THANK YOU. I'm doing this soon and lowkey have been terrified about bleeding the clutch. A local shop in the Seattle area quoted $550 for the install and clutch bleed, so I'm determined to do this myself.
Glad I was able to help! I was worried about the clutch bleeding too but it turned out to be pretty easy. The hardest part was putting everything back!
for relativeness...my dealer wants ~$250 to do a brake & clutch bleed. And now that I know they have to get in under the I/C, this explains the high-ish cost. The dealer most likely uses a powered bleeder process (using shop air), so for them to actually bleed the system is decently quick (4 corners + the clutch). The time consuming part is the I/C and wheel removal. Looks like I'm going to pick up a one-man hand-held vacuum bleeder and suck (pull) the fluid from each nipple vs pushing it from the reservoir. I now have a dual catch can system, Group-N pitch stop and a clutch bleed in my near future. Because, ne the I/C is out, might as well do everything possible. Thanks Ron.
$250 seems fair for everything involved. I’d probably pay if they can ensure the IC is re-installed properly. This was probably the hardest part of this entire job, that IC coupler is a pain. You’re gonna have to let me know what you think of those vacuum bleeders. Thought about picking one up but reviews said otherwise. I still think they’d be convenient, especially for the brakes.
You forgot that the line Perrin includes also has a bleeder at the start of the clutch line at the master clutch cylinder. It's built into the nut. You can bleed it there as well for extra assurance of no air
You were lucky using an adjustable wrench on that bleeder nipple because it wasn't seized. Always use either a flare nut wrench or flare nut crows foot wrench on brake/clutch fittings.
Question: Got a 2019 STI. Can I flush the clutch fluid through the bleeder using a pneumatic bleeder without having to push the clutch in? Not trying to bleed, just flush the system. But not sure if it will mess with the pedal...
Good question. I’m almost positive that flushing the system is the same process as bleeding the system, regardless of a pneumatic bleeder or not. Is there a reason you don’t want to push the clutch in? It’ll ensure you push out all the fluids if you are trying to flush the system.
I think if air is introduced into the system, you have to do the pumping method. If the system is undisturbed, you can do a vacuum bleed to flush. I just did this on my manual transmission Tacoma.
I basically put the bottle as low as I could so that the fluid moved into it. Also pinch the tube before taking it off of the valve. Only a little bit of fluid should spill.
Just replaced the clutch master cylinder on my 13’ XV Crosstrek, I have a vacuum bleeder I’m using. Should I keep pumping it or will engaging and disengaging the clutch do that? As of right now the clutch is a bit spongy, hoping to fix this in the morning. Also. The CMC and slave both have bleeder valves, does it matter which one I use? I’ve been using the valve on the slave.
I haven’t used a vacuum bleeder but I would think using it wouldn’t require you to engage/disengage the clutch since you should be able to pump out the air from the system. I would keep pumping until the lines are straight fluid. Your second question I’d be lying if I said I knew. Different platform and I wouldn’t want to mislead you!
Got a question got a new clutch at the dealership this week on my 2018 wrx now there feels like there no pressure when pushing down the clutch but the pedal does come up and it goes into gear but for a new clutch should I get it bled again or is this normal?
If the clutch pedal goes back up after you press it then it should be fine. If you press the pedal and it stays down then yes, it will need to be bled.
I clutch in and press the throttle and the RPMs don’t go past 2-3K RPM. It’s just blipping. But if I’m neutral, it can rev all the way to max RPM. I can shift no problem though. Does this mean I may have air in my clutch system?
THANK YOU. I'm doing this soon and lowkey have been terrified about bleeding the clutch. A local shop in the Seattle area quoted $550 for the install and clutch bleed, so I'm determined to do this myself.
Glad I was able to help! I was worried about the clutch bleeding too but it turned out to be pretty easy. The hardest part was putting everything back!
That top mount intercooler is a pain to slide into position!
for relativeness...my dealer wants ~$250 to do a brake & clutch bleed. And now that I know they have to get in under the I/C, this explains the high-ish cost. The dealer most likely uses a powered bleeder process (using shop air), so for them to actually bleed the system is decently quick (4 corners + the clutch). The time consuming part is the I/C and wheel removal. Looks like I'm going to pick up a one-man hand-held vacuum bleeder and suck (pull) the fluid from each nipple vs pushing it from the reservoir. I now have a dual catch can system, Group-N pitch stop and a clutch bleed in my near future. Because, ne the I/C is out, might as well do everything possible. Thanks Ron.
$250 seems fair for everything involved. I’d probably pay if they can ensure the IC is re-installed properly. This was probably the hardest part of this entire job, that IC coupler is a pain. You’re gonna have to let me know what you think of those vacuum bleeders. Thought about picking one up but reviews said otherwise. I still think they’d be convenient, especially for the brakes.
You forgot that the line Perrin includes also has a bleeder at the start of the clutch line at the master clutch cylinder. It's built into the nut. You can bleed it there as well for extra assurance of no air
@@ronfromportland there is no nipple on it though. Literally a tiny hole in the nut.
You were lucky using an adjustable wrench on that bleeder nipple because it wasn't seized. Always use either a flare nut wrench or flare nut crows foot wrench on brake/clutch fittings.
Yup, I learned this the hard way when working on a coolant line on my old legacy. Thanks!
Thank you for the video , this helped me save so much time
That’s what’s up! Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video! How did you get the tube on? Know it’s been a while but I can’t get the damn tube on the nipple lmao
Spit on it! Naw I’m joking 😂. Use the fluid as lubricant and then push it in there hard. It should work.
Appreciate the video, thanks mate!
Thanks for checking it out! I appreciate it.
Question: Got a 2019 STI. Can I flush the clutch fluid through the bleeder using a pneumatic bleeder without having to push the clutch in? Not trying to bleed, just flush the system. But not sure if it will mess with the pedal...
Good question. I’m almost positive that flushing the system is the same process as bleeding the system, regardless of a pneumatic bleeder or not. Is there a reason you don’t want to push the clutch in? It’ll ensure you push out all the fluids if you are trying to flush the system.
I think if air is introduced into the system, you have to do the pumping method.
If the system is undisturbed, you can do a vacuum bleed to flush. I just did this on my manual transmission Tacoma.
great video thanks lad
Thanks for watching!
How did u get that tube off without spilling fluid at the end?
I basically put the bottle as low as I could so that the fluid moved into it. Also pinch the tube before taking it off of the valve. Only a little bit of fluid should spill.
Just replaced the clutch master cylinder on my 13’ XV Crosstrek, I have a vacuum bleeder I’m using. Should I keep pumping it or will engaging and disengaging the clutch do that? As of right now the clutch is a bit spongy, hoping to fix this in the morning.
Also. The CMC and slave both have bleeder valves, does it matter which one I use? I’ve been using the valve on the slave.
I haven’t used a vacuum bleeder but I would think using it wouldn’t require you to engage/disengage the clutch since you should be able to pump out the air from the system. I would keep pumping until the lines are straight fluid. Your second question I’d be lying if I said I knew. Different platform and I wouldn’t want to mislead you!
Got a question got a new clutch at the dealership this week on my 2018 wrx now there feels like there no pressure when pushing down the clutch but the pedal does come up and it goes into gear but for a new clutch should I get it bled again or is this normal?
If I do have to get it bled could I do my self and is the setup the same for stock wrx 2018
If the clutch pedal goes back up after you press it then it should be fine. If you press the pedal and it stays down then yes, it will need to be bled.
Copy that just gotta get familiar with it
@@johnsisneros612 yup, I imagine it’s a bit softer cause it’s new.
I clutch in and press the throttle and the RPMs don’t go past 2-3K RPM. It’s just blipping. But if I’m neutral, it can rev all the way to max RPM. I can shift no problem though. Does this mean I may have air in my clutch system?
Do you have an AccessPort? If so, sounds like the launch control rev limiter is set to 3k.
@@ronfromportland I do have an AP yea but would my tuner have set that?
@@Eagleye11700 probably, but you can change it yourself too. On the AP, go to Tune -> Adjustments -> Launch Control
@@ronfromportland yes that worked!!!
@@Eagleye11700 good stuff! 🔥