How to fix excessive oil consumption from clogged piston rings (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2023
- In this video I do another piston soak with B12 Chemtool on an Audi 2.0T - this time in a Q5. The vehicle was burning 1L of oil for every 500km, which is extremely high.
After the piston soak with B12, the vehicle has stopped burning oil and is now well above the manufacturer specifications for oil consumption.
Updates and notes:
1. Multiple viewers have reported a successful reduction in their oil consumption after a piston soak on 2.0T and 3.0T motors.
2. A user reported multiple misfires as a result of the piston soak. I experienced misfires on both my A4 and Q5 after the hard starts seen in this video. In all three cases, pulling the plugs an cleaning them up has resolved the misfires. It would appear the plugs get fouled due to the excessive burn up of soot immediately after the piston soak. As a result, after draining the dirty oil, I replace all plugs with new ones. The same may be applicable to the injectors although no injector issues have been reported so far.
3. Multiple viewers have asked about alternatives to B12 as it may be hard to source in various parts of the world. Any solvent which is safe for the engine should work fine including diesel, engine flush, Sea Foam etc. B12 appears to be the strongest one but I am sure there are plenty others that can do the same job. I used Sea Foam and STP engine treatments to fix my A4 so they have been tested.
DISCLAIMER
This video provides general information and discussion on the topic of piston soaking an engine and reducing excessive oil consumption. If you choose to try this method on your engine you do so at your own risk. This video and the information included in it are not intended to serve as a substitute for a consultation with a professional mechanic. Under no circumstances will Eurotrash Motorsports be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether by Eurotrash Motorsports or a third party. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks for this video and the other one with the same issue. We had a 2014 Q5 Bruning 1L every 400 mi. I was a little worried to do this but figured didn't have much to lose. This totally worked and we are only 400 miles in but oil is still at max! You saved us thousands. Hardest part for me was disconnecting the coil packs. After you have done it it's no porb. Just take your time and you got this!
That's awesome! So glad this worked for you guys! Any feedback on the process? Any issues? Did you have misfires after doing the soaking? Did you have to clean the plugs?
i Really wanna try it . but im scared i will brake something. Plse LMK if its Real Help.
No lights came on. It was a little difficult starting the first time but after 15 mins or so it ran fine.
@@timpresutto184 again hardest part for me was the connector on the coils. I googled that and there is a video of a guy using a pick to release the lock. Also make sure to get all the fluid out of the cylinders before putting the plugs back in.
Only thing I would add for the newbies is the socket size for the crank and which direction to turn the engine lol I had to search around to find to confirm which way to go
This is May 2024. In early April I did the piston soak on my daughter’s Q5 as per your guidelines. 1,100 miles later and the oil level is still at the top. I can hardly rap my head around this as she was adding 1/2 quart about every 300 miles. I’m so grateful to have found your videos. Thank you for the very helpful information. Bless you my friend.
Awesome results!
@Brianw338 - I have 2012 q5 2.o T burning a qt every 400 miles! did you follow this 48 hour and 2 berryman 12 process? i need to do mine but still skeptic about 24 or 48 hrs soak. pls guide, thank you
@@johndroc11 : Yes. I was skeptical as well. It’s sounds too good to be true. I did the 24 hour soak. I probably overdid it with the B12. I poured I believe it was six ounces in and checked it at the four hour mark and appeared to be mostly evaporated so I poured a few ounces more. I let two hours pass and turned the engine over by hand. Poured another six ounces in and let that sit overnight. In the morning I turned the engine over again and poured more B12 in. About 5 hours later I cranked the engine with the starter…spark plugs out, and that blew out a lot of carbon. I then put the plugs back and started the engine. It took a bit of cranking but eventually fired up. I let the engine get hot then drained the oil. Fresh oil and filter and new plugs and this process has actually worked. If I do it again, I will put the plugs back in after pouring the B12 in to keep the evaporation down. Hope this helps. Maybe I over explained it but there you have it.
@brianw338 good points... from what I noticed the B12 doesn't really evaporate very fast so if yours was not there it's more likely it drained down into the oil pan... be careful if you put the plugs in not to turn the engine wth them there until you're sure the cylinders are clear
I swear to God that I don't get it. There are thousands (at least) of Audi owner with this problem, yet you only got 500+ views 😥 Some shmuck shows some cars and he gets millions of views, you show a real way to fix a real problem, 500+, there is something wrong with this world 😥Please keep the videos comming 🙏
Haha seriously :)
Lol which schmuck are you specifically referring to?
Apparently this is only a temporary fix or something you may have to do periodically as routine maintenance.
@MrJasonfromcanada maybe maybe not - it takes 100k+ km to get the rings screwed up so this may last a while before they clog up again... of course it all depends on the state of the engine etc...
@@ETMotorsports I’m going to give it a try, my son has a 2014 with 164,000km on it. We bought a few months ago from an original owner with all maintenance records from the day it was purchased. It’s in beautiful shape otherwise.
Thank you for this great video! Our daughter was extremely excited to purchase her own vehicle with money she saved from working. We found her a 2012 Audi Q5 2.0T with 100k miles and in immaculate condition, shortly after her purchase she said the car was low on oil. We added 1-1/2 quarts and than a week later and only 300 miles it was low again, after some research we learned about the Audi oil consumption issue and were fearing that we may have to pull and rebuild the engine. I fortunately found your videos about this issue and followed your tutorial, the engine is no longer burning any oil with over a 1000 miles so far. We greatly appreciate what you have done addressing the oil consumpiton issue and saving us and others thousands of dollars in repair with your helpful videos!
Great results! Glad I could help... plenty of people are getting burned buying cars with oil consumption that isn't declared
I have a 2011 a4 with 120k on it and very similar consumption i want to give this a try. Thanyou so much for the efoort and detail because this sort of thing is always talked badly about and thrown fear into it but to actually see it in action is nailbiting and satisfying thank you. !!🎉
Good luck! Please let us know how it goes
This process is a game changer. My wife's Q5 was burning a quart about every 250 miles, since I did this process, it has been 550 miles and the oil is still max level. Thank you so much for posting this.
Glad it worked!
This is a revolution! Might save the asses on a LOT of cars! Ty for sharing! :)
Beautiful video. Very thorough and long term proof. Couldn’t think of any way to improve this video 👍
Glad it was helpful!
@@ETMotorsportsAwesome video: I have a 2011 A4 Avant which started consuming a quart every 200 miles about a year ago. Will try. How is your sister’s Q5 doing? How long did it go before needing oil? TIA
@@michaelscoots you can see ep3 - it's down to 1L/5000km... on the second oil change now - I think it got even better
This is going to be your 1 million view video, great job!
My friend, I can not thank you enough for this! I have a 2014 Audi Q5 2.0T with 118,000 miles on it and I was burning a quart of oil about every 100 miles (painful!). This SAVED me about $3,000 on taking it to a mechanic or spending countless hours myself taking out the pistons and clearing the oil evacuation holes. I've driven over 200 miles now and my oil gauge still reads full. YES! So grateful I will post my entire process and experience to help others as you have helped me.
As you stated, but maybe worth mentioning again --- the problem is not that the piston rings are wearing. It's that the oil evacuation holes of the oil control rings get clogged. When this happens, the oil control rings can't properly remove the oil from the cylinder walls, and that oil gets burned during every combustion stroke.
Prep work:
- Remove engine plastic cover, remove the T30 torx screw holding in the sensor by the coil packs, used a spark plug wire removal tool (to pinch the tabs) on the 8 small wire connectors connecting the coil packs, removed the wires. Next, while lifting up on coil pack connectors I used flat head screw driver to gently push clips on the connectors outward, removed the connectors. Next, just wiggled and pulled upward on coil packs to remove them. Took my deep spark plug socket (5/8), removed spark plugs (the plug from cylinder 4 was slightly dirty, but the rest were clean). Inserted a 6 inch socket extension into cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 spark plug wells, rotated crank until they were about level. Removed extensions. Prep work complete.
What I did:
- At about 80% oil capacity (4 liters), I did a 48 hour piston ring soak using two bottles of B12. 48 hours was probably overkill and 24 would have been fine, but I digress. Added one bottle initially, 100mL at a time, to each cylinder. Took a Poland Spring water bottle and measured 100 mL with water first, marked a line, dumped the water and now had a liquid measuring tool (which pours easily). Measuring is probably unnecessary and you could eyeball how much B12 you are pouring into each cylinder, just try to distribute the liquid evenly.
- Turned the crank a full turn every 16 hours. Kind of a pain doing it with your bare hands, but if you turn the crank and grip the belt around the alternator wheel at the same time it's not so bad (be sure to rotate counter-clockwise). After the first rotation, I added the second bottle of B12 using the method in step 1.
- After 48 hours, I put the old spark plugs back in, along with the coil packs, and hand tightened everything. Leaving the B12 in, I started the car and ran it for 30 minutes. She took about 10-15 seconds to turn over, but once it did I could see huge clouds of white smoke pouring from my exhaust. The engine ran rough at idle for about 10 minutes (around 900 RPM, which is what I was idling at before all this anyway) but eventually she smoothed out and was idling at 680 RPM. No codes thrown surprisingly. The smoke started lessening around 10-15 minutes, and was completely gone after 30 minutes. There was a ton of black dust sitting under my exhaust pipes which I assume were carbon deposits built up in the cylinder walls. Drove the car around for 10 minutes and the acceleration was already much noticeably better.
- Next, I did a full oil and oil filter change, using Mobil 1 high mileage SAE 5W-30 and an OEM Audi filter (any decent filter would have sufficed though).
- Changed engine air filter. A lot of people don't remember or think this a necessary maintenance item. It is absolutely crucial your engine breathes clean air or those deposits will also build up in your engine. Imagine using the same mask during COVID for 6 months without changing it. That's how your car feels if you don't change the engine air filter every 25K miles at the very most.
- Replaced spark plugs. Again, probably overkill but I was still using the original plugs. 118,000 miles on any spark plugs should be changed anyway. The diodes had worn away a bit and the gaps were now about 0.04 (factory spec is 0.032) but they were still in decent working condition. Replaced the original plugs (OEM model: AG VW 06H905621) with average quality plugs Autolite XP3923 (I'll put a link down below). Gapped the new plugs properly to 0.032 and they work well. The car idles smooth and the pickup is pretty good, but my fuel economy definitely took a hit (previous average 24 city/31 hwy to 19.5 city/26 hwy). Wondering if maybe the computer is still taking time to adjust.
- Had about 50 mL of B12 left, which I tossed into the gas tank for good measure. This may have done a little something since I only had 1/4 tank of gas in the car, but I doubt it.
Car has been running smooth for about 225 miles now, with no oil burning to speak of. At this point I would have already had to add an entire quart, and most likely been halfway down on my oil gauge. You saved me about $3000 dollars at the mechanic and saved my favorite car. Thank you again!
11/3/23 UPDATE: Over 800 miles since doing this soak, and my oil gauge is till at max. Beyond thrilled!
Also, I would not recommend the spark plugs I replaced the original ones with. My average mpg now is 20 city/hwy combined. Truly abismal considering my original plugs with 118,000 miles on them were getting me a combined mpg of around 24.5. 18% decrease, yikes. You get what you pay for!
UPDATE 2/13/24: I'm at my next oil change (~4,000 miles) and my oil gauge is half full still. This fix 100% works long term. God bless this man for sharing this.
Spark plug replacement:
www.amazon.com/dp/B009J58FJA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Oil Filter:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00P17UTCG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Engine Air Filter:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08951B64J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
awesome news - thank you for sharing!! really glad this worked out well for you...I`m curious if you actually got the 3k quote? I had a local viewer tell me he was quoted 10k for the service which seems insane...
@@ETMotorsports Yes, $3000 quoted in the Northern New Jersey area. A local Audi specialist told me it's about an 18 hour job @ $110/hr for labor, $200 x 4 for new rings/parts, and 7% tax. Total being $2974.60. I was almost considering it until I found this video. Thank you again!
@@AlitasDePoll0 that does sound pretty reasonable...
@@ETMotorsports It was definitely tempting especially since I am the only owner this car ever had so I know there are no other issues and it would have been worth it. Only thing that had me raising my eyebrows was it being an 18 hour job 🤔. I feel like a mechanic shop that has all the right tools could do it in 12-15 hours working at a moderate pace. Had he told me 15 hours I would have said yes on the spot.
@@AlitasDePoll0did it fix the issue?? How much is it consuming now??
Excellent video I saw someone else do the same thing and it made a big difference
Wow, thank you so much. My 2013 A4 1.8T has been burning 1L of oil every 250km. I was quoted half what I paid for the car to do a rebuild. I tried this with CRC motor treatment which seems to be the same stuff as b12 chemtool (which I can't find in my country). I have done 350km since the treatment with almost no oil use. You have saved me a fortune.
Hey that's great news! Where are you located? I'll have to look up CRC motor treatment - it sounds more like SeaFoam...a lot of folks are looking for alternatives since B12 seems to only be available in the US
Oh that's interesting- CRC is headquartered in Canada - I haven't actually seen it anywhere on the shelves here
@@ETMotorsports I'm in South Africa. I bought CRC motor treatment from a local online store.
@@stanleyadamssa Im also in SA did it work?
Going to be performing the piston soak as soon as possible…I have a 2009 b8 that has not shown any symptoms of this oil issue yet and I’ve owned for 3 years now with 103,000 miles on it. Now I bought a q5 with 80,000 with terrible oil issue the previous owner just gave up on but got a good price on it…previous owner was a lil cheap as he replaced pcv with knock off brand so I’m sure with piston soak and fcp/ecs quality pcv replacement I’ll be bringing her back to life…will keep you guys updated!
Good luck! The pcv can usually account for some oil burning but the levels that these cars see there's no way the pcv is the problem... keep us posted!
holy crap...for myself it actually worked. followed your directions and I went from burning 1 litre of oil every 3-400km to now well over 1500km and the dipstick still remains the same level. I thought I was going to have to rebuild the engine cause of this oil burning problem. thanks again you're a legit lifesaver bud. I have a 2009 a4 with 150k on the odometer
Great results! Glad it worked
I had recently done this with my 2014 a4 ea888 gen 3 motor which was burning 1L every 400kms with great success. I was a little scared at trying it but am wrapped at how it went. 400kms in and still at max. Thank you so much for this video as it's saved me $$$.
Great results!!
Just an update but 1000kms in and it's only gone through a quarter of a litre.
This is a valid treatment for many cars. Many many many cars
Cheers to you! My 2010 A5 Cabrio was burning a quart in 350mi. I’m 500 miles since the ring soak and oil level hasn’t budged. I’m changing oil and filter at 1000.
My first Audi was a 1970 Super 90. POS! It was 40 years before I walked into an Audi dealer again. I won’t live long enough to walk into another.
Haha - great results!!! Yeah unfortunately most German cars aren't what they used to be but we still love them
Hi! Greetings from Colombia!, your video will save me from spending a lot of money for changing pistons, my car is an Audi A4 2012 with only 86000km (53437) miles, is consuming an absurd amount of oil, about 1.5 liters every 450 km (279) miles, I have imported the B-12 solvents from amazon and I will perform the cleaning following your steps, thank you very much, I will keep you informed. God bless you sir!
Damn that's a crazy amount for such low mileage! Good luck and keep us posted
@@ETMotorsports Hello sir, for health reasons until recently I could do the soaking with the solvent B-12, so, long story short, let me list my conclusions, I did a compression test before and after, in all cylinders before using the solvent between 141 PSI and 154 PSI, after cleaning following your instructions all cylinders have 150 PSI, after leaving the pistons soaking for 5 periods of 6 hours with 40ml of the solvent, the car took multiple crankings to start, about the 7th attempt it started with heavy smoking with a lot of white smoke, I drove it 15 km at full throttle and did the oil change, which came out completely black as if it was diesel oil, the new oil is Liqui Moly 10-40w super Leichtlauf (in my country there is no winter, we are in a perpetual spring). Periodically I have made measurements through the OBD2 port, the initial measurement with the newly changed oil was 75mm in the oil sensor and today after 500km traveled it stays exactly 75 mm of oil, previously it would have consumed a liter of oil, I have to thank you for your video and the great help it has been, it has really saved me from spending too much money, also in the future I will continue taking regular measurements of the oil sensor and informing you of the status of oil consumption, Again thank you very much for your help, God bless you and happy life!
B12 is phenomenal. Been doing top end soaks on my old Toyotas that coke up the same way, and it truly works!!!
like regularly? Interesting...which Toyota engine? I`m guessing similar oil ring problems?
😅😅😅 I have the same issue and I need that help 🤓
'99 1ZZ and '08 2AZ .. I've done 2 soaks on each, just started last December or so when I got sick of dumping oil every 300-400 miles. The 314k mile 1ZZ is up to about 1000 miles before it needs any added and the 150k miles 2AZ made it through its last 3000 mile oil change without needing any. Probably going to do it every 4th oil change or so at this point. It really saved both engines. @@ETMotorsports
@@WiscomptonBoys awesome results
Same thing happened to my wife’s 2011 Audi a4. Bought it with absolutely no issues. 4 months into ownership is started burning about 1L a day. I will definitely be giving this a try
eek...1L/day? that's crazy...that's more like my A4 which was basically drinking the oil
I finally did the piston soak with Berryman on my Volvo V60 2015 T5 which was burning 1L per 1000km.
I would strongly suggest the following (which I did) additional steps :
- using compressed air, blow out all dust around the coil packs, and while blowing down the plugs wells (while the plugs are still in) I would vacuum the dust airborn on top of each plug well.
-Prior to putting back the plugs once the treatment is over, I attached a 1/4” plastic tube to my shop vac and created a vacuum hose that I inserted down the wells to suck up debris and loosened up carbon deposits, and leftover chemical.
-I also used a endoscope (amazon) to verify debris and left over chemical
-Changed oil and filter
-I then turned the engine a few times with fuel pump fuse removed in order to run fresh oil and to remove chemical vapors
-installed fuse, and started the car. It took 7 attempts without the thick white smoke as seen on the video. (It is important to have a fully loaded battery)
We shall see the results.
How’s the Volvo doing now? I have the same car and same issue.
I am up to 2500km, and the oil went down one notch ! Also, no more oily carbon deposits on the tailpipes. Dramatic improvement!!!
I had a similar issue on a BMW M54 in a 2003 Touring. Did a similar treatment with BG EPR and had similar results.
The feeling of sandpaper in the oil is the reason why timing chains that used to last 300k km now on direct injection engines last 120k km. The carbon remains in suspension in the oil and they are too fine particles to be trapped by the filter. The carbon that direct injection engines accumulate not only clogs the intake ducts, but also produces many other damages. A complete oil change every 5,000 km is the best way to prevent most of these problems.
High five bro'!
Oil is cheap, engine rebuild is not so cheap.
YEs. 5000 KILOMETERS at most
5000km is a little too soon, 8k is good and use good quality oil. Mobile 1 is good and I'm a big fan of RedLine Racing oils. On my old FSI engines with tunes. They always had issues with the cam followers for the high pressure fuel pumps wearing, with RedLine, there would be barely any wear on them. The black coating after 25000 km was still there
Carbon is a lubricant.
@@Sadik15B Not in that's particles size.
Your videos are gold bro! Chevy Equinox & Terrain have POS engines that have recalls for how shitty the piston rings are on them. This is a GREAT solution for anyone not under warranty.
Like & Subbed!
I was looking forward to seeing the before and after compression test
Yeah sorry I forgot to add the after numbers - they didn't change much...5psi up or down on all cylinders... certainly nothing significant... on my A4 the numbers showed both nothing at all
I did the same treatment for my 2001 Toyota Corolla, which was burning oil like crazy. I also had a very difficult time starting up the engine, just like you. I was told because there was no compression. But my Corolla is barely burning any oil now. so this works !!
Hmm so I guess the compression gets affected from the soaking? Interesting...I guess that's possible... it's funny I actually watched a guy on youtube do this to a corolla before I did it on my audi :) full circle
@@ETMotorsports I think you and I saw the same guy on TH-cam that did this on his Corolla. I remember his channel is DIY Dave or something like that. That’s how I learned and did on my Corolla. Lol.
@@ETMotorsports The carbon that is getting the oilring blocked is the same that could get an piston ring stuck.
oil washes out from pouring solvent so they dont seal. i could barely start after pour, but it worked and now im not adding oil
The 2001 Corolla oil burning issue is a little different. It's due to plugged oil return holes in the piston-- of which there are only two-- that was the root of the problem. Later designs had four oil return holes. I have a 2001 Corolla, original owner, 225K miles, and it still doesn't burn a drop of oil because I always changed oil at 5K miles with synthetic from day one.
Reporting back. I attempted this on my 2013 Volkswagen CC. It was burning oil not as bad as your example but still pretty bad. I did the 24hour process. Now…. The car feels completely different and no oil burning. Went from 1L every 1700 miles to non, zero oil burning. Thank you brother!!
Great results!! Glad this helped
@@ETMotorsports It is unreal how much it helped. So rule of thumb before attempting this again. Your channel has helped me tremendously!
@ETMotorsport,
Thanks a lot for sharing a great fix to oil consumption problem.
I used to burn 1L/600kms. I’m on 1000kms now and oil level is full. I feel so happy after seeing the results man! I used to top up oil every week, else, I used to get low engine oil light 💡.
Awesome!! Glad it worked!!
Don’t even know how I stumbled into this video, but here is another happy 0000 owner. 2009 A4, bought it at 68k, on the way home after purchase (from another state) low oil level light came on. Dealer said I could return it if it’s still under 250 miles, at this point I was past that distance and knew I was screwed. By 80k miles, I was adding 1L every 400 miles. I was ready to do overhaul myself when I got a notice Audi had a class action against and were extending warranty for oil consumption to 80k/10years, and I barely made it by like 100 miles. Long story short, they replaced it with complete new long block. 84k miles later (at 168k) back to oil consumption. By 175k (95k on the new engine) it was back to 1L every 300-400 miles. Other than massive oil consumption, it drove fine. Two weeks ago I stumbled into your video and figured I’ve got nothing to lose. One can, overnight, manually turned over few revolutions, another can, 6 hrs later-all liquid is gone. Cranked it with plugs out, started rough, then cleared out, then 5min later all kinds of cam adjust solenoids/misfire codes. Drained the oil, put new filter and 5/40 synth oil. Pulled the plugs and replaced (super cocked up after few min). Let it run for another 10, misfire cleared out.
Today was little over 200 miles and still a full gauge, usually I would be half way down by now. Another thing I had was occasionally EPS light would come on and tells you not to accelerate past 4K rpm’s, I replaced oil pressure solenoid, seemed like that fixed it but shortly after it came back. This also took care of that issue as well. I’m another witness that can vouch this stuff works. It may not fully fix it, but it had tremendously improved it. Thank you for taking time to post this video!
great results! too bad that the new engine still had issues - my old Avant had the engine rebuilt by Audi for oil burning and wasn't losing a drop - it ran great...
Do keep an eye on that EPS light though - that seems to be related to the intake cam oil pressure issues I've described in one of my other issues...
I performed the piston soak 3 days ago - so far over 100 miles and no moving the oil level bar. We will see..as I am usually only able to go about a week or less without noticeable oil consumption on the bar graph. Will report back here next week. I performed the procedure as in the video except i went longer than 24 hours due to it ending at 3 am - i performed one more manual engine crank with 30ml of B12. FYI the socket you need to crank the engine is a 12 point 24mm short socket. Noticed 3 of my spark plugs were all gunked up with carbon so i soaked them in B12 to clean them off and used a toothbrush -while doing the piston soak. Before i put the plugs back in I removed the 25 AMP Fuel pump fuse - cranked a few times to clear any remaining fluid. I had to crank it 3 times with the key before it would start. Then it started up just fine.
Awesome - thanks for the info! Pulling the fuel pump fuse is a good idea - your can see my motor pushing fuel out when I'm cranking it
Can you give us an update please? How has it gone since you did the B12 treatment?
i have 2009 a4 and i have same problem keep adding damn oil every 400 km , i am sending to mechanic on thursday to do a same thing what you did and thanks for sharing this video should have over 1mil views…. great job man .
Let us know how that goes - so far it seems most if not all mechanics do not want to do that for customers and it makes sense - they lose the big ticket item for rebuilding the motor and there's risk to doing this...
Any updates?
Another success story- I followed this process on my mother in laws 2014 Q5. It was down 1.75 quarts after 950 miles since prior oil change. She had quotes upwards of $7k to replace or rebuild the engine. I did this soak, rotating the engine roughly every 6 hours, and changing plugs after running it for awhile since they got pretty carboned up during the misfires immediately afterwards.
After the 24 hour soak about 2 months ago, she's at 1100 miles and oil level is still basically full. Pretty ridiculous overnight change! Thanks!
Note, I thought I had done something very bad to the engine as after a couple of hours I was still getting a really bad misfire. Turns out that 3 of the 4 coils had lost most most of the rubber boot inside the sleeve. There were also signs of burnt oil all over the coils, indicating a gasket cover leak (probably contributed to the coils getting destroyed). They must have been hanging onto the old plugs for dear life, and not connected well with the new plugs. Just a reminder to check the coils and plugs when you take them out to avoid that extra stress 😅
Awesome results! Glad it worked out... yeah this basically assumes that everything else is in good working order...I bet you scored some great points with the mother in law!!
Super !! Great tip. Blagodarim mnogo!
Hello, here is my final report on this piston soaking treatment. In Feb, my 2013 A4 B8 2.0 TFSI(100k mile) had severe oil bunning issue (1qt per 2 times of gas fill: around 600 mi). I felt it was getting worse. Fortunately, I found this video. I followed exactly the same prodcedure from Part I. You said part I could do negligible impact on soaking treatment. But I didn't want to ignore any subtle difference from what you've done because every chemical treatment could have cumulative effect on carbon build-up as I know this carbon scum has been built up over 90k mileage. Now, I ran over 3K mile and checked the oil level this morning. Surpringly, it is very hard to notice oil level reduction. very negligible or almost zero consumption after this piston soaking treatment. Now I'm very happy with this result. Thank you again.
great results! glad it worked
@@ETMotorsports thank you very much. Recently, I've got a letter Audi US about reimbursement regarding this oil burning issue. I spent a lot for oil and PCV replacement after 950k mileage. But that expense is not reimbursed based on what they claimed. However, I'm Okay with this result. It seems my piston oil ring recovered some tension now. Surprisingly, spark plug looks so dry and showed matte light grey. Hard to see black carbon scum on plug tips for all 4 plugs.
Thanks for the post! I've got a 2012 Q5 2.0 T I need to try this on. Berrymans B12 has always been my favorite carburetor cleaner. The stuff is super strong and dissolves all kinds of deposits so I'm not surprised that it worked for you. Cheers
is the Q5 burning oil?
Thank you!!
2011 Q5, 2.0T engine, about 114K miles and was burning about a quart of oil roughly every 2-3 weeks. I started considering engine rebuild. Followed your treatment steps and currently sitting at about 300 miles and oil level did not drop! Fingers crossed and I will continue on checking oil level weekly.
Most likely will do this again at next oil change.
Thank you again!
Did you crank it between soaks or just turn the crank with no plugs? Disabling the fuel pump and spark?
@@fredbeiner2620 Hi there, I turned the crank by hand between soaks. Did not want to do additional work disabling fuel pump and spark. I know, only couple fuses but for me cranking by hand was easy enough. Before installing spark plugs I just made sure there was no liquid left in cylinders to avoid hydrolocking the engine.
@@marcindomanski3425how would you get fluid out if it did stay? Or just wait as it should dissolve/evaporate? I have no camera to look down in just my flash light and a shake of the car
if there's liquid left in the chambers when you're finished, you can evacuate it by using the starter to crank the motor...it's generally pretty good at clearing up the chambers. Once that's done and you put the plugs, make sure you turn by hand multiple times to make sure you won't have issues cranking after that
Can't believe this worked! Thanks! Did a Liqui Moly Engine flush at idle for 15 minutes, then did the piston soak with only 2 treatments of 2oz per cylinder. Checked with a endoscope the next morning and vacuumed out one cylinder with a syringe and hose. Changed oil and plugs and the oil level is holding with no change now. Was burning about 1 quart every 100-150 miles. Great stuff!
nice! that sounds like a good alternative
Update at 1000 miles on my 2012 Audi A4. About a third of a quart used since the engine flush & piston soak 🤯 crazy! I was at about one quart per 100-150 miles before. I thought I might do a second treatment with berrymans but it looks like this has done the trick! Stoked I stumbled across your video 😁
@@lukewiens6134 great results!! Thanks for posting
Vous avez utilisé un Engine Flush Liqui Moly.
Et ensuite vous avez mis le même produit dans chaque cylindre pendant une nuit?
@ecerce2151 I used liqui moly engine flush as directed by the instructions, then before changing the oil then did the piston soak with berrymans. afterward I changed the oil and started the car. Took 2700 miles for the audi to say I needed to add another quart
I saw your video and had my brother do this over the weekend to my 2016 Q5 with 203k miles. Knew it was the pistons! Drove 200 miles home last night and it's still at max oil! Thank you sooooo much for this video. I will be giving you a shout on my podcast this week!! This was an epic WIN!
Glad it worked!! What was the consumption before?
i have 2012 q5 with 102k miles in it similar issues! did you follow the exact instruction as in this video? i am not a car savvy, not sure to take a risk yet? please advice
yes, this procedure works! I can confirm. I performed this procedure on my 01 corolla (200k miles) and my 2013 hyundai sonata (230k miles). both vehicles were burning oil like crazy. After the procedure, coil consumption seems to be reduced to approx 90%, which i am extremely happy.
Awesome work!
Another commenter here confirming that this fixed my oil consumption. I went from 1L/280km, to now having done 2,000km and only dropping 1 notch down on my oil level. Looks like i'll be able to make it through a complete oil change cycle without adding any in between. Night and day difference. 2013 A4 2.0T
Fantastic!! Glad it worked
Absolutely worked! I changed out the PCV at the same time since the residue buildup could block its function. Easy to do and I wish I would have known this with the last Audi I owned. Definitely worth doing! Been 1K miles since treatment and still showing full, no burn.
Awesome results!
Thanks for the video I will have to try this on my 2011 A3
Thank you for making this content
I hope you read this. 60 years + experience. I've been using Engine Restore for many years, I run it all my old cars. It keeps them like new, great compression and no oil burn. I've brought back many a oil burner with it. And restored the transmission synchros in my Honda Acty. (The crankcase and trans share the same lube) It builds up cylinder walls and bearings. I think your find it will help with your oil burning and compression problem, after a good cleaning of course. I love chem tool too. People tell me I'm crazy for using like your doing.
I did this on a 2015 VW Passat 1.8l turbo. The root of the problem from what I can find out from VW is the crankcase vent valve being faulty. It's a big PCV valve on top of the engine. As a matter of fact it has the Audi logo stamped on it. So if that's the case without replacing the valve, which has be revised and my local dealer had 5 on the shelf, this will happen all over again. I don't agree with starting and driving the car afterwards without changing the oil first. The crankcase is now over filled with black , thinned out, harsh chemical filled oil. The chemicals in that stuff are no joke and it's designed to be burned in your fuel not mixing all that crap through your engine. I started my daughter's VW afterwards and I could hear it rattle when given any serious amount of throttle. I shut it off and changed the oil immediately. Looking at and smelling the oil it's nothing you want flowing through your engine trust me. It's as black as coal and smells like cancer in a can. I used 2 cans and the same method as everyone else online. I'm waiting to see the results. In the VW owners manual under oil consumption you can't even get them to reference mileage or amount of oil as normal consumption. From what I've seen the Big 3 throw numbers at you as to what they consider normal. To you and me I'm sure we don't feel the same. VW/Audi states that during engine break in you may see substantial oil consumption which should eventually taper off until you start to get higher mileage on your engine and then it will start doing it again. So it consumes excessive oil new, then some oil midway through its life, followed by excessive again.
Hello, I hope you're well. I've recently started using the piston soaking method on my Audi A4 2008 2.0 TFSI to address its oil consumption problem. Currently, I'm using Seafoam High Mileage for this purpose, as I'm waiting for the arrival of Berryman's B-12, which I ordered from Amazon. I've even recorded a short video of the Seafoam application process, although I didn't attempt to crank the engine as I couldn't locate a specific bolt, despite trying to follow online instructions.
I've also used an endoscope to inspect the pistons and found them to be quite dirty with dark carbon deposits. Unfortunately, I couldn't share these videos in the TH-cam comment section.
My intention is to clean the top part of the pistons before moving on to the cranking step, although I'm unsure about how to do that as well.
hey I wouldn't bother cleaning the top of the pistons...if you fix the consumption you can use injector cleaners in your fuel, which should technically help clean the combustion chamber and the top of the pistons....
please keep me posted on your results with SeaFoam...it worked well on my A4 but it's not as strong as B12 so I want to know if it helps with your consumption
I did the piston soak that you showed on my 2013 Q5 2.0T, but I ran 3 full cans through over 72 hours, hand cranking 5 rotations about every 6-8 hours before each refill of 1 oz per cylinder. Also ran Seafoam in the crankcase for 300 miles before the piston soak, AND 2 full cans of B-12 in 1 tank of fuel before the Seafoam. Sprayed some oil fogging mist into the cylinders after letting the last round of B-12 evaporate completely (confirmed with borescope and again, hand-cranked a few times) to pre-lubricate the pistons. Car started after about 20 sec of cranking. My consumption was at 1 qt/400 miles. I'm now at 3000 miles with no indication of any consumption. Gas mileage has gone from 24 mpg to 29 mpg and performance is great at 126,000 miles. B-12 is my newest find that I have been sharing with anyone that has a car. I have also run a 12 oz bottle of Yamalube Ring Free through the fuel system in 6 gallons of gasoline to "shock treat" the rings as recommended by Yamaha.
Great results...I like the modifications to the process! did you run the motor with the 3 cans of B12 in the oil or did you drain before?
@@ETMotorsports I left the oil drain plug out during the process so that the B-12 wouldn't be sitting in my oil pan for 3 days. I was worried it might start damaging the oil pan gasket. So as it drained past the oil control rings, it would just run out into the catch pan. I also figured that since I had run the Sea Foam at 1.5 oz per qt that it was enough solvent for the crankcase for one go around.
This is such an issue across the board, I feel like this is another stage of built in obsolesce, car works until you have to turn it back in for a lease and buy another one. Between part 1 & 2 I will try this on my other cars, instructions are very simple, thanks!
This was a great exercise and resolution. Still surprised that Audi can't build a reliable engine!! My friend had to get his 2011 A4 engine repaired because of this.
Besides the low tension rings extended oil changes don't help to mitigate this issue. I bet that if oil changes are done at 8k KM, this situation can be avoided.
Yeah it's crazy how bad that 2.0T is from timing chain issues, to oil pressure issues, to oil burning issues... considering how many cars this engine is used in, it's truly scary to see these problems... pretty much every day there's a low mileage A4 2.0T on marketplace that's either blown it's engine or is about to and folks are stuck with thousands in repair bills
LOL the fuel savings doesn't even come close to recouperating the cost of repair. This is why I drive a 4.0 l jeep, it doesn't get great mileage, but the maintenance cost is like 100 per year
The v6's are great actually, which is something other car makers actually suck at
@@misham6547 but the 2.7 l is also junk, right?
@@gianfrancoa is it? I thought it was pretty much as good as the 3.0
Man you scared the crap out of me slinging those plugs like that 😂
12:12 😅
Wonder if he realized that they're supposed to have precise gaps?
Was looking for this. Hard to take someone like that seriously.
@@justinsnyder6256 didn't even torque them down either lol
Thanks so much for your video. I've gone 400 miles since doing my 2011 A5. No oil used yet😊
Love it!! Keep us posted on your final results
Will do
600 miles now. No oil use and oil is almost clear 😊
The amount of smoke that came out of my 328i filled the street with white smoke for about the length of a football field. It cleaned my oil sensor so now it's working properly again. Also not burning a drop of oil and no oil burning smell. I couldn't be more happy. I used my tools and a bore scope. I just did a 8 hour soak. Topped off Then rinse flushed out the spark plug holes. The amount of carbon was monstrous. Although the crankcase is in pristine condition meaning this car had normal oil changes before I bought it in March. I couldn't be more happier. Next is ultrasonic cleaning the fuel injectors.
absolutely amazing.. thank you for your time and video, i will be trying this on my 2012 a6 3.0t, currently burns 1l every 280 to 300 miles. hoping for the same result!
Oh man... good luck - keep us posted!
Any update?
@@DkPlayz still no light - I'm waiting for 5k to change the oil... got another week or two to go
Havent done the soak yet but i did do a fresh oil change and switched over to 5w40 liqi moly instead of the 5w30. I also used liqi moly oil saver to help with any old seals. Just got a little over 500miles before I had to add a quart. Will be doing the piston soak within the next few weeks as to extend the fresh oil a little longer before its drained. I'll post an update once complete, hoping for good results!
@@ETMotorsports It’s actually astonishing that this 1. Works and 2. Doesn’t kill the turbo
You may want to double check the spark plug gaps after dropping them down into the holes. It's never a good idea to drop them in like that as the gaps can get crushed.
That shit doesn’t matter at all man. I’ve pulled plugs so damn corroded and the car is totally fine. It’s only there to make current arc.
@@nat0rade On real engines, like German and other high end machines use, the spark gap is VERY important because the timing is done at the injector using an encapsulated kernel of flame - if the gap is too big, it will fire late.
@@nat0rade That kind of installation is what actually got me chasing a miss fire on my car and overlooked at the sparkplugs thinking theyre new they should be ok. It does matter, the rubber grabber on SP tools arent just for pulling the SP out but also to land them properly into the SP well.
Spark plug gap affects resistivity bigger gap needs to build even more potential difference to build before spark may delay spark by milliseconds until gap is big enough to delay enough to cause a misfire, but yea there is an acceptable range of gap...
Also too high resistance in plugs will also cause leads to be more prone to arcing... best know your gaps, manufacturers generally specify for a reason, you may not understand that reason but it's wise to follow them for best longevity(yes it won't blow up with a .3mm gap but it may cause excess loads on the system ie higher current...
I recently bought a Mk2 Prius with 180,000 miles on it that consumes too much oil for my liking. I think I'll try this on it soon and report back here, fingers crossed!
Tip, use fuel line to remove and insert plug. Better than dropping them in.
Couldn’t believe how he just dropped the spark plugs back in, potentially altering the electrode gaps?
@@stephenwingfield5489 Super sloppy
My daughter's 2018 Tiguan has 70K miles and recently began using oil. I also just noticed that it puffs a little smoke upon startup. I had read about the B12 piston soak curing Audi/VW 2.0 oil consumption and anticipated her Tiguan might have oil issues.
I just began the B12 soak today. Since it was pointed out that the oil becomes abrasive from running the B12 as an engine flush, I will remove the fuel pump fuse and spin the engine a bit with the starter to exercise the rings some. Then do an oil & filter change. I want to avoid running abrasive oil through the engine & turbo. That stuff has to be brutal on the bearings.
Hopefully, this works. I'll report back to let you know.
Keep us posted with the results... good luck!
Excellent results. would be cool if you mentioned diy dave who demonstrated this method. i did it 11 months ago and fixed my 1.5dci oil consumption problem
DUUUUUDE!!! I bought a really nice-looking Passat Wolfsburg edition1.8L turbo with 95K miles for my son for graduating college (valedictorian!!) Ends up it went thru 1 QT/1,000 miles. Terrible. I did what you showed with pistons in mid stroke and used 2 cans. 4 hours after the first can 3 of the cylinders had leaked the B12 through to the crank case. I refilled it and the next day put it all back together. Drove it for about 60 miles and changed the oil. I have over 2,000 miles and have not lost a drop!!!! That is amazing but proves the carbon build up on the oil rings is fixable without rebuilding. Thanks for this video. I should send you money!!!
Next time maybe try a dose of tranny fluid in before the plugs to get some compression for easier starting in the beginning.
Great results... glad it worked!!
@@ETMotorsports I now have over 4K and yet to loose ANY oil. WOW
Hi,thx for the vid. I had this oil consumption to with my 2.0 a4. I used oven cleaner for this piston/ rings cleaning proces. It did work out just like your process. But i ran the engine 500km after the cleaning with new oil and filter and renewed the oil and filter again. A lot of fine carbon particles in the oil. Thats why i did renew the oil/ filter twice. Oil consuption did go down 50%😊
Hey great idea... I'm curious which product you used - oven cleaner is usually in spray form which won't work to soak the pistons...
@@ETMotorsports hi, i use.the plastic spray bottle,so you just have to cut open the can so that you can use it as a fluid😁 and poor it in the cil. But its a very agressieve product!! It melts the carbon very fast. The brand i used is HG bbq/ ovencleaner. Dunno if they sell that brand at your place. I live in the Netherlands so maybe its not for sale at your place. But i asume the cleaners work al the same🤔 Use gloves and goggles with this stuf👍
@@ETMotorsports wanna see a real bad engine? Japanese cars are good they say😳 th-cam.com/video/op8i0nxGoH4/w-d-xo.html German language but you will get the idea🙈
Oven cleaner is NaOH which dissolves aluminium!
@rogeronslow1498 good point although if you're only using it to soak pistons and don't run it in the motor you should be ok? It's not an aluminum block so the bottom end should be alright... either way best to not use it
I have a 2013 Q5 and I just completed this same piston soak, and everything went as expected based on the videos you posted. It burned a liter of oil per 900 miles or worse if I idled more. I am at 100 miles now and we'll see how it goes. 🤞
Fingers crossed - please keep us posted on your results
I bought 2012 q5, 98k miles, 3months ago, drives smooth, no check engine lights on. but having to add a qt every 300 miles, this is frustrating, should i try liqui moly enigne flush and your method! i dont tools and enough knowledge like you to follow your steps, pls suggest me what should i do! ty for your video its amazing.@@ETMotorsports
@ocean2823 yeah sounds about the same as the Q5 in the video... yes I would definitely try a piston soak with LiquiMoly engine flush... it should be a good alternative
I tried the liquimoly engine flush a few oil changes in a row with no luck, but it's worth a shot.
@@ETMotorsports 500 miles so far and the oil is still at max. I would be at least half way down by now. I was at a liter per 900 miles before the treatment.
Very nice helpful video, but I think what helps a lot is using fuel cleaners a lot to ensure a clean burn,also maybe engine flush too :)
My car runs like a clock thank's to fuel cleaners .
Hi what fuel cleaner is good? And how often do you use it?
@@romankim3198 I don't live in USA so I can't really say about your brands , I use mainly the cheapest ones I find on sale , STP used to be always on sale here in Italy.
I buy the ones on sale cause I tried 6-7 brands and they all work well.
I use it every other full tank of gas.
Consider the additive costs me 5€/$ and 2 tanks cost me 120$+ ,so it's basically the same price if I don't or do use them.
Basically 1 tank ( or 2 if you wanna be cheap ) straight fuel then additive.
I used to have a bottle of additive to mix every tank of fuel, I used half of what I used for full tank.
So basically I had additive always in my tank.
My car runs like clockwork, no smoke.
And keep in mind it's a pre DPF diesel with still EGR on, so not as clean as pre EGR diesels.
@@dimmacommunication Thanks. I will definitely try some of it
So you don't know what is in the cheap 'cleaners' you are putting in your fuel?
And you surmise thats what kept you safe from this?
How do you actually know they are doing anything, especially as you are using 6-7 brands?
If you're vehicle doesn't actually burn oil at this time, then most likely you can keep it that way if you use a good brand of oil especially a full synthetic, and reasonable oil change intervals like 3-5K miles not matter what the marketing blurb says on the bottle.
If you vehicle is burning oil, then doing a piston soak may well be a good cheap fix a DIY'er can do.
If I owned and Audi, burning or not, I'd do both as a preventative.
There are also oils like HPL which have long lasting cleaning additives which don't burn off in a few hours yet retain oil viscosity rating.
@@boots7859 I know I've been kept safe cause my diesel cars always run better during and after the treatment.
Expecially I had 3 diesel cars in the family before that after a treatment smoked noticeable less.
That's a fact.
Thank you sir🙏 this worked the very first attempt. Brilliant
What were the results? How bad was your consumption ?
@ETMotorsports more than a gallon between 3k oil changes. I was gonna put a new engine in it because I don't want to fuck someone else with it. I tried this a couple months ago. IT WORKED AMAZINGLY! 2012 Audi A4 2.0t 110000mi
Actually lookin back I was burning a quart a week. Less that 200 miles per quart. Mad respect brotha 🙏
I used to do this by flushing the engines with transmission fluid it takes quite a few oil an admirable transmission fluid into your oil help dissolve the build-up
That’s really informative. How did you figure that out. How does a piston soak simulate a ring job. That’s truly incredible
The soak simply loosens up the soot that's built around the rings and allows them to seal up again
I would suggest not dropping the spark plugs in like that you can hit the ground electrode on the end of the plug and mess up the gap which could lead to a misfire
I have a 2012 Q5 with 120,000 kms and started to consume oil…. At this point is using one qt every 3,000 kms which compared to yours it is not too bad…. Anyhow….. I live in El Salvador, Central America… I am not sure if I can get B-12 locally but sure I will love to try…. I also have a ‘11 Q7 with 85,000 kms and this one is not burning oil…. At least not yet…. Thank you very much for your videos I am wishing some more shmucks really get to see useful videos like this one.. keep it up…
Hey thanks for the note... you could use a few different products instead of B12 - keep an eye on your consumption and hopefully it never goes to the level most folks see
Ive got an 07 mazdaspeed3 that I absolutely love. The owner passed it on to me with oil burning issues that went undisclosed. After having the cylinder head done up, valves replaced, and replacing the k04 with a rebuilt, it is still losing about a quart of oil every 400-500 miles with good compression and leakdown. I have immense hope in trying this soak. From considering a $6k engine swap (that i cant afford) to spending 10 dollars in chemtool, I just want to say thank you for this video. I will update when I see the results 👍 wish me luck
Please keep us posted wth your results
Pcv catch can mod
Let me know how it goes ! I have a Mazdaspeed 3 and I am doing the soak right now :)
Hey, did it actually end up working? I have a 06 mazdaspeed 6 and i have the same very high oil consumption with brand new turbo, good compression and good leakdown test results. I'm thinking of doing something like this, would you recommend? Also to add, my car smokes on decel when i tap the throttle.
@@alperena4698 I haven't gotten around to it sadly. December has been a busy month, but im planning on giving it a shot in the next few weeks
When you initially add the b12, do you do it on a warm or cold engine?
I think doing it on a hot engine could help it dissolve better
Good point - I've done both... not sure I can measure the difference but it makes sense to have a warm engine
Most german cars have pretty loose piston rings because their engines are designed to operate on the autobahn. When driven like how we do in the US, the engine is rarely driven hard which means the carbon can build up from oil burning which just makes the issue worse and worse. My suggestion is make a habit of flooring the car once a while to keep carbon from building up.
That orbital intro 💯
Greetings from Northern Ireland, UK! I managed to get a hold of 2 bottles of Berrymans B12 and I'm gonna try this on my 2014 Audi S3 with the gen 3 TFSI engine and about 107k miles. It has an oil burning issue that has been getting progressively worse of the past year or 2. It started with using about a litre every 1300 miles and is down to about a litre every 600 miles. Hopefully this method will also work with the newer gen 3 motors but I will report back after I done it!
Good luck! Keep us posted
I have a 2011 A4 and have been dealing with oil consumption for awhile now. It wasnt bad when I bought the car, but now its terrible. 1L every 260 miles (418km). Shame on me for not looking into it further before buying. Either way now its my problem. I really enjoy the car so ive been weighing the options of what to do. Ive come across the piston soak on an Audi forum (probably the same post you read), but didnt find any other validation until your videos. So long story short, thank you! And please post any updates if/when the consumption returns. Ive also read the fix is only temporary.
Eek those are serious consumption numbers! Yeah we'll have to see the long term value of this but the reality is it costs next to nothing to do a soak at every oil change... if you're doing your own changes and can afford to keep the car down over night there's nothing stopping you from doing this every time... technically speaking you're not really fixing the underlying problem which is the low friction compression rings so eventually you'll get the oil rings acting up again...BUT it sure beats the alternative which is anywhere between 2-5k... please keep us posted wth your results if you end up doing this
I've got a later generation TSI engine, so no direct experience here, but I've heard good things about using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 (or Shell Helix Ultra 0w40 depending where you are). It's not a panacea, but my buddy halved his consumption. In conjuction with something like the piston soak, it might help.
I’ve got a 2010 A4 2.0 at 170,000 kms it’s using 1 L oil /600kms. Audi dealer and aftermarket engine shop are both quoting >$10,000 to rebuild with new pistons etc. (this doesn’t include any cylinder head work). Please provide an update when available. Thanks
BTW, up to 120,000kms it was dealer serviced every 15,000kms and since then I do oil changes every 10,000kms using Liqui Moly 5W-40 VW50200 spec.
@@svenhodaka9145 holy smokes - 10k is a hefty estimate for a 2.0T... the parts are like 2k at best...
@@ETMotorsports yes, 35 hrs labour and including timing chain R&R. 🇨🇦
Hey Eurotrash, I have a 2013 a4 with 90,000 km burning 1 liter per 4000km. I am thinking of trying the piston soak before it gets worse. Do you thing this is a good idea? Thanks
Update: Have performed the piston soak using 1 can of berrymans on Aug 24 2023, will update will oil consumption rate as it comes.
Update 2: (September 19th): Put about 2500km on the car and the oil level still reads full, Seems like zero consumption. I am using Penzoil 5w40 euro.
Hey that's within spec for sure but there's really no downside to doing a piston soak - can't really hurt anything... at your next oil change just do one up and let us know if it fixed up the consumption... maybe instead of B12 try sea foam as it's less aggressive...or LiquiMoly engine flush
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the response! I orded some b12 chemtool on amazon and I plan on doing the soak next month when I change the oil at 8000km interval. I am hoping that this will help prevent the rings from getting stuck and improve oil consumption. I will update the results, if this works it could be a method that can be used whenever the car starts to use more oil again a few thousands km down and repeat the process to maintain an oil consumption level that is acceptable and manageable. That is the goal, I hope to get at least 3-4 more years out of this vehicle and I will be happy!
@thomasoneill1077 yah you can do that every year or as long as it helps... do it the first time and see if it improves things...btw you can use the B12 in the gas too - helps keep the injectors clean
Update #2: The oil consumption has returned to about 1 l per 4500km, it was at full level for almost 3000km then randomly droped very quickly. I will try this again soon but with 2 bottles and a longer soak time of 2 full nights. I noticed that one of the spark plugs threads had oil on them the last time I took them out from the first soak.
You mentioned at the beginning of the video that the previous owner didn't tell you that it (the second car with the oil consumption issue) burned oil however a little later you said that the car smokes a lot, at start up too. Seems to me that would have been your first clue that it burns a lot of oil without the owner mentioning it. Thanks for sharing this video!
I'm the one that looked at the car when we bought it - I didn't notice any signs of oil consumption and I wasn't looking at the exhaust specifically... the car was actually very well maintained and was a single owner... it's a lesson learned for sure - I'll be a lot more diligent looking at 2.0ts in the future
Great channel, great content
Glad you enjoy it!
you should mention or warn about hydrolocking the engine rather important
Hmm good point but there's never any liquid in the chamber when I start the car after 24hrs...definitely don't crank after just pouring the liquid in
@@ETMotorsportsany follow up on the compression checks?
How fast will the chemtool leak down?
So you poured in 100 ml and left for 6 hours, then rotated the crank a few times.
Then it seemed like there was less added a few more times over 24 hours?
Did you rotate the crank again after further soaks?
How much time did you allow between last add and putting plugs back in for fire up?
We have a 2005 Mazda 3 where cyl 1 has visible oil in the cyl around the piston. Plug on this cyl oil fouled big time. Typically goes through a quart in 400-600 miles. Funny not much smoke at the exhaust though.
Probably worth a try!
If the engine has burned oil for a long time, the piston rings might have damaged the cylinder walls.
Exactly!
B12 costs $5.
Is it worth trying?
Needed a bore scope before and after shot, but the spark plugs were in bad shape. Good video 😊
I took the shots but there wasn't much to see... the pistons do look a bit cleaner but that's about it
How is the car doing now? do you think this would work on a Toyota engine like the 2AZ-FE ?@@ETMotorsports
@@LazyHarpseal 3k km + still no light... I'm keeping an eye on it to see how far it makes it before the light goes on
spectacular! I'm a little nervous to try on my toyota but I think I am going to bite the bullet@@ETMotorsports
I have a 2014 Kia Sportage with the GDI engine that started burning oil at 80,000 and has gotten progressively worse. I hate it because the rest of the car has been great. I'm going to try this....Thanks!
Good luck - let us know how it goes
Thanks for the video! I followed this procedure on my mom's 2014 Q5 100k miles burning a quart every 300 mi. When I pulled the plugs and looked in the cylinders with a borescope I saw carbon buildup on the cylinder as well as some small metal pieces. I sucked those out with a vacuum before leveling the cylinders and putting a bottle of b12 in across 4 cyl and following the flush procedure (rotate, fill, etc). After the flush, the car was misfiring like crazy and the check engine and EPC lights came on. It calmed down a bit after idling for 15 minutes but when I drove it it was still misfiring so I kept the drive short and brought it inside.
I changed the oil again and the spark plugs and now it is running a little better and there is a consistent P0302 Misfire Cylinder 2 code and P2015 Intake Manifold runner code. The compression test before the flush showed C1: 170psi, C2: 170psi, C3: 160psi, C4: 170psi and after the flush it is C1: 180 psi, C2: 90psi, C3: 180psi, C4: 180psi so cylinder two seems to have significantly lost compression after the flush and is consistent with the misfire code. The P2015 is also a bit weird as the manifold runner flap moves freely and I didn't have it before the flush.
This isn't a great situation as the car was driveable before (albeit guzzling oil) and now I need to do something to take care of this misfire before I can say anything about the oil consumption. Any ideas on what to try next? Is it possible that cylinder 2's piston ring got stuck open after the flush and another flush on cylinder 2 could help? Or is the ring likely shot?
Hey thanks for the info... sorry to hear you're having issues...I'd say that low compression is causing your misfire and yes I think you're logic makes sense - the compression ring is probably stuck...if I was dealing with this, I'd start with a soak on cyl 2v only... you know exactly what you're looking for so perhaps B12 for 6hrs, compression test, B12 for 6hrs, compression test etc... multiple viewers noted seeing dissolved carbon left over on the walls of the cylinder when rotating by hand so keep an eye on that cylinder as you soak and rotate...
Now I'm a bit curious about the metal pieces that you saw before you started - were you able to figure out what those were?
@@ETMotorsports Yes, that just turned out to be a reflection of the b12 from the light at the end of my borescope lol. When I scraped them out turned out to be carbon and oil. However, after running another 2 bottles of b12 through cylinder 2, including using a hand pump and a tube to ensure it was covering all sides of the cylinder, and running the engine for 10 minutes on 3 separate days, I'm in the same situation. Low compression (90psi) on cylinder 2 and a persistent P0302, P0354 and and P2015 code. There are also P0300, P0302, P0304 and P0506 codes pending.
Any idea what I could do next? Would a leak test be useful? Is the engine shot? I'm wondering if carbon has been sent elsewhere in the system and is causing these other codes to pop up.
Bump. I could really use some guidance here. Any ideas on what I could try next?
I followed this procedure to a T and now my car is undriveable. I really believed that this process was low risk and I’m kinda screwed now that this cylinder has lost so much compression.
Does that P2015 intake manifold runner code give any clues as to what else is going on? Any advice from you or anyone else that has experience with the procedure would be really helpful.
@xer0n747 hey the first thing I would do is repeat the soak to be honest with you...a few users have reported worse consumption after the first soak which gets corrected after doing a repeat soak... one use saw the exact opposite - went from low compression to higher compression across the board... unfortunately this isn't exact science - nobody knows what the state of the rings was before the soak or what's stuck now... it sounds like the first soak got your compression ring on #2 stuck so you need to repeat the process...
Maybe it's a good idea to just do #2 and leave the other 3 cylinders alone... basically take the plugs out, soak #2 for another 24hrs with rotation in between, clean the plugs, run the engine again with B12, change the oil and maybe use Rotella T6 with some Seafoam added (not much) and run for 1000km before changing again
As for the intake - not sure what to say - this process has nothing to do wth that so it's either a coincidence or maybe something got unplugged or damaged in the process
@@ETMotorsports thanks for getting back to me. I did run another 2 bottles of b12 through cylinder 2 alone after your last recommendation. I can try it again.
I have seen some people using Rotella T6, but I thought that was because the thicker oil would bring some compression back. Are you saying to use T6 for another flush?
I did this exactly as you did for my 2010 A5. I changed oil every 5k miles from purchase to 180k miles on the clock. At 150K the oil consumption was getting worse at every change. At 175k, it needed to add a quart every 1500 miles. After this DIY, I did not need to add any oil between the change at 180K. I am changing now at 185K and it needed no oil between changes.
Nice work!
Love the content bro! Just did chain,tensioners,guide myself also bearings control arms ecs tuning high flow cat Down pipe on my 2010 a4 147xxx miles runs great no issues but burns qt every 500 miles or so will def try this
nice...sounds like you're going to keep the car for a while...
Was it working in the end?
@@AHBAFab yes it worked
@@buffalotroll2358 can you tell me which motor do u have? and how much did it get better from 1qt/500 miles? thanks
I'm next one who use your advise to fix my Audi oil problem in a4 B8 1.8 tfsi 2014. Was not so bad as yours but was burning lately more , I think around 300 ml on every 1k km . After completing the procedure of soaking rings in b-12 I drove 1300 km and I have still max oil level . Thank you very much for that video it helps me a lot ! Wish you all the best !
great! I've had quite a few 1.8TFSI folks do this successfully - it's annoying that the later years are still having these issues when they should have been fixed
@@ETMotorsports thats true , but I'm glad I could fix it on my own for just like 20 dollars or so. I'm very happy hehe . In my mind I was already preparing for fixing that problem in some specialized garage for big amount of money, and now I can maybe spend money on stage 1 :)
Great video. Just picked up a 30.T S4 drinking oil like crazy. Going to try this out on it and see how we fair. Thanks
I'm trying to fix a 3.0t q7 right now... it's doing 1L/400km
Thanks for the videos great work! I just think you got the camera to check cilinders before and after to see differences and trying to know really the problem. Now we have more information like a solvent (injector cleaner) its doing something that help or solve the problem (of course temporarily) so what's doing and how to avoid happening again. Looks like lubricant rings get dirty and stuck and stop working well/properly. So maybe an additive detergent inthe oil can last longer the solution? Just thinking. Maybe a forum to discuss all us involved in this issue can find the best solution. Also could you put on description the products and alternatives for countries where can't buy B12, please? Thanks again!
Just want to add to a comment that I made here a while back. I was getting excessive smoke, burning a lot of oil and the emissions were off the chart. I wouldn't have had a hope of passing our national car test with those emission readings and I was being advised by a mechanic to scrap the car or else do an engine rebuild. Anyway, I did a few piston soaks over a period of a couple of months and recently I passed the national car test on the emissions 😊 I was more than surprised as the car is still burning a little oil, nothing like it was but it's still not perfect. The plugs are still sooty when I check them and I can still see a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust when I start the car first thing in the morning but all of these symptoms were several times worse before I soaked the pistons so it definitely made a significant difference to the extent that I can now legally keep the car on the road. I would say to anyone wondering about the benefits of this process is to try it, you've little to lose. The first soak produced the best effect for me where the oil consumption went down by 80%. The next soaks produced less effect though they stopped the plugs from getting very oily and sometimes misfiring on one cylinder in particular. My advise to anyone is not to expect perfection after the process. If you can reduce oil consumption by a significant degree and if you keep an eye on your plugs, keep them clean and maybe put an additive in the oil and fuel tank regularly then your car may well go from being a write off to something salvageable. Don't give up 😊. I learned a lot during this process and managed to keep my car on the road so it was definitely something worth doing. The mechanic I mentioned who told me the engine was shot scoffed when I told him about TH-cam videos advocating piston soaks but he looked a little sheepish when I went back with my car test results 😋 Another mechanic refused to even work on the car because I told him it was burning oil. To the maker of this vid, thanks for the knowledge and for posting, it's much appreciated 👍
Hey those are great results - thanks for the comment! It sounds like your car was pretty bad to begin with - happy that it's back on the road... smaller amounts of oil can be lost from other sources - turbo, pcv etc. - make sure all that is checked and accounted for... but even 80%+ reduction is significant...
I'm not surprised the mechanics don't want to do this - they have plenty of reasons all of which make sense... there's zero guarantee that this will work, it takes quite a bit longer than a regular oil change, they make a lot more money rebuilding the engine etc. Plenty of people even in the comments here have been very skeptical but anybody that has tried has had positive results...
I have a 2016 Tiguan thats "seeping" some oil from the valve cover, the pendulum fitting, and for some reason out of the turbo inlet. I also got lots of "blowby" condensation in my ECS Tuning catch can. My oil gets changed every 6 month as I don't put tons of miles on the engine, and the filter every 3 months because I mainly use the car in city driving, traffic, stop-and-go, and short trips. I changed that PCV valve/Africa Plate on top of the valve cover and noticed less blowby in my catch can, less oil seepage around areas where it was coming from, and what looks to be residual oil from the turbo inlet. The dealer and a specialty shop couldn't properly diagnose and correct this problem.
I don't have excessive oil consumption, and Amsoil isn't known for burning off very rapidly. Oh...I just dumped a full can of B-12 chemtool in the gas tank with 15 gal of 92 octane. Guess I'll keep it up. Thanks for the video.
Why would you change the oil filter more often than the oil?
I am about to pull the LS3 on my Camaro SS that I am 90% certain has stuck piston ring(s) and redo them all. Watched a f3w of these types of videos but this merhod seemed the most thorough. Certainly worth a shot to see if I get lucky. Might save me many hours of labor and money if it works.
Good luck! I just did a 3.0T v6 motor and the amount of garbage that came out of the cylinders after B12 was incredible... keep us posted with your results
I have a 2005 Tacoma with 150,000 that was using oil between changes I used Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case and conventional oil and left it in for 1,000 miles and changed it back to Mobil 1 oil it was a big change in oil consumption
Great info, don’t drop your plugs like that. Plugs should be treated like eggs, drop one once, drop it in the trash next.
I would not crank the starter for more than 10 seconds or else it will burn out. You might also get a P0420 code because the O2 sensors are contaminated. Use lacquer thinner to clear that out using Scotty Kilmer's method. Thanks for this video!
Good tip!
Nice job
Gonna try this on my son inlaw's 2002 honda accord se. Has same isdues
Good info bro
Nice work I’m going to try this out like u said what do I have to lose
Helpful for sure and this technique has been used with various chemicals for a long time to free a stuck series of rings.
You gotta work on your spark plug install technique though
I have a Honda CRV that burns oil, gonna try the Berryman soon.
Man i wish i could do this on my subaru :( has the flat 4 ej25 engine :( good work though, cant wait for the followup
Haha I just told another viewer that a boxer is the only thing you can't do that to... hmm I wonder if you can pour liquid in and then put compressed air in the cylinder...I did that when I did the seals on the 2.0T to keep the valves up but it works the same way pushing against the piston...
good video and show ow to do it. ohh ths is also a good way of saying. change oil often. then it keeps good and not bild up that easy. But good to have a try out with b12 .
I did a flush on a 2l pasat tdt from 2002. (not with b12)., who was bad. bad turbo and smoky.,.,smell like urh,,, but after treatment, run nice. the turbo workt a lot better.
very interesting & genius