Really enjoy these videos. I do like a 'belt and braces' approach to sealing and waterproofing. I'm not a plumber, but I've used those wall boards before and they are great to work with, and give a great backing for tiles to go on. The finished shower looks great. One thing I'd change though (there's always something lol) I'm planning to have the shower controls at the opposite end to the shower head. So I don't have to walk in to turn it on, and get covered in (primarily cold) water in the process. Thanks again for the videos. Very helpful and enjoyable to watch.
There seems to be a contradiction of your previous videos when bedding in shower tray on a wooden floor! You say use sand and cement mix to level instead of tile adesive as it does what is says, stickes. I am confused, which is the correct method? Thanks.
Top tip, always always put down a substantial protective covering on your shower tray before even considering working over it! What I usually do is firstly clean the tray very thoroughly so that there is absolutely no chance of any grit on the surface of the tray, then I cover it with a Proguard breathable fleece and then a product called Proguard Correx very reasonably priced to buy I use the 4mm thick type such a versatile and cheap product I use both products everywhere over oak floors that I have put down or tiled floors to protect the surface while I am working, its a very worthwhile investment and could save a lot of stress and unexpected expense! Once I have installed the Proguard I then put down a Half inch ply and that way if you drop a shower head attachment or a tool of some kind it wont damage your lovely new shower tray...
British Standards Institute (BSI) for BS 5385-1 (wall and floor tiling in normal internal conditions), In clause 6.1.1.3, the standard states that ‘In wet areas … substrates should be protected with a suitable proprietary tanking membrane system’. It further declares that ‘the weight capacity of the tanking system should be capable of carrying the load of the tiles and adhesive’. All substrates within a wet area should now be waterproofed before tiling, even in domestic locations. This means this method shown here is now part of the British Building Standard and should be done on all new bathroom installation or refits.
@@simonstones1918 not sure what you question is here, in a wet area of a shower, you would have a shower tray, the concrete floor in this area would be protected from the water by the shower tray and as such the floor within this area wouldn't need any additional protection. The floor outside this area would be outside the wet/showering area and as such wouldn't need any further protection to conform to the BS but it wouldnt be a bad thing to add extra protection. In the case of having a wetroom created in a room with a concrete floor which is to be tiled, the flooring area will require tanking completely prior to tiling.
So glad I live in a solid brick house some days, I fear many things, but not a bit of moisture. I love seeing how things are done right though, and try to make compromises when i see good ideas.
Hi The components used in this video are available here: www.abacus-bathrooms.co.uk/#!/wetrooms-waterproofing-glass-screens/installation-components To find your nearest reseller you can use our dealer locator: www.abacus-bathrooms.co.uk/#!/links/store-locator Thanks!
Roger. Does it matter which way round the sealing tap goes over joints and does it matter if you totally cover the tap on outwards facing side? I am having problems getting adhesion around the sides of the niches with the tap and adhesive in the shower area?
Great work , planning to us this in passage outside the bathroom as had lot of water trouble, putting it on studded wall , would I get away with normal plaster board skews and painting , I would appreciate your advice, as I am totally inexperienced cheers
Cracking channel buddy, i'm hooked, looking to get rid of bath in the new year for a walk in shower and your vlogs have given me so much info thank you,
Hi Roger, I have a lot of plaster board dot and dub adhesive left over. Can I use this on this elements board or similar board to dot and dub to brick walls in the bathroom?
Should rawl plugs be tapped.on in, such that the head is level with the back of tile. This could avoid the plug expanding and cracking the tile.,.but then the water might get in...
Hi, Roger happy new year,iam putting wedi boards on the bathroom walls,I have porcelain tiles on at the moment would the board's stick to the tiles with the tile adhesive you mentioned or would I need to use blue grit or take them of?
What adhesive did you use yo dot n dab the backside of those waterproof boards and what type of screws are you using in combination with the rosette to fix them to the studs, i reckon the screws need to be somewhat resistant to water?
We use our KST adhesive to adhere the board to the walls and our s/steel washers and screws. The screws do really need to be resistant to water and they should be covered with our waterproof tape and pro-seal adhesive.
We would adhere the tray to the wall with our MD fixing adhesive and then use our waterproof tape with our Pro-seal adhesive on the transition joint between the tray and the wall. In addition to the shower base we would also highly recommend using Elements wall boards on the vertical walls of the shower area with the same waterproofing method.
Aside from the labour heavy option of chasing out for any pipework (taking into account falls etc) and tray it might be an idea to consider raised concept options. This is a tiled alternative to a legged acrylic tray alternative whereby the pipework can be run above floor level, so you get the modern tiled look of a wetroom without the more advanced construction requirements.
The speed fitting seems very nice but I would never use them in a place like behind a tiled wall, did you know they only give up to 25-year guarantee on them.
Excellent job Roger. I like your approach to your work, it's professional and in your words "Spot on" as a fellow tradesman, I like working your way.I have found my own niche and try and wheedle out the people that want champagne on ginger beer money.
Come on Roger, I need a complete bathroom reinstall, I want you to design and install from start to finish, all your own choice. I'm a pensioner, just outside Cannock in a beautiful part of the country Are you up for it?
Great video but I always hate having to screw a male thread into a female hidden in the wall. You can never be 100% sure they don’t leak. Some kind of pushfit fitting and screw fixings with cover plate would be so much more sensible.
Roger years later this is still the best video on the net real work in a real house problem solving as you go …. Top tradesman thanks 😊
Really enjoy these videos. I do like a 'belt and braces' approach to sealing and waterproofing. I'm not a plumber, but I've used those wall boards before and they are great to work with, and give a great backing for tiles to go on.
The finished shower looks great. One thing I'd change though (there's always something lol) I'm planning to have the shower controls at the opposite end to the shower head. So I don't have to walk in to turn it on, and get covered in (primarily cold) water in the process.
Thanks again for the videos. Very helpful and enjoyable to watch.
Total professional , explained in great detail. Even a diy er like my self can understand and see the skills .
A1 roger .
Love Roger’s videos a total professional in every way
Love this guy, very skilled and knowledgeable. I keep waiting for him to say, hey Mr Grimsdale as he sounds just like Norman Wisdom :)
There seems to be a contradiction of your previous videos when bedding in shower tray on a wooden floor! You say use sand and cement mix to level instead of tile adesive as it does what is says, stickes. I am confused, which is the correct method? Thanks.
Top tip, always always put down a substantial protective covering on your shower tray before even considering working over it! What I usually do is firstly clean the tray very thoroughly so that there is absolutely no chance of any grit on the surface of the tray, then I cover it with a Proguard breathable fleece and then a product called Proguard Correx very reasonably priced to buy I use the 4mm thick type such a versatile and cheap product I use both products everywhere over oak floors that I have put down or tiled floors to protect the surface while I am working, its a very worthwhile investment and could save a lot of stress and unexpected expense! Once I have installed the Proguard I then put down a Half inch ply and that way if you drop a shower head attachment or a tool of some kind it wont damage your lovely new shower tray...
British Standards Institute (BSI) for BS 5385-1 (wall and floor tiling in normal internal conditions), In clause 6.1.1.3, the standard states that ‘In wet areas … substrates should be protected with a suitable proprietary tanking membrane system’. It further declares that ‘the weight capacity of the tanking system should be capable of carrying the load of the tiles and adhesive’. All substrates within a wet area should now be waterproofed before tiling, even in domestic locations. This means this method shown here is now part of the British Building Standard and should be done on all new bathroom installation or refits.
Even on concrete floors?
@@simonstones1918 not sure what you question is here, in a wet area of a shower, you would have a shower tray, the concrete floor in this area would be protected from the water by the shower tray and as such the floor within this area wouldn't need any additional protection. The floor outside this area would be outside the wet/showering area and as such wouldn't need any further protection to conform to the BS but it wouldnt be a bad thing to add extra protection.
In the case of having a wetroom created in a room with a concrete floor which is to be tiled, the flooring area will require tanking completely prior to tiling.
Tiling has to be on a flat vertical surface. I use this product or similar on ALL my jobs now.
great,learn a lot
So glad I live in a solid brick house some days, I fear many things, but not a bit of moisture. I love seeing how things are done right though, and try to make compromises when i see good ideas.
What is the name of the tapes, mesh , blue paste, and joint screws you are using please? And how much are they each?
Hi
The components used in this video are available here:
www.abacus-bathrooms.co.uk/#!/wetrooms-waterproofing-glass-screens/installation-components
To find your nearest reseller you can use our dealer locator:
www.abacus-bathrooms.co.uk/#!/links/store-locator
Thanks!
Roger. Does it matter which way round the sealing tap goes over joints and does it matter if you totally cover the tap on outwards facing side? I am having problems getting adhesion around the sides of the niches with the tap and adhesive in the shower area?
Great work , planning to us this in passage outside the bathroom as had lot of water trouble, putting it on studded wall , would I get away with normal plaster board skews and painting , I would appreciate your advice, as I am totally inexperienced cheers
Cracking channel buddy, i'm hooked, looking to get rid of bath in the new year for a walk in shower and your vlogs have given me so much info thank you,
Hi Roger, I have a lot of plaster board dot and dub adhesive left over. Can I use this on this elements board or similar board to dot and dub to brick walls in the bathroom?
Should rawl plugs be tapped.on in, such that the head is level with the back of tile. This could avoid the plug expanding and cracking the tile.,.but then the water might get in...
Do you need to put primer on wedi type boards or cement boards before you tile
Hi, Roger happy new year,iam putting wedi boards on the bathroom walls,I have porcelain tiles on at the moment would the board's stick to the tiles with the tile adhesive you mentioned or would I need to use blue grit or take them of?
What adhesive did you use yo dot n dab the backside of those waterproof boards and what type of screws are you using in combination with the rosette to fix them to the studs, i reckon the screws need to be somewhat resistant to water?
We use our KST adhesive to adhere the board to the walls and our s/steel washers and screws. The screws do really need to be resistant to water and they should be covered with our waterproof tape and pro-seal adhesive.
Love these videos. So helpful. Thank you.
Do I need to use the element boards for their penta shower? or can we get away with soundbloc plasterboard with tanking over the top?
what about fitting a low profile tray to a down stairs bathroom? getting the drainage right?
Great video and information thank you 🙂👍
Where can I get a hold of a pair of those steel toe capped socks Roger?
Can you explain how the elements boards are joined, butted together at the edges. Presume this also has to be waterproof.
Ok I didn't watch far enough. You answered it later.
Hey Roger, what mm plywood do you use for the floor? 8 mm probably?
Hi - if it’s the Plywood under the tray then 18mm would be the minimum.
@@AbacusManufacturingGroup I have the original floorboards and so im laying the ply on top, so surely i can have a thinner piece of ply?
Why did you use tile adhesive? Usually you said sand and cement was the proper way. Help??
Are you only taping the top of tray? Previous videos show you do the sides?
We would adhere the tray to the wall with our MD fixing adhesive and then use our waterproof tape with our Pro-seal adhesive on the transition joint between the tray and the wall.
In addition to the shower base we would also highly recommend using Elements wall boards on the vertical walls of the shower area with the same waterproofing method.
What size plywood used in this bathroom
tiles arnt set out good.should have carried around the cut tile instead of having a slice in the corner
Does anyone know what thickness of elements board was used in the video?
I'd say 10mm
what if you have a concrete floor? what do you do?
Aside from the labour heavy option of chasing out for any pipework (taking into account falls etc) and tray it might be an idea to consider raised concept options. This is a tiled alternative to a legged acrylic tray alternative whereby the pipework can be run above floor level, so you get the modern tiled look of a wetroom without the more advanced construction requirements.
Any one know where to buy it tho ??
The speed fitting seems very nice but I would never use them in a place like behind a tiled wall, did you know they only give up to 25-year guarantee on them.
hey,Bro, the house even does not necessarily live for 25 years
Thank you!
Excellent job Roger. I like your approach to your work, it's professional and in your words "Spot on" as a fellow tradesman, I like working your way.I have found my own niche and try and wheedle out the people that want champagne on ginger beer money.
Champagne on ginger beer money. Classic!!! 👍
Interesting analogy. I alwyas say you can't have a Rolls Royce on Mini prices... lol
Its nice watching Roger work isn't it?
Come on Roger, I need a complete bathroom reinstall, I want you to design and install from start to finish, all your own choice.
I'm a pensioner, just outside Cannock in a beautiful part of the country
Are you up for it?
Great tips
cement board can be cut like plaster board. thats how we do it.its hard,but it saves all the dust.
Nightmareboard!
right,especially when used in large quantities, it saves a lot of working time and is very friendly to health.
@@simonstones1918 why you said that
@@AbigailMay-wv6ob cause it’s hell to cut up that board!
Great video but I always hate having to screw a male thread into a female hidden in the wall. You can never be 100% sure they don’t leak. Some kind of pushfit fitting and screw fixings with cover plate would be so much more sensible.
Wish my plumber was as neat and tidy as you
This guy is the maradona to his trade like maradona is to his football