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WRX and STI Firewall Spot Weld Fix (Without removing any dash pieces, 1.5 hour job)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ม.ค. 2020
- The 2008-2014 WRX and STI (GR and GV) are known to have the clutch and brake pedal assembly mounting bracket rip holes from the firewall. This creates a horrendous creak that can only be fixed by removing the dash, or lots of fiddling with universal joints and lots of swearing, and realization that you should have just sucked it up and removed the dash anyways.
This is my method of fixing the issue without removing the dash, or working in the dark
I have had all the braces available on the market, clutch master brace, brake master brace, ITS mount, NEW clutch and brake assembly, the spot welds still let go.
I offer a kit with the hardware and step by step instructions.
I also have a kit with the accessories, drill bit, caulking, and loctite.
For more information on the problem, you can read up on it and buy the kits here:
www.humblerumb...
Ready to ship.
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@14:45 is it like a clicking noise? Did all of this new pedal assembly, humble rumble, new master and slave with hardline and new braided line and i hear like a clicking noise on release of the clutch
Use thread-locker to prevent future headaches
where did you get the stainless wire to fish the bolt through?
So here’s my predicament, 2013 WRX clutch pedal only creaks when car is on, pulled the covers to check spot welds, they look okay from what I can see, used a stethoscope to listen to the spot welds and heard nothing…….so now I’m trying to figure out if it’s the actual master cylinder or the slave cylinder
Car does not creak when off only when running
good video. Bigger clearance hole would have saved the headaches of fishing it throught the holes!
Thank you for calling slippers and notthem flip flops 👌. Also did you consider renting a MIG welder and welding the spot welds instead of putting bolts through. I'm about to check my welds because I have horrific creak and would like to know if you considered welding and if so why you didnt.
I had heard of people doing the fix from the outside of the car by tack welding the plate to the firewall. I'm not a fan of welding onto thin metal. At best, the tack weld would refresh the original holding force, but gives no clamping force while the clutch bracket is joined to the firewall, if there are gaps, creak might still be there after the fix under certain load and environmental conditions. I'm a much bigger fan of good old nuts and bolts, the kit that www.humblerumble.ca offers is just that! But with tricks to make it a hell of a lot easier than doing it the old fashioned way.
@@HumbleRumble gotcha. I checked my welds and they're perfectly fine. One friend said it could the clutch fork, another said maybe the pressure plate. I'm gonna have to drop the engine either way 🤦♂️. That subie life tho 😂😂😂
@@GucciManecubus before you go dropping the engine, check the support tube on the clutch assembly. Google image search: 2008 sti clutch crack
@@HumbleRumble will do. Thanks.
Do you weld the nut that remains inside the cabin to the set screw? Or do you use something else to keep it from spinning?
Hi Trevor! The nut on the inside is a special oversized black oxide flange nut with distorted thread to prevent it from coming lose during install and use. The firewall gets a lot of heat. The hardware combination is designed to withstand the high temperature fluctuation.
Red locktite
Should I even bother with the braces after this?
Hey Saad, thanks for the note, in my opinion, the master cylinder braces (brake and clutch) are only beneficial for pedal feel, which I couldn't even tell a difference. The ITS mount braces the clutch and brake assembly and prevents a failure point on that assembly (support rod crack). None of them help the spot welds that this kit is dedicated for. I would save your money on the master cylinder braces and get the spot welds taken care of before they all fail (in which case the method shown in the video will not help you). You can go to my website for more information and links on the matter. www.humblerumble.ca/ Let me know if you have further questions, I'd be happy to help.
Anyone getting stuck on the carpet for the 3rd hole I lost one of the bolts and I cant get another to go through
Had an extra hand hold it up, while I pushed it towards passenger side with a flathead to get it thru the carpet. You said this 6 months ago, hopefully it helps anyone else looking for help with this issue.
Is the drill bit a 9.1mm?
Hey dude, the self centering drill bits with drill stops spec'd for the kit now being sold at our website www.humblerumble.ca is 10.5mm!
What size are those bolts? m6?
The hardware offered by the kit is grade 8 3/8-16, closer to m10. When torqued to spec, each hardware assembly had over 4000 lbs in clamping force.
@@HumbleRumble Cool, Thanks!
@@HumbleRumble what length are they?
WTF ? Is this left hand drive cars only ?
Possibly? I'm exploring into the issue for RHD cars currently!
@@HumbleRumble I've never heard of anything remotely like this alleged problem.
I’d be interested in this also. As my uk spec sti has just started squeaking
There have been some cases of LHD and RHD LGTs with the same problem. It's not unfathomable to have it happen on the RHD GR/GVs.
@@Kilrathal have you checked your welds from under your windshield cowling?
Without painting the drills it would rust and over all fail. I suggest painting those holes.
Thanks for the comment Christian! The whole hardware assembly and drilled holes gets industrial sealant applied all over it, which is included in the installation accessories kit! Have a look: www.humblerumble.ca
@@HumbleRumble I would apply paint on it still peace of mind.