With the Subaru EJ25 engine it's quite easy to remove the entire air filter box, which brings both the clutch master cylinder reservoir and the slave cylinder into full view. Trust me, ripping out the air box allows much easier access to both components. No point complaining that you can't get your tools into tight spots if there's something in the way which can be easily moved aside. It's like replacing the spark plugs in this engine; take out the windscreen washer bottle and air intake assembly to find much less tedious accessibility to the plug journals. As for the job of fixing the hydraulic clutch system? You never showed how to remove air from the line, nor how to get the system working again once that air is gone.
More to do with the fact that the driving position in the vehicle itself is on the left when looking from the front bumper of a right hand drive vehicle and vice versa, so requiring the clutch master cylinder to be installed on that same side as where the actuator arm from the clutch pedal comes through the firewall. Don't worry so much about where the components are located; it's what you need to do with each component that counts. The engine bay layout is mirrored for alternate LHD and RHD vehicles across many hundreds of makes and models. Thing is, if folks working on a LHD can't work out how to do the job simply by watching the video above then converting left to right, when the only difference between vehicles is the clutch reservoir being attached to the opposite side of the engine bay, then they're obviously too dumb to do the job properly and should instead take the car to a qualified mechanic.
I noticed that you loosed the nipple before he pressed down. What happens if my helper pressed down on the pedal before I loosen the nipple and then I loosen it. My master leaks fluid from the bottom when I did it this way. I was thinking perhaps it was broken but when I bleed, there is no air in the system. Is this a fail safe in the master to release fluid from the bottom to prevent too much pressure. Perhaps my master is not bad from it leaking out when pressed without the nipple being loose? Or maybe the slave is? .
Straight to the point and quick. Thank you.
Remove the air box. Takes five minutes to remove and reinstall. And makes the job ten times easier.
With the Subaru EJ25 engine it's quite easy to remove the entire air filter box, which brings both the clutch master cylinder reservoir and the slave cylinder into full view. Trust me, ripping out the air box allows much easier access to both components. No point complaining that you can't get your tools into tight spots if there's something in the way which can be easily moved aside. It's like replacing the spark plugs in this engine; take out the windscreen washer bottle and air intake assembly to find much less tedious accessibility to the plug journals.
As for the job of fixing the hydraulic clutch system? You never showed how to remove air from the line, nor how to get the system working again once that air is gone.
True. Keep pumping clutch. It will get hard again. But it can scare some folks to thinking their master cylinder is leaking.
Pump the clutch and then hold to fire wall then open bleed. Close bleed and lift clutch pedal off floor repeat. Don’t open with out clutch pushed in.
Thank you so much. I was just bleeding my clutch like brakes and I was just living with a clutch that needed to be bleed
Super helpful video thank you!
The reservoir is on the opposite side of US vehicles! It makes sense considering Aussies drive on the left!
More to do with the fact that the driving position in the vehicle itself is on the left when looking from the front bumper of a right hand drive vehicle and vice versa, so requiring the clutch master cylinder to be installed on that same side as where the actuator arm from the clutch pedal comes through the firewall. Don't worry so much about where the components are located; it's what you need to do with each component that counts. The engine bay layout is mirrored for alternate LHD and RHD vehicles across many hundreds of makes and models. Thing is, if folks working on a LHD can't work out how to do the job simply by watching the video above then converting left to right, when the only difference between vehicles is the clutch reservoir being attached to the opposite side of the engine bay, then they're obviously too dumb to do the job properly and should instead take the car to a qualified mechanic.
I noticed that you loosed the nipple before he pressed down. What happens if my helper pressed down on the pedal before I loosen the nipple and then I loosen it. My master leaks fluid from the bottom when I did it this way. I was thinking perhaps it was broken but when I bleed, there is no air in the system. Is this a fail safe in the master to release fluid from the bottom to prevent too much pressure. Perhaps my master is not bad from it leaking out when pressed without the nipple being loose? Or maybe the slave is? .
you definetly caused an internal leak on your master cylinder or around there which will cause your pedal to drop to the floor if not fixed
Cheers mate!
does the reservoir cap need to be on or off?