How to fix oil consumption on VW/Audi/Porsche 3.0T engine?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I perform a two stage piston soak on a 2017 Q7 with the Audi 3.0T engine. The vehicle was burning 1L of oil every 2-400km under regular driving so I performed a piston soak with Seafoam and B12 to free up the clogged piston rings.
While the Seafoam soak showed no improvement, the B-12 soak worked very well. The Q7 is no longer burning oil so this was a great success. A few important points to consider:
- Soak the pistons when they are at top dead center to ensure the whole crown of the piston is covered in liquid
- Three pairs of 2 cylinders are normally at TDC at the same time - 1-6, 2-4 and 3-5
- The process took 72hrs but can probably be shortened - that's 24hrs per pair of pistons x 3
- I used 50ml of B-12 per piston ever 12hrs. That means I used 100ml of B-12 per piston on 600ml for the whole engine during the second stage of the flush
- B-12 breaks A LOT of carbon from inside the motor. If the soak is performed at TDC, B-12 is also soaking the bottom of the valves and the injector tips
- All of the garbage that B-12 dissolved accumulates at the bottom side of the piston (remember the piston is at 45deg) so when the liquid goes through the rings, the carbon deposits just sit on top of the piston preventing it from turning - you must clean your cylinders with compressed air after the soak
WARNING!
Always turn the crank by hand multiple rotations before using the starter. This is very important. If you feel any resistance STOP immediately and make sure your cylinders are clear from any debris. If you use the starter YOU CAN CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE!!!
DISCLAIMER
This video provides general information and discussion on the topic of piston soaking an engine and reducing excessive oil consumption. If you choose to try this method on your engine you do so at your own risk. This video and the information included in it are not intended to serve as a substitute for a consultation with a professional mechanic. Under no circumstances will Eurotrash Motorsports be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether by Eurotrash Motorsports or a third party.
If I'm currently NOT having oil consumption issues, I've done 5k changes, I'm due for injectors and carbon clean (88k) miles... should I go ahead and do this you think?
BTW this solution is a solid win for the 3.0t community, so thank you.
@2buds1shroom if you're not burning oil there's no reason to do this... take good care of the motor, maybe do a flush every second or third oil change and you should be good for many miles
What is the special socket you are using to turn the engine at the crankshaft pulley? I have a 2017 Audi Q7 3.0.
I would like to know also
Hey, just wanted to share my feedback, i did the whole proces on my 2012 vw golf GTI mk6, with 240k kilometers, its bone stock, and since i bought it it was burning 1l of oil every 300-350km and if im pushing the car, sometimes will drink the 1l of oil arround 150km, so i was spending pore money on oil then petrol, was using Motul, so i did the whole piston soak for a total of 28h, had problems atarting it, but eventually it did start, now the strange thing once i started the car there was no smoke, literally not even a puff of smoke, which made me supper surprised, i am wandering why that is, and has anyone else experience that also ? The car was missfireing, after 25min of driving it somewhat cleared up, so i did an oil change with Liqui molly, installed new sparkplugs and will see now if it will have any improvment, il update my comment weekly to keep everyone updated.
I finished up my Q7 today and was surprised there was no puff of smoke. Did you see improvement?
My 2017 Audi q7 was burning a qt of oil every 150-200 miles & kept misfiring and going into limp mode! My mechanic changed the spark plugs, coil packs & the pcv valve which didn’t fix my issues! I took it to the audi dealer and they told me I needed a new engine which would cost 20k even tho my engine compression readings were fine. I sent this video to my mechanic and was hesitant to do a piston soak with the Berryman b12 but eventually agreed to try it! It’s been 2 months since he did the Berryman soak and I’ve driven over 1300 miles and my mmi oil readings have not dropped at all! Thank you for sharing this video!
@sterlingwhitfield6207 love these stories!! Glad it worked... it's crazy how many of us are handed these 20k estimates and are expected to be ok with it
2017 Audi q7 that was burning quart of oil every 500 miles. I did this exact procedure, and is been 700 miles and not a drop or oil has burned.
I did use 8 cans of B12 during the 3-day process. Thank you so much!
@MartinGarcia-gm9hy nicely done! Glad it worked... did you run the engine with 8 cans in or drain without running the B12? That's quite a lot of B12 - why did you end up using so much? What did you do different?
Got a 2017 q7 from auction with 71k miles. I was stunned to see it going through a quart of oil per tank of fuel. I don't generally use any snake oil solutions to problems, but figured this might actually be worth a try. Did 1 container of b12 down into the pistons, let it sit overnight with a couple rotations of the crank via water pump pulley, sucked out whatever was left, then fired it up, drove just enough to warm it up, and drained the oil. The oil was very thin, so clearly some b12 slipped past the rings and diluted it, so good to not run it very long. Immediately replaced with fresh 0w40 mobile 1 and new filter, using the drain plug rather than extraction. It's now several weeks later and over 1000 miles, and the oil level has only dropped 1/8 of a quart, which is fantastic. A longer soak with b12 might do more, but I plan to just do oil changes often for a while. Really seems like the crec engine oil control rings are prone to clogging with carbon after 50-60k miles. So instant subscribe because what a great solution! That said, I would be hesitant to run b12 in the oil much at all, it seems really hard on plastics and there is a lot of plastic inside these engines. Oil baffles, timing chain tensioners and who knows what else. B12 is in stock at walmart very cheap too. Thanks so much for posting this solution, eurotrash. I would happily send you a tip for saving the day on this engine!
Great results! Glad it worked
if you check the forum for people with this car/engine(crec version) you will see a lot of people that had catastrophic failure while they were driving on the highway out of the blue. you sir might have unintentionally found out why a perfect running engine(with the oil consumption) might just have a catastrophic engine failure out of the blue with that deposit of carbon there. nevertheless sir you are a legend !!!
I think that carbon is what's left after the B12 drains down...it dissolves all the garbage in the cylinder, which gets deposited on the lower side of the piston where the last B12 drains... the footage was really bad but with the camera you could clearly see the mound of dirt that was built
@@ETMotorsports where from you sourcing the b12 ? i mean for a reasonable price it Canada ON
@@kdudutse few stores online, I got my first order from Amazon, it's also available on ebay
Very interesting thought ... 🤔
I just did a b12 piston soak 1 week ago before watching this video and my crank actually got stuck just like this and my tool was a little worn and stripped. So I just used the starter and it crushed/ blew out the carbon and even after that I tried and it got stuck again. So I soaked for another 6 hours and than cranked and started engine and car is running just fine engine is smooth and quieter than Ever. Ive only gone 150 miles so far but so far the oil is still fulll on dipstick so fingers crossed.
Did this process a few months ago on my 2013 A6 3.0t based on your previous videos and by sheer luck I happened to be dog sitting for my brother, which gave me access to their vehicles and allowed me to soak the pistons over the coarse of three days. I used three bottles of B12 and filled then rotated the crank three times. While not as precises as your method here, I do believe that I was able to achieve a similar effect as the pistons were never in the same positions after each rotation. Before this process I was burning 1qt of oil every 800 miles and I'm happy to say that i'm currently at 1800 miles and my MMI oil reading, plus my dip stick, show zero burned oil. Can't thank you and everyone else enough for documenting this process and sharing it with us. Thanks!!
@@mechsuit80 great results!! Glad it worked
What tool did you use to get at the crank pulley? I can’t seem to get close to it on my B8 S4 cause of the lack of space between the fan and the pulley
There's a few other options to try now. Valvoline makes a Restore and Protect oil that is supposed to help take the carbon off of pistons and stop oil burning. That's supposedly done over 4 oil changes. Then there's the extreme option with is Valvoline Premium Blue which was developed with Cummins for fixing oil burning problems in their engines. That will supposedly clean a 15 liter engine in 1 oil change, so if one was to use that, I'd be changing oil filters every 200-300 km. That may be worth a try in conjunction with a piston soak.
Anyways, good to see that these are still working. And that older footage was really cool.
only draw back with restore and protect is that it is not audi/VW approved.
Been wanting to try the Valvoline Restore and Protect but not sure if it would be safe to use in an Audi. They dont make it for Euro cars yet.
@@richardrussell1025 I just did the Piston soak on my 2018 Q7 3.0 t. I ended up putting the 5w30 restore and project in it. It's relatively inexpensive to change the oil. So I'm going to run it for a thousand miles and then check the oil filter. Hopefully over the next thousand miles I don't burn very much oil. Previous to the oil soak I was burning about a quart every 800 miles. If it doesn't drastically improve, then I will run the Piston soap again. It will be much easier now that I know the process.
@@drm916 I would be very curious on what you find. I also have an 2013 audi a4 burning a quart every couple of gas tank fills. I was going to do the piston soak in October when I can do the down time. I just got the restore and protect oil in from Amazon today.
I just finished driving ~500km after doing this - oil consumption went down from 1 quart every 600kms to not even moving after ~500km!
@@vSynZero 3.0t?
@@ETMotorsports Yes - the 3.0t crec. The engine has more power now - compression was tested at 150psi before so it might have gone up after
I did this on my 2018 Q7 3.0T shortly after watching your Q5 video. I also realized that I was not going to be able to cover the entire piston, and it would be tricky to make the relatively small amount of liquid last for all 6 cylinders without overfilling the crankcase. I was on a time crunch so I only did two pours. First was 6 hours, and second was 12 hours. I'm still driving it after that first oil change waiting for that oil reminder to come on. So far so good after 1500 miles. I was previously burning a quart of oil ever 2k miles. Time will tell.
How is it?
@@aibarberguy3141 I’ve surpassed 2500 miles since I did it. No reminder to add oil yet. Checked the dipstick(I installed one where the plug was). All good. Id say it has fixed it.
Update. Im now changing the oil after a trip to the mountains. 6k miles since the soak and my last oil change. According to the physical dipstick, im right in the middle of where I need to be. It’s probably burned half a quart total since I made sure to fill it to the high mark at the last oil change. This freaking worked!
When VAG group recommends such idiotic oil change intervals. I'm in Australia so kilometers as well and it's recommended to do oil changes every 15000ks on turbo engine they are on drugs.
31:50 the owner needs to stop driving like a grandma. We had a work vehicle that never went past 35mph. The engine died at 105k miles from carbon buildup.
Pro tip! If it burns that much oil. You never have to change it.😉
Amazing video, i am going to try with a botle of seafoam and 2 of MANNOL 9770 Carburetor Cleaner 600ml, is the only thinks with similar compositions that i cant find in spain. I will and the update to help other people that cant find B12. Do you think that 3 bottles are excesive? or i would only use 2 and part of the last? thanks
I have a A4 2.0 tfsi 2010 engine
@aketza6627 I did a 2.0t in my q5 - you can see the other episode...I think I used about 100ml per cylinder and topped up as required... everybody's engine seems to react differently so you may be ok wth the amounts you have... keep us posted on your success with Seafoam and mannol
Hello I just did b12 at 2008 Camry after that I did new engine oil valvolin restore and protect I'm waiting result
Good luck!
mechanic in a can experiments this trend is spreading thanks for sharing i have played around with ideas when i was a kid one that was catastrophic was pouring water down into a running engine i love the effort you put into it scientific
Im not handy unfortunately, anyone in the NYC area willing to do the work?, name your price,. Same car as shown in the video.
Can someone send me 2 cans of B12 ? Im living in France.
Of course, ill pay for everything
Use ATF+4 mezclado con acetona en partes iguales.
I always treat the piston at bottom dead center...this way you can cover it up completely.
And yes, you always want to blow up the cylinder with compressed air.
I use a can of B12 per cylinder.pull the supercharger and walnut blast the valves, also replace the PCV valve.
Going to try this on a 2017 Q7 I picked up for my wife. It burns somewhere around a quart per 700-1200 miles depending on city vs highway. So far, it seems to burn a lot more with strictly in town driving. I will update with the results! Thanks Eurotrash. Car is at 118k miles.
Keep us updated I think I’ll do this on my 2017 also this summer or fall. Ours uses 1-2 quarts between 5k mile changes so it’s not horrible, 100% uses more in town driving and nearly zero on highway… weird. 85k here
Will do. I completed the work last week. It was not bad at all. The only thing to be aware of is there is a tool that would be very useful for turning the crank. The harmonic balancer is held on by 6 or 8 triple square bolts and there is not a big center bolt like I’m used to on BMWs. I was able to get around this by very carefully using my triple square on one of the balancer bolts, but I did feel one tighten one time so I don’t recommend that method. I also used the bolt on the alternator but you can’t use only that one because the belt slips.
I took some photos of the pistons with my endoscopic camera before and after as well and you can tell a difference. After was post 30m drive right before I changed the plugs and drained the oil.
I’ll let you all know how it goes. I’m currently running the Rotella T like he recommended because I already had some on hand by chance. I’ll change in about 1000k miles.
keep us posted on the final results
Unfortunately I now show the first tick mark down on my oil level after 950mi. This is using the Rotella. I’m going to change the oil back to factory specs and see if I can go 5k OCI without topping up. If I don’t make it, I’ll probably do the B12 treatment again since I have another four cans.
Let me begin by saying Thank you for posting this video. My Q7 was burning a quart in about 4-500 miles when i got it a year ago. after doing so much research and doing an engine flush i got a bout 1200 miles before sign came up to put a quart. After watching this video and doing the Piston soak i have driven about 1300 miles and the MMI shows i have used about 1/4th quart of oil. So still burning but nowhere near what it was..!!
@kumarpatel9061 great results!!! You can always repeat the process in a couple of oil changes if it's not resolved although I'm guessing you'll be fine
Thank you, I have tried on my Q7 2017. It works!
@@eddatusa nice! What were the numbers?
@@ETMotorsports I would like to get this done but no one in new jersey seems to give me comfort in having them do it i will drive my car to canada if you would be willing to do this for me do you have a email or contact info
@@ETMotorsports I have followed your procedure. I did 2 pistons every 24 hrs. Every 12 hrs rotating and added B12 50 ml. My Audi was consuming 1/4 oil about 500 miles. I have ran 1000 miles. It hasn’t dropped at all. Thanks again. Before it I did change PCV valve. It never resolved the issue.
Hi - so I'm going through this right now, I soaked one set of pistons and blew off a bunch of the gunk but I'm still unable to crank it by hand. I tried turning it counter clockwise a bit and it did rotate, so I tried blowing again but with little effect.
Any suggestions? Do you think I should hit the starter?
@vSynZero no absolutely no... don't hit the starter... while it may be ok and it just plows through the garbage, there's a chance that it does irreparable damage... if you can turn it back then you're hitting the same garbage I was... can you confirm that's when the soaked pistons are at TDC? Can you see inside the cylinders?
@@ETMotorsports Yeah - the soaked pistons were at TDC, i looked inside with a scope but I don't have a side view - it looks like ive blown out most of the gunk (i was at it for a while and it actually looks really clean to the point where i can see the letters on the pistons!). I took it counterclockwise and there was some resistance at BDC - blew it out some more, but still gets stuck at the same spot at TDC going counterclockwise. Any thoughts - maybe I should let the b12 evaporate and try using the air blaster again tomorrow?
@vSynZero hmm first of all try not to spin the engine backward too much because you're going against the chain tensioners and there's risk of timing issues... that said if you're careful, you should be ok... now for getting stuck - while the footage in the video is horrible, and I apologize for that but you can see what's happening... all of the gunk that gets dissolved piles up at the low side of the piston - if you can picture the piston at 45 deg, all the liquid and gunk eventually goes through the lower side... so that builds up and stops the piston from pushing through...
I've been thinking about this issue as well... if you've already blown up a bunch of garbage, I think the next thing you can try is to pour more B12 in those two cylinders... you don't need to cover the pistons since you're not trying to soak the rings, but I think the liquid will help soften up any buildup that's left at the lower side and perhaps help you push through...
So why don't you try this - pour say 30-40ml in each of the two pistons, give it a few minutes to soften up but not drain through and start working the crank manually going back and forth at that spot... if you feel it starting to give, you can probably apply a bit more torque to the crank and get through the pile...
This is very annoying but it makes sense that it happens - all the dissolved crap has to go somewhere... I'd be curious to record a time lapse of an actual soak to see how this forms up
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the advice! I'll give that a try and maybe try to blow a little more out and see, it's actually cranking a little bit smoother now vs before, but well noted on not cranking it backwards too much
@@ETMotorsports Hi - so i went to work at it again today - i tried blowing at it for a little while longer after more of the b12 had evaporated, maybe a very small amount came out. i suspect that it's a little more flakey when it's dried up vs when it's still wet. then i tried wiggling it back and forth a bit where it was previously stuck. then backed it out a bit and added a bit of solution (a little less than you suggested as the pistons looked very clean) as leaving it where it was stuck might have caused the bit of carbon that was causing the blockage to be jammed in there, worked at it with no success. I blew at it again, backing it out progressively, then tried again and there was resistence but it went through. Will give an update once the rest is complete!
2016 Q5 here... Did the B12 soak 3 weeks ago. Now after 500kms (300miles) the level hasn't moved. Before that, it was almost a 1/4 of oil in less than 1000kms.
great results!
Nooooooooo, I've been soooo looking forward for the spark plug drop so I can read the comments afterward , don't rob me of that, drop the plugs, drop the plugs, what did I do to you to deserve this ? 🤣🤣🤣. I really hope you'll get tens of thousands of views bc honestly you should. 👍👍
hahahah...don't you worry - the plugs dropping is a staple Eurotrash procedure and this engine was not spared :) I am thinking of doing a 1000 drop test to see how much my gap changes Myth Busters style...
Great work. I have done the full carbon clean on a 2013 B8.5 S4 with the 3.0T supercharged engine. Mine had heavy carbon buildup around the valves, but not so bad in the cylinders. That Q7 was bad! I do still burn some oil, so this is now on my list of things to do at some point. Cheers.
Yeah the Q7 was carbon cleaned before we did the treatment as well
Do you think this can damage headgasket? if you soak it at TDC?
@StefaTGM no...b12 doesn't react with metals and you headgasket will have a metal ring right around the cylinder
Don’t buy it , case closed .
It's great to hear that the B12 piston soak process is effective for the Audi V6 too. It is interesting that treating the pistons at TDC also soaks the valves.
I recently did the B12 soak on a Tiguan 2.0 Instead of waiting 12 hours between B12 doses I just waited until the solution had leaked past the pistons, rotated the crank, and added more B12. After a few doses, I noticed one piston held the solution so I only gave it a 1/2 dose. Eventually, 2 cylinders held the solution.
Hopefully, my A6 will not begin consuming oil. But if it does it's great to have such a cheap & simple cure.
Thanks, 👍👍
Great results
I've been driving Audi for some time now, and I used to have problems with oil consumption. meet a good mechanic years ago that believe the reason for the oil consumption is related to carbon build-up around the piston and rings. He suggested always using premium gas and oil changes every 5k using Motul or Liqui Moly oil. have been doing this, and I can say I have 0 issues with oil consumption.
Which crank turning tool did you use? I cant seem to find one that is listed for the 4m q7. I see some that are a 4 point that fit between the bolts and one that covers all 8 bolts. Neither are listed for the 4m 3.0T Supercharged.
Never mind. I got it figured out
I'm pouring b12 in the piston at TDC and the solvent is just going some where. Not on the top of the piston. It's definitely going into the cylinder. Car was running with no misfires and strong just going through qt every 2 weeks. I'm going to try it not TDC but are there any other recommendations
@aibarberguy3141 it's draining past your rings... is it only doing it on one cylinder? That one might need more attention and perhaps a repeat of the soak... did you measure the compression before you started? How's the plug looking on this one? Don't worry about the liquid disappearing - it's going where it needs to... rotate the crank to move the piston up and down and continue with the process
The cylinders that are empty are the ones that are burning the most oil
@daveerrington5166 that's what I thought originally but honestly it seems to be all over the place... on my a4 cyl 3 was absolutely soaked in oil but wasn't the one empty first...after the first soak, the draining changes too...
Rotella T6 one of the best oil. The 5w40 for diesel engine is excellent. You can use it for that engine, no problem.
yeah I like running the T6 as well
@@kamalaquino6300 why used diesel engine oil after piston soak,what is the benefit for this ?
Rotella is all i use in all of cars. Truly the best oil i have ever used.
I was sooo scared to do this on my wife’s A6 3.0t. Need to convince her to park the car for a couple of days to get this done. 😆
Haha it's not hard but the angle of the pistons creates a few issues... how bad is the consumption? Just do it at the next oil change all you don't waste your oil and filter
@@ETMotorsports 1qt 1500 - 2k miles not km. 😆
@@ETMotorsports I use fcpeuro every oil change has been free after the first one. Three years now. Lifetime. Love fcp euro.
@sebastianlorenzo4935 oh man that's nothing :) you lucky man
Hey, had an idea to share with you on soaking pistons in the V config for the future. I was think how to get the whole piston soaked, and I thought, well, why not use an old compression gauge hose, or leak down hose. Anyway, just thought I would share that thought. Catch ya later, and thanks again for the vids, Subbed.
@MichaelCarreras good idea... I thought of that and actually tried it too but you can't soak all at the pistons at the same time and when you put pressure in, the piston actually moves down... the best thing so far is to soak at TDC two at a time... that way you clean the piston and the top of the chamber
@@ETMotorsports Right, but I wasn't thinking of applying any pressure, just using a hose to raise the available height. So if we took a couple of old compression gauge hoses and cut the tops off, kind of thing. That would allow us to fill the cylinder up until the first open valve, and if we actually set the cylinders so that the valves were in the compression stroke(closed position) we could theoretically easily cover the entire top of the piston with less b-12. Any hoot, it was just a thought. Love what you are doing !! Thanks for the reply!!
@@MichaelCarreras same concept as riser tubes in irrigation systems. the old hose just makes the cylinder 'taller' and the liquid can sit about the factory hole opening
@@Pwnulolumad Yea! What he said!! :) Thanks!
Спасибо огромное за ваше видео! Уже 2 недели испытываю проблему с Audi Q7 4m 2017 из США. Пробег 140 000 км, цилиндры чистые. После очередной замены масла, расход масла составил 1 литр на 400 км. Обязательно воспользуюсь вашей рекомендацией и сделаю раскоксовку двигателя. Очень надеюсь, что поможет. Привет вам из России!!!
@@lermos good luck!!
So I have a 2010 Audi S4 that was burning quart of oil every 500 miles. I did this exact procedure, and so far it's been 500 miles and not a drop or oil has burned. I did have lower compression in cylinder 2 and I noticed that was the only one that had oil in top of the piston. I feel like that's where the oil was going. Car runs GREAT. I think this is the secret to Audi burning issues.
Nice results!
Did you check the compression after the treatment? Did it improve?
@@ETMotorsports I havent yet, but I will soon and will update you right here 👍🏻
@@jd-ri6qyupdate bro?
Go
Elecrtic!
When you blew the carbon out of that cylinder I hope you made sure the valves were closed. I noticed the one you could see was open
good point - the two clips were from different cylinders and different times so yes the valves were closed but that's definitely something to pay attention to....
So I did a berrymans soak this spring, used 4 cans on the drivers side bank (one plug was oily on that side and I ran out of fluid before I could get to the pass side). consumption went from 550miles/qt to about 1300/qt. fast forward 5000 miles and I did the full engine flush before my oil change. This time I drained the oil first and put it aside, left the drain plug out with a second empty drain pan and did 8 cans using a boroscope to be sure I had the pistons fully submerged at all times over a 10 hour period with a bit of hand cranking mixed in, then I put the old oil back in and ran the car for a few minutes, drained and put in new oil and filter. with the v engine it takes a lot of fluid to fully cover the piston. I recommend using more fluid, a boroscope so you can see what your doing, and don't run oil diluted with berrymans if you don't have to...One other observation : it takes 1 quart to go from the bottom of the crosshatch on the dipstick to the top of the crosshatch, but if you accidentally overfill it it does not go up past the top of the crosshatch in a linear fashion, it goes up much less. I think this is because of the shape of the oil pan...I mention this because if you overfill you get a false sense that the car is burning less oil than it does because it drops slower above the top of the crosshatch (my car is a 2012 Q7 w 85k miles) with a manual dipstick. This piston soak is a real solution for these stuck, low friction oil rings...it's not just audi btw. my buddy has a 2020 kia tellurike with 60k burning a lot of oil and still under warranty, the dealers are doing piston soaks now on warranty jobs...
Hi, is there any way to reach you by email?
@@yetao1476 yup contact info is on the channel description or you can find me on Facebook and WhatsApp from there
Awesome content !!!
B-12 is 70% Xylene.
Which can be bought at any hardware store.
I checked the MSDS sheet.
Very interesting point talking about the carbon on the pistons and interference not allowing the engine to rotate fully by hand.
I’ve done the b12 soak close to a dozen times on both the 2.0T and 3.0T CREC. Has worked great. However on the first 2.0T vehicle I did this soak on everything went smoothly. Rotating the engine by hand during the soak. Drove great for 500 miles with no consumption. After sitting for a couple weeks I go to start it and it immediately is running rough flashing CEL and dies after 30 seconds of running. At that point I can only assume the engine has seized up. Long story short after poking around and not wanting to do more damage I start pulling things apart. Cant find any issues. Pull the head off only to find carbon buildup on top of the piston which was my interference hitting the bottom of the head, and the reason the engine stopped running. The fact that the car ran perfectly for 500 miles makes me wonder if this was just a coincidence and maybe the carbon actually broke off from the backside of intake valve and got sucked in because I would think any carbon that accumulated during the soak surely would have burnt off immediately upon startup and I never had any resistance rotating by hand when doing the soak.
yeah that's a bit suspect...you wouldn't have carbon from the treatment after 500miles...so you had actual physical damage because the piston hit the valves? that sucks :(
@@ETMotorsports there was no physical damage. Once the head was off you could see carbon on top of the piston which had been compressed and preventing the engine from fully rotating just like what you experienced by hand. I would have never expected such a small amount of buildup to be able to stop the engine in its tracks like that. We’re talking less than an eight inch of carbon on just a small portion of the piston top. In hindsight I could have just pulled the spark plug, maybe put in a little solvent to soften it up, then blow it out with air
Even if you use an eve higher octane fuel can help this aswell. Theirs more alcohol and ethenal in higher rated fuel. These can also disolve carbon naturally. Since it wont all ignite when it enters the combustion chamber
@@adameusaries unfortunately nothing else seems to work... you can't fix it with oil or fuel additives - the rings get completely caked up
@@ETMotorsports yknow what I appreciate the response. I'm going to make a TH-cam video explaining what I mean. But what you figured out. Is gold
Hey have you seen that valvaline came out with a restore and protec engine oil. They claim it breaks down the carbon on the rings after four oil changes.
hmmm worth a try I guess - but that's anywhere between 20 and 40k+ kms if you're doing 5k+ oil changes...not sure anybody wants to wait that long to find out if it's effective
@@ETMotorsports I agree. Would be good for the low millage cars for preventive maintenance.
Thx. I’ll try on my Vibe GT w/ the famous Toyota 2.4L burner
Thanks for the content. Any change that the B-12 will harm or degrade the head-gasket material? When the engine wouldn't turn, That large gunk chunk of carbon. Do you think that probably came off the manifold side of a valve stem and made the valve stick open? I ask because I just bought a 100,000 mile Q7 3.0 TFSI today and I suspect that I will be duplicating your process soon.
Жив и здрав да си братле!
what socket or tool did you use to turn the crank over with
Look up VW 1412
@ETMotorsports I was able to use a 3/8 and put it in one of the triple square bolts and it turned it over just fine
Good afternoon friend. First of all, thanks for the tips, it helps me a lot. I'm going to do this procedure with B-12 on an Audi A3 Sportback 8P 2.0 tfsi 2007. The car has 170,000km on it. The correct option is 50ml per piston in pms, that is, 100ml for pistons 1 and 4 and wait 12 hours to turn the crankshaft. Then add another 100ml and wait another 12 hours. After 24 hours, repeat this process on cylinders 2 and 3. After 48 hours, I will have used 400ml of B-12. I bought 2 bottles of B-12. Can I repeat this process until I reach 888ml from 2 bottles of B-12? Do I need to clean with compressed air at the end of each 12-hour immersion or can I turn the crankshaft to continue the procedure without cleaning? Is cleaning with compressed air only done after the entire procedure and before starting the car normally? My last question is regarding engine oil. After finishing the procedure, can I change the oil before starting the car or do I start it first with the old contaminated oil to change it at the right temperature? Thank you very much for your attention and help! Success to the channel!
Hey for the 4cyl 2.0T you should watch the other 3 videos - I've answered all the questions there... on the 4 cyl you can soak all 4 pistons at the same time, 100ml per piston every 12 hrs... use both cans...I run the engine with the B12 inside for about 30 min to do a complete clean up but if you're worried you can change the oil before that
@@ETMotorsports I did watch the videos, I always follow your work. I really asked to confirm and so that I don't do anything wrong. I'm going to choose to do all 4 cylinders at once and start the car before changing the oil to complete the cleaning. Thanks again friend.
pretty much all my Questions too...👍 I cant wait to do mine.🙏Good Luck to you also. this guy is Great!!! Very Knowledgeable
@@timpresutto184 Hello, friend, good morning. I hope these tips help you too. In the end, everything will be fine.
To be honest this means you can also do this by adding it directly to the motor oil. Dont drive the car around but you can add it in the oil direclty allow it to gain heat and circulate through the motor. The additive will get past the piston rings and allow it to clean piston rings. Remember these additives are lighter then oil so they automatically flow better. Just remember to use a low weight oil like 0w 40
With regards to having the pistons at TDC, will the same pair be on the same cycle (ie: compression or exhaust)? Should you be concerned about the valves being open on the exhaust stroke and the Berryman's fluid leaking out the exhaust valve?
Hi is there a way to get B12 in europe
I really need this ASAP
@valmirzeqiraj4703 some people have been able to order from ebay etc but it depends on where you are... there are some alternatives you can try like LiquiMoly fuel injector cleaner etc but I haven't seen confirmed cases yet
@@ETMotorsports I'll do it with LM if the 2nd order of Berryman is blocked from ebay in EU...
If you smell the opened container it smells just like paint thinner. Not as strong as lacquer thinner! I bet paint thinner will do the same result.
Thabks for the info. Im burning a quart every 1000km or so. Where did you get the b12 in canada? Im in Toronto
What bit on your socket wrench are you using to turn the crank pulley? Thanks for this great video!
Ugh that's an annoying one - the v6 needs a special tool... Google T40058 crankshaft pulley tool
@@ETMotorsports Is there any reason not to turn there motor using the supercharger pulley up top?
yeah you can only turn the motor from the crank pulley...anything else will put too much strain on the accessory pulleys and they're not designed to do that
Hey i been following up with your videos on this topic. I have a 2012 Audi a3 (8p) with a 2.0tfsi engine. My issue is that along with oil consumption i am getting, one of the cylinders are wetting the spark plug with oil and causing misfire. It could be the piston rings as i had a shop do the timing chain, rear main seal and new cylinder head as they thought it was the valve stem seals. They basically half-assed rebuilt my engine and I lost lots of money. The car has been sitting for 2 years now since it can't pass emissions, I want to give this method a try before trying to buy another engine. What do you recommend? Do you think this could help?
@SupremoFilms @SupremoFilms hey 100%... if you watch the first video on my A4 I had the exact same issue - cylinder 3 spark plug was soaked with oil and would misfire within 5 min of running... the car wasn't driveable - the engine would shut off that cylinder because of the misfires...I did the valve seals as well and that was a huge waste of time... the piston soak completely transformed the vehicle
@@ETMotorsports I appreciate your response, and yes I have watched all your videos on this topic. I'm going to follow your steps and will keep you and the community updated as soon as I can.
I couldn't thank you enough for making this video! I did the piston soak on my 2018 Q7 this weekend and it seemed to go just as you described (now I just need to drive and see it fixed the consumption). Engine does seem to be running better. The process was pretty hard on this car because the spark plug holes are very deep. I would advise to put 2 oz (~50ml) of B12 in ALL cylinder and turn the crank until water starts to come out 2 of the spark plug holes (indicating they are at TDC). Add 2 more oz of B12 into the 4 cylinders that arent at TCD. Then let everything soak for 6-8 hours. This way you can have all cylinders soaking at once. Then turn crank and repeat this process but put a different 2 cylinders at TDC and let soak for 6-8 hours, and then repeat for last 2 cylinders at TDC.... Just my thoughts
Awesome - looking forward to your results... the Q7 from the video is now close to 3k without loss of oil so drastic change from the start...
I like your idea about watching the liquid come out to know your at TDC...If you don't have extensions or a scope to see when the pistons come up that's just as good...I think if you're soaking all at the same time though, you may end up using too much liquid? How many cans did you go through? Also did you have any issues with build up of carbon like I did? A few viewers have noted the same thing - as the liquid drains through the pistons, garbage builds up at the lowest point on the piston and prevents you from turning the crank
@@ETMotorsports I ended up adding 3 cans (45oz) of B12 by the time I was finished. So before I started the car I loosened the oil plug and drained 32oz of oil to be safe. The car smoked for the entire 20 minutes that I ran it with the B12 in it before changing the oil. I had very minor issues of carbon build up and the crank was hard to turn and I had to blow it out like you did. It was a little scary, but I don't think I had it as bad as you did. My Q7 has 74k miles and was consuming about 1 liter every 3k miles after a PCV change. So I figured I would do this procedure before the issue got really bad. Shame on Audi for kicking this issue down the road they way they do and telling customers that 1 Liter burning per 1000 miles is to spec.
The deep plugs is the reason the seals do this
Valvoline restore and protect works REALLY well on VAG engines use 5w 20, after my 3rd change, i bore scoped a beautiful 180,000 mile 2.5 it almost looks new! This is not a ad, it works!!
@@lickwidgoat3480 did you have oil consumption? What was the before and after?
My 2017 Q7 3.0 supercharged Crec calls for 5w/40 oil. They dont make it in that weight. But I have thought about trying the 5w/30
@@drm916 its fine, i use 5 20 and 5 30 depending on the season
Be warned everything downstream will get dirty like the cat and o2 sensors!!! Run a high quality fuel with cat cleaner
I was waiting for this one Thank you!
I've done the soak on a 2L Q5. I drain the oil beforehand and keep it for later. I refill cylinders each time before hand cranking, using a piece of vacuum tubing as a dipstick to check the levels. Each time I refill I also drain the oil sump to keep the solvent away from the seals. When last soak is done I put a small amount of Seafoam into each cylinder, remove the fuel pump fuse, and crank with starter to lubricate & clear cylinders. Then replace fuse and spark plugs, add old oil & do an engine flush, then new oil & filter. Running the solvent in the engine oil is probably risky & an engine flush is likely more gentle & can be done at every oil change for a while to gradually clean the rest of the engine.
Hola de nuevo amigo! Otro Audi a5 1.8 TFSI arreglado gracias a este proceso!! Este consumía 1l en torno a los 800km - 1000km. Actualmente lleva 750km recorridos sin consumo aparente. Quiero aclarar unos detalles por si son útiles para los demás. No pude usar B12, y en su lugar usé ATF+4 mezclado con acetona pura en partes iguales. El resultado fue increible, disolvió el carbón muy fácilmente. En este caso, el arranque fue MUY DIFICIL, pero finalmente todo resulto ser un exito.
Hey - great results! ATF+4 mixed with equal parts pure acetone - interesting combination...worth a try!
@@ETMotorsports Si, quizá en un motor con muchisimo carbón sea mejor usar el B12, pero en este caso funcionó a la perfección el ATF+4 con acetona.
@SrZombros I'm curious, do you know why the starting was so difficult? The spark plugs were out during the soaking, so it's not like they were coated with B-12. The hard starting (which we've seen in a few of the prior @ETMotorsports vids on this topic) is the part that has me the most concerned. Thanks in advance.
@@tedjohnson64 Cuesta arrancar debido a que el motor pierde toda la compresión al no haber ninguna película de aceite en las camisas de los pistones. También, la presencia del solvente en la cámara de combustión hace que el motor se vuelva loco. En cuanto el solvente empiece a quemarse y llegue el aceite a los segmentos para recuperar la compresión, tu motor funcionará con normalidad. PD: añadiendo una cucharada de aceite antes de arrancar el motor, previene daños en el primer arranque y hace que sea más fácil.
@@SrZomBrosgracias por su consejo de hecharle cucharita de aceite antes qué actualizar
Question when you pour the B-12 in the cylinder are you covering the cylinder?
b12 strikes again!
Hey eurotrash motorsports I've never seen any follow-up video of the t1N sprinter with the hybrid turbo you were putting together. Did you ever get that done and mapped?
This is so amazing, I need to get my hands on an oil burner to try this myself 😊😊
Thanks for the video. My wife has a 2017 Hyundia Tuscon with the 2.0 na engine, that has this same oil burning issue. Car had just about 100,000 km and used about 1.2 - 1.3 liters/1500 km. Dealer was absolutely no help. Did the piston soak and made a big difference, didn't fix it completely but much better now. After about 4500 km used about .5 liter of oil. After second oil change after piston soak we went on a trip and put on about 1500 km and it still showing full, was mostly hwy driving so maybe that is why not sure.
@@vanlandbc awesome! Glad to see it's working on other brands too
I keep gettin misfire on cylinder 3. Can i just soak that cylinder or i need to do all of em? Did pcv about 1k miles back. Thought it was injector. But still oil consumption and misfire in cylinder 3. Havent checked compression
@josemarquez6883 you could try to do just 1 but chances are they're all burning oil...3 is the worst probably or you have a different issue there
0:48 Nobody else going to comment on the island????
Where did you buy your Crank Tool? I have been seeing kits for $145-$400+. I just want the tool.
Does this crank tool work for all Audi engines you have worked on?
@LobbanVlogs Amazon has it - part of timing kits but I've seen it on its own too... there are a few different configurations for the crank in the Audis - this is for the ones that use multiple bolts to hold the pulley - a lot of the V engines are like that
which B12 product exactly? Berrymens make a few different versions of the B12
@harihoudini b12 chemtool...liquid not spray
2017 q7 here. 65k miles. Burning 1L/3,500 miles. Not that bad. But..
Does it hurt to do the soak before it gets actually bad? Any reason to wait until it’s in the range of sub 1k/L ?
hmm...my Touareg was burning 1L/2000km and I did a soak with Seafoam, which actually pushed me past 1L/6000km...if you're not consuming that much, there's a good chance the issue has not gotten bad enough to require B-12. If you're comfortable with the motor, I would do a soak with Seafoam or something similar at your next oil change just to see if there is any improvement and if there is you can keep doing it every say 5 oil changes just to keep things moving freely and perhaps avoid the big issues altogether
Hi, searching for Berrymen B12 and do see 0116 and 117. Which one schould I buy? Thanks in advance.
116 is liquid, 117 is aerosol... you need 116... looks like 121 is the same thing but bigger quantity
Before getting anything, always research the SDS and learn a little about the chemical’s effects. I think all that smoke is evidence that treatment was too harsh. For a vehicle as expensive and finicky as that, you really shouldn’t use anything with acetone. Berryman’s is cheap and effective, but hard on plastics and nylon. DIY Dave used Yamalube which worked better and is mostly stoddard solvent and xylene; it’s much less risky. The Seafoam is as much safer as it is less effective. Really, you should use Berryman’s oil flush or BG’s EPR to clean out the rings and use then a high mileage full synthetic that will come esters in it to swell the seals; and then change it regularly
Good point for sure...the smoke is the B12 and crap burning up...Seafoam smokes in the exact same way if introduced in the combustion chamber, which it's designed to do...I've tried multiple oil flushes but they don't work - this stuff needs to soak in over hours...I`m sure there are better solutions out there to play with as it looks like Dave has found some...
Hi friend
Good video.
After this process
Will be ok to add seafoam or b12 on gas tank every oil change?
@giuseppecutolo5756 you can definitely add it to the gas but that's just for the gas system - won't do anything for your piston rings
Wondering if I should do this on my Q7 when so far oil consumption is about 1l per 9000km
@alancatraniuc2465 that's not oil consumption mate 🤣 that's your engine just smelling the oil vapors as they go by...lol don't touch your engine - just drive it like you stole it
What if we don’t rotate the crank and keep adding b12 every 6 hours will it be fine ?
I am in the middle of the process and added b12 without rotating the crank do i need to worry about something here?
Thanks
@@sohailshaikh483 nothing to worry about - rotating the crank is meant to help the liquid penetrate the rings so it may not be as effective
Excellent video, thanks for making it! You got my imagination going. A few ideas (maybe not good):
1) I realize TDC is good for piston coverage on this 90-degree engine, but I wonder if it is actually letting some of the treatment flow out of the exhaust valves? I wonder if this is why there was so much smoke. Maybe there is an ideal cylinder location/stroke? Perhaps just before BDC on the power stroke? All valves closed and hopefully the "tallest" edge of the piston is below all valves? Perhaps we could calculate the precise amount of fluid to use in this situation. Just trying to think of ways to further formalize your process for this engine. I am not an expert, so maybe my ideas are dumb. You got good results already!
2) I wonder if you have inadvertently discovered a good DIY process for cleaning the (always dirty) intake valves? I wonder if some variation of your process could be used to target the intake valves. Perhaps intentionally orient the cylinder somewhere after TDC on the intake stroke? Or maybe people are already doing this and I'm just oblivious.
hey - both great ideas...the smoke on startup is normal - I saw it on all 3 of my other cars...the B12 gets everywhere so until it burns out it smokes like crazy...
There's definitely a more scientific way of doing this but it would require an engine on the stand here to play with and experiment and the 3.0T isn't very common so I haven't been able to find one. Yeah carbon buildup on the valves is a big issue - I like your idea about doing this on the intake stroke - pretty much need to find the earliest both intake valves are open with the piston at highest position and then add the liquid. That way it will coat the piston and valves at the same time...going down to BDC though wouldn't work because you'd have to fill the entire cylinder with solution - you want the least amount of volume possible with the valves open...This can be applied to the 2.0T as well - same issues with valve carbonization...
@@ETMotorsports I was thinking about BDC specifically for piston ring treatment only, to keep the valves completely out of the picture ... ensure we don't lose any B12 through the valves. But maybe this isn't an issue. Do you suspect that you lost B12 through the exhaust valves when you switched over to using TDC only? Thanks again for making this video!
I think b12 going out the exhaust valve might be a good thing. I've seen some recent cases of people who neglect the oil consumption issues on the CREC motors and they end up with a burned valve. The b12 may cleanup the valve seat and promote a better valve seal.
@@pearl04tl The issue I'm worried about is those cases where the treatment drained out of the cylinder. If it drains out then we aren't treating the rings as good as we could for 24 hours. When that happened in the video my mind went to the valves, which is why I started thinking about how to remove the valves from the picture entirely (when targeting the rings). Just a thought.
you want the liquid to drain out through the rings - if it's not draining out, you're not treating them...as it's draining down, the liquid is penetrating through the rings and going everywhere (hopefully) to soften up the carbon and free them up...
I've seen ur other vids👍. I Need to do my 09 a4.85,000 mi .I'm scared. Really wish I could talk to you for even 1min? couple questions
My contact info is on the channel description or the Facebook page
I added early on a water methanol kit and catchcan on my audi to avoid this.
No issue with warranty (unplug the hose when it goes to the dealer).
Now all my direct injection car has a meth kit.
@098cpt that helps with valve buildup but won't do much for your oil rings
Magically will create new piston or valve rings😮
Outstanding!
I need to try this - My B8 S4 has a real oil consumption problem
My 2017 Q7 is at 136,000 kms and doesnt burn oil. Should I be worried about carbon buildup on the valves? Should this soak be done as preventative maintenance?
The owner noticed the consumption at 150k... honestly if you're using the correct oil etc. there's little you can do to control this... if it's not burning oil I wouldn't worry about doing this
Advice to replace the pcv under the supercharged unit. And check if there is any tsb for a ecm calibration after the replacement
the pcv was already replaced on this motor so I didn't need to go that deep
Hi there, first off that was an amazing video demonstration! Very impressed with how clearly you explained everything!
I have a problem. I definitely have a lot of carbon build up. My car isn’t necessarily burning thru a bunch of oil, but I have blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe on hard acceleration (4,000+ rpms). I also have hard shifting 1st-2nd and sometimes 3rd gear. Is it possible I have stuck piston rings from carbon build up and need to do this B12 piston soak?
Thanks in advance for any advice you have, I’ve been dealing with this issue for a while and it’s frustrating!
@Sle3p520 hey thanks for the kind words! Blue smoke is definitely oil related but if you're not losing a lot of oil it could be coming from the PCV too... doing a soak won't really hurt anything so definitely worth a try and I would do the PCV service at the same time... for the shifts that's a different question - any codes from the transmission? Have you done an oil service? What car is it?
@@ETMotorsports 14 Q5 3.0t (basically this Q7). It has 233,000 km on it and oil has been changed every 8,000 km with Castro Edge 5w40.
I just recently did this year
-ZF8 transmission/filter change
-PCV
-SC intercooler bricks
I have a soft code for PCV, but a few days ago I did the SC bricks and the valley under the SC was completely dry. No signs of coolant or oil loss. No other codes that could cause this issue. And just recently I learned about the blue smoke whenever I hard accelerate. It does not blow blue smoke when driving normal/idling.
Hi Mate, love your videos, just wondering what software you use to make your Thumbnails as they fonts really standout nice? Thanks
Thanks! Lol PowerPoint :)
When do you blow the dry carbon out of the piston? After the first soak and before rotating the crank for the second soak?
I would do both - it can't hurt...
Hey man ! Can’t find a way to rotate the crankshaft is there another way to rotate the pistons ?
@@Branggamer21 how do you mean? You rotate through the crank pulley at the front - there's no other way
Can i use the B12 on 3.0 V6 w164 MB engines?
@@cvetomircvetkov5670 your can use it on any engine you want - no issues
my a4 is in Really good shape inside & out. so it's Def worth it
The smoke show at 19:00 😂
What do you think about new engine oil valvolin restore and protect
Oil and additives alone won't fix the ring issues
Just wanted to see if you could give an update on the Q7 you did this to. Does it still burn a little oil or does it 100% not burn oil anymore? I did the soak to my Q7 and it will burns about 1L every 4000 miles. Considering doing the soak again down the road.
@GOOD__DUDE the owner messaged me at 5k and was down two lines on the sensor measurement... my guess is it's not 100% eliminated but he does not go through a liter every week anymore... at 1L per 4000 miles you're well within the VW spec...I do my changes at 5000km and you're at 6400km for a liter...I would time my oil changes with the consumption so you don't have to add any oil between changes... what was your consumption before? Nothing stops you from repeating the soak - this time around you can try milder chemicals like seafoam and if you're comfortable doing it, you can make it into a routine service say every 3 oil changes
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the advice. Before doing the soak, I changed the PCV and was at 1L every 2K miles. I was considering topping off with Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer (instead of oil) if the oil level got low and I didn’t plan on changing the oil for a little longer. Have you heard of anyone having success with Lucas to slow the consumption? Also, does the 3.0 TSFI engine take 7L (7.4QT) of oil? Its hard to find anywhere that actually shows how much oil to refill with.
When the engine wouldn't turn, That large gunk chunk of carbon. Do you think that probably came off the manifold side of a valve stem and made the valve stick open?
@MrArtisticGuy no it ended up being carbon dust... it looks like a big chunk because all of it builds up at the lower end of the piston head
@@ETMotorsports I just bought a used Q7 ( 3.0 T TFSI with 100K miles. 3.0T It burns a quart of oil every 250 miles. I'm really glad that I found your video. It seems to me that with the piston soak , with the manual turning of the crank, that might also help with some of the intake valve cleaning. You uses 1.5 ML of seafoam which likely over filed the cylinder and backup into the spark plug whole while you turned the crank manually. That probably allowed some of the solution to enter the intake manifold slightly when the intake valve started to open. When yours locked up while trying to turn it, perhaps that was a large chunk that had dislodged from an intake valve stem and held the valve open to where it touched the piston. You seemed extremely surprised at how dirty is was. I think the valves may have been the source of the contamination. Either way; I'll be super careful. I might even intentionally go a bit heavy with the B-12 ( 150 ML or more ) to keep the fluid level high enough to seep up into the intake manifold as the piston begins to descend on the intake stroke which will help soak the manifold side of those valve stems a bit.
Two questions
I’m going to give this a go in a couple weeks while I don’t need the car daily…
1. If I run into the carbon issue where you can no longer crank the car by hand, and the valves are open but you can not crank the car… what to do? Just blow it out?
2. Of course you’d want the oil to be warm but is it better to just immediately drain the oil without even starting after doing this?
Appreciate any help!
@nelsinivr6 on the first one - yes pretty much all you can do is blow them out and keep working it... for the oil it's your choice - I run my engine wth the B12 but some people are worried and drain it without running
@@ETMotorsportsthanks for the reply! Cool maybe I’ll run it just a bit at idle to warm the oil otherwise draining might be a pain haha.
I was mostly just concerned w blowing carbon past open valves but what came out of yours didn’t appear it would necessarily hurt anything… hopefully.
👍🇬🇧