Oil Washes for BEGINNERS - How to Make & Use
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
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Thanks *INTO THE AM* for the sweet T-SHIRTS!
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for the cups you can buy bundles of like fifty clear measure cups they use for things like medicine or other crafts like resin off amazon for cheap. They come in all sizes from two inches tall to eight inches tall for when you need to do a whole table's worth of terrain
“And they don’t shrink in the wash!”
Challenge accepted.
@@Bopperkid I dry everything on high!
I showed the t-shirts to all my friends so we could make a big order and get free shipping to Canada. The designs are so cool we got a bunch of them. We are going to look gorgeous all around the table at our next DnD session. Great sponsor.
@@juliehamel8330 🔥
Oil painter here. I'll give you guys 4 big tips -
1st
Save your used thinner up in a little glass jar with a tight sealing lid. Once it's full, just let it sit and settle for a while. The pigments will settle out to the bottom. You can then pour the clean thinner off the top into a fresh jar and just reuse it. Depending on how cleanly you poured off the top in the first stage, you may want to do a second stage of settling but that shouldn't be a problem. Yes, you will eventually hit a point where that thinner can't really be used in places where you need a *really* clean thinner, but that will probably take you years and years. Especially at the scales a modeller is using. Even so, you can still use that old thinner up for tasks, like weathering washes, where purity isn't really needed. In short, there is basically no reason to ever actually get rid of used thinner.
2nd
You want to get yourself a bottle of liquin or Galkyd. These are essentially oil medium with a bunch of drying salts mixed in. Cut the oil paint you're going to use with like 10-20% of these before mixing into your thinner for you wash. This will greatly accelerate curing time. With the thin smooth layers used at modeling scales, the paint should be fully cured after a full day. If it's done correctly, you should be able to be fully confident that it's 100% fully rock hard cured after a few days.
3rd
Don't forget fire safety. Drying Oils have exothermic reactions. Your paint brush cleaning rag *will be* exactly the oily rag you where always warned about as a kid. So is that cardboard you used to leach the oil (more on that in a minute). Do not just wad up used paper towels with oil paint on them and throw them in the trash. Get yourself a fire proof container that you can use to safely store those used oily rags. You can then dispose of them safely once the oils in them have cured.
4th
I'm baffled by the notion I see going around in modelling communities where you want to leach the oil out of your oil paints on some cardboard. All this is going to do is cause under binding. It's no different from over-thinning acrylic paint with water and no medium. It will weaken the paint and cause it to fail. In fact, oil painters tend to *add* oil to their paint. Often, once the oil on a painting has cured, there are spots on a painting where there is still visible under binding and so it's a common practice to "oil out" a dry painting by putting another thin layer of thinned oil medium over the top. Note that this isn't the varnish layer. This oil is absorbed into any pigments which can hold more of it and this stabilizes the pigments and also helps the vibrancy. The varnish layer is applied after the painting is oiled out and that has cured.
This, so so much. Especially point three and four. I use oils for scale modeling and it seems that every hobby has their own total misconception of what to do with chemicals.
This deserves more attention, I would've brought up the liquin myself otherwise since it's basically magic. I'm glad you brought up the safety warning, I've noticed it's often overlooked in tabletop hobbies to treat solvents and aerosols without any precautions or gear. Also worth noting to others is that acrylic can't be put on top of oil paint, to stave off the inevitable flaky hoards of minis whose paint jobs are going to be ruined.
Well now I’m scared again 😱 great points.
@@paintingbyminions8360 Don't be scared. Just be safe.
Edit - Just to add. Dmitry Fesechko has a few very informative videos worth checking out. Also, check out james wappel.
@@arathduiliath9074 Honestly, I haven't ever had a problem with acrylic over oil just so long as -
A: You make sure that your oils are dry before applying acrylics. With thin layers and liquin, I usually wait 4 days just to be really sure.
B: You should varnish afterwards. Hell, I use an acrylic varnish. Haven't had an issue.
I will say that I would question whether or not this would be truly "archival" but, you know, we're talking about game pieces here. How long do we realistically expect a mini's paint job to last? I'm not too interested in pretending that I'm the van gogh of mini painting and that my work should last forever or that this is even possible with kids running around and playing games with me and each other.
A few years back, I had the experience of stripping and repainting a whole crapload of my dads battletech mechs from the late 80s-early 90s. My dad, brothers, and I played a *ton* of games with those. 30ish years seems to me to be a good run for a paint job and it also seems to me that nothing I paint is going to truly survive my nephews and nieces in the long run anyways.
A note on safe handling: if you're using oil paints for gaming miniatures, be conscious of what sorts of pigments are in your paints. Heavy metal poisoning tends to be a cumulative thing, and a quick varnish can serve to protect yourself, and others, from incidentally consuming trace amounts of toxic metal oxides whilst snacking during a game.
Honestly, varnishing minis is just a good idea in general.
Yeah, I always varnish everything that I expect to be a game piece. Not even from just a safety standpoint, but from the perspective of my wanting the paint job to outlast gameplay.
You know what I _really love_ about _this_ video? It's actually the _first_ one that I've seen, that actually _shows you how to mix_ the dang wash! Seriously, thank you so much for showing the most important, basic step everyone else seems to take for granted!
I second that comment! Truely a nice tutorial. I'll be using this when building model aircraft, and other equipment.
1 thing i absolutely love about your channel and content, is your realisation that alot of your viewers may not have access to the stores you do, and when you link products you include other countries and provide alternatives if the exact same thing isnt available. By far one of the best channels associated with this hobby!
I'm happy you made the disposal message. I used to sell these solvants when I worked at an art supply store and would always make my little "don't dump it in your sink" speach. Sometimes I could tell the person wasn't going to do it ptopery and it made me so angry to sell these products to irresponsible people.
Whats the place to put them in again? I know you shouldnt put it in the sink, but I still get confused with where to put it and the process to clean it up
@@wooperman6960 you keep it in a solvent resitant jar (i like a mason jar because it's easy) and you can re use it for a long time. The pigments fall to the bottom so the top stays clear. When it's so dirty that you can't use it anymore bring the jar to a center that collects this king of waste, same place than for old house paint, car batteries ... Look online for local procedures, they change from one country to the next.
@@wooperman6960 if you don't have a place locally that does hazardous waste disposal, you can also pour your extra onto something like a cookie sheet, put a small cardboard box in the middle, and leave it out in the sun. The liquid will wick up into the box, and the sunlight and airflow will evaporate it away pretty quickly.
Obviously this only works when it's not raining, and make sure you do it outside somewhere where there's not a risk of it catching on fire, because it's going to be pretty flammable
Mannn, this is the first time I've really, ACTUALLY considered using oil washes. I've been all about the acrylic/water-based ("I need this mess to DRY."), but there is something different about that oil wash.
Thank you for breaking it on down!
I could have sworn I've seen you use oil washes already!
I read this in the voice
Oil washes are one of those 'once I can upgrade the hobby space so it is not permanent chaos' to do items. Bonus props for being the first person who discussed oil washes who discussed what to do with the leftovers.
Haha! I was just talking about wanting to learn this on my live yesterday! Thank you for making a video covering it!😊
I’m so happy to see you’re watching BMC!! He has so many good pointers that you can use across all the scales
I have watched so many people do this, but really man, I love the way that you break it down and demonstrate. Your content has changed my life so much man, the way I hobby now is so deeply inspired by you. Thank you for this and all that you have done, you truly rock J. Rock ON!!!!!!!
Once you've collected the thinned paint in a jar you can actually let the paint sink to the bottom and reuse the thinner, it becomes good as new this way. I've been oil painting for years (mostly on canvas) and reusing my thinner, I'm only on my second bottle. I have a dirty jar I put the dirty thinner in and a clean-ish jar as intermediate which I often pour from directly as thinner and if this jar gets too filled up I just put it back in the original bottle because it's basically the same for practical use (once it has sat still for a few days).
Do you filter in any way or it just settles enough?
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial letting it settle is plenty, if it's not clean when you check, it just needs more time. Or if your jar is super dirty because it gets dirty quicker because you pour complete washes rather than just dirty paint thinner you might want an extra intermediate jar because I feel the last bits have a harder time settling at the bottom when the jar already has a lot of paint in it.
Can the contents of the "dirty" jar be stirred up and re-used as a wash? Or will the contents no longer be usable for painting once the pigment has settled?
@@alexanderspalding3541 technically it could at least for a little while, but if the jar isn't sealed properly (like some small cheap ones aren't) then it will evaporate rather quickly. It will evaporate regardless I think, leaving behind the paint and oils, tho and thus the wash will get thicker over time. Whenever I make washes I use small amounts like NJM
I do the same although I tend to filter mine infrequently using regular coffee filters. The type of thinner I use tend to go from colorless to slightly yellow this way but it’s not enough to actually affect the paintings.
I really like these types of videos. They’re super informational for new crafters such as myself. Until now, I thought that oil washes were just an expensive substitute for acrylic washes. Now knowing all of these things helps make informed decisions of how to make the piece you’re working on look the best it can be. Good work Jeremy! These help a ton
This is the video I was waiting for since you started using oil washes. I like the way you breakdown how you do it with out getting bogged down by details. Thank you for going boldly so the rest of us have a guide to follow.
Haven’t done an oil painting on canvas in years. The paints are still there and good. These would be a great way to put them to use again. Thanks for the demo.
nice choice of paint brushes there(Ones with the blue handles) . I'm almost 100% sure they are the same cheap (but surprisingly ok quality for the cost) ones I use on my terrain. Never commented on one of you videos before but just wanted to say I love your work and I have learned so much from watching you for years now. You're a true inspiration
This video genuinely helped me. My ability to finish models and "slay the grey" has greatly improved since watching this. Thank you .
As a trad oil painter, rags, and paper towels that has spirits or turpentine can sometimes catch fire if in a hot area or in direct sunlight. I use an old metal container to store my rags, and keep it in a cool dark closet when I'm not using it!
I know I’m a bit late to the game on this. I’ve watched this vid maybe 5 times now. Just got home from the shop with a few oil paints to try this out on my first bits of 3D printed scatter for my dnd game. Thank you Jeremy for all your tutorials I’ve watched over the years, they are massively informative and inspirational and for a long time I’ve watched but not really done anything. That’s changing now though.
Also oil washes are a total game changer. Wow what a difference it makes. Honestly if there is anyone out there reading this. Give them a try, super easy and fun.
Thanks Jeremy. I've been painting alot more lately since I got my 3D printer and your painting tips have really inspired me and help me create better models with more realism and depth. I've stayed away from oils mostly because I hate the smells, the clean up and the waste disposal. After watching this tho, I might give it a try as I'm not happy with the results from my acrylic washes. Going to check out the shirts now, thanks again.
A big thank for making this video. I was really uncertain as to what I needed to use to remove the paint. This helped me alot.
Literally just bought some Burnt Umber, white spirit, and brush cleaner yesterday. So this is coming out a the perfect time
Oil paints are an amazing resource, whether you're a try-hard display painter, or a speed painter just looking to bang out loads of models for the tabletop, they can definitely be a big help.
Another great, must have tutorial!! I do not make terrain, but this will help out greatly in a few upcoming projects that I have.
I'm late but great video as you've done what no others I've watched have done. And that's actually explain how to make an oil wash and that is amazing,! Thank you
Great introductory video. You inspired me to try out making washes myself, but now I have to try oil washes as well.
Great video! Marcos videos are what got me to try oil washes too. This video really clarified some things I was still unsure about. Like you can gloss varnish before your oil washes but you don’t have to, and you can let the paint completely dry before removing the excess but you don’t have to.
Great timing Jeremy. I tried an oil wash the first time on my last project and it didn't go well. I wasn't feeling very confident about them, but this video makes me feel like it's not a big deal. Thanks for all you do. Much love.
Loved this video; it´s answered many questions i wondered about oils... Thanks!
Oil washes are one of those things that I've yet to dive in to, but I know as soon as I do I'll never look back. The results definitely look fantastic with them!
What a helpful video! I've been looking to test the oily waters for a while and this inspired me to give it a go on my next project. Thanks for the tips and demo man!
Thank you. I am now less scared to give it a go 👍👍👍
I have had no good luck working with oils yet, but I'm remaining open minded. Thanks for giving a little boost and walkthrough.
Excellent video! Great explanation and demonstration of oil washes. Top notch content my dude.
I’ve been using oil washes on my minis for a while now and have learned a few things through the trials and, albeit minimal, tribulations. The amount that you thin your washes will affect how they flow, but it will also affect drying times. I recently made a wash of about 10:1 thinner to paint and within 8 hours, I did end up having some staining on white armor. Wiping the paint towards your shadows will certainly give you a nice gradient if you have gone for a heavy wash. Using a clean sponge surface with a bit of spirits really helps with efficient cleanup time, if you’re looking to batch paint or something. Once the sponge becomes “dirtied” with pigment, you end up just sort of pushing it around. I’ve been on a social media campaign of sharing my minis doused with oil paints, basically dunked, and then the beautiful gradients and relief shading that it creates. Thanks for sharing the oil wash love to the greater community!
Great video man. Definitely gave me a lot of confidence to try and attempt some washes. Appreciate you making this.
Thanks for doing this one. I really needed to learn how to do this properly.
For larger scale pieces (busts or larger scale 3d printed "statues") I use acrylic to basecoat and drybrush and oils to wash and I often wash, wipe off excess (either wet or once dry, depending on the look), drybrush or layer again with acrylics then wash again with oils and this is sometimes repeated several times. I do make sure things are bone dry before going from oil to acrylic or back again. Not had any problems at all (no varnishes in between either) but the oil can stain the acrylic paint if not sealed. Not sure if this would affect the wear on a gaming piece, but for something that sits on a shelf, it's fine.
Been looking at oil washes for such a long time without actually getting around to trying them. This video really did give me everything I need to get started. Guess I know what next months hobby budget's getting spent on!
Thanks for sharing this. I have heard great things about oil washes for costuming, but never thought to use it for miniatures. I am going to have to pick some up now.
Awesome video, thank you for all the info. Safe to say oil paint supplies will be on my soon to buy list!
As a long time plastic model aircraft builder, I always put a gloss varnish over the paint job and then do the weathering with oil washes. It just flows so much nicer.
The series on the paint actually refers to a pricing system based on the rarity of the pigments in the paint. That doesn't mean that the pigments in lower series are lower quality, just that the higher series contain pigments that are harder to acquire. A good example of a low series pigment is PR101 (Pigment Red 101), which is synthetic iron oxide. It'll typically sell much cheaper than, for instance, a paint made from PB72 -- cobalt blue.
Great. I had been wondering about this. Thank you!
Thanks! Really helpful tutorial and tips!
Great video, definitely going to give this a try. Thanks Jeremy.
Dude. Thank you for making this video. I haven’t really found another one specifically for our hobby that was useful to me before
Love oil washes, so satisfying to work with
Thank you for this guide. I was hesitant about oil wash but after your video I"m gonna use that on my titan :)
Great tutorial. Can you do a side by side comparison between oil and water based washes and how they look on different mediums? (aka stone or wood textures)
The best of both worlds and something I have not seen anyone talk about is water mixable oil paints. Get all the benefits of oils without all the smell and chemicals of solvents.
Awesome video man! Always wanted to try oil washes. Makes me want to get back into the hobby after a few years off
I really like the seamless transitions from color to color that the oil washes do. Great vid btw I'm def considering using oil washes to up my painting game 👍
It gives a very impressionistic or watercolor effect to the models.
I think I was probably a bit nervous about the idea of trying oil washes but this video has really helped take away any nerves, I think I might give it a go
I recently started experimenting with oil paints and I have to say it's hard to go back to acrylics for anything other than base-coating.
Washes are 10 times better in all regards. But you can also easily replicate wet-blends and glazes and highlight things with a few brush strokes. It is amazing.
Good timing, just what I need.
great vid, you can also filter out the pigments from your mineral spirts and use your solvent/thinner again
Amazing video!!! I love oil washes and they have had the same impact on my painting. I liked how you say you don't need to varnish pre oil like other people do which is so unnecessary and misleading unless you're trying to change the finish. In my experience, I don't need to varnish before putting acrylic on top of oil. The oil just needs to dry first which can take a few days. Acrylics behave weird on top of the wet oils. I think the mineral spirits dry within an hour or so but the oils themselves don't dry for a few days which is why you can wipe them off the next day.
My wife got me using gamsol for thinning oils. Since she does oil painting (on canvas) that's what I did. Low odor and easy to use and reasonably priced.
Was going to do a live stream last night and was going to use oil wash for the first time. I'm looking forward to using them
I got some small stainless steel cups on amazon and they work wonders for oil washes, easy to clean and saves on waste.
Love seeing the shout out for other creators. Thanks for being such a good dude
I really appreciate this approach
a cool trick if you want realistic Rust FX, is to do your oil wash, then before it is dry, apply a rust colored acrylic paint wherever you'd like your rust effect. because the water based acrylic reacts with the oil, it sort of coagulates, creating a cool organic rust effect.
Great vid, I bought some oil paints qnd thinner a few months ago and havent used them yet. I'll have to sit down soon and give them a try
Man, oil washes are life changing especially on terrain. I really love just really putting it on heavy onto the roofs of buildings and letting it run naturally down the walls and pool on other surfaces. I don’t even clean it off after, just leave it to dry. It creates such a fantastic weathered water damage/grime buildup look that’s both evident enough to bring a lot of depth to the piece, but subtle enough that you don’t have these dark streaky lines screaming at you when you look at the piece.
I'd love to see photos of those buildings and how they turned out with the method you described
Ok, I'm convinced. I'll give them a try. I grabbed 6 colours I figure should work for grime type effects and some mineral spirits (seems to be odourless turpentine here in ZA) and some brushes. Here's to learning new things!
Reusing lids! That is my pallet every time I craft. I think I’m going to pick up some oils this weekend.
This is exactly what ive been looking for. Im starting to paint battletech minis and i really want this nice grungy, dirty look for them and i think this will be perfect!
Really great video, extremely informative. I plan to use this technique to wash my spaceship miniatures.
The shirt montage just got me down. Right there, haha. After so many years, you still manage to hit the right spot 🔥
I'd never even consider using oil paints as a replacement to washes as we know them. Thank you for sharing your experience, from why to use cardboard to when it's best to wipe off.
P.S. Speaking of wiping off, that moment with the yellow tile - it's just like from the old TV ads about household cleaning agents. Brilliant 💎
Right on time for some terrain I have to finish!
I'm new to models and really been trying to figure out these washes to make armour pop, thanks for advice this really helped
Dude thank you! This was a great help..
Neat I should use this for for both my miniature terrain and my armor projects.
thank you for these awesome videos, I subscribed
I dipped my toe into oil washes to do tau panel lines recently. My god what a wonderful experience. I can't recommend it highly enough.
I keep my homemade oil washes in bell jars. Absolutely great on recent Transformers figures that have massive amounts of detail all painted a single color.
This is awesome! Definitely going to try to make some washes for my miniatures 🙂
Good stuff. There's lots of YT videos describing methods of depicting rust streaking using oils on acrylic. Some of the best are by railway modellers working on rolling stock and scenery.
Wow, Jeremy. I have to say, I was not expecting this to be as encouraging as it was. I watched it because I always pay attention to what you have to say about crafting. But I really did not expect to come away with any sort of desire to really do anything with oils. But man, you have convinced me. That looks gorgeous! Especially wiping off after dry. That almost eliminates the need for any sort of dry brush after the wash. Good job. As soon as Christmas is over (and I have $$ again for crafting) I will grab a few colors and start playing with them. I assume no ill reactions with any of the other stuff we use like foam core or insulation foam?
Nah, it's safe on all your crafts.
I've fallen into the trap of being afraid of new materials so many times! Thank you for demystifying oils for me 😍 just ordered!
Just got oil paints and mineral spirits recently but haven't tried them yet! Perfect timing
I am going to finally give this a try. I have been wanting to give it a shot. Wyloch's latest video talked so highly about it. I have to give it a try. Wish me luck.
A very helpful video, thanks.
That was a great lesson. I’ve got some 3D printed terrain that is perfect for this.
this is good.... Thank you 😊
First thing:
This was great. I live in a third-floor apartment. I have a porch, but no garage, so I built as much terrain as I could over the summer (buildings, scatter terrain, spaceships) so I could spray prime them outside. I’ve watched you use oil washes before and liked the results, so I wanted to give them a shot. This video came out just at the right time.
Second thing:
Yes, I did think “that shirt is sick”. And now I know where you got it. And will buy it.
just have in your mind that if you spray out oil washes also need to be done with a lot of fresh air as the fumes from white spirit are very very bad too
I love oil washes! Though I use them on my mechanical models and not minis, the technique is still the same. A great way to get an effective but extremely lazy weather job is to do a "gunk" wash. It's the same concept but I thin the paint substantially less and wipe off less from the flat surfaces. I'll also use a matte clear coat before oils, which will then darken and give the whole kit a "gubby" "gunked up" appearance.
After I found out about oil paints its a staple in my painting!
Yeah, I've only tried to do a pin wash on my first tank, and you're right, the thinner is the most difficult to figure out. I think I used Iso alcohol when I did it but I'm sure a better choice would have worked better.
When you get to the point about applying the oil washes onto acrylics easily without needing a protective varnish, I got really jazzed. I did not know that.
I'm trying my first oil wash today so I'm rewatching this XD
I am gonna use Gamsol for it. It's supposed to be one of the "safer" options compared to the harsher thinners.
I wanted to be an oil painter back in the day so I have a LOT of oil painting stuff haha.
good vid keep up the good vid i going use the on layout
Very cool! Firstly, speaking of cool shirts, I FINALLY got my Black Magic Craft shirt in the mail yesterday! Took a bit for some reason (silly mail system), lol. Wearing it for tonight's online game to show off. For the cups, you can actually get small "condiment" clear containers at the Dollarstore/Dollarama which are even smaller than those shot glasses. They also come with lids! They're great for mixing small amounts of resin (like the syringe Dollarama stuff), and you can use the lids to mix paints on like a palette! Overall, an excellent intro video, thanks for that! Maybe i'll try my hand at them fancy oil washes when I build some terrain in the next little while!
oh yeah, I'm gonna try that
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
This is a GREAT LEARNER Video! I needed to know more! THANKS, OH and if you go to a Dollar Store or what ever there called, They sometimes have an area that is for Partys Or Weddings, They have SMALLER Clear Plastic Cups, I got a bunch of them!! THANKS FOR THE NEW WASH VIDEO! I NEEDED SOMETHING NEW! Happy Thanks Giving!!!
Mixing thinned oils is VERY splashy, that’s why I use the bigger cups. If I’m just mixing a small amount for a mini I’ll use those tiny disposable shot glasses though.
Since this is the latest video I'm commenting this here, but since a few of your videos have mentioned being able to make D&D fun for kids, I think it would be a great idea to try and make some sort of dungeon/scatter terrain/something like a chest the players can interact with to get treasure out of and build it all or mostly out of legos and show people how you did it.
Thank you - I guess yours was the "kick in the back" I needed. After like 35+ years in mini painting, this was new and somewhat scary for me. Not any longer :-) thanks to you!
I use wood stain for a similar effect on large terrain pieces. Slather it on, wipe it off the surface with a rag and good to go.