Bathroom Renovation #6 - Elements Board
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2019
- Sponsored by Abacus bathrooms, the bathroom is starting to take shape and with the Elements board covering up the stud work, plumbing and wiring, a real sense of progress is hitting the team.
Jubi is back to help Roger with the Abacus Elements board which he loves working with.
Special thanks go to Abacus for supporting this series: www.abacus-bathrooms.co.uk
Tools and materials used in this video series:
Abacus Elements Ultimate Construction Board - bit.ly/2MepRo5
Abacus Emotion Round Shower Head - bit.ly/2zk6mTu
Abacus Fix-MD Sealing & Mounting Adhesive - bit.ly/2P0Fm1E
Abacus Infinity Single Fall Tray - bit.ly/2TyOooS
Abacus No More Leaks Bath & Shower Sealing Kits - bit.ly/2OZ2fCn
Abacus Pro-Seal Tape Sealing Compound - bit.ly/2OXvRA9
Abacus Temptation Chrome Wall Arm - bit.ly/2AaPvSt
Abacus Temptation Thermostatic Shower Mixer - bit.ly/2OWXVm3
Abacus X Series Designer Glass to Wall Support Arm - bit.ly/2zkx0vx
Abacus X Series Glass Panel - bit.ly/2PK0Nrt
Fein MultiMaster - bit.ly/2vvZpMW
Hansgrohe iBox Universal - bit.ly/2FJlDTc
Hultafors HBX Saw Blade - bit.ly/2MhKtf7
Imex LX3DG Line Laser Level - bit.ly/2qXpf9Z
KEAH Pipe Chamfer Tool - bit.ly/2TT8Lwy
Makita DJR188 18v Recip Saw - bit.ly/2DKeNKl
Milwaukee M12 BDDX Sub Compact Drill - bit.ly/2MzA0ss
Milwaukee RED STICK - bit.ly/2vybKQW
Monument 2600K Copper Pipe Bender 15mm & 22mm - bit.ly/2AbfcCF
Tacklife AHS02C Diamond Coated Core Hole Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/2KmuYiB
#ElementsBoard #renovation #bathroom
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Roger Bisby a complete joy to watch and to learn.
Agreed.....such a great communicator from "the old school brigade".
British Standards Institute (BSI) for BS 5385-1 (wall and floor tiling in normal internal conditions), In clause 6.1.1.3, the standard states that ‘In wet areas … substrates should be protected with a suitable proprietary tanking membrane system’. It further declares that ‘the weight capacity of the tanking system should be capable of carrying the load of the tiles and adhesive’. All substrates within a wet area should now be waterproofed before tiling, even in domestic locations. This means this method shown here is now part of the British Building Standard and should be done on all new bathroom installation or refits.
Your reaction to them at noise mad me laugh twice 😅😂
I love Roger's stud finding.
I sometimes follow the existing screws as they should follow the studs. Even screw some out to make sure they aren't just catching the edge of a stud or have missed the stud on original install.
Abacus Elements board is as good as you'll ever need. Top notch gear from Abacus. Can't think of a single advantage cement board has over Elements.
Loving this series
Before boarding up I take photos of all the walls just in case I have to make a reference check.
Good tip
I bloody love this channel!
We bloody love you too
@@SkillBuilder
An you!!!
Used some today.....i love cement board, leave the drywall for the plasterers ;)
Love your video-lessons, even this LEGO-video :-) (Greetz from Holland)
LIttle hand man is back!
Great video, do you finish the element board behind the tray to the floor or on top of the tray?
Using Elements Board as we speak. B&Q just started selling a very similar system with the no more leaks shower kit also.
i noticed the elements kit give a few more products in there kit - is there much difference in price?
Those Wilko's stud finders are great aren't they?
Hi Roger, love your videos. I’m putting in a Abacus Elements wetroom tray. What size and type of ply do you use between the joists for support? Thanks
Firstly, love the videos, I've been watching quite a few in advance of tackling a shower renovation with new tray, boards and tiles etc....
I will be ripping out the old plasterboard and replacing into wooden stud via the fixing screws.
What thickness of Abacus Elements Board would you suggest for a tiled shower enclosure? 6, 10 or 12mm?
Thanks in advance.
PTFE = Plumbers Tape For Everything 👍
Hi Roger, I don't know if this is overkill. Can you use Elements board for the bathroom ceiling, and if so, can you install PCV bathroom panels onto it?
hi, what stud centres does this work with? I see where the wc frame is it is bigger than 300mm? thank you
My dad had a much earlier version of that very stud finder. I think I still have it somewhere.
I stole it and you can have it back. It is useless
If you're doing a longer stretch of wall Rodger would it be an idea to stagger the joint or is that not needed? Love that boarding it's fabulous to work with
Patrick Murray Treat it as you would platerboard!
A little rare earth magnet is all that is needed to find the stud by locating nail / screw heads
Actually I use one all the time but the home owner had that device so I thought I would give it a go.
Bloody hate those stud finders, they seem to be universally useless. Magnets, drill bit and common sense is the best approach.
Great product, but can you butt the elements board up to normal 12.5mm plaster board on the bathroom walls where it's not needed? ie 12.5 mm to 12mm?
yes it is made at those dimensions for that very reason. You can also plaster it in dry areas. It gives you a bit of insulation. We are going to use it on a cellar refurb later in the year.
What is the name of those elements board round fixing screws please.
Elements looks so easy to use.
Great set of videos. Quick question. Can you fit the board directly to a brick wall or would it need to be plasterboarded first then the element board added on top?
Straight on the wall with no need for plasterboard!
How best to secure it? What screws? Obviously these would be different from standard screws that come with the board?
Is there an "R" value on that stuff?
Hi mate, hope your well and thanks for the inspiration!!sorry if this has been asked already but just a quick question did you have stud/timber/noggin support around every board joint, do you need to? Hope that makes sense!
Thanks again for all your amazing effort Keep it up!
Hi Mo. It is best to have noggins on the short end joins. Along the edges there is no need on a 400mm centres wall.
Once the tape is on and it is tiled it becomes firm. A good idea is to gun some polymer adhesive along those board joins so the boards stick together.
@@SkillBuilder thank you for your reply very much appreciated!!
Yes I have my studs 400 centres and laid the boards sideways, I will use the adhesive as you have advised, you recommend anything specific?
or use a magnet to find the screws in the stud?
Do you have to seal the surface of the elements board with a primer prior to tiling?
No!
Hi Roger. I have to stud and board the side wall of my bath as the aqua panels I installed last year have a fault….long story plus the wall isn’t perfectly flat (as usual). Anyway I’ve decided to take the aqua panels down and tile the walls. Only sticking point is that I only have 40mm depth to play with. Do you think if I batten the wall with 10mm thick batten and using 12mm backer board that the 10mm x 300mm x 600mm tiles would be OK? I know it’s hard to say with out seeing but just wanted a rough opinion. Thanks 😊
You can do as you suggest if you put the battens at 400mm centres. You can pack them out so they are flat and you will then be able to screw the tilebacker to the battens. The screws holding the boards on will only be around 20mm so I would gun some Fixall or similar building adhesive down the battens just to make sure. This will support thos tiles with no problem. I think you can put 40 kilos per sq mtr on those boards. Use a cement based tile adhesive that you mix up. The readymix adhesive is no good for that size tile. You could even squirt some expanding foam on the backs of the boards as you fix them up to give you some intermediate extra support. It will be really strong then.
@@SkillBuilder perfect. Thank you very much for your help 👍
Roger what do you think about using Ytong blocks for shower area walls? Would you use those insulated panels on top of it or tile it directly?
I'd definitely always use Elements over thermal blocks. Wouldn't tile direct to thermal blocks.
I suppose it would be better to have the insulation and flatness of the Elements boards, but I doubt if it's worth the effort, price and lost space. I was told you need to impregnate the wall first and then you can tile directly over it.
@@rutgerhoutdijk3547 You will be in trouble if you do that. The blocks need to expand and contract. Best to dot and dab the Elements board and then tile. You are losing just over 12 mm but your tiles will stay on the wall
Thanks for the info, you don’t think a flexible tile adhesive will do the job?
@@rutgerhoutdijk3547 I wouldn't risk it
2:51 heart attack
Can i use adhesive on this ti fix directly to block work or should i pboard first then fix onto the pboard aware will be insulation in between cavity of the two blocks
It is perfect for dot and dab. Check out our shower horror show where we do just this.
Is that board 10mm or the 12mm? Would you recommend one thickness over another? Do you know if Jackoboard or Q board from B&Q is comparable with this Elements board?
It is 12 mm. I wouldn't go any thinner on the walls. It is a similar board to the ones you mention but this is British made
Different dimensions can also be important, as well as what is available locally!
If you turned that stud detector around and faced it towards you, it would detect a stud for sure #RogerSexyMan ….
lol
Lol
Hi Roger
Thanks for the videos.
I find them really useful!
I've been using 12mm hardibacker cement board. What centres can you fix the boards to? Doesn't it flex?
Thanks
Phill
300mm centres recommended for this stuff @12mm
Would you advise using the boards on the ceiling or leave that as Plaster board Roger?
It isn't generally used on ceiling but it is amazingly good to plaster onto.
Excellent thank you for the reply 👍😀
I have seen abacus recommend a minimum thickness of 10mm for the floor which I plan on using. Problem I have is I have replaced one piece of chipboard flooring but I have a 2mm drop where the replaced piece of chipboard is. Can I use one 12mm piece of elements board on the replaced section of flooring and 10mm on the rest of the floor instead of using levelling compound which is messier and more time consuming?
Yes it is perfect to do that. It doesn't matter how you mix the thicknesses
@@SkillBuilder thanks a lot for the quick reply roger. Loft questions will be next !
Are you Adam Faith's 'love child' by any chance?
Duck tape fixes everything, even when you slash your wrists it seems! :)
Yes it is the only one I use when sef-harming which I seem to do regularly
@@SkillBuilder someone needs to develop a flesh coloured duct tape. They have black, but not for us whities.
So funny,lol,
My bathroom needs re-tiling but the walls are all brick, what's the best way to fix these boards to brick wall?
Dot and dab with tile adhesive cement based so it set fast
Can the boards be dot & dabbed or do they need studwork?
This stuff is designed to replace plasterboard and can be treated as such!
Hey guys I normally use 610 wedi joint sealant.
michael dean megabucks! £15 < 300ml, yikes
@@steves1460 Hi Steve, what would you use instead? Thanks
Luis André All this XPS stuff is near-identical and so i guess you can mix and match. Orbry are the cheapest and so take a look at their range. Perhaps CT1, as another alternative, would do? Not in the trade, but not convinced you need to be milked by these overpriced products!
@@steves1460 Thank you very much! :)
Does elements board come in one thickness?
Many different thicknsses
What plug and screw size would you use on rendered block walls? Thanks
It is best to use adhesive then just put a few 50mm no m4 screws in with the washers.
Thank you 🙂
Is the Elements Board similar to Wedi Board? If so, is it better or much the same?
It is identical but cheaper and British made. It has the same fixings and the sizes are the same.
It’s all XPS foam, but Wedi is more sturdy and doesn’t require such close stud-centres as EB. Thing is, it costs a bloody firtune and as for the sealant, well....
Is it suppose to be quite flexible when you push against it? Moves like 1 or 2mm when i push it and screws every 6 inches
That is fine. When you put the tiles on the adhesive grabs the mesh and it is very stiff. Think carbon fibre.
@@SkillBuilder does the same apply to the plaster too?
Can the board be plastered? If so, are there any special things to take into consideration (considering it’s water proof)
Thinking about the bond of plaster
It has a very good bond with plaster so you don't need to worry but you can give it a coat of pva or SBR if you are concerned. I have never bothered.
Hi Roger, I plan on battening out my walls and screwing the Abacus boards into the treated battens because it will help me get all the walls square and true and will be cheaper than using the KST fixing adhesive (which is a lot at £10/m2). Do I need the Abacus Fix-MD Sealing & Mounting Tilebacker Adhesive as well as screws, or can I just use mechanical fixings? Thanks =D
You can screw the boards to the battens without using adhesive and you can use any cement based tile adhesive if you want to dot and dab. Also you can run a bead of polymer adhesive down the joins before you butt them together.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you so much Roger! That's so helpful. I'm thinking of going with the 2.4mx0.9m boards for the shower enclosure (0.9x0.9m) instead of the smaller 0.6x1.2m so there are less joints and I will only need to tape/seal over the screws - it feels like less to get wrong. Would you advise I get the larger boards for the shower enclosure walls?
Thanks roger , I have been looking through your comments for a week looking for this answer, as the question states kst adhesive is so expensive
I seem to recognise the chap fixing the boards on, is he also a cameraman too?
Yes he is a cameraman working mostly on sports events but well known in the industry
Skill Builder I thought so 👍. I’ve worked on the sporting events where he’s been working on too, at least that’s put my mind at rest, thank you.
Hi there, Can we skim that element board with multi finish ?
Yes I have done it many times. Treat it like Artex, let the first coat go off quite a bit. You will get air bubbles from those tiny indents so the second coat is the one that gets rid of them.
@@SkillBuilder
Thanks for your reply
does it needs PVA ?
Plaster straight over element board ?
How should this product be fixed to a brick wall ?
Dot and dab on cement tile adhesive
How would you screw them into brick ?
Dot and dab with cement based tile adhesive.
Easier if you batten the wall off first
Would it be OK to use just adhesive to attach Elements board to plastered walls ?
Yes you could but it depends on how good the plaster is. If you are tiling the board then I like a few screws or hammer plugs
What kind of fixing is being used for the element board?
It is sold with the boards
Gaffer tape first aid kit?
Give it a week and all the top celebs will be wearing that bracelet
@Andrew P I love that feeling when it rips the hairs off my arm.
Can you buy ...that board ..in
full height of room. UK standard size home
2400 mm high
I think I had a near death experience-what WAS that creature of the night, hanging off the cackling Nicola?
Goths don't cope well in bright light. They need propping up in the doorway.
I had one of those stud finders and ended up throwing it out of the window! Useless piece of crap.
It became an open window finder! 😊
Ebay are selling marmox boards which look similar. Can you check them n give a review?
Stick with Elements. Been told before Elements is a better board than Marmox.
[trade review] I've just used 18mm marmox on a job. It cuts nice and easy but that's about the only upside. Even on 300mm rock solid stud centres it's distinctly bouncy and it has the compressive strength of a roll of bog paper when you squeeze it. The only strength in the final wall comes from the composite strength of the tiles adhesive and board together. I'm planning to use Elements next time and if that doesn't impress it'll be no-more-ply instead.
@@juancornetto8243 Exactly mate! Couldn't agree with you more. All these types of boards cut easily. So no advantage there. Marmox is soft and IMHO you have described exactly what I wanted to say perfectly. Elements is as good as you will ever need and I can not think of one advantage cement board has. There is more I could say about Marmox, but I don't think this is the place.
@@juancornetto8243 the b and q stuff is good...20 mm is solid
@Jon Cole. Thanks I'll have a look next time I'm in.
The length of this video did not satisfy my skill builder needs
Tom, the next episode will leave you feeling sated, it's a fatty.
Привет,у Вас реклама Милуоки!?)
Why doesn’t manufacturers make these boards the same thickness as plaster boards ,
Elements board comes in many different thicknesses including 12mm which is the same as plasterboard. I have skim coated the edge to match in the plasterboard and there is no problem.
@@SkillBuilder thanks for taking time to reply
I just wondered why they didn’t make them 9.5 or 12.5 mm the same as plaster board incase you were butting up
Like you said can put a 5mm skim coat to feather the edge to same as plaster board
Wedi 610 anywhere
No all Abacus Elements board
1st