So here’s my predicament, 2013 WRX clutch pedal only creaks when car is on, pulled the covers to check spot welds, they look okay from what I can see, used a stethoscope to listen to the spot welds and heard nothing…….so now I’m trying to figure out if it’s the actual master cylinder or the slave cylinder Car does not creak when off only when running
@14:45 is it like a clicking noise? Did all of this new pedal assembly, humble rumble, new master and slave with hardline and new braided line and i hear like a clicking noise on release of the clutch
Thank you for calling slippers and notthem flip flops 👌. Also did you consider renting a MIG welder and welding the spot welds instead of putting bolts through. I'm about to check my welds because I have horrific creak and would like to know if you considered welding and if so why you didnt.
I had heard of people doing the fix from the outside of the car by tack welding the plate to the firewall. I'm not a fan of welding onto thin metal. At best, the tack weld would refresh the original holding force, but gives no clamping force while the clutch bracket is joined to the firewall, if there are gaps, creak might still be there after the fix under certain load and environmental conditions. I'm a much bigger fan of good old nuts and bolts, the kit that www.humblerumble.ca offers is just that! But with tricks to make it a hell of a lot easier than doing it the old fashioned way.
@@HumbleRumble gotcha. I checked my welds and they're perfectly fine. One friend said it could the clutch fork, another said maybe the pressure plate. I'm gonna have to drop the engine either way 🤦♂️. That subie life tho 😂😂😂
Hey Saad, thanks for the note, in my opinion, the master cylinder braces (brake and clutch) are only beneficial for pedal feel, which I couldn't even tell a difference. The ITS mount braces the clutch and brake assembly and prevents a failure point on that assembly (support rod crack). None of them help the spot welds that this kit is dedicated for. I would save your money on the master cylinder braces and get the spot welds taken care of before they all fail (in which case the method shown in the video will not help you). You can go to my website for more information and links on the matter. www.humblerumble.ca/ Let me know if you have further questions, I'd be happy to help.
Hi Trevor! The nut on the inside is a special oversized black oxide flange nut with distorted thread to prevent it from coming lose during install and use. The firewall gets a lot of heat. The hardware combination is designed to withstand the high temperature fluctuation.
Had an extra hand hold it up, while I pushed it towards passenger side with a flathead to get it thru the carpet. You said this 6 months ago, hopefully it helps anyone else looking for help with this issue.
Thanks for the comment Christian! The whole hardware assembly and drilled holes gets industrial sealant applied all over it, which is included in the installation accessories kit! Have a look: www.humblerumble.ca
Use thread-locker to prevent future headaches
So here’s my predicament, 2013 WRX clutch pedal only creaks when car is on, pulled the covers to check spot welds, they look okay from what I can see, used a stethoscope to listen to the spot welds and heard nothing…….so now I’m trying to figure out if it’s the actual master cylinder or the slave cylinder
Car does not creak when off only when running
@14:45 is it like a clicking noise? Did all of this new pedal assembly, humble rumble, new master and slave with hardline and new braided line and i hear like a clicking noise on release of the clutch
good video. Bigger clearance hole would have saved the headaches of fishing it throught the holes!
where did you get the stainless wire to fish the bolt through?
Thank you for calling slippers and notthem flip flops 👌. Also did you consider renting a MIG welder and welding the spot welds instead of putting bolts through. I'm about to check my welds because I have horrific creak and would like to know if you considered welding and if so why you didnt.
I had heard of people doing the fix from the outside of the car by tack welding the plate to the firewall. I'm not a fan of welding onto thin metal. At best, the tack weld would refresh the original holding force, but gives no clamping force while the clutch bracket is joined to the firewall, if there are gaps, creak might still be there after the fix under certain load and environmental conditions. I'm a much bigger fan of good old nuts and bolts, the kit that www.humblerumble.ca offers is just that! But with tricks to make it a hell of a lot easier than doing it the old fashioned way.
@@HumbleRumble gotcha. I checked my welds and they're perfectly fine. One friend said it could the clutch fork, another said maybe the pressure plate. I'm gonna have to drop the engine either way 🤦♂️. That subie life tho 😂😂😂
@@GucciManecubus before you go dropping the engine, check the support tube on the clutch assembly. Google image search: 2008 sti clutch crack
@@HumbleRumble will do. Thanks.
Should I even bother with the braces after this?
Hey Saad, thanks for the note, in my opinion, the master cylinder braces (brake and clutch) are only beneficial for pedal feel, which I couldn't even tell a difference. The ITS mount braces the clutch and brake assembly and prevents a failure point on that assembly (support rod crack). None of them help the spot welds that this kit is dedicated for. I would save your money on the master cylinder braces and get the spot welds taken care of before they all fail (in which case the method shown in the video will not help you). You can go to my website for more information and links on the matter. www.humblerumble.ca/ Let me know if you have further questions, I'd be happy to help.
Do you weld the nut that remains inside the cabin to the set screw? Or do you use something else to keep it from spinning?
Hi Trevor! The nut on the inside is a special oversized black oxide flange nut with distorted thread to prevent it from coming lose during install and use. The firewall gets a lot of heat. The hardware combination is designed to withstand the high temperature fluctuation.
Red locktite
Anyone getting stuck on the carpet for the 3rd hole I lost one of the bolts and I cant get another to go through
Had an extra hand hold it up, while I pushed it towards passenger side with a flathead to get it thru the carpet. You said this 6 months ago, hopefully it helps anyone else looking for help with this issue.
Is the drill bit a 9.1mm?
Hey dude, the self centering drill bits with drill stops spec'd for the kit now being sold at our website www.humblerumble.ca is 10.5mm!
What size are those bolts? m6?
The hardware offered by the kit is grade 8 3/8-16, closer to m10. When torqued to spec, each hardware assembly had over 4000 lbs in clamping force.
@@HumbleRumble Cool, Thanks!
@@HumbleRumble what length are they?
Without painting the drills it would rust and over all fail. I suggest painting those holes.
Thanks for the comment Christian! The whole hardware assembly and drilled holes gets industrial sealant applied all over it, which is included in the installation accessories kit! Have a look: www.humblerumble.ca
@@HumbleRumble I would apply paint on it still peace of mind.