The ebay part is probably a Rockford 430-11A. It's easy to install, but with the angled, unmachined surface of the driveshaft, only a small fraction of the snap rings touch, and on some driveshafts (like mine) there may still be a gap allowing side to side play. The Spicer 5-3201X has a larger cross with the proper cap size that extends deeper into the cap holes and probably would have prevented the failure that Ivan experienced in the follow-up video, and may have even worked on his damaged driveshaft, but since the grooves are spaced too wide, centering and securing the caps are up to you. The large cross is a very tight fit that may require light filing of the u-joint forging marks to install. I centered by sight, checked on the car with an angle gauge, then tack welded the caps. If you are comfortable doing this, I think it's a more robust part. A slightly smaller cross than the Spicer, maybe easier to find, and no filing is the Rockford 430-11, or the even smaller TUS-11. If you want the easiest install, check out the Rockford 430-11A and its rebrands and clones, possibly a Pronto PT430-11A or TUS-11A, but you may have the same failure shown in the follow-up video.
Chevy was gluing the u-joints for a number of years now. Had to heat with a torch to get the glue out then press or hammer out the joints. Had snap ring groove for standard clips when putting back together.
makes sense that with the driveshaft out the car is still drivable. the rogue is primarily a front drive car and the driveshaft is only used when the going gets slippery. hope you use the u joint with the zerk fittings so you can lube it once in a while (yet in reality forget to do it).
Ivan, I've done hundreds of drive shaft u joints replacements. They're so easy to do. Lol. I use press, vice, hammer whatever available lol. I've always bought MOOG part. Slightly expensive ones. As I know they last long time. I had really horrible vibration on my suburban. I replaced all of them on front and rear drive lines. 4 of them. Problem went away:) I need to do my blazer as well. Lol
it's been five years since you commented but I'm curious if you've done any that are three piece (two bearing hangers) and if those had vibration issues. Thank you!
I would have used an angle grinder to cut out the centre piece of the UJ, then press the remaining two bits out, would have saved a bunch of time. Thanks for sharing,
Like your shirt lol. Ivan to the rescue and one way to ensure they dont move is a couple tig tacks. I bet alot of shafts that get thrown out could be saved.
I have the exact same press! Looks identical with the same faded orange, and makes the same funny sounds when you release pressure, LOL. Bought it about 9 years ago from the good ol' Harbor "Fright". 😁 I had a Toyota Highlander come in here with the same style driveshaft, except that there were 3 u-joints, 2 carrier bearings, and one CV joint in the center. I'd like to beat the engineer who designed this thing with his driveshaft! I took one look at this unwieldy 6-foot long contraption, and said, frigg this! I ordered a new shaft, LOL. My press is in the crowded old section of my shop - I've got so much crap piled up in there it's ridiculous. Been trying to fix and sell things off, but there aren't enough hours in the day. Making SLOOOOW progress there. Anyway, that driveshaft would've been sitting on top of my ATV seat, while I'm squeezed in a doorway fumbling with the press, sockets, and all that. Glad I threw in the towel ahead of time on that one! Next project is excavating that press and moving it into the new shop. It's only got to go 10 feet ... but it's a crowded 10 feet, LOL! At first, I did a search for U-joints, and came up with nothing but uncertainty - I didn't want to get halfway through the job and find out the replacements were wrong. Didn't seem to be very many people tackling this on the net at the time. I remember seeing things that weren't 100% direct fit, and these things were so wasted, I didn't want to get into measuring worn out crap. I got the shaft assembly off Amazon, and installed it for HALF of what the dealer wanted for the shaft itself, so the customer was happy. 👍👍 Now if it was my own vehicle, I probably would've taken the plunge! 😊
"I'll be jiggered." Old Russian expression... :) I have a collection of smashed up cheap sockets I've wailed on with a hammer doing u-joints... I've got to get one of those fancy presses! Thanks, Ivan!
They really didn't want anyone repairing it, they don't know your determination :), For the "almost out" caps i thought about visegrips or use a small chisel plus small hammer and tap tap around the cap at a low angle.
I was thinking the same thing but he would have a hell of a time pressing them out if he ripped them up without getting them out. Once you distort them, there is no going back.
John Ferguson Yes that's true, it depends on the person being carefull really. If he went in with a big hammer, it's obvious what would happen. Patience goes a long way :-D, i've removed locked bearings from brittle housings by using a soft drift and tapping gentle around the outside in tiny steps, never rush it, and drink loads of tea. Tea is optional :-D
I usually grab them with these giant Channellocks I've got, and gently tap with hammer ... but they'll normally slip off and inevitably smash my fingers between the handles ... and then they get thrown across the shop. Can never seem to keep my fingers out of pinch points ... 😂
Ivan- the Zerk goes on the one cap- the plug is for the middle, to let air escape while filling, to ensure all ends of the Trunnion are properly filled (like air bleeding a cooling system) That is for the initial filling, one time before assembly. The plug is installed one time.
I guessed you missed the part where she complained about a noise, and he kept putting it off, until it got serious! Then he took it off, found out what the noise was, and it turned out to be destroyed, several times over! So, he removed the rear drive shaft, and she's been driving about on the front drive wheels, all summer!! Now, he's fixing a worn out and destroyed driveshaft, that's been sitting around long enough to be covered by cob webs, and to need a permit from the historical society to do any work on it, and it must go back together in a PERIOD CORRECT style!!
Have exact same problem with a 1986 nissan 300zx. Was told no way to repair the driveshaft. Have to order a new driveshaft ($500 to $700). SO, how do I measure the original joint so I can order a new type. Would appreciate any help.
i have a 2011 in the bay and i ordered that part number in spicer, they said they didnt have moog some reason ...anyrate that u joints to small didnt work now im in a prediciment
Ivan: Can't drive the All-Trac with the rear drive-shaft disconnected or the Center Differential set in "locked" position. I tried removing the shaft to get better mileage during the no snow months...car wont move as the Center Differential is tied into the passenger-side CV joint. My Corolla All-Trac does not do to well when it comes to MPG (considering the little econobox weighs like around just below 2,800lbs).....low 20s around town in putt-putt mode....28-29 the most with the cruise set at 65-70 mph. Regular FWD Corolla (sedan or wagon) will easily do just under 35mpg at a steady cruise of 65-70........my friend has a FWD Corolla (same year,but utilizing the different body style for the FWD versions.)....her MPG smokes mine.
Ivan: It's different indeed...what's even funkier is the asymmetrical Ring& Pinion gear ratios that tow the 5% line....you can actually feel the bind in the drive-train easily when trying to coast down a real steep grade...the car will sometimes speed-up a little bit or just maintain the speed it was going in 5th gear . Supposedly, Toyota chose asymmetrical gearing to get the desired 70% front/ rear 30% Torque split. On dry pavement...the car plows/under-steers around corners taking it hard....almost impossible to kick the back-end around like a normal Full-Time "high" 4WD pickup,jeep,etc. under full throttle going around corners.And although it uses the same trusty gearbox as a regular Corolla, Celica,Camry,etc....it differs in one aspect; It has a oil pump and external pipe cooler that works off the lay-shaft in the trans-axle. On your U-joint job on the Rogue....I would have just busted-out the angle grinder....problem solved in seconds...and when a press is not available C-Clamps with sockets/and or a vice will get the job done very quickly to.
Gee, I hope that's not a trend with new vehicles. Probably is. You wouldn't think saving the cost of four snap rings would be worth it, so it is probably something to do with easier robotic assembly. I wonder if they balance the shaft after the U joints are in place.
don't forget, this is 8 snap rings on this one drive shaft, and how many of these drive shafts have they made. Even at one-tenth of a penny saved on each is a noticeable savings for them. You do small savings like this all over a car, and it starts to add up really quickly.
one of the most important parts for balance is keeping the flange and shaft in same relation, i've never used a marker, I use a scribe/marking stamp and give them a permanent tag :)
I have to replace the middle one (only has one) in my 2002 Holden Commodore as it's done 340,000 kilometres & 2 of the caps are flogged out. I ordered one to suit a Mitsubishi Delica (aka Express) van which is close (76.8 × 25mm) & I'm going to deburr the staked in parts of the joint. I've already replaced the centre bearing but I didn't replace the universal joint as there was nothing wrong with it a couple of years ago. I'm pretty sure that the bore is 23.8mm in size so the best I can do is Dremel grind or sand the yoke out so it's a press fit,I'm looking to pin the caps in place or maybe tack weld the cap in to stop it from moving inside the yoke. That's next weekends job hopefully,as the universal joint is still on order & I need to replace one of the original CV joints,as well as adjust the handbrake shoes. I worked today as well (Saturday in Australia).
Hi Ivan ; You mentioned you had the same issue with a 1998 mazda MPV drive shaft u joint. I have the same problem on my 1998 mpv. Do you remember what substitute u joint they used on yours ?
Great question. Sorry I don't remember it's been a while. Just measure the dimensions of the original ujoint and do a Google search for a cross reference :)
boy you like to struggle!!!! a lot of times you can easily spread those ears or bend them in making the bore alignments off. also on smaller u-joints the cross will bottom on the inside of the ears mangling the material over causing more clean up. on a lot of the auto u joints use your ball joint press. so much easier. but the best way i've found---- take the torch and cut the cross out. then you can either carefully cut the caps out or you can push them into the center. this preserves the bores and makes less clean up time. you can assemble the new ones with the ball joint press a vice or a socket and hammer, being careful not to drop a needle.
I have a question. I removed the driveshaft for rogue 2011 to install new one . There is arrow on the bracket that holds the middle bearing . Now I’m struggling with this . Is this arrow going towards the transmission or is it going toward the back box ? Anyone knows . I appreciate the help
We have a 2013 Nissan Rogue AWD and the primary drive is supposed to be front wheel drive. When it goes into AWD the rear wheels kick in ? So the car should go without the rear drive shaft.
The viscous coupling is at the rear diff, so there is always some power transfer to the rear wheels. Better snow performance than a "on demand" system like the CRV.
I think you mentioned clips in the package? If so that's what'll hold the new u-joint cups in from the inside. GM does it the clip way after you melt theirs out of course. Extra word of advice, take it to a driveline service shop afterwards and pay the $30-$40 to have it balanced and remind your viewers especially the ones with the plastic holding the cups in like GM that it's best to always have the driveshaft balanced after replacing any u-joint to help prolong the life of it.
I recently replaced the u-joints on my 2005 Nissan Armada with 95k miles. It had a horrible vibration. I have a dial that switches from 2WD to AWD to 4WD to 4WDLow. Do you think the car could have been driven in AWD with the shaft removed?
Japanese have no clue what timing a driveshaft is all about. 86 subaru wagon developed a vibration during a long distance dirt road excursion, I was driving. Kept thinking that it sounds just like an out of time driveshaft, getting worse and worse all along and finally got so bad I had to pull over and take a look at 2 AM with a mild blizzard in the making. I was right but the correction required that the driveshaft be cut free from one end and turned so that it's sections could then be timed correctly as subaru had made it wrong in the first place. I still can not believe my eyes. Had purchased a set of ujoints to repair the rear shaft with just as Ivan is doing here, but never got around to getting that done and/or figuring out how to correct the mistake made by subaru before the car died of head gaskets.
@@leebarnes655 It's wear and tear. My sister's Porsche Cayenne had the same issue at around 80k miles. She paid over $2k for the the driveshaft to be replaced. The driveshaft on my Armada was badly rusted but I just replaced the u-joints for around $50. It solved the problem.
The Nissan u-joint is staked in, the replacements will be held in with clips. To stake things in, you just take a hammer and paunch/chisel to deform the metal in the area the parts connect together.
I had a 1974 BMW 2002 years ago that had the same BS, but could not find just the U joints . Ended up buying the whole drive shaft for an arm and a leg. If they are going to stake in the U joints, they could at least install a zerk fitting.
I'll never forget the day when I was sitting at an intersection, waiting for the light to change. Across the intersection was a dump truck that was full of gravel. The light changed, the truck began to make a left turn, and then ..... the truck's drive shaft fell out of the back of the engine. (No, I'm not kidding.) Everyone -- including the truck's driver -- just sat at the intersection, looking in amazement at the dump truck.
Ivan why do they make everything so difficult. Guess they are engineering these cars nowadays to eliminate DIYERS and make the stockholders richer, but never underestimate a DIYer. Where there's a will there's a way. Great removal. Ivan is that a harbor freight press? I just bought their Daytona 3ton floor jack because of the height. It extends to ( 23" raised). Works great. Waiting for part 2. Do you have any stickers for purchase? 👍👍👍
Better than the chevy idea of gluing them in, I use a torch and cut them into pieces, and then press the caps out. Same thing for normal joints when they won't budge. I consider non-servicable items trash, and people still buy them thinking "It's such a nice ride" You would have to kill me to get my 95 Dodge V-10, I can keep it going forever. Auto makers don't want "Forever vehicles", they want to sell a new one in five years.
i had never known of the term 'staked in'. i'm here because the front drive shaft on my nissan stagea is 'staked in' and buggered. i'd never seen 'staked in' unis before. and no grease nipples on the joints. ive never had a car that had oem uni joints with grease nipples.
So far in 210k miles: 2 ujoints, 2 balljoints, 2 front hubs, 2 sway bar links, 2 rear sway bar bushings, one seat weight sensor (bypassed), one vent solenoid (fixed), and one CVT.... Not bad, except the CVT part lol
Yeah, most technicians I will drive vehicle yank that rear dry shaft, make it a front wheel drive and go down the road. Save some gas. Don’t worry about it. Put the new joint in it later.
I used a HOT WRENCH, SCREW THAT PUSHING THIS WAY PUSHING THAT WAY BULL. You should have soaked them in some type of fluid sine it was sitting there so long. I did the same thing to my 97 grand Cherokee, they put an adhesive on their u-joints. Started to bend the ears on the shaft they were so tight, why they do this ? MONEY I GUESS ? Everything is disposable just buy new DON'T FIX IT BULL.
Exactly...I do this every time. Don't f**k around with pressing. By the time you've pressed the cups out you'd already had the spider cut and ready to install new joints, especially if rusted.
man that was worn . will be good if can get the moog fitted and greaseable . can't complain at oem too much with over 200K service, non service concept does suck :-/
The ONLY thing in the driveline that was balanced is the shaft itself. The flanges are not part of that process. So, marking them makes zero sense and only wastes time and ink. Not to mention that the shaft is balanced by the shaft manufacturer, not the automobile manufacturer or the guys on the assembly line.
Great video Ivan.and thank you for taking the time to show how it's done looking forward to part two.
Ivan: "Non-serviceable? Hold my borscht."
LOL Very true.
🤣
CO Jones OSCAR AWARD WINNING COMMENT of the day!!
great video... can you let me know the exact u-joint part number to get please? I have the exact same problem.
The ebay part is probably a Rockford 430-11A. It's easy to install, but with the angled, unmachined surface of the driveshaft, only a small fraction of the snap rings touch, and on some driveshafts (like mine) there may still be a gap allowing side to side play. The Spicer 5-3201X has a larger cross with the proper cap size that extends deeper into the cap holes and probably would have prevented the failure that Ivan experienced in the follow-up video, and may have even worked on his damaged driveshaft, but since the grooves are spaced too wide, centering and securing the caps are up to you. The large cross is a very tight fit that may require light filing of the u-joint forging marks to install. I centered by sight, checked on the car with an angle gauge, then tack welded the caps. If you are comfortable doing this, I think it's a more robust part. A slightly smaller cross than the Spicer, maybe easier to find, and no filing is the Rockford 430-11, or the even smaller TUS-11. If you want the easiest install, check out the Rockford 430-11A and its rebrands and clones, possibly a Pronto PT430-11A or TUS-11A, but you may have the same failure shown in the follow-up video.
Chevy was gluing the u-joints for a number of years now. Had to heat with a torch to get the glue out then press or hammer out the joints. Had snap ring groove for standard clips when putting back together.
makes sense that with the driveshaft out the car is still drivable. the rogue is primarily a front drive car and the driveshaft is only used when the going gets slippery.
hope you use the u joint with the zerk fittings so you can lube it once in a while (yet in reality forget to do it).
Ivan, I've done hundreds of drive shaft u joints replacements. They're so easy to do. Lol. I use press, vice, hammer whatever available lol. I've always bought MOOG part. Slightly expensive ones. As I know they last long time. I had really horrible vibration on my suburban. I replaced all of them on front and rear drive lines. 4 of them. Problem went away:) I need to do my blazer as well. Lol
It is nice when the OEM actually makes them "replaceable". These staked ones are a pain in the ass lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yep. Hahaha. Most are
it's been five years since you commented but I'm curious if you've done any that are three piece (two bearing hangers) and if those had vibration issues. Thank you!
I would have used an angle grinder to cut out the centre piece of the UJ, then press the remaining two bits out, would have saved a bunch of time. Thanks for sharing,
Like your shirt lol. Ivan to the rescue and one way to ensure they dont move is a couple tig tacks. I bet alot of shafts that get thrown out could be saved.
I usually cut old joint off with angle grinder(after i get the flange off)Saves time and effort :)
I have the exact same press! Looks identical with the same faded orange, and makes the same funny sounds when you release pressure, LOL. Bought it about 9 years ago from the good ol' Harbor "Fright". 😁
I had a Toyota Highlander come in here with the same style driveshaft, except that there were 3 u-joints, 2 carrier bearings, and one CV joint in the center. I'd like to beat the engineer who designed this thing with his driveshaft! I took one look at this unwieldy 6-foot long contraption, and said, frigg this! I ordered a new shaft, LOL. My press is in the crowded old section of my shop - I've got so much crap piled up in there it's ridiculous. Been trying to fix and sell things off, but there aren't enough hours in the day. Making SLOOOOW progress there. Anyway, that driveshaft would've been sitting on top of my ATV seat, while I'm squeezed in a doorway fumbling with the press, sockets, and all that. Glad I threw in the towel ahead of time on that one! Next project is excavating that press and moving it into the new shop. It's only got to go 10 feet ... but it's a crowded 10 feet, LOL!
At first, I did a search for U-joints, and came up with nothing but uncertainty - I didn't want to get halfway through the job and find out the replacements were wrong. Didn't seem to be very many people tackling this on the net at the time. I remember seeing things that weren't 100% direct fit, and these things were so wasted, I didn't want to get into measuring worn out crap. I got the shaft assembly off Amazon, and installed it for HALF of what the dealer wanted for the shaft itself, so the customer was happy. 👍👍 Now if it was my own vehicle, I probably would've taken the plunge! 😊
No idea why but u-joints freak me out a bit 😂 Good job Ivan! Amanda will be happy ☺️
"I'll be jiggered." Old Russian expression... :) I have a collection of smashed up cheap sockets I've wailed on with a hammer doing u-joints... I've got to get one of those fancy presses! Thanks, Ivan!
Actually I think I stole that one from Eric O too haha
I can't wait til part three!
Ivan puts those U joints in a worn out Subaru, to get another 300k miles!!
My neighbor got rid of a Nissan because of this the dealer could never fix this go figure Good Job!
LOL oh well!
They really didn't want anyone repairing it, they don't know your determination :),
For the "almost out" caps i thought about visegrips or use a small chisel plus small hammer and tap tap around the cap at a low angle.
I was thinking the same thing but he would have a hell of a time pressing them out if he ripped them up without getting them out. Once you distort them, there is no going back.
John Ferguson
Yes that's true, it depends on the person being carefull really.
If he went in with a big hammer, it's obvious what would happen.
Patience goes a long way :-D, i've removed locked bearings from brittle housings by using a soft drift and tapping gentle around the outside in tiny steps, never rush it, and drink loads of tea.
Tea is optional :-D
instead of a hammer you could go to the south main auto method of using big nasty.
michael adams
Ooow nasty, there would be nothing left lol :-D
I usually grab them with these giant Channellocks I've got, and gently tap with hammer ... but they'll normally slip off and inevitably smash my fingers between the handles ... and then they get thrown across the shop. Can never seem to keep my fingers out of pinch points ... 😂
Interesting DIY fix here Ivan. I like that you're going rogue on this one. Take that Nissan!
Ivan- the Zerk goes on the one cap- the plug is for the middle, to let air escape while filling, to ensure all ends of the Trunnion are properly filled (like air bleeding a cooling system) That is for the initial filling, one time before assembly. The plug is installed one time.
That Nissan seems to be in the "shop" a lot. She's lucky she has a good mechanic.
opl500 Well Nissan is one of the worst made cars in the world other than Chrysler. Always go with Toyota or Ford
Sad thing is, it didn't used to be that way. The B210 was an underpowered turd but it was legendary for how reliable it was and how well it was built.
opl500 yeah I know. Nissan used to be a well made car back in the day but I blame Renault for their quality over the years
I guessed you missed the part where she complained about a noise, and he kept putting it off, until it got serious! Then he took it off, found out what the noise was, and it turned out to be destroyed, several times over! So, he removed the rear drive shaft, and she's been driving about on the front drive wheels, all summer!! Now, he's fixing a worn out and destroyed driveshaft, that's been sitting around long enough to be covered by cob webs, and to need a permit from the historical society to do any work on it, and it must go back together in a PERIOD CORRECT style!!
Ford ! you got be kidding lol . some of the older Nissans are bullet proof engineering .
Have exact same problem with a 1986 nissan 300zx. Was told no way to repair the driveshaft. Have to order a new driveshaft ($500 to $700). SO, how do I measure the original joint so I can order a new type. Would appreciate any help.
I remember doing these back in the 1980s. I've still git the kit for setting it up.
Made by Mopar and came as a joint kit
i have a 2011 in the bay and i ordered that part number in spicer, they said they didnt have moog some reason ...anyrate that u joints to small didnt work now im in a prediciment
Would a u joint press have worked ? Meaning the big c clamp tool
Ivan:
Can't drive the All-Trac with the rear drive-shaft disconnected or the Center Differential set in "locked" position. I tried removing the shaft to get better mileage during the no snow months...car wont move as the Center Differential is tied into the passenger-side CV joint.
My Corolla All-Trac does not do to well when it comes to MPG (considering the little econobox weighs like around just below 2,800lbs).....low 20s around town in putt-putt mode....28-29 the most with the cruise set at 65-70 mph. Regular FWD Corolla (sedan or wagon) will easily do just under 35mpg at a steady cruise of 65-70........my friend has a FWD Corolla (same year,but utilizing the different body style for the FWD versions.)....her MPG smokes mine.
Interesting design! Yeah my buddies 96 Geo Prizm aka Corolla will get 35mpg all day long even just commuting to work!
Ivan:
It's different indeed...what's even funkier is the asymmetrical Ring& Pinion gear ratios that tow the 5% line....you can actually feel the bind in the drive-train easily when trying to coast down a real steep grade...the car will sometimes speed-up a little bit or just maintain the speed it was going in 5th gear .
Supposedly, Toyota chose asymmetrical gearing to get the desired 70% front/ rear 30% Torque split. On dry pavement...the car plows/under-steers around corners taking it hard....almost impossible to kick the back-end around like a normal Full-Time "high" 4WD pickup,jeep,etc. under full throttle going around corners.And although it uses the same trusty gearbox as a regular Corolla, Celica,Camry,etc....it differs in one aspect; It has a oil pump and external pipe cooler that works off the lay-shaft in the trans-axle.
On your U-joint job on the Rogue....I would have just busted-out the angle grinder....problem solved in seconds...and when a press is not available C-Clamps with sockets/and or a vice will get the job done very quickly to.
Gee, I hope that's not a trend with new vehicles. Probably is. You wouldn't think saving the cost of four snap rings would be worth it, so it is probably something to do with easier robotic assembly. I wonder if they balance the shaft after the U joints are in place.
Yeah I'm sure the balancing procedure is the final step in shaft assembly :)
I know Subarus have had staked joints for years.
don't forget, this is 8 snap rings on this one drive shaft, and how many of these drive shafts have they made. Even at one-tenth of a penny saved on each is a noticeable savings for them. You do small savings like this all over a car, and it starts to add up really quickly.
Hello Ivan, how about cutting it with a grinder. I did it once.
one of the most important parts for balance is keeping the flange and shaft in same relation, i've never used a marker, I use a scribe/marking stamp and give them a permanent tag :)
Is that a Ford V-4 block sitting next to your garage wall?
I have to replace the middle one (only has one) in my 2002 Holden Commodore as it's done 340,000 kilometres & 2 of the caps are flogged out.
I ordered one to suit a Mitsubishi Delica (aka Express) van which is close (76.8 × 25mm) & I'm going to deburr the staked in parts of the joint.
I've already replaced the centre bearing but I didn't replace the universal joint as there was nothing wrong with it a couple of years ago.
I'm pretty sure that the bore is 23.8mm in size so the best I can do is Dremel grind or sand the yoke out so it's a press fit,I'm looking to pin the caps in place or maybe tack weld the cap in to stop it from moving inside the yoke.
That's next weekends job hopefully,as the universal joint is still on order & I need to replace one of the original CV joints,as well as adjust the handbrake shoes.
I worked today as well (Saturday in Australia).
Thanks for the comment, Russell! Keep the old cars rolling!
I've done that. Get my driving socket stuck in the bore... luckily never too bad to where it couldn't be removed.
I always wear my goggles when doing anything on the press as well. I've had things fly up & off.
Yeah that's a lot of potential energy waiting to be released!
Hi Ivan ; You mentioned you had the same issue with a 1998 mazda MPV drive shaft u joint. I have the same problem on my
1998 mpv. Do you remember what substitute u joint they used on yours ?
Great question. Sorry I don't remember it's been a while. Just measure the dimensions of the original ujoint and do a Google search for a cross reference :)
boy you like to struggle!!!! a lot of times you can easily spread those ears or bend them in making the bore alignments off. also on smaller u-joints the cross will bottom on the inside of the ears mangling the material over causing more clean up. on a lot of the auto u joints use your ball joint press. so much easier. but the best way i've found---- take the torch and cut the cross out. then you can either carefully cut the caps out or you can push them into the center. this preserves the bores and makes less clean up time. you can assemble the new ones with the ball joint press a vice or a socket and hammer, being careful not to drop a needle.
Great suggestions! I wanted to get the caps out to the outside so they would clean up the existing stakes, making the new caps slide in easier.
Hey only 20k left on that new CVT. Time to sell it. I said kibbles and bits exactly one second before you did lol.
Why is that, how many miles is expected from a nissan rogue? I have a 2012 rogue with 103k on it, I' m worry now
I have a question. I removed the driveshaft for rogue 2011 to install new one . There is arrow on the bracket that holds the middle bearing . Now I’m struggling with this . Is this arrow going towards the transmission or is it going toward the back box ? Anyone knows . I appreciate the help
We have a 2013 Nissan Rogue AWD and the primary drive is supposed to be front wheel drive. When it goes into AWD the rear wheels kick in ? So the car should go without the rear drive shaft.
Richard Bricker yes, rear traction is only on demand
The viscous coupling is at the rear diff, so there is always some power transfer to the rear wheels. Better snow performance than a "on demand" system like the CRV.
I think you mentioned clips in the package? If so that's what'll hold the new u-joint cups in from the inside. GM does it the clip way after you melt theirs out of course.
Extra word of advice, take it to a driveline service shop afterwards and pay the $30-$40 to have it balanced and remind your viewers especially the ones with the plastic holding the cups in like GM that it's best to always have the driveshaft balanced after replacing any u-joint to help prolong the life of it.
Napa sold me a kit to replace staked u joints in an f150. It comes with a cutter that cuts the stakes out of the yoke
die grinder with carbide ball bit, just don't go too crazy and eat a ton away unevenly or you'll kill the balance.
The suspense is killing me. How did you get the joints in without clips?
I recently replaced the u-joints on my 2005 Nissan Armada with 95k miles. It had a horrible vibration. I have a dial that switches from 2WD to AWD to 4WD to 4WDLow. Do you think the car could have been driven in AWD with the shaft removed?
Japanese have no clue what timing a driveshaft is all about. 86 subaru wagon developed a vibration during a long distance dirt road excursion, I was driving. Kept thinking that it sounds just like an out of time driveshaft, getting worse and worse all along and finally got so bad I had to pull over and take a look at 2 AM with a mild blizzard in the making. I was right but the correction required that the driveshaft be cut free from one end and turned so that it's sections could then be timed correctly as subaru had made it wrong in the first place. I still can not believe my eyes. Had purchased a set of ujoints to repair the rear shaft with just as Ivan is doing here, but never got around to getting that done and/or figuring out how to correct the mistake made by subaru before the car died of head gaskets.
@@leebarnes655 It's wear and tear. My sister's Porsche Cayenne had the same issue at around 80k miles. She paid over $2k for the the driveshaft to be replaced. The driveshaft on my Armada was badly rusted but I just replaced the u-joints for around $50. It solved the problem.
Another example of high quality Japanese engineering.
Thanks for offering the safety glasses but I already had mine on,I'm no fool😜
Result of the unholy Union of Nissan and Renault.
who else was screaming at the screen GET VISE GRIPS AND TWIST THEM CAPS OUT
Improvise nice ivan mucho patience
I love it. "Non serviceable" is not in your vocabulary.
Since this u-joint doesn't have clips to keep it from moving, how does it stay in place?
Bighead after they press it in they take a chisel and stake it in by deforming the side rings slightly in a few places.
Circlips on the inside
I would like to see the staking process. I can't wait for part 2.
Bighead - they're staked all around the cap. No clips on this design.
The Nissan u-joint is staked in, the replacements will be held in with clips. To stake things in, you just take a hammer and paunch/chisel to deform the metal in the area the parts connect together.
Love it man good job
I had a 1974 BMW 2002 years ago that had the same BS, but could not find just the U joints . Ended up buying the whole drive shaft for an arm and a leg. If they are going to stake in the U joints, they could at least install a zerk fitting.
Aren't presses wonderful? Its always nice to service a non-serviceable part.
Hi are you doing I'm Moise Jean I have the same problem how can you help me please what state are you in .
I'll never forget the day when I was sitting at an intersection, waiting for the light to change. Across the intersection was a dump truck that was full of gravel. The light changed, the truck began to make a left turn, and then ..... the truck's drive shaft fell out of the back of the engine. (No, I'm not kidding.)
Everyone -- including the truck's driver -- just sat at the intersection, looking in amazement at the dump truck.
Do u have a part number ?
Ivan why do they make everything so difficult. Guess they are engineering these cars nowadays to eliminate DIYERS and make the stockholders richer, but never underestimate a DIYer. Where there's a will there's a way. Great removal. Ivan is that a harbor freight press? I just bought their Daytona 3ton floor jack because of the height. It extends to ( 23" raised). Works great. Waiting for part 2. Do you have any stickers for purchase? 👍👍👍
Don't think they even think of the stockholders with the pathetic dividends they pay out. Its all about boardroom and executive pay these days
@@andrewthompsonuk1 Yes you are correct. I used stockholders when you nailed it. Boardroom greed
torch the flange....it helps alot to expand it with heat
Mr. Ivan, I was waiting for you to just cut the cross (spider).
I can't do part 2, I'll check back in a few years.... probably not.
Better than the chevy idea of gluing them in, I use a torch and cut them into pieces, and then press the caps out.
Same thing for normal joints when they won't budge.
I consider non-servicable items trash, and people still buy them thinking "It's such a nice ride"
You would have to kill me to get my 95 Dodge V-10, I can keep it going forever.
Auto makers don't want "Forever vehicles", they want to sell a new one in five years.
torch out the center,push out the cap
Wouldn't want to risk deforming those small delicate yokes!
Ivan if you clamp the caps in a vice you can then tap the shaft up with a hammer and the cups will come out, i have done several...Fred in Uk.
7:23 That's good!!! (pause).... I think that's good??????
Me, during half the repairs I attempt..... Hahahaha! At least I'm not alone....
Good job!
Ivan your press blocks had half rounds cut in them and you could have stood them upright each side ;o)
i had never known of the term 'staked in'. i'm here because the front drive shaft on my nissan stagea is 'staked in' and buggered. i'd never seen 'staked in' unis before. and no grease nipples on the joints. ive never had a car that had oem uni joints with grease nipples.
This is why you use a arbor press or at least a vice unless it's your car.
We send ours to a prop shaft (driveshaft) repair shop that will cut off and weld on a new universal joint.
A called a Place today.They were charging me $550.My Truck looks like it costs $500 lol
That Nissan has been through some parts by now!
So far in 210k miles: 2 ujoints, 2 balljoints, 2 front hubs, 2 sway bar links, 2 rear sway bar bushings, one seat weight sensor (bypassed), one vent solenoid (fixed), and one CVT.... Not bad, except the CVT part lol
why wouldnt it be better to heat the yoke around the cap it may be easier to remove but not red hot
ford has the same system they make a tool to cut the stakes and new joint has clips
It says Nissan on the front but its soul is pure Renault. The car wasn't built to go more than 170 k miles.
Well I'm going to make it go 400k!
Yokey Bear to the rescue!!!
nice
Wheres the smoke wrench
OMG. Dude, put the cap that is sticking out in a vise, and hit shaft. Pops right off.
Car's supposed to be all wheel drive Ivan.
I would of used a cutting torch at the very end and cut the cross. 👍
My dad who is an old school mechanic is telling me to do this but ehhh this seems like a lot. I will just replace the driveshaft lol.
You sound exactly like Chrisfix
That's where our similarities end 🤣
If someone assembled it, it can be repaired. just need to be careful.
Second😉
DiagnoseDan HAHAHA! Second!
That's can only mean "DIAGNOSE DAN, MISSED FIRST, AGAIN"!
Yeah, most technicians I will drive vehicle yank that rear dry shaft, make it a front wheel drive and go down the road. Save some gas. Don’t worry about it. Put the new joint in it later.
I think it's called a trunnion.
I used a HOT WRENCH, SCREW THAT PUSHING THIS WAY PUSHING THAT WAY BULL. You should have soaked them in some type of fluid sine it was sitting there so long. I did the same thing to my 97 grand Cherokee, they put an adhesive on their u-joints. Started to bend the ears on the shaft they were so tight, why they do this ? MONEY I GUESS ? Everything is disposable just buy new DON'T FIX IT BULL.
Wrong!!! The caps dont have to be at the same exact location..new caps may be longer , joint itself may be just a bit bigger
Should have watched ChrisFix video on how to tell if you have bad u joints.. lol
How about just cutting the spider out with a cutting wheel
Exactly...I do this every time. Don't f**k around with pressing. By the time you've pressed the cups out you'd already had the spider cut and ready to install new joints, especially if rusted.
Or Sawzall.
Yeah somethings wrong honey.. Drive it a couple more months and see if it smooths itself out!
Your poor wife has to wait forever to get her car fixed.
man that was worn .
will be good if can get the moog fitted and greaseable .
can't complain at oem too much with over 200K service, non service concept does suck :-/
My wife has an Infiniti and I have come to believe that I don't care much for Nissan engineering.
The ONLY thing in the driveline that was balanced is the shaft itself. The flanges are not part of that process. So, marking them makes zero sense and only wastes time and ink. Not to mention that the shaft is balanced by the shaft manufacturer, not the automobile manufacturer or the guys on the assembly line.
BLUE SCISSORS
like mrs o s belt squek. ill get to it lol.
Be real careful using Chrome sockets like that they will explode on you
Try DETROIT AXLE next time.
My wife would say i gotta go just torch it out and press in new one my boyfriend is waiting at motel 6
staked "ewwww" joint :))
Need to bring your Trabant form Russia for wife to drive.
It's a ZAZ! And only seasoned Soviet drivers can handle that contraption haha
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics when are we going to see more of the ZAZ and Russia 🇷🇺?
99 cents !?!? :-)
haha no more monetized vids on TH-cam...otherwise of course haha!
$1000.00 for a drive shaft
What about a mechanic let a ujoint get that bad, dont think i want him taking care of my car....Wow !!!
LOL!