Why didn't you just leave the motor, trans, and struts on the K frame? (K frame is the subframe for all transverse mount engines because they resemble a K.) You leave it dangling from the top strut mount nuts and left and right motor mounts. I leave the tires on, it doesn't cost anything, they are not higher than a jackstand under the K. Take the nuts off the top of the struts and the motor mounts off the strut towers then lift the car up. The entire subassembly, struts, tires, k frame, motor and trans will all come out at once. Without touching any of the engine and transmission mounts on the K frame until it's rolling around in the open on the front wheels.
Thanks for the video.. I busted my oil pan an have to drop the sub to change it.. but there was no videos.. I always like to see how others do it cause one bolt can change the whole complex of it..
Is it easier to do it from the bottom or using a cherry picker from top ? I need to do my timing asap it's my daily so I been watching vids on removing the motor unless u have a video on how to do the timing components while it's still in the car
"Nothing in this engine bay is designed to come out the top" Yeah I can see that LOL, i've been doing everything I can from the top. Bumper and cooling plate plus that cross piece around where the hood latch were the first things to go. Drained all coolant and oil. Removing the intake manifold was a nightmare because I found out the shop I'd taken it to to replace my starter (dead of winter I didn't feel like messing with it.) Cross threaded one of the two nuts that go on studs in the block. all the bolts around came off with little issue after finding the right angle and extensions to use. But I had to take a dremel and notch away at the nut until I could hit it with a flat head to rotate it counter clockwise. Hit is as far as it would go, make another notch with the cutting wheel, hit to rotate, and repeat. I eneded up messing up my RBC a tiny bit right behind where the nut was, but was able to buff it out with an air gun. My k20z3 has 205k miles on it and is disgustingly dirty. I had my transmission rebuilt at around 140k miles when my 3rd gear synchro snapped off and got stuck in the shift fork. One day after work in my infinite wisdom, I had my phone in my right hand when I started the car up. Muscle memory goes, left foot on clutch, start engine, right hand puts the car in neutral, release clutch. Well I was on the phone with my right hand so I let off the clutch like it was in neutral and had the parking brake still on. Gave me a scare and a super violent lurch forwards. Oh great. Now if I try to drive it, i'll have to wait until its RPMs drop low enough for me to be able to slide into the next gear. It doesn't grind while doing this, it just seems to be hitting a wall. The work around to drive it, is to just double clutch every shift as it takes long enough for the engine speed to drop down. I'm not sure what I ended up breaking, i wouldn't think it would be the synchros again because every gear feels the same and I dont see how it being in 1st gear could damage every gear on both shaft and countershaft. So my plan right now is to just rip the entire thing out, engine and trans, right out the top with a crane. I've got all my coolant lines, wiring harness (except the section that goes to the coilpacks, it continues to the rear passenger side of the block and the assembly seems to be on one of those metal tabs that hold the connectors on. I could remove some of the connnectors, but the biggest piece is still stuck. I removed both coils/dampers from the front so the wheel hub and shaft assemblies can move freely in all directions. I still need to drop the subframe to seperate the steering column but I don't want to remove the tie rods. Kind of stuck on the front sway bar as that bolt that connects it to the control arm just spins freely with the rubber grease filled part behind it. I was hoping to pull it all out the top without dropping the subframe but it looks like I'm going to have to anyway. Was trying to do as least amount of work from underneath the car as possible as 1)I don't trust jack stands 2)dont feel like crawling around in all the random spilled oil and coolant 3)i'm old and not in the same shape I was when in active duty So now the gameplan is remove everything I can that's not a motor mount until it's ready to be hooked up to the crane. I think splitting the transmission where the flywheel and clutch are located will make it easier with less stuff to get in the way from left to right while pulling up.
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I picked one of these up for $700 with a cracked block, ill definitely be using this vid to pull the swap out the easiest way
Thanks!
Crystal clear explanations. You have teaching skills.
Why didn't you just leave the motor, trans, and struts on the K frame? (K frame is the subframe for all transverse mount engines because they resemble a K.)
You leave it dangling from the top strut mount nuts and left and right motor mounts. I leave the tires on, it doesn't cost anything, they are not higher than a jackstand under the K. Take the nuts off the top of the struts and the motor mounts off the strut towers then lift the car up. The entire subassembly, struts, tires, k frame, motor and trans will all come out at once. Without touching any of the engine and transmission mounts on the K frame until it's rolling around in the open on the front wheels.
Thanks for the video.. I busted my oil pan an have to drop the sub to change it.. but there was no videos.. I always like to see how others do it cause one bolt can change the whole complex of it..
Some people got away with just lowering the subframe by 2"
Is it easier to do it from the bottom or using a cherry picker from top ? I need to do my timing asap it's my daily so I been watching vids on removing the motor unless u have a video on how to do the timing components while it's still in the car
It's always easier from the bottom, I would maybe use the cherry picker to lower the engine while the front end is elevated on jackstands
Honda HRV 2018 it was hit on the right side but the car is sticking out on the right side more than the left side
"Nothing in this engine bay is designed to come out the top" Yeah I can see that LOL, i've been doing everything I can from the top. Bumper and cooling plate plus that cross piece around where the hood latch were the first things to go. Drained all coolant and oil. Removing the intake manifold was a nightmare because I found out the shop I'd taken it to to replace my starter (dead of winter I didn't feel like messing with it.) Cross threaded one of the two nuts that go on studs in the block. all the bolts around came off with little issue after finding the right angle and extensions to use. But I had to take a dremel and notch away at the nut until I could hit it with a flat head to rotate it counter clockwise. Hit is as far as it would go, make another notch with the cutting wheel, hit to rotate, and repeat. I eneded up messing up my RBC a tiny bit right behind where the nut was, but was able to buff it out with an air gun.
My k20z3 has 205k miles on it and is disgustingly dirty. I had my transmission rebuilt at around 140k miles when my 3rd gear synchro snapped off and got stuck in the shift fork. One day after work in my infinite wisdom, I had my phone in my right hand when I started the car up. Muscle memory goes, left foot on clutch, start engine, right hand puts the car in neutral, release clutch. Well I was on the phone with my right hand so I let off the clutch like it was in neutral and had the parking brake still on. Gave me a scare and a super violent lurch forwards. Oh great. Now if I try to drive it, i'll have to wait until its RPMs drop low enough for me to be able to slide into the next gear. It doesn't grind while doing this, it just seems to be hitting a wall. The work around to drive it, is to just double clutch every shift as it takes long enough for the engine speed to drop down. I'm not sure what I ended up breaking, i wouldn't think it would be the synchros again because every gear feels the same and I dont see how it being in 1st gear could damage every gear on both shaft and countershaft.
So my plan right now is to just rip the entire thing out, engine and trans, right out the top with a crane. I've got all my coolant lines, wiring harness (except the section that goes to the coilpacks, it continues to the rear passenger side of the block and the assembly seems to be on one of those metal tabs that hold the connectors on. I could remove some of the connnectors, but the biggest piece is still stuck. I removed both coils/dampers from the front so the wheel hub and shaft assemblies can move freely in all directions. I still need to drop the subframe to seperate the steering column but I don't want to remove the tie rods. Kind of stuck on the front sway bar as that bolt that connects it to the control arm just spins freely with the rubber grease filled part behind it. I was hoping to pull it all out the top without dropping the subframe but it looks like I'm going to have to anyway. Was trying to do as least amount of work from underneath the car as possible as
1)I don't trust jack stands
2)dont feel like crawling around in all the random spilled oil and coolant
3)i'm old and not in the same shape I was when in active duty
So now the gameplan is remove everything I can that's not a motor mount until it's ready to be hooked up to the crane. I think splitting the transmission where the flywheel and clutch are located will make it easier with less stuff to get in the way from left to right while pulling up.
Probably your CMC cylinder if haven't been replaced yet
This is awesome! I have 8th gen that i am doing the same thing I was so confused, Also can you use the same wiring harness for the k24 Frank setup?
Funny enough, i'm about to do the same setup myself XD from what I've researched, yes you can.
👍