Inspiring video! The one thing I didn't see, was removal of the rosin flux after soldering. Rosin has some impedance when it solidifies and can change circuit characteristics and possibly add extra load to the transmitter. So right after the solder solidifies, wipe the joint off with a q-tip dipped in alcohol. 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store is fine. That removes the rosin the easiest since the solder joint is still warm. I would recommend using 63/37 solder over 60/40 for the fine soldering done in the rc world. Rosin core is more for large wires. Water soluble fluxes available in the 63/37 solders make cleanup so much easier and greatly reduce the risk of loading the circuit.
Peter is great on the show, I love the stuff he's bringing to Flite Test recently with more electronics and rockets! I think Peter needs to put aside a few nights practicing presentation though. He's often quite nervous on camera and his presentation of steps for complex things doesn't seem as polished and practiced as it could be. With a bit of practice though, I can see him bringing back what I was missing since David has left! Thanks for bringing him on the show more, I've been enjoying all the DIY electronics stuff!
Hey amazing people! This needs a refresh. I was all set to throw down the clams for this but parts have been discontinued and now there is even a smaller camera!!! Can you refresh this project?
Hi I'm so glade you guys did this video! That was my intro to FPV Flying! First I had this set up in a Hubsan X4, not so happy with the Hubsan. But now I've got it strapped to my trusty old Hobbyking Mini Swift, and it's a BLAST! Damn thats fun, and I got about 500-600 meter out of it, with the Wire Antenna AND just a cheap as chips RX with the standart Antenna on it... Damn good fun! I just the 5v Version as well, due to the specs it's quite well suited for a 1S set up. As a Cam I used a cheap Hobbyking Cam. I've you guys are back in Germany again, I would love to meet and fly with you!!
Looks like fun...and here are a couple of hints from an old guy on soldering detailed work: Find and use small gauge 63/37 (not 60/40) rosin core solder, and clamp the workpiece lightly in a Panavise or similar with rubber pads on the jaws. Add a worklight and maybe a magnifier and you're good to go...
@ 9:25 Josh justifiably corrects Peter to NOT USE CA in this application. There is a VERY good chance of fogging the sensor, the inside of the lens or the outside of the lens. And if you ever want to change lenses you're going to be pretty much out of luck.
Seriously guys way too cool thanks for posting all the links on how to do it, i had a terrible time sourcing 3 V components, gave up had to work, thanks and great videos of FPV
You can fix the camera lens adjustment with liquid electric tape. Great stuff! Not to mention sealing every connection and securing connectors to each other and or to the board or airframe.
I think Peter's remorse over getting the 5v module (instead of the 3.3v) was unfounded - he was actually right the first time! I was just re-reading the specs, and the 5v module IS the 3.3v module with an LDO regulator onboard. Thus It will happily work from 5v down to 3.4-ish volts. HOWEVER if you order the 3.3v module and you don't have an external regulator then a regular LiPo (at 4.2v fully charged) will probably BLOW THE MODULE. (I suspect. It exceeds spec. anyway) So the 5v module should be read "AT LEAST 3.5v" and the 3.3v module should be labelled "NEVER MORE than 3.3v". Anyone want to double-check that?
"quite hot" in the english sense? (as in "I say, this boiling oil they're pouring on us is quite hot.") or the usual sense? Putting out 200mw of radio power implies at least that much heat as well.. so "definitely very warm", but if it reaches "wow, that's hot!" levels, that's an indication you're running it over-voltage.
... still, nice to know they run at 4.2v in a pinch, with a heatsink. You probably get slightly better range with the extra volt, for a big reduction in chip MTBF. (Then again, failure due to errant tree is still probably going to happen first.)
That's not too bad then. Probably about 50-60 degrees C. (assuming you have mortal pain tolerances and aren't a chef.) That's at the limit of most chip specs, though. But given the power dissipation of chips is a V^2 thing, (and range increase as the cube root of power? from memory) that probably means you're only getting incremental range for a huge heat increase by 'overclocking' at 4.2v. Still, it works. And if we were wise, we probably wouldn't be so keen on throwing contraptions into the air, just to see what happens next.
I bought the 3.3v TX. what I plan to do is place a small diode in series with it. Diodes have a forward voltage drop of about 0.5-0.7v voltage drop. If needed I will put 2 diodes in series. That will let me use a single cell battery. If I knew for sure the 5v would work down to 3.3v I would have bought that one.
Jeremy Lee I agree. I made the mistake and ordered the 3.3v version. What a pain! It ran VERY hot (as in the English sense). Maybe it was defective because I also had channel locking issues with it.I've since gone and ordered the 5v version and am much happier with it. It runs much cooler on a 1s and I've not had any low-voltage problems.The 5v version is definitely the way to go.
+cheeriomartinez Soldering tips are nickel plated so that the tip doesn't oxidize when it gets so hot. Use a damp sponge to wipe the tip off. A damp paper towel works in a pinch.
You *NEED* to prove that you know something. When was the last time someone applied to be a brain surgeon claiming they know how to operate via " learning it from the internet"?
ha you guys saved me a lot of freakin money I was just about to go trade in my Ares q 130 for a Ares FPV that would have cost me another $200 thanks again guys
Shout out to peter. I met ya down in panama city beach . I was doing fire inspections at a hotel and walk into a room filled with rc lol. I was like I need to have out with these guys . Nice build man I'm gona try this
I found the easiest way to solder this Boscam vtx, is to strip the wires long enough, then go ahead and twist wires , lay them down into the pre-soldered pads, streched , then solder with good tin , dont pre-solder the wires as it wont do any good ;-) hf flying ;-) , greetings !
By the way, if you want to use this setup for a micro quad ( like the hubsan etc .. ) forget the dip switch it will give u +- 35 seconds extra flight time. Peter, good job ! but i would not prefer to use hot glue to attach the camera to the vtx's heat sink, as it might melt in the summer because of the extra heat produced by this vtx ( it gets hot ), instead if u solder a micro cloverleaf antenne its a good idea to use hotglue to glue the camera to the boom ( coax wire ) of the antenna. as the coaxial cable doesnt produce any heat at all. Happy Flying ;-)
Great job guys! By the way, this DOES work with BOSCAM receivers (ie. Skyzone goggles) as well.... I was watching a few of Josh's flights while at Horizon Indoor. ;-) I think the base Fatshark cameras start on band 4 channel 1 (or maybe it's D-1). Just hunt, and you'll find it. Cheers, J
Awesome ... making one asap.. this is perfect for smaller projects where rabge issnt much of an issue.. I'll still stick to a small clover.. but its great Pieter!!!
Btw thanks for the video. If your plane can carry a little more weight and uses at least 2S, then I recommend using a Fatshark 600tvl CMOS camera in combination with a aomway mini 200mw transmitter. The Fatshark CMOS camera is the best CMOS camera I've used. The rest produce awful images (poor contrast and muddy colours). The aomway mini transmitter is almost as small as the diy module and comes with a SMA connector where you can attach a cloverleaf antenna. There are 2 sizes of the 200mw 5.8Ghz aomway VTX: the mini one is the one without the big black molex connectors. Banggood sells them. Search for "AOMWAY FPV 5.8Ghz 200mW 32CH Wireless AV Transmitter Module"
Great video! Are there any videos going over the receiver setup? Looks pretty nifty. I definitely would use that setup for a rover project I am working on ...
Very nice job :) It's a pretty cool way for saving a lot of money! Very easy, just some soldering skills are required but nothing impossible. 5 stars video guys, Peter is definitely the man of the week ;) Thanks for sharing
Great video as usual guys. I have a motor question, I want to build a large quad and am very confused about motor choice what is a good motor to list a quad with about a 20 inch motor to motor?
Bit charger plane vtx, LOL! Awesome to see, there are pcb vtx boards on ebay around $24. Heat sink on the case helps they do get hot. Digikey is great for parts like dip switches and led switches. Unplug power to ccd when taking lens off to avoid sensor burn too.
That was great guys. Much more fun sourcing and making something yourself, rather than buying it from a shop. Can it be used without goggles on a small 7" screen? Kia ora Jon
I like this tiny FPV camera, I'll probably build one once I get a copter capable of carrying it. How about a DIY micro gimbal to mount this to? Would be awesome to have a tiny, mechanically stabilized FPV camera which I built myself.
omfg no way i have been waiting on this, or a similar review for ages :D I have just bought the Spektrum Ultra Micro FPV Camera and vTX kit for 99 bucks! Can't wait for it to arrive and put on my T-28 UM
Amazing video I managed to me one for under $20 with parts from Banggood the $11 micro camera is amazing way better than my $60 fpv hobby camera with wide angled lens plus the banggood camera already comes focused and with a 170 degree camera which it isn't it's about 130 degrees in actual fact, amazing little thing which has a range of 800m plus
Why do you have one Cloverleaf Omni Antenna and one "normal" antenna on there? Thought the Omni outperforms the "normal" one? Why not go for two Omni in a 90° to each other so the two "donuts" get you an nearly all around and up and down reception? :)
Loved the vid guys. Great job of cookbook engineering. It is also a great lesson when trying to accomplish anything check out what other people have done before. You might not want to do it the same way but you will certainly learn a lot and also get some great ideas along the way. Pretty good job of soldering to. Most times when I see soldering done on You Tube it ain't so great.
Rich-notice that Peter avoided heat-sens. IC's and used 2" leads to wick away iron heat. It looks quite simple, but a lot of thot went into building this lash-up (he should've mentioned a max iron wattage, tho; say, 37). JL
Another great video! I'd love to see you guys review the Blade 200qx. I've had mine for a few months now and I love it! It's pretty fast, very agile and It's perfect with a Mobius mounted on it, but I would really like to try out some FPV with it. I would really like to see what you guys think.
Thanks again for that, second time I watched it,,, I am about to do one of mine tomorrow,, good video shame you did not put it to sound,, Thanks again, Pete
14wacawaca Have I lost the thread there ,,,What parts and what transmitter. I think this is not the video I wrote or wanted to comment on, sorry about that.. . Cheers, pete
Have you ever tried to put two cams on a plane with the right (or decreased for more immersion) eye distance for a 3D view? Are there even goggles that allow to easily show different video for each eye?
Greetings, I have been researching wireless cameras for the outside of my Class A Motor Home. She is a bit old and only has one backup camera who's primary mission is to watch our Towed when we are on the road, and allow my good wife of 48 years to guide me with both her voice and hand signals over the onboard microphone when parking the 35 foot rig. This sort of rig should work fine for my purposes.
Great Video. Looks good. I just started flying FPV with the Nano QX and have traveled around the house and outside in the yard. I believe the QX FPV only has a 25mW transmitter so 200 Mw would be a significant improvement on range I would think. I wonder how this would work on a Hubsan X4. I havent seen any info on others modding that quad, but I am sure they are out there and that it has been done. The X4 seems like a great platform as it can lift quite a bit and I love the 10 minute flight times with the 500 mAh packs. Any thoughts on this?
Be careful, the recommended TX-Modules don't fit ImmersionRC frequencies perfectly. Those modules go from 5725, 5745, 5765, 5785, 5805, 5825 and 5845. The IRC modules are at 5740, 5760, 5780, 5800, 5820 and 5840. Obviously it'll work, but the there is a little difference, which will decrease range and experience. If you want a perfect experience, check out a 5,8ghz module with IRC-frequencies.
CTS makes good dip switches try the CTS-206-3 model! digikey is probably the best place to get stuff like that (think of it as an online super radio shack)
loved the video especially the fact you used the quad (nine eagles galaxy visitor 3 ) that my grandson has, so you can guess what I will be ordering, one other question will this work with the epson mover BT 200 glasses ?
it is amazing how far the technology has come since this video was made. Now you can get something similar (fully assembled) for around $20
Hey Nils, can you recommend a more current video link for this info? Thanx.
@@thomream1888 th-cam.com/video/811IZ8GLHDw/w-d-xo.html
@@thomream1888 look up "fpv aio camera" and you can find some. I dont know which ones are good and which are bad, but they are cheap.
was just about to say the same thing lol its so cheap now lol
@@headon6139 yes
You guys should open up a store where we can buy everything in a bundle. Keep up the good work.
Deadset they have a store now
ok
Deadset just go to flitetest.com and there is a store button at the top of the page
***** thanks man
Inspiring video! The one thing I didn't see, was removal of the rosin flux after soldering. Rosin has some impedance when it solidifies and can change circuit characteristics and possibly add extra load to the transmitter. So right after the solder solidifies, wipe the joint off with a q-tip dipped in alcohol. 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store is fine. That removes the rosin the easiest since the solder joint is still warm. I would recommend using 63/37 solder over 60/40 for the fine soldering done in the rc world. Rosin core is more for large wires. Water soluble fluxes available in the 63/37 solders make cleanup so much easier and greatly reduce the risk of loading the circuit.
+JKFlorida Glad to help !
Desert Mike DIY mmmmmmp
RIP RadioShack.
We need more videos like this.
Peter is great on the show, I love the stuff he's bringing to Flite Test recently with more electronics and rockets! I think Peter needs to put aside a few nights practicing presentation though. He's often quite nervous on camera and his presentation of steps for complex things doesn't seem as polished and practiced as it could be. With a bit of practice though, I can see him bringing back what I was missing since David has left! Thanks for bringing him on the show more, I've been enjoying all the DIY electronics stuff!
It's amazing to see how far this technology has advanced in such a short time.
Hey amazing people! This needs a refresh. I was all set to throw down the clams for this but parts have been discontinued and now there is even a smaller camera!!! Can you refresh this project?
Corey McGuire. wear is it wear can i follow you on
nash daniels you can follow my you tube channel. it has some robotics on it. not very rc
Hi
I'm so glade you guys did this video!
That was my intro to FPV Flying!
First I had this set up in a Hubsan X4, not so happy with the Hubsan.
But now I've got it strapped to my trusty old Hobbyking Mini Swift, and it's a BLAST!
Damn thats fun, and I got about 500-600 meter out of it, with the Wire Antenna AND just a cheap as chips RX with the standart Antenna on it...
Damn good fun!
I just the 5v Version as well, due to the specs it's quite well suited for a 1S set up.
As a Cam I used a cheap Hobbyking Cam.
I've you guys are back in Germany again, I would love to meet and fly with you!!
Looks like fun...and here are a couple of hints from an old guy on soldering detailed work:
Find and use small gauge 63/37 (not 60/40) rosin core solder, and clamp the workpiece lightly in a Panavise or similar with rubber pads on the jaws.
Add a worklight and maybe a magnifier and you're good to go...
@ 9:25 Josh justifiably corrects Peter to NOT USE CA in this application. There is a VERY good chance of fogging the sensor, the inside of the lens or the outside of the lens. And if you ever want to change lenses you're going to be pretty much out of luck.
Still a great video to learn from. The basics remain viable. Thanks.
We miss David but Peter does a wonderful job filling his shoes
FPV is impressive. I have an idea for you that would make it even cooler. Can you make a night vision FPV setup? That would be so cool!
please continue explaining the electronics in the RC world, how to solder circuit boards, properly wiring power systems. all this good stuff.
Seriously guys way too cool thanks for posting all the links on how to do it, i had a terrible time sourcing 3 V components, gave up had to work, thanks and great videos of FPV
Nice job Peter and explained very simply, your a great addition to Flite Test.
Making a micro quad for in the house with a Hubsan X4 board, cheap frame, and some brushed motors. Can't wait to add FPV to it! Thanks FliteTest.
You can fix the camera lens adjustment with liquid electric tape. Great stuff! Not to mention sealing every connection and securing connectors to each other and or to the board or airframe.
Very cool and unintimidating project Peter. Thanks for putting it together.
That's complicated,but thanks for talking about the different 5.8 ,had no idea that they are different .
Great job Peter & Josh.
Great video!!! I want to see you guys land a quadcopter on a quadcopter on a quadcopter, reverse of what you did for the Amazon drone delivery video.
Yeah! That would actually be really cool if you guys did that!
THAT WOULD BE AWESOME!!!
Hahaha
Stephenson Airplanes run groep
Reproducibility
யிஹஃகஃஹஜ்ஜஹியூ வபியூக்ப்வ
I think Peter's remorse over getting the 5v module (instead of the 3.3v) was unfounded - he was actually right the first time! I was just re-reading the specs, and the 5v module IS the 3.3v module with an LDO regulator onboard. Thus It will happily work from 5v down to 3.4-ish volts. HOWEVER if you order the 3.3v module and you don't have an external regulator then a regular LiPo (at 4.2v fully charged) will probably BLOW THE MODULE. (I suspect. It exceeds spec. anyway) So the 5v module should be read "AT LEAST 3.5v" and the 3.3v module should be labelled "NEVER MORE than 3.3v". Anyone want to double-check that?
"quite hot" in the english sense? (as in "I say, this boiling oil they're pouring on us is quite hot.") or the usual sense? Putting out 200mw of radio power implies at least that much heat as well.. so "definitely very warm", but if it reaches "wow, that's hot!" levels, that's an indication you're running it over-voltage.
... still, nice to know they run at 4.2v in a pinch, with a heatsink. You probably get slightly better range with the extra volt, for a big reduction in chip MTBF. (Then again, failure due to errant tree is still probably going to happen first.)
That's not too bad then. Probably about 50-60 degrees C. (assuming you have mortal pain tolerances and aren't a chef.) That's at the limit of most chip specs, though. But given the power dissipation of chips is a V^2 thing, (and range increase as the cube root of power? from memory) that probably means you're only getting incremental range for a huge heat increase by 'overclocking' at 4.2v. Still, it works. And if we were wise, we probably wouldn't be so keen on throwing contraptions into the air, just to see what happens next.
I bought the 3.3v TX. what I plan to do is place a small diode in series with it. Diodes have a forward voltage drop
of about 0.5-0.7v voltage drop. If needed I will put 2 diodes in series. That will let me use a single cell battery.
If I knew for sure the 5v would work down to 3.3v I would have bought that one.
Jeremy Lee I agree. I made the mistake and ordered the 3.3v version. What a pain! It ran VERY hot (as in the English sense). Maybe it was defective because I also had channel locking issues with it.I've since gone and ordered the 5v version and am much happier with it. It runs much cooler on a 1s and I've not had any low-voltage problems.The 5v version is definitely the way to go.
If you run the 3.3v vtx with a 1s, use a 1n4001 diode in series to drop the voltage by 1/3 of a volt to help it from burning out.
"you dont want to file the solder tip..." Puts down sandpaper and solder tip....... well shoot.
+cheeriomartinez
I ground one to a fine point many years ago....still use it. Have to clean and tin it more often than normal though.
+Haywood Jablomy you can change the tip
+THUNDERBOLT
uhh....yeah...so?
+Haywood Jablomy yeah mine is all wonky now. I could buy another one but.......eh
+cheeriomartinez Soldering tips are nickel plated so that the tip doesn't oxidize when it gets so hot. Use a damp sponge to wipe the tip off. A damp paper towel works in a pinch.
you can learn almost anything on the internet, I don't know why anyone pays a mortgage for college unless it's to be a doctor or engineer
right
You need a certificate to get a good job...
Nobody's gonna trust your ass to self educate on the Internet. Lol
I learnt to swim online
You *NEED* to prove that you know something. When was the last time someone applied to be a brain surgeon claiming they know how to operate via " learning it from the internet"?
Thanks for posting this up guys, it gives me confidence to try putting one together myself
ha you guys saved me a lot of freakin money I was just about to go trade in my Ares q 130 for a Ares FPV that would have cost me another $200 thanks again guys
That looks great!!! So tiny. You can put that on ANYTHING!!!
Shout out to peter. I met ya down in panama city beach . I was doing fire inspections at a hotel and walk into a room filled with rc lol. I was like I need to have out with these guys . Nice build man I'm gona try this
I found the easiest way to solder this Boscam vtx, is to strip the wires long enough, then go ahead and twist wires , lay them down into the pre-soldered pads, streched , then solder with good tin , dont pre-solder the wires as it wont do any good ;-) hf flying ;-) , greetings !
By the way, if you want to use this setup for a micro quad ( like the hubsan etc .. ) forget the dip switch it will give u +- 35 seconds extra flight time.
Peter, good job ! but i would not prefer to use hot glue to attach the camera to the vtx's heat sink, as it might melt in the summer because of the extra heat produced by this vtx ( it gets hot ),
instead if u solder a micro cloverleaf antenne its a good idea to use hotglue to glue the camera to the boom ( coax wire ) of the antenna. as the coaxial cable doesnt produce any heat at all.
Happy Flying ;-)
Great video, I made mine about 3 years ago and it still sends signal fine with about 15mins run time.
That 1 gram camera actually weights closer to 2 grams and if you are planning to use this on a micro quad every little bit adds up.
If you use a GoPro by water i recommend putting the clear case on it...
Thanks for the help for Geting into the fpv part of the hobby
Perfect for the upcoming revolution in FPV Control Line Flying.
That is totally bad ass. I might have to incorporate some of those mini cameras in my helicarrier using a 3 channel camera switch
Awesome Peter. Definitely would like to make one of these. 2 thumbs way way way up
Very good tutorial! Man those transmitters got small!
Josh, keep your head up! Looks like you're pointing your Fatshark's cloverleaf dead spot *right* at you model ;)
Great job guys!
By the way, this DOES work with BOSCAM receivers (ie. Skyzone goggles) as well.... I was watching a few of Josh's flights while at Horizon Indoor. ;-) I think the base Fatshark cameras start on band 4 channel 1 (or maybe it's D-1). Just hunt, and you'll find it.
Cheers,
J
Nice video, good work peter
Awesome ... making one asap.. this is perfect for smaller projects where rabge issnt much of an issue.. I'll still stick to a small clover.. but its great Pieter!!!
PLEASE get the mini Ft Cruiser out in time for christmas!!! FPV (possibly long range) with that would be awesome!
Also, is there a cloverleaf antenae I could use instead?
Definitely going on my project list after my 100w led torch :)
how many lumens you plan to get out of it?
planing on making a second sun?
Jeremy Brock not sure to be honest as i dont have anything to measure it but lets just say its bright :)
tyler roberts haha its not far from it
TheLukey21 maybe you should make it with infrared LEDs and combine it with this FPV-thingy to make night flights =)
your teaching videos are the best, more, please!
Btw thanks for the video.
If your plane can carry a little more weight and uses at least 2S, then I recommend using a Fatshark 600tvl CMOS camera in combination with a aomway mini 200mw transmitter.
The Fatshark CMOS camera is the best CMOS camera I've used. The rest produce awful images (poor contrast and muddy colours).
The aomway mini transmitter is almost as small as the diy module and comes with a SMA connector where you can attach a cloverleaf antenna.
There are 2 sizes of the 200mw 5.8Ghz aomway VTX: the mini one is the one without the big black molex connectors. Banggood sells them. Search for
"AOMWAY FPV 5.8Ghz 200mW 32CH Wireless AV Transmitter Module"
Great video! Are there any videos going over the receiver setup? Looks pretty nifty. I definitely would use that setup for a rover project I am working on ...
I like the idea of that case as well as this little transmitter. Thanks for the video!
The more I watch the more I want my kids to do this.
Very nice job :)
It's a pretty cool way for saving a lot of money! Very easy, just some soldering skills are required but nothing impossible.
5 stars video guys, Peter is definitely the man of the week ;)
Thanks for sharing
Great video as usual guys. I have a motor question, I want to build a large quad and am very confused about motor choice what is a good motor to list a quad with about a 20 inch motor to motor?
grate job guys i never use to miss any of ur videos !!
Mouser has the dip switches and MUCH MUCH more.
I would use a smaller dip switch to lower the weight maximum :)
The ones simular to the ones that are mounted to the fatshark vtx's works great.
Bit charger plane vtx, LOL! Awesome to see, there are pcb vtx boards on ebay around $24. Heat sink on the case helps they do get hot.
Digikey is great for parts like dip switches and led switches.
Unplug power to ccd when taking lens off to avoid sensor burn too.
That was great guys. Much more fun sourcing and making something yourself, rather than buying it from a shop. Can it be used without goggles on a small 7" screen? Kia ora Jon
I meet Josh at the Seagate Expo! All I can say is he is a really great guy!
I like this tiny FPV camera, I'll probably build one once I get a copter capable of carrying it. How about a DIY micro gimbal to mount this to? Would be awesome to have a tiny, mechanically stabilized FPV camera which I built myself.
Just bought a micro plane the second I saw it! MIGHTY MINIS!!!
omfg no way i have been waiting on this, or a similar review for ages :D
I have just bought the Spektrum Ultra Micro FPV Camera and vTX kit for 99 bucks! Can't wait for it to arrive and put on my T-28 UM
Amazing video I managed to me one for under $20 with parts from Banggood the $11 micro camera is amazing way better than my $60 fpv hobby camera with wide angled lens plus the banggood camera already comes focused and with a 170 degree camera which it isn't it's about 130 degrees in actual fact, amazing little thing which has a range of 800m plus
the 3way switchs are called DIL switchs , aussie jaycar part number SM1013
Good on ya mate!! Thanks for the info :)
Yep, thanks mate! he he
OH THIS IS AWESOME, I HAVE BEEN LOOKING QUIT A WHILE FOR THIS SOLUTION!
Liked and subbed.
you could also use the 32 channel stuff then it is compatible with all of the 5.8 systems
Why do you have one Cloverleaf Omni Antenna and one "normal" antenna on there? Thought the Omni outperforms the "normal" one? Why not go for two Omni in a 90° to each other so the two "donuts" get you an nearly all around and up and down reception? :)
Fantastic work guys.
Loved the vid guys. Great job of cookbook engineering. It is also a great lesson when trying to accomplish anything check out what other people have done before. You might not want to do it the same way but you will certainly learn a lot and also get some great ideas along the way. Pretty good job of soldering to. Most times when I see soldering done on You Tube it ain't so great.
Rich-notice that Peter avoided heat-sens. IC's and used 2" leads to wick away
iron heat. It looks quite simple, but a lot of thot went into building this lash-up
(he should've mentioned a max iron wattage, tho; say, 37). JL
Great video. What do you use for the receiver? Can you show your receiver setup? Did you build that as well?
This is one of my favorite videos. Thanks guys.
Nice job - clearly explained.
Another great video! I'd love to see you guys review the Blade 200qx. I've had mine for a few months now and I love it! It's pretty fast, very agile and It's perfect with a Mobius mounted on it, but I would really like to try out some FPV with it. I would really like to see what you guys think.
Awesome! Can I use a PAL camera instead of a NTSC camera? The PAL is the only one in stock. Thanks guys!
You mention make sure to get a compatible frequency often in the video. By buying a 32 channel 5.8 reciever all your bases are covered correct?
good work from an indian genius,,,,,,,,,,,,
Thanks again for that, second time I watched it,,, I am about to do one of mine tomorrow,, good video shame you did not put it to sound,, Thanks again, Pete
Just to say i did mine no trouble this afternoon, I did however not turn it inside out I just put it on as it was ,, Cheers, Pete
pepersorte hi pepersorte is there any way you can send me the links where you bought the parts and a photo of your new trasmiter
thanks
14wacawaca Have I lost the thread there ,,,What parts and what transmitter. I think this is not the video I wrote or wanted to comment on, sorry about that.. . Cheers, pete
Get a helpings hand from radioshack or so, much easier when soldering
Have you ever tried to put two cams on a plane with the right (or decreased for more immersion) eye distance for a 3D view? Are there even goggles that allow to easily show different video for each eye?
Oculous would do 3d i think.
Yes, but that would probably require quite some signal converting etc.
Zeiss cinemizer 3d, i think
DerClaudius www.banggood.com/Skyzone-SKY02-5_8G-32CH-AIO-3D-FPV-Goggles-Headset-Video-Glasses-p-964134.html
thx
Great little camera!
Wow, this is awesome! Do you have a video on building the FPV "Black Box" that you're testing with? I'm interested. Thanks!~J~
Greetings, I have been researching wireless cameras for the outside of my Class A Motor Home. She is a bit old and only has one backup camera who's primary mission is to watch our Towed when we are on the road, and allow my good wife of 48 years to guide me with both her voice and hand signals over the onboard microphone when parking the 35 foot rig. This sort of rig should work fine for my purposes.
Nice vid. I would really like to get into this. So how much should I pay for a receiver for this setup?
Great Video. Looks good. I just started flying FPV with the Nano QX and have traveled around the house and outside in the yard. I believe the QX FPV only has a 25mW transmitter so 200 Mw would be a significant improvement on range I would think. I wonder how this would work on a Hubsan X4. I havent seen any info on others modding that quad, but I am sure they are out there and that it has been done. The X4 seems like a great platform as it can lift quite a bit and I love the 10 minute flight times with the 500 mAh packs. Any thoughts on this?
Hi guys....awesome video.....how far can you get the signal from???
I dont know if you all knew or not, I just found these eachine AIO FPV cameras. for like 25 bucks. very small and works off of 1S
Hey D3D, can you recommend a more current video link for this info? Thanx.
weird looking back at those now you can get the micro all in one fpv @200mw for 15$
Hey EC, can you recommend a more current (9-2018) video link for this info? Thanx.
May I use this system replacing the camera for an RCA plug and so transmit video signal from a DVD?
I'm sure someone else said this before, but I'm too lazy to search.
You could have gotten some flux to help with the soldering;)
The pre-built camera+ transmitter from horizon costs the same as the camera you have linked on Flitetest.com
This video is over a year old. Of course things are cheaper now.
Hi
can you also post video for building Receiver same or similar one which you used to test FPV camera or provide and reference video links
Be careful, the recommended TX-Modules don't fit ImmersionRC frequencies perfectly.
Those modules go from 5725, 5745, 5765, 5785, 5805, 5825 and 5845.
The IRC modules are at 5740, 5760, 5780, 5800, 5820 and 5840.
Obviously it'll work, but the there is a little difference, which will decrease range and experience. If you want a perfect experience, check out a 5,8ghz module with IRC-frequencies.
i order one micro 25 mw for 15 cash and totally love it, order 2 tore one apart and recomend for the budget builders, but dont skimp in the dvr,
this is sweet stuff. Now I have an idea of how to make my own light weight camera for different view points on a plane cool stuff.
Awesome episode, really missed info like this on the channel. Great design, thanks for sharing.
CTS makes good dip switches try the CTS-206-3 model! digikey is probably the best place to get stuff like that (think of it as an online super radio shack)
loved the video especially the fact you used the quad (nine eagles galaxy visitor 3 ) that my grandson has, so you can guess what I will be ordering, one other question will this work with the epson mover BT 200 glasses ?
Super Great DIY - Kudos to Peter! Can I just purchase one from you instead?
Very cool build! Thanks!
Peter I thought this was a great video. Very informative and something that looks really fun to build. Thanks again FT for sharing.