Very rare when you watch a video like this and hang on to every word as the information is so specific and informative - excellent use of 10 minutes! Thank you!
I have Burned & raw Umber for dark browns & Burnt & raw Siana for light browns. I all so got Ivory black which is more of a dark grey than black. I have always been a fan of Vallejo's washes for panel lines, but oils just offer more control & easy clean-ups.
Excellent and informative video. I have oil paints, but still using Tamiya panel liners 😂. You are quite right about satin varnish, it works best. My favorite final varnish is AMIG ultra matt lucky varnish...
cracking detailed how to apply oils video great tips and excellent detailed way to apply washes and which brands to use fantastic video and looking forward to the next one
I made a mistake recently by applying an oil based wash over an enamel gloss cote...i forgot the thinner for the wash is also an enamel thinner!! result- paint peeling off and salvage measures needed!! - thanks for this tutorial. - wish I 'd seen it before !!
Im still having problems with this! I think my timing is off! 1) Prime with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Leave to dry 1 Day. 2) Paint with Tamiya Acrylics, Leave to dry 12 Hrs - 1 Day. 3) Topcoat Mr Hobby Gloss Spray. Leave to dry 24 Hrs. 4) Apply Decals. 5) 2nd Coat as "3" Leave to dry 24 Hrs. 6) Oils & White Spirit Wash applied. ----- This is where the Paint starts lifting? What am I doig wrong? Thanks in advance
That's quite odd, as the tamiya and mr.hobby products are lacquer and alcohol based, so the white spirit really shouldn't be interacting with them. Are you brush painting? Sometimes this can leave areas of unevenness that allow the spirits to soak through and compromise the strength of the base layer, however this is still uncommon even so. Do you happen to have the links to all the products you're using? This may help in diagnosing the problem, however it's still very odd as your process is flawless. I'm very sorry for your troubles!
No I Airbrushed. I think it may be the temperature ! I am in Bangkok and without the aircon on overnight , the temp can be nearly 40 degrees (hot season here).
@@alanjacks3835 the heat could have something to do with it, especially if it's humid, so could be worth testing it with the Aircon on as a control variable 👍
I know I am 8 months late to the party here, but I wouldn't use Tamiya primer it's a lacquer and can be dissolved by white spirits. People will tell you this can't happen with a lacquer, but it has happened to me multiple times. Change out the primer for an acrylic primer and you should be fine.
nice video ,not sure if you have used zippo fluid rather thinner ? I personally like that it dries faster but you still got great control so for streaking effect is ideal !
No problem! I've never used them directly over the paint, so I can't be 100% sure, but theoretically it should be fine as white spirit doesn't react with acrylics. The oil in the oil paint may react with it however, so I'd always recommend laying down a varnish layer before using oils 👍 Edit: I should add, theoretically the oil shouldn't react either, but chemical makeup can vary between acrylic paint brand and I've had disasters due to that in the past, so best not to take any chances
Hello sir i have an issue with this, so i made my models fully with a brush. 1 Vallejo surface primer acrylic polyuréthane 2 acrylics base paint 3 Vallejo acrylic gloss varnish 4 oil paint abteilung 502 + mineral gazoline "essence f" 5 try to remove excess oil paint like the video after drying of course. But i have 2 issues : 1 its like the oil paint stucked to the varnish and dont leave very easy 2 if i rub too much with thinner my paint and varnish will be removed 😢 (maybe lack of varnish in some areas ? If i do this gently i can have something clean but its like the base paint is darker maybe its normal ? Thanks
@@Brennus34 hello! From everything you've explained, the first thing I'd try to do is get a hold of some artist's white spirit if you can as it's much less potent than the variety you mentioned. There's a possibility that your stuff is melting the varnish layer slightly and integrating the oil wash with it, which is then making it hard to clean off. If this doesn't fix the problem, let me know and I'll re-assess! Good luck :)
Thanks ! i will try that, maybe i let too much time to dry the oil paint ? I let dry about 20 minutes before removing the excess maybe its too long and that explain that the oil paint stick to the gloss varnish. I will try this tomorrow and After ill try the artist white spirit thanks a lot !
Hi. Im using Tamiya acrylics with xf-86 matt varnish, then decals and oil washes, then x-22 gloss varnish for finish. I know Tamiya have X-35 semi-gloss but didnt tried yet, they dont have satin tho. Do you know any satin varnish for airbrush that would be a good replacement for matt coat to ease removing excessive oil?. For Tamiya paints and varnish im using X-20A thinner, i know some people are prefering Leveling Thinner.
For tamiya acrylics x-20a is perfectly fine if that's what you've got 👍 Mr levelling thinner is great, and so is tamiya retarder lacquer thinner, but it's not mandatory. In terms of satin varnishes, tamiya does do an acrylic one - X-35, but they call it semi gloss instead of satin :)
Thanks for the video, nice tips and tricks. My biggest issue is a can never clean away all the excess and end up blending instead. Can't ever seem to make a nice crisp, clean model. I suspect it's my low quality oil but don't know for sure. Any ideas?
If you're having trouble with removing all the excess oil, it's most likely down to the surface underneath - if your goal is to remove it all so you're left with crisp panel lines, you'll want to go for a nice smooth gloss varnish layer (I recommend GX-100) Also, make sure the excess oil from the paint has been removed beforehand on a piece of card :)
I'm looking into using oil washes for my Warhammer models so this video was great for explaining the basics. However what safety precautions/equipment do you need when working with white spirits, or is working in a well ventilated space enough?
White spirit vapours are definitely not the worst you could encounter in modelling, however I'd definitely make sure your workspace has good air flow as breathing in large quantities over time can be harmful. As I say however, don't stress about it too much, just don't get complacent with these sort of chemicals 👍
You can! It's a slightly different technique, as you first have to lay down a thin layer of white spirit on top of which you can apply oil paint and blend it gradually, but it's the same sort of idea. For that you will definitely want a satin or Matt varnish undercoat, as they allow for much easier blending
@@ravenpen-orthyn9172 it does :) white spirit and turpentine have the same thinning properties, except white spirit is a safer, less flammable/toxic version of turps made from petroleum. It can be harmful to plastic/paint if you buy a really strong variety, but generic white spirit from hobby shops and paint stores is fine and works great!
@@alaingay good point on the natural hair brushes - they're very valuable! And yes, as I said in the video, if you were so inclined you could apply oils and white spirit directly onto all types of acrylic paints - only enamels and oils should have a negative response to this. If you've had a negative response to this in the past, feel free to describe the situation and I'll try to diagnose!
I hope you guys find this handy :)
Very much so! Thank you!
@@robertgarner11 no worries!
When the British guy says "whilst" in an informational video, you KNOW that you're getting quality advice! Great video. Thanks!
Haha! No worries at all 😊
Thanks
No worries, it's my pleasure! Glad you found it handy, and thank you for the kind donation 😊
Very rare when you watch a video like this and hang on to every word as the information is so specific and informative - excellent use of 10 minutes! Thank you!
Very glad you found it informative! My pleasure!
I have Burned & raw Umber for dark browns & Burnt & raw Siana for light browns. I all so got Ivory black which is more of a dark grey than black. I have always been a fan of Vallejo's washes for panel lines, but oils just offer more control & easy clean-ups.
Fantastic selection there! Indeed, other products are very good, but oils are just on another level as you say 👍
Excellent and informative video. I have oil paints, but still using Tamiya panel liners 😂. You are quite right about satin varnish, it works best. My favorite final varnish is AMIG ultra matt lucky varnish...
Glad you found it helpful, cheers!
You don't often find someome who is a top modeller and can teach with precision. Many videos miss out vital info. Subscribed.
I'm glad you're a fan :) thank you so much mate
Thank you, always good to hear it over and over again,, even when doing it regularly.
:)
cracking detailed how to apply oils video
great tips and excellent detailed way to apply washes and which brands to use
fantastic video and looking forward to the next one
Cheers man!
Nice work and thank you for the effort in making the video.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for sharing.
No problem!
I made a mistake recently by applying an oil based wash over an enamel gloss cote...i forgot the thinner for the wash is also an enamel thinner!! result- paint peeling off and salvage measures needed!! - thanks for this tutorial. - wish I 'd seen it before !!
No worries, and best of luck with the model!
Knowledge is power, nice one mate 😉👍
Indeed!
Im still having problems with this! I think my timing is off!
1) Prime with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Leave to dry 1 Day.
2) Paint with Tamiya Acrylics, Leave to dry 12 Hrs - 1 Day.
3) Topcoat Mr Hobby Gloss Spray. Leave to dry 24 Hrs.
4) Apply Decals.
5) 2nd Coat as "3" Leave to dry 24 Hrs.
6) Oils & White Spirit Wash applied. ----- This is where the Paint starts lifting?
What am I doig wrong?
Thanks in advance
That's quite odd, as the tamiya and mr.hobby products are lacquer and alcohol based, so the white spirit really shouldn't be interacting with them. Are you brush painting? Sometimes this can leave areas of unevenness that allow the spirits to soak through and compromise the strength of the base layer, however this is still uncommon even so. Do you happen to have the links to all the products you're using? This may help in diagnosing the problem, however it's still very odd as your process is flawless. I'm very sorry for your troubles!
No I Airbrushed. I think it may be the temperature ! I am in Bangkok and without the aircon on overnight , the temp can be nearly 40 degrees (hot season here).
@@alanjacks3835 the heat could have something to do with it, especially if it's humid, so could be worth testing it with the Aircon on as a control variable 👍
I know I am 8 months late to the party here, but I wouldn't use Tamiya primer it's a lacquer and can be dissolved by white spirits. People will tell you this can't happen with a lacquer, but it has happened to me multiple times. Change out the primer for an acrylic primer and you should be fine.
nice video ,not sure if you have used zippo fluid rather thinner ? I personally like that it dries faster but you still got great control so for streaking effect is ideal !
I've not personally used it but I've heard many people sing its praise! Sounds like a good solution
Great tutorial,thanks.
No problem :)
A very helpful video, thanks. Unless it was mentioned and I missed it - can oil washes be used over acrylic paints such as Vallejo?
No problem! I've never used them directly over the paint, so I can't be 100% sure, but theoretically it should be fine as white spirit doesn't react with acrylics. The oil in the oil paint may react with it however, so I'd always recommend laying down a varnish layer before using oils 👍
Edit: I should add, theoretically the oil shouldn't react either, but chemical makeup can vary between acrylic paint brand and I've had disasters due to that in the past, so best not to take any chances
Thanks for sharing useful video cherrs
My pleasure mate
Thank you 😊
Welcome!
what brand do you use for the satin coat thanks
Satin - tamiya, gloss - Mr hobby gx, Matt - also Mr hobby gx :)
Hello sir i have an issue with this, so i made my models fully with a brush.
1 Vallejo surface primer acrylic polyuréthane
2 acrylics base paint
3 Vallejo acrylic gloss varnish
4 oil paint abteilung 502 + mineral gazoline "essence f"
5 try to remove excess oil paint like the video after drying of course.
But i have 2 issues :
1 its like the oil paint stucked to the varnish and dont leave very easy
2 if i rub too much with thinner my paint and varnish will be removed 😢 (maybe lack of varnish in some areas ?
If i do this gently i can have something clean but its like the base paint is darker maybe its normal ?
Thanks
@@Brennus34 hello! From everything you've explained, the first thing I'd try to do is get a hold of some artist's white spirit if you can as it's much less potent than the variety you mentioned. There's a possibility that your stuff is melting the varnish layer slightly and integrating the oil wash with it, which is then making it hard to clean off. If this doesn't fix the problem, let me know and I'll re-assess! Good luck :)
Thanks ! i will try that, maybe i let too much time to dry the oil paint ? I let dry about 20 minutes before removing the excess maybe its too long and that explain that the oil paint stick to the gloss varnish.
I will try this tomorrow and After ill try the artist white spirit thanks a lot !
Hi. Im using Tamiya acrylics with xf-86 matt varnish, then decals and oil washes, then x-22 gloss varnish for finish. I know Tamiya have X-35 semi-gloss but didnt tried yet, they dont have satin tho. Do you know any satin varnish for airbrush that would be a good replacement for matt coat to ease removing excessive oil?. For Tamiya paints and varnish im using X-20A thinner, i know some people are prefering Leveling Thinner.
For tamiya acrylics x-20a is perfectly fine if that's what you've got 👍 Mr levelling thinner is great, and so is tamiya retarder lacquer thinner, but it's not mandatory. In terms of satin varnishes, tamiya does do an acrylic one - X-35, but they call it semi gloss instead of satin :)
Thanks for the video, nice tips and tricks. My biggest issue is a can never clean away all the excess and end up blending instead. Can't ever seem to make a nice crisp, clean model. I suspect it's my low quality oil but don't know for sure. Any ideas?
If you're having trouble with removing all the excess oil, it's most likely down to the surface underneath - if your goal is to remove it all so you're left with crisp panel lines, you'll want to go for a nice smooth gloss varnish layer (I recommend GX-100) Also, make sure the excess oil from the paint has been removed beforehand on a piece of card :)
I'll give it a go, thanks! @@ModellingWeekly
I'm looking into using oil washes for my Warhammer models so this video was great for explaining the basics. However what safety precautions/equipment do you need when working with white spirits, or is working in a well ventilated space enough?
White spirit vapours are definitely not the worst you could encounter in modelling, however I'd definitely make sure your workspace has good air flow as breathing in large quantities over time can be harmful. As I say however, don't stress about it too much, just don't get complacent with these sort of chemicals 👍
Can I use the blending method with white spirit to make things like gun smoke on aircraft cannons?
You can! It's a slightly different technique, as you first have to lay down a thin layer of white spirit on top of which you can apply oil paint and blend it gradually, but it's the same sort of idea. For that you will definitely want a satin or Matt varnish undercoat, as they allow for much easier blending
Leave the thinners to evaporate or leave the oil paint to evaporate for thirty minutes?
If you mean once they're applied to the model, that wait is for the thinners to evaporate 👍 the oil paint binder takes a couple of days to fully cure
@@ModellingWeekly Gotcha!
Has anyone ever used the Winsor & Newton water mixable oil paints?
what kind of foam do you use to plug the cockpit? I cant seem to find the right stuff
Hey! I'm not exactly sure what the type of foam is called, but I just searched 'grey packing foam' and the right stuff comes up 👍
@@ModellingWeekly Alright, thanks!
How long do you let the wash dry? And does it differ between a panel or dirty sludge wash?
I leave my washes to dry for about 24 hours to ensure the oil has fully cured. Regarding the sludge, what do you mean by this exactly?
@@ModellingWeekly Just a full body wash I guess
and thank you!
Hey, can I use oil wash over lacquer coat?
Yep!
Oka, never mind. It's all explained in prep section, lol. Good video man!
@@karolgolden231 no worries! 😄
Actually it Does matter, that you don't use enamel varnish with white spirits, the rest 2 types are OK
My bad - I was under the impression that if the varnish was cured it cannot be re-activated
white spirit doesn't work on oil paints. Try turpentine
@@ravenpen-orthyn9172 it does :) white spirit and turpentine have the same thinning properties, except white spirit is a safer, less flammable/toxic version of turps made from petroleum. It can be harmful to plastic/paint if you buy a really strong variety, but generic white spirit from hobby shops and paint stores is fine and works great!
'Varnish'...by which you mean, a 'clear' coat...
In modelling they generally refer to the same thing :)
About brushes, please never ever use your natural hair brushes! You will ruin them...
Not varnishing acrylic? Did I hear it right? Can't be. If you apply white spirit over acrylic directly then... Ruined again
@@alaingay good point on the natural hair brushes - they're very valuable! And yes, as I said in the video, if you were so inclined you could apply oils and white spirit directly onto all types of acrylic paints - only enamels and oils should have a negative response to this. If you've had a negative response to this in the past, feel free to describe the situation and I'll try to diagnose!