I have replaced 100-120 of these HEMI engines now & the one thing I see the MOST is Police, government & company cars that IDLE for 6 to 8 hrs per day. I was actually sued by one company for their engine failures & upon court date I had accumulated 1000s of pages of court cases & DODGES own internal emails to Prove it is DEFINETLY a MANUFACTURES problem & DODGE was even questioning themselves if they should assume responsibility when supplying FLEET vehicles. I won the case & won a counter suit for slandering my business by pointing the finger at me.
Had to replace one of these a couple years ago at the shop. Called 3 engine rebuild shops, and they all told me they won't do them. They are junk and too much of a liability. Customer had to get one from dodge.
@@corbinschad1 not anymore of a liability than GM V8s , it's the design with the cam location away from oil splash lubrication. But then again the Direct Injection engines are having lots of issues as well, so ultimately it shows if you slack on maintenance, these new engines aren't build to take the abuse.
@@DL101ca you are 100% correct on the maintenance. In my experience, Ford is the most sensitive to maintenance needs. And yes, the GM LT engines suck. I will never buy another GM truck newer than 2013.
@@DL101camodern V8 engines don’t rely on splash lubrication for the cam. The cam isn’t even exposed to the crank in a hemi or LS. It’s poor materials and manufacturing of the lifters. Plus NO engine lasts being idled all day, nor do older non roller lifters and cams last forever either.
I just had a customer come to me with a 6.4L hemi engine on a 2018 RAM 2500 w/ only 105,000 miles that had a loud ticking noise and a constant #8 misfire (60 psi compression measured on #8). I diagnosed it as a camshaft/lifter failure on the #8 cylinder and was stuck trying to decide on quoting just a camshaft and lifter replacement or telling him that the engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced. A lot of folks on TH-cam are just replacing the camshaft and lifters, but I came across Eric's teardown video above and I ultimately decided to inform the customer that the engine needed to be rebuilt or replaced. My customer elected for the rebuild and I have since removed and disassembled the engine. My findings were identical to what was shown in this video: the oil pan was completely full of metal debris, the main bearings were trashed, and the cam lobe was severely worn. The crankshaft journals were lightly scored and I will be sending it into the machine shop next week to see if my guy can polish the journals, otherwise he is going to grind it for the 0.010 or 0.020 oversize bearings. The crankshafts are on back order right now and the dealership quoted $1500 for it, so that's not an option. My advice to everyone in this situation is to plan on rebuilding or replacing the engine, but if you're going to only do the camshaft and lifters then definitely check the main bearings while you have the oil pan off. The service manual states that the go/no go decision for engine replacement is if there is metal debris on the VVT solenoid, and I can confirm that this engine did in fact have metal debris present on the VVT solenoid screen. Eric's video was very helpful in guiding my decision making in a real world interaction with a new customer, and it was 100% spot on to what I ended up discovering in the teardown. Thank you very much Eric for your time and effort in putting this together!
@@rsanchez9227 probably what a bmw costs to rebuild. lol, that’s my guess. 5-10 grand depending on if you go used or new and where you live. That’s labor included
I have watched many many of his videos and I can tell you he is not a knowledgeable mechanic and incorrectly names common parts all the time and does not exactly understand how they work. If I had to guess he is either a parts guy or a lube tech before he hit the motor lotto if that is even his gig thats why all he does is takem apart XD. There is not much you will learn from him that's why I always hit next, Need to figure out how to block this guy on every device I have as well!
@@nicholashubbell5308 I think perhaps your shoulder head has become fused to your rear seal ! Yes Eric can be a bit of a butcher sometimes, often does ridiculous & foolish things, doesn't always know proper dismantling procedures or have correct special tools, often makes bad dad jokes & puns. THIS IS WHY WE LOVE HIM ! Eric - mate, bloke, buddy....DONT CHANGE A THING, though maybe show us some of the Holden's we sent you disguised as Pontiacs
@@nicholashubbell5308 so you've seen "many many" of Eric videos but don't know that he owns a successful auto part salvage business. I think you might be telling stories my friend.
If you do 3-5k OCIs, you can run any synthetic. Kirkland is good for these and inexpensive. Use a good filter like WIX or Purolator. Unfortunately, the lifter defect is still there. MOPAR doesn’t fix anything that will make it out of warranty.
I have a 5.7 that this happened to, I got it used with 117k miles. I had it fixed, do not EVER go beyond 5k miles on oil change and don't sit and idle for ridiculous periods of time.
I have been in the hospital all day with covid complications, and I honestly forgot its Saturday. When I saw the notification of a new engine teardown, it literally brightened my day. Thank you, Eric. Thank you.
It's a good rule to live by. However, depending on your driving habits you may not need to change it that often. For instance I do almost all highway miles, constant speed, oil fully warms up every time I drive so any moisture is burned off. I change around 7500, but have pushed towards 10k a few times (lots of overtime, no time to change oil). 2014 Focus ST still going strong at 264k miles. Great mileage, for an ST, always check oil for sparkles, make sure I don't run low, use quality oil and filters, etc. On the other hand my wife's car, 2019 Camry 2.5, it gets changed religiously at 5k, with either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil 0w16. Car gets driven on more short trips than mine, less highway, more idling, etc. So far so good! Want to really know? Send a sample off to get tested and see whats going on in your engine. I should do that with my Focus honestly...would be interesting to see what they say.
@socmonki my family bought me a 2006 nissan altima with the 2.5 i4 with 123,000 miles and other than the cvt slipping and making weird noises the engine runs great. I do 3000 miles because I live less than a mile from my job
@@powcod7455 we still have my wife's 2003 Altima 2.5. Has had the engine replaced (oil consumption, make sure you check your oil OFTEN, even with 3k changes!). Swapped engine, rebuilt, but unknown mileage, also burns oil. I keep it topped up when I drive it, however the transmission is in need of a rebuild. Doesn't like to shift if it's cold out. Needs to warm up because the seals are old and hard (old school 4 speed auto). Not bad for almost 300k miles though! Engine was swapped somewhere after 200k, not sure exactly when. It just wouldn't start one day, I assume it was lacking compression. We had an engine waiting to swap so we went ahead and swapped it. Keep up the maintanence, replace the CVT when it goes, and it should last for quite a while longer.
It's a time saver. You get to keep the clamps with a shorter distance to pull them off but it's less likely that you'll ever really save the bulk of the hoses for later use. Have any of you ever taken apart stuff like this with no intention of reassembly? Unclamped hoses still require a decent amount of elbow grease and time to surgically remove with the added risk of busting knuckles in the process. Nobody is here to see any of that. And if yallz are being sarcastic then it really did go over my head
I’ve got a 2016 2500 with a 6.4. It’s been a great truck. Towed campers and trailers all over the country and never had an issue. I know I could have an issue and all trucks have their problems but my truck has been a very reliable companion.
We have one of these in our brush truck on the fire department. It's a ballsy son of a gun even with 300 gallons of water, 25 gallons of foam with a 6" lift and rolling on 35s.
We also have a 5500 Ram with the 6.4 for a brush truck, but with a 500 gallon tank and a curb weight approaching 14,500 lbs it’s an absolute dog! I have the SRT version of the 6.4L (392) in my Jeep Wrangler, and with 470 hp and 470 lb/ft it absolutely rips!
Im 61 years have worked on alot of older motors. Some how watching you tear these down is giving me a good idea of what motor I want in my next truck. So on Saturday night a bag of popcorn, cold Coke and your video I'm good to go. Loved the car crushing with the rubber tire loader
@@mann_idonotreadreplies7.3 idi turbo? 6.9 idi? 5.9 12 valve cummins? If your a diesel head. Or if you love gassers like me, the old 300 ford and jeep 4.0 come to mind. :)
My internet connection died yesterday and my first rection was "How am I going to watch this weeks teardown?". I'm in the UK and I always watch these teardown video's before I get out of bed on Sunday morning. Thank you for sharing.
My heart skipped a beat when that motor jumped on the stand! Its a very decent core. The machist can take a few mils off of the crank journals and the end user can just go with thicker bearings. There's some very decent parts on this engine and im glad that it turned out well for you. Always glad for the entertainment value as well. Cheers!
It's hilarious seeing Hemis being disassembled here. The company I work for almost exclusively uses Rams for work vehicles, many of which sit for hours and hours, idling, AC going. And yes, some have the tick. One is a loaner (should be retired but guy's truck needed work so...here ya go!) has 210000+ miles on it, ticks like mad on start up, and he just lets it sit all day idling. And it still runs. For how much longer? No idea! But I won't be surprised when it goes pop. That one is a 5.7. Now they're starting to give everyone 6.4's, and one guy has 202k on his. Again it idles, a LOT, and ticks and makes some odd noises, but it's still going, for now. He's due a new truck, he inherited the one he has. Know of one 5.7 that had to be replaced, I'm sure there's been more. They auction them off at 200k+, I guess to avoid any major issues. Ticking Time Bombs! Nice if you can get one cheap enough and then swap the engine, but I don't know what they sell for.
I’ve been watching for a while now and I’m always watching with an eye toward simplicity and reliability. This engine seems like one of the most straightforward designs that I’ve seen on the channel while still making serious modern power.
They are super simple, easy to work on engines. The 6.4 has that EGR and cooler but other then that this is nicely designed engine, with high quality gaskets and seals. And cylinder heads that flow 340cfm stock!!! No expensive direct injection components too. Put a more aggressive camshaft in it and some valve springs and it will make 550+hp
@@mann_idonotreadreplies Did you know the GM 5.3 because of all the problems & lawsuites, they don't make it anymore. Oh, its made by GM. You understand ????
I'm old enough to have never seen one except on youtube. And having one permanently connected to the oil pan gasket is the OEM guys putting it to the purchaser!!
@@TCW-hw6iwI’m old enough to remember there was no such thing in ANY oil pan gasket, TH-cam, internet didn’t exist yet & I added one into a twin turbo charged 5.0 (push rod) Mustang engine back in 1993 or so. Along with a crank oil scraper.
I'm just one of those YT observers of videos like this. It's part of my affliction, these fascinate me. Always have. From when I was 14 and putting together a small block Chevy from a box of parts, to my last days as a GM tech and later as a machine shop guy. Interesting that so many late model vehicles have lifter issues, rockers too. Might come down to the increased recommendations of oil change intervals. And we know many owners don't follow them. Although this Hemi was rather clean inside, His suggestion about the idle issues and lubrication might be right on. Thanks.
Love the failure analysis on these engines. I've always been a big fan of changing the oil in all of my cars, and this confirms my fetish for doing so. Thanks, Eric!
I am on my 2nd 6.4l work truck and the engines have been very good. 2018 is about to hit 200k miles (hard work miles) and now in a 2024 just hit 12k miles. Transmission in the 2024 the 8 speed is much better than the one on my 2018 I can say that much. Sad to see them go away.
This video came out as I was literally putting back together my 392 6.4 Hemi last weekend! Thanks for the teardown! It makes me feel much better about the state of my 6.4 ;)
This issue persists till at least the 2021 models. Cam replacements are often and expensive enough that its makes more sense to replace the engine with the Jasper modified 6.4, with the oiling problems resolved. I see this issue at 60-80k miles on all of the ambulances I maintain and is from idling at 20-25psi of oil pressure. Our solution for the time being is 15w40.
I own a 2022 Ram 1500 with the HEMI. At 32,000 it started to develop a cold start tick that went away within just a couple of seconds, as soon as oil pressure came up. I immediately changed from the recommended 0w20 to 5w30. The cold start tick immediately went away. At 49,000 miles now, the cold start tick has not returned, and surprisingly, the fuel mileage has not changed. It is still 21-23 mpg on the highway! The moral of the story is use the proper weight oil, and don’t let the truck idle for any appreciable amount of time!
I have an 05 5.7 (different generation but similar) I run 10w30 diesel oil in mine and never had the "hemi tick" issue at all sence switching. And also 1 extra quart of oil. My truck lives at 4000+ rpm for an hour at a time and they have an issue with sucking the pan dry at higher prolonged rpm.
Why in the sweet lord would I purchase a truck that I can’t idle?! My Tundra 5.7 would idle for hours every day as it was also used as my mobile office. 300k miles and a ton of idle time, no tick, no oil consumption. Why people keep buying these Rams will never cease to amaze me. There are much better options folks.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE when you take the clamps off carefully and then cut the hose. Even when I know it's coming, I laugh out loud. Keep doing what you do man. Love the content.
It's a bummer when yards cut the hoses. I end up reusing the customers heater hose that has 200k on it instead of the nice 50k mile hoses that could have come with the used engine.
After our catastrophic failures with Fords, we've been shifting our fleet to Rams and we have five 390ci (6.4s) and have tore them all down and replaced the oil pumps with Mellings 10452, so far 2 of them have gone over 170K after rebuilt no issues, always wondered if this could be the main issue.
Eric, you have confirmed that I have indeed, not wasted resources by adhering to established oil change intervals. I have driven a lifetime without an oil-related failure. Thanks for all the insight you provide to car guys and gals.
Ive been waiting for one of these forever! Just to chime in, the splash lube was a myth started by uncle tony because he thought the lifters weren't oiled on their own, he assumed they relied on splash lube, and the internet ran with it. But the lifters have a direct oil path through the rocker, down the push rods to the lifters. Chrysler's issue with lifters has been an ongoing issue, just like GM, because the design is picky. Like you know, Pushrod V8's at modern tolerances HAVE to have good quality CLEAN oil. the lifters have gone through numerous redesigns over the last few decades (indicated by the last two characters). AA is a first design, AB is a redesign of the part, AC and so on. I believe the lifter in this truck was an AA, and the part is now on an AD redesign. So overall we've got a few issues going on. 1. Quality control issues with cam hardness and lifter tolerances 2. Maintenance intervals being taken too far, and 3.the EVIC not properly taking idle time into account for oil change intervals. The 6.4 Hemi has been out for 10 years now, and the 5.7 over 20, if we had a design flaw on our hands, we would have almost every single truck fail by this point. But ive seen these trucks with literally thousands of idle hours on them. My personal truck is a 21 2500, with around 1000 hours of idle time. If you want them to last, change the oil often and you'll be totally fine. They do break, just like everything does, but they're great engines. All cars suck.
Do you think that if the heads, lifters and cams used a separate oil system to the crank, that it could fix the issue, since there wouldn't be as much combustion products in the head oil. I have been considering this idea for ohc engines, but i think it would be possible in an ohv, if the block was engineered with a sealed partition around the cam, and an extra oil pump for the heads.
Yep. I agree. That uncle Tony crap theory/misinformation has been spread all over the internet. I don't buy any of it. Either put a high volume oil pump on it, or don't idle it, but you just HAVE to keep the oil clean. Top tier synthetic oil & top tier oil filters are always key. I HIGHLY recommend oil filter magnets to catch the ferrous "dust" circulating in the oil, too. That & cutting your old oil filters apart would give you some warnings as to what is happening internally.
Love watching you tear these down. I’m actually finding myself knowing what I’m looking at under the hood! And your sense of humor rocks! Thanks for doing what you do!
Our 2019 6.4l plow truck idles alot. 10,000 miles. 1700 hours idle. 1200 hours driving. Its missing on 2 cylinders. It has had only 3 oil changes.... My 2020 5.7L 1/2 ton has 45k miles and 300 idle and 1400 driving. Thats with 6 oil changes. Zero issues.
i had a bronco, 351c, best engine ever. owned for 21 yrs, bought 2nd hand. on lpg for 25 yrs. i fitted 302c heads, 12.1 comp. no cam. went like a cut cat & thrashed regular, work truck.. but, oil change every 3 months, even if it sat there.. sold couple months back, no issues.. clevo, best engine ever built.. 350 chev, garbage..
@KevinGentry-o6k Turn the key on like normal, but hold gas pedal to the floor. It turns off the fuel injectors, while building oil pressure. You can also reset the throttle position sensor by opening the key without turning on, while slowly pressing the gas pedal, hold for 20 seconds and slowly release. After turn the key off and fire up like normal.
Common failure point. The valvetrain is at 180 deg instead of 120 or 90 deg in other v8s and there's no lifter valley to provide lubrication to the cam and lifters so they will sieze up and fail over time. The LS has a similar problem. There was a very good reason for the lifter valley in traditional V8 designs. Modern engineers seem to have forgotten that's how you lube the lifters and cam.
the petrol,?. have 2 different heads, i think the left one shts, needs fixing from new.. bet he never does an f250 mwm sprint 4.2tdi.. brazilian ford.. ausie.. mine has 700nm..no computer..
14:08 Did anyone notice that when Eric threw the head gasket into the air, it just vanished? It never hit the ground again. 😮 Maybe he threw it so hard it went into orbit. Thanks, Eric. It's not like we have enough useless junk just floating around up there. Now you have to add to it.
yep i found that out when i changed mine. pre-gapped so no gapping tool needed. after seeing the size of the lifters i know why it only get 13 mpg. Use OEM spec oil and change every 5k miles on it for regular use and the engine will hum.
That green and black vibration dampener puller is "the right" puller. Remove the hook pins, place the hooks facing outward inside the small holes of the dampener, reattach the hooks to the center, and pull. Thank you for the Hemi teardown.
That Hemi engine had enough buildup that it was obvious that the oil was neglected to some degree (yeah, we've all seen worse). This channel has made me into an oil change fanatic. It's a pretty reasonable cost compared to a new engine.
Actually, the afm causes alot of headaches with lifters, but usually it's the operators fault for extended oil change intervals, 3k that's it and only high quality synthetic oils throughout the vehicle! Also most engine rebuilders and machine shops recommend the hellcat oil pump or the melling HV pump upon rebuild, this seems to solve any further reliable problems for all the Hemi line. 5.7s get the HV pump and the big bad Hemis get the hellcat pump with afm delete and vvt delete. Problem solved👍
I like these engines despite thier problems. I feel that every modern engine has thier inherent problems. Sometimes you get lucky and go 200k. Sometimes not and dont make it pass the dealers lot. Its a crapshoot. Great tear down though. Loved it. Can't believe it has two sparkplugs per cylinder. Kind like the old 2.5 4 cylinder in the Ranger. 😊
I have a 2021 Ram 6.4 with 120K miles. Always use synthetic 10W40 oil and change it every 6K miles, never let it idle more than 15 minutes. Confident that I will get 300K miles out of it
Had lifter failure in my 2014 Ram 2500 with the same engine. Glad I replaced it with a new one, but ouch on the replacement cost. Thanks Eric! Mine had the failure at 117K in 2023, I treated it right but it was a used truck when I got it in 2020 with 77K on it, so didn't have a history on it. Seeing what had happened to the main bearings on this engine makes me think about how bad the ones in my failed engine might have looked.
Chrysler could just install some extra nozzles on those piston oil squirters that fog the cam and the underside of the lifters with a light mist of oil, and would probably go a very long way to solving this problem.
@Turnipstalk I haven’t been hands on with every version of the 2009 and up 5.7 or the 6.4 Hemi’s to know for sure, however to my knowledge none of the different versions of the 5.7 ever had piston oil squirters. This engine and I assume all the SRT versions of the 6.4 would appear to have them, and a little research (mostly just consulting a few videos from the Reignited Cycle & Automotive channel) indicates to me that the 2009+ 5.7’s and the 6.4’s share the same volume oil pump, they at least have the same thickness of the pump gears, if not the same pump outright, and all the Hemi’s appear to share the same windage parts. If it were up to me I would just ensure that any redesign of the piston oil squirters would flow the same amount as the current ones, just redirect some of that flow, ideally just a light mist away from the underside of the pistons and towards the lifters which clearly would make better use of it.
I put 135,000 miles on a 2012 5.7 liter Hemi with absolutely no tick. I now have 17,000 miles on my 2022 6.4 Hemi and I will continue to get regular oil changes with it just as with the 5.7. Hopefully I can avoid this problem.
I bought a 14 Ram with a lifter noise from an auction! One lifter was compressed a 1/4 inch! Cam was like brand new! While cranking the engine with the valve cover off, the oil was squirting on the injectors, that seems pretty good! I heard that Dodge used a cheaper manufacturer of lifters and cams for a few years! My new lifters were made in Germany, and my cam came from Mexico, so I guess that’s good! 😊
Finally, someone stating facts about why the lifters fail instead of just jumping to an uneducated opinion blaming the MDS! The manual trans HEMI's also had this issue.
I thought it was more the GM engines that suffered from that? I always thought the needle bearings in the lifters themselves going bad caused Hemi problems.
It almost as if there is more than one cause of failure! PS MDS (mopar)/AFM (GM)/VCM (honda) is the work of the devil and causes multiple problems for all brands
If only it was true, if the angle and oil pressure mattered older Hemi engines would have the same issues. But the lifters didn't really become an issue until the 2011 model year.
Didn't Chrysler upgrade the oil pump too? There is a brand of lifters that use brass bushings instead of needle bearings, I wonder if that would be a good replacement
Even when a hemi mds lifter fails, its almost never the extra parts related to the mds. Its always the roller/needle bearings. I think it's simply a quality control/manufacturing issue related to metallurgy/heat treating of the roller and or needle bearings. The '08 and previous hemi's didn't have this issue in large numbers and they had the same valve train geometry. It's documented that the oem lifter supplier changed in '09 Skimping on heat treating is also the reason these engines break exhaust studs when the cast iron manifolds warp. I think they started doing too much cost/process engineering and it backfired. One factor my theory doesn't explain is why it's so common that cylinder 5 and 7 lifters fail. I've seen failures on each cylinder at one time or another, but 5 and 7 are the most common
I actually was impressed with this engine, except for the lifter problem getting proper lubrication, it was better that expected. Timing area was way better than a Ford with 2, 2 mile long chains and guides, not a big fan of that. Also, not a 2 piece block like some of the European models, not a big fan of that either. Great video Eric, I enjoy these every Sunday.
Chrysler put out a bulletin a while back to check the VVT solenoid for metal shavings. If it's clean you are safe to replace cam and lifters, if it has shavings it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
My VVT solenoid was clean, however the whole cam was ruined and cam bearings are ruined. It will need all new bearings everywhere and probably pistons and rings as well. Oil used was full synthetic, 5000-5500 kms oil change intervals. 185,000 kms.
@@jeffmiller2433 that's pretty unusual in my experience, but there is always an exception. I did have one that needed an oil pump with the cam. VVT solenoid was clean and there was nothing bad in the oil pan.
@@agateforghosts291I wish mine was that easy. I already have a new upgraded oil pump ready without even looking at the old one. Oil pan and filter have lots of glitter. I’m hoping the cylinders will be ok.
@@jeffmiller2433 definitely hard to say without looking at it but I'd say there's still hope. The block is a pretty stout iron compound and I regularly see the factory crosshatch intact at high mileage, so your chances are pretty good.
I worked at a trailer shop a few years ago. The boss was trying to get a few trucks on the lot and bought 2015 Ram 2500 6.4. It had a check engine light indicating a misfire on cyl 3. Tried replacing or bouncing everything associated to cylinder 3. One day I did a search for the code it was throwing. The most common result for it was the lifter issue. Told the boss, he had already arranged for the truck to go over to the mechanic that was changing out the rear end (yes, it was a problem too, and that mechanic found the sparkles. New engine, new rear end, and a flatbed later the boss kept the truck for his own use last I heard on it. The sad thing is, Boss knew the owner, the owner took it exclusively to the Ram dealer he bought it from so we had the records. 150k-ish miles and we were the first ones to change fluids other than engine oil. I started to wonder if this was that engine, but we didn't go back in with Bosch plugs.
When the main bearings are damaged, but the rod bearings are not, this can point to a problem with low oil pressure at idle. At very low rpm, main bearings are more sensitive to low pressure than rod bearings, whereas the opposite is true at higher rpm. An oil pump pressure relief valve sticking open will cause low oil pressure at idle, but won't reduce oil pressure very much at higher rpm when the relief valve should be at least partially open anyway. If the engine did have a problem with low oil pressure at idle, that may have caused the lifters to fail as well.
I’ve noticed after looking inside all these engines that you have disassembled is that most of the car makers are copying each other. Nearly all of them use an oil pump mounted to the front of the crank, most of them use a similarly designed lifter tray instead of the old dog bone style, and they have all gone to deep skirt blocks instead of like the old engines where half of the crankshaft was above the oil pan surface.
in the begining,,there were 3 engineers at 1 car company, they had an argument as to how things should be built, so they split, to other manufacturers..hence, certain things are similar. but, clevo wins. with design.. fit a cam, drive, job done.. no need for speed shop..like gm, & some dodge engines.. chev, allways make the cheapest crap.. instead of going from the 350 to the new LS. they had 200 variants.. then went to lotus, to find out how to build an engine. which, if you look, is very similar to a ford FE..1950..
Yes we have reached a point in design and engineering where most companies have come to the same conclusion on what works and what doesn't. Alot of this comes from the LS research and some European and Asian stuff prior to that.
it's cheaper to mount the oil pump on the crank because there's no need to put a gear on the crank to drive it, saves machining two gears, one for the pump and one for the crank.
The crank is machinable. Use a tripod style hone to hone the cylinders, not a ball type hone. The cylinders will clean up using a medium grit stone. New cam is needed, as you said. Heads look good, but I would get them faced to be on the safe side. You can turn that into a ten k engine with no problem at all.
The first hemi I saw was 2004. I was in Atlanta at the time . I put 100,000 miles on it and sold it. I will admit it was ticking at the time. The damage you saw tells me you are right. I bet it sit idling a lot. I have a 2012 5.7 now with only 104,000 miles and going strong.
As soon as i saw the shot lifters, that reminded me of my 05 6.0L Powerstroke where i was cruising down the road and suddenly oil light came on and oil press went to zero; I didn't stop, i kept going for another mile to my friends garage, it ran fine but after turning it off, no start, no oil press. Turned out the 2 rear lifter rollers fell apart and needle bearings conquered the crankcase and the oil pump. Luckily that 1 mile drive didn't do more damage than the 265K miles! After a new cam, 2 rollers, front engine cover and $4,500 later it drives strong again; Well, st least until the next needle destroys it! As for this 6.4L, 50+ years of engine evolution and this 392 makes almost equal power to a 1970s 396 chevy big block. Very sad to see how not much has changed.. One would assume that 50 years would propel this 392 to at least double the HP from the factory!
I'm starting to think QC on All bearings is sh*t these days. Just replaced the diff on my F150 at only 50k miles. The Tech said the side bearings let go and introduced metal into the pinion, ring and spiders. I only hope they put better ones back in... next time won't be on warranty.
Take a closer look at that ProTec "Wix" filter. That brand consists entirely of Purolator filters with "Wix" stickers on them. The same goes for "Bosch" filters. The ProTec PXL57060 and Bosch 3334 are both based on the Purolator L12222. I think the Quaker State QS45518 is also the same filter, as are some store branded filters.
you need big in small out.. only 1/3rd goes out that comes in.. plus, theres gaps between exhaust gases. at least there not gm simese ports, from flintstone era..they almost built a decent engine, 454, but compared to the 460, its still lacks..
@@donleamon8653 - It was a plow truck. Up here in the salt belt (Wisconsin) nothing lasts forever, but i had a HEMI that needed manifolds after 2 years.
The engine predates fiat(stellantis is a name change that sounds classier and dumps chrysler out of the name) and it is more profitable to leave it alone
I had every issue you could have with these. Even replaced the lifters with Hellcat lifters. Those also failed... the amount of glitter in the oil also took the mains with it.
Many 6.4 Hemi owners have gone well over 150,000 miles with no issues what so ever. It's not a bad engine. This channel specifically reviews replaced engines so of course all the engines he tears down are going to have issues.
@@dirtfarmer7472 if you go over to Ray's channel you'll find a series of videos on a White T&C that is owned by a family that had some health issues, the van needed a new motor so what Ray decided to do is team up with Eric find a new motor for this van and give it back to them for free
Very rare theres a bad bottom end on any Hemi, they are extremely strong and built and designed for high horsepower. Almost all the failures ive seen are top end oiling, head gaskets, seat drops, etc. All of these can be prevented by proper fluid change intervals. 3k max oil change, and all other fluids n filters at factory intervals. Every Dodge ive ever worked on the last 50 years has been abused, and maintenence neglected with crap oil and clogged oilways, filters that weigh a ton when removed etc. Customers fault even with AFM. Ive seen these engines with well over 300k that run like new because the customer actually took care of maintence diligently, they are not bad engines, they are fantastic engines.
Using light oil - as recommended by MOPAR= lifter failure - testing oil (for bearing material) has PROVEN 4x more wear during startup when using light oil (that drips RIGHT off everything) -vs- 'normal' oil, like 20W50.... I may switch my hemi to straight weight, probably 40W, more research first - may settle with 20W50, BUT, my car NEVER needs the 'W' oil, living in the garage 7 months a year in Michigan...
Try searching 'Lake Speed Jr' here on TH-cam, you'll learn a few things about oil that you obviously don't know. I think his channel is 'The Oil Geek'.
I'm happy for you that you "think" you know more than the engineers who designed this engine. It's good that I read posts like yours because I always get a good chuckle from them.
@@joeblowe7545 I can understand the sentiment but if the engineering design was better then there wouldn't be so many stories about lifter problems. If these engines didn't suffer failures before 200k miles then people would not be trying these homebrew oil solutions.
@@stingrayl82 - The engineers didn't make that decision - the bean counters did, due to government regulations on fuel economy. MOST of them got to the end of warranty BEFORE eating up lifter roller bearings. Perhaps you should get an education BEFORE pretending to know anything about engines.
a couple pro shops have found a reliable solution for the long idling /oil issue... I haven't verified, but supposedly, the Hellcat Oil Pump is a direct bolt on for the 5.7 & the 6.4 .... it's not so much about pressure, the stock 6.4 oil pump is around 53-56psi...and around 32 at idle... but.. the hellcat oil pump has more Volume.... and that additional volume of oil movement does the same as keeping a higher rpm at keeping sufficient oil on the upper end... not everyone wants to have a high idle/ more fuel consumption etc... so looking into upgrading to the hellcat higher volume oil pump seems to be a good answer & had good results so far...
I own a 2009 hemi 215k on it. I was warned when I bought it not to let it idle for very long. I do not understand why dodge doesn't have this motor programmed to bump the idle after a designated idle period. WE have computers on board that could do that.
currently getting a new engine on a 2020 ram 2500 6.4 under warranty at 51k miles .. dropped 2 lifters took out all the bearings.. Mahle HV oil pump and M1 5w50 oil in the desert summers, M1 0w40 in the winters once the new engine is out of warranty!
Well in the SRT application that 6.4 makes as much power as the AMG 6.2 with four cams, and 32 valves and more complexity and cost than is needed. So the win goes to Dodge for mass producing an absolute monster of an engine that makes such power. AMG head bolts up to 2014 fail, and AMG lifters fail - like the Dodge - but there are twice as many of them, and three times as many cams, so the cost in parts exceed the price of a new long block crate engine from Dodge.
My cousin Danny Mihok is an AC tech out in Phoenix and was so proud of his 392 Challenger and telling me all about how it could beat my '14 Cayman S on a track [Not likely since the Cayman S can run 7:40 Nordschleife times and run a mid 12 at 115 mph in the quarter on the drag strip], but then one day it overheated on him and before he could get it shut off it dropped a valve seat and destroyed the engine. Not good, since it was out of warranty. Meanwhile, my 9A1 3.4 liter flat 6 just sings to me every day and can turn 12 second quarter mile times.... 😁
My company has close to 100x 2018 Ram 2500 with the 6.4L and the lifters die somewhere right around 100k. Granted our trucks have above average idle hours, but its very consistently 90-110k miles. Transmissions dies right around the same mileage. Edit to add, these trucks get the oil checked daily and the oil changed every 5000 miles.
@@thegrey8643 Likely a bit of 'splash lubrication' going on, i.e. the crankshaft spinning at higher speed flings oil onto the cam and lifters which keeps them alive. Same reason they say to break in new cams at 2000 rpm on old pushrod V8s.
@@nerd1000ify Exactly. Im not surprised after opening a few of them up, that the solution was pretty simple though. Just 200 more RPM at idle in the software. Another easy trick to Deactivate the MDS system that turns off cylinders is to trick the vehicle into thinking its hooked to a trailer, towing.
I really liked this tear down and especially the point about raising the idle speed. Today's engines especially diesels should be bumped up by 100 rpm and gasoline engines by 50-75 for better lubrication! Over the lifetime of an engine running at a higher rpm, might cost you an additional 20-30 dollars more in petrol but compared to thousands of dollars for a replacement engine, well I'd say the choice is like the advertisement with Charles Barkley in it ! ! ! I've always run mine higher due to my days with both big and small diesels and all their long idle periods... I'm just saying
This video is great proof that if your lifters fail, then you can’t just replace the lifters and cam. Engine needs a full once over. Including main bearings.
Now this was a good tear-down. It showed that you cannot just change a few parts and leave an engine running. It would have grenaded later on down the road. Thank You.
Filter on suction side starves pump and creates aerated oil. When engine is cold and oil thick filter needs to bypass and that reduces flow path and worsens suction load of pump. If they put filter on oil pump inlet and a failing roller lifter failed and clogged the filter, you'd still have bearings that bit the dust.
i picked up my 2011 1500 with 173k Miles with a 5.7 Hemi in sept of 2023 (crazy good deal and i needed a vehicle), around 9 months and 10k miles later I Noticed a very loud chirping sound coming from the engine after cold starting it. After driving for around 20 miles it didn't get any louder or quieter so I Had it taken to my mechanic and i was able to get away with just replacing cam and lifters. So far around 6k more miles and I've tried to limit my idle time and I'm going to start doing oil changes ever 3k instead of 5k. I caught it day one (I think) so I'm hoping to get another 170K out of the ol'e girl before she gets retired as a backup. Long story short. This issue is way more common than i originally thought and my wallet hurts...
My thoughts on all hemi engines is that they should have a code in their ECM that will rev the engine after it has idled for a given amount of time. Oil pressure would go up and lubricate the parts that fail with extended idling. I have this engine in my Power Wagon and take care not to let it idle at low rpms for extended times. So far it has been a great engine.
@@Drmcclung LOL. Chrysler can most certainly engineer an engine. The 5.9L Magnum (aka LA 360 V8) that preceded the Gen3 Hemi didn't have this problem. As will all other manufactures, the bean counters run the company these days
I agree, there is a a lot of idle rpm tuning available in the PCM, but just not that. I've bumped mine up for various scenarios where I'd want to sit and idle. Like with the AC on or when it's cold out. The closest is there's a setting to change idle RPM based on intake air temps. It's really hot idle that's the issue, sitting on a hot day running the AC. As said not only can the idle be increased just for having the AC on. But if the intake air temps get high, which would be an indicator of the hot engine compartment of a stationary vehicle, the idle can be increased as well.
@@philbrutsche8928 the 5.9 magnum makes NO power, weighs as much as a Yugo, you're lucky to get 14mpg out of one, has a nasty habit of locking up. Even Mopar guys hate the 360 lol
My work truck had same Cam and Lifter issue. Dealer charged 10k to fix. Could have done crate engine for less $$ but from 84k to 127k still runs quiet and strong
I have replaced 100-120 of these HEMI engines now & the one thing I see the MOST is Police, government & company cars that IDLE for 6 to 8 hrs per day. I was actually sued by one company for their engine failures & upon court date I had accumulated 1000s of pages of court cases & DODGES own internal emails to Prove it is DEFINETLY a MANUFACTURES problem & DODGE was even questioning themselves if they should assume responsibility when supplying FLEET vehicles. I won the case & won a counter suit for slandering my business by pointing the finger at me.
Had to replace one of these a couple years ago at the shop. Called 3 engine rebuild shops, and they all told me they won't do them. They are junk and too much of a liability. Customer had to get one from dodge.
Love it when tides are turned.
@@corbinschad1 not anymore of a liability than GM V8s , it's the design with the cam location away from oil splash lubrication. But then again the Direct Injection engines are having lots of issues as well, so ultimately it shows if you slack on maintenance, these new engines aren't build to take the abuse.
@@DL101ca you are 100% correct on the maintenance. In my experience, Ford is the most sensitive to maintenance needs. And yes, the GM LT engines suck. I will never buy another GM truck newer than 2013.
@@DL101camodern V8 engines don’t rely on splash lubrication for the cam. The cam isn’t even exposed to the crank in a hemi or LS. It’s poor materials and manufacturing of the lifters. Plus NO engine lasts being idled all day, nor do older non roller lifters and cams last forever either.
I just had a customer come to me with a 6.4L hemi engine on a 2018 RAM 2500 w/ only 105,000 miles that had a loud ticking noise and a constant #8 misfire (60 psi compression measured on #8). I diagnosed it as a camshaft/lifter failure on the #8 cylinder and was stuck trying to decide on quoting just a camshaft and lifter replacement or telling him that the engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced. A lot of folks on TH-cam are just replacing the camshaft and lifters, but I came across Eric's teardown video above and I ultimately decided to inform the customer that the engine needed to be rebuilt or replaced. My customer elected for the rebuild and I have since removed and disassembled the engine. My findings were identical to what was shown in this video: the oil pan was completely full of metal debris, the main bearings were trashed, and the cam lobe was severely worn. The crankshaft journals were lightly scored and I will be sending it into the machine shop next week to see if my guy can polish the journals, otherwise he is going to grind it for the 0.010 or 0.020 oversize bearings. The crankshafts are on back order right now and the dealership quoted $1500 for it, so that's not an option. My advice to everyone in this situation is to plan on rebuilding or replacing the engine, but if you're going to only do the camshaft and lifters then definitely check the main bearings while you have the oil pan off. The service manual states that the go/no go decision for engine replacement is if there is metal debris on the VVT solenoid, and I can confirm that this engine did in fact have metal debris present on the VVT solenoid screen. Eric's video was very helpful in guiding my decision making in a real world interaction with a new customer, and it was 100% spot on to what I ended up discovering in the teardown. Thank you very much Eric for your time and effort in putting this together!
Whats the price range on a rebuilt?
@@rsanchez9227 probably what a bmw costs to rebuild. lol, that’s my guess. 5-10 grand depending on if you go used or new and where you live. That’s labor included
VVT is an engineered internal self destruct switch
This is exactly what happened to my 5.7. 2019 Laramie
My wife, "why do you watch this stuff". Because I am a man. It is amazing what you can learn watching an engine be taken apart. agree?
I have watched many many of his videos and I can tell you he is not a knowledgeable mechanic and incorrectly names common parts all the time and does not exactly understand how they work. If I had to guess he is either a parts guy or a lube tech before he hit the motor lotto if that is even his gig thats why all he does is takem apart XD. There is not much you will learn from him that's why I always hit next, Need to figure out how to block this guy on every device I have as well!
@@nicholashubbell5308 I think perhaps your shoulder head has become fused to your rear seal ! Yes Eric can be a bit of a butcher sometimes, often does ridiculous & foolish things, doesn't always know proper dismantling procedures or have correct special tools, often makes bad dad jokes & puns. THIS IS WHY WE LOVE HIM ! Eric - mate, bloke, buddy....DONT CHANGE A THING, though maybe show us some of the Holden's we sent you disguised as Pontiacs
@@nicholashubbell5308 so you've seen "many many" of Eric videos but don't know that he owns a successful auto part salvage business. I think you might be telling stories my friend.
I tell my wife I watch this stuff so I don't have to watch hallmark movies!
I would follow your wife ....if shes questioning your masculinity shes messing around with a Feminine male Democrat !! Haha
I just bought a 2023 6.4 hemi vehicle. I've got 250 miles on it, and now I know how to protect it, thanks to Eric.
To bump the idle you'd need an unlocked PCM and tuning stuff. Good oil though for sure, I suggest Redline.
If you do 3-5k OCIs, you can run any synthetic. Kirkland is good for these and inexpensive. Use a good filter like WIX or Purolator.
Unfortunately, the lifter defect is still there. MOPAR doesn’t fix anything that will make it out of warranty.
Could also upgrade to the hellcat oil pump
change oil before due..
I have a 5.7 that this happened to, I got it used with 117k miles.
I had it fixed, do not EVER go beyond 5k miles on oil change and don't sit and idle for ridiculous periods of time.
I have been in the hospital all day with covid complications, and I honestly forgot its Saturday. When I saw the notification of a new engine teardown, it literally brightened my day. Thank you, Eric. Thank you.
Hope you feel better soon!!
Get well, friend. Hopefully, you avoid "long covid". Prayers for your healing
Hope you feel better. This video should help a bit. I always enjoy his engine tear downs.
Hahahaha vax damaged
Eric is the perfect combination of knowledge, humor, and humility.
Eric does a better job teaching econ 101 then most teachers...
As a businessman. Eric LIVES Econ 101 ....
Fans all over the world. Yes, yes you do. You have such a great sense of humor. Thanks!
I’m reminded of the 2005 hit song “Pimpin All Over The World “. What better description could there be of our dear friend here.
This is fine. 😂
Eric, you have single-handedly convinced me to reduce oil change intervals on all my cars. It’s just cheap insurance
Yup, me too. Full Synthetic every 5k miles.
My grandpa always told me "expensive oil is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new engine"
It's a good rule to live by. However, depending on your driving habits you may not need to change it that often. For instance I do almost all highway miles, constant speed, oil fully warms up every time I drive so any moisture is burned off. I change around 7500, but have pushed towards 10k a few times (lots of overtime, no time to change oil). 2014 Focus ST still going strong at 264k miles. Great mileage, for an ST, always check oil for sparkles, make sure I don't run low, use quality oil and filters, etc. On the other hand my wife's car, 2019 Camry 2.5, it gets changed religiously at 5k, with either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil 0w16. Car gets driven on more short trips than mine, less highway, more idling, etc. So far so good! Want to really know? Send a sample off to get tested and see whats going on in your engine. I should do that with my Focus honestly...would be interesting to see what they say.
@socmonki my family bought me a 2006 nissan altima with the 2.5 i4 with 123,000 miles and other than the cvt slipping and making weird noises the engine runs great. I do 3000 miles because I live less than a mile from my job
@@powcod7455 we still have my wife's 2003 Altima 2.5. Has had the engine replaced (oil consumption, make sure you check your oil OFTEN, even with 3k changes!). Swapped engine, rebuilt, but unknown mileage, also burns oil. I keep it topped up when I drive it, however the transmission is in need of a rebuild. Doesn't like to shift if it's cold out. Needs to warm up because the seals are old and hard (old school 4 speed auto). Not bad for almost 300k miles though! Engine was swapped somewhere after 200k, not sure exactly when. It just wouldn't start one day, I assume it was lacking compression. We had an engine waiting to swap so we went ahead and swapped it. Keep up the maintanence, replace the CVT when it goes, and it should last for quite a while longer.
Removes 4 hose clamps. Proceeds to cut the hoses and leave them on the fittings 😂
When I saw he removed All of the clamps I immediately knew he’d cut the hoses.cracks me up every time
I immediately looked for this comment lol
Refuses to elaborate, continues to tear down.
It's a time saver. You get to keep the clamps with a shorter distance to pull them off but it's less likely that you'll ever really save the bulk of the hoses for later use.
Have any of you ever taken apart stuff like this with no intention of reassembly? Unclamped hoses still require a decent amount of elbow grease and time to surgically remove with the added risk of busting knuckles in the process.
Nobody is here to see any of that. And if yallz are being sarcastic then it really did go over my head
@@lastvestiges Sarcasm in a YT comment section? Nah.
I’ve got a 2016 2500 with a 6.4. It’s been a great truck. Towed campers and trailers all over the country and never had an issue. I know I could have an issue and all trucks have their problems but my truck has been a very reliable companion.
We have one of these in our brush truck on the fire department. It's a ballsy son of a gun even with 300 gallons of water, 25 gallons of foam with a 6" lift and rolling on 35s.
We have a Skeeter brush truck with similar specs but 390 gallons. Has a 7.3 Godzilla and it's an absolute dog. F550 crew cab.
Jeez...that's a beefy bitch!!
We also have a 5500 Ram with the 6.4 for a brush truck, but with a 500 gallon tank and a curb weight approaching 14,500 lbs it’s an absolute dog! I have the SRT version of the 6.4L (392) in my Jeep Wrangler, and with 470 hp and 470 lb/ft it absolutely rips!
Best we ever had was a J20 Jeep with a 360 and quadratrac. Had a Bean high pressure pump and 100 gallons. Best brush setup ever.
You guys use gasoline engines on vehicles intended to go close to fires?
Im 61 years have worked on alot of older motors. Some how watching you tear these down is giving me a good idea of what motor I want in my next truck. So on Saturday night a bag of popcorn, cold Coke and your video I'm good to go. Loved the car crushing with the rubber tire loader
Cool story bro
@@mann_idonotreadreplies7.3 idi turbo? 6.9 idi? 5.9 12 valve cummins? If your a diesel head. Or if you love gassers like me, the old 300 ford and jeep 4.0 come to mind. :)
Damn. You know you're doing something right when your video has been up for 13min and already has 1.7k views.
3287 at 24 minutes
4199 at 31 minutes.
5197 42 mins
It’s over 9000 (at 60+ min)
They might not make as much power, but this is EXACTLY why I like the old school Small Block Mopars!
400hp isn't a lot?
@@JJ-mh3hbapache heads flow better than any small block heads ever.
@@randymagnum143oh really... B.S. I HAVE W2s ported and polished to max proportions. 315 CFM on flow bench
@@bradhardy2629 apache heads flow 340-350 as cast. Over 400 ported. What is BS?
My internet connection died yesterday and my first rection was "How am I going to watch this weeks teardown?". I'm in the UK and I always watch these teardown video's before I get out of bed on Sunday morning. Thank you for sharing.
Just who is this 'internet connection' and exactly how did they die?
My heart skipped a beat when that motor jumped on the stand! Its a very decent core. The machist can take a few mils off of the crank journals and the end user can just go with thicker bearings. There's some very decent parts on this engine and im glad that it turned out well for you. Always glad for the entertainment value as well. Cheers!
It's hilarious seeing Hemis being disassembled here. The company I work for almost exclusively uses Rams for work vehicles, many of which sit for hours and hours, idling, AC going. And yes, some have the tick. One is a loaner (should be retired but guy's truck needed work so...here ya go!) has 210000+ miles on it, ticks like mad on start up, and he just lets it sit all day idling. And it still runs. For how much longer? No idea! But I won't be surprised when it goes pop. That one is a 5.7. Now they're starting to give everyone 6.4's, and one guy has 202k on his. Again it idles, a LOT, and ticks and makes some odd noises, but it's still going, for now. He's due a new truck, he inherited the one he has. Know of one 5.7 that had to be replaced, I'm sure there's been more. They auction them off at 200k+, I guess to avoid any major issues. Ticking Time Bombs! Nice if you can get one cheap enough and then swap the engine, but I don't know what they sell for.
I’ve been watching for a while now and I’m always watching with an eye toward simplicity and reliability. This engine seems like one of the most straightforward designs that I’ve seen on the channel while still making serious modern power.
I think they have oiling issues in the design
They are super simple, easy to work on engines. The 6.4 has that EGR and cooler but other then that this is nicely designed engine, with high quality gaskets and seals. And cylinder heads that flow 340cfm stock!!! No expensive direct injection components too. Put a more aggressive camshaft in it and some valve springs and it will make 550+hp
It's FCA. It's design to fail
It has major oiling issues. Do not by a Hemi powered vehicle.
@@mann_idonotreadreplies Did you know the GM 5.3 because of all the problems & lawsuites, they don't make it anymore. Oh, its made by GM. You understand ????
Meticulously removing the hose clamps, then cutting that hose. Gets me every time ;-)
Saving the hose clamps. Valuable hardware 😊
Is anybody old enough to remember when windage trays were exotic?
Yep.
I think they were used in the late 60s ? I remember reading about them in the car mags. I'm 79 and I love this stuff!
NASCAR stuff! 😎😅
I'm old enough to have never seen one except on youtube. And having one permanently connected to the oil pan gasket is the OEM guys putting it to the purchaser!!
@@TCW-hw6iwI’m old enough to remember there was no such thing in ANY oil pan gasket, TH-cam, internet didn’t exist yet & I added one into a twin turbo charged 5.0 (push rod) Mustang engine back in 1993 or so. Along with a crank oil scraper.
I like the subtle comedy of going through pulling the clamps and then just cutting the hoses. Solid.
I'm just one of those YT observers of videos like this. It's part of my affliction, these fascinate me. Always have. From when I was 14 and putting together a small block Chevy from a box of parts, to my last days as a GM tech and later as a machine shop guy. Interesting that so many late model vehicles have lifter issues, rockers too. Might come down to the increased recommendations of oil change intervals. And we know many owners don't follow them. Although this Hemi was rather clean inside, His suggestion about the idle issues and lubrication might be right on. Thanks.
Love the failure analysis on these engines. I've always been a big fan of changing the oil in all of my cars, and this confirms my fetish for doing so. Thanks, Eric!
I am on my 2nd 6.4l work truck and the engines have been very good. 2018 is about to hit 200k miles (hard work miles) and now in a 2024 just hit 12k miles. Transmission in the 2024 the 8 speed is much better than the one on my 2018 I can say that much. Sad to see them go away.
Just bought a 24 6.4 looking forward to it going to work
This popped into my feed after refreshing for 5 hrs after work! It just popped up 9hrs after you released it you tube needs to get better!
What? The video is 2 hours old. The same as your comment.
This video came out as I was literally putting back together my 392 6.4 Hemi last weekend! Thanks for the teardown! It makes me feel much better about the state of my 6.4 ;)
This issue persists till at least the 2021 models. Cam replacements are often and expensive enough that its makes more sense to replace the engine with the Jasper modified 6.4, with the oiling problems resolved. I see this issue at 60-80k miles on all of the ambulances I maintain and is from idling at 20-25psi of oil pressure. Our solution for the time being is 15w40.
I own a 2022 Ram 1500 with the HEMI. At 32,000 it started to develop a cold start tick that went away within just a couple of seconds, as soon as oil pressure came up. I immediately changed from the recommended 0w20 to 5w30. The cold start tick immediately went away. At 49,000 miles now, the cold start tick has not returned, and surprisingly, the fuel mileage has not changed. It is still 21-23 mpg on the highway!
The moral of the story is use the proper weight oil, and don’t let the truck idle for any appreciable amount of time!
I have an 05 5.7 (different generation but similar) I run 10w30 diesel oil in mine and never had the "hemi tick" issue at all sence switching. And also 1 extra quart of oil. My truck lives at 4000+ rpm for an hour at a time and they have an issue with sucking the pan dry at higher prolonged rpm.
@@bigblockjess617 that’s good to know. I take it you tow heavy with yours?
@@91CavGT5 yes. And do the occasional truck pull.
Why in the sweet lord would I purchase a truck that I can’t idle?! My Tundra 5.7 would idle for hours every day as it was also used as my mobile office. 300k miles and a ton of idle time, no tick, no oil consumption. Why people keep buying these Rams will never cease to amaze me. There are much better options folks.
@@hokie9910 Let's see you use that thing for more than office.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE when you take the clamps off carefully and then cut the hose. Even when I know it's coming, I laugh out loud. Keep doing what you do man. Love the content.
I'm just waiting for him to attack the dipstick tube with bolt cutters!
It's a bummer when yards cut the hoses. I end up reusing the customers heater hose that has 200k on it instead of the nice 50k mile hoses that could have come with the used engine.
This is my Saturday night special.
After our catastrophic failures with Fords, we've been shifting our fleet to Rams and we have five 390ci (6.4s) and have tore them all down and replaced the oil pumps with Mellings 10452, so far 2 of them have gone over 170K after rebuilt no issues, always wondered if this could be the main issue.
Eric, you have confirmed that I have indeed, not wasted resources by adhering to established oil change intervals. I have driven a lifetime without an oil-related failure. Thanks for all the insight you provide to car guys and gals.
Ive been waiting for one of these forever! Just to chime in, the splash lube was a myth started by uncle tony because he thought the lifters weren't oiled on their own, he assumed they relied on splash lube, and the internet ran with it. But the lifters have a direct oil path through the rocker, down the push rods to the lifters. Chrysler's issue with lifters has been an ongoing issue, just like GM, because the design is picky.
Like you know, Pushrod V8's at modern tolerances HAVE to have good quality CLEAN oil. the lifters have gone through numerous redesigns over the last few decades (indicated by the last two characters). AA is a first design, AB is a redesign of the part, AC and so on. I believe the lifter in this truck was an AA, and the part is now on an AD redesign.
So overall we've got a few issues going on. 1. Quality control issues with cam hardness and lifter tolerances 2. Maintenance intervals being taken too far, and 3.the EVIC not properly taking idle time into account for oil change intervals.
The 6.4 Hemi has been out for 10 years now, and the 5.7 over 20, if we had a design flaw on our hands, we would have almost every single truck fail by this point. But ive seen these trucks with literally thousands of idle hours on them. My personal truck is a 21 2500, with around 1000 hours of idle time. If you want them to last, change the oil often and you'll be totally fine. They do break, just like everything does, but they're great engines.
All cars suck.
Do you think that if the heads, lifters and cams used a separate oil system to the crank, that it could fix the issue, since there wouldn't be as much combustion products in the head oil. I have been considering this idea for ohc engines, but i think it would be possible in an ohv, if the block was engineered with a sealed partition around the cam, and an extra oil pump for the heads.
Yep. I agree. That uncle Tony crap theory/misinformation has been spread all over the internet. I don't buy any of it. Either put a high volume oil pump on it, or don't idle it, but you just HAVE to keep the oil clean. Top tier synthetic oil & top tier oil filters are always key. I HIGHLY recommend oil filter magnets to catch the ferrous "dust" circulating in the oil, too. That & cutting your old oil filters apart would give you some warnings as to what is happening internally.
Cool story bro
@nacho all FCA sucks.
Amen, they suck the money right out of your wallet and the sanity right out of your brain.
Love watching you tear these down. I’m actually finding myself knowing what I’m looking at under the hood! And your sense of humor rocks! Thanks for doing what you do!
Our 2019 6.4l plow truck idles alot. 10,000 miles. 1700 hours idle. 1200 hours driving. Its missing on 2 cylinders. It has had only 3 oil changes.... My 2020 5.7L 1/2 ton has 45k miles and 300 idle and 1400 driving. Thats with 6 oil changes. Zero issues.
i had a bronco, 351c, best engine ever. owned for 21 yrs, bought 2nd hand. on lpg for 25 yrs. i fitted 302c heads, 12.1 comp. no cam. went like a cut cat & thrashed regular, work truck.. but, oil change every 3 months, even if it sat there.. sold couple months back, no issues.. clevo, best engine ever built.. 350 chev, garbage..
I crank mine in flood mode because my 6.4L sits a lot. Oil analysis came back excellent with 106k miles on my 2017.
How do you crank it in flood mode? We have a 2018 Ram 2500 with 6.4 hemi. I change the oil every 3k with Amsoil.
@KevinGentry-o6k Turn the key on like normal, but hold gas pedal to the floor. It turns off the fuel injectors, while building oil pressure. You can also reset the throttle position sensor by opening the key without turning on, while slowly pressing the gas pedal, hold for 20 seconds and slowly release. After turn the key off and fire up like normal.
@ thanks. 🙏 I hope that helps save our engine.
Common failure point. The valvetrain is at 180 deg instead of 120 or 90 deg in other v8s and there's no lifter valley to provide lubrication to the cam and lifters so they will sieze up and fail over time. The LS has a similar problem. There was a very good reason for the lifter valley in traditional V8 designs. Modern engineers seem to have forgotten that's how you lube the lifters and cam.
My Saturday is now officially complete.
Please please do a Ford 6.7 Powerstroke
the petrol,?. have 2 different heads, i think the left one shts, needs fixing from new.. bet he never does an f250 mwm sprint 4.2tdi.. brazilian ford.. ausie.. mine has 700nm..no computer..
Another entertaining teardown show in the books. Appreciate you man.
14:08 Did anyone notice that when Eric threw the head gasket into the air, it just vanished? It never hit the ground again. 😮 Maybe he threw it so hard it went into orbit. Thanks, Eric. It's not like we have enough useless junk just floating around up there. Now you have to add to it.
I think you can build parts credits for catching the video glitches
I did not know these had twin-sparkplugs. Apparently you can learn new things every day. Huge valves on those heads.
Yeah, both times I've bought plugs for mine the kid at the counter has said "you have TWO of these trucks?"
yep i found that out when i changed mine. pre-gapped so no gapping tool needed. after seeing the size of the lifters i know why it only get 13 mpg. Use OEM spec oil and change every 5k miles on it for regular use and the engine will hum.
That green and black vibration dampener puller is "the right" puller.
Remove the hook pins, place the hooks facing outward inside the small holes of the dampener, reattach the hooks to the center, and pull.
Thank you for the Hemi teardown.
That Hemi engine had enough buildup that it was obvious that the oil was neglected to some degree (yeah, we've all seen worse). This channel has made me into an oil change fanatic. It's a pretty reasonable cost compared to a new engine.
Every time I watch a video like this, it gives me an itch to change my oil, antifreeze, and transmissions fluid.
@@skylinefever Same!
My heart sank right along with yours seeing that bearing.. hope the crank is salvageable. Great video as always man
Actually, the afm causes alot of headaches with lifters, but usually it's the operators fault for extended oil change intervals, 3k that's it and only high quality synthetic oils throughout the vehicle! Also most engine rebuilders and machine shops recommend the hellcat oil pump or the melling HV pump upon rebuild, this seems to solve any further reliable problems for all the Hemi line. 5.7s get the HV pump and the big bad Hemis get the hellcat pump with afm delete and vvt delete. Problem solved👍
Or one could just buy a truck without needing to worry about any of these idiotic design deficiencies.
@@hokie9910 that sure as hell wasnt Toyota last year.
Toyota on their worst year is still….fill in the blank….than the domestics on their best year
@hokie9910 not anymore.
I like these engines despite thier problems. I feel that every modern engine has thier inherent problems. Sometimes you get lucky and go 200k. Sometimes not and dont make it pass the dealers lot. Its a crapshoot. Great tear down though. Loved it. Can't believe it has two sparkplugs per cylinder. Kind like the old 2.5 4 cylinder in the Ranger. 😊
Try tin snips on the filter seam to open the filter. Just cut it off at the seam by hand
I just turn the filter upside down over a clean bowl. It leaks out just fine and I don't get cut.
That sound loosening bolts sped up is comforting 😳
I LOL'd for real when you cut the hoses after taking the clamps off. Thanks Eric.
I have a 2021 Ram 6.4 with 120K miles. Always use synthetic 10W40 oil and change it every 6K miles, never let it idle more than 15 minutes. Confident that I will get 300K miles out of it
Another great video Eric. Thanks for the info. You and your family take care and be safe.
Had lifter failure in my 2014 Ram 2500 with the same engine. Glad I replaced it with a new one, but ouch on the replacement cost. Thanks Eric! Mine had the failure at 117K in 2023, I treated it right but it was a used truck when I got it in 2020 with 77K on it, so didn't have a history on it. Seeing what had happened to the main bearings on this engine makes me think about how bad the ones in my failed engine might have looked.
Chrysler could just install some extra nozzles on those piston oil squirters that fog the cam and the underside of the lifters with a light mist of oil, and would probably go a very long way to solving this problem.
@Turnipstalk I haven’t been hands on with every version of the 2009 and up 5.7 or the 6.4 Hemi’s to know for sure, however to my knowledge none of the different versions of the 5.7 ever had piston oil squirters. This engine and I assume all the SRT versions of the 6.4 would appear to have them, and a little research (mostly just consulting a few videos from the Reignited Cycle & Automotive channel) indicates to me that the 2009+ 5.7’s and the 6.4’s share the same volume oil pump, they at least have the same thickness of the pump gears, if not the same pump outright, and all the Hemi’s appear to share the same windage parts.
If it were up to me I would just ensure that any redesign of the piston oil squirters would flow the same amount as the current ones, just redirect some of that flow, ideally just a light mist away from the underside of the pistons and towards the lifters which clearly would make better use of it.
I put 135,000 miles on a 2012 5.7 liter Hemi with absolutely no tick. I now have 17,000 miles on my 2022 6.4 Hemi and I will continue to get regular oil changes with it just as with the 5.7. Hopefully I can avoid this problem.
Change your oil pump to the hellcat model but keep the regular spring to maintain the normal pressure. You will get better FLOW.
I bought a 14 Ram with a lifter noise from an auction! One lifter was compressed a 1/4 inch! Cam was like brand new! While cranking the engine with the valve cover off, the oil was squirting on the injectors, that seems pretty good! I heard that Dodge used a cheaper manufacturer of lifters and cams for a few years! My new lifters were made in Germany, and my cam came from Mexico, so I guess that’s good! 😊
Finally, someone stating facts about why the lifters fail instead of just jumping to an uneducated opinion blaming the MDS! The manual trans HEMI's also had this issue.
I thought it was more the GM engines that suffered from that? I always thought the needle bearings in the lifters themselves going bad caused Hemi problems.
It almost as if there is more than one cause of failure!
PS MDS (mopar)/AFM (GM)/VCM (honda) is the work of the devil and causes multiple problems for all brands
If only it was true, if the angle and oil pressure mattered older Hemi engines would have the same issues. But the lifters didn't really become an issue until the 2011 model year.
Didn't Chrysler upgrade the oil pump too? There is a brand of lifters that use brass bushings instead of needle bearings, I wonder if that would be a good replacement
Even when a hemi mds lifter fails, its almost never the extra parts related to the mds. Its always the roller/needle bearings. I think it's simply a quality control/manufacturing issue related to metallurgy/heat treating of the roller and or needle bearings. The '08 and previous hemi's didn't have this issue in large numbers and they had the same valve train geometry. It's documented that the oem lifter supplier changed in '09
Skimping on heat treating is also the reason these engines break exhaust studs when the cast iron manifolds warp. I think they started doing too much cost/process engineering and it backfired.
One factor my theory doesn't explain is why it's so common that cylinder 5 and 7 lifters fail. I've seen failures on each cylinder at one time or another, but 5 and 7 are the most common
I actually was impressed with this engine, except for the lifter problem getting proper lubrication, it was better that expected. Timing area was way better than a Ford with 2, 2 mile long chains and guides, not a big fan of that. Also, not a 2 piece block like some of the European models, not a big fan of that either. Great video Eric, I enjoy these every Sunday.
Chrysler put out a bulletin a while back to check the VVT solenoid for metal shavings. If it's clean you are safe to replace cam and lifters, if it has shavings it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
My VVT solenoid was clean, however the whole cam was ruined and cam bearings are ruined. It will need all new bearings everywhere and probably pistons and rings as well. Oil used was full synthetic, 5000-5500 kms oil change intervals. 185,000 kms.
@@jeffmiller2433 that's pretty unusual in my experience, but there is always an exception. I did have one that needed an oil pump with the cam. VVT solenoid was clean and there was nothing bad in the oil pan.
@@agateforghosts291I wish mine was that easy. I already have a new upgraded oil pump ready without even looking at the old one. Oil pan and filter have lots of glitter. I’m hoping the cylinders will be ok.
@@jeffmiller2433 definitely hard to say without looking at it but I'd say there's still hope. The block is a pretty stout iron compound and I regularly see the factory crosshatch intact at high mileage, so your chances are pretty good.
@@agateforghosts291hope so, won’t know till 2nd week in July, when the machine shop is back from holidays.
I worked at a trailer shop a few years ago. The boss was trying to get a few trucks on the lot and bought 2015 Ram 2500 6.4. It had a check engine light indicating a misfire on cyl 3. Tried replacing or bouncing everything associated to cylinder 3. One day I did a search for the code it was throwing. The most common result for it was the lifter issue. Told the boss, he had already arranged for the truck to go over to the mechanic that was changing out the rear end (yes, it was a problem too, and that mechanic found the sparkles. New engine, new rear end, and a flatbed later the boss kept the truck for his own use last I heard on it.
The sad thing is, Boss knew the owner, the owner took it exclusively to the Ram dealer he bought it from so we had the records. 150k-ish miles and we were the first ones to change fluids other than engine oil.
I started to wonder if this was that engine, but we didn't go back in with Bosch plugs.
Blue to the rescue!! 10:52
Good evening Eric. Another exciting Saturday night with the master of breakdown.
Good evening everyone. Another great video.
When the main bearings are damaged, but the rod bearings are not, this can point to a problem with low oil pressure at idle. At very low rpm, main bearings are more sensitive to low pressure than rod bearings, whereas the opposite is true at higher rpm. An oil pump pressure relief valve sticking open will cause low oil pressure at idle, but won't reduce oil pressure very much at higher rpm when the relief valve should be at least partially open anyway. If the engine did have a problem with low oil pressure at idle, that may have caused the lifters to fail as well.
I’ve noticed after looking inside all these engines that you have disassembled is that most of the car makers are copying each other. Nearly all of them use an oil pump mounted to the front of the crank, most of them use a similarly designed lifter tray instead of the old dog bone style, and they have all gone to deep skirt blocks instead of like the old engines where half of the crankshaft was above the oil pan surface.
Engineers, monkey see monkey do
in the begining,,there were 3 engineers at 1 car company, they had an argument as to how things should be built, so they split, to other manufacturers..hence, certain things are similar. but, clevo wins. with design.. fit a cam, drive, job done.. no need for speed shop..like gm, & some dodge engines.. chev, allways make the cheapest crap.. instead of going from the 350 to the new LS. they had 200 variants.. then went to lotus, to find out how to build an engine. which, if you look, is very similar to a ford FE..1950..
Yes we have reached a point in design and engineering where most companies have come to the same conclusion on what works and what doesn't. Alot of this comes from the LS research and some European and Asian stuff prior to that.
@@harrywalker968Lotus engine? You mean the LT5 from the C4 ZR1? How does that bear any resemblance to the Ford FE?
it's cheaper to mount the oil pump on the crank because there's no need to put a gear on the crank to drive it, saves machining two gears, one for the pump and one for the crank.
The crank is machinable. Use a tripod style hone to hone the cylinders, not a ball type hone. The cylinders will clean up using a medium grit stone. New cam is needed, as you said. Heads look good, but I would get them faced to be on the safe side. You can turn that into a ten k engine with no problem at all.
If you let it idle. It kills it faster. Oiling issues.
The first hemi I saw was 2004. I was in Atlanta at the time . I put 100,000 miles on it and sold it. I will admit it was ticking at the time. The damage you saw tells me you are right. I bet it sit idling a lot. I have a 2012 5.7 now with only 104,000 miles and going strong.
Another awesome video to wind down my crappy day.
As soon as i saw the shot lifters, that reminded me of my 05 6.0L Powerstroke where i was cruising down the road and suddenly oil light came on and oil press went to zero; I didn't stop, i kept going for another mile to my friends garage, it ran fine but after turning it off, no start, no oil press. Turned out the 2 rear lifter rollers fell apart and needle bearings conquered the crankcase and the oil pump. Luckily that 1 mile drive didn't do more damage than the 265K miles! After a new cam, 2 rollers, front engine cover and $4,500 later it drives strong again; Well, st least until the next needle destroys it!
As for this 6.4L, 50+ years of engine evolution and this 392 makes almost equal power to a 1970s 396 chevy big block. Very sad to see how not much has changed.. One would assume that 50 years would propel this 392 to at least double the HP from the factory!
Supercharger or turbocharger would be the way to much better horsepower at low cost?
The MDS kills timing chains. Light oil kills lifters.
synthetic is crap..
@@harrywalker968 so what oil should I put in my 76 Corvette 5.7 currently on 5/30 fully synthetic ? Just got it
@@garypeatling7927Harry rides the bus.
He is right about the cams. I look at them frequently with service contract claims. It is as though it isn't hardened steel.
As someone who had to replace all the roller rockers on his 3.6, and then saw this, what's with Chrysler and their needle bearings?
Exactly, it really appears to be a needle bearing quality control issue.
I'm starting to think QC on All bearings is sh*t these days. Just replaced the diff on my F150 at only 50k miles. The Tech said the side bearings let go and introduced metal into the pinion, ring and spiders. I only hope they put better ones back in... next time won't be on warranty.
Take a closer look at that ProTec "Wix" filter. That brand consists entirely of Purolator filters with "Wix" stickers on them. The same goes for "Bosch" filters. The ProTec PXL57060 and Bosch 3334 are both based on the Purolator L12222. I think the Quaker State QS45518 is also the same filter, as are some store branded filters.
It surprises me that the 6.4 Hemi can make over 400 HP with exhaust manifolds that look so restrictive.
and rust out in a couple of years.
@@christopherweise438- Really? 8 years and 110k, haven’t had an issue… But a couple years huh?
you need big in small out.. only 1/3rd goes out that comes in.. plus, theres gaps between exhaust gases. at least there not gm simese ports, from flintstone era..they almost built a decent engine, 454, but compared to the 460, its still lacks..
@@donleamon8653 - It was a plow truck. Up here in the salt belt (Wisconsin) nothing lasts forever, but i had a HEMI that needed manifolds after 2 years.
@@christopherweise438that’s a chevy problem
Great video. I've been hearing thru the Hemi community that if you change the brand and viscosity of oil early enough it solves the "Hemi Tick"
Those 6.4 truck engine look to be pretty well made for a stellantis product.
The engine predates fiat(stellantis is a name change that sounds classier and dumps chrysler out of the name) and it is more profitable to leave it alone
I had every issue you could have with these. Even replaced the lifters with Hellcat lifters. Those also failed... the amount of glitter in the oil also took the mains with it.
Yeah, it’s really a horrible design. Oiling issues for decades with these Hemi engines. So many better options.
Many 6.4 Hemi owners have gone well over 150,000 miles with no issues what so ever. It's not a bad engine. This channel specifically reviews replaced engines so of course all the engines he tears down are going to have issues.
@@hokie9910 Like what exactly? The lifters on the GM small block engines fail just as much in fact probably even more.
In some service vehicles they put more oil in because of a long time running the engine on idle,but not everyone knows this.
Such a simple engine for a company to really mess up!
The orange colored main bearing is for the MDS when it starts back up it puts a lot of pressure on that one so it's made out of a different material.
I’d like to see Eric doing a video of PUTTING AN ENGINE BACK TOGETHER AGAIN…and all that it entails…😊
That would be interesting to say the least
That one might be coming soon as a collaboration with Rainman Ray's Repairs
@@Blackout_1692
That’d work nicely
@@dirtfarmer7472 if you go over to Ray's channel you'll find a series of videos on a White T&C that is owned by a family that had some health issues, the van needed a new motor so what Ray decided to do is team up with Eric find a new motor for this van and give it back to them for free
Very rare theres a bad bottom end on any Hemi, they are extremely strong and built and designed for high horsepower. Almost all the failures ive seen are top end oiling, head gaskets, seat drops, etc. All of these can be prevented by proper fluid change intervals. 3k max oil change, and all other fluids n filters at factory intervals. Every Dodge ive ever worked on the last 50 years has been abused, and maintenence neglected with crap oil and clogged oilways, filters that weigh a ton when removed etc. Customers fault even with AFM. Ive seen these engines with well over 300k that run like new because the customer actually took care of maintence diligently, they are not bad engines, they are fantastic engines.
Using light oil - as recommended by MOPAR= lifter failure - testing oil (for bearing material) has PROVEN 4x more wear during startup when using light oil (that drips RIGHT off everything) -vs- 'normal' oil, like 20W50.... I may switch my hemi to straight weight, probably 40W, more research first - may settle with 20W50, BUT, my car NEVER needs the 'W' oil, living in the garage 7 months a year in Michigan...
Try searching 'Lake Speed Jr' here on TH-cam, you'll learn a few things about oil that you obviously don't know. I think his channel is 'The Oil Geek'.
I'm happy for you that you "think" you know more than the engineers who designed this engine. It's good that I read posts like yours because I always get a good chuckle from them.
@@joeblowe7545 I can understand the sentiment but if the engineering design was better then there wouldn't be so many stories about lifter problems. If these engines didn't suffer failures before 200k miles then people would not be trying these homebrew oil solutions.
@@stingrayl82 - The engineers didn't make that decision - the bean counters did, due to government regulations on fuel economy. MOST of them got to the end of warranty BEFORE eating up lifter roller bearings. Perhaps you should get an education BEFORE pretending to know anything about engines.
@@DaveyHo69 lol, my comment was taking your side, genius.
a couple pro shops have found a reliable solution for the long idling /oil issue... I haven't verified, but supposedly, the Hellcat Oil Pump is a direct bolt on for the 5.7 & the 6.4 .... it's not so much about pressure, the stock 6.4 oil pump is around 53-56psi...and around 32 at idle... but.. the hellcat oil pump has more Volume.... and that additional volume of oil movement does the same as keeping a higher rpm at keeping sufficient oil on the upper end... not everyone wants to have a high idle/ more fuel consumption etc... so looking into upgrading to the hellcat higher volume oil pump seems to be a good answer & had good results so far...
I own a 2009 hemi 215k on it. I was warned when I bought it not to let it idle for very long. I do not understand why dodge doesn't have this motor programmed to bump the idle after a designated idle period. WE have computers on board that could do that.
Why would you buy a truck that you’ve been warned not to idle? To me that says, RUN AWAY
currently getting a new engine on a 2020 ram 2500 6.4 under warranty at 51k miles .. dropped 2 lifters took out all the bearings.. Mahle HV oil pump and M1 5w50 oil in the desert summers, M1 0w40 in the winters once the new engine is out of warranty!
I can't believe it's a 6.4 hemi 2valve with two plugs per cylinder
Why? They have been around for almost 15 years. Were you just born?
It's a truck engine. Did you want DOHC and 4 valves?
@@christopherweise438yes , all powertrains must only be Lincoln Navigators
Well in the SRT application that 6.4 makes as much power as the AMG 6.2 with four cams, and 32 valves and more complexity and cost than is needed. So the win goes to Dodge for mass producing an absolute monster of an engine that makes such power. AMG head bolts up to 2014 fail, and AMG lifters fail - like the Dodge - but there are twice as many of them, and three times as many cams, so the cost in parts exceed the price of a new long block crate engine from Dodge.
i cant believe chev never woke up to new tech.. ie. 350. jesus yr to 2001.. same sht..
You need to offer and patent an auxiliary oiling system for the rollers. An add-on above the valve covers with jets to keep them lubricated at idle.
My cousin Danny Mihok is an AC tech out in Phoenix and was so proud of his 392 Challenger and telling me all about how it could beat my '14 Cayman S on a track [Not likely since the Cayman S can run 7:40 Nordschleife times and run a mid 12 at 115 mph in the quarter on the drag strip], but then one day it overheated on him and before he could get it shut off it dropped a valve seat and destroyed the engine. Not good, since it was out of warranty.
Meanwhile, my 9A1 3.4 liter flat 6 just sings to me every day and can turn 12 second quarter mile times....
😁
My company has close to 100x 2018 Ram 2500 with the 6.4L and the lifters die somewhere right around 100k. Granted our trucks have above average idle hours, but its very consistently 90-110k miles. Transmissions dies right around the same mileage.
Edit to add, these trucks get the oil checked daily and the oil changed every 5000 miles.
All of the Hemis in our Ram 2500 work trucks go bad pretty quickly. We have a lot of idle time and these engines eat themselves alive.
Interestingly enough, tuning in 200 more RPM at idle keeps the engines from eating themselves.
@@thegrey8643 Likely a bit of 'splash lubrication' going on, i.e. the crankshaft spinning at higher speed flings oil onto the cam and lifters which keeps them alive. Same reason they say to break in new cams at 2000 rpm on old pushrod V8s.
@@nerd1000ify Exactly. Im not surprised after opening a few of them up, that the solution was pretty simple though. Just 200 more RPM at idle in the software. Another easy trick to Deactivate the MDS system that turns off cylinders is to trick the vehicle into thinking its hooked to a trailer, towing.
I really liked this tear down and especially the point about raising the idle speed. Today's engines especially diesels should be bumped up by 100 rpm and gasoline engines by 50-75 for better lubrication! Over the lifetime of an engine running at a higher rpm, might cost you an additional 20-30 dollars more in petrol but compared to thousands of dollars for a replacement engine, well I'd say the choice is like the advertisement with Charles Barkley in it ! ! ! I've always run mine higher due to my days with both big and small diesels and all their long idle periods... I'm just saying
Bigger HEMI size, same HEMI issues. Lifters strike again.
This video is great proof that if your lifters fail, then you can’t just replace the lifters and cam. Engine needs a full once over. Including main bearings.
wouldnt be surprised if this was from a fleet truck
Now this was a good tear-down. It showed that you cannot just change a few parts and leave an engine running. It would have grenaded later on down the road. Thank You.
Why don't they put the oil filter before the oil pump?
Filter on suction side starves pump and creates aerated oil. When engine is cold and oil thick filter needs to bypass and that reduces flow path and worsens suction load of pump. If they put filter on oil pump inlet and a failing roller lifter failed and clogged the filter, you'd still have bearings that bit the dust.
@@jimmyaber5920 Makes sense 🙂
i picked up my 2011 1500 with 173k Miles with a 5.7 Hemi in sept of 2023 (crazy good deal and i needed a vehicle), around 9 months and 10k miles later I Noticed a very loud chirping sound coming from the engine after cold starting it. After driving for around 20 miles it didn't get any louder or quieter so I Had it taken to my mechanic and i was able to get away with just replacing cam and lifters. So far around 6k more miles and I've tried to limit my idle time and I'm going to start doing oil changes ever 3k instead of 5k. I caught it day one (I think) so I'm hoping to get another 170K out of the ol'e girl before she gets retired as a backup.
Long story short. This issue is way more common than i originally thought and my wallet hurts...
My thoughts on all hemi engines is that they should have a code in their ECM that will rev the engine after it has idled for a given amount of time. Oil pressure would go up and lubricate the parts that fail with extended idling. I have this engine in my Power Wagon and take care not to let it idle at low rpms for extended times. So far it has been a great engine.
Or, Chrysler could engineer an engine.. that can idle lol. Yes I know, "Chrysler" and "acceptable engineering" are mutually exclusive 😂
The engine is junk
@@Drmcclung LOL. Chrysler can most certainly engineer an engine. The 5.9L Magnum (aka LA 360 V8) that preceded the Gen3 Hemi didn't have this problem. As will all other manufactures, the bean counters run the company these days
I agree, there is a a lot of idle rpm tuning available in the PCM, but just not that. I've bumped mine up for various scenarios where I'd want to sit and idle. Like with the AC on or when it's cold out.
The closest is there's a setting to change idle RPM based on intake air temps. It's really hot idle that's the issue, sitting on a hot day running the AC. As said not only can the idle be increased just for having the AC on. But if the intake air temps get high, which would be an indicator of the hot engine compartment of a stationary vehicle, the idle can be increased as well.
@@philbrutsche8928 the 5.9 magnum makes NO power, weighs as much as a Yugo, you're lucky to get 14mpg out of one, has a nasty habit of locking up. Even Mopar guys hate the 360 lol
My work truck had same Cam and Lifter issue. Dealer charged 10k to fix. Could have done crate engine for less $$ but from 84k to 127k still runs quiet and strong