Roger I love watching your videos. I'm a builder myself and it's great to se things being done to such a great standard and cutting no corners. Keep up the good work, Tom
This series of videos is great for me as I am currently refurbing an ensuite shower room using similar insulation boards (jackoboard) and shower valve with diverter similar to the one fitted for the bath so thanks Roger, I look forward to the next one in the series.
Brexit fatigue? just as it gets to the penalty shoot out. Hold your breath, keep your fingers crossed and watch through your fingers and hope your team wins. Whatever the outcome the familiar cry of "We was robbed" will echo across this land.
Great stuff as always mate, I'll be completely honest with you I've cut corners in the past I'm ashamed to say it but is the truth but as times gone on you start working out the right ways to the wrong ways and some homeowners have to bear the brunt of those mistakes but it's people like you that put the likes of me on the straight and narrow, keep up the great content your a good team all of you 👍
It's nice when the bath you fit has the option to place the overflow filler on the outside. Mine was up against the wall and the shenanigans I went through fitting it was no joke.
Logik 100 I agree but, in this particular case, it would have been fine because that wall backs onto some fitted wardrobes and I could have had a nice access panel. The only trouble is that you see the filler as you look at the bath and this way you don't. I spent a good half a day thinking about which to do and I am not sure the decision was the right one but it is done.
I really wished I had the money for this and I would hire you instantly. Fully waterproof bathroom is what I need. Everything has come together nicely 😭
Great video once again roger, I would use an rcbo for wet room or even two to split the lighting from the underfloor heating, a bit over kill but better to be safe.
Bib and braces! That's the whole menswear department at M&S.😂 Nice job. I really enjoy watching your videos, they're very informative and easy to understand and certainly help me tackle projects I'm unsure of.
When you were sealing the elements board joints and corners etc what are the little boxes that have also been treated. There seems to be lots of squares across the boards? I’ve only ever used moisture board but I’m not a trades person but I can really see how this looks so reliable for a non fail bathroom system. 👍
With the elements board on the floor, the adhesive build up, the heating and then the tiles, what makes the transition to the next room look good. Must be a total of 20mm difference in floor level.
The hall has Cloud 9 underlay and carpet so it is around 12mm. The threshold strip is a standard ramp. Not an issue but if it had been I would have put hardboard down in the hall.
@13:10 He says "air admittance valve", for anyone that might want to know. I heard "intermittence valve" in a west country accent 😅 They let air into the system without letting sewer gases out, (my guess) preventing vacuums from forming on one side of the U bend and causing a glugging noise as the bend intermittently lets gas through.
Brilliant videos - thank you. I really admire your thoroughness and attention to detail. Have you ever used one of those wet room kits, but with timber? I know it sounds mad, but I have been in a bathroom with a wooden shower floor and walls - some indestructible exotic hardwood.
Roger, Air Admittance Valve? When should these be installed and when shouldn't they? When to glug and when not to glug?? I've researched how they work but unable to find advice on when to use them in exisiting domestic property refits. Most info is regarding installations in new builds.
Great vid, thank you. I'm a bit confused about the tape, do you use self adhesive tape for the walls and you apply a coat of tanking membrane underneath? Or is it non adhesive tape?
If I'm using a floor-standing WC instead of wall-hung, can i put it on top of the elements board or should I cut out the shape so the loo sits on the subfloor?
You can put it on top of the Elements board. It will squash down minutely but will stop. You could tile the floor and then put the w.c on top, that would be best
Roger, will you be leaving weep holes (small gaps about 40mm long) in the sealant in one or two spots at the base of the wall tiles in the shower? Should any water ever get behind the tile it can then find a way out within the shower. It's very useful when shower enclosures are going to be installed as otherwise the water would eventually find a way out at a corner outside the enclosure and will appear like a bad seal between enclosure, tile and tray.
If the tray panel has a built in fall and you use latex to cover the underfloor heating matt, won't that just defeat the fall built into the tray panel leaving it level rather than sloping into the drain?? PS love the channel and all the videos.
Ronan The self leveller is just trowelled to barely cover the heating elements. If you don't mix it too wet it will not run down the fall so the fall in the tray is maintained
@@SkillBuilder Yes. I use foam all the time. The gun would be the first item I'd replace if all my tools went. For example. Studs out of plumb, foam up, put in a couple of screws top and bottom but don't drive home. Wait a bit check with level until it's gone off then screw properly. I also use it to bed trays. Shim up till perfectly level, damp substrate, foam up and cover with newspaper. Place tray and gently weight. Newspaper means you can lift tray if something goes wrong (has happened to me). Weight of tray and tiling secures and every square inch is supported. Absolutely mandatory if you have an urgent tiling job that needs grouting before the adhesive goes off. Blob tiles, run foam, you can grout in 15 minutes. Have to cut out plasterboard between studs for whatever reason? Cut 3 inch strips of p. board, foam and fix half width behind all round with screws. Wait ten minutes then foam/screw in the replacement board. You can even remove screws if proud. Scrim and skim in another 10 minutes.
@skillbuilder - is that wood floor primer a basic acrylic, and do you have recommendations for primers for hardwood ply before adhesive for waterproof board?
You used the self adhesive waterproof tape round the shower former but used a waterproof past and roll for the rest. Can you use the past and roll round the shower former?
Hi Jason Yes you can use the ProSeal (paste) around the ediges with the flexible neoprene tape. I acutally prefer it because the self-adhesive tape is a little tricky to apply. The problem is that it is too sticky and once it makes contact it is a devil to remove and re-apply. After 8 jobs or so I finally made a decent enough job of it but the blue ProSeal is way more forgiving.
Skill Builder brilliant, thank you for the fast reply. I will continue with the blue pro seal all around. Is the pro seal ok on the plastic on the former near the trap.
Hi, is it alright to fix directly to the floor joists with an adhesive? I am wondering that if the boards will be lifted in the future for re-modelling, will this not damage the floor joists? Can the floor boards be fixed mechanically to resolve this issue?
Hi mate hope you are well, sorry if this has been asked already, but what type of primer are you using on the wooden floor? Also are you only priming the shower area, or the entire floor inc the floor boards? If so how are you sealing the gaps? Do those boards require any additional primer before tiling? Sorry for soo many questions, thanks again for all your time and effort!!
We use multipanel wall boarding for bathrooms at work ...Ur thoughts on this product? Also we always stick shower trays down with plasterboard adhesive...Ur thoughts on this too?
Personally I don't think putting trays down with plasterboard adhesive is a good idea. it's not flexible, better than sand and cement but i would highly recommend using a flexible s1 or even s2 tile adhesive. if the property has any movement the tray could fail, and in a wet room that could be a nightmare! I have used multi panel and it's alright :) i guess its just peoples preference, I prefer tiles. ;)
Phillip I don't understand what plasterboard adhesive achieves. The KST is flexible, non shrink, weight bearing. It is also what the spec calls for. As an side, I keep gypsum out of all wet areas. I don't even like it on shower room ceilings. You can get polymer plasters that have much better water resistance.
"Hey Siri, who is Roger Bisby?" …. "Roger Bisby is an actor who starred in Crocodile Dundee and is also famous for the hit song "Hold the lantern Grandmother, while I shave the chickens lip" …. "Later on in life he started a career In the building industry, but failed miserably"
Bum Custard Yes you are right. He lost all his money and now lives hand to mouth, which considering where he puts his hands, is destined to leave him in the proverbial.
Brilliant vid as always Roger. A quick question - on a stable timber floor, after I build up with tile backer and tank, do I always need a decoupling membrane as well (I'll be doing electric UFH so maybe get a system which has decoupling membrane as part of it)?
9mmm for the Elements board + adhesive so say 10mm and then the tile plus adhesive so probably 21mm. Carpet and underlay in the hall may come up to 15mm so not much of a ramp on the threshold.
I duno, I have a problem with all this new fangled stuff. It increases the cost and the time, which is also increasing the cost. Do you really get a better finish? I've seen so many of these new products that are introduced and then found they had a massive fail. Hardboard masonite siding, EIFS systems, there are loads of class action lawsuits out there against fancy products that installed slowly with precision and experienced, professionals usually works, but in the real world on a jobsite, with Joe mutt installing it the first time, they fail. I guess you could make yourself a name by become a certified installer of some fancy product, but then how many people want to pay the extra expense just to say they used a product that no one else will ever see or care about? I have one question Rog, Why go to all the trouble of painstakingly levelling that board, then put down the underfloor heating and now cover it with a self levelling compound? Seems like you are doubling up on making sure everything is level when that is the purpose of the self levelling compound.
I am not a fan of trying to lift the floor with self leveller. I could have done it and made life easy for myself but that is something I still have to master.The self leveller just fills the gaps between the heating elements and you get a more even heat.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Roger Bisby a complete joy to watch and to learn.
Another cracking video. There can't be many blokes your age that can spend that much time sitting on their legs and still stand up.
I had never thought of that
Roger I love watching your videos. I'm a builder myself and it's great to se things being done to such a great standard and cutting no corners. Keep up the good work, Tom
If you cut corners you end up going round in circles
Thanks Tom. I can only ever see all the bits I could have done better.
This series of videos is great for me as I am currently refurbing an ensuite shower room using similar insulation boards (jackoboard) and shower valve with diverter similar to the one fitted for the bath so thanks Roger, I look forward to the next one in the series.
Can't wait to see it tiled, be nice to see how you cope with the thickness of the boarded floor/heater/tiles at the door threshold.
I wish every week was be kind to tilers week! Great job love your channel.
Another quality video. Thanks for taking the time to produce these 👍
Love this British guys commitment to getting it right.
top work looking forward to see the end product.
Brilliant advice! Thanks for sharing! Good timing as well, was getting a bit of Brexit fatigue.
Brexit fatigue? just as it gets to the penalty shoot out. Hold your breath, keep your fingers crossed and watch through your fingers and hope your team wins. Whatever the outcome the familiar cry of "We was robbed" will echo across this land.
Great stuff as always mate, I'll be completely honest with you I've cut corners in the past I'm ashamed to say it but is the truth but as times gone on you start working out the right ways to the wrong ways and some homeowners have to bear the brunt of those mistakes but it's people like you that put the likes of me on the straight and narrow, keep up the great content your a good team all of you 👍
It's nice when the bath you fit has the option to place the overflow filler on the outside. Mine was up against the wall and the shenanigans I went through fitting it was no joke.
Logik 100
I agree but, in this particular case, it would have been fine because that wall backs onto some fitted wardrobes and I could have had a nice access panel. The only trouble is that you see the filler as you look at the bath and this way you don't. I spent a good half a day thinking about which to do and I am not sure the decision was the right one but it is done.
used that abacus shower tray in my bathroom this week and found it very good to work with. thanks for the vid
Great to hear! We like their ideas
Excellent work.detail detail good stuff.
I really wished I had the money for this and I would hire you instantly.
Fully waterproof bathroom is what I need. Everything has come together nicely 😭
A good old Roger in the bathroom on all fours …… again.
Roger is always considerate to he tilers. 😄
Great video once again roger, I would use an rcbo for wet room or even two to split the lighting from the underfloor heating, a bit over kill but better to be safe.
I like RCBO's I have them in my house. I like as many dedicated circuits as I can but I am not the sparks.
Bib and braces! That's the whole menswear department at M&S.😂
Nice job.
I really enjoy watching your videos, they're very informative and easy to understand and certainly help me tackle projects I'm unsure of.
When you were sealing the elements board joints and corners etc what are the little boxes that have also been treated. There seems to be lots of squares across the boards? I’ve only ever used moisture board but I’m not a trades person but I can really see how this looks so reliable for a non fail bathroom system. 👍
With the elements board on the floor, the adhesive build up, the heating and then the tiles, what makes the transition to the next room look good. Must be a total of 20mm difference in floor level.
The hall has Cloud 9 underlay and carpet so it is around 12mm. The threshold strip is a standard ramp. Not an issue but if it had been I would have put hardboard down in the hall.
@13:10 He says "air admittance valve", for anyone that might want to know.
I heard "intermittence valve" in a west country accent 😅
They let air into the system without letting sewer gases out, (my guess) preventing vacuums from forming on one side of the U bend and causing a glugging noise as the bend intermittently lets gas through.
Harry
You are spot on with the air admittance valve but way off the mark with the accent.
Brilliant videos - thank you. I really admire your thoroughness and attention to detail. Have you ever used one of those wet room kits, but with timber? I know it sounds mad, but I have been in a bathroom with a wooden shower floor and walls - some indestructible exotic hardwood.
I have never used timber for a wet room but I have seen it done in South East Asia
@@SkillBuilder thanks - I've found a company who do it. Teak baths, shower trays etc.
Currently pulling apart my bathroom. I had grand ambitions. There is a lot more swearing and using a hammer than Roger's haha
Another Great Video!
Roger, Air Admittance Valve? When should these be installed and when shouldn't they? When to glug and when not to glug?? I've researched how they work but unable to find advice on when to use them in exisiting domestic property refits. Most info is regarding installations in new builds.
You sent my Amazon Echo off into ramblings!
Great vid, thank you. I'm a bit confused about the tape, do you use self adhesive tape for the walls and you apply a coat of tanking membrane underneath? Or is it non adhesive tape?
If I'm using a floor-standing WC instead of wall-hung, can i put it on top of the elements board or should I cut out the shape so the loo sits on the subfloor?
You can put it on top of the Elements board. It will squash down minutely but will stop. You could tile the floor and then put the w.c on top, that would be best
Roger, will you be leaving weep holes (small gaps about 40mm long) in the sealant in one or two spots at the base of the wall tiles in the shower? Should any water ever get behind the tile it can then find a way out within the shower. It's very useful when shower enclosures are going to be installed as otherwise the water would eventually find a way out at a corner outside the enclosure and will appear like a bad seal between enclosure, tile and tray.
That sounds like a plan but I didn't do the silicone or the grouting.
If the tray panel has a built in fall and you use latex to cover the underfloor heating matt, won't that just defeat the fall built into the tray panel leaving it level rather than sloping into the drain??
PS love the channel and all the videos.
Ronan
The self leveller is just trowelled to barely cover the heating elements. If you don't mix it too wet it will not run down the fall so the fall in the tray is maintained
Tap, and if hollows discovered, drill at least 2 holes (to allow air to escape) and fill void with foam.
On the boarding you mean? Good tip
@@SkillBuilder Yes. I use foam all the time. The gun would be the first item I'd replace if all my tools went. For example. Studs out of plumb, foam up, put in a couple of screws top and bottom but don't drive home. Wait a bit check with level until it's gone off then screw properly.
I also use it to bed trays. Shim up till perfectly level, damp substrate, foam up and cover with newspaper. Place tray and gently weight. Newspaper means you can lift tray if something goes wrong (has happened to me). Weight of tray and tiling secures and every square inch is supported. Absolutely mandatory if you have an urgent tiling job that needs grouting before the adhesive goes off. Blob tiles, run foam, you can grout in 15 minutes.
Have to cut out plasterboard between studs for whatever reason? Cut 3 inch strips of p. board, foam and fix half width behind all round with screws. Wait ten minutes then foam/screw in the replacement board. You can even remove screws if proud. Scrim and skim in another 10 minutes.
@skillbuilder - is that wood floor primer a basic acrylic, and do you have recommendations for primers for hardwood ply before adhesive for waterproof board?
Hi, are the the elements board that you are using on the floor different to the elements board your using on the walls as it's a different colour? thx
same stuff just different thickness.
You used the self adhesive waterproof tape round the shower former but used a waterproof past and roll for the rest. Can you use the past and roll round the shower former?
Hi Jason
Yes you can use the ProSeal (paste) around the ediges with the flexible neoprene tape. I acutally prefer it because the self-adhesive tape is a little tricky to apply. The problem is that it is too sticky and once it makes contact it is a devil to remove and re-apply. After 8 jobs or so I finally made a decent enough job of it but the blue ProSeal is way more forgiving.
Skill Builder brilliant, thank you for the fast reply. I will continue with the blue pro seal all around. Is the pro seal ok on the plastic on the former near the trap.
Hi, is it alright to fix directly to the floor joists with an adhesive? I am wondering that if the boards will be lifted in the future for re-modelling, will this not damage the floor joists? Can the floor boards be fixed mechanically to resolve this issue?
Hi Roger, that self adhesive tape, is it the same that comes with the aquaseal tankint kit? Cheers
Please show the end result with tiles
You're a legend
Hi mate hope you are well, sorry if this has been asked already, but what type of primer are you using on the wooden floor? Also are you only priming the shower area, or the entire floor inc the floor boards? If so how are you sealing the gaps? Do those boards require any additional primer before tiling?
Sorry for soo many questions, thanks again for all your time and effort!!
The primer comes in the kit. Use it where you are sticking the boards down
0.20.... Is poking out of the tongue compulsory? 🤣 Good job👍🏻
Be kind to tilers week, LOL.
We use multipanel wall boarding for bathrooms at work ...Ur thoughts on this product? Also we always stick shower trays down with plasterboard adhesive...Ur thoughts on this too?
Personally I don't think putting trays down with plasterboard adhesive is a good idea. it's not flexible, better than sand and cement but i would highly recommend using a flexible s1 or even s2 tile adhesive. if the property has any movement the tray could fail, and in a wet room that could be a nightmare! I have used multi panel and it's alright :) i guess its just peoples preference, I prefer tiles. ;)
Phillip
I don't understand what plasterboard adhesive achieves. The KST is flexible, non shrink, weight bearing. It is also what the spec calls for. As an side, I keep gypsum out of all wet areas. I don't even like it on shower room ceilings. You can get polymer plasters that have much better water resistance.
"Hey Siri, who is Roger Bisby?" …. "Roger Bisby is an actor who starred in Crocodile Dundee and is also famous for the hit song "Hold the lantern Grandmother, while I shave the chickens lip" …. "Later on in life he started a career In the building industry, but failed miserably"
Bum Custard
Yes you are right. He lost all his money and now lives hand to mouth, which considering where he puts his hands, is destined to leave him in the proverbial.
At 12:40 what are those grey boxes, and what's special about the traps, type etc.... ?
Keep watching. All will be revealed or check out our previous video on basin frames
Brilliant vid as always Roger. A quick question - on a stable timber floor, after I build up with tile backer and tank, do I always need a decoupling membrane as well (I'll be doing electric UFH so maybe get a system which has decoupling membrane as part of it)?
No the Elements board is the decoupler
Roger. What are those round things that you use to fix the boards?
The washers are sold with the board. They are soft zinc I think. They pull into the surface.
What on average is the transition height from floorboard to finish tile using this whole system?
9mmm for the Elements board + adhesive so say 10mm and then the tile plus adhesive so probably 21mm. Carpet and underlay in the hall may come up to 15mm so not much of a ramp on the threshold.
@@SkillBuilder thanks 👍
Roger what safety trainers do you use??
Solid Gear
My phone seems to think I was asking it to give me a timer
What is the blue adhesive you use in your videos?
Proseal from Abaus. It is part of the tanking system
We say Belts Buckles and Braces in Germany!
Alexa, plumb that rad in for me
Alexa-sponge bath please! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Who else’s siri went mad when he asked Siri ?
no cuz i dont have a SHIT phone :)
I had to comment! Siri is just not very good. Had you tried that with Google Assistant........ No flame wars of who is best please.
iphones r shit and dey are overpriced and apple tards must all die, like that ?
Get rid of that dot and dab tiler. He is making a dent in your craftmanship.
hehe the first one here:))
I duno, I have a problem with all this new fangled stuff. It increases the cost and the time, which is also increasing the cost. Do you really get a better finish? I've seen so many of these new products that are introduced and then found they had a massive fail. Hardboard masonite siding, EIFS systems, there are loads of class action lawsuits out there against fancy products that installed slowly with precision and experienced, professionals usually works, but in the real world on a jobsite, with Joe mutt installing it the first time, they fail.
I guess you could make yourself a name by become a certified installer of some fancy product, but then how many people want to pay the extra expense just to say they used a product that no one else will ever see or care about?
I have one question Rog, Why go to all the trouble of painstakingly levelling that board, then put down the underfloor heating and now cover it with a self levelling compound? Seems like you are doubling up on making sure everything is level when that is the purpose of the self levelling compound.
I am not a fan of trying to lift the floor with self leveller. I could have done it and made life easy for myself but that is something I still have to master.The self leveller just fills the gaps between the heating elements and you get a more even heat.