Inspiring video! The one thing I didn't see, was removal of the rosin flux after soldering. Rosin has some impedance when it solidifies and can change circuit characteristics and possibly add extra load to the transmitter. So right after the solder solidifies, wipe the joint off with a q-tip dipped in alcohol. 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store is fine. That removes the rosin the easiest since the solder joint is still warm. I would recommend using 63/37 solder over 60/40 for the fine soldering done in the rc world. Rosin core is more for large wires. Water soluble fluxes available in the 63/37 solders make cleanup so much easier and greatly reduce the risk of loading the circuit.
Peter is great on the show, I love the stuff he's bringing to Flite Test recently with more electronics and rockets! I think Peter needs to put aside a few nights practicing presentation though. He's often quite nervous on camera and his presentation of steps for complex things doesn't seem as polished and practiced as it could be. With a bit of practice though, I can see him bringing back what I was missing since David has left! Thanks for bringing him on the show more, I've been enjoying all the DIY electronics stuff!
Hey amazing people! This needs a refresh. I was all set to throw down the clams for this but parts have been discontinued and now there is even a smaller camera!!! Can you refresh this project?
@ 9:25 Josh justifiably corrects Peter to NOT USE CA in this application. There is a VERY good chance of fogging the sensor, the inside of the lens or the outside of the lens. And if you ever want to change lenses you're going to be pretty much out of luck.
Seriously guys way too cool thanks for posting all the links on how to do it, i had a terrible time sourcing 3 V components, gave up had to work, thanks and great videos of FPV
Hi I'm so glade you guys did this video! That was my intro to FPV Flying! First I had this set up in a Hubsan X4, not so happy with the Hubsan. But now I've got it strapped to my trusty old Hobbyking Mini Swift, and it's a BLAST! Damn thats fun, and I got about 500-600 meter out of it, with the Wire Antenna AND just a cheap as chips RX with the standart Antenna on it... Damn good fun! I just the 5v Version as well, due to the specs it's quite well suited for a 1S set up. As a Cam I used a cheap Hobbyking Cam. I've you guys are back in Germany again, I would love to meet and fly with you!!
Why do you have one Cloverleaf Omni Antenna and one "normal" antenna on there? Thought the Omni outperforms the "normal" one? Why not go for two Omni in a 90° to each other so the two "donuts" get you an nearly all around and up and down reception? :)
Have you ever tried to put two cams on a plane with the right (or decreased for more immersion) eye distance for a 3D view? Are there even goggles that allow to easily show different video for each eye?
Great video! Are there any videos going over the receiver setup? Looks pretty nifty. I definitely would use that setup for a rover project I am working on ...
ha you guys saved me a lot of freakin money I was just about to go trade in my Ares q 130 for a Ares FPV that would have cost me another $200 thanks again guys
You can fix the camera lens adjustment with liquid electric tape. Great stuff! Not to mention sealing every connection and securing connectors to each other and or to the board or airframe.
Looks like fun...and here are a couple of hints from an old guy on soldering detailed work: Find and use small gauge 63/37 (not 60/40) rosin core solder, and clamp the workpiece lightly in a Panavise or similar with rubber pads on the jaws. Add a worklight and maybe a magnifier and you're good to go...
Shout out to peter. I met ya down in panama city beach . I was doing fire inspections at a hotel and walk into a room filled with rc lol. I was like I need to have out with these guys . Nice build man I'm gona try this
Great video as usual guys. I have a motor question, I want to build a large quad and am very confused about motor choice what is a good motor to list a quad with about a 20 inch motor to motor?
I like this tiny FPV camera, I'll probably build one once I get a copter capable of carrying it. How about a DIY micro gimbal to mount this to? Would be awesome to have a tiny, mechanically stabilized FPV camera which I built myself.
omfg no way i have been waiting on this, or a similar review for ages :D I have just bought the Spektrum Ultra Micro FPV Camera and vTX kit for 99 bucks! Can't wait for it to arrive and put on my T-28 UM
You *NEED* to prove that you know something. When was the last time someone applied to be a brain surgeon claiming they know how to operate via " learning it from the internet"?
Awesome ... making one asap.. this is perfect for smaller projects where rabge issnt much of an issue.. I'll still stick to a small clover.. but its great Pieter!!!
Hi guys I'm going to be buying a plane soon and don't know what to get. I'm going to spending $250 max for now and going to upgrade to fpv later. I'm thinking about getting the Ft Racer but my brother says I should get the tbs wing that starts c (don't know how to spell it). I really don't know if a wing without fpv will be fun. If you have any suggestions on what plane I should bet please tell me
You should ask your question in the FliteTest Forum, there are some friendly folks that can help you out and learn more about you and what you really need.
I have been an R.C flier for over 15 years . here are my tips.. go for the basic bixler it is cheap and easily repaired ,EPO foam is fantastic and simple to fix …YOU WILL CRASH . also try and get a 2.4 ghz radio . buy a 6 or 7 channel as you will not need to upgrade later .. My biggest tips are to get someone who already flies rc to be there to help you build it ( note COG ) and also be there for your first flight ..get a simulator … read as much info on flying and read it again …. fly in open space without houses trees and other obstacles .. remember we are here to help .. if in doubt ask !!! may the force be with you!, Barry
Yeah but that's over 250 easily^^ go for a bix 3, you can fpv upgrade, it's a beginner and can be easily repaired plus you can do candy drops in the future lol
Great Video. Looks good. I just started flying FPV with the Nano QX and have traveled around the house and outside in the yard. I believe the QX FPV only has a 25mW transmitter so 200 Mw would be a significant improvement on range I would think. I wonder how this would work on a Hubsan X4. I havent seen any info on others modding that quad, but I am sure they are out there and that it has been done. The X4 seems like a great platform as it can lift quite a bit and I love the 10 minute flight times with the 500 mAh packs. Any thoughts on this?
+cheeriomartinez Soldering tips are nickel plated so that the tip doesn't oxidize when it gets so hot. Use a damp sponge to wipe the tip off. A damp paper towel works in a pinch.
Very nice job :) It's a pretty cool way for saving a lot of money! Very easy, just some soldering skills are required but nothing impossible. 5 stars video guys, Peter is definitely the man of the week ;) Thanks for sharing
To step it up, you could mount a gyro on the goggle and have 2 servos control the cameras for a virtual reality experience. I have seen someone do this with 1 camera and arduino electronics..
I think Peter's remorse over getting the 5v module (instead of the 3.3v) was unfounded - he was actually right the first time! I was just re-reading the specs, and the 5v module IS the 3.3v module with an LDO regulator onboard. Thus It will happily work from 5v down to 3.4-ish volts. HOWEVER if you order the 3.3v module and you don't have an external regulator then a regular LiPo (at 4.2v fully charged) will probably BLOW THE MODULE. (I suspect. It exceeds spec. anyway) So the 5v module should be read "AT LEAST 3.5v" and the 3.3v module should be labelled "NEVER MORE than 3.3v". Anyone want to double-check that?
"quite hot" in the english sense? (as in "I say, this boiling oil they're pouring on us is quite hot.") or the usual sense? Putting out 200mw of radio power implies at least that much heat as well.. so "definitely very warm", but if it reaches "wow, that's hot!" levels, that's an indication you're running it over-voltage.
... still, nice to know they run at 4.2v in a pinch, with a heatsink. You probably get slightly better range with the extra volt, for a big reduction in chip MTBF. (Then again, failure due to errant tree is still probably going to happen first.)
That's not too bad then. Probably about 50-60 degrees C. (assuming you have mortal pain tolerances and aren't a chef.) That's at the limit of most chip specs, though. But given the power dissipation of chips is a V^2 thing, (and range increase as the cube root of power? from memory) that probably means you're only getting incremental range for a huge heat increase by 'overclocking' at 4.2v. Still, it works. And if we were wise, we probably wouldn't be so keen on throwing contraptions into the air, just to see what happens next.
I bought the 3.3v TX. what I plan to do is place a small diode in series with it. Diodes have a forward voltage drop of about 0.5-0.7v voltage drop. If needed I will put 2 diodes in series. That will let me use a single cell battery. If I knew for sure the 5v would work down to 3.3v I would have bought that one.
Jeremy Lee I agree. I made the mistake and ordered the 3.3v version. What a pain! It ran VERY hot (as in the English sense). Maybe it was defective because I also had channel locking issues with it.I've since gone and ordered the 5v version and am much happier with it. It runs much cooler on a 1s and I've not had any low-voltage problems.The 5v version is definitely the way to go.
That was great guys. Much more fun sourcing and making something yourself, rather than buying it from a shop. Can it be used without goggles on a small 7" screen? Kia ora Jon
When you file off the tip the problem is not corrosion. What happens in the outer metal does not form an amalgam with the solder but the copper does. so the copper slowly washes away with each touch to new solder.
So you recommend using 4.2V on a 3.3V VTX module? That sounds sketchy. Then the endless incompatibilities issue: not only do the transmitters and receivers have to be on the same frequency, they also must use the same modulation. E.g. receiving a Fatshark video stream on a Boscam receiver on the same frequency will result in a distorted image. About FPVHobby.com: I don't recommend buying there. Search google and see why for yourself. Many buyers have had issues with that seller.
Peter, can you use a different antenna, one that is not as directionally orientated? I have seen antenna that has four arms that kind of twist around, would one of these work with the system? Andre
I love the ground station box, I did notice the ezUHF transmitter in there though, is that just for storage or does it not jam up the rx antenna right next to it?
Hey, You mentioned loosing signal when you bank. I was wondering if it would help to add another antenna perpendicular to the other or can you even add another antenna?
Nice video ill try this for my racing boat, i have a question tho, i putchased a quad recently ( cheerson cx 23 ) and its great with one exception - the camera suck, i want to be able to take a little better videos and pictures so my question is - can i swap it out with something of better quality ? Ty :)
At the end you where getting signal even though the quad was outta sight. And you said 2000 feet. Is that with 250mw, 5.8ghz and spironet antennas or whatever there called because i read online that 5.8 has to be strictly line of sight and people not bein able to get more than a few hundred feet.
Dam skippy im gonna make one this week! Now how is the transmitter sending its signal to and what's the options on monitors for a poor boy like myself?
it is amazing how far the technology has come since this video was made. Now you can get something similar (fully assembled) for around $20
Hey Nils, can you recommend a more current video link for this info? Thanx.
@@thomream1888 th-cam.com/video/811IZ8GLHDw/w-d-xo.html
@@thomream1888 look up "fpv aio camera" and you can find some. I dont know which ones are good and which are bad, but they are cheap.
was just about to say the same thing lol its so cheap now lol
@@headon6139 yes
You guys should open up a store where we can buy everything in a bundle. Keep up the good work.
Deadset they have a store now
ok
Deadset just go to flitetest.com and there is a store button at the top of the page
***** thanks man
Inspiring video! The one thing I didn't see, was removal of the rosin flux after soldering. Rosin has some impedance when it solidifies and can change circuit characteristics and possibly add extra load to the transmitter. So right after the solder solidifies, wipe the joint off with a q-tip dipped in alcohol. 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store is fine. That removes the rosin the easiest since the solder joint is still warm. I would recommend using 63/37 solder over 60/40 for the fine soldering done in the rc world. Rosin core is more for large wires. Water soluble fluxes available in the 63/37 solders make cleanup so much easier and greatly reduce the risk of loading the circuit.
+JKFlorida Glad to help !
Desert Mike DIY mmmmmmp
Peter is great on the show, I love the stuff he's bringing to Flite Test recently with more electronics and rockets! I think Peter needs to put aside a few nights practicing presentation though. He's often quite nervous on camera and his presentation of steps for complex things doesn't seem as polished and practiced as it could be. With a bit of practice though, I can see him bringing back what I was missing since David has left! Thanks for bringing him on the show more, I've been enjoying all the DIY electronics stuff!
It's amazing to see how far this technology has advanced in such a short time.
Hey amazing people! This needs a refresh. I was all set to throw down the clams for this but parts have been discontinued and now there is even a smaller camera!!! Can you refresh this project?
Corey McGuire. wear is it wear can i follow you on
nash daniels you can follow my you tube channel. it has some robotics on it. not very rc
We need more videos like this.
@ 9:25 Josh justifiably corrects Peter to NOT USE CA in this application. There is a VERY good chance of fogging the sensor, the inside of the lens or the outside of the lens. And if you ever want to change lenses you're going to be pretty much out of luck.
Seriously guys way too cool thanks for posting all the links on how to do it, i had a terrible time sourcing 3 V components, gave up had to work, thanks and great videos of FPV
Hi
I'm so glade you guys did this video!
That was my intro to FPV Flying!
First I had this set up in a Hubsan X4, not so happy with the Hubsan.
But now I've got it strapped to my trusty old Hobbyking Mini Swift, and it's a BLAST!
Damn thats fun, and I got about 500-600 meter out of it, with the Wire Antenna AND just a cheap as chips RX with the standart Antenna on it...
Damn good fun!
I just the 5v Version as well, due to the specs it's quite well suited for a 1S set up.
As a Cam I used a cheap Hobbyking Cam.
I've you guys are back in Germany again, I would love to meet and fly with you!!
Why do you have one Cloverleaf Omni Antenna and one "normal" antenna on there? Thought the Omni outperforms the "normal" one? Why not go for two Omni in a 90° to each other so the two "donuts" get you an nearly all around and up and down reception? :)
RIP RadioShack.
Have you ever tried to put two cams on a plane with the right (or decreased for more immersion) eye distance for a 3D view? Are there even goggles that allow to easily show different video for each eye?
Oculous would do 3d i think.
Yes, but that would probably require quite some signal converting etc.
Zeiss cinemizer 3d, i think
DerClaudius www.banggood.com/Skyzone-SKY02-5_8G-32CH-AIO-3D-FPV-Goggles-Headset-Video-Glasses-p-964134.html
thx
Nice job Peter and explained very simply, your a great addition to Flite Test.
Still a great video to learn from. The basics remain viable. Thanks.
FPV is impressive. I have an idea for you that would make it even cooler. Can you make a night vision FPV setup? That would be so cool!
We miss David but Peter does a wonderful job filling his shoes
Very cool and unintimidating project Peter. Thanks for putting it together.
Great video! Are there any videos going over the receiver setup? Looks pretty nifty. I definitely would use that setup for a rover project I am working on ...
At 11:27 I'd love to see a video on that custom box.
ha you guys saved me a lot of freakin money I was just about to go trade in my Ares q 130 for a Ares FPV that would have cost me another $200 thanks again guys
please continue explaining the electronics in the RC world, how to solder circuit boards, properly wiring power systems. all this good stuff.
You can fix the camera lens adjustment with liquid electric tape. Great stuff! Not to mention sealing every connection and securing connectors to each other and or to the board or airframe.
Making a micro quad for in the house with a Hubsan X4 board, cheap frame, and some brushed motors. Can't wait to add FPV to it! Thanks FliteTest.
Great job Peter & Josh.
Looks like fun...and here are a couple of hints from an old guy on soldering detailed work:
Find and use small gauge 63/37 (not 60/40) rosin core solder, and clamp the workpiece lightly in a Panavise or similar with rubber pads on the jaws.
Add a worklight and maybe a magnifier and you're good to go...
Thanks for posting this up guys, it gives me confidence to try putting one together myself
Shout out to peter. I met ya down in panama city beach . I was doing fire inspections at a hotel and walk into a room filled with rc lol. I was like I need to have out with these guys . Nice build man I'm gona try this
Is that a Champ RTF that Peter is flying around 11:30?
Awesome Peter. Definitely would like to make one of these. 2 thumbs way way way up
Wow, this is awesome! Do you have a video on building the FPV "Black Box" that you're testing with? I'm interested. Thanks!~J~
Great video as usual guys. I have a motor question, I want to build a large quad and am very confused about motor choice what is a good motor to list a quad with about a 20 inch motor to motor?
I like the idea of that case as well as this little transmitter. Thanks for the video!
If you run the 3.3v vtx with a 1s, use a 1n4001 diode in series to drop the voltage by 1/3 of a volt to help it from burning out.
You mention make sure to get a compatible frequency often in the video. By buying a 32 channel 5.8 reciever all your bases are covered correct?
your teaching videos are the best, more, please!
Great video. What do you use for the receiver? Can you show your receiver setup? Did you build that as well?
I like this tiny FPV camera, I'll probably build one once I get a copter capable of carrying it. How about a DIY micro gimbal to mount this to? Would be awesome to have a tiny, mechanically stabilized FPV camera which I built myself.
The pre-built camera+ transmitter from horizon costs the same as the camera you have linked on Flitetest.com
This video is over a year old. Of course things are cheaper now.
omfg no way i have been waiting on this, or a similar review for ages :D
I have just bought the Spektrum Ultra Micro FPV Camera and vTX kit for 99 bucks! Can't wait for it to arrive and put on my T-28 UM
Nice video, good work peter
Great video!!! I want to see you guys land a quadcopter on a quadcopter on a quadcopter, reverse of what you did for the Amazon drone delivery video.
Yeah! That would actually be really cool if you guys did that!
THAT WOULD BE AWESOME!!!
Hahaha
Stephenson Airplanes run groep
Reproducibility
யிஹஃகஃஹஜ்ஜஹியூ வபியூக்ப்வ
you can learn almost anything on the internet, I don't know why anyone pays a mortgage for college unless it's to be a doctor or engineer
right
You need a certificate to get a good job...
Nobody's gonna trust your ass to self educate on the Internet. Lol
I learnt to swim online
You *NEED* to prove that you know something. When was the last time someone applied to be a brain surgeon claiming they know how to operate via " learning it from the internet"?
Awesome ... making one asap.. this is perfect for smaller projects where rabge issnt much of an issue.. I'll still stick to a small clover.. but its great Pieter!!!
incredible ! do you have millimeters dimensions ? it should fit in an n-scale train too !
grate job guys i never use to miss any of ur videos !!
Very good tutorial! Man those transmitters got small!
If you use a GoPro by water i recommend putting the clear case on it...
Hi guys I'm going to be buying a plane soon and don't know what to get. I'm going to spending $250 max for now and going to upgrade to fpv later. I'm thinking about getting the Ft Racer but my brother says I should get the tbs wing that starts c (don't know how to spell it). I really don't know if a wing without fpv will be fun. If you have any suggestions on what plane I should bet please tell me
You should ask your question in the FliteTest Forum, there are some friendly folks that can help you out and learn more about you and what you really need.
if it is your first plane i would for sure go with the bix 3 from hobbyking
I have been an R.C flier for over 15 years . here are my tips..
go for the basic bixler it is cheap and easily repaired ,EPO foam is fantastic and simple to fix …YOU WILL CRASH . also try and get a 2.4 ghz radio . buy a 6 or 7 channel as you will not need to upgrade later ..
My biggest tips are to get someone who already flies rc to be there to help you build it ( note COG ) and also be there for your first flight ..get a simulator … read as much info on flying and read it again …. fly in open space without houses trees and other obstacles ..
remember we are here to help .. if in doubt ask !!!
may the force be with you!, Barry
Yeah but that's over 250 easily^^ go for a bix 3, you can fpv upgrade, it's a beginner and can be easily repaired plus you can do candy drops in the future lol
Bix 3!
Thanks for the help for Geting into the fpv part of the hobby
That looks great!!! So tiny. You can put that on ANYTHING!!!
Great Video. Looks good. I just started flying FPV with the Nano QX and have traveled around the house and outside in the yard. I believe the QX FPV only has a 25mW transmitter so 200 Mw would be a significant improvement on range I would think. I wonder how this would work on a Hubsan X4. I havent seen any info on others modding that quad, but I am sure they are out there and that it has been done. The X4 seems like a great platform as it can lift quite a bit and I love the 10 minute flight times with the 500 mAh packs. Any thoughts on this?
Hi
can you also post video for building Receiver same or similar one which you used to test FPV camera or provide and reference video links
"you dont want to file the solder tip..." Puts down sandpaper and solder tip....... well shoot.
+cheeriomartinez
I ground one to a fine point many years ago....still use it. Have to clean and tin it more often than normal though.
+Haywood Jablomy you can change the tip
+THUNDERBOLT
uhh....yeah...so?
+Haywood Jablomy yeah mine is all wonky now. I could buy another one but.......eh
+cheeriomartinez Soldering tips are nickel plated so that the tip doesn't oxidize when it gets so hot. Use a damp sponge to wipe the tip off. A damp paper towel works in a pinch.
Very nice job :)
It's a pretty cool way for saving a lot of money! Very easy, just some soldering skills are required but nothing impossible.
5 stars video guys, Peter is definitely the man of the week ;)
Thanks for sharing
Nice vid. I would really like to get into this. So how much should I pay for a receiver for this setup?
Has anyone attached 2 of these for 3d viewing? If you can see depth you would get a lot more control I would think.
+Anon Mason running on two channels and somehow view them on each side of an fpv goggle.... thats an amazing idea!
+Håvard .EF
Exactly what I was thinking.
To step it up, you could mount a gyro on the goggle and have 2 servos control the cameras for a virtual reality experience. I have seen someone do this with 1 camera and arduino electronics..
There is actually a product called a nerdcam that has 2 and processes them so they can just be viewed with regular goggles
I think Peter's remorse over getting the 5v module (instead of the 3.3v) was unfounded - he was actually right the first time! I was just re-reading the specs, and the 5v module IS the 3.3v module with an LDO regulator onboard. Thus It will happily work from 5v down to 3.4-ish volts. HOWEVER if you order the 3.3v module and you don't have an external regulator then a regular LiPo (at 4.2v fully charged) will probably BLOW THE MODULE. (I suspect. It exceeds spec. anyway) So the 5v module should be read "AT LEAST 3.5v" and the 3.3v module should be labelled "NEVER MORE than 3.3v". Anyone want to double-check that?
"quite hot" in the english sense? (as in "I say, this boiling oil they're pouring on us is quite hot.") or the usual sense? Putting out 200mw of radio power implies at least that much heat as well.. so "definitely very warm", but if it reaches "wow, that's hot!" levels, that's an indication you're running it over-voltage.
... still, nice to know they run at 4.2v in a pinch, with a heatsink. You probably get slightly better range with the extra volt, for a big reduction in chip MTBF. (Then again, failure due to errant tree is still probably going to happen first.)
That's not too bad then. Probably about 50-60 degrees C. (assuming you have mortal pain tolerances and aren't a chef.) That's at the limit of most chip specs, though. But given the power dissipation of chips is a V^2 thing, (and range increase as the cube root of power? from memory) that probably means you're only getting incremental range for a huge heat increase by 'overclocking' at 4.2v. Still, it works. And if we were wise, we probably wouldn't be so keen on throwing contraptions into the air, just to see what happens next.
I bought the 3.3v TX. what I plan to do is place a small diode in series with it. Diodes have a forward voltage drop
of about 0.5-0.7v voltage drop. If needed I will put 2 diodes in series. That will let me use a single cell battery.
If I knew for sure the 5v would work down to 3.3v I would have bought that one.
Jeremy Lee I agree. I made the mistake and ordered the 3.3v version. What a pain! It ran VERY hot (as in the English sense). Maybe it was defective because I also had channel locking issues with it.I've since gone and ordered the 5v version and am much happier with it. It runs much cooler on a 1s and I've not had any low-voltage problems.The 5v version is definitely the way to go.
That was great guys. Much more fun sourcing and making something yourself, rather than buying it from a shop. Can it be used without goggles on a small 7" screen? Kia ora Jon
Can you do a video on how you set up your FPV box?
Awesome! Can I use a PAL camera instead of a NTSC camera? The PAL is the only one in stock. Thanks guys!
Super Great DIY - Kudos to Peter! Can I just purchase one from you instead?
Great video. Is there a way to set this up to record on a micro card?
Thanks
Do you have a video on how you made your base station with the video RX and RC control?
When you file off the tip the problem is not corrosion. What happens in the outer metal does not form an amalgam with the solder but the copper does. so the copper slowly washes away with each touch to new solder.
Josh, keep your head up! Looks like you're pointing your Fatshark's cloverleaf dead spot *right* at you model ;)
Any chance of an updated version of this, maybe with cheaper components?
You should probably sell these on your website.
If you don't can you recommend a few low priced fpv cameras that are durable?
So you recommend using 4.2V on a 3.3V VTX module? That sounds sketchy.
Then the endless incompatibilities issue: not only do the transmitters and receivers have to be on the same frequency, they also must use the same modulation. E.g. receiving a Fatshark video stream on a Boscam receiver on the same frequency will result in a distorted image.
About FPVHobby.com: I don't recommend buying there. Search google and see why for yourself. Many buyers have had issues with that seller.
00:07
What are those things that are like glasses?
OH THIS IS AWESOME, I HAVE BEEN LOOKING QUIT A WHILE FOR THIS SOLUTION!
Liked and subbed.
It would be amazing if you made a mini versa wing to use this fpv setup on!
Peter,
can you use a different antenna, one that is not as directionally orientated? I have seen antenna that has four arms that kind of twist around, would one of these work with the system?
Andre
as this part for camera and transmitter build, is there any video for receiver build?
That's complicated,but thanks for talking about the different 5.8 ,had no idea that they are different .
This is one of my favorite videos. Thanks guys.
Definitely going on my project list after my 100w led torch :)
how many lumens you plan to get out of it?
planing on making a second sun?
Jeremy Brock not sure to be honest as i dont have anything to measure it but lets just say its bright :)
tyler roberts haha its not far from it
TheLukey21 maybe you should make it with infrared LEDs and combine it with this FPV-thingy to make night flights =)
Great episode guys.
Did you guys say you were going to sell these? all ready built? my soldering skills aren't that good to do that small
Bite the bullet, Snap, and Learn and Practice. Time to stop being a baby
JL
That is totally bad ass. I might have to incorporate some of those mini cameras in my helicarrier using a 3 channel camera switch
I meet Josh at the Seagate Expo! All I can say is he is a really great guy!
nice video thanks for the sharing,what can i use as receiver to view the video ?
Maybe a dumb question, but could you put 2 antennas at an angle and cover the problem with the signal breaking when you turn?
I would use a smaller dip switch to lower the weight maximum :)
The ones simular to the ones that are mounted to the fatshark vtx's works great.
Great video, I made mine about 3 years ago and it still sends signal fine with about 15mins run time.
That 1 gram camera actually weights closer to 2 grams and if you are planning to use this on a micro quad every little bit adds up.
What quad is that next to josh to the left of the fpv screen at 10:24
Is it possible to use a 5.8 polarised antenna? instead of just a straight antenna, as this would help keep the video from braking in turns.
I love the ground station box, I did notice the ezUHF transmitter in there though, is that just for storage or does it not jam up the rx antenna right next to it?
weird looking back at those now you can get the micro all in one fpv @200mw for 15$
Hey EC, can you recommend a more current (9-2018) video link for this info? Thanx.
you could also use the 32 channel stuff then it is compatible with all of the 5.8 systems
Hey,
You mentioned loosing signal when you bank. I was wondering if it would help to add another antenna perpendicular to the other or can you even add another antenna?
Hi guys....awesome video.....how far can you get the signal from???
May I use this system replacing the camera for an RCA plug and so transmit video signal from a DVD?
what are the measurements for the antenna?
thanks
Ken
Nice video ill try this for my racing boat, i have a question tho, i putchased a quad recently ( cheerson cx 23 ) and its great with one exception - the camera suck, i want to be able to take a little better videos and pictures so my question is - can i swap it out with something of better quality ? Ty :)
At the end you where getting signal even though the quad was outta sight. And you said 2000 feet. Is that with 250mw, 5.8ghz and spironet antennas or whatever there called because i read online that 5.8 has to be strictly line of sight and people not bein able to get more than a few hundred feet.
Sombody knows from what episode is that scene 0:16 ? Or what multirotor/fpv config. was used ? Thanks :)
Peter I thought this was a great video. Very informative and something that looks really fun to build. Thanks again FT for sharing.
What about the reciver? Which one should we use for this set up? Otherwise, how would you do it?
Dam skippy im gonna make one this week! Now how is the transmitter sending its signal to and what's the options on monitors for a poor boy like myself?