It brought a small tear to my eye that you actually knew exactly how to set up the chess pieces on the chess board. I can't even count how many advertisements from chess board and chess piece manufacturers that have taken photos of their product with the king and queen in the wrong place (queen to her color) or have the pieces setup sideways on the board because they didn't understand "white square in the lower right corner". Strong work on the design, I really love the stairwell in the rook tower.
Joel, Thank you so, so much for printing my chess set. The crosses in the kings helmet are intended as s built in support that can be removed after printing. I do like the idea that it could be an added detail to the design.
Why do the raster scan on the laser? If you were going to mask and paint it, why not just use a low power cut to cut the pattern in the tape, then peel the squares off where the paint will be applied?
@@bavabangarsd7267 well, it's not like I have his model files on hand right now, and even if I did I wouldn't give them to you. But here, this is a video he made a while back that I edited for him. th-cam.com/video/ljkyoeVHVL0/w-d-xo.html Pretty funny that you need me to prove this, lol.
With the laser instead of rastering the squares you could have etched the outline (cut but very low power so to only cut the tape) then peeled the squares off that you wanted to paint.
This episode had a very wholesome feel Joel, bit of a Bob Ross vibe with the happy little accidents. My Wanhao Di3 currently needs some work (new PEI sheet I think needs doing), but I love these videos!
You can buy "transfer tape" from any place that sells vinyl cutter supplies. Just make sure to get a paper based type, and check the MSDS for that brand to make sure it's safe to burn. You can get it in HUGE sizes. Then you can tape up the wood with one piece. Keep up the great work. Hi-5 buddy!
Hey Joel, not sure if you will see this. But an easier way to do something like that with the laser would be to have it just focus on drawing the lines themselves. Then you could have just peeled up the alternating pieces without having to burn through full sections. This was a trick that I figured out with my (far less powerful) laser, it can also be useful for spray painting custom stencils out of the painters tape.
Hi Joel finally a maker kind of thing the 3D & a LASER combo build. I agree with some of the other people about just either just laying out the tape correctly in the first place and painting it or using the LASER to cut the taped sub straight and peal out the areas to be painted. Also you could have used a thin veneer of woods used the LASER TO cut very exact squares then glued then on to a thicker board or even a Box / Container to store the Chess Pieces GOOD JOB I am just some one who over does things High Five and a big Hug
lovely video! just one thing, I am pretty sure it doesn't cut through, not because the mirrors are off, but more likely the need cleaning. (dirty mirrors doesn't reflect as much). Or it might be just the tape with makes it a bit thicker. What I like to do when laser cutting is added 0,1/0,2 to the with of the cutting deeps. just to make sure it goes through. Cutting it manual can be a pain in the... depending on the Shape :) Keep the great work up:)
This is cool, but imagine if you used wood filament for the pieces, stained one of the sets darker, and used the laser cutter to get a darker raster for the grid.
I have the following issue while using the laser in my Ender 3-Pro from Creality: The height can be customized, and the printer responds to Z offset changes. (software, screen, or Gcode) The machine, I heard it switch on/off, although it does not engrave at all from laser speed 15 to 3,000 mm/min that I tried. I just see a mild sign of work when I put my eye close, but nothing noticeable. The laser won't light up by itself. I have to go to the screen of the printer and adjust the Fan Speed 100% for every print. Even though, the gcode file has M106 S255 in several sections..... and M107 at the end. CAN YOU HELP ME TO MAKE THE LASER WORK....? it had not been an easy process, I am almost frustrated. Thanks.
I’m so glad you made this video, as I’m trying to print this exact same chess set! I did notice in the Thingiverse page it says that there is built in support on the king. I think that’s what the floating cross piece is.
I originally designed them for SLS printing on Shapeways before I had a FDM machine. With the Prusa I really like printing them at 200% scale but it takes about 80 hours to produce an entire set that big.
I've seen some great miniatures printed from Makergear 3D printers hopefully you can yours tuned in more. Neat to see the laser back in action. Had you heard of the Lewis chessmen set? It's a neat looking set from the 12th century.
I actually use a glass chess board as my printing surface. I've thought about printing out a chess set on it just to get the picture of all of the pieces aligned to the squares.
Interesting idea :) Be careful for different types of glass could dangerously crack and shatter depending depending on a variety of factors such as heating or cooling.
If you just wanted the laser to cut away the tape mask, you'd be a lot better off vector engraving the lines. I skipped around in this video a bit so I don't know if you discussed this, but vector engraving the lines and peeling up the tape would probably take less than a minute. Raster engraving across that whole board, even at like a .005" stepover would probably take upwards of something like 15-25 minutes depending on scan speed plus then you still had to take the chisel to it to clean up the little bits that weren't ablated away.
I was truly expecting people sized chess pieces. I think this turned out awesome. Question, could you have the laser take a second less powerful pass to burn away the remaining tape?
Did you consider painting the board silver before taping? Then you could get silver and blue squares that would match both colors if the pieces. (I'm sure this was mentioned before in the comments but i got tired of clicking through the See More Comments and just thought I would ask.
If you wanted to remove the squares that you etched out, it would have been better off to just cut a grid and peel the alternating squares. I've been using a laser cutter for quite a while, it's just easier in the long run to peel the pieces you don't want than to clean up an etch. Just my 2 cents.
Those Polyalchemy filaments are notoriously hard to get fine details looking good, it's a very 'gooey' pla. To get any level of detail with those is s good result. You would get much better results with a more conventional pla 👍🏻
Hi joel! i met you at maker faire but i was super nervous to talk to you because lowkey i was freaking out that i actually met you. That being said, thanks for being super cool!
For some reason a quotation from 'One Hundred Years Of Solitude' by Gabriel García Márquez came into my mind: "On a certain occasion when Father Nicanor brought a checker set to the chestnut tree and invited him to a game, Jose Arcadio Buendia would not accept, because according to him he could never understand the sense of a contest in which the two adversaries have agreed upon the rules. Father Nicanor, who had never seen checkers played that way, could not play it again" Checkers ain't chess but still...
Joel, I love the chess board. A comment on technique though, You could have saved a ton of time by not rastering the tape away. Instead, do the outline of your squares as a vector and cut at a low power. Enough to just cut the tape. Then weed the squares away and paint, this would also be generally unaffected by layering the tape and be infinitely faster.
@@keithspencersr.6806 I have printed them at this size, 150% and 200%. The larger the better the details come out but the time also increases significantly.
@@keithspencersr.6806 I am not sure how to post photos here but I have pics on my website. The clear and transparent black are this size. The black and white are 200% NTX9Design.com
Instead of using blue tape you can also use transfer tape that’s meant for vinyl stickers. This gives you a much more even cut across your whole surface. www.amazon.com/dp/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aBv4CbG5TMSYX
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't hear him saying the layer height. He only said that he used 0.35mm nozzle, which can easily print with 0.1mm layer height. Cheers :)
i encourage taking a cigarette lighter to those freshly printed chess pieces, just for a tenth of a second. it will melt away any and all minute plastic strands left hanging off your freshly 3d printed pieces.
Hi, strange use of the lazer for the checkerboard! You could have done the same by simply cutting the paper with a blade and a ruler and pull the paper in a shorter time. It's a good illustration of how to kill a fly with an atomic bomb, isn't it😎? Nice checkerboard by the way
I am not sure what you mean by Giant but we have made 2 rooks that were 8" tall. (Max on my Prusa Mk2.) I also changed the porportions to 125% in the x/y axis on these large prints.
If you played against Josef Prusa and won, would you say "Czech mate?"
TheWeb Expert i see what you did there
TheWeb Expert
Yes.
That's how people order the bill at a restaurant in Australia.
It brought a small tear to my eye that you actually knew exactly how to set up the chess pieces on the chess board. I can't even count how many advertisements from chess board and chess piece manufacturers that have taken photos of their product with the king and queen in the wrong place (queen to her color) or have the pieces setup sideways on the board because they didn't understand "white square in the lower right corner". Strong work on the design, I really love the stairwell in the rook tower.
Joel,
Thank you so, so much for printing my chess set.
The crosses in the kings helmet are intended as s built in support that can be removed after printing. I do like the idea that it could be an added detail to the design.
Hey thank you - YES I removed them after the video. LOVE the design.
@NTX9 Design That's a really dope design of the chess pieces!
Love the faceted rooks/castles, the way the light reflects on alternate facets for a checkerboard effect.
Why do the raster scan on the laser? If you were going to mask and paint it, why not just use a low power cut to cut the pattern in the tape, then peel the squares off where the paint will be applied?
Thought the same
My dad was the one that originally designed these models, and I gotta say it's absolutely surreal seeing you cover them!
That’s so cool!
Proof kiddo
@@bavabangarsd7267 well, it's not like I have his model files on hand right now, and even if I did I wouldn't give them to you. But here, this is a video he made a while back that I edited for him.
th-cam.com/video/ljkyoeVHVL0/w-d-xo.html
Pretty funny that you need me to prove this, lol.
@@Saidriak That's awesome design!
With the laser instead of rastering the squares you could have etched the outline (cut but very low power so to only cut the tape) then peeled the squares off that you wanted to paint.
This ^. Faster & cleaner. Also add a clearcoat before the blue to prevent seeping.
This episode had a very wholesome feel Joel, bit of a Bob Ross vibe with the happy little accidents.
My Wanhao Di3 currently needs some work (new PEI sheet I think needs doing), but I love these videos!
You can buy "transfer tape" from any place that sells vinyl cutter supplies. Just make sure to get a paper based type, and check the MSDS for that brand to make sure it's safe to burn. You can get it in HUGE sizes. Then you can tape up the wood with one piece. Keep up the great work. Hi-5 buddy!
Hey Joel, not sure if you will see this. But an easier way to do something like that with the laser would be to have it just focus on drawing the lines themselves. Then you could have just peeled up the alternating pieces without having to burn through full sections. This was a trick that I figured out with my (far less powerful) laser, it can also be useful for spray painting custom stencils out of the painters tape.
You could have printed the board with polypanels.
You could then fold the board in a container for the pieces.
Flood coat of self leveling resin to give it a sort of 3-dimensional appeal and make the colors really POP!
Hi Joel finally a maker kind of thing the 3D & a LASER combo build. I agree with some of the other people about just either just laying out the tape correctly in the first place and painting it or using the LASER to cut the taped sub straight and peal out the areas to be painted. Also you could have used a thin veneer of woods used the LASER TO cut very exact squares then glued then on to a thicker board or even a Box / Container to store the Chess Pieces GOOD JOB I am just some one who over does things High Five and a big Hug
Another awesome vid. Love the silk filaments. I think silks don't do as well on details in general but look so cool it makes up for it.
It is a thing of blue-ty! You may want to spray on some clear coat to protect the board. Raw plywood has a nasty habit of getting dirty.
Raw plywood has the nasty habit of warping.
slugore not if you keep it clean
What can be used to clean up the chess pieces?
lovely video!
just one thing, I am pretty sure it doesn't cut through, not because the mirrors are off, but more likely the need cleaning. (dirty mirrors doesn't reflect as much). Or it might be just the tape with makes it a bit thicker. What I like to do when laser cutting is added 0,1/0,2 to the with of the cutting deeps. just to make sure it goes through. Cutting it manual can be a pain in the... depending on the Shape :)
Keep the great work up:)
This is cool, but imagine if you used wood filament for the pieces, stained one of the sets darker, and used the laser cutter to get a darker raster for the grid.
I have the following issue while using the laser in my Ender 3-Pro from Creality:
The height can be customized, and the printer responds to Z offset changes. (software, screen, or Gcode)
The machine, I heard it switch on/off, although it does not engrave at all from laser speed 15 to 3,000 mm/min that I tried.
I just see a mild sign of work when I put my eye close, but nothing noticeable.
The laser won't light up by itself. I have to go to the screen of the printer and adjust the Fan Speed 100% for every print.
Even though, the gcode file has M106 S255 in several sections..... and M107 at the end.
CAN YOU HELP ME TO MAKE THE LASER WORK....? it had not been an easy process, I am almost frustrated.
Thanks.
Rick Seiden beat me to it, why not engraving the board parts? Only reason I can think of, is that the engraving might wear off, if it was too light.
I’m so glad you made this video, as I’m trying to print this exact same chess set! I did notice in the Thingiverse page it says that there is built in support on the king. I think that’s what the floating cross piece is.
That is correct.
were these diesigned for sls and sla printers, or for fdm printers? juts wondering as they are so detailed. great job by the way!
NTX9 printed them on a Prusa i3 Mk2.5 at 0.1mm layer resolution.
I originally designed them for SLS printing on Shapeways before I had a FDM machine. With the Prusa I really like printing them at 200% scale but it takes about 80 hours to produce an entire set that big.
I know you were going for blue squares. If you weren't, could you have used the laser cutter to burn the squares and cut out the board?
I was thinking black acrylic with etched squares. But I believe it would take a very long time.
Great project. Love the Polyalchemy filaments and your color selection!
I've seen some great miniatures printed from Makergear 3D printers hopefully you can yours tuned in more. Neat to see the laser back in action. Had you heard of the Lewis chessmen set? It's a neat looking set from the 12th century.
I actually use a glass chess board as my printing surface. I've thought about printing out a chess set on it just to get the picture of all of the pieces aligned to the squares.
Interesting idea :) Be careful for different types of glass could dangerously crack and shatter depending depending on a variety of factors such as heating or cooling.
@@HiHi-he4tz These seem to be tempered glass and I haven't had any issues with them in well over a year of printing.
can you do a review and installation tutorial of the diamond hotend?
If you just wanted the laser to cut away the tape mask, you'd be a lot better off vector engraving the lines. I skipped around in this video a bit so I don't know if you discussed this, but vector engraving the lines and peeling up the tape would probably take less than a minute. Raster engraving across that whole board, even at like a .005" stepover would probably take upwards of something like 15-25 minutes depending on scan speed plus then you still had to take the chisel to it to clean up the little bits that weren't ablated away.
Did you add extra weight to the pieces?
Where could you buy one of those lasers?
How did u do the “spongebob 3D” thing in simplify?
You could have added a glass sheet on top with some sort of clip to hold it; it would have looked way better
Looks absolute cool Joel
I was truly expecting people sized chess pieces. I think this turned out awesome. Question, could you have the laser take a second less powerful pass to burn away the remaining tape?
If there's a 'gunmetal' filament, I think that would look _really_ good with the silver
Hey Joel! Fun video! And Sean, good editing!
Easy 8 thank you!
Question are you still using fusion 360 for your modeling? If so do you have a video upload a design into the raised 3D
Please and thank you
Looks amazing Joel, love it, novel approach.
Did you consider painting the board silver before taping? Then you could get silver and blue squares that would match both colors if the pieces. (I'm sure this was mentioned before in the comments but i got tired of clicking through the See More Comments and just thought I would ask.
The silver and blue ....... wow! Awesome 👏 projects
nice build! only one remark, could have used some more nicely thick wood.
So now you're going to use a similar process to print 3dPN maker coin chess pieces, right?
Funnily enough I’m in the process of printing my own chess set, with 3D printed pieces and a laser etched board! Guess we are twins 😂
If you wanted to remove the squares that you etched out, it would have been better off to just cut a grid and peel the alternating squares.
I've been using a laser cutter for quite a while, it's just easier in the long run to peel the pieces you don't want than to clean up an etch.
Just my 2 cents.
Hey Joel. have you ever looked into the German brand "FilaFarm" who makes the "FilaPrint" printing surface?
Those Polyalchemy filaments are notoriously hard to get fine details looking good, it's a very 'gooey' pla. To get any level of detail with those is s good result. You would get much better results with a more conventional pla 👍🏻
Couldn't he have just lasercut a grid and peeled the tape squares off instead of burning filled-in squares?
Be cool to make one 3ftx3ft it would take time for all the Chess pieces .
Hi joel! i met you at maker faire but i was super nervous to talk to you because lowkey i was freaking out that i actually met you. That being said, thanks for being super cool!
Love the shirt! Ironically, that's what I was doing while watching your video.
For some reason a quotation from 'One Hundred Years Of Solitude' by Gabriel García Márquez came into my mind:
"On a certain occasion when Father Nicanor brought a
checker set to the chestnut tree and invited him to a game, Jose Arcadio Buendia would not accept,
because according to him he could never understand the sense of a contest in which the two
adversaries have agreed upon the rules. Father Nicanor, who had never seen checkers played that way, could not play it again"
Checkers ain't chess but still...
Joel, I love the chess board. A comment on technique though, You could have saved a ton of time by not rastering the tape away. Instead, do the outline of your squares as a vector and cut at a low power. Enough to just cut the tape. Then weed the squares away and paint, this would also be generally unaffected by layering the tape and be infinitely faster.
Laser scum is vaporized wood (creosote) that has recondensed back on the surface.
Any reason why you printed them so small?
They look really cool at 200%.
That sound a very good size, hey Gizzi did you print in this size? Any pic?
@@keithspencersr.6806 I have printed them at this size, 150% and 200%. The larger the better the details come out but the time also increases significantly.
@@keithspencersr.6806 I am not sure how to post photos here but I have pics on my website. The clear and transparent black are this size. The black and white are 200%
NTX9Design.com
thanks for always proving you are human, love your realistic nature!
I gotta get to printing that shogi (Japanese chess) set...
Looks like you will have lots of fun
now you need to 3d print a base for the board and stroage for the chess peices
Great project & love the colors. Oh man, the nightsky 1.75 is out of stock. 🙁
Instead of using blue tape you can also use transfer tape that’s meant for vinyl stickers. This gives you a much more even cut across your whole surface.
www.amazon.com/dp/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aBv4CbG5TMSYX
As a 3-D enthusiast AND chess lover I can say this set is I-N-S-A-N-E especially the rooks!
LOL Thanks!
Nice chess set. How much would you sell it for?
Should weight the bottoms of the pieces to keep them in place better.
I have printed a set at 150% size with washers and magnets in each piece.
Challenge, you should make a techdeck skate board. Or make ramps and obstacles
Tech deck is still a thing? I honestly thought that went out years ago.
Sponge bob 3D 😂 Awesome video as always 😃 love it!
Joel with .1 mm layer height the result should much more better.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't hear him saying the layer height. He only said that he used 0.35mm nozzle, which can easily print with 0.1mm layer height. Cheers :)
@@ssheytanov no he didn't say the layer height. But they don't look like .1 mm. The look like .25 mm
Could be just a matter of keeping the print time reasonable. Otherwise a complete set of two colors would be about an 80 hour print.
This is amazing! Very good video :)
No sponsor? What are people gonna complain about in this video?
I hate this comment always assuming people will complain about ANYTHING. I'm *offended
*Jk
SpongeBob 3D :D
He could have reached to chess.com or lichess.com
i encourage taking a cigarette lighter to those freshly printed chess pieces, just for a tenth of a second. it will melt away any and all minute plastic strands left hanging off your freshly 3d printed pieces.
I love the design of this chess set
Holy shit....
Great video as always from u, the set looks really nice !
You could alter your maker coin into some checker pieces.
Hi, strange use of the lazer for the checkerboard! You could have done the same by simply cutting the paper with a blade and a ruler and pull the paper in a shorter time. It's a good illustration of how to kill a fly with an atomic bomb, isn't it😎? Nice checkerboard by the way
Interesting mix
Thanks for sharing😀👍
make the set from Star Trek you know the 3D chess set that hurts the brain to try and figure out
Paint before laser, so you don't need the tape, burn the paint
If you were to send Josef Prusa somewhere by post - say, to Abu Dhabi, like Garfield with Nermal - would you tell people "the Czech's in the mail?"
Yes, you made it.... you made it.... and its good.
I'd vector cut the squares it would be much quicker.
Yeah that would have been better.
That was nice to watch when you peeled off the tape
Thanks for sharing the mistakes and failures in your videos.
If you'd coat the board in epoxy resin and make it shine it would up the look a million times! ;)
Did Sean (Shawn? Shaun?) Ever learn how to play chess?
hi brilliant vid Joel
You should make a star trek 3d board
That would be cool.
You should have some made up and sell them. I'd want a 3D Printing Nerd Official chess set.
Now we need to see a game of chess
You need extra pieces for promotion
can you make a giant rook
I am not sure what you mean by Giant but we have made 2 rooks that were 8" tall. (Max on my Prusa Mk2.) I also changed the porportions to 125% in the x/y axis on these large prints.
I love ya, Joel... but ..... Man it pains me to do this .... You're killing me with "bolth"
That's beautiful!
Love the shirt!!!!
It sounds like you're saying "SpongeBob 3D" when you're talking about the slicer. I tried googling it, and came up empty. What slicer are you using?
Rick Seiden He’s using simplify 3D but doesn’t want to recommend them. Plus their not a sponsor. He’s just used to using it for slicing.
Awesome!
Love that shirt !!
I always make it to the end Joel lol even on your other channel !!
Can I buy one Joe from you
Ntx9design.com
next print a storage box for them :)
Check out this video! Machine vision camera at it's best! th-cam.com/video/e5L9GI1HAeU/w-d-xo.html
Silver and blue? Ummm who goes first?
i guess silver