What happened to our Rav4 Engine | TEARDOWN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- Everything was going well on our trip to the dyno, until something let go...
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Gotta put the video on pause while I go change my oil ....
😂
Gotta put my oil change on pause to watch a video! 😅
oil change never herd of it
Buy a Renault it'll leak so much there's no point changing it just top it up and slap a filter on every now and again
Me too
Like kids with a new set of lego, hands everywhere 😂
Shit its bad
hands coming in from every direction to disassemble a small motor. how many redbulls did you all have. even the talk was at 2x speed :P
Their enthusiasm for this engine was legendary lol
Red bull, nose beers, who's counting..
Gotta to be from the Sepang Kei Car 24 hours race experience when every guy from neighbouring pit jumped in the gearbox swap😅
All the mates ahoy! 😂🤝
Isaac is a weapon, he runs at 150% speed all the time, no performance enhancers required :)
This strangely looked like med students disecting their first cadaver
Thinking exactly that
You know what this means? Time for a no budget big power build. Get two hybrid 2AZ-FXE intake cams re-timed to performance lobe centerlines to make a cheapo race cam motor, some cheap forged rods and pistons, maybe epoxy the deck if you're feeling spicy, then Rav4 to the moon.
1000% this!
I would love to see a Frankenstein motor works crossover with MCM
Love this idea! haha at first i read that as unlimited budget, not literally no budget. that would be fun! sloppy mechanics style budget "built" motor!
That's 2AR-FXE, the successor to the 2AZ which they have.
I've seen no documentation if it is possible to do the cam swap with 2AZ -FXE as which can be done with the 2AR-FXE.
If any body has any info on the 2AZ-FXE i would love to see it.
There is one at my local pick a part so guess ill have to find out me self.
Oh and love Frankenstein motor works differently check out marc's works great stuff.
@@clarkeyeye9296 You're right I'm just speculating, but I believe the 1NZ also can do the same thing, so I think it'd likely work the same as the others
How appropriate that this was for the oils campaign
4:03 not a cam sensor, it’s a vvti solenoid, if it’s full of sludge then there is no oil to the vvti controller then the cam leaves the chat 😂😂
Indeed, and the amount of sludge in the ocv was a clear sign that it was blocked there.
Yeah it was hard to watch that and many of the other conclusions without yelling at the tv 😂
Yep got to clean the vvti screen once in a while
Absolutely not a waste, love seeing things like this! I watch I Do Cars engine teardowns, and just seeing them is always a cool thing.
The fact you've got your buddies with you and you're all putting in your input and stuff was super cool to see!
I'd love to get somewhere to disassemble and rebuild an engine some day. Cheers for sharing with us Marty (and bois). :D
i reckon most of that engine is salvageable. the crank is probably fine, you can check the rods for roundness and size. the head would be ok, just need a new intake camshaft. it might be a good block to keep around if you plan on keeping the rav just in case the new wrecker engine grenades itself too.
Stage 2 performance cams?
Yeah how long ago was this Rav4 project because the Brumby is in the background?
Thinking the same👀
Yeah didn't the Brumby go to a new home ?
Yeah the OIL advert is coming out soon, I think, and it was shot when the RAV went to Qld - Oil Advert takes time to edit ; so it is all many months ago.
Probably after the TopGear shoots while TG was in post, but before the TG promo appearances and interviews started.
Dyno tune was in March
That sludge...yikes. wouldn't be surprised the oil change made it worse, unlocking the sludge and blocking the oil passages.
Some mechanics recommend not using oil flush for that reason, especially if the car hasn't been looked after. All the crud that's been holding to the engine walls gets lose and blocks everything up.
You're better doing 3000km oil changes for a while instead.
I put synthetic in a old engine and discovered the valve covers had a 1/4" gap in the gasket filled w cooked oil.
@@poochey1 Exactly. That's why I'm not a big fan of flushing products. I would prefer a soft flushing process, doing multiple oil changes in a short time span, and then use a good synthetic oil.
That piston movement within the bore isnt an issue, its just the piston moving within the piston ring clearances.
Marty should know about piston slap 😂
@@SHANDEE2 that's loose as a goose my man 👍
@@scoobysean555 you would've thought so, right? I listen to it every cold start for about a minute or two on my half a million km Volvo B230F. Very short stroke, lots of engine time but built to survive the apocalypse. I'm glad mine is still tight enough to stop piston slapping once it's warming up but I've heard of engines running for another 200.000 k's and up while piston slapping like mad all day long.
Nah, that's too loose. It's not horrible but it's getting there.
@bigmuz_pilot it's not good but I doubt it would cause a noise or oil consumption
The best teardown vid I've seen for ages.
Cheers 🙂 🍺
All the lads working like a well oiled machine.
Mmm wroom dadyy 😂😂
5:04 IN THE BIN
11:32 Bin Job for the win.
Cheers fellas, keeping me entertained whilst my flight out of Paris is delayed.
2:52 I love how he’s taking his time, numbering the buckets, so they all go back in the same place afterwards…
Why bother when it was always going IN THE BIN...
I noted that too. Just good habits I suppose.
@@noremacbeez why waste the time stripping it, to find out what failed, if it’s just going IN THE BIN?
@@tom6493 *content*
@tom6493 Content for starters and to see what actually failed and maybe prevent it from happening again.
nothing like a good tear down! was waiting for this.
I love forensics, this was great, thanks Marty and team
Love the Brumby in the background!! :D
My Mini has been in storage for 7 months... BRB, going to do an oil change real quick.
Good work team. Appreciate the detail
Man, that was awesome. That late night garage vibe is what we want to see.
Do more of that raw, unedited stuff. Looking forward to.
Cheers!
Best disassembly video I've seen in a long time. Salutations
Excellent video, I have been watching, worth recommending
Rattlin' like a diesel
5:05 you would expect some1 with so much bin throwing experience to make that..
When I get a "new to me" used car, I like to change the oil over and over until it comes out clean. Some cars only takes 2 or 3 changes. Some cars take 7 or 8 or more. You don't have to drive that far either. 50 to 100 miles is plenty of time for the new oil to soak up as much sludge and crap as it can hold before you drain it out and replace it. When I did this on my old matrix I finally got the engine so clean after 7 or 8 changes and 100 miles on each, that when I checked the final oil I put in it I could hardly tell it was on the stick it was so clean, I seriously thought I had no oil for a minute haha. I highly recommend this though. I don't think many people know that you can totally clean a sludged engine just by changing the oil back to back until it comes out clean.
I was wondering about this myself if an engine in this state could be saved by flyshing it.
Do you ever use special engine flush products?
Before the first flush, I warm it up, then throw a bottle of liqui-moly engine flush plus in it (supercheap has it) and idle it for fifteen minutes, then drop the old oil. I'll use cheap 10w40 to flush it a few times then use the grade of oil I'm going to use goes in with a bottle of liqui-moly cera-tec (again from supercheap.) For old engines (200,000km +) I'll spend the extra $20 and splash out for the liqui-moly high mileage Engine Detox instead of the engine flush plus.
You can use synthetic oil as well to help break up and remove the sludge. After 500 miles the majority of the sludge is gone. Use conventional oil to get ride of the rest.
@@FrankSmit-rf4bg No I don't, because normal oil already has detergents and cleaners in it. And they work great, but it can only hold so much dirt, so you just got to keep changing til its clean. I do know that water injection in the intake will clean the carbon out of your valves and piston faces. (improves mileage and power too..)
Anyone who’s reading this comment section check out the Motor Oil Geek video on oil additives.
Also use fuel additives(injector cleaner, redex etc)if you want to keep your injectors and fuel system clean
Super interesting, ty!
After the "Dyno Disaster" i was patiently waiting for this lol. Not the bearing I thought shat the bed but jeez that's sludgy
This vlog was alot of fun watching all the guys work together. Looked like they were having fun. Were kababs provided?
Its really a joy to watch smart people doing something that interests them. Spinning spanners with mates is one thing, but great brains there too.
This is why I love mcm even behind the scenes no egos, no bullshit, just a bunch of dudes who love cars and messing with them
Isaac, what a legend. Love how he's always in a rush when he speaks!
This is so good watching the boys go through it all. Just what super garage was designed for! I spy the brumby build
I wish I had this many friends into tinkering, a night wrenching with tons of friends who know their way around tools sounds like an insane good time !
Regular maintenance is key. Also caring about the vehicle you drive, it’s amazing how many people buy a car and do nothing to it but out fuel in it, drive 100k to major failure. No oil changes, pretty much nothing, then mad that it didn’t go 1 million miles
These are very interesting. always wonder what causes failures, so identifying that is great!
Service your cars people, even if it’s a Camry.
Marty I have to say you have a stellar group of friends!👍
That's why I pride myself to make sure my car serviced every time it needs it.
I have torn apart a couple of Lada 2101-2107 engines, most of them look even worse than this one, because back in the day they had no good oil, so ran M10 oil. But the engine is so simple and designed with large gaps for bad oil to flow, so it works like this for pretty much the whole life of the car. Oh and nowadays we don't have thick oils, so pour 15-w40 and the engine is not happy. It likes 15w-50 and still has low oil pressure. They fixed the issue on their newer engines like the 2108,2109 and the Niva.
Good job Marty Friends Fixing the Engine Well done👏👏👏👏👏👏
Ah nice 👍🏽 waiting for the X-ray video 👍🏽👍🏽
The Brumby is back for warranty issues...!! Ha ha.. Love your work guys... Now i know why you guys are in shorts...!
It's amazing that engine was running just fine up until the dyno.
The UK is done for engine tuning now. New cars to be fitted with speed limit governing software, So handling is all we have left. Wont be long before all cars have a box telling your story on board.
yeah wow, that is up there. i pulled a motor that sat for 10 years and prior had no love and it looked like this.
Typical weekend with the boys:
1. Either you do nothing and chill, or
2. You do a lot of work just to get a question answered.
They went for #2 😂
My Dads old work truck 4.3 chevy V6 didn't get many oil changes. I assume it looks like that. Had a few leaks but it was self sealing and self rust proofing. It still ran mostly fine, got it up to 430k miles and I was supposed to get my license but didn't and we got a new truck. So the old one got parked and the frame got rotted some then it wasn't fit to drive anymore.
That motor looks rebuildable. Parts cleaner, like one of the big steam ones. Then flush out your oil passages I'd imagine. Probably worth doing since its a toss up as to if you're going to get one from a wrecker thats been maintained well.
Oil and engine flush with BG kit. Every year. Got almost 400k 3.0 TDI and still strong
I imagine that's how Mighty Forensic Dissections looks like when they get an interesting case. All the mates gather round and start poking around and throwing parts IN THE BIN.
i have a G13bb engine from my 2000 jimny that this was going to happen to, i caught it before and now i am going over everything in there
Ill be doing this sometime in the next few months. Retiring my Lancer/daily either when i get a replacement car or once rego runs out. Car has 441,000kms and the motor is starting to make some unwanted noises (timing chain sounds), and oil hand some sparkles in it on the last oil change. So ill be pulling the motor to see what condition its in.
Can say, heavy traffic has not been friendly to it in last few years.
Well you were right about the top end noise. These engines are kind of known for sludge if you try to do 10-15k mile oil change intervals with synthetic. I did 5k changes with regular oil and never had anything more than a gold colour under the valve cover.
Balance shaft delete is pretty common. I did it with all my 4G63 motors. Was rougher for sure but I wasn't looking for comfort.
Check out another channel on youtube called "I Do Cars"... it's a guy in Missouri USA who owns a salvage yard (wreckers to you guys) and his whole thing is tearing down blown up engines to see why they failed. Some of the failures are catastrophic others are like the RAV's engine... it's a pretty interesting look into why and how engines blow up. He also does videos on how the salvage business works. In most cases, the engine failures are caused by neglect... lack of oil changes.
That doesn’t need to go in the bin. It’s rebuildable.
Oh what a feeling
It amazes me that we still are making engines more and more complicated. Maybe UX/UI designers should take over the business.
Let me just ask what credentials you have in internal combustion engine design and engineering that gives you the confidence to criticise their work?
I'm guessing that the car is for the SuperCheap Auto 2024 oil commercial, so the message is on point. 😉
Brumby in the background, thought it was auctioned off ages ago
Thats so funny more and more people turning up to investigate as the video goes on.
Tip of you're unsure of an engines history is to run liquid moly oils cleaner with cheap oil a few times through the engine. You can tell from the drained oil how dirty the engine is and if it needs several flushes it can mean a manual inspection and clean plus some repairs may be needed.
IN THE BIN! sorry I got excited
Interesting tear down, a classic example of neglect! Most of this bearing damage would have occurred before you guys got your hands on it - the extra bearing load would've been the last nail in the coffin.
Though, the piston rock is normal. It's a cold engine and everything that moves needs clearance. Even a piston with as little as .001 clearance will rock a surprising amount. This 'rock' is exaggerated from the piston skirts being barrel shaped. This very normal and necessary movement is often misconstrued with a worn piston or cylinder.
That hole in the rod isn't oil supply to the bearing - that's the cylinder wall squirter, which will be aimed at the thrust side of the piston skirt & cylinder wall (normally to the left looking from the front). The feed to the rod rather comes from the main journals, into the crank pin and out into the rod bearing. The oil hole that's blocked with bearing material didn't cause the bearing failure, but rather the bearing failure has simply blocked the cylinder wall squirter.
Look up BG dynamic engine restoration. It will clean out all sludge and galleries. Worth doing on any second hand engine you fit to ensure that oil flow can be as good as the pump can drive it. Of course excessive wear caused by previous blockages will still exist but pressure and flow can be as good as the existing components can allow.
I like that Mech. Stig is showing his face on the channel more lately!
This is a good excuse to build it and then Send It Marty lol
The Brumby giveaway car really shows the time lag between filming this video and waiting until the release of the Supercheap Auto commercial. A classic example of hurry up and wait
Very informative, Marty Bush Science Guy
Marty "Its a Bin Job"
Me: "We Want a Built 2AZ!!!"
Would love to see Issac on the channel more (or his own if he has one). He seems to know his ass from his elbow in this kind of stuff!
Love an episode with Issac
@6:30 that is the counter balance shaft assembly, the phenolic gear (not plastic)will break apart and stop up the oil pickup tube...
Nice teardown video. Now I just need the rebuild video, so I can get my Rav4 back on the road xD
Nah, just kidding. Hope you guys will fix this engine though. Love watching videos when people tear down these everyday car engines to find the problem, and then rebuild them :D
Freshen up💫💥💯🔥
Now you's can create a sculpture out of the parts! xD hahaha
I think Marty had a sneaking suspicion when he swapped covers. He seemed more nervous than usual on the dyno.
Got to love Isaac.... I'm going to go and change the strings on my guitar and lower the bridge
I've purchased a few used cars over the years, and I always baby the vehicle until after I do an oil change with a shot of Seafoam in the crank case, and then a second oil change to get the previous owner's sludge out. After that, the oil stays pretty clean and the vehicle runs well. I don't understand why you would try to get more power out of this motor when you haven't done anything to check the state of the motor, or even do a flush of the oiling system. At the very least, you should have done an oil change.
I think the 2AR-FE is a step up from the 2AZ-FE and more akin to Toyota's K engine. It's a shame that they didn't implement 2ZZ-GE's valve lift in those engines, that'd be sick.
Basically if you want to make N/A power, the 2AR is a better motor due to a much better flowing head. But if you're running boost, the 2AZ is IMO the better pick, because they're cheaper, they have more aftermarket support, and both the 2AZ and 2AR max at the same ~400whp if you want any longevity out of them.
@@K31TH3R sounds legit.
Run diesel oil in an unknown engine. It has MUCH stronger cleaning agents in it and can help clean out old sludge. Change after a week.
BTW, diesel oil can also free up and old/marginal manual transmission. Same process. Only run for a few days, then put gear oil back in.
meeting of the minds!!!
made me go change the oil in my xr6t =D
I work at a pizza shop as a driver, the Rav GTR 34 would make an awesome delivery car!
I'm happy that I change my oil regulary, far within spec 😆 the spec says 30k km for my VW Passat TDi, but I change it at around 20k km, which means I change oil twice a year 😬
Love your channel, i blew my volvo engine too. Yall made me feel beyter. Thanks!😊
I bent all the rods on a 2001 Volvo S80 that I bought used back in 2007. A local dealership told me the timing belt was changed before I bought it. It wasn't. It hit 78k and it broke. I was so pissed as it could easily have been prevented. I loved that car.
Redblock or whiteblock?
@joe_ferreira I had to stop the video midway with a sick feeling in my gut about a car I've just purchased.
I was shown a receipt written up 2 days before I picked up the car that shows a belt was "replaced" along with the water pump on my focus xr5.
Being a European built car, naturally getting any work done on these is quite expensive here in Australia and so best I can do for now is take it to my mechanic for a priority list of things needing to be done to her and knock them off one by one.
@@Mr83rt Not familiar with them in Ford guise but in the Volvos it's not too hard to pull the timing cover and give a visual inspection of the belt and pump. If it's a receipt from a real shop though I wouldn't worry about the belt too much.
Generally those whiteblocks are quite good as long as you keep the oil changed. On my Volvos the electrical wiring to the coils under the plastic cover up top often loses its insulation. I just taped mine up but you can buy new wiring pigtails too.
PCV system is probably due for a change if you can't find any records of when it was last done. That will push oil out past all the engine seals if it gets plugged up.
I've had the balance shaft phenolic gear let go on my 2AZ, after a cracked radiator caused overheating and I tried limping it back home..$2000 later my JDM replacement is a rattler upon startup but after 20 seconds it is perfect. Never gonna be a power house but reliability is my goal. It hits redline without issue and doesn't burn oil so I'm sorta satisfied.
Regular oil changes are key. i changed oil pans and valve cover so i had a chance to inspect the internal. No sludge for me. I'm curious about making real power tho, so carry on.
sounds like vvti gear has gone bad mate
Maintenance schedulle are only the big lines. The manufacturer is unable to predict if you are going to do only very short trips, or how you are going to drive your car. I've always followed the maintenance schedule, to realize it wasnt enough for my use. Now when i check the oil level, i also check how the oil look like, And 4 times more oil replacement than what was asked for ( it's cheap and easy to do, not that much a problem). Just to say, sometimes it's not just bad care about an engine, it can be also manufacturer recommendations, that in some uses, are not enough. Check often you oil, and any fluid in your car. Not only the levels, but also how they look and smell. If you start to care cause you ear an odd sound, the engine have already suffered. Well, i've learned that the rough way, so i was willing to share my 2 cent
exact thing that happened to my engine. Toyota 1zz. Openly admit to poor maintenance. Mine happened at 185k miles. Car leaked and burned more then I could ever change. So it was just a matter of time before low oil level and heat caught up with it.
The V6 also fits the rav4. Would be cool to build up one of those.
Get ya mates round, have an engine tear down party 🤘 Yes, love it.
"No windows in the block" lol 🤭
Thats a lot of cust lol.
Aah $50 won't cover. It's more likely $100 and a $30 filter. Still sound advice. I love you guys.
I rebuilt a 2az-fe for a Scion Tc was not cheap even going with some chinese parts the ticket is put the gen1 intake cam in it and the gen3 rav4 exhaust cam it has some chop and really wakes one up
so clean the block and a few new parts and it will be fine still work I dont think it should go to the bin.
FYI ... I deleted the balancing shaft on my 2012 Mazdaspeed3/MPS3 and it's not as bad/rough as people says. I get quicker engine respond. It's been 4 years and 60,000km since the delete. OEM driver+passenger engine mount, only the gearbox mount is solid.
I had a GH Sigma 2.6 litre that we did and people do the same thing to. The motor was balanced during the rebuild but no issues from removing the balance shaft.
I had mine done. Same engine.... 2az fe. vibration was suuuuuper bad in mid 3k rpm. Like my palms felt weird after a long drive holding the vibrating steering wheel. No it wasnt an alignment issue. Same vibration occured while stopped and revved. Broke a ringland so only after 500 miles i have to rebuild it again with different pistons but this time i told them to rebalance the whole thing with flywheel and everything on. they said it balanced just fine but still waiting to get my engine back
@@CSOCSO My con rod snapped on piston no 4 at 80,000km, punched a hole through my block. Got a blank block and rebuild it to take 500hp(just incase I need it) but in reality I tuned it to 310hp with 100 octane @ 1.25bar on stock K04 turbo. Oil starvation on cylinder no 4 was the cause, so I delete it and can't hardly feel any vibration at idle. Solid rear mounts also cure the torque steer with 235/40/18 tyres.
Hope all goes well with your build
IN THE BIN!