Engine & Transmission Mounts Replacement - Toyota Camry
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- This video will show you how to replace the engine and transmission mounts on a 2003 Toyota Camry with the 2AZ-FE I4 engine. The mount layout design for this Camry is also shared with the Toyota Avalon, Venza, Sienna, RAV4, Highlander and Lexus ES330 / ES350. Mount replacement on Toyota's 2GR-FE can be found here: • Toyota / Lexus Engine ... The four replacement mounts were part of a complete replacement kit. The replacement of these parts require no special tools outside of jack stands and a hydraulic jack.
Engine and transmission mounts will exhibit signs of wear when a clunking sound or rattling noise is noticed during acceleration from a dead stop (engine torque pulling on the front worn out mount), the torque rod bushings being broken or excessive vibration while driving the car. The front motor mount takes the most stress. Simple test: With the hood open and the engine running, have someone observe the engine (looking at it from the side of the car). Place the transmission in drive, use your left foot to apply the brakes (also use the parking brakes) and rev the engine with your right foot. If your partner sees the engine tilting up a lot during the rev up, the front mount is considered shot. It's normal for it to tilt a little but not a lot. If the front mount is really bad, the sides are probably stressed out as well to compensate for the worn out front mount. Also, worn mounts will place stress on your exhaust down pipe and could wear out its flex pipe resulting in exhaust leaks and noise.
Torque Specs:
1. Upper engine movement torque strut: 47 lbs
2. Driver side transmission mount nuts: 70 lbs
3. Passenger side lower motor mount nuts: 70 lbs
4. Front side motor mount bolt: 64 lbs
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Toyota Camry, Avalon, Lexus ES 300/330 (02-06) & Toyota Solara (02-08) Haynes Repair Manual (Does not include information specific to the 2005 and later 3.5L V6 engine.)
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Parts & Specialty Tools:
Anchor 9211 Front Engine Mount
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Anchor 9212 Engine Mount (Passenger Side)
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Anchor 9165 Transmission Mount
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Milwaukee Electric Tools 2558-20 Fuel Ratchet M12 Fuel 1/2" Ratchet (Tool Only)
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M18 Fuel Onekey 1/2" High Torque (1,400 lbs!) Impact Wrench
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This is probably the most straight to the point video I have ever seen on TH-cam
Thanks and appreciate your comment!
I also enjoyed it!
😊
Forget all those other videos about motor mounts this is the only one we need thank you guys.
Appreciate your post and comment!
How did go did it work?
You made it look so easy. I think everything is easier when you have the right tools and knowledge. Thanks
Thanks for your comment. Powered impact tools definitely saves a lot on time, effort and aggravation. Can't imagine doing these types of jobs without them.
Looks can be deceiving lol
Q
Eddie you can do this as well. If you have the tools and space it’s not that hard.
It is easy, just keeping going. 😊
Great job..very professional and to the point. I'm glad to see people like you are helping hard working folks save a few bucks.
Thanks 👍Yes...trying to help people save!
Bro u are a g, no bs talking about some unrelevant crap like these other guys do, just to the point in and out easy.
Thanks!
Just completed all 4 mounts. To get the front mount out of the engine compartment, I removed the transmission line inlet from the radiator. Took about 2 hrs total. Thanks again for the excellent video!!!!
2 hours? Good job and 👏 congrats!
This makes so much sense. I was stupid enough to try to do 1 at a time and it was a nightmare!!!! Great work and procedure!
Thanks!
Thank you so much I just replaced all mines and I did it by myself! Your video was a lot of help... I wish I had some power tools to make it easier and faster but I still got it done.
Good for you and glad it worked out for you!
Nice man how long did it take you? I think I have to go through this my self
Great demonstration. Slowed down on key points and fast forward on quick easy areas to avoid complications. Thanks again for helping everyone out. I know it did to me 👍
Thanks for you comments and support!
This was the best car repair video I have ever seen. Everything you need to know and no B's! Great job!!!
Thanks 👍
Okay the jack with the block of wood on it was pretty damn slick, man. I was expecting a chainfall and all kinds of stuff but WOW.
Easy solution when solution when dealing with cheapo hydraulic jack
He’s learned from the best lol Every mechanic does this 😊 When a lift isn’t available, they do the work on the ground and use this method.
The very best automotive do it yourself video I have ever seen on You Tube and the internet... This guy deserves a standing ovation... Perhaps a vacation to Maui... I wish this guy was close to me. I need a new best friend... Thank you very much for this fantastic, informative very detailed no nonsense video ever...
Thanks and appreciate your accolades! 😃
Thank you so much.
You saved me alot of money.
That's great! You should share your experience with why you fixed it yourself.
@@hardlymovingpro what if they new mounts dont come with the stud?
I had to replace the control arms on an 06 solara following your videos and the mounts took the longest to accomplish because of the lower clearance on the solara. The solution that worked was to lower the subframe some while jacking up the pan. Took me 2 days to accomplish this for the first time but now I learned something. Thanks again for your videos.
Excellent! Whatever works!
Kudos for getting right to it, and not spending five or ten minutes blabbing about what's ahead.
Thanks! Like to keep it short and simple.
The amount of information and how detailed you showed everything on the angling of the camera was amazing bro you definitely earned my sub! I love your content keep it up 🔥
Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks for putting this video together. It's clear enough to do the job. Just a couple of minor comments. It appears the torque strut you replaced was not original. The original torque strut should have had rubber covers on the front-most part of the strut. For those who are replacing this part, you should put the two covers from the original strut onto your replacement strut since they serve as a damper for the strut. If you don't, at times when the strut twists, it will hit against the metal mounting bracket. Those covers will ensure the metal-to-metal rubbing doesn't happen. Lastly, providing the torque specs would have been helpful. Overall though, this is a very helpful video. So, thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your critique!
Your video saved me alot of cash. Thank you much sir.
Glad it helped you out!
Great video straight to the point! I needed this information for getting to the bolt on control arm. Thanks
Thanks! And you're correct. By removing the side motor mount you have a path to the mounting bolts of the control arm.
This is what i came for as well.
This is excellent! I will use this as a guide for my 2009 Camry mount replacement.
Good luck with the repair and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
@@hardlymovingpro I have a questions.....would this procedure be identical to the 09 Camrys ....you know asking for a friend
I'd say yes
I was just looking to understand what these things are. Your video and the explanation was very good. Thanks for taking time to make this video and share it with all.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a bunch Boss. Your video is helping me to work on my car.
Glad it's helping you out!
Help support our channel by hitting the thumbs up and get notifications of new videos by subscribing ... thanks!
THANK YOU FOR THE UPLOAD DEFINITELY HELPS FOR A NEWBIE LIKE ME. THE VIDEO IS A STRAIGHTFORWARD
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for this video I changed all four mounts watching this video 👌🏼
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Wow. One of the best videos on here. Straight to the point. Right tools and techniques makes the job go so smooth. I have bad luck with cars. So it will be a week long project for me. Lol.
Thanks! Glad you found the video useful and good luck with the repair!
you made this look so easy jefe! thanks for showing us the short cut! Pretty amazing how you can save so much time doing this job! Thanks for sharing! I subbed!
Thanks! Glad you found the video useful.
WOW! 1 1/2 minutes in an I am all ready impressed! Sweeet move, taking off the wheels to reveal a clearer angle to that 1st mount. Definitely working "Smarter, not Harder". I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT 1.8 and could sure use some help. Not against doing the work myself, just need some mentor-ship from someone I can trust. Thank you so much for posting this. I am willing to pay you for a "consultation". Is there any way I could talk with you? .
Sure ... send me an email linked to my channel. And thanks for your post!
Thanks for putting the up. I used it to change mine out
No problem 👍
Had problem with the top one and watched till the end. Should move the whole bracket. Tqvm
Thanks for sharing.
just what I was after, straight to the point... okay here I go...
Thanks HMP
Glad you found it helpful!
Make more videos! That was absolutely perfect! Straight to the point
Thanks!
Now after watching your video I will definitely do after buying right tools thanks
Great 👍
Salute 🫡 I’m subscribed.
Hands down best how to video on motor mounts.Thank You Sir
I appreciate that and thanks for the sub!
Simple and clear all the steps and tips. ❤️
Glad you liked it!
I done this job many times but I think you did better job than me good job boy only your forget torque but you don’t need to torque because you know what you doing for the new people need to know the torque
Thanks for your comment and support!
My coworker selling an 2006 says the engine is jumping around and when you put the transmission into another gear makes a noise. So my little knowledge of mechanic work hoping it’s just the mounts. This video definitely is going to help me
Another way to test is to observe how high the engine lifts when you rev the engine with your foot on the brake. Don't stand in front of the car when doing this test.
@@hardlymovingpro really appreciate it
Great Video, nice camera angles. no wife in the background telling u dinner is ready, LOL, kids not poking u in the back for your attention,Lol, all kidding aside this video was very helpful. U made it look easy my friend great job!!
Thanks for your review and appreciate your post!
This is an excellent video, straight to the point.
Thanks!
Great video thank you for sharing this important information listening from Brownwood Texas
Thanks for watching!
Nice video. Gives me a great what I’m in for.
Super easy job. I also replaced all of mine. Cant go wrong with genuine OEM parts
Yes ... you're right ... super easy.
Hardly Moving Productions thats funny....how much was the total price for parts?
Prices can vary based on different parts suppliers and whether the parts were OEM, purchased as part of a kit or individually.
Can’t go wrong with genuine oem parts? Lol until you the price. Even with online discounts, over 500 for 5 pcs?
@@dankam830 OEM is a nice-to-have with a limited warranty period ... MOOG, on the other hand, gives you a lifetime warranty on most parts. Also, you can consider buying from GM's parts supplier to get a cheaper price (i.e. AC Delco ... they provide a lifetime warranty to the original owner of the part).
Nice video, you make it look so easy
Not too difficult to replace.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to change the timing chain and the video didn't really go over well on mount removal.
your timing chain went bad? i thought it was only the belts that went bad.
I follow on this process to change motor mounts of Camry Hybrid with pretty thanks.
You bet!
Great idea to remove studs, install mount, the re-attach studs.
Thanks!
Good job man that was awesome
Very good tutorial. Everything went in like a charm.
Thanks and congratulations!
I'm going to attempt this today thank you your video really helped me a lot
All the best!
Awesome job their young fella will be doing a set tomorrow thank you for the video.
You bet!
Thanks for this. It makes me less anxious about doing these myself !! Even the video description has great info too !
Thanks and good luck with the job!
This video is great! - o yea milwaukee team!
You gotta love those milwaukee impact tools!
Most jobs can be done if you have some background working with tools. My problem is I live in a condo and don’t have the room. Great to have a garage. Good job
I hear ya! Best you can do is work at a friend's house.
Great video right to the point!!!
Glad you liked it!
Detailed instructions, good job
Thanks!
if you close your eyes it sounds like bill murray explaining car repairs to you
Great video, needless to say anything else 👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video I’m going to knock this out this weekend. 👍
Good luck!
Thank you very much for your details video.
No problem and thanks for your comment and support!
Outstanding video great camera work---Jerry D
Glad you enjoyed it!
A good video. Personally, I’m not a fan of using the oil pan or transmission pan as a jacking point. There are other places you could use without the possibility of denting the pan. Just my opinion.
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video
Glad you liked it!
Where did you lift the engine with the block of of wood? Thanks for the video!
Under the oil pan
@@hardlymovingpro Is this the only location to lift it. I'm afraid oil pan might bend when I do mine?
@@IBO8Jaeger Using a wide wood block between the engine oil pan and the hydraulic jack distributes the support tension to prevent the pan from damage and bending inwards.
Thanks for sharing !
That was awesome! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Will do!
Excellent video...thank you! I have a 2005 ES 330
Good for you! ES330 is a great car.
no vibration with the aftermarket motor mounts?
No problems.
Got them in, your video helped a lot, thank you. was a pretty easy job and saved $500 or more?
Great news, congratulations and good for you!
@@hardlymovingpro and one more thing... what a difference new engine mounts make, I should have done it 30k miles ago. I guess I didn't realize how bad they really were.
@@aaronchandler2380 You're describing gradual degradation of parts until one day you conclude something is not right. Same thing happens with suspension components.
@@hardlymovingpro yes I agree, I think ill do the ball joints and control arms next.
@@aaronchandler2380 Don't forget the struts too.
Video made changing my mounts a breeze. The one thing that I couldn't understand tho. Is the driver side tranny mount that has the little pin that slides into the transmission. My part has the pin on the opposite side? How do you fix this problem? Wrong mount? I just changed them all except for that one. But I couldn't belive it.
If the pin doesn't match the old mount, then it's wrong.
And were done,,,, lol, very cool, well done good sir,,,,,,,
Or ... "Git er done!" as my anxious customers would say in the imperative.
The manual transmission Camry has these plus a 5th one in the lower left rear and it's the only one I have to change lol. Good video though.
Lower right rear*
Thanks for the info and sharing!
Great video, thankyou
Thanks for your comment!
7:38😏
Excellent video that applies to 4 cyl Highlander. Learning: 1. front mount is different, like a bell curve with a wheel in it. Remove plastic shielding underneath mount (expect some bolts to shear off); use 14mm deep hex socket to break 2 bottom nuts (anything else will break or be too shallow) or quality offset. 2. toyota scissor jack on 2 bricks placed on housing behind trans pan makes driver's side mount removal easy without removing top stud, 3. if like me you do the control arm, a little lift from a jack with plywood under the rotor helps create space to align it, 4. it took 6 hrs with no power tools in 90 deg heat with breaks for water and to be thankful.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Great video, full.....thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Very helpful video. Thanks a lot.
You bet!
Nice video man. !!!!
Glad you liked it!
Would have liked to see clearer indication of exactly where to place the wooden block to jack up the engine.
Place a wood block of equal or greater dimension of the base of the oil pan ... then position the hydraulic jack in the middle of the wood block to support the engine.
@@hardlymovingpro I have the same question. I can see that you placed the wood block under the engine oil pan. Are there other places, because I am scared to place the jack under the oil or transmission pan. The metal of both pans are so thing that I am afraid the pan might be at least bent , if not broken.
I have replaced the ATF filter a dozens of time and know how fragile is the pan . Can not imagine how it could support the weight of the engine.
I need to rise the engine 1-2 inches to get access to the one transmission 10 mm bolt that is blocked by sub-frame in lexus rx 350.
I am ready for the job, only one thing keeps me holding - the right and save spot for the jack to lift a bit the engine and transmission block.
I will appreciate your answer. Other than that your video is amazing. Everything is clear and focused . One of the best video for the job. Thank you.
@@stanislav9608 the point is to avoid placing force on one focal point on the pan. A wood block distributes the lifting force to prevent the pan from bending inward
Great video just needed the size of every bolt
Mostly 14, 17 & 19 mm.
Milwaukee team all the way!
Great video, thanks for speeding up the unnecessary parts! Do any of these bolts need to be torqued to specific specs?
Thanks! Not really. I use my impact tools to torque them down. They won't come loose.
Thanks! Very helpful show.
Glad it was helpful!
So is there any way to know if only one or two is bad not all of them . what's the way to know an diagnose the bad engine mount... thank you so much
The front motor mount takes the most stress. With the hood open and the engine running, have someone observe the engine (looking at it from the side of the car). Place the transmission in drive, use your left foot to apply the brakes (also use the parking brakes) and rev the engine with your right foot. If your partner sees the engine tilting up a lot during the rev up, the front mount is considered shot. It's normal for it to tilt a little but not a lot. If the front mount is really bad, the sides are probably stressed out as well to compensate for the worn out front mount.
Thanks for the video. Where do you get the bolt use to guide the engine hole when you put the new mount in and lower the engine. What it the size of the bolt. Thanks.
If you're referring to the front mount (by the radiator), keep the lower mount's studs loose while slowly lowering the engine onto the new mount. When low enough, screw in the upper mount's bolt then let the engine completely rest on the mount and tighten everything up.
This video is brilliant 💯✔👌👌👌... Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
@@hardlymovingpro No bs , and straight to point 💯👌 thx
Good instructions and video. Do these principles and instructions apply for Honda vehicles? Thanks
Yes they do.
Again sir you are awesome and thank you! A question though, where are the jackpoints on the passenger and driver side? I see some lifting the engine or trans on the oil pan or trans pan but I think you are jacking on different points. I think I missed where you put the wood blocks on. Thanks.
The best points to install the jack stands is on the rail that runs along both side of the car's chassis. The lifting of the engine and transmission via the oil pans is to tilt the engine or trans high enough to remove the mounts.
Nice video!!!...But, it looks like only one out the 4 motor mounts were defective...the one on top of the engine ...so, why change all 4?
Noisy going over bumpy roads.
@Hardly Moving Productions - the customer feedbacks on Anchor mounts are not that good. Actually all after market mounts I've been searching are same. Want to hear your opinion about the brands and how this one worked for you ? Thanks
Haven't had problems with Anchor except for paint on stud and bolt threads.
Now I need an alignment after taking off and putting back old but good mounts.
Motor mounts shouldn't alter the alignment.
@@hardlymovingpro When I changed an engine mount on my ford fusion, I did not need an alignment. However, my Camry pulled to left immediately after I put back the three old engine mounts. Again, none of them was bad after 164k miles and 21 years. I trusted them more than the new Anchor ones so I put the old ones back.
Great video, how did you know to replace them? Are there any visual signs?
Thanks for your comment. Some of the symptoms are the engine lifting up during initial acceleration closing a pause in the car moving forward. If the side mounts or shot, you'll hear thumping noises coming from the engine compartment when riding over rough surfaces.
Should we change everything. @ once or we can change one @ the Time
Better to replace everything. If one component has failed, the others may be marginal and may be close to failure.
U have 4 mounts but only list 3 for purchase on your description
4th is the torque rod.
Just subscribed the channel. Thanks for the video
You bet!
عاشت ايدك يامبدع🙏👍
Yup I think he makes awesome videos too👍👍.
how much time do you think that took....minus the actual video making process of course. thank you in advance. great work.
Around 2 hours for me.
Great video. Thankyou 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video 🙏 thank you
You bet!
Great tutorial!
Thank you! Cheers!
This video is fire
Thanks!
How long will this job take for a beginner?
Best guess with the right tools ... 3 hours.
Left and right mount took me an hour an a-half combined, front mount took 3. Dog bone took about 3 minutes.
@@tonyisgonetomorrow lets just say 5 hours. Daam. Thank you.
did i see this right, did you jack it up by the oil pan???
That's right. The pan can take it without distorting if you distribute the lift weight.
About change front mount thanks man
No problem 👍