Amazing. How long did this take? I lost weight just from watching. Sheesh. I have a greater understanding as to why engine work is so freaking expensive. Great work sir!
Australian Made Toyota Aurion has the same engine mounts (same engine) I used the same prcoedure shown in the video to change all my engine mounts, except that you dont have remove the radiator in the Aurion. Thank you, you earned a sub.
He always leaves at least 1 of the mounts connected to the engine. 2:50 Losen Front mount 3:19 Removes Top left Top Moving Control Rod 3:43 Passenger Side 5:33 Driver Side 7:32 Front Mount 9:03 Puts in bolts for Top Moving Control Rod 9:31 Go back and tighten up all bolts on the mounts and put it all back together again. Good luck!
Excellent video, I've changed mounts in other vehicles, but was a little apprehensive in doing my 08 es350, but after seeing this I know i can handle it. Thank you brother!!
Great video, really helped in prepping me for the job. My Chilton's manual for the car (07-12 Toyota Camry, Avalon and Lexus ES350) only said to remove the top bolts from each mount prior to lifting the engine.
Great video, thank you! You're correct, it took about 2 hours on the dot.. Car was an 07' ES 350. Front mount has no vacuum lines but does have 2 electrical plugs and a ground that was already cut. One tip, be smart unlike me... watch when you're removed the fans.. the upper radiator tube is brittle and made of fiberglass and breaks easily 😅
You may want to consider replacing the radiator if the tube / hose port was brittle. It's plastic that with age and constant heat cycles begins to degrade. Look for hair line cranks in the plastic. That's a sign the radiator is on its last legs.
Hardly Moving making it look easy once again! I just hope the motor mount that has to be twisted goes as smooth for me and injury free... Thanks again.
Thank you for the video. I need to replace mine in my car and I've been looking at the Anchor brand. Can you tell us how are they holding up in comparison to the OEM? Thank you
Fantastic video. But to all you Toyota and Lexus owners, I can’t stress this enough - use OEM engine mounts. They are more expensive but if you watch a few TH-cam videos from Toyota master mechanics like car care nut, you will see that aftermarket engine mounts are no no.
@@hardlymovingpro my car shake/vibrate so bad at any stoplight shake more aggressively when AC is on not matter if I put on nutural still vibrate I heard it it’s engine mount would reduce the vibrate or put on N ,, any idea what it could be , I changed spark plugs like 2 days ago thanks
Do more Honda Civics on your early videos. All parts, replacements and fixes.. Specially the 2001-2005 variants which is lowly covered online. You'll have a subscriber and views boost, trust me you'll be million subs in 6 months.
Man, you look and sound like you know exactly what you're doing lol. Thank you!!! I can't wait until the day you do a timing belt on the Lexus V8 engine.
This is an excellent video! I think I’ll give this a try. Question for you: I have a 2008 Lexus RX350 and when I gently accelerate and maintain my speed, I hear a chirping/squeaking noise from the engine bay/dashboard. But when I put it in neutral and step on the gas pedal in the same manner, I don’t hear and chirping squeaking. Would you say the engine and tranny mounts can cause the noise?
Thanks! Chirping/squeaking noise is cause by something rotating that's worn out. Could be an accessory belt, belt tensioner or idler pulley or anything that the belt rotates (i.e. power steering pump, ac compressor and alternator).
@@hardlymovingpro that’s what I figured too but the serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, radiator and thermostat were replaced a month ago. Only other thing I haven’t looked into is any exhaust leak.
Another great video...however, doing this on a 190K mile V6 Camry I had to use the 2ft. breaker - battery impact got about 1/3 the way down then just expanded the stud from heat and stalled (17mm in-frame studs). I sprayed PB liberally but the problem is you can't get a wire wheel or hand brush in the frame rail openings to clean the rust off...so, the 17mm nut is effectively "cleaning" the threads on the studs as you go.. Its a B...an air impact would most likely zip them off but I am a jack stand DIY'er. My question is: can I re-use the 17mm stud nuts on a new set of OEM mounts I am ready to install? Toyota dealer doesn't stock them and added that they re-use them regardless. I watched all your 2GR-FE videos and they are great! Thanks
Before mounting on the new mounts, grease the studs and see how easy the 17mm nuts spin on. Also, if you have a metric tap and die set, you can clean up the nut's threads.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you. Going to the parts store to match up new ones. Also, I was not able to get the new top studs off the new OEM mounts prior to install - is there a trick? I had to go up pretty far with the floor jack to get them in, hope I didn't compress one too hard...great video's, great mechanic, thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro In your defense I have been changing the lower arm bushes on an RX400h today so its very fresh. Only difference between the two is you can't jack the engine up high enough in the 400h to make removing the engine mounts easy, and i'm in the UK so everything has about 100x more rust.
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah.. I started tonight... Right out of the gate. I fight to get the front mount out. Then realize. They gave me the wrong part. As it has no vacuum port on it.. No more customers bring me the parts. As they always seem to never get the right ones for the year model they have. Now I got to go buy the right ones. And then charge them for it....
Question, 2008 Lexus ES350. My pin hole on transmission mount is facing to the outside . Can you rotate the mount appropriately 90* so it will line up. The one I ordered has pin hole to the inside?
What do you think of those Anchor mounts? Inferior results compared to new OEM? Any premature failures known from the customers over time? The OEM mounts seem outrageously expensive on my 99 ES300. I don't think they are goners yet, even at 204k because of how conservatively I drive and accelerate, but I think they must have some wear. The strut torque mount only has a small-ish crack in it. No idea on the rest!
We need video how to replace front engine mount support for Aurion 2011, its different front Toyota Camry, none a single video in TH-cam you may be the first one if you do it.
Hello, after taking off the upper coolant hose is there air introduced into the system? Do u need to “burp” the system or just connect the hose and go?
I have a lexus es330 2004, which start to vibrate when I go above 40 miles/hour; I did tire balance and alignment, but it still the same issue (the whole car vibrate/shake) do you think this will solve the problem?
Hi Hardly Moving, I've enjoyed your videos a lot but when I see people getting sponsored by manufacturers it makes my trust alarms ding-a-ling-a-ling. I've never heard of Anchor and am in the market for a full set of mounts for my Camry but I see on Rockauto that Anchor is the cheapest mount there is. I usually mark off the cheapest and the most expensive and go from there but first after doing some research. What assurances can you give us that your videos are trustworthy once there is corporate backing? Don't get me wrong - I'd be thrilled to death if some corporation wanted to sponsor my videos but then you have to look at it from your subscriber's point of view since it has the potential to be nothing more than an infomercial. Hats off to you for your success but do you care to comment and perhaps provide some reassurance that we can trust the products you're endorsing?
I understand your concerns. But I would not be endorsing a product vendor unless I have already used their product at my own expense with good results. Moreover, your other product choices are relabeled parts from large retail parts stores (NAPA, AutoZone, AdvanceAuto, OReilly's, etc.) who you do not know where they got their parts from. It then becomes a parts quality crap shoot. For example, I spent 3 hours replacing a water pump on a V6 Toyota engine that failed from the get go. All AutoZone would do was refund me the cost of the part. Also had problems with their starters and alternators! The part manufacturer is "DuraLast"? Who know where their part(s) came from. From the lowest bid?
Fantastic, thank you. I was wondering the other day what method could I use to replace lower arms on my Lexus and it looks like this would work as I don't have access to an elevator.
I'm learning how to do some of these repairs on my 2008 rx400h. It looks like I will need to remove the radiator fans, but most of the hoses look like they're not in the way so it will not be too complicated. When you drain some coolant out of the system like this do you need to do anything other than pour it back into the radiator? Should you use new fluid so you don't get dust or debris in the radiator? Do you have any videos/resources about how to reset the coolant system if there are more steps required?
I'm assuming to attempting to replace the radiator? If so, watch this video. The concept is the same and should address all your questions: th-cam.com/video/UVvCMDj_AN4/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro I'm replacing the engine mounts. I haven't started yet but I'm trying to understand how much I have to deal with the radiator when removing the fan assembly to get to the front mount. The overflow tank is attached to the fan assembly so I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to keep coolant from coming out of the rest of the system when I remove that. Please forgive my ignorance if it's a fairly simple process as I'm dealing with the radiator for the first time like this.
Does the dogbone strut mount need a torque wrench or can it be hand tightened? Also do you need to jack the engine up to do just that one? Cause I’ve seen people do it without the jack, but want to know what you think. Let me know, thanks!!
Thank you for quick reply. I had an hour drive to family event and noticed those symptoms. I may need to do this. Merry Christmas and God bless you and your loved ones.
I experience a jerk/vibration when I shift the gear to reverse, I think this video should help fix it or what do you think. I also noticed my infotainment system restarts sometimes when I rev to 3000 / 4000 rpm while on idle. The car is es 350 07, pls your reply will b appreciated and I just subscribed.
I have a 2017 Sienna doing the same thing (big lurch P to R), jerking in low gears. The engine physically moves when shifting. I replaced all 4 mounts, still moves. Can't figure out why.
How can I get in contact with you about my 2000 Lexus ES300? I have a couple problems and you are the only one I see with very good knowledge about these cars. I really need some help
Do I need to loosen the front mount to take out the passenger side lower engine mount? My front mount is still good but the passenger side is bad and the less hassle for me to replace it the better
Yes. The top bolt for the front mount should be removed. Otherwise you won't be able to tilt the engine enough to remove the side mount. Also, don't forget to remove the top torque rod.
Question for Hardly Moving Productions... I've loosened my front motor mount before to perform a different part of maintenance on my 08 Avalon and I don't remember having to remove the radiator fan. I don't have a perfect memory, so if I'm wrong I'm wrong. That being said, 1) do you think it's absolutely necessary to remove that fan or could this possibly be done without doing that maybe loosen the nuts, etc. with a long extension from the top and then somehow removing it down below the car??? Just asking if you think that might be possible or not. Also, I've got plenty of super long long nose pliers to try to remove and reattach all the things that you did to the front mount... But I'm not sure if that would be able to be achieved gently enough with extra long needle nose pliers. 2) What's your opinion?
Hey I was changing the front motor mount and I accidentally broke off the top bolt. And I tried a few stores to look for it and I can’t seem to find any that fit. Any suggestions? HELP!!!
Hi , Notice you did not remove the axles for this job. With the 04-06 Siennas with the 3mz-fe engines , is it necessary to remove the axles to aid in lifting the engine to remove the mounts?
I actually meant just the axle nuts. I saw one poster doing this as he claims a little more engine movement is possible. I just replaced all the three lower mounts and did not remove the axle nuts at all. I installed oem mounts and wished that the bolts were removeable like the aftermarket ones. It wasn't a problem though. One thing I did like , among other things, is that the top of the bolts except the drivers side , were tapered for better insertion into the mounting hole on the respective brackets. To aid this though I wedged couple strips of wood ( paint stir stck) between the frame and bottom of the flange for better alignment. This was my first time doing engine mounts on my Sienna. Bottom nuts are torqued to 35 ft lbs and the uppers at 59 call it 60 ft/lbs. Regards
It's a bearing component. Either wheel bearing or CV axles. Swerve left to right at speeds over 40 mph and see which side increases in noise; swerve left places tension on the right bearing and visa versa. If no difference, could be the center bearing of your right split cv axle.
Hey I replaced the upper engine mount (also known as a wishbone mount) and about 4 months later it cracked again. Would it be safe to assume this is a sign of bad lower engine mounts ?
Hello, I have a low bass sound and vibration at idle in gear. Goes away in neutral. I just replaced the water pump and dog bone mount. Wondering if I tore the drivers side mount when lifting the engine to do the water pump. Does this sound like it could be the cause? Is there any way to test or isolate this mount? The minor noise and vibration is driving me mad.
When you place it in gear, that drops the idle speed from neutral due to the load on the engine. Just a guess, but could be transmission related or the engine needs a tune up (new plugs, air filter, throttle body cleaning or perhaps a loose or leaking vacuum hose).
I’m getting heavy vibration from the front end of the car when accelerating past 40. The vibration isn’t in the steering wheel. Only the front end. The dog bone needs to be replaced bcuz there is absolutely no rubber on the inside. It’s driving me crazy , I had done the brakes and rotors, thought maybe I had a stuck caliper but they were fine. Please help 😢
Can you tell me where u got all 4 mounts from I have a 2008 es350 but I can only find the 3 mounts the one in the front by the radiator I cant find only one I can find is from the dealer but I can't afford 250 bucks for the 1 mount and how is the anchor brand with mounts I've herd to stay away from them that they are trash but you can't believe everything u here did this brand hold up fine and last awhile
There are three mounts: front, left and right. The top is not a mount but rather a torque rod to prevent the engine from tilting forward during load or acceleration.
I know one person comment about the Anchor brand. What are your thoughts? I called another part store that deal with China brand and japanese brand mainly. I was curious about the China brand he selling call DEA. I would pay more for dealership but I think those be out of my price range(as you can tell I haven't call them yet probably Tuesday) I read everywhere people get mixed result with the Anchor brand. I am planning on buying a sets tomorrow and get it going. Please reply at your convenience.
I’m just taking the engine out of my rx330. Do I have to unbolt the mounts from the bottom or if I just unbolt the points that are attached to the powertrain will the engine and transaxle be free?
@@hardlymovingpro already popped the cv’s out. I have to cut the rusted studs / nuts on the Y split for cat bank 1 / the back header. I’m pulling it out through the top because I don’t have any way to safely drop it down. I’m thinking I should be able to pull it out with the back header and if not I can at least get some more space with the hoist to work on the back header/ cat bank 1 exhaust manifold, from the top side. I just have zero room to get enough torque to remove it. Also the heat shield nuts are rusted so I need to cut it off or hammer an extractor on.
@@hardlymovingpro one more thing. I was told I don’t need to remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear since I’m hoisting it out the top. Is this correct? I thought I had to because it’s listed step in the Haynes manual. I tried getting it out with a 3.5# mini sledge and 30” pry bar but was ineffective. So I’m hoping I don’t need to get an air hammer and can leave that.
I keep hearing a pop on the right side of my es350 after talking off from a stop. All control arms are ok. I assume it would be the right side mount? Are these all the mounts? Is there no rear mount‽
I'm happy you said that. I thought there was only one bad mount on my 2005 Avalon, but you just reassured me that it is best to change all of them at the same time. Thanks....love your video
Have a 2008 Lexus ES350. Transmission mount has pin hole 180* different from the mount ordered. Is there a way to rotate the mount pin to align? My pin hole is pretty well facing out not in like your video shows. TY
Could also be worn out CV axle bearings or bent axle shaft if under no load (coasting) the vibration disappears. Seen it happen a lot of Toyota / Lexus V6 FWD sedans, right passenger side.
I’m not gonna lie you made it look so easy that’s incredible
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro ofg guy f hi good cf
Hey man, I’m bout to have a kid and you just saved me thousand in labor today. I really appreciate you putting the video out.
Glad to hear it!
Amazing. How long did this take? I lost weight just from watching. Sheesh. I have a greater understanding as to why engine work is so freaking expensive. Great work sir!
Thanks! Around 2 hours with the right tools.
Australian Made Toyota Aurion has the same engine mounts (same engine) I used the same prcoedure shown in the video to change all my engine mounts, except that you dont have remove the radiator in the Aurion. Thank you, you earned a sub.
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for sharing!
Glad I found this comment. I’ll be having a crack at this job on my 06 Toyota Aurion also in the coming weeks. Good to know what I’m in for!
He always leaves at least 1 of the mounts connected to the engine.
2:50 Losen Front mount
3:19 Removes Top left Top Moving Control Rod
3:43 Passenger Side
5:33 Driver Side
7:32 Front Mount
9:03 Puts in bolts for Top Moving Control Rod
9:31 Go back and tighten up all bolts on the mounts and put it all back together again.
Good luck!
I also suggest having some good knee pads, as you are often down on 1-2 knees when doing this.
For the next time, I need to do this in +5 years: parts.olathetoyota
12372-0P010
12360-0P030
12362-0P051
12363-0P012
I love watching this guy work. Very efficient...great mechanic.
Thanks!
I agree. Without this guy’s expertly made videos I don’t think I would have had the confidence or insight to attempt an engine swap.
Excellent video, I've changed mounts in other vehicles, but was a little apprehensive in doing my 08 es350, but after seeing this I know i can handle it. Thank you brother!!
Glad it helped!
This is great stuff, keep up the tutorials, you're helping more people than you know!
Thanks! Will do!
Great video, really helped in prepping me for the job. My Chilton's manual for the car (07-12 Toyota Camry, Avalon and Lexus ES350) only said to remove the top bolts from each mount prior to lifting the engine.
Whatever works!
Great video, thank you!
You're correct, it took about 2 hours on the dot..
Car was an 07' ES 350. Front mount has no vacuum lines but does have 2 electrical plugs and a ground that was already cut.
One tip, be smart unlike me... watch when you're removed the fans.. the upper radiator tube is brittle and made of fiberglass and breaks easily 😅
You may want to consider replacing the radiator if the tube / hose port was brittle. It's plastic that with age and constant heat cycles begins to degrade. Look for hair line cranks in the plastic. That's a sign the radiator is on its last legs.
Hardly Moving making it look easy once again! I just hope the motor mount that has to be twisted goes as smooth for me and injury free... Thanks again.
You bet! And yes, the motor does move around when replacing these mounts; but you can shift it around.
Best motor mount replacement video replacement.. thank you for sharing your skills to us! :)
Glad it helped!
Thank God you have Toyota
I know!
Thank you for the video. I need to replace mine in my car and I've been looking at the Anchor brand. Can you tell us how are they holding up in comparison to the OEM? Thank you
Anchor is one of the better aftermarket brands out there.
Awesome Video, thank you! My son's 05' ES 330 needs all replaced. I plan to use this vid as my 'teacher' to do his. Thanks again!
You're welcome and good luck!
Thank you that was very helpful
No problem!
thanks for the vid! love having someone confirm suspicion and guide me along the way
You bet!
Great video. All in under 12 minutes so it should take me 12 days.
Thanks! Took me around 2.5 hours. Give yourself maybe 5.
Fantastic video. But to all you Toyota and Lexus owners, I can’t stress this enough - use OEM engine mounts. They are more expensive but if you watch a few TH-cam videos from Toyota master mechanics like car care nut, you will see that aftermarket engine mounts are no no.
Thanks for sharing!
Sir you’re an absolute pro 👍🏼
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro my car shake/vibrate so bad at any stoplight shake more aggressively when AC is on not matter if I put on nutural still vibrate I heard it it’s engine mount would reduce the vibrate or put on N ,, any idea what it could be , I changed spark plugs like 2 days ago thanks
Up to 2001 camry I4's have this problem as the car ages.
Marvelous calm calculated mechanics
Thanks!
Very interesting, Clear and clean Explanation.
Glad you liked it!
Great video as usual. What other good brands to you recommend from your experience
Thanks! Beck Arnley, DEA, Westar, SKP, FVP
Well done! I’ll be using this video when I change my mounts
Thanks!
Quality video and mechanic. Thanks!
You bet!
Very well done sir! Thank you for spending the time to make this video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this video!
You bet!
Do more Honda Civics on your early videos. All parts, replacements and fixes.. Specially the 2001-2005 variants which is lowly covered online. You'll have a subscriber and views boost, trust me you'll be million subs in 6 months.
th-cam.com/video/ArNsw83SgaM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/o9lQPGolL9Y/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/dv8aIshNoqY/w-d-xo.html
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Man, you look and sound like you know exactly what you're doing lol. Thank you!!! I can't wait until the day you do a timing belt on the Lexus V8 engine.
Thought I had a V8 job all lined up. Looks like I scared the customer away with the repair quote.
No.. Wait for the infamous Nissan Frontier Timing Belt..
This is an excellent video! I think I’ll give this a try. Question for you: I have a 2008 Lexus RX350 and when I gently accelerate and maintain my speed, I hear a chirping/squeaking noise from the engine bay/dashboard. But when I put it in neutral and step on the gas pedal in the same manner, I don’t hear and chirping squeaking. Would you say the engine and tranny mounts can cause the noise?
Thanks! Chirping/squeaking noise is cause by something rotating that's worn out. Could be an accessory belt, belt tensioner or idler pulley or anything that the belt rotates (i.e. power steering pump, ac compressor and alternator).
@@hardlymovingpro that’s what I figured too but the serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, radiator and thermostat were replaced a month ago. Only other thing I haven’t looked into is any exhaust leak.
@@hardlymovingpro my mech replaced the front and rear engine mounts and the tranny mount (all OEM) yesterday. Got rid of the squeaking
Another great video...however, doing this on a 190K mile V6 Camry I had to use the 2ft. breaker - battery impact got about 1/3 the way down then just expanded the stud from heat and stalled (17mm in-frame studs). I sprayed PB liberally but the problem is you can't get a wire wheel or hand brush in the frame rail openings to clean the rust off...so, the 17mm nut is effectively "cleaning" the threads on the studs as you go.. Its a B...an air impact would most likely zip them off but I am a jack stand DIY'er. My question is: can I re-use the 17mm stud nuts on a new set of OEM mounts I am ready to install? Toyota dealer doesn't stock them and added that they re-use them regardless. I watched all your 2GR-FE videos and they are great! Thanks
Before mounting on the new mounts, grease the studs and see how easy the 17mm nuts spin on. Also, if you have a metric tap and die set, you can clean up the nut's threads.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you. Going to the parts store to match up new ones. Also, I was not able to get the new top studs off the new OEM mounts prior to install - is there a trick? I had to go up pretty far with the floor jack to get them in, hope I didn't compress one too hard...great video's, great mechanic, thanks!
Good work, i would have done the lower arm bushes at the same time though!
Not a bad idea since the mount is in the way of the control bolts.
@@hardlymovingpro In your defense I have been changing the lower arm bushes on an RX400h today so its very fresh. Only difference between the two is you can't jack the engine up high enough in the 400h to make removing the engine mounts easy, and i'm in the UK so everything has about 100x more rust.
I love this thanks so much needed this
You bet!
I have to do one tomorrow..All four plus struts all around...
Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah.. I started tonight... Right out of the gate. I fight to get the front mount out. Then realize. They gave me the wrong part. As it has no vacuum port on it..
No more customers bring me the parts. As they always seem to never get the right ones for the year model they have. Now I got to go buy the right ones. And then charge them for it....
Question,
2008 Lexus ES350. My pin hole on transmission mount is facing to the outside . Can you rotate the mount appropriately 90* so it will line up. The one I ordered has pin hole to the inside?
Don't think so. Replacement part should dimensionally match the original.
How did you know the motor mounts were shot before removing them?
Details provided in the video's description.
Since u did that
You should replace the lower control arms both
If the control arm bushings have split, then yes, replace the control arms.
Thanks (in advance!)😅
How long would you say it'll take?
For me around 2 hours.
What do you think of those Anchor mounts? Inferior results compared to new OEM? Any premature failures known from the customers over time? The OEM mounts seem outrageously expensive on my 99 ES300. I don't think they are goners yet, even at 204k because of how conservatively I drive and accelerate, but I think they must have some wear. The strut torque mount only has a small-ish crack in it. No idea on the rest!
I've used anchor for years without issue
Next best thing to affordable non OEM.
Outstanding!
Glad you like it!
We need video how to replace front engine mount support for Aurion 2011, its different front Toyota Camry, none a single video in TH-cam you may be the first one if you do it.
Sorry. No Aurion vehicles in the USA.
He got some nice tools!
Thanks ... from years of accumulating the rights tools to make the job easier and go faster.
Great job!! and thank you for sharing out anchor-online, I check them out but wasn't able to buy from their website?
Thanks! Use their part number to do a internet search for vendors.
Look on Rock Auto
Parts included... what's a reasonable price range for this procedure?
Parts prices vary .... recommend you shop around. Labor under 2.5 hours x labor rate.
Hello, after taking off the upper coolant hose is there air introduced into the system? Do u need to “burp” the system or just connect the hose and go?
Just replenish coolant that was was lost with the hose removal into the fill cap opening.
Great job!
Thanks for the visit!
You use the same torque specs that I do!
Nothing like the torque from a high torque impact gun!
I have a lexus es330 2004, which start to vibrate when I go above 40 miles/hour; I did tire balance and alignment, but it still the same issue (the whole car vibrate/shake)
do you think this will solve the problem?
CV axle is bent or the bearings are shot; or the lower control arm bushings are broken or worn out.
How are the supports behaving to date? Regards.
No complaints to date.
Excellent, they are of good quality.
For the Torque mount, I would be able to just unbolt and replace, or would I have to support the engine?
No engine support needed
Thank you 🙏🏽
No problem 😊
Hi Hardly Moving, I've enjoyed your videos a lot but when I see people getting sponsored by manufacturers it makes my trust alarms ding-a-ling-a-ling. I've never heard of Anchor and am in the market for a full set of mounts for my Camry but I see on Rockauto that Anchor is the cheapest mount there is. I usually mark off the cheapest and the most expensive and go from there but first after doing some research. What assurances can you give us that your videos are trustworthy once there is corporate backing? Don't get me wrong - I'd be thrilled to death if some corporation wanted to sponsor my videos but then you have to look at it from your subscriber's point of view since it has the potential to be nothing more than an infomercial. Hats off to you for your success but do you care to comment and perhaps provide some reassurance that we can trust the products you're endorsing?
I understand your concerns. But I would not be endorsing a product vendor unless I have already used their product at my own expense with good results. Moreover, your other product choices are relabeled parts from large retail parts stores (NAPA, AutoZone, AdvanceAuto, OReilly's, etc.) who you do not know where they got their parts from. It then becomes a parts quality crap shoot. For example, I spent 3 hours replacing a water pump on a V6 Toyota engine that failed from the get go. All AutoZone would do was refund me the cost of the part. Also had problems with their starters and alternators! The part manufacturer is "DuraLast"? Who know where their part(s) came from. From the lowest bid?
Fantastic, thank you. I was wondering the other day what method could I use to replace lower arms on my Lexus and it looks like this would work as I don't have access to an elevator.
Glad it helped!
I'm learning how to do some of these repairs on my 2008 rx400h. It looks like I will need to remove the radiator fans, but most of the hoses look like they're not in the way so it will not be too complicated. When you drain some coolant out of the system like this do you need to do anything other than pour it back into the radiator? Should you use new fluid so you don't get dust or debris in the radiator? Do you have any videos/resources about how to reset the coolant system if there are more steps required?
I'm assuming to attempting to replace the radiator? If so, watch this video. The concept is the same and should address all your questions: th-cam.com/video/UVvCMDj_AN4/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro I'm replacing the engine mounts. I haven't started yet but I'm trying to understand how much I have to deal with the radiator when removing the fan assembly to get to the front mount. The overflow tank is attached to the fan assembly so I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to keep coolant from coming out of the rest of the system when I remove that. Please forgive my ignorance if it's a fairly simple process as I'm dealing with the radiator for the first time like this.
Thanks for that other video by the way.
You bet!
Does the dogbone strut mount need a torque wrench or can it be hand tightened? Also do you need to jack the engine up to do just that one? Cause I’ve seen people do it without the jack, but want to know what you think. Let me know, thanks!!
Don't need a torque wrench for the dogbone and you don't need to jack up the engine.
What does the electronics on the front mount actuallyl do?
Vacuum control to stiffen or dampen the mount
Big help
You bet!
Is there any way to figure out which engine mount is bad? I will change all of them eventually but kinda on a budget rn
The front mount takes the most stress IMHO.
It was very useful👍🇲🇽
Thanks!
Nice. What’s usually the cost to swap these mounts?
Cost of the mounts & around 2.5 hours labor (whatever the labor rate is in your area).
Thanks for the video , you have the link for all mounts ?
The video description details has the part numbers. From there, you can do a Amazon search for the parts for sale.
Does Anchor engine mount work well
I personally haven't had any problems with them; although someone posted here that they didn't like them.
Hello! Are the symptoms of bad mounts a clunking sound caused by lifting the pedal and then pressing the pedal?
That's a good indication of at least a bad front mount.
Thank you for quick reply. I had an hour drive to family event and noticed those symptoms. I may need to do this. Merry Christmas and God bless you and your loved ones.
Dogbone is upper Torque mount? Thought there was a smaller piece in your kit
Torque rod is commonly referred to as a dog bone and is up top.
@@hardlymovingpro What were this cars issues that led to mount replacement diagnosis?
I experience a jerk/vibration when I shift the gear to reverse, I think this video should help fix it or what do you think. I also noticed my infotainment system restarts sometimes when I rev to 3000 / 4000 rpm while on idle. The car is es 350 07, pls your reply will b appreciated and I just subscribed.
When was the last time you changed your transmission fluid?
I have a 2017 Sienna doing the same thing (big lurch P to R), jerking in low gears. The engine physically moves when shifting. I replaced all 4 mounts, still moves. Can't figure out why.
It need an alignment after you do this?
Nope
Are torque specs available? Or just "good-n-tight" ?
Good-n-tight.
How can I get in contact with you about my 2000 Lexus ES300? I have a couple problems and you are the only one I see with very good knowledge about these cars. I really need some help
Send me an email @ hardlymoving@gmail.com
Delantero, Anchor 9884 Soporte de motor (2007-2017) OE 12360-0P130 este no aplica para toyota camry 2grfe 2007, la base recta hidraulica si aplica
English please!
How long did those anchor mounts last? I hear they aren't built very well and it's just better to go OEM?
Haven't so far experienced premature product wear and failures using Anchor mounts. You may have problem with Ebay no name brand parts.
Do I need to loosen the front mount to take out the passenger side lower engine mount? My front mount is still good but the passenger side is bad and the less hassle for me to replace it the better
Yes. The top bolt for the front mount should be removed. Otherwise you won't be able to tilt the engine enough to remove the side mount. Also, don't forget to remove the top torque rod.
@@hardlymovingprook I thought so. Is there enough clearance to remove the bolt without removing the radiator fan or anything?
Question for Hardly Moving Productions... I've loosened my front motor mount before to perform a different part of maintenance on my 08 Avalon and I don't remember having to remove the radiator fan. I don't have a perfect memory, so if I'm wrong I'm wrong. That being said, 1) do you think it's absolutely necessary to remove that fan or could this possibly be done without doing that maybe loosen the nuts, etc. with a long extension from the top and then somehow removing it down below the car??? Just asking if you think that might be possible or not. Also, I've got plenty of super long long nose pliers to try to remove and reattach all the things that you did to the front mount... But I'm not sure if that would be able to be achieved gently enough with extra long needle nose pliers. 2) What's your opinion?
If the fan shroud is not in the way to get easy access to the mount and vacuum tubes, then leave the shroud in there.
The anchor online catalogue does not work.
You can always call their toll free number.
You don't need to remove anything from the cooling system to remove the front mount
Good luck with that.
@@hardlymovingpro Took me 30 minutes with a lift, same 2GR setup. Tight squeeze, but do-able
Hey I was changing the front motor mount and I accidentally broke off the top bolt. And I tried a few stores to look for it and I can’t seem to find any that fit. Any suggestions? HELP!!!
Get a replacement at a local auto salvage yard or lastly, the dealership.
Hi , Notice you did not remove the axles for this job. With the 04-06 Siennas with the 3mz-fe engines , is it necessary to remove the axles to aid in lifting the engine to remove the mounts?
The cv axle joints will move with the tilting of the engine and transmission and therefore need not be removed.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you
I actually meant just the axle nuts. I saw one poster doing this as he claims a little more engine movement is possible. I just replaced all the three lower mounts and did not remove the axle nuts at all. I installed oem mounts and wished that the bolts were removeable like the aftermarket ones. It wasn't a problem though. One thing I did like , among other things, is that the top of the bolts except the drivers side , were tapered for better insertion into the mounting hole on the respective brackets. To aid this though I wedged couple strips of wood ( paint stir stck) between the frame and bottom of the flange for better alignment. This was my first time doing engine mounts on my Sienna. Bottom nuts are torqued to 35 ft lbs and the uppers at 59 call it 60 ft/lbs. Regards
@@abyssalsoul6216 thanks for sharing your installation story!
Humming vibration noise felt under driver floor under light slow accleration Sienna 2009, 225k miles. Engine mounts or other suspension bearings?
It's a bearing component. Either wheel bearing or CV axles. Swerve left to right at speeds over 40 mph and see which side increases in noise; swerve left places tension on the right bearing and visa versa. If no difference, could be the center bearing of your right split cv axle.
How feasible is it to change the front mount from underneath the car ? (without taking all the intake/battery/fan cover off)
It would be tough ... if not feasible. I've tried different methods and what you see in the video is the most efficient ... IMHO.
Hey I replaced the upper engine mount (also known as a wishbone mount) and about 4 months later it cracked again. Would it be safe to assume this is a sign of bad lower engine mounts ?
Absolutely!
Hello, I have a low bass sound and vibration at idle in gear. Goes away in neutral. I just replaced the water pump and dog bone mount. Wondering if I tore the drivers side mount when lifting the engine to do the water pump. Does this sound like it could be the cause? Is there any way to test or isolate this mount? The minor noise and vibration is driving me mad.
When you place it in gear, that drops the idle speed from neutral due to the load on the engine. Just a guess, but could be transmission related or the engine needs a tune up (new plugs, air filter, throttle body cleaning or perhaps a loose or leaking vacuum hose).
Are all the mounts just rubber or is there oil in them?
Believe the front is oil filled.
Great video! Can you include the parts numbers of the mounts?
Sorry, Isaw all the part numbers in the description section. Thanks.
Part numbers vary with different models. Go to the Anchor Industries website to match the part(s) with your vehicle.
Is this similar to the mounts on a 2006 Lexus IS250???
Can't say.
Hi, are these mount OEM or after market part? If after market parts, how is their quality after you installed so long time?
The mounts used in this video is aftermarkets made by Anchor Industries. They're just about as good as OEM with respect to longevity and installation.
4days ago,My honest mechanic charged me $1000 for labor and 4 new mounts.
That's a little too much IMHO.
I was charged 1300 for 3 mounts and labor
1100 is the price for 4 mounts and labor in my case
I bought 4 new mounts from Lexus of Wesley Chapel, FL, for $550 no tax free shipping. Did it myself in the garage.
If I’m working on someone else’s car that’s what I’m charging to do it. If you have a problem with it do it yourself.
I’m getting heavy vibration from the front end of the car when accelerating past 40. The vibration isn’t in the steering wheel. Only the front end. The dog bone needs to be replaced bcuz there is absolutely no rubber on the inside. It’s driving me crazy , I had done the brakes and rotors, thought maybe I had a stuck caliper but they were fine. Please help 😢
This is on a 97 Lexus ES300
Could be a bent wheel, out-of-round tires or bent axle shaft.
@@hardlymovingprothank you for the fast reply. I’m going to go check the axle now, and get new tires 😅
Are these too stiff how have they held up
They're good relative to Toyota OEM parts if you're looking for an inexpensive alternative.
Is the 2GR-FXE in the 450h hybrid similar to this?
I think so.
very big like
Thanks for the visit!
Can you tell me where u got all 4 mounts from I have a 2008 es350 but I can only find the 3 mounts the one in the front by the radiator I cant find only one I can find is from the dealer but I can't afford 250 bucks for the 1 mount and how is the anchor brand with mounts I've herd to stay away from them that they are trash but you can't believe everything u here did this brand hold up fine and last awhile
There are three mounts: front, left and right. The top is not a mount but rather a torque rod to prevent the engine from tilting forward during load or acceleration.
No their is a 4th one rite by the radiator I thought their was just 3 to theirs actually 4 I have the same exact 3.5 motor v6
Yes theirs 3 ur rite but its like theirs 4 but anyway were did u get all 3 then cause I cant find the front one by the radiator anywerw
Can you send me the correct ft trq pound for yhe nuts used on camry v6 for those mounting?
Sorry ... don't have them. As shown in the video, I torque them down using my electric impact tools.
Do you really need to remove most of them parts in the front. I know you need to remove the intake but never thought of removing the fan etc.
Unless you remove the fan shroud, there won't be room to remove the front mount.
I know one person comment about the Anchor brand. What are your thoughts? I called another part store that deal with China brand and japanese brand mainly. I was curious about the China brand he selling call DEA.
I would pay more for dealership but I think those be out of my price range(as you can tell I haven't call them yet probably Tuesday) I read everywhere people get mixed result with the Anchor brand.
I am planning on buying a sets tomorrow and get it going. Please reply at your convenience.
Is that the control arm it goes in ?
Nope. The subframe.
I’m just taking the engine out of my rx330. Do I have to unbolt the mounts from the bottom or if I just unbolt the points that are attached to the powertrain will the engine and transaxle be free?
Attached to the powertrain. Also cv axles require removal.
@@hardlymovingpro already popped the cv’s out. I have to cut the rusted studs / nuts on the Y split for cat bank 1 / the back header. I’m pulling it out through the top because I don’t have any way to safely drop it down. I’m thinking I should be able to pull it out with the back header and if not I can at least get some more space with the hoist to work on the back header/ cat bank 1 exhaust manifold, from the top side. I just have zero room to get enough torque to remove it. Also the heat shield nuts are rusted so I need to cut it off or hammer an extractor on.
@@hardlymovingpro one more thing. I was told I don’t need to remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear since I’m hoisting it out the top. Is this correct? I thought I had to because it’s listed step in the Haynes manual. I tried getting it out with a 3.5# mini sledge and 30” pry bar but was ineffective. So I’m hoping I don’t need to get an air hammer and can leave that.
I keep hearing a pop on the right side of my es350 after talking off from a stop. All control arms are ok.
I assume it would be the right side mount? Are these all the mounts? Is there no rear mount‽
No rear mount. Best to replace all
I'm happy you said that. I thought there was only one bad mount on my 2005 Avalon, but you just reassured me that it is best to change all of them at the same time. Thanks....love your video
Isn't there a rear mount too?
On the older model yes. The new models no. Toyota setup large left and right mounts to compensate for the deleted rear.
Hi, I have a 2013 Venza V6 and mine also has the rear motor mount. How do I replace this mount?
Can't say since I haven't worked on the Venza.
@@hardlymovingpro oh okay, the highlander and rx350 have this rear mount too.
You have link for all the mounts ? On Amazon ? Or eBay ? Link please , I have same car , try to do all 4 too
The video description details has the part numbers. From there, you can do a Amazon search for the parts for sale.
Have a 2008 Lexus ES350.
Transmission mount has pin hole 180* different from the mount ordered. Is there a way to rotate the mount pin to align? My pin hole is pretty well facing out not in like your video shows.
TY
I would return the replacement and get one that looks like the originally you're replacing; unless you've got the mounts reversed.
Ty
I have a 2008 Lexus that vibrates when under power accelerating around 55-68 MPH (1600 rpm), does this sound lke motor mounts to you?
Could also be worn out CV axle bearings or bent axle shaft if under no load (coasting) the vibration disappears. Seen it happen a lot of Toyota / Lexus V6 FWD sedans, right passenger side.
@@hardlymovingpro How would I check for those potential issues?
How long did it take to do this job?
Around 2 hours