this is the most well explained video i've seen. it doesn't assume every viewer already has prior knowledge and explains each part in detail. Thank you so much, very helpful :)
It is always helpful, to remind everyone of the basics, which are all too easy to get wrong. I was taught, clutch end is coarse adjustment, lever fine adjustment as cables stretch with age. Setting the correct free play makes your bike "feel" nicer.
Glad you made it clear that this adjustment should be done when the engine and clutch are hot. If the clutch cable has been replaced or the handlebars/yokes have been replaced, you want to check that the free play doesn’t vary when you turn the bars from one lock to another. Have personally got this wrong before.
I added an extension arm to my clutch cable and set the freeplay during the winter. Now I'm gonna do it again, after a ride, with a hot engine and clutch. Thanks Dave, great video and explanation of all the things to verify and adjust!
THANK YOU! Seen folks ONLY turn the lever adjustment and end up with the adjustment threads not even engaging the mount! The cable goes all limp noodle at the bars when the lever is released, just waiting to fail
Interesting, I just watched another video and they said do it cold. Having said that, your bike is new, clean and no fairing. Still useful all the same. Thank you
It is creepy how you guys post projects that I am working on. Set my wife's clutch today. After seeing the video, I have to go back to her bike. As always, thank you
Great explanation on adjusting clutch cable free play at the lever, but how about the 3rd adjustment located behind the clutch cover access plug that the service manual recommends? I've seen many videos explaining the procedure on Harleys, but there is definitely a lack of sportbike specific ones.
I don't understand after you loosen the bolts down below what you're looking for ideally? In the video Dave says does the nut touch the bracket, but even if I wind the nut to the end of the thread it still touches the bracket...I was having to ride with the thread up top maybe only a cm or two in and the bike was pulling away in 1st without any throttle... I screwed the thread in until about halfway, tightened it, went below but no matter which direction I tighten the nuts I have zero resistance on the lever, it's just limp but I can see it pulling the cable... Also the clutch cable was new not long ago, and adjusted once when the same thing was happening before, I want to sort it myself not go to a garage... Any advice please..
@@iad77set the bar end to the minimum adjustment, then move down to the engine end of the cable. Adjust there and get a little free play at the lever. Once that has been completed, you will adjust at the lever end over time.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks for the reply, even though the cable was 1 year old the garage said it needed replacing again but with an OEM cable not aftermarket. I had adjusted the barrel on the lever nearly all the way out and all the way in down below which should've meant zero free play but the lever was still 80% freeplay.... £30 for the new cable.... 🤞🏼
Once you run out of adjustment or the cable becomes worn you replace it. If the bike has high mileage it might be worth checking the friction plates thickness on the clutch itself too.
Terrific tutorial - liked and subbed. QUESTION: Awhile back I adjusted the free play at the lever. I'm noticing that when I want to shift from 1st gear to N, it skips to 2nd gear - so do I need to increase or decrease the gap? Thank you!
Thank you for subbing! The gap on the clutch cable is set when the bike is hot. Once optimized, it will be inspected every 1,000 miles or 1,500kms. The shift issue may well be 1. The distance between the shifter and peg and 2. The angle of the shifter when you reach the top of the stroke. Also with the bike on a rear stand and engine off, feel the mechanism from first to neutral, neutral to second. It should be definitive with no slop at all. We need to identify an issue or eliminate the mechanism.
@@usernamemykel The gap with a hot engine is 1-2mm. Look at what you have now. If this is your current free play amount, no further adjustment is needed. If this is accurate, you have a different issue going on with shift lever angle or the gear box. Be systematic and work on one thing at a time.
I must have a bigger space On my bike (4/5 mm) i have small hands and with only 2/3 mm i cant use the clutch perfectly making smoth gear changes or use the friction zone.
It is a suggestion for you to follow and see how that works compared to doing it with a hot engine and clutch. Choose the way you want to do this task, and stay with that process.
I thought your suppose to adjust when the bike is cold because when it's warm the bike is hot or warm everything is tighter because of the expansion of metal when its hot vs cold
You can set cold and check when hot to see if the metal expansion with heat creates a big mathematical difference with your motorcycle. Then you will know if cold or hot is the preferred starting point for you with your motorcycle.
Hi Dave, what is your opinion on hydraulic clutch systems? There is a kit called Hymec by Magura which can be fitted to most bikes and replaces cable system with hydraulic one. Would you fit it to your motorcycle? Thanks.
IMHO I prefer the feel of a clutch cable and knowing exactly where I am with the clutch and transmission. I personally find that a hydraulic clutch lacks this to a point where I am searching for it while trying to keep control of the bike and this is valuable time lost. Depending on the slipper clutch you have and how well it is set up, the hydraulic options might be easier.
I have a question. Is there anyway to feel if its correct when driving? Alot of people say wrong setting can burn the clutch in no time. Im new to the moto world and cant really feel a diffrence if its too tight or too loose. I drive a kawasaki z900 -20 if it helps.
You check free play when the engine/cable is hot. Set it at 2-3mm as per video. Post adjustment see where the bite point is. If all is well, carry on. If the owner's manual gives you a second adjustment for the clutch at the engine end, use it as needed.
On bikes with reservoirs connected to perch, how can I adjust levers to be more ergonomic? My levers could use to go down but then reservoirs would not be level.
If it is a solid cast piece, you can angle down as the gasket seals 100%. If the reservoir is on the upper triple tree you need a longer line between it and the master. Lastly, make sure your brake lines are facing forward at 12 o'clock.
I have adjusted my cables with a little Freeplay...clutch shift is smooth only at times when I drop at 2nd gear there is a rattle sound..and also when i ride a distance,I notice my clutch at times have the adjusted Freeplay but at times feels tighter no Freeplay ..like the lever cable tighten itself..when I come to a stop it will have back it's Freeplay. Is it the clutch friction plate needs replacement?
Is this true between hot or cold engine temps? Is it consistent? It might be the friction plates getting uneven wear or the plates getting caught on the steel basket "fingers".
@@catalystreactionsbw yes you are right..I changed my friction plates and it's uneven..now it's smooth and before this there was some vibrations..but now it's all good
The clutch plates swell with heat, so the free play can diminish. Therefore I set the free play when the engine is at full operating temperatures after a 30 minute ride.
@@susanlang1630 Pressure is seasonal, so cold air at 45F will measure 30psi and the same air at 90F will measure 33psi. I set seasonal cold pressures before I ride.
this is the most well explained video i've seen. it doesn't assume every viewer already has prior knowledge and explains each part in detail. Thank you so much, very helpful :)
Thanks Phil. That is the goal in starting with zero assumptions and build the knowledge up from there.
Just watched another video where they said to adjust while cold. Glad I watched your video on clutch adjustment too.
It is always helpful, to remind everyone of the basics, which are all too easy to get wrong.
I was taught, clutch end is coarse adjustment, lever fine adjustment as cables stretch with age.
Setting the correct free play makes your bike "feel" nicer.
Just what I was looking for. Thorough description on adjusting the clutch. Much appreciated.
Thank you for leveraging the video!
Glad you made it clear that this adjustment should be done when the engine and clutch are hot. If the clutch cable has been replaced or the handlebars/yokes have been replaced, you want to check that the free play doesn’t vary when you turn the bars from one lock to another. Have personally got this wrong before.
Hands down best clutch cable adjustment video on TH-cam
Stay to the end; there's a bonus tip for getting the lever back to just the right position when you're done.
Far more thorough than imagined...
Thanks bro!
I added an extension arm to my clutch cable and set the freeplay during the winter. Now I'm gonna do it again, after a ride, with a hot engine and clutch. Thanks Dave, great video and explanation of all the things to verify and adjust!
Thank you for watching and posting your comment!
THANK YOU! Seen folks ONLY turn the lever adjustment and end up with the adjustment threads not even engaging the mount! The cable goes all limp noodle at the bars when the lever is released, just waiting to fail
I could watch your vids all day long man, no matter how basic it is.. keep 'em coming! :)
Interesting, I just watched another video and they said do it cold. Having said that, your bike is new, clean and no fairing. Still useful all the same. Thank you
With heat, metal expands so I always check it hot.
Perfect explanation and demonstration, thank you 👍🏻
Much better than all the other vids i found
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
It is creepy how you guys post projects that I am working on.
Set my wife's clutch today. After seeing the video, I have to go back to her bike.
As always, thank you
Im glad i came across this video, you are the best man out of all those video explaining this
Many thanks 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you for watching! I really appreciate the kind words.
Great video Dave, will adjust my clutch like this in future.
Thank you Dave for the video! It is really helpfull cos i just change my Oem clutch and brake levels and now i need Clutch cable adjustment! Two 👍 up
Very well explained ! Curious to know your impressions on suspension for the new Speed Triple RS 1200 when you get your hands on it.
Just like my Moto Dave is a Tuning Ninja!
Great video - what to do and why!!
Thank you and glad you enjoyed it!
Your videos are fantastic, very helpful.
Great explanation on adjusting clutch cable free play at the lever, but how about the 3rd adjustment located behind the clutch cover access plug that the service manual recommends? I've seen many videos explaining the procedure on Harleys, but there is definitely a lack of sportbike specific ones.
Noted, and we can do that next time.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you very much!
I don't understand after you loosen the bolts down below what you're looking for ideally? In the video Dave says does the nut touch the bracket, but even if I wind the nut to the end of the thread it still touches the bracket...I was having to ride with the thread up top maybe only a cm or two in and the bike was pulling away in 1st without any throttle... I screwed the thread in until about halfway, tightened it, went below but no matter which direction I tighten the nuts I have zero resistance on the lever, it's just limp but I can see it pulling the cable... Also the clutch cable was new not long ago, and adjusted once when the same thing was happening before, I want to sort it myself not go to a garage... Any advice please..
Forgot to mention my bike is a street triple r 2015, same as in the video
@@iad77set the bar end to the minimum adjustment, then move down to the engine end of the cable. Adjust there and get a little free play at the lever. Once that has been completed, you will adjust at the lever end over time.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks for the reply, even though the cable was 1 year old the garage said it needed replacing again but with an OEM cable not aftermarket. I had adjusted the barrel on the lever nearly all the way out and all the way in down below which should've meant zero free play but the lever was still 80% freeplay.... £30 for the new cable.... 🤞🏼
Great video! I have one question: don't you also have to turn the handlebar left and right and check the adjustment again?
It never hurts to take the time to do everything you need to so you feel comfortable.
Great tutorial made simple. Cheers Dave.
Thank you!!
@@catalystreactionsbw Exactly how I run my bikes! Great video mate.
thanks , exactly that I am looking for.
Most appreciated
This is such a good video
Wish the yamaha R1 had the same adjusters.
When the cable gets old, does it elongate? Up to the point it needs replacement since you run out of adjustment.
Once you run out of adjustment or the cable becomes worn you replace it. If the bike has high mileage it might be worth checking the friction plates thickness on the clutch itself too.
Terrific tutorial - liked and subbed.
QUESTION: Awhile back I adjusted the free play at the lever. I'm noticing that when I want to shift from 1st gear to N, it skips to 2nd gear - so do I need to increase or decrease the gap?
Thank you!
Thank you for subbing! The gap on the clutch cable is set when the bike is hot. Once optimized, it will be inspected every 1,000 miles or 1,500kms. The shift issue may well be 1. The distance between the shifter and peg and 2. The angle of the shifter when you reach the top of the stroke. Also with the bike on a rear stand and engine off, feel the mechanism from first to neutral, neutral to second. It should be definitive with no slop at all. We need to identify an issue or eliminate the mechanism.
@@catalystreactionsbw Please answer my question - do I need a wider or shorter gap?
@@usernamemykel The gap with a hot engine is 1-2mm. Look at what you have now. If this is your current free play amount, no further adjustment is needed. If this is accurate, you have a different issue going on with shift lever angle or the gear box. Be systematic and work on one thing at a time.
Great info... thank you for sharing.
Thank you master dave...
I must have a bigger space On my bike (4/5 mm) i have small hands and with only 2/3 mm i cant use the clutch perfectly making smoth gear changes or use the friction zone.
Thank you.
Great job.
Makes perfect sense. Thanks
That what i was looking for thank you
Thank you
Helpful thx!
Great, thanks!
@davemoss Do we also need to adjust the quick shifter once the clutch cable is adjusted?
The QS cuts off ignition during shifts when the sensor on the shift rod is triggered, that system has nothing to do with your clutch cable.
my bikes manual say adjust when cold. Is it for some bikes different?
It is a suggestion for you to follow and see how that works compared to doing it with a hot engine and clutch. Choose the way you want to do this task, and stay with that process.
I thought your suppose to adjust when the bike is cold because when it's warm the bike is hot or warm everything is tighter because of the expansion of metal when its hot vs cold
You can set cold and check when hot to see if the metal expansion with heat creates a big mathematical difference with your motorcycle. Then you will know if cold or hot is the preferred starting point for you with your motorcycle.
should I adjust the cable when the handle bars on the center? cause when I turn the handle bars to the left or right that freeplay is completely gone.
I would adjust at center and if the free play is gone at left or right I would check the position of the cable to see why the free play is gone.
Hi Dave, what is your opinion on hydraulic clutch systems? There is a kit called Hymec by Magura which can be fitted to most bikes and replaces cable system with hydraulic one. Would you fit it to your motorcycle? Thanks.
IMHO I prefer the feel of a clutch cable and knowing exactly where I am with the clutch and transmission. I personally find that a hydraulic clutch lacks this to a point where I am searching for it while trying to keep control of the bike and this is valuable time lost. Depending on the slipper clutch you have and how well it is set up, the hydraulic options might be easier.
I have a question. Is there anyway to feel if its correct when driving? Alot of people say wrong setting can burn the clutch in no time.
Im new to the moto world and cant really feel a diffrence if its too tight or too loose.
I drive a kawasaki z900 -20 if it helps.
You check free play when the engine/cable is hot. Set it at 2-3mm as per video. Post adjustment see where the bite point is. If all is well, carry on. If the owner's manual gives you a second adjustment for the clutch at the engine end, use it as needed.
On bikes with reservoirs connected to perch, how can I adjust levers to be more ergonomic? My levers could use to go down but then reservoirs would not be level.
If it is a solid cast piece, you can angle down as the gasket seals 100%. If the reservoir is on the upper triple tree you need a longer line between it and the master. Lastly, make sure your brake lines are facing forward at 12 o'clock.
@@catalystreactionsbw Understood, thank you very much for taking time to answer my question!
Another video said clutch should be adjusted when cold?
I was taught this way, others recommend something different. try both and or see what resonates with you.
I have adjusted my cables with a little Freeplay...clutch shift is smooth only at times when I drop at 2nd gear there is a rattle sound..and also when i ride a distance,I notice my clutch at times have the adjusted Freeplay but at times feels tighter no Freeplay ..like the lever cable tighten itself..when I come to a stop it will have back it's Freeplay. Is it the clutch friction plate needs replacement?
Is this true between hot or cold engine temps? Is it consistent? It might be the friction plates getting uneven wear or the plates getting caught on the steel basket "fingers".
@@catalystreactionsbw yes you are right..I changed my friction plates and it's uneven..now it's smooth and before this there was some vibrations..but now it's all good
@@catalystreactionsbw tq Dave ..
Epic
Y si la moto la sentí menos potente ? Cómo si perdiera potencia después de mover el segundo ajustador :'c
Brill
Has David Moss watched happy tree friends?
Just buy an Ktm or husqvarna. Hydraulic clutch :)
U never adjust the clutch Freeplay while hot. Use a nickel which is 2mm on the purch
Can you advise us all why you have this POV? Thanks!
@@catalystreactionsbw heat expands does it not? Would u check tire pressure before , or after u drive
@@susanlang1630 cold to hot is normally 3-4psi on the road. Yes, set cold and then check hot after about 4 minutes.
The clutch plates swell with heat, so the free play can diminish. Therefore I set the free play when the engine is at full operating temperatures after a 30 minute ride.
@@susanlang1630 Pressure is seasonal, so cold air at 45F will measure 30psi and the same air at 90F will measure 33psi. I set seasonal cold pressures before I ride.