armour like the Stormcast eternals?
Do you also use this technique on other metals like copper or brass?
And finally, would you suggest a satin varnish over a gloss varnish for metal?
Thanks again from France
Yes, this is awesome for things like Stormcast, Space Marines and Necrons or similar. I do use it on copper and brass, and I love it, but I use a different color set (rather, i use the same three colors, but have 3 successive washes of just the burnt sienna, then add a little purple, then add a little black, shading less, washing less each time).
I use the Vallejo Metal Varnish, it's specially formulated to preserve the shine of the Vallejo Metal Colors and I find it does so for all metallics.
@@VinceVenturella 3 successive watches over what time frame? 3 days?
Very interesting, I will try that out, thank you!
Have fun! :)
Hi Vince, a big thanks for this video and all the other ones ! Quick question : do we really need to varnish miniatures before using oil paints ? I heard that water based acrylic paints once dried won't react with White spirits. I guess varnishing will help the oil wash into recesses, but if I can avoid myself an additionnal step into my painting ... Thanks in advance for your help :)
You are correct, you don't really need to. That being said, it's something that will often get people coming out of the woodwork saying that you have to. Wht I will say is I generally do varnish because I usually varnish in between steps anyway to protect my work and create a save point, and I think that can help here as well.
Really awesome. Do you have a video for painting the metal section?
I don't have one specifically for the frame, but it's effectively the same technique and paints in this video. - th-cam.com/video/ByX2jIEmXJM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this. I’m definitely gonna try this out again. I just had bad experiences with Winston oils so I think I’m going to spring for the Artist ones rather than Winton oils. So after varnishing, what are your experiences with durability with gaming miniatures?
Never had an issue honestly. Perfectly durable.
good job! awesome video!
Thanks! :)
I love this video. I love your model and paint work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. A small comment from a guy who works with machines...the piston tube in a hydrolic system should be somewhat shiny (from the friction of motion, etc)
...if it looks oily, there is a problem with the hydrolic system! ;)
Thank you and that's an awesome tip! :)
@@VinceVenturella ...seriously love your video and the quality of your painting...a far shade (pun intended) better than the cartoony style done my so many other miniature painters. Already tried out your oil wash and it's amazing. Need to find some oderless white spirits though. Bought the stinky stuff by mistake (in japan)
Great video! I tried similar techniques on a couple models and noticed that the final product dried very grainy. Have you ever run into this, and if so how did you rectify for future models
So what happened there is you had too much white spirits to not enough oil paint and the solvent broke down the paint. The key is you want to avoid thinning it that much and clean up as normal. It's no issue, I've had the same thing happen, it's always a challenge getting the mix exactly right.
Vallejo makes a metallic medium, if I dull my metallics too much I make a wash of that and apply it as needed. But I would want some of my shadows to be matte.
What I never undertood is the Army's Painter Quickshade product... If you buy in the small bottles, it is a regular water based wash... If you buy in the large metal tins format, then is its a oil varnish based wash... It works great but it is quite glossy...
The larger tin is meant to be a dip, something you literally dip the whole model into, part of an older style of shading that pre-dates the newer shades that GW and Army painter made that was meant to be more user-friendly.
Fantastic video as always, thanks for sharing so much useful information with the community :)
One question though, what colours would you suggest for washes for flesh tones and other organic surfaces like plants and alien skin/carapace etc? I'm currently trying to collect a few base colours I could mix to make a good range of oil washes. Most videos seem to just cover metal/armour and use mostly blacks and browns. I've currently got Ivory Black, Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna, any suggestions for others that might help compliment these more organic use cases? Thanks! :)
Get a good Pthalo blue, alizarin crimson and maybe an Indian Red, those should help.
Fantastic, thanks very much! I'll see if I can track down those colours :)
Great stuff as always. Is oil wash your predominant wash medium just for metals or weathering only? When do acrylic washes work better?
When I'm doing washes, I mostly use oil washes. I use the acryllic washes for bases and for light glazing or filtering, usually not for washing.
Really great stuff! Just a question regarding oil paints - would you reconmend the Winton line from Winsor, or the Artists line? I've heard that the artist line has a much finer pigment then the winton.
Honestly, for washes, the Winton line is fine, but you can never go wrong with the artists.
@@VinceVenturella I was about to ask this too, it's great that you're still
replying to comments on a video you did four years ago!
Hey, thanks for this tutorial! I like the idea of these two other colours added to the black.
I have a question however: I use the exact same products for oil washes but my wash always(!) ends up drying chalky or flaky. As if the pigments separate from the solvent, so the smooth finish goes to waste. My White Spirit however had little flakes in it since purchase.
So you have any advice for me?
Thanks in advance!!
Sounds like it might be a problem with the thinner itself, some kind of impurity You may want to try a few other odorless thinners or white spirits. I have never had an issue with the Winsor & Newton, though it's a little more expensive. Might be worth a try.
Hi Vince. Thanks for all of the amazing content. Did you varnish this before the oil wash? If so, did you use gloss, matte or satin?
In general, no, I don't varnish metals, they are tough enough to withstand, but you have to have a light brush touch. If I am using them on matte paints, I do a soft varnish with some Satin varnish just to lock everything in.
Vince Venturella thanks very much
Great video... I would love to see a video on using it on Flesh... You mentioned it but it was not the focus on the video. Thanks
Yes, I need to do more oil on flesh videos, it really is a wonderful technique with large fleshy monsters.
Great video Vince have you tried Windsor newton water thinning oils they seam to work a lot better then the thinner based ones
Those seams will show in the legs after you finish Vince the armor doesn't cover them
I haven't gotten a chance to try the water based ones yet, though it's on my list. As to the seems, yes, I will likely have to touch those seem lines again, but I will finish all of that up at the end.
sorry for the noob question but would this technique work well with tanks ie rhinos landraiders and such? Tired of select washing all the crevices and having to repaint mistakes takes so long lol
Awesome video. What color did you use for the metal. Getting ready for Titanicus and those legs look amazing. Would love to replicate. Thank you.
The base metal is a zenithal of Vallejo Metal Color (Metal Color, not air, game or model color, it's the best metal paint on the market, I have a full review here - th-cam.com/video/XxODxALYV8o/w-d-xo.html) Steel all over, dark metal at 45 degrees and silver from above. Then some thin black ink from below. That creates the basic shading and values.
Really nice video. Wich vallejo metal colors did you use for the knight weapons?
My more or less standard rotation of Steel, Dark Aluminum and Silver (then some black ink lightly from below to enhance the shadows). Now, if you are looking for more brown tones, Burnt Iron and Pale Burnt Metal.
Great share thanks
Thank you sir, as always.
I've been using oil washes on vehicles for years, it's great for weathering..metal or paint. About to try it on actual figures, Imperial Fists I'm working on. I usually use a gloss varnish first but had a few guys tell me to shoot some satin..any advice? These are 30 Sternguard, don't want to screw them up...lol. Great Video by the way, love your stuff.
Yes, I prefer Satin varnish for matte surfaces. For metal, I use the Vallejo Metal Varnish as it really preserves the shine. That being said, Imperial Fists are all yellow, so I assume you are using an ochre/burnt sienna wash, I think the satin varnish should be good.
Totally agree on the weathering, there is another video I need to add right there to the list.
Thank you for the informative video! What shade of the Vallejo metal did you use for the base coat? Steel?
Correct! Just steel and some silver from above.
Thanks again Vince! I’m soon starting a metallic green armor project and was thinking of using this technique. I was thinking of using green and black to achieve a dark green wash. Should i consider adding red or brown to desaturate the underlying green?
I would say experiment. The oil paints will create a tint to the whole metal. That green could be very awesome a little red wash will brown it out. So you could always push the shadows in that way.
I’ve heard that a purple wash works well. I’ll mess around and see. I plan to zenithal/sketch with true metallics and add layers of clear green, then oil wash. I’ll show you the results at Adepticon!
Great video! I'm going to use this on steel armour for my Stormcast. The other colours are jade and purple for tabards, shoulder pads and shield, and copper/bronze for shoulder trim. Should I still include brown in my wash, or go a different direction?
A little brown in there won't hurt, though it will make things appear more slightly dirty (which might be good, depending on what you want). That being said, just dark black and purple would work fine if you don't want that.
@@VinceVenturella cheers Vince, I'll buy a few tubes of Winton!
Yeah man you answered all my questions. I'm painting a white army with pink and light blue highlights. Any suggestions with whites that you'd consider in the terms of shading and oil washes?
I wouldn't oil wash white, it will stain it, with cold white, you need to rely more on controlled soft glazes to add in colors, usually a very thin payne's grey.
@@VinceVenturella so you'd suggest brush painting all the shaded edges
Great vid... 2 questions please: 1) How different is this from the Army's Painter quickshade (the tin version), which is clearly oil-based? 2) When I tried this method, the wash dried very grainy and dusty on the model, like the paint it separated from the white spirit, total mess and no way I cold clear it with a q-tip... What am I doing wrong? Thanks!!
I think it might actually be enamel based, but either way, the oil wash can act very similar, but those are traditionally for dipping (though you could of course apply them with a brush). The short answer is it's just easier to control the color and the tones since you are mixing it yourself.
That happened because your ratio had too much mineral spirits and it broke up the linseed oil and pigment (much the same if you've ever thinned a GW shade with too much water). You want to increase the ratio of paint:thinner and you should avoid that.
Hey Vince. Painting up my Iron Warriors, the big thing that I realised is that, to sell the idea of old steel, you need tonal variations in the metals. I used oil based metallic paints over a zenithalled acrylic base coat, mixing a bit of Van Dyke Brown into my steel colour, and this gives me my light and dark.
But then, using Army Painter Strong Tone shot through the airbrush, I can place a selective brown filter over various parts of the armour. Strong Tone is so subtle when airbrushed, you can build up layers of dirt as you go.
I found this approach easier than trying to paint in or wash in the dirt.
Anyway, whilst painting up some scenery using poster paints, I ruined a piece when I found out poster paint isn't water fast. It occurred to me whilst watching this video, that the ability of poster paint to reactivate in water might actually be useful if you tried using it as a wash. Anyway, I've filed that away in the "something to try" bin for later.
Sure, you can do the same thing with Goache paints and if you are careful, you can use them for some great blending then just lock them with a varnish.
Hi Vince, this may be obvious but does the metal paint that you started with need to be dry before starting to wash with oils?
Thanks for the video and this old robot dude you painted looks awesome.
##just got to the end of the video where you said to varnish it before starting oil washing ##
Yep, make sure the metal paint is dry, then make sure the oil paint is dry. You don't absolutely have to varnish before working with acrylics over the top, but you want to be very careful and if you're new, varnish is safer.
hello! thank you very much for the detailed tutorial. Can I use water-soluable Oilpaints, mix them with water and expect a similar result?
I haven't tried with water soluable oils, but there is no reason it shouldn't work
thanks for the video. Would you use the same technic for the imperial knight size for titanicus or are they considered too small?
Nope, the little metal skeleton gets washed in the same way. :)
Thanks Vince this will go perfect for my metal based OBR army. How long do you need to allow it dry/cure for before you use the oils?
So I generally let the paint dry just a few minutes, then satin varnish and let that dry for about 10 minutes, then the oil wash, wait about 30-60 minutes, wipe the flat areas down. Then give a full 24 hours to cure
Vince Venturella thank you kindly.
When you go to varnish everything after your oil wash, do you find that the VMC Metal Varnish provides an appropriate finish over the top of the heavily oiled/opaque pieces, or does it require more steps to seal that?
So I will be honest, I don't really varnish over the metals at all (not before or after) I know what I talked about in here, and if you want to be totally safe, yes, that is the correct varnish, but in general, the metals are tough enough to not need a varnish and once you've wiped away most of the wash from the surfaces and it dries, you can paint over the top with acrylics again without issue.
Thanks for this video. I've been trying oil washes but every time I am getting a whitics grey residue in the recesses and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I'm applying varnish as you mention through an air brush so I don't think it's going on too thick. Any suggestions would be great!
So either the oil paint is poor or we're thinning it too much. You've broken down the pigment - that is the grey residue, the linseed oil (bonding agent) has been broken down by the solvent (white spirits) - basically, you need a little more paint in your mix. Remember, if it's leaving streaking and color over the flat surfaces, it's fine, because you can wipe everything up later. :)
Thanks so much! I wasn’t aware there was a “too thin” possibility. Head too much in acrylic zone.
A lot of questions from a very inspired novice: After seeing your video I would love to try using oil washes on miniatures, but I know, that usually thinners will ruin the acrylic paint so a coat of varnish is required, which sounds like it’s a pain especially that I livei n an apartment... I have already bought the w&n white spirit, but I am wondering if there are any thinners that don’t eat through the acrylic paint and therefore don’t require the use of varnish? And if so will the oil wash flow well over the acrylic paint? Someone suggested that I use a w&n glazing medium instead of a thinner, but i have no idea how that would work considering the drying time and flow. Also, there are the water mixable oil paints. Would they do the job right? And if so, with what medium? I would like to retain the qualities like the long drying time and the ability to wipe excess wash off some areas with a sponge like you do and the general advantages of traditional oil washes...
So many questions there. 1) Yes, there are other thinners, all oil paints will be fairly destructive to acryllic paints if they are unvarnished. 2) Except the water based oil paints, which are strange sorcery,but are much nicer to acrylics.
My best advice is if at all possible, an airbrush can give you a quick varnish layer that you can oil wash over without issue.
Hey Vince, sorry for the post on an old video. Do you still advocate using the metal colour gloss varnish and oil washing? Or just glazing in the shades?
Use the varnish if you want to be safe. if you want to live the life of a rebel like I do most of the time, I use it straight over the metal color, but I am light touch with the brush.
You mention using this technique for flesh areas. Other than the flatness, what makes this oil washing different from hard-edge forms? Or oil washing any organic surface for that matter (hair, fabric, wood, etc)?
What's great about it with flesh, is that flesh naturally is translucent (we don't think of it that way, but it is). The oil wash can be so transparent and thinned and controlled, you can add all sorts of thin wonderful tones like reds, purples, sepias and more into skin.
What layers of varnish (since you said oils will ruin acryllic) do you use when dealing with oils on metal, and potentially layers on top of that (for heavy metallic pieces with some details that may be better done after). For example would you do the metal (acrylic), gloss varnish, oil wash, gloss varnish, vallejo metal varnish, brush on matte varnish, acrylic, brush on gloss varnish, brush on matte varnish (So many layers of protection). Or would you use all metal varnish?
So if you want the real answer, the secret answer, I don't use any varnish. I say that because for most people, if I tell you not to varnish, you will destroy the acrylic paint by pushing really hard with your brush and so on.
What I actually do is paint the metals with Vallejo Metal Color (important, as they are very tough paints), then I gently (GENTLY) apply the oils, just touching the various parts of the model and letting the capillary action do it's thing. Then I let it dry, I never varnish it ever.
Now if you don't trust yourself not to scrape paint with your brush, then the answer is the Metal Varnish.
Thanks for the video, I've been struggling to find good videos for washes, everyone just talks about panel lining
Gonna be working on my first model in a few months when the model releases so I'm trying to learn everything in advance and plan my paints now
I was wondering would Tamiya TS-13 clear acrylic lacquer work with Oil washes?
I know they are good for Acrylic or Enamel, but there's no mention of Oil
I would think it would work fine as long as everything is fully cured, but I've never tried it.
Vince, have u tried other oil paints besides Winton? I saw a set of 24 for 14 bucks at hobby lobby but am not sure if those would work as well as Winton considering those are like 6 or 7 a tube. Is there a quality difference? I'm going to start out trying oil washes soon.
I have tried a few others and I think if you are just talking about washes, even cheaper oils will still work. Oil paints are largely priced on the pigment and the cheaper oils use cheaper pigments, but if you are just using black, sepia and a purple, you are largely fine.
also I got burnt umber and ivory black. mine is for nurgle tanks though. I figured I'll mix brown and black together.
Yep, makes perfect sense. :)
That metal looks fantastic. I wish I had watched this video before I started my Armiger Warglaive...at least there are two in a set
Exactly, there is always a second Armiger in the box. ;) (and more knights beyond that).
Vince, have you ever tried or considered the newer gen of water-mixable oil paint? The pitch is that you can have the best of both worlds. You have convinced me on the merits of oil wash versus acrylic wash, but I get considerable pushback regarding the solvent smell and toxicity issues with traditional oils. Thanks.
I am aware of them, but haven't given them a try yet. I really want to get around to them some day.
@@VinceVenturella Would I be correct in saying the capillary action of the oil wash is due to the solvent and not the paint? So if I took one of these water mixable oils and diluted with water to wash consistency, I would likely not see the same result? It would behave more like an acrylic wash, I'm thinking. I may just have to buy one and give it a shot.
Thank you for your awesome tutorials. I have a question: maybe I missed it but do you varnish the paint before the oilwash? In the other oilwash Video you say you varnish twice, before the wash and after the wash.
But in another video you state that varnishing metal should be avoided because it will loose the metal effects...
Great question, when it comes to the metals, I don't varnish them. You don't technically have to varnish acrylics, they don't interact with white spirits, but there is often a LOT of liquid with a wash, so they can loosen some acrylic paints just by virtue of that much moisture.
That being said, the metallics are tough enough that they don't come up as easily and you just want to have a nice light touch with the brush, letting the capillary action do the work for you. That was a long way to say, no I don't varnish the metals (before or after). :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you very much for your answer!
Watching again before I attempt, but question: did you put the oil paint straight in your cup from the tube or off something to remove the oil from the oil paints themselves?
Just straight in and mixed like crazy.
Can you mix a batch of your oil wash in a dropper bottle? do you paint on the metal varnish or put it through your airbrush? Off topic questions from stuff I noticed in the video. What is with the tape on the hip joint? What do you use to fill in the mold gaps? (If you couldn't tell I have started going through your videos.... Love them. wish I found them sooner)
I know James Wappel makes pre-thinned washes, I have never tried. I airbrush the varnish (if I varnish, I will admit metal paint is tough enough I have washed over it with oils without varnishing and as long as you are careful, it's fine.
1) The tape was covering something I wanted to remain paint free (the connection point).
2) Varnish, plastic putty, whatever works to fill the gap.
Happy to help as always and glad you are enjoying the content. :)
I have a few questions:
1. You mentioned you sealed the miniature. From what I've read that's a must step or you damage/strip the paint underneath. Is that true?
2. I have heard you can't paint over oil wash with acrylic (ie water on top oil) so it has to be the last step, is that correct?
Thanks
1) You don't really have to seal the miniature. It's a falsehood, but if you don't you do have to be careful. The spirits are making the area very, very wet and softening the paint. If you have a hard brush, you can pull the paint up. I don't really ever seal my minis before an oil wash specifically, especially if they are metals, but if you want to be safer, you certainly can, it doesn't hurt anything to do so.
2) You can certainly paint right over the top, that's a myth. I use oils over acrylics all the time, you have to wait a few days for them to dry, but once they do, you can just keep going (you can varnish first if you want to lock them in and again, be safe).
Can you add acrylics after? Like edge highlighting if necessary? I'm going to use an oil wash on my whole thunderhawk to give it a gritty feel. Should I edge highlight before the wash and bring the highlights back with wiping it off?
Yep, as long as the oil wash is completely dry, you can put additional acrylics over the top.
Hey Vince, I'm going through this process for the first time with a knight, oil wash and metal color. I wanted to ask what you recommend as an edge paint for metal color gun metal?. I'm worried my usual 2 stage edge of ironbreaker/runefang will look strange due to the flecks. Thanks for the awesome videos.
As an edge color? Silver Vallejo Metal Color, it's always the choice for your highest highlights. My best advice is once you use metal color, only use metal color.
@@VinceVenturella On it. I havent used it out of the pot, only through the airbrush. Do you thin it?
@@jaysteel6222 Through both brush and airbrush. THrough the airbrush, I use a drop or two of vallejo airbrush thinner.
What varnish are you using Vince? Awesome tutorial! I really like that look.
I use the Vallejo Metal Varnish, its specially formulated for these metals and really does a great job of preserving their luster or shine. Barring that, probably a thin satin varnish I would thin.
Vince Venturella Very cool! Excited to try this!
Nice video. Do you varnish the oil wash once it dries to seal it in?
For the wash, I don't varnish, no real need to. That being said, you want it to be completely cured and dry (24-48 hours)
Vince, I've watched your video here before and I've attempted to use your methods but I keep having an issue with the wash + mineral spirits dissolving my base coats. Despite the fact that I DO use both a flat protective coat followed by a gloss coat to encourage the flow of the oils. I will apply the wash, wait a few minutes for a bit of drying and use q-tips to wipe away the wash. Well, often I pull up much more than I intend. At first, I thought it was the type of mineral spirits I was using but you use the same brand as I. I can't seem to find the answer!
Well, they key here is a couple of things being the culprit potentially. Mineral spirits don't interact with Acrylic paint, but they make the area, very, very wet. Any direct presure can remove paint because acrylic paint when wet gets soft.
So here are two options.
1) Its the metal paint you're using. It might not be very durable, something like Vallejo Metal Color is real tough, and you're less likely to pull it up. However as you said you are varnshing, this might not be the issue.
2) It's the Q-Tips, pressure and motion. So I wouldn't do any of those things. First, get yourself some make-up sponge triangles. They are way better for this task. You want to touch very lightly and dab more than wipe. If you dab, you should see less of an issue.
Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for being prompt! I will try this immediately on my next project (in case you're curious, I am re-working a bunch of old leman russ' and chimaeras from my 2nd edition guard army).
If you mix Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Blue, make jokes here, you can get black out of it.
Had to take a class in college using oil paints, which I have a lot leftover, and the professor made explicit we had to learn how to make our own black.
Still great video, will use this for terrain.
Thank you, and I agree, learning the different color influenced blacks you can make is a really important lesson.
Mr Venturella. In this video you mention you like to also use oil washes on flesh/skin tones. Do you have a video on this specific use of oil washes?
Sure do - It's old, but you can see it in action (there are some newer ones in the playlist as well) - th-cam.com/video/pRakFgYa7_s/w-d-xo.html
@@VinceVenturella thanks! Btw did you get a chance to look at the website for the Scale color floww oils? I did provide a link but I think TH-cam was removing it.
Hey Vince. Would you use black oil paint for shading storm troopers?
It would be tough, oil still stains somewhat and putting black over white, even when you can clean it might stain it. If you had it very sealed with gloss varnish and then were careful with clean-up, it could work.
Thank you for the tutorial, Vince. One question, if my oil washes have dried very well (over weeks), can I then apply a satin varnish with my airbrush?
You can generally apply new layers after a day without any issue.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you very much.
Is there any significant difference between enamel washes (AK streaking grime for example) and homemade oil washes?
Thanks for the video and advice anyways!
Yes, oils take longer to dry, but are much easier to remove completely if you need to.
I wonder if the same technique is applicable to metallic minis like Necrons and Skitarii, or small metal parts like augmetics. I really like the tone, but wiping the paint off smaller surfaces could be a challenge.
Yep, it would certainly work on mostly metal dudes like Necrons and AdMech. The key is you want to get yourself a big pack of make-up sponges and those should be soft and small enough to wipe small minis.
@@VinceVenturella Do other metals pick up dirt in the same manner as steel? I. e. can steel and copper/gold/bronze be washed by the same paint, or should I, perhaps, mix one reddish wash for steel and one purple-ish for warm-colored metals?
What would you recommend for an oil wash on blue grey-white armor? Trying to add some finishing details to my white scars
It's tough with white to be honest, because even an oil wash will stain white. My honest recommendation for white is to never wash it, because it will always leave some stain behind, even if cleaned up with white spirits. That being said, a soft blue/black quite thin wash would be what I would use.
what colours should one have in it's oil paint palette to create washes? standard basic range (blue, red, yellow, white, black) or any extended form of said colours?
Black, Sepia and Purple and generally pretty good for metals and such. The rest of the colors can be useful when you need to make a specific wash.
Great tutorial, but I got a question - would you say grade of oil paint (entry level/student-grade, mid-grade [like winton], professional and fancy) matters a lot, or something mid-grade will do as long as it doesnt't have too much filler added?
For the washes, student grade and above matters and that’s all you need. If you’re doing the full mini, Winton and above would be recommended
@@VinceVenturella Phew, thanks :) I got me a few tubes of pretty cheap oils for washes and while they work I started wondering if I should have gotten something better. Cursed overthinking >_>
have you tried scale75 oil washes? I presume you wouldn't need to add more spirits to those?
I have not tried them yet, I will have to look into them, but if they are already wash consistency, you probably wouldn't thin, but you would still want some white spirits to clean up.
I know this video is about oil washes (and it was great), but, if you use oils to dry brush, how long do you let them dry before putting varnish over them?
Generally about 24-48 hours.
So I noticed that my wash is still wipe-able after a few days, this is where I missed wiping excess before. Problem is that I want to put more acrylic over top. Is this a bad idea? Should I let it sit longer? Varnish the area I want to paint over? Should I have waited to do the wash last? Painting necrons, washed first because metal+wash = battle ready.
If it's touch dry, you should be able to simply varnish over and go from there. That's what I do.
Also, what varnish should I use to keep this effect to the end?
I generally use either Vallejo Metal Color Varnish or barring that, a very light coat of gloss varnish OR my absolute preferred if you are brave - no varnish. I will often simply let the oilwash dry, (48 hours, wiping away excess soon after applying as in the video) then I will just paint over it and not varnish. Some people will tell you that is bad, I have never had any issues.
Hi Vince, I applied a "Gloss Varnish" and am having success with both "Oil" and "Enamel" washes. If I want to continue to apply highlights with Acrylic Paint (i.e., after the Wash), do I need to "Matt Varnish" before applying paint over the "Gloss Varnish" to mitigate any paint adherence issues? Your thoughts are welcomed.
It's a good idea to matte varnish yes, unless you're dealing with metal paints, then you just let it fully cure.
Hi Vince. I can get Winsor Newton 37 ml oil at a fair price, so what colors do you think I need for washing to cover most situations?
I think I need ivory black, burned umber, magenta - and a blue, red, green and orange. Is there anything I dont need or somethin that I have forgotten? And what blue, green, red and orange do you recomend in the winsor newton line?
Again thank you for sharing your knowledge - and for inspiring us! :)
Cadmium Red, there is really only one normal orange, as to blue Pthalo blue is your go to and green, it's a question of whether you want a more yellow or blue toned green. Those and what you listed should get you going.
@@VinceVenturella I think a (dark) Blue toned green will be best for washing. Can you help with what color that would be? Again thank you for sharing your knowledge and inspirering us commen folk. 👍
Too bad TH-cam doesn’t have a ❤ button along with the 👍🏻button. Thank you Vince!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Vince! I realize this is an older video, does the technique stand the test of time? Would you update anything about it? Just getting into oil washes and it's a bit intimidating!
Yep, still use this exact technique today. It can be scary, and it's tough to get the mix right, you'll often mess it up when starting, but that's okay, it's easy to remove and try again. :)
Is it recommended to apply a "gloss varnish" before applying the "oil wash" (flows easier and easier to remove)?
You can, I don’t generally do it, but it can help it flow and prevent staining.
Hey Vince, I'd like to try oil washes on my metallics, but I usually paint really heavily rusted armour and weapons on my Beastmen. Would it make sense to still use an oil wash? And if so, would you suggest applying the rust (as per your video where you used typhus, camoshade, sepia etc.) before the oil wash, or after?
So when it comes to stuff like this, you want to paint in the layers of the "thing itself" - i.e. in the order it would be present. So the metal, the oil wash to set the tone and deep recesses, and then the rusting and weathering on top. Hope that helps.
Ok thanks Vince!
Thanks! Do I need to varnish before applying acrylics over the oil wash (if so, gloss?), or will it be fine once oil paint is dry?
Can you make an amount and store it? Or does the linseed oil or whatever is used for thinning, evaporate over time?
If you keep it in a glass bottle, you can pre-make it, as long as it's air tight.
Hey Vince, can you paint acrylic paints and inks over something that has been oil washed? Or does the oil prevent the acrylic binder from adhering?
You can, in general, you want to let the oil wash dry completely, which should be given at least 24 hours, then varnish it over, then you can paint freely with your acrylics, I do it all the time. ;)
Cheers @@VinceVenturella, I've bought some Vallejo Metal Colour varnish to go over my metalics.
I have noticed other people sometimes matte varnish over metallic paint using regular Vallejo varnish. I am worried about losing the metals sheen when I do that, both you and Sam Lenz say that is best avoided. So I might experiment with matte varnishing an entire model with the airbrush, then using the metal varnish with a paint brush just over the gold and steel parts to bring back the sheen.
This got me over the hump to try some oil washes, but I had a little bit of difficulty with grainy finish after the oil washes set. I was doing a Winton burnt umber wash over VGA bone white and once the wash went on it looked great, but once it started to dry you could really see some separation. Is this just what I should expect when I'm doing an oil wash over a lighter color or do you think I might have had the mix too thick or too thin?
Many possibilities, here are some thoughts.
1) Did you sponge off the flat areas? you want to use the oil washes long dry to clean up and tidy up as it dries, remember you can work it for like 2 days after, so you can always correct. If a day later, you see some stains, you can wet a brush with white spirits and clean.
2) Make sure you have a good sealed surface if working with matte paint. What I mean is when doing metallics, you can lightly varnish or even go over directly if you are careful, but over matte paint, the pigment is more fragile and you want a good gloss varnish coat before you wash.
3) It could be still too thick or thin, it's something you sort of have to play with over time and find the right mixture, there is no magic recipe since each oil paint (brand and color) is unique.
@@VinceVenturella I did a few thin coats of a gloss varnish and clean up was pretty good. I was trying to do more of a recess wash between all of the armor plates, but the area where I wanted the wash to pool (the recesses) wouldn't really set up fully opaque it looked more grainy. Maybe I wasn't slapping it on thick enough?
In that case yes, sounds like it was too thin.