Berryman's B12 Chemtool vs. oil conusmption Update | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 16
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2022
- In this video we keep driving the Corolla until the oil reaches the bottom dot on the dipstick. How many miles will it go?😮
Music:
Tea Time by Ofshane
Berryman's B12: www.walmart.com/ip/B-12-FUEL-...
#oilburner #stuckrings #pistonrings #1zz
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this TH-cam channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I work on cars professionally for a living, and also have personal experience with these Corollas as my mom owned a Prizm variant since new for a better part of two decades. She ended up moving on for this same reason. We just felt it wasn't worth putting new rings, pistons, and reworking the block.
I tried several oil treatments and flushes, and it does work *temporarily* the issue stems in more than just dirty or worn oil rings. It has a lot to do with worn compression rings and cylinder walls as well. What happens is the more miles you put on it, the more blow by escapes past the upper rings and bakes the oil in the control rings. So while initially the flush will clean out any debris, you will just develop new sediment as the fresh oil in the control rings is baked during combustion.
Good points, seems a design flaw with low tension rings in the first place. I think the oil control ring would be better cleaned from the crankcase, maybe a small amount of diesel added to the oil might help keep rings clean? Don't quote me on that one, I've seen lots of diesel engine blowpass diesel into the crank case and still ran fine without tearing out the berrings. Try at your own risk folks! and make sure you're happy to give up on the engine if it seizes.
Wait you weren't blessed with the 4a?
It's the lack of holes in the oil ring land. All the car makers were trying for fuel economy because of EPA standards
I did exactly what you did on my 2010 Audi A4 Avant. Before the berry man treatment, i’m adding 1 liter of oil every 200miles. After the BerryMan treatment, im at 1500miles and low oil alarm hasn’t pop up yet and dips stick level is right on the middle!
Great to hear!
Dave as you know I have been following since the beginning of this series. I love that something appears to be working looking forward to the future videos and updates! Thank you so much for doing this as you can see from the other comments viewers definitely appreciate it.
Thanks, Glenn 🙂🙂
Again Dave, excellent update and series. Love your attention to detail and let's hope the next B12 treatment helps it even more.
Thanks again, Thomas!
Interesting update, looking forward for another treatment. Keep up the good work!
After watching your video and the posts from others who have had positive results, I decided to try this on a 2004 Highlander 4WD that we gave to our daughter for a college car. We bought the car in 2006 with 24K on it and has had regular maintenance done during its life. It has the 2AZ engine and now has 277K on the odometer and used about a quart every 400 miles.
Did like the video by removing the plugs, leveling the pistons, and pouring B12 in each cylinder. Rotating engine by rachet every few hours adding more B12 each time, but did this over 2 days instead of 24 hours. In the meantime, I cleaned the plugs, PCV valve, MAFF sensor, and blew out the air filter. Ended up using 2 cans B12 (30 oz) in the cylinders which most eventually soaked thru into the crankcase. Poured another can B12 into the gas tank. At the end of the 2 days, used rolled up shop towels in the spark plug holes to soak up what I could from the cylinders and then blew out the cylinders with compressed air. Replaced the plugs, coils, etc, and top off with oil. Took it a while to start and when it did, idled rough for about 8-10 seconds, then smoothed out. Never did get a check engine light. Went for a drive using second gear (auto tranny) for about 25 minutes maintaining 5000 rpm which is about 55 mph. Didn't want to push it any harder on this old engine. Then changed the oil & filter using Penzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w30 and zeroed the trip odometer. Now after the treatment, it ran 1509 miles before we had to add any oil. MUCH improvement!! Thanks for posting these videos or I would not have discovered this treatment.
Thank you so much for the comment Jerry! These testimonials are a huge contribution to the experiments. I'm so glad it is working for you!
I can’t watch you drive around for 20 more minutes
Hello, what is the situation now? I want to do this treatment too, but I'm worried that the pistons will be too dry after cleaning the b12 off the top of the pistons. To do this, do you think it is a bad idea to pour some oil on the pistons, rotate the engine by hand, then draw out the oil with a long-tube syringe and then start the engine?
You are dedicated. Thanks for all the work it has taken you to share this with us all.
Really enjoying this series. Looking forward to seeing how much it helps.
Hi Dave - enoyed your recent couple of videos on the stuck piston rings. I'm dealing with a similar issue over on my channel with the Toyota 22RE and have been having some luck using B12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner as well (a product I have loved and used for many, many years). On my motor, I have a gauge to monitor crankcase blow-by pressures in real time while driving and this has helped me narrow down which methods have worked the best to help improve piston ring sealing. I wanted to share the approach I used, which has really worked well, in case you might find it helpful or worth trying also. Here is what I do:
1. Remove spark plugs, rotate motor 90 degrees past TDC so that all pistons are 1/2 down in cylinders
2. Pour 20-30 ml of B12 chemtool injector cleaner into each cylinder
3. Rock pistons up and down a little, wait 5 minutes
4. Re-install spark plugs finger tight
5. *Slowly* rotate motor 8 full revolutions using a ratchet on the crank damper bolt - taking each cylinder through several full compression strokes
6. Wait 15-20 minutes
7. Remove spark plugs and crank engine for 10 seconds using starter, thus drawing gasoline into cylinders to help wash cylinder walls
B12 fuel injector cleaner is the best at dissolving carbon (based on my tests using different chemicals to dissolve carbon on top of spare pistons I have around the shop). It takes about 20-30 minutes usually. In the method outlined above, when you put the spark plugs back in and slowly take the motor through a number of full rotations, this forces cylinder compression down past the rings - and this also helps drawing the B12 down along with it. This should prove much more effective than just allowing the B12 to soak in the chambers alone. Obviously, you have to rotate the motor by hand, not with the starter, or you risk bending a rod, etc. due to the hydro-locking effect. However, in my experience, when rotating the motor by hand, without a lot of force, the compression (and also the B12) will slip pretty readily past the piston rings without damaging anything inside the motor. Also, after doing this, the B12 ends up in the motor oil; I leave the B12 in the oil for a while and also add a full can of B12 fuel injector cleaner to the gas - I think this combination continues to hit the rings from both directions (fuel and oil).
When I used this method on my 22RE, I noticed a major reduction in blow-by gases after only about 50-60 miles. Using this method, as well as just B12 in the cylinders in general, has also reduce the amount of oil showing up on my spark plugs to almost zero now. If you decide to try it yourself, I would be interested to see the results you might see on your motor (if you haven't already tried using this "push the B12 down the pistons via compression" method yet).
Much thanks will try this on my 1999 toyota rav4 with 250,000 miles
Hey I like your approach. Although I think you are missing tone of the main point of the solvent. The longer it is in contact with the carbon and sludge the more it dissolves. Soak the pistons for a longer amount of time! Not that you are wrong at all just could improve your results. BTW how are you measuring blowby pressure?
@@paladain55 Yeah, I hear ya. Right now I've got brake fluid (which is a bit thicker) in the cylinders in an effort to keep it in contact with the rings more. The "pushing the B12 past the rings" idea helps, but it may also run the B12 past the rings too fast. I'm not totally sure. I just bought a bore camera so I can look around in there and monitor the situation. So we'll see. I'm about to flush the brake fluid with B12 to see what happens. As far as monitoring the crankcase vacuum/pressure levels, I have a dual channel PCV valve and it has a diagnostic port on it for tuning, which you can also use to see crankcase pressure/vacuum levels while you drive; so i just attached a hose from that to an airplane suction gauge. Check my channel and you can see some of the recent videos where I show it.
@@ray5961 You should try draining the oil and using e85. Works great. You can leave it in for as long as you want so the goal is to leave it in as long as you can. I just let it drip past the rings into the pan through gravity, and I put the piston in different positions to get the intake valves, exhaust valves, upper chamber all soaking.
@@paladain55 Interesting. E85 dissolves the carbon? I've done tests with B12 and it seems to do the best job dissolving carbon on some spare pistons I have. I've never tried E85 though.
Thank you for making this berryman series, really great measuring and video editing for us Toyota viewers!!
Thank YOU for watching!
Already ordering mine lol thanks for your huge collection of videos dedicated to this engine and subject because it really does affect a lot of them I've owned 3 corollas now all had this problem all around the same consumption as yours. I already know you'll do another round and keep us updated. Much appreciated from Australia ❤️
Edit. Each of the oil changes and treatments followed with full fresh oil and filter will be doing their detergent thing too so I feel super positive about this 😊
Thanks for all the encouragement, Jeff! 😊and all the best with your treatments!
Hi, is it not an option to put 1 liter of carb cleaner in every spark plug hole and let it sit for 1 week and drain the oil afterwards?
Subbed at the beginning of this journey. Your videos are exceptional. Love the channel.
Thank you, Carmen!
Yessss, excellent work. Love this series. This will need the Berrymans treatment at least two more times.
Then always run seafoam in the engine oil to prevent this problem returning
I think MMO would be a better option for keeping the pistons clean
Dunno if anyone else has pointed out the fact that you can still see the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls, but that is from the honing process, and the fact that you can still see it indicates MINIMAL cylinder wear. If the barrymans treatment can release the oil rings on those pistons, that engine will likely last you the rest of your life.
Agree. I thought the same.
Then why is it burning oil
Because the oil rings get enough carbon / sludge build up in them that they are not able to stay in contact with the cylinder walls. Thereby allowing oil to pass by the compression and backup rings and enter the combustion chamber. Getting the sludge out will allow them to seal against the cylinder walls and slow, if not stop, the oil burning.
doesnt matter that you can see the crosshatch pattern, if there is a single dark spot where it faded the engine is more or less done
!Perform this treatment at your own risk!
Previous video in the series: th-cam.com/video/EG70jHiT-S0/w-d-xo.html
Next video in the series: th-cam.com/video/e9tNXr0Ynm8/w-d-xo.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Can't wait for your next update! I have an 11 rav4 that just started using roughly 1.25 qts every 4000, hoping I can fix the problem before it progresses! Keep up the excellent work sir 👏
Thanks! All the best with your Rav4!
Really enjoyed the travelogue nature of the vid. Also looking forward to the end results.
Thanks for the kind comment, Eric!
Wow! Remember when it was just me commenting on your videos! Way to go Dave! Grow this channel 👍
I know, right? I was wondering where you've been 🤔😁
Loving these Corolla videos!
Glad to hear it ... wish I could get more miles on it sooner for you guys.
Finally been waiting for this episode
Another great video DIY Dave. I love your attention to detail, and also your effort sticking with the scientific method for testing the different variables. I am really looking forward to seeing what another B12 spark plug hole and crankcase treatment does for this motor. Might I suggest something? I would also add another step into your spark plug hole B12 fluid addition (What if you used a wooden dowel through the spark plug hole, and while the B12 liquid is in the cylinder bore, hold dowel rod against piston top, and tap the opposite end of the dowel rod lightly several times with a hammer.) Please keep up the good videos!
Thanks, Brian, and thanks for the suggestion! I can see how the tapping might encourage the fluid into the cracks and crannies.
"BG dynamic engine restoration" is normally a product only available to dealers but there is one seller on Amazon that sells the kit. It's $320 so it's not cheap. It will make that engine like new. Not only will it unstick the oil control rings it will clean the vvt system and every part of the engine that oil touches. I know a lot of people call these products snake oil and it's for good reason. I've used BG's products and they are legit. That $320 kit has saved several condemned engines for me. Run it through and scope it. Not just the cylinders but inside the rocker cover and anywhere else you can fit that scope. Do a before and after. You will be impressed.
That's really impressive. Good to know that something actually works, thanks for uploading. My 94 Accord is only burning a quart every 2000-2500 miles so I don't really feel the need to do anything about it, but I'm glad to know I have something worth trying if it ever got worse.
I HIGHLY recommend you clean your piston rings now, while the oil consumption is low. The rings will be MUCH easier to clean and unstick while the contamination is low, and you can use a bottom end treatment with great effect. I.E., pouring Seafoam, Liqui-moly, BG EPR, etc into the crank case and running it for 30 minutes then changing the oil. This is MUCH LESS work and so much time saved if you treat the problem now, BEFORE the rings get to level of stuck that Dave's Corolla. Then you are forced to use a top down method, and spend so much more money and time on the problem.
Don't want to clog your catalytic converter or foul up your O2 sensor(s) either...
If you don’t start cleaning your motor now it will be junk later
I agree with the others, start it now while one treatment may well solve the issue.
Do it right. Use top tier GAS-- Chevron, Shell, Costco.. Use AMSoil, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Costco dexos gen 3 oil. Put in a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in gas tank every other tank fill up. Don't let your oil get more than 1 qt low. Change oil every 5k miles or sooner
I followed this oil burning stuff since the beginning... This one is probable my favorite one! Makes me happy when I see fathers spending time with their children.
And what a great results from B12. Simply amazing!
Glad you enjoy it. Thanks for watching!
great video Dave. keep us posted
Thanks, James! Will do.
Dave thanks for the update on the Corolla. This week I passed 3,000 miles on my prism since I did the BG EPR flush. It's used 2 quarts in 3,000 miles. Before the flush it was using 1 quart every 1,200. If my calculation is right the BG EPR improved it to a quart every 1,500 miles. In other words no where near the improvement you saw with B12. I guess I'll have to try the B12 in my engine. Also I agree with your assessment that the space between the dots is more like 1 1/4 quarts. Thanks again for sharing all of this with us.
Awesome results for the first treatment.
I got a 2007 Camry for my grandaughter, beautiful car from a 20 year friend. Your videos help me , but most importantly her. Knowledge is power. I had her changing oil at 10 Y.O. !!
That is awesome!
Big difference after treatment! I'm still doing further test on my as far as using different oils. I'm around 300miles to a half quart. On first oil change. Now using high mileage to see what the results are. Then may do another treatment soon. Keep the vids coming sir!
Please do let us know if anything works, Martin!
I really enjoy your show and how thorough you are in this process and in reporting your impressions and findings. I've been following the whole series and love it. By the way. The pistons you refer to as "clean" is because carbon deposits cant stick to oily surfaces. When oil passes the piston rings and gets on the pistons, carbon cant stick to the piston because oil is slippery. So if a piston has carbon in the center and clean around the just the outer perimeter only a small amount of oil is passing by rings but if the whole piston is clean then a crap load of oil is passing the rings.
Thanks, Brad. And that's encouraging to hear!
Thanks for the update. I followed this method on my 09prius but I didn't run the car with the B12 in the crankcase. Oil consumption has been reduced from 0.75qt/1k mi to
Great info. Thanks!
What you are doing is very similar to a Hyundai / Kia TSB that I read recently. I am dealing with a 2015 Forte that burns around a quart every 300 miles. In the TSB, the dealership is supposed to inject several ounces of a cleaning solvent into each cylinder with a syringe, through the spark plug hole. After letting it sit overnight, they draw the solvent out to prevent hydro lock, and fire up the engine. The next steps are to repeat the process, add more solvent, then pressurize each cylinder (valves closed) to force the solvent down past the rings, removing any remaining solvent from the cylinders. Then reinstall plugs, run engine, afterwards change oil and filter.
Your oil consumption video has helped so much.. 2014 passat 1.8l turbo... about a quarter of oil every 300 miles.. I tried 3 different engine oil flushes.. no change in oil consumption! I finally gave the Berryman b12 a try... I only used 1 can and let it soak for 48 hrs... and I only rocked the pistons up and down every 4 hrs... I refilled with Rotella t6... the first 800 miles, only down half a quart.. I am so happy with the results and never would have tried this.. thank you for your help and videos!
Great to hear!
I wish I had found your videos a year ago. I was having terrible oil burning issues on my Isuzu Trooper and tried lots of things that didn't work before giving it a similar treatment with Seafoam and getting similar results. I should have done this first.
Can’t wait for the next video
I've been waiting for this video
This worked for me! Thanks for the video. My vw tiguan no longer burns oil. Its been 5 months and oil level is good.
Great videos. I started watching your channel on the first Berryman treatment. Great follow up. I am currently doing oil consumption test on brand new to me 2014 Honda CRV, 155500 miles but has had decent oil changes based on Carfax. Did oil change with Penzoil Platinum high mileage and did Gumout fuel treatment at gas fill up. Yours is the best video for cheap ring decarbon. Thanks, awaiting next follow up.
Thanks, Jeff. I wish you the best with your crv!
We have a 2013 crv with 142,000. Getting ready to try this as I have blowby and burning 1 qt every 1,000 miles. Hopefully this helps
Okay I myself have used b12 for years. I also am a tech. I've learned old and new school. So that said here is an old school trick
water!! Get a squirter bottle
While engine running 2k-25hundred runs squirter down intake listening for engine to Bog down then stop and repeat several times do when engine is warm the shock of water breaks up all the carbon. Been doing it for years. Oh and it works. Also for glazed cylinders add Ajax (bonami) to mix. That trick is from GM it self original small blocks had cylinder glazing issues
I did an abbreviated version of your treatment, Dave, at my last oil change. Preventative maintenance.
Just started 1st Berryman's treatment on my vibe just this morning. Yup, one pug had a ton of oil when I pulled them. Just like my mechanic told me. Said the Saturns used to have this issue too. I put some seafoam in my crankcase as well. Im sticking with Seafoam for the crankcase since Berryman's says like 10-12 min run time on the engine before oil change while the latter says 100-300 miles. Will do berryman's in the tank as well.
Spark plug gaskets on valve cover look to be leaking, thank you for the update!
Great job. 👍
Thanks, Norm!
Great video! Check the egr valve for carbon deposits from oil burning causing your idle issue. My 95 Camry had similar issue. I took it off it was packed full of carbon. I cleaned it issue was resolved.
I ran into a similar issue. Cleaning every few months helps out significantly
Never tried the B12 Chemtool, but we do a lot of BG Engine flushes at the Honda dealership I'm at. So far the results are pretty positive. Definitely seems like you'll probably need one of the treatments that you add with the oil and run the engine for ~20-30 minutes at around 3000 RPM. The heat plus the additive seems to do a good job at busting stuck rings free.
I will admit I was skeptical about such products and their claims, but the results speak for themselves. Of course the best remedy for most cars with engines prone to burning oil is to change the oil much sooner before it has the chance to start burning oil. Not really feasible on these old Corollas anymore unless you find an example with only 20-30,000 miles on it (there are plenty of people here near and inside of DC who go less than 2000 miles per year, so I actually see a lot of low mileage cars at the dealership), but it would work great at preventing it in newer cars where oil burning seems to be the norm rather than the exception. Avoid going over 5000 miles between oil changes unless you drive very frequently and you do almost entirely highway driving (if you only drive periodically or mostly on a city or at low speed, change it every year or 3000 miles, whichever comes first).
My Isuzu Rodeo has been sitting for 8 months with only starting two times briefly. I was told to use Marvel Mystery Oil at about 1 tsp per lifter. The rodeo already is known for having noisy ticking but I'm just trying to figure out what I should do the first time I start the car and thereafter for a few thousand miles. I was thinking about just doing an oil change and then changing the oil again about 500 to 1000 miles thereafter. MMO at one quart or BG? Any other advice. Should I drain the fuel line before starting it? Flush the radiator?
@@williamperri3437 check the fuel tank, probably has a drain plug in it, you will need a new sealing washer.
Take the plugs out and dribble a mixture of 50/50 Acetone/ATF in the cylinders and let it sit for a couple of days. Check it every so often and dribble more as it empties. Change the oil after this is done and then start it.
The coolant should be done like this: get a really good flush, like BG coolant flush. Take some coolant out of the radiator and put flush in, top off with the coolant that was taken out. Now drive it for an entire week while running the heater the whole time, fan doesn't have to be on, just the heat has to be at full heat. Then flush the system with distilled water or new coolant. Guess I should do video of how to do this stuff?
Hope this helps.
Between the 2 dots is around 1.2L for me, I have 2SZ-FE (in a Toyota Vitz). Previously I had a diesel car (Citroen Xsara Turbo D) with its between dots was around 1.2L. These 2 cars have/had oil burning issues. One I fixed by having the engine rebuilt some 13 years ago (already sold the car), the consumption had reached so much that I was putting a litre of oil every 350KM! The Vitz is the one my dad is still driving and burns a litre of oil every 5000KM. By the way thank you for making these videos.
My 2000 Corolla CE is nearing 296K miles and is using some oil. But a gallon is about $22 and lasts easily 1 month. I have not had a car payment in 15 years... But this is good to know and a good product to buy...
I worked as a tech at the dealer when these were new. We found a BG or Toyota induction service every 20K along with regular oil changes worked well on these. If not, the pistons came out.
BG is very good stuff but pricey.
@@peterlai9018 look up the MSDS sheet for any BG product, and you will see that it consists of regular products that you can buy at the paint store.
Thanks for documenting all this. I'm going through a similar issue with my wife's 2012 Volvo XC60. It has a known manufacturer defect in the oil rings which I believe is causing the same issue to the oil drains I believe. I've been doing seafoam treatments but going to give the B12 a shot. Unfortunately with the mileage now around 190k, Volvo won't do anything, even though they admitted it was a problem.
Subscribed so I can see your next update!
I just did a B12 soak on our xc60 with 80k. It was using about 1qt every 1-2k miles.
@@suped89 how did you get on? Did you see much improvement? Thinking of doing the same on my XC60
We used to clean aircraft turbochargers with Berryman B12. Good stuff.
I wish you were doing MPG results at the same time of these experiments! I like these videos!
i love your brick porch dude
Something else you could give a whirl is Castrol Ultraclean motor oil. I have an old 94 Chevy K1500 with a 350SBC, kind of a pass down truck. Anyway it had really stuck rings with a similar oil consumption rate. Mostly due to Dad just topping off with DG brand oil for 10+ years and hardly ever changing it, since he didn't daily it. I ran Berrymans as an engine flush(dumped in/ran while hot)for 10 minutes and let it sit overnight. Ran it next morning for another 10, drained it. It's my standard new to me vehicle first oil change procedure. And put in the Ultraclean oil. Drove it about 800 miles before I parked it for other issues, but it didn't hardly burn any oil, that I could see on the stick anyway. Inside the valve covers continued to look MUCH better as I drove it. It was cakey at first. The ultraclean or a thin HDEO(like Motorcraft 10w30 Diesel oil) would help clean while you run it. I would dare say with my experience with Berrymans, is eventually what you are doing will definitely continue to get the consumption down using Berrymans alone. Try doing the next treatment with the engine hot aswell, it seems to do better anytime I do something like this when it's good and warm. I'd also try just working the crankshaft back and forth a 1/4 turn or so. Using a breaker bar as opposed to spinning around a few times. Less effort and probably better results I'd imagine if you can really shake'r. Love the videos by the way, very enjoyable to watch. Quiet, calm tone without a bunch of loud, flashy and exciting nothing. But not excessively slow and boring. Great job.
Thanks for all that, Jeremy. Lots of good info!
3x improvement. Very nice.
This is awesome! A lot of Subaru engines (mostly EJ253's) burn a lot of oil due to crusty piston rings. Only problem is that since they have horizontally opposed cylinders, I don't think you could get the same effect with using Berryman's B12.... Unless you put the engine sideways and did 2 cylinders at a time. Haha.
Regardless, thank you for documenting this!!! Very useful info!
Some airplane (opposed cylinder, air cooled motors) guys do the same thing as noted in another comment above .. put enough B12 into the cylinder to fill the cylinder and replace the plug (do one cylinder at a time, otherwise the effort is too high on a big ci motor) and put pressure (hand pressure only!) on the crank to force the B12 through the ring pack. Do this repeatedly on the most suspect cylinders and reevaluate.
Great job buddy
Thanks!
Lol just like the critical part of a cell phone conversation, the signal will drop as if on que, just like a nail gun being repeatedly fired when recording a video 😋 gotta love it.
Good work dave, started following not quite long ago but went back to see all the videos in the series. I must say it's one of the most detailed and honest videos i have seen. Purely experience based. I Love DIY, But her in Nigeria, you have little little or no access to stuffs like berrryman, b12. The so called injector cleaners do nothing. I have a pontiac Vibe 05 that's started to burn oil, would love to experiment berryman b12. Before having to have the mechanics work on the piston rings( your car would most likely go from bad to worse for this here in Nigeria), i sold a 1999 camry for this. I wouldn't like to sell my Pontiac vibe just yet.
Badru, here's a link to the ingredients of Berryman's. Maybe you can find something with similar composition. www.berrymanproducts.com/assets/3A-5M-0112-1112-1165.pdf
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks so much, I'll definitely look out for those ingredients. You really do so much dave. Really appreciate it.
It's just really good lacquer thinner.
You should re route the pcv line to a oil catch can, any oil blow by will go into the catch can instead of the cylinders, you’ll get less oil and gunk on the pistons and valves. Instead of burning it in the motor you can reuse the oil or discard it.
You can't reuse oil from the catch can , it's all sludgy.
for the weird engine revs after refilling, try cleaning your idle air control valve with carb cleaner.
Wouldn't hurt to clean the throttle body as well
Evap purge stuck open. Fuel fill pushes fuel vapor into intake manifold, causing rich condition and difficult starting.
Both suggestions are plausible. However, personal experience taught me that the tanks on these rust out pretty well, and when the system goes to purge, you are basically sucking atmospheric air through the evap system, resulting in essentially a vacuum leak. He has a check engine light on, wouldn't surprise me if he has codes for a large leak detected.
There is an aftermarket company that sells plastic replacement tanks for these, so you don't have this issue anymore. I also believe some folks have retrofit plastic tanks from newer models that use them.
@@SkylineFTW97 it never hurts to clean the IAC and Throttle Body but his problem is the Evap Purge Valve
Seafoam throttle body cleaner works great.
Excellent video 😊👍
Thank you very much!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You're welcome 😊
After all those chemicals, the 1ZZFE proved to be a solid engine. Attacked the deposits from all possible fronts.
On my 4.2l Vortec I6 in an ‘06 Trailblazer I run Berryman’s B-12 Chemtool as a crankcase flush at every oil change. Using 5W40 full synthetic Shell Rotella T6, the oil remains perfectly clean for 3,000 miles! I run 6,000 mile oil change intervals making two 210-mile interstate trips per week, and put a bottle of Chemtool in the fuel every third tank (21 gallons) or so. Berryman’s B-12 Chemtool is great stuff!
For sure you have to replace the valve cover gasket - you have oil in the spark plugs tightening.
If you also can leave a car for at least a week and after that start the engine.
If you go with a lot of blue smoke you deffinitly have bad valve stem seals.
I'm dealing same issue in Mazda's 2.0 FS engine
I'm watcinkg your videos from time to time and have to admit you are dedicate as hel to make those tests!
Great job!
I was thinking the same thing. Replace gasket and possibly seals are worn. Maybe inspect pcv system in case its stuck closed or not pulling from intake. If its building pressure in the valve covers it could push more oil through worn seals. Seems like a lot of oil to be coming through the bottom end. Then if that fails I would be spraying some seafoam through the intake while high idle.
I've been working for years on ALL makes & models of vehicles & I can tell you these Toyotas are OIL BURNERS ..35 YEAR ASE CERTIFIED AUTO TECHNICIAN
Yes in the early 2000s they tried stuff for fuel economy and it didn't work. Engines wonderful other than there's not enough holes in the oil ring lands.
awesome vid
The cylinder walls still look great with the cross hatching.
I had throttle plate sticking on a Taurus years ago. Since then I've used Berryman's B12 in all of my cars. Problem now: I can not find Chem B12 in either of the two Walmarts stores near me!!! There is every variation of SeaFoam but no Chem B12. I'm glad this has worked for you. I could go to AutoZone and pay 50% more. They do have B12 but I don't want to pay their price.
I believe that the Berryman helping is what is in the crankcase from getting past the piston rings when you added it. If you just added it to the oil and drove it for a bit and then changed the oil, it would be the same benefit. As I stated, add it just before changing the oil, and run it for a bit.
Interesting in that there was oil on top of the pistons. I have never seen that before on a good running engine.
The outakes 😂 me every day at almost everything bud lol long as we trying it's progress not perfection haha 😉
It's great that your daughter can drive manual, I will teach my daughter to drive manual too when she's older.
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You can still see the cross hatches on the cylinder walls so its gotta be the rings or valve stem seals !
That funky running during the first few minutes of driving is a dirty/clogged idle air control valve. It's right under the throttle body, two bolts hold it in, easy to clean with some carb cleaner and a tube brush or pipe cleaner. Also check your PCV valve as a stuck one can cause oil in the cylinders that will be burned. ..
This might be a good test for ATS 505CRO. I haven't used it but Scotty Kilmer swears by it. It was $25 for the bottle but now it looks like you have to purchase the 505CRF and 505CRO as a pair (CRF for fuel) and the price is now $65. Snake Oil? I do not know. Really enjoying you videos and have subscribed. We own a 2014 VW (2.0TSI) with only 40K miles and it is burning oil and exhaust tips are lined with soot. It was well-cared for based on the records we got with it as we bought it used. Not sure what is wrong with it but after-the-fact we read that the 2.0FSI/TSI are garbage engines.
My Dad years ago, deceased now, used to only buy used cars. If he had an oil burner, he would change the oil and filter but also add Diesel fuel to the crankcase. I don't remember the ratio, however. He would then idle it for an hour or so IIRC then drain it out and it would often come out black like tar. Seemed to work well.
Clean your throttle body, maf sensor, and replace your pcv valve. If you haven't already, change your spark plugs.
Dave, I enjoyed your videos of the experiment. As I mentioned before on your other video, I did the B12 pistons soak on the 2AZ-FE and the result was better than your result. Before the soaked, it burned 300-500 miles between the two dots. 1,000 miles after the soaked, it went down 29% between the dots. I soaked for 12 hrs with 4 cans and refilled/rotated whenever it drained out rather than do the 6 hrs interval. Also, I drained the oil first and soaked/drained the B12 at the same time. I just put in new oil when the B12 all drained out.
So you never ran the vehicle with the B12 in it?
@Fran Jaimes Correct. I soaked and let it drain straight out of the oil pan hole. I put in ~1,900 miles so far and it burned about 2/3 of a quart.
Couple of things ...
Oil expands when it is up to temperature, so you're supposed to check it when it's hot. So, between the marks when it's hot is a quart/liter. It's a moot thing though because, as you said, you've used that as a gauge throughout the experiment.
Second thing, I've got an '06 Prius that was burning about a quart every 1000 miles. I did the B12 treatment in the cylinder, but instead of the liquid cans for the fuel, I used the B12 out of the aerosol cans for cleaning carbs. Over roughly 24 hours I sprayed enough to cover the pistons with enough to give them a good 1/4" or so of liquid on top of each piston. I would recheck every few hours and top off as necessary to try to keep that level for the entire 24 hours. Once 24ish hours had elapsed, I blew out the remaining and changed the oil. It now burns roughly 1/2 a quart per 5000 miles. When I get the time, I plan on doing the treatment again to see if I can improve upon that. YMMV, but it seems to be the ticket to helping the issue. BTW, this has been full synthetic 5w30 since I've owned it.
In the first video there was oil pooled on top of the piston. The source of that oil is most likely the valve seals. You could be looking at worn valve guides and hard/worn seals.
You need a "Headlight Restore" video on this car!
throttle position sensor can make the tac jump around like that. see if it continues after berrymans is out of tank.
for reference, my cylinders are dry with carbon build-up on the crown. the engine loses oil, however that's due to the upper intake leaking. its capacity is 4.3 litres (6 cyl) but there's no way it goes through this much oil. that corolla is definitely shooting oil past the ring seal. blocked oil drain-back holes would increase compression significantly. It's also impossible for them to clog up with carbon, so the culprit would need to be varnish from the engine overheating. in my humble opinion you'd have timing issues before anything else. Your daughter complaining about it shaking suggests a fouled explosion (misfire) in the combustion chamber.
Did the shot of the framers! 😂
My 99 camry 2.2l uses a bit of oil, but I'm religious about 5k mile oil changes so carbon doesn't build up in the first place. Now, I'm thinking about going from Pennzoil Synth made from Nat Gas to the new Valvoline made to clean your engine's carbon back to factory spec.
Awesome series of videos, thank you! What brand/type of borescope camera is that you're using, and do you recommend it? Thanks!
It's a Depstech WF-25. It's okay, but I'd probably get something that can look sideways and backward too if I were looking now.
I would say it's the EVAP purge valve causing the wandering idle after fill up.
Hi Dave - after your first video i tried this out myself, i had tried seafoam in the cylinders and it did nothing. my vehicle is a 2005 prius with 230k miles, burning about 1qt every 750 miles. I used ran an engine flush product and also used berrymans in the cylinders and rotated the engine by hand. oil use is now about .2 qt every 1000 miles! cant believe it actually worked. im still getting some blow by which seems to be worn rings, however the oil control rings seemed to have freed up
That is great news. Thanks for posting!
Nice video. Got me wondering if any of those carbon chunks made their way into the exhaust and got hung up in the cats. Wanting to do this but also don't want to introduce more issues elsewhere. Not to mention, if the engines drinking oil and it's not ending up on the pavement it's most likely already being introduced into the cats (at least that's what I'm thinking) and have probably been caking up the relatively tight honeycomb like media. I guess if I decide to go ahead and try this I'll be sure to scope the cats before and after. Decisions, decisions. Again nice video.
I just added some b12 into my 1981 truck I’m hoping it helps clear the carb and the rings. It doesn’t use much oil but it could improve. I’m hopeful in Kansas.
Nice country side video. 👍
Thanks!
Maybe forgetting. The manual says that if at bottom dot to add a quart. It doesn’t say it’s a quart low. So when you add a quart at the bottom dot it puts you well back into the range and near the top dot without going over. So that makes sense.
My 2 cents - Berryman B-12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner in compression chamber: 1-drain all oil and with oil plug out put b12 in chamber & rotate compressed(up through the compression stroke or air pressururized w/ compression tester hose?) to be done with half combustion chamber size (25cc 2l engine) of b12, crank by hand with spark plug in place) collect the b12 that falls from the oil plug hole, do this to each cylinder a few times. 2-put all cylinders levelled midway and soak with b12 during night with spark plug in place. 3-next day rotate 5or6 times with 25cc b12 with spark plug in place every 5 hours. 4-Repeat step 1 at least once or every step all over again. 5-Put old oil back again run engine for 15min and then change oil and filter.
Thoughts?
From lower dip stick mark, you can add incremental amounts (i,e,. 2-4ox.) and measure level on dipstick. Then repeat until F mark is reached. Write everything down and you can now accurately correlate volume change with change in level position on dipstick.
Great idea!
i would love to see you pull the engine out and do a teardown and analysis of the motor. DIY the rebuild. i feel like the corolla deserves it, and if anyone can do it, its DIY Dave
Hmmmm. I'll have to think about that, Dan. ... Even if we get everything working like new?? 🤔
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY especially when you get it working like new... more content !! Just some food for thought. I know I would love to see you break it down. I think you would get ultimate satisfaction out of putting some new rings in there haha good show Dave! Keep up the good work
@@DankieOne101 if its fixed that would be beyond stupid.
yes, it would be nice to see the actual STUCK piston rings, especially in #4, and the clogged oil holes in the pistons. Finding the root cause of the issue.
It has been done by other TH-camrs. WatchWesWork did pistons in his wife's oil burning Toyota.
A car burning oil is probably a great vehicle for teaching someone to being mechanically responsible for a vehicle learning to check fluid and not just drive the vehicle into the ground
Thanks you! I did it ONE time on my Kia and seems like problem solved 1.6l gdi gamma.
Good info. Thanks for commenting!
I think the fuel adding is the tank valve reseating as muck can get in there. Just needs the seat cleaning on the tank intake vale.
Pull all of your sparkplugs and efi relay. Compression test all of the cylinders dry. Add a squirt of oil into each cylinder and compression test them again. If the compression improves your rings are worn out. The cross hatch on the cylinders is suppose to be there.Toyota built these engines for high gas mileage using low tension rings and low viscosity oil to reduce the internal drag of the engine. They spec"d the engines for 100,000 miles. In Japan they replace the engines at around 100,000 miles and those engines are usually sold used in other countries (called jdm engines for "Japanese Domestic Market" you can find them listed all over the place at engine resellers on-line). The fact that your car is using excessive oil proves that your car has worn out components (almost always rings or valve seals). You can add all the engine treatments that you want to but you're only prolonging the obvious... Your engine needs rings and or a valve job.
This time you should do some low gear ,high rpm driving the combo could free up the rings i did this with seafoam on an 2011 honda crv that burnt 3 quarts in 200 miles, 5 day soak and changed the pcv valve then did a 4k rpm drive. and it stopped burring oil i was so surprised that i thought it had to have been a bad pcv valve and changing it fixed the oil burning. i also tried it on a 2010 corolla s as well with good results this time i mixed the seafoam with atf .
I owned a 2001 Prizm with the 1zzfe engine with the oil burning issue. I did the piston ring change and drilled bigger oil drain holes in the piston. Also put valve stem seals in it while the head was off. In my opinion it wasn't worth the time, as I believe Toyota used the wrong sized pistons to begin with. I found a lot of piston/cylinder wall clearance, and the bore was out of round. If your motor starts burning a lot of oil I'd use a thicker 15w40, 20w50, or even a 40 weight to slow it down. If I were to do it again I would just find a 2003-up engine with the updated pistons.
I appreciate the info, J!
Dave if you haven’t done this yet I’d change the PCV valve. It’s about $15 and easy to replace. I’d also add Berryman to your gasoline
You earned a subscribe with the Matthew 5
Glad to have you, Jason!
I have a 2002 civic burning oil. I am watching with baited breath. I am currently at 1000 miles per quart