You often come across people who are very talented in what they do, and often come across people who are generous in sharing their knowledge, but not everyone is both very talented and very generous in sharing that knowledge, so thank you very much for these videos.
I've watched dozens of your videos, and my new favorite line is "Oil paints are all about the wipey. Lots and lots of wipey wipey wipey." Thank you so much for putting out such informative but straightforward content!
Thanks again for sharing ! If you like oils, you should try Abteilung range. They are designed for miniature painting (less seed oil and adapted color range like a skin tones pack). I use them for oil washes but I just received my flesh tones pack because I wanted to give a try. Your video came at a wonderful moment 😉
@@VinceVenturella Have you tried using true metallic metals in oils? I've been gearing up to start with oils and I'd love to see a tutorial on how the TMMs work out with things like painting armor.
Have read a lot of the comments made here about oils and how "fearful" some painters are. The main concern seems drying time, answer is get a food dehydrator and your oils that needed 48 hours plus to dry now only need about 8 to 12. You can also cure your acrylics in one. A food dehydrator is one appliance that goes up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, safe for plastics, metal and resin figures or any small hobbies needing faster drying. Thank you Vince for your show and tell about oils. I have used them since the 70's and my oil tubes are still good. Back in the day your paint choices were 4: Testors enamels, Humbrol enamels, Railroad model paints and Oils. Art tube acrylics were thin and weepy ( the ones I found) and took many layers to get a good red. Acrylics have come along way and I like them for base coating faces, animals, leather items and then oils on top. My favorite "cheating" method is that I collect reference faces from magazines. Must have good natural color, have good highlights and shadows. Try to get hands also. Keep this organized in a binder and sooner or later a face on a figure will match your binder, a nice crutch. Cheers
I've been looking forward to this video for weeks! Wappel has gotten me incredibly excited about painting with oils, and I couldn't wait to see how you used them here too.
Great Video as always Vince, thank you! It might just be TH-cam algorithms but I'm starting to notice a real resurgence of interest in using oils for miniature painting - it's great to see!!
Vince. Seriously. This is the best video you’ve done. I am dabbling in the oils and this is very very good. I like James, but this is easier to follow and you hit so many questions I had. Unbelievable. Get out of my head you devil. Liking and sharing.
Vince, your the best teacher….. so good… I like all the Details on how to… with oils…. Skin tones you make look easy..! 😮🤠🙀👍🇺🇸 from Aiken South Carolina.
A glazed neutral tone tile or a pane of glass with a neutral colored paper glued to the back make for a great pallete .pick a size that will fit in a gallon ziplock and save those paints that don't suffer from a short drying time.
Yes indeed, I was showing the cardboard trick here, but if you watch some upcoming oil videos, you will see my normal palette which is a large neutral colored marble tile.
Well, I don't think I will be painting Ghaz any time soon, but I do have plenty of orks around the space, so I am sure I could find something, I will add it to the list.
Another great video Vince! About using varnish as a save point I can't help but remember one of the early text only BBS games that said, "Remember player to save early and save often." Has a whole new meaning now. Thanks for sharing and stay safe!
I enjoyed this so much Vince! I was giggling throughout with the moob painting! This poor guy looks like he needs to see a dermatologist and a liver specialist. He's looks jaundiced to me! But, I did learn, and I always remember more when the teaching is done with a sense of humor! Thank you! Lisa
I've watched this video probably 5 times now. It's so satisfying to work with oil paints. I've only done it once so far for a wooden barrel but it is a lot of fun!
Revisiting this video as I recently bought set of oil paints. I'm yet to paint a big model, but I did a lot of work in short amount of time on a cape. I have to say that I am impressed. I might've bought too bright Cadmium Red, but will what it should. I love how easily they blend. Thanks again for this tutorial!
Starts using oil paints and immediately starts channeling Bob Ross; "just putting them where they seem they'll be fun" - I love it ^^ Also, reverse drybrusing does seem like a fun way to paint
You had me at whipey lol. Soonish I want to dabble into oils. Perfect video, thanks. I'm close to finishing my 1st bust from Robot Rocket Miniatures. I used all acrylic and for a novice I think its turning out good, I'll have to throw it out on the forum when finished. Been getting buzz from the other forums on progress pics. Always a pleasure being a subscriber to your channel!
This has been such a useful video, huge thanks! Hoping to see more videos on oils from you as you have a great way of explaining things so they're easy to understand. Cheers!
Thank you so much for going into the details and all this amazing footage of blending work! That was what I was looking for, so motivating. I'm going to try this on some bootleg figures with lousy paintjob and try painting my own clay figures. Subbed. Thanks!
That base skin, painted with an airbrush, before applying any ink at all, it's already better than any "final product" I have ever achieved... Encouraging to think all there is to learn ahead! ... If you think about it with the right mindset...
I mean - I always knew that large scale models (fleshy bits) generally are painted using oils - but *** mind blown *** Holy crap! ... I'm almost tempted - no I'm not actually going to do it - to throw all my hundreds and hundreds of acrylics in the trash and start over new ... lol
You can use a 4 X 6 index card placed inside of a disposable plastic sandwich as a small pallet. When the paint is done, you remove and re-use the index card in the next sandwich bag.
Fantastic vid Vince, I've been fascinated by oil paintings ever since I went to the Guild Hall art gallery a few years ago, and here's me no idea I could use it with my mini's! If your ever in London you should visit it, it's a bit of a hidden gem and free!
Glad you enjoyed it and I will have to check that out (this year aside), I am generally in London at least 3 times a year. Guild Hall art gallery, what part of town is it in?
@@VinceVenturella It's at the centre of 'The City of London' which is a sort of self governing city state in a square mile right in the centre of London. Make sure you go downstairs as when they were building the foundations of the new gallery (the old one was destroyed by German bombing) they found a Roman Amphitheatre!
Great video, but it's odd; I've been painting canvases for decades and I use synthetic brushes for acrylics and sable for oils! On minis I only use sable, except for dry brushing.
Yeah, Windsor and Newton was made with oil painting in mind. That said, I expect that this advice is because you would have to have a dedicated sable brush for oils, as cleaning the white spirits out of it so it could work in water would be troublesome.
I have to agree here, I've been using sable brushes with my oils for years now, they still look like new. It will depend on exactly how you work with the oil paints I guess, but there is no fundamental incompatibility.
Yes, it's funny, in this one I talk about the synthetics and the use for Oils, I have another video coming soon and I talk about the idea of dedicated sables for oil paints, I have a set that are just for oils. BUt I wanted to start here.
Thank you for a great tutorial, please do more videos on using oil paints for miniature painting. I know this will seem like a silly question, when you talked about varnishing after the oil paint was dry, are you using the same varnish that you use for acrylic paint? Thanks again for the great tutorial, keep them comming!
More are coming, I am using a lot of oil painting recently. FOr varnish, I am using a 50/50 mix of Satin and AK Ultra Matte varnish (same as the Acrylic painting).
An old oil painter trick is to set your figure under an incandescent bulb, 100 watt. The heat will dry the paint and it will be matt. Don't do this with plastic figures, you and your figure will be sad.
Wow amazing. When you started slathering on that white paint to his nipples I got nervous for a moment you weren't going to be able to bring it back but then you did! I'd particularly love to see how you did that tree branch he's holding. I like how I do wood but I don't get it nearly as good as you, yours has such a great variety of color to it. I think I see inktense wood in the more yellowy bits but even if that's true getting it so rich is a lot harder said than done. Would also love to see how you did the skull on the end of his club. I've been doing similar stuff to a lot of people to get bone color but the skull on the end of his club looks so much more like old skulls that have been sitting out in the forest and are picked clean. Fantastic work as always~!
@@VinceVenturella there was such variety in that piece that you just did but I'll give that video another watch and maybe post a comment when I do! Thanks again
Hello Vince, thank you for yet another informative and inspiring video! I just tried oil paints for the first time and am loving the results! A few questions I couldn't find covered anywhere online. 1. Since it can take over a day. How can I know when oil paint is dry/cured? Is it just a matter of time or are there any visual/tactile hints that it has finished curing? 2. How long do you wait before spray varnishing oil paint? 3. Do you varnish oil paint before adding additional layers of acrylic paint?
1) It's just a sense of time based on the thickness, but 48 hours with this kind of thinned oil paint is always safe. 2) Until it's dry, so basically 24-48 hours. 3) Yes, in general I will always varnish before I add additional acrylic layers. You don't have to if it's completely cured, but I like to just to even out the finish.
You should really try water-miscible oils. Holbein duo aqua, when used with water only, will dry to a nice matte finish. They remain workable for about 24 hours, so you still get the advantages of slow-drying, and the painting process is just the same. Note I’m not saying you yourself should change anything, your clearly confortable painting with classic oils, but I feel presenting them would really help hobbyists getting into oils. It’s nice to know you can just use water and your same old brushes, without having to deal with toxic thinner.
Hey Philip, if you look through the rest of the Hobby Cheating series, you'll find a whole bunch of deep dive videos just like this one. I seem to remember Vince covering wood several times, the "S75 Inktense Wood" joke will live forever in my memory. But in any case, I can recommend working your way through all of the videos, each one is a gem.
Definitely let your oils dry. Given how thin the layers on minis might be a day or two MIGHT be enough. More if you’ve used white. But, on canvas or board, oil paint takes months to fully cure. While they do they actually contract. Putting acrylic on top of oil is typically not done because of this. The acrylic can seal the oil and as the oil cures it can actually break up and crack the acrylic. Painters typically say oil on top of acrylic, fine... other way around... not fine. Also, there are water mixable oil paints available from W&N that work and feel like oils, have a longer drying time, but can be thinned and cleaned with water, no chemicals needed.
Lots of people paint acrylic on top of oils. Normally they seal first with a varnish. I know people who use both acrylic and lacquer based varnish. Due to the size of the paint area and thinness of the layers the usual 2d oil painting rules don’t seem to apply quite the same.
Yes, I generally give it 24-48 hours, between the thinness and the the white spirits, I've never had an issue with the varnish over top. But it's good to make sure it's dry before you varnish (or at least most of the way there). :)
I know this is a three year old video so maybe you’ve experimented already but you should give water soluble oils a try. No solvents to deal with. Thin with water, clean with soap and water. All the benefits of oils and a slightly shorter drying time.
Thanks for another amazing video Vince! Can you tell me which brands do you recommend for brushes when working with oils? which ones are yours? Also, what about the mineral spirits? is the mona lisa better? Sometimes they tend to have a strong smell, i dont know about different brands, here in my country is kind of limited the selection, but any guide can help me a lot. Thanks again! There is a brand called Abteilung 502, that are special oil paints made for miniatures and kits, that even dry faster i believe, do you now about them? Would be great if you would do a review :) Thanks again
Any kind of synthetic brushes will work, I also have a few sable brushes I use JUST for this purpose. As to White Spirits, the Mona Lisa or the Gamblin are what I would recommend. The Abteilung 502 are good for sure, they are meant specifically for miniatures and will serve you well.
I was kinda disappointed the first time I painted a cloak with oil, cause the result seemed very meh, a couple of days later when the extreme shinyness dulled down a bit, it looked great, still needs a satin or matte varnish but I'll definitely going to use that again for space marine captain cloaks and for sm banners, maybe even normal shading on powerarmor
Nice effect, but I'm afraid of white spirit nonetheless, in fact it's white spirit. I did a little research on the painters' websites and they recommend Eco Solvent by Renesans. I have to check in soon, apparently no harm to health and no smell. Apparently, the only problem is the ability to dissolve the varnish on the brush, so you don't know how you will be at the model.
I use either Mona Lisa or Gamsol, and in this case, it's such a small amount, I don't think its posing much risk, I mean, we are talking a few drops in the bottom of a ramican, not near the amount you use for tradtitional oil painting, but I am sure there are options out there.
@@VinceVenturella It's not about the brand. I have read that the so-called ECO solvents do not sensitize, are odorless and do not affect health like normal solvents for oil paints. I live in a small apartment with my wife and little kid and I don't want to use the wrong hemi close to my child. I agree 100%, it's good that we have some options :D besides, I like the idea and the painting very much, it's nice to watch. A very nice option with oil paints, if someone does not have an airbrush and wants to have beautiful toned effects.
im just about to venture into oils after near 30 years with acrylics, looks so wrong just splodging colours on and blending on the mini, you do great helpful videos tho so thank you
The first models I ever painted was a unit of ultramarines but all I had was testors paints. They took so long to paint because of the same reason oils take forever, drying. I never knew about ceiling layers down with varnish. And I definitely didn't have a Zen relaxed experience. I'm really tempted to go drop 5 Franklins at my local art supply store on some oils now that I have seem what is possible. After watching what you did with skin tones, with this wonderful troll. I wonder do you ever use oils on smaller 28 mm models? Or smaller?
Hey Vince! I wanted to say thanks for all of the information that you pass along. Personally you have really been a wealth of knowledge to the point that I am finally working on the models I have been collecting and building over the years and have deiced to jump into the deep end and incorporate oils into this initial endeavor because - like you say and I have finally accepted and internalized - you cant ruin a model. I have been struggling with oils and because I think my touch is too heavy, how much pressure are you exerting on the oils, 2 hairs and some air or something else? Thank you so much again!
Thanks Vince - your efforts have moved the needle of mini painting knowledge forward instrumentally. A big Q - why ever paint in acrylics instead of oils?
Sure, the answer is because it's the right tool for the job. The acrylics are good for small detail and fine control. For example, when I am painting eyes or a tattoo, this is where acrylic paint works well.
I actually varnish with a 50/50 mix of Satin Varnish from Vallejo and AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish. I find it gives the right mix of durability and is still completely matte.
It doesn't really work great for detail of freehand (like thin lines and the like, because the rough nature of how it applies), that being said, if you are doing a freehand image, it can be great for items like smoothing out actual full images liek we did on the knights.
@@rossomachin I just went and read the article, I like the way he lays it out, very familiar to many of the techniques I am using with my oil paints, especialy in later phases.
This was a revelation for me. Atm I'm just printing and building a big winged creature and I've been giving a lot of thought as to how I was going to paint him and thanks to this video I now know. One question Vince, what type of varnish goes on first? Acrylic or enamel? I don't remember hearing you say
Vince just found this video and I am excited to start using oils. Do you have a video that shows how you got the mini to the stage before you start using the oils? From doing the zenithal and base coats.
It was just a zenithal with one coat of elf flesh lightly glazed through an airbrush, so not much prep really. The key with an acrylic undercoat is just a mid-tone version of whatever the oils will be on top, not necessary, but can make your life easier in the long run.
Hi Vince! I know this is an older video but I’m wanting to explore oil paints. When it comes to minis how strictly don you follow the various oil paint rules like “fat over lean”, “thick over thin” etc? And for example knowing it’s fully cured before varnishing?
I would say you can use many of those rules, I am going to have more videos coming soon, but it's not as important, you can bend them some - except the cured before varnishing. That you must absolutely do.
@@VinceVenturella thanks so much for the reply! Yeah I’m quite worried about these oil “painting” rules, but I guess the best thing is to try. I’d certainly love to see more videos on oils! Especially the actual painting with them parts (as opposed to weathering and washes).
Great video Vince. I have never used oils and a bit hesitant to try due to needing to learn how to mix, clean, and apply it all it's forms like acrylic. I am still learning a lot about acrylic and mixing colors. Do you reference color mix charts for a particular color?
They are a totally different thing and do require a new learning curve, so I certainly get it. As to color mixing, I don't really use a mixing chart, but that just comes from experience, it's certainly a good tool when you start out.
Awesome stuff I am really enjoying your series on oil painting! Is an color base coat always necessary for working with oils? I understand that some of the oil colors are transparent, is this why we can’t just apply them over a primed model?
It's not necessary, it can just make things a little easier or slightly help set an undertone. I do it for large areas, but it's not essential, you just have to be careful with your thinning.
You often come across people who are very talented in what they do, and often come across people who are generous in sharing their knowledge, but not everyone is both very talented and very generous in sharing that knowledge, so thank you very much for these videos.
Well thank you, I am always happy to help. :)
I've watched dozens of your videos, and my new favorite line is "Oil paints are all about the wipey. Lots and lots of wipey wipey wipey." Thank you so much for putting out such informative but straightforward content!
Thank you, and always keep up the wipey. :)
Thanks again for sharing ! If you like oils, you should try Abteilung range. They are designed for miniature painting (less seed oil and adapted color range like a skin tones pack). I use them for oil washes but I just received my flesh tones pack because I wanted to give a try. Your video came at a wonderful moment 😉
Yep, they are on my list to give them a try, I was going to pick them up at Adepticon, but...you know. No Adepticon.
@@VinceVenturella Have you tried using true metallic metals in oils? I've been gearing up to start with oils and I'd love to see a tutorial on how the TMMs work out with things like painting armor.
Vince, this is the SINGLE BEST video I've seen anywhere on this subject - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Have read a lot of the comments made here about oils and how "fearful" some painters are. The main concern seems drying time, answer is get a food dehydrator and your oils that needed 48 hours plus to dry now only need about 8 to 12. You can also cure your acrylics in one. A food dehydrator is one appliance that goes up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, safe for plastics, metal and resin figures or any small hobbies needing faster drying. Thank you Vince for your show and tell about oils. I have used them since the 70's and my oil tubes are still good. Back in the day your paint choices were 4: Testors enamels, Humbrol enamels, Railroad model paints and Oils. Art tube acrylics were thin and weepy ( the ones I found) and took many layers to get a good red. Acrylics have come along way and I like them for base coating faces, animals, leather items and then oils on top. My favorite "cheating" method is that I collect reference faces from magazines. Must have good natural color, have good highlights and shadows. Try to get hands also. Keep this organized in a binder and sooner or later a face on a figure will match your binder, a nice crutch. Cheers
I've been looking forward to this video for weeks! Wappel has gotten me incredibly excited about painting with oils, and I couldn't wait to see how you used them here too.
Hope you enjoy it! :)
What kind of varnish do you use over the acrylics before the oil paint application? Do you varnish over the oils, amd with what Vince?
so i would like to say thank you. you have actually given me the confidence to try oils. cheers.
Fantastic! They are really fun. :)
Great Video as always Vince, thank you! It might just be TH-cam algorithms but I'm starting to notice a real resurgence of interest in using oils for miniature painting - it's great to see!!
I agree, I think we are all just tired of taking a while to get smooth blends. ;)
"The skin is pretty flat"
Looks more dynamic then any skin iv ever painted
I appreciate that. I am always on the hunt for upping my skin game.
Vince, another informative vid. I have started using oils and found it fit my style of figure painting. I feel I achieve a better result now
Yes, I've just found it so relaxing and rewarding to integrate more oils into my painting.
Vince. Seriously. This is the best video you’ve done. I am dabbling in the oils and this is very very good. I like James, but this is easier to follow and you hit so many questions I had. Unbelievable. Get out of my head you devil.
Liking and sharing.
Glad it was helpful! :) - This one was fun, there will be more coming in the future.
Wow! Just amazingly informative and encouraging. I’m going to give it a shot. Thank you 😊
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Vince, your the best teacher….. so good… I like all the Details on how to… with oils…. Skin tones you make look easy..! 😮🤠🙀👍🇺🇸
from Aiken South Carolina.
Always happy to help. :)
Genuinely you de-mystified oils. Excellent (and humorous) presentation. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
A glazed neutral tone tile or a pane of glass with a neutral colored paper glued to the back make for a great pallete .pick a size that will fit in a gallon ziplock and save those paints that don't suffer from a short drying time.
Yes indeed, I was showing the cardboard trick here, but if you watch some upcoming oil videos, you will see my normal palette which is a large neutral colored marble tile.
I'd love to see you do this with an Ork character. Ghaz skin with oils tutorial? 😁
Well, I don't think I will be painting Ghaz any time soon, but I do have plenty of orks around the space, so I am sure I could find something, I will add it to the list.
Ghaz or no Ghaz, I’d just love to see you do this with greens before I try it. Lol. Thanks for adding it to the list. I look forward to the vid!
Another great video Vince! About using varnish as a save point I can't help but remember one of the early text only BBS games that said, "Remember player to save early and save often." Has a whole new meaning now. Thanks for sharing and stay safe!
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
I enjoyed this so much Vince! I was giggling throughout with the moob painting! This poor guy looks like he needs to see a dermatologist and a liver specialist. He's looks jaundiced to me!
But, I did learn, and I always remember more when the teaching is done with a sense of humor!
Thank you!
Lisa
Wonderful, always happy to help. :)
I've watched this video probably 5 times now. It's so satisfying to work with oil paints. I've only done it once so far for a wooden barrel but it is a lot of fun!
Yep, it's very fun for sure.
That is poetry given shape. Will have to try it some day.
You should! It's honestly so much fun.
This so inspired me to start trying oil paints. He’s like the more aggressive defiant Bob Ross of the miniature world.
This is one of the nicer things anyone has ever said about me. ;)
YES! SO MUCH YES! *grabs cup of tea and gets comfortable*
Hope you enjoyed. :)
recently started using oils, and they are so much fun to use, especially on large areas like cloaks and skin.
Yep, it's just so relaxing and fun. :)
When I use a plate like that, or a little container of wash, I use a bit of blue tac to stop it moving around on my desk.
Good call. :)
Revisiting this video as I recently bought set of oil paints. I'm yet to paint a big model, but I did a lot of work in short amount of time on a cape. I have to say that I am impressed. I might've bought too bright Cadmium Red, but will what it should. I love how easily they blend. Thanks again for this tutorial!
Glad it was helpful!
Starts using oil paints and immediately starts channeling Bob Ross; "just putting them where they seem they'll be fun" - I love it ^^
Also, reverse drybrusing does seem like a fun way to paint
It's so much fun and so relaxing. :)
Awesome vid, Vince. Please do tons more of this. It's like a whole new untapped world HC can explore! Also that free hand is really well done.
More to come for sure.
Great video. Please people, listen to Vince and do not forget to smooth your moob shadow. Thanks in advance.
It's the most important part. ;)
I , for one, would love to see this on 28mm miniatures. I was literally thinking about getting better skin tones today and this showed up in my feed.
Well, you won't have to wait too long. ;)
Fantastic video.😀😀👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you 🤗
It may be because I haven't watched that many video's yet, but hearing Vince say "homeboy" at 15:55 made me laugh out loud.
No, that's totally fair, me saying homeboy is one of the funnier things around. ;)
Been wanting to add oils to my arsenal for some time now. Thanks for explaining it so a NEWB can follow.
No problem 👍
You had me at whipey lol. Soonish I want to dabble into oils. Perfect video, thanks. I'm close to finishing my 1st bust from Robot Rocket Miniatures. I used all acrylic and for a novice I think its turning out good, I'll have to throw it out on the forum when finished. Been getting buzz from the other forums on progress pics. Always a pleasure being a subscriber to your channel!
Excellent, happy to help as always and can't wait to see the bust.
This has been such a useful video, huge thanks! Hoping to see more videos on oils from you as you have a great way of explaining things so they're easy to understand. Cheers!
Awesome! There are a few more on the channel right now and more coming in the future for sure.
Thank you so much for going into the details and all this amazing footage of blending work! That was what I was looking for, so motivating. I'm going to try this on some bootleg figures with lousy paintjob and try painting my own clay figures. Subbed. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! You will find tomorrow's video very interesting if you enjoyed this!
Wow. The first segment, about mixing your own flesh tones, was amazing.
Awesome, glad it was helpful. :)
It was. Seeing dark flesh tones would’ve been useful also. Sometimes people forget. And there is not a lot of info on dark skin tones
That base skin, painted with an airbrush, before applying any ink at all, it's already better than any "final product" I have ever achieved... Encouraging to think all there is to learn ahead! ... If you think about it with the right mindset...
Yep, there are always more steps on the hobby journey, that's why it's wonderful. :)
I suggest a Glass Palette to you. Red Grass Games or even better New Wave® POSH®. I suggest grey instead of clear or white so see the hues correctly
I mean - I always knew that large scale models (fleshy bits) generally are painted using oils - but *** mind blown *** Holy crap! ... I'm almost tempted - no I'm not actually going to do it - to throw all my hundreds and hundreds of acrylics in the trash and start over new ... lol
Yeah, it's so much fun. :)
Awesome! Thanks a lot for this one. Looks really easy and I'm sure I will give it a try in the future.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Excellent tutorial answers a lot of questions for a novice
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!
Thanks!
Dude, that giant’s skin looked fantastic just after your zinethal!
Zenithal does a lot of work, hope you liked the end product as well. :)
Love it! This was always the next video I was going to end up watching after the most recent oil tutorial
Also, I take it any varnish is OK to use over the top? Am currently using the Vallejo ones via an airbrush
Glad it was helpful! and use, any varnish will be fine over the top (though I prefer Matte varnish for the most part).
You can use a 4 X 6 index card placed inside of a disposable plastic sandwich as a small pallet. When the paint is done, you remove and re-use the index card in the next sandwich bag.
Neat, that's a clever call for sure.
I started painting using Bob Ross' videos. I find oil paints a lot less intimidating than acrylics. So much less stress. So much more forgiving.
It's true, it's so relaxing.
Loved it! One of my fav vids of yours.
Thank you, this was fun to do for sure.
Fantastic vid Vince, I've been fascinated by oil paintings ever since I went to the Guild Hall art gallery a few years ago, and here's me no idea I could use it with my mini's! If your ever in London you should visit it, it's a bit of a hidden gem and free!
Glad you enjoyed it and I will have to check that out (this year aside), I am generally in London at least 3 times a year. Guild Hall art gallery, what part of town is it in?
@@VinceVenturella It's at the centre of 'The City of London' which is a sort of self governing city state in a square mile right in the centre of London. Make sure you go downstairs as when they were building the foundations of the new gallery (the old one was destroyed by German bombing) they found a Roman Amphitheatre!
Great video, but it's odd; I've been painting canvases for decades and I use synthetic brushes for acrylics and sable for oils! On minis I only use sable, except for dry brushing.
Yeah, Windsor and Newton was made with oil painting in mind. That said, I expect that this advice is because you would have to have a dedicated sable brush for oils, as cleaning the white spirits out of it so it could work in water would be troublesome.
I have to agree here, I've been using sable brushes with my oils for years now, they still look like new. It will depend on exactly how you work with the oil paints I guess, but there is no fundamental incompatibility.
Yes, it's funny, in this one I talk about the synthetics and the use for Oils, I have another video coming soon and I talk about the idea of dedicated sables for oil paints, I have a set that are just for oils. BUt I wanted to start here.
@@VinceVenturella Makes sense. As usual! Keep up the great work
Thank you for a great tutorial, please do more videos on using oil paints for miniature painting. I know this will seem like a silly question, when you talked about varnishing after the oil paint was dry, are you using the same varnish that you use for acrylic paint? Thanks again for the great tutorial, keep them comming!
More are coming, I am using a lot of oil painting recently. FOr varnish, I am using a 50/50 mix of Satin and AK Ultra Matte varnish (same as the Acrylic painting).
Super inspiring! I have the same model with a very basic skin tone. I'll be trying this for sure. Thanks for the detailed video!
@Scott Holder The bulk of the model is a Games Workshop giant, I assumed the other elements were converted.
Awlays happy to help. :)
This is correct, it's the GW Giant with conversions.
I use an old food dehydrator to dry my oils overnight.
That's a really great idea.
An old oil painter trick is to set your figure under an incandescent bulb, 100 watt. The heat will dry the paint and it will be matt. Don't do this with plastic figures, you and your figure will be sad.
Moar oil paints tutorials please! I've just started to using them. Looks like they start to be popular around again in wargaming world.
More tutorials are coming. :)
@@VinceVenturella Maybe something about smaller minis batch pairing with oils? :P
@@madluper Yeah, they dry so slow it's painful to just paint 1 mini at a time :D
Been looking forward to this one. I struggle with skin tones and this should help a lot
Excellent, happy to help. :)
Thanks, Bob.
Happy to help.
Super cool! I will need to use oils for upcoming Sons of Behemat.
Yeah, I know that's how I am getting my giants painted. :)
You make it look so easy . Now I get to collect more paint hehehe
Never a bad time to get more paint.
To true I get every new set that drops. It's fun to test them out and see what they can or can't do
Wow amazing. When you started slathering on that white paint to his nipples I got nervous for a moment you weren't going to be able to bring it back but then you did!
I'd particularly love to see how you did that tree branch he's holding. I like how I do wood but I don't get it nearly as good as you, yours has such a great variety of color to it. I think I see inktense wood in the more yellowy bits but even if that's true getting it so rich is a lot harder said than done. Would also love to see how you did the skull on the end of his club. I've been doing similar stuff to a lot of people to get bone color but the skull on the end of his club looks so much more like old skulls that have been sitting out in the forest and are picked clean. Fantastic work as always~!
I'll see if I can tackle another wood video, but it really is much the same techniques from an earlier video. :)
@@VinceVenturella there was such variety in that piece that you just did but I'll give that video another watch and maybe post a comment when I do! Thanks again
Thanks for this amazing tutorial Vince. I'm gonna attempt to do an ogre skin on a bust. Maybe acrylics for the rest of the details.
Go for it! :)
Ha. Clearly a fan of Bob Ross given your presentation😄
Most definitely.
Hello Vince, thank you for yet another informative and inspiring video!
I just tried oil paints for the first time and am loving the results!
A few questions I couldn't find covered anywhere online.
1. Since it can take over a day. How can I know when oil paint is dry/cured? Is it just a matter of time or are there any visual/tactile hints that it has finished curing?
2. How long do you wait before spray varnishing oil paint?
3. Do you varnish oil paint before adding additional layers of acrylic paint?
1) It's just a sense of time based on the thickness, but 48 hours with this kind of thinned oil paint is always safe.
2) Until it's dry, so basically 24-48 hours.
3) Yes, in general I will always varnish before I add additional acrylic layers. You don't have to if it's completely cured, but I like to just to even out the finish.
Great Video..very helpful! Thanks
Glad it was helpful! :)
You should really try water-miscible oils. Holbein duo aqua, when used with water only, will dry to a nice matte finish. They remain workable for about 24 hours, so you still get the advantages of slow-drying, and the painting process is just the same.
Note I’m not saying you yourself should change anything, your clearly confortable painting with classic oils, but I feel presenting them would really help hobbyists getting into oils. It’s nice to know you can just use water and your same old brushes, without having to deal with toxic thinner.
Yeah, it's certainly something I want to try, I'll get around to it eventually.
yo at 20:39 he brought out some cool whip on the nip lmao
I did catch the nip there for sure. ;)
Awesome, thanks for this one Vince! :-D
Glad you liked it! :)
Oil paints, the original wet blending. Oils need more love, very underrated.
I totally agree! :)
Yes, I'm being followed by a moobshadow
Moobshadow, moobshadow
Leaping and hopping on a moobshadow
Moobshadow, moobshadow
Love it
Thank you as always. I woulld like to see how you paint wood like you can see on the club he is holding! :)
Hey Philip, if you look through the rest of the Hobby Cheating series, you'll find a whole bunch of deep dive videos just like this one. I seem to remember Vince covering wood several times, the "S75 Inktense Wood" joke will live forever in my memory. But in any case, I can recommend working your way through all of the videos, each one is a gem.
Yep, if you look in the 60's for the Rich Sylvaneth Wood, you'll see my techique, it's very simple and fun. :)
Thank you!
Always smooth the moob shadows. Everyone knows this!
It's really important, can't have strong moob shadows.
wonderful
Thank you! Cheers!
Definitely let your oils dry. Given how thin the layers on minis might be a day or two MIGHT be enough. More if you’ve used white. But, on canvas or board, oil paint takes months to fully cure. While they do they actually contract. Putting acrylic on top of oil is typically not done because of this. The acrylic can seal the oil and as the oil cures it can actually break up and crack the acrylic. Painters typically say oil on top of acrylic, fine... other way around... not fine. Also, there are water mixable oil paints available from W&N that work and feel like oils, have a longer drying time, but can be thinned and cleaned with water, no chemicals needed.
Lots of people paint acrylic on top of oils. Normally they seal first with a varnish. I know people who use both acrylic and lacquer based varnish. Due to the size of the paint area and thinness of the layers the usual 2d oil painting rules don’t seem to apply quite the same.
Yes, I generally give it 24-48 hours, between the thinness and the the white spirits, I've never had an issue with the varnish over top. But it's good to make sure it's dry before you varnish (or at least most of the way there). :)
I know this is a three year old video so maybe you’ve experimented already but you should give water soluble oils a try. No solvents to deal with. Thin with water, clean with soap and water. All the benefits of oils and a slightly shorter drying time.
I am going to get around to giving them a try.
Thanks for another amazing video Vince! Can you tell me which brands do you recommend for brushes when working with oils? which ones are yours? Also, what about the mineral spirits? is the mona lisa better? Sometimes they tend to have a strong smell, i dont know about different brands, here in my country is kind of limited the selection, but any guide can help me a lot. Thanks again! There is a brand called Abteilung 502, that are special oil paints made for miniatures and kits, that even dry faster i believe, do you now about them? Would be great if you would do a review :) Thanks again
Any kind of synthetic brushes will work, I also have a few sable brushes I use JUST for this purpose. As to White Spirits, the Mona Lisa or the Gamblin are what I would recommend. The Abteilung 502 are good for sure, they are meant specifically for miniatures and will serve you well.
ALWAYS smooth your moob shadows.
Always. ;)
I'm being followed by a moob shadow,
moob shadow, moob shadow!
So much Moobing in this video. ;)
You need a softer paint scraper! Much easier when working with small amounts like that, looks like a thin paperknife almost..
Yeah, I actually grabbed the wrong one for the video. :)
I was kinda disappointed the first time I painted a cloak with oil, cause the result seemed very meh, a couple of days later when the extreme shinyness dulled down a bit, it looked great, still needs a satin or matte varnish but I'll definitely going to use that again for space marine captain cloaks and for sm banners, maybe even normal shading on powerarmor
Awesome, happy to help. :)
Nice effect, but I'm afraid of white spirit nonetheless, in fact it's white spirit. I did a little research on the painters' websites and they recommend Eco Solvent by Renesans. I have to check in soon, apparently no harm to health and no smell. Apparently, the only problem is the ability to dissolve the varnish on the brush, so you don't know how you will be at the model.
I use either Mona Lisa or Gamsol, and in this case, it's such a small amount, I don't think its posing much risk, I mean, we are talking a few drops in the bottom of a ramican, not near the amount you use for tradtitional oil painting, but I am sure there are options out there.
@@VinceVenturella It's not about the brand. I have read that the so-called ECO solvents do not sensitize, are odorless and do not affect health like normal solvents for oil paints. I live in a small apartment with my wife and little kid and I don't want to use the wrong hemi close to my child. I agree 100%, it's good that we have some options :D besides, I like the idea and the painting very much, it's nice to watch. A very nice option with oil paints, if someone does not have an airbrush and wants to have beautiful toned effects.
im just about to venture into oils after near 30 years with acrylics, looks so wrong just splodging colours on and blending on the mini, you do great helpful videos tho so thank you
Best of luck! :)
The first models I ever painted was a unit of ultramarines but all I had was testors paints. They took so long to paint because of the same reason oils take forever, drying. I never knew about ceiling layers down with varnish. And I definitely didn't have a Zen relaxed experience. I'm really tempted to go drop 5 Franklins at my local art supply store on some oils now that I have seem what is possible. After watching what you did with skin tones, with this wonderful troll. I wonder do you ever use oils on smaller 28 mm models? Or smaller?
Absolutely, I love oil paints on smaller miniatures, I have some videos on it, this one is a good example - th-cam.com/video/-ha32I_iJPM/w-d-xo.html
Also.... "Oh, I'm bein' followed by a mooooob shadow, moob shadow, moob shadow. Leapin' and hoppin' on a moooooob shadow, moob shadow, moob shadow..."
So much moob shadowing in this video. :)
You should’ve taught at my art school.
Well thank you, I'm not sure I'm equipped for that, but happy to help. :)
Hey Vince! I wanted to say thanks for all of the information that you pass along. Personally you have really been a wealth of knowledge to the point that I am finally working on the models I have been collecting and building over the years and have deiced to jump into the deep end and incorporate oils into this initial endeavor because - like you say and I have finally accepted and internalized - you cant ruin a model. I have been struggling with oils and because I think my touch is too heavy, how much pressure are you exerting on the oils, 2 hairs and some air or something else? Thank you so much again!
Thank you! Always happy to help. :)
Thanks Vince - your efforts have moved the needle of mini painting knowledge forward instrumentally.
A big Q - why ever paint in acrylics instead of oils?
Sure, the answer is because it's the right tool for the job. The acrylics are good for small detail and fine control. For example, when I am painting eyes or a tattoo, this is where acrylic paint works well.
@@VinceVenturella great, thank you mate
Vince Venturella= the Bob Ross of Miniature Painting...
...or Bob Ross= the Vince Venturella of Canvas painting?
.
.
.
You be the judge.
I know for sure it's not the second and the first seems too generous as well. :) - But I am happy to help.
Do you varnish with matt or gloss varnish, over the dry oils, when you want to then use acrylic paints over the varnish?
I actually varnish with a 50/50 mix of Satin Varnish from Vallejo and AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish. I find it gives the right mix of durability and is still completely matte.
Was talking to James Wappel on IG and he reallyyyyy got me into using oils for NMM. I haven't looked back :p
Yeah, it's a whole different ball game.
Wow that was awesome - moobs and all haha! Do you ever use oils for free hand work?
It doesn't really work great for detail of freehand (like thin lines and the like, because the rough nature of how it applies), that being said, if you are doing a freehand image, it can be great for items like smoothing out actual full images liek we did on the knights.
Vince Venturella awesome thanks Vince!
Useful as always
Glad it was helpful! :)
Vince Venturella by the way, do you know something about “Oil Paint Rendering” technique created by Michael Rinaldi?
@@rossomachin I just went and read the article, I like the way he lays it out, very familiar to many of the techniques I am using with my oil paints, especialy in later phases.
Vince Venturella Great!
would love to see you work on a face
You will only have to wait a few weeks. :)
This was a revelation for me. Atm I'm just printing and building a big winged creature and I've been giving a lot of thought as to how I was going to paint him and thanks to this video I now know. One question Vince, what type of varnish goes on first? Acrylic or enamel? I don't remember hearing you say
ALways happy to help. Just standard old acrylic varnish. :)
Im little bit scared about stripping paint down. acrylic paints are fine without problem, IPA strip them down easily but about oils I dont know
Vince just found this video and I am excited to start using oils. Do you have a video that shows how you got the mini to the stage before you start using the oils? From doing the zenithal and base coats.
It was just a zenithal with one coat of elf flesh lightly glazed through an airbrush, so not much prep really. The key with an acrylic undercoat is just a mid-tone version of whatever the oils will be on top, not necessary, but can make your life easier in the long run.
Vince, any plans for maybe doing a Frazetta style skin/composition?
I think that sounds like an awesome article.
Next from GW: OIl paints rdy to use 8€ 17ml xD
Hi Vince! I know this is an older video but I’m wanting to explore oil paints. When it comes to minis how strictly don you follow the various oil paint rules like “fat over lean”, “thick over thin” etc? And for example knowing it’s fully cured before varnishing?
I would say you can use many of those rules, I am going to have more videos coming soon, but it's not as important, you can bend them some - except the cured before varnishing. That you must absolutely do.
@@VinceVenturella thanks so much for the reply! Yeah I’m quite worried about these oil “painting” rules, but I guess the best thing is to try. I’d certainly love to see more videos on oils! Especially the actual painting with them parts (as opposed to weathering and washes).
Great video Vince. I have never used oils and a bit hesitant to try due to needing to learn how to mix, clean, and apply it all it's forms like acrylic. I am still learning a lot about acrylic and mixing colors. Do you reference color mix charts for a particular color?
They are a totally different thing and do require a new learning curve, so I certainly get it. As to color mixing, I don't really use a mixing chart, but that just comes from experience, it's certainly a good tool when you start out.
Great viddy! Sorry if someone has asked this. Do you prefer Satin or Matt surfaces when varnishing between steps?
1 drop of satin to 3 drops of ultra matte.
Awesome stuff I am really enjoying your series on oil painting!
Is an color base coat always necessary for working with oils? I understand that some of the oil colors are transparent, is this why we can’t just apply them over a primed model?
It's not necessary, it can just make things a little easier or slightly help set an undertone. I do it for large areas, but it's not essential, you just have to be careful with your thinning.
He's a giant, so is moob the right term? Maybe goobs.
You may be onto something. :)