Shell Lost PLA Casting The Sorceress with SuspendaSlurry
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 เม.ย. 2019
- On the way to Indiana for #MRRF2019 I stopped in Ohio and grabbed my order of SuspendaSlurry and this was my 1st chance to experiment with it. I've had this model "The Sorceress" by @lubie_3D ready and waiting for a while so I got to dipping and sanding in the slurry and sand fired it in my kiln at 1500F and filled it with molten aluminium and cracked it open. If you have a suggestion for something you like to see me cast please leave it in the comment section.
The Sorceress - cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/t...
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Great video , thanks for it . My dad is a jewelry caster and my first job I work with him for 5 years , just want to point out that NEVER Pour any hot metal on a cold mold , temp should be Close to or slightly below the melting point of your metal ( too hot will make the metal burn or bubble , too cold and won’t fill in spots). Also, when. Designing the support structures and sprue ,always plan to have the metal travel the least distance to the more massive part of the object ( the woman should have been casted upside down with the metal being directly poured into her legs, butt or back , and have posts going from the thick part (body ) to the thin parts (hands/arms ) so gravity and pressure would pull the metal down from the thick parts into lower thin parts. Also quenching and removal of mould should take place while the mould is still hot , usually Only a few minutes after the metal is poured . The idea is to let the metal solidify then rapidly cool it so it shifts and breaks the mold . Hope these tips help your process
Thank you for commenting on this. These are the sort of tricks that only experience can bring and will save many of us grief. All the best to you.
Great tips man! Thanks a lot!
That’s some good advice, cool.
I think warmer molds will help a lot especially on the small and thin features. I think you're getting localized solidification on the cool walls which is obstructing your flow.
Man I really respect you! Such a creative go getter. Keep it up man!
Thank you for sharing your experience! Love the effort you put into the details, like making a time-lapse of the drying and such, to see the colorizing etc. Brilliant! Subscribed.
Thanks glad to see someone acknowledge the effort that goes into making a complete project video thanks for watching and thanks for the Sub
Thanks for sharing
very interesting. that slurry looks awesome. great video cheers
Thanks more to come thanks for watching cheers back at ya
Absolutely fascinating to watch! The big one looks like Captain Marvel with the mohawk! Keep up the great work my man.
From what I see here, there wasn't enough head pressure / thermal mass to compensate for the shrinkage of the aluminium. A big heavy feeder on the top of the head going up at least maybe 2 inches above and 2 inches wide. The runners could perhaps be a bit wider too. Also don't forget to get the pouring basin at the same height as the feeder. Also I'm not sure what glue you were using, but wax or even melted PLA would probably be better, the glue may not have fully burned away in the kiln.
Great video, keep going :c)
Great job bud. It's all about learning and improving.
Thanks boss glad you liked still want to stream I got a few idea about topics to talk about thanks for watching
Awesome sauce! And great music selection on this one!
Thanks I appreciate that sometimes it’s the hardest part and other time things line up like they were planned. Been using your mug?
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt Yup!
Badass! Just subbed. Although the heads of the models didn't come out perfectly, the detail in the rest of the cast was pretty good!
Awesome thanks for the sub I’ve got a solution to the shrinkage I THINK lots to see more to come welcome aboard
Hi Matt, I have been watching your casting development with great interest as I am wanting to re-create some of your work for live steam castings. I currently carry out lost PLA vacuum investment casting with great success using your techniques. I am very keen on using the ceramic casting option for bigger castings that I don't have vacuum flasks to accommodate. I am looking forward to seeing how you development this process. Keep up the great work!
anytime you have question feel free to contact me thanks for watchng!!!
Always pour into a hot mold, add vents to your molds. When possible, you want the details and most important bits on your pattern to be facing down so gravity ensures complete casting: the vents are important for this too
Matt, thanks for the "reality" version of your successes and failures. Actually it's really helpful. I am just starting out casting with suspenda slurry myself and was wondering if you or anyone reading this might share a 3d print gcode of the sprue you are using in this video. I love the under-the-model approach and would love to print something like that for my castings but have no idea how to build my own 3d prints. Thanks!
Getting there a little bit more every time Matt!
That's a dramatic color change for sure.
Just curious if you could make your pour basin taller. Just like head for water applications, that would put a little more pressure for better aluminum flow throughout maybe? More waste, but it will be remelted anyway.
Thanks - always fun to watch!
The height might be the factor I need to address for sure adding more head pressure I’ve been given some calculations and just haven’t figured out how to apply some of them to my hobby level applications but it’s all in the name of fun glad you enjoy it keeps me going
Btw I have something I want to send you can you drop me a line maybe email you info 😉
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt - You're getting there - step by step. It's great to see the evolution. Thanks! Will do.
This is quite old now but have you tried printing the sprues etc as part of the print to avoid problems connecting them?
Nice ceramic. For better result I personally suggest, place all three ladies upside down arround central collum as one tree. Central intake collum at least one inch in diameter. Arrange your workflow that you be able pour into still hot ceramic mould.Do not forget place vents. Good luck.
I know I'm late to this, I just ran across this video. I was a Patternmaker my whole career, I retired a couple of years ago. A couple things I seen was, if the models that I received from the foundries customer had wall stock that was thinner then .156" then I had to remodel the part. If it was a large pattern, then the foundry wanted .187 wall stock. If it was any thinner then this, they always had problem of freeze off (casting not filling). 2, your runners are way to small. Some foundries will have their gating system at half the weight of the casting. 3, foundries hate sharp corners, your gating system should have at minimum. 062 fillets and radius.
Overall, these ywo casting look pretty good. 😊
Hi Matt, thanks for the video very informative. Great video. When you do the burn out what was your firing schedule and what temperature did you go up to? I am casting glass so I use a different investment plaster, lower temperature then investment for metal. I use a kiln like yours and went up very slowly 50c to 92c hold for 6 hours to dry the mould then 100c to 700c, before i reach temperature, there was smoke everywhere and my kiln it was burning inside my kiln!
Does the bottom of pour block have to be higher than the highest point in the mold cavity to ensure weight of material forces it's way all the way up?
Such a cool product..looks like much better pours as there is much less thermal mass to heat this allowing flow better...GREAT JOB!!! Which did better, the hot or cold mold??
I get what your saying I think just reverse I think my pour basin needs to be raised up so it forces the metal. More head pressure. Burn out took 2.5 hours instead of 8 less material used so less to throw away after cracking it open and as far as hot or cold I really couldn’t tell both came out shiny I’ll have to run the test again
I think with a bit taller sprue and/or a deeper pouring cup you'd have had enough head pressure to get the head to fill better, although it probably had some shrink too as you say, since the thinner neck would have frozen before it. Great first results with the suspendaslurry!
Yes I’ve gotten some great feedback and I’ve already designed something to help with the issues hopefully fingers crossed 🤞thanks for watching
I've got a question. I've recently started doing this and I've been getting cracks on the 7or 8th coating. I have been drying it under the sun and I cant tell if it's the sun that's warping the plastic inside causing it but I don't think that's the case any other way I must've been doing wrong? Also I only have cilica sand A and not B. Is cilica sand B that crucial? But in any other cases I just want a good sturdy shell. Also is there a way I can cook the shell with a forge? I can't invest in an electrical kiln.
Seems like as successful pour. Now it's time to polish her up and put a dremel to her to fix the minor imperfections. Good job bro!
Thanks brother not perfect but I learn each time one of these days it’s going to be spot on don’t know if I’ll polish these they look great natural no pun intended 🤣
hello buddy please advise me on how long does it take to dry each layer of shell
Hey Matt. I started to work with R&R Suspenda FS but I have a problem with the burnout process. Maybe you could help cause you already tried it.
Everytime I make the burnout process the cermaich shell cracks. Probably because of the tension inside made by PLA expanding in rising temperature. I thout to prevent it I tried such a burnout cycle:
- 110*C ramp in 60min
- 110*C keep the temp in 60min (PLA gently softens to prevent it from expansion and tension)
- 260*C ramp in 180min
- 260*C keep the temp in 240min (PLA is liquid and dips out of the ceramic shell mold)
- 500*C ramp in 60min
- 500*C keep the temp 240min (the leftover PLA burnout)
but the problem is that in first ramp I always get cracks. Maybe the first ramp should be to less temperature like 60*C to make the PLA more soft in whole shell, and keep it for 60min, and after that start the cycle as above? So it is additional 120min more of burnout process. Or maybe just fire kiln for high temp and thats all?
How did you manage to burnout your printed castings?
not sure what your dipping and sand coating process is but make sure you let it dry good between coats and do 5-7 coats. and I just throw my molds in the kiln on high and let it cook never had cracking
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt Hey Matt. Thnx for answering. I will definately try to put the shell to previously heated up kiln and will see how it'll go cause I did not try that before.
What is the difference between the liquid and the powder used to make the shell?
Hey Matt. I have got just one question. What glue did you use? did it burn out well in the pla burnout process? I am thinking how to glue the sprues and vents in my actual project and got into this video.
At first I was thinking to use just a 3d pen but the problem is that it is not very strenght. The parst come off easily when trying to dip the model with sprues in the slurry.
I would be really grateful for any information about the glue.
This is what I use th-cam.com/video/RDQLz9BSXbE/w-d-xo.html
I know it’s been a few months since you put this video out but I just got a kiln and I’m a little overwhelmed. I want to the same casting process, but my kiln doesn’t have a temperature gauge. I think I can use the pyrometric cones, but I need to know what temperature to shoot for before I buy them.
I notice you put it in and turn it to high for a couple of hours.
Do you let it reach 1500F and then they are done? Or is there some other way to tell when the shells are ready and the pla is burnt out.
honestly I set it to high and set my timer once I stop seeing smoke I go for 1 more hour and sometime another after that what you really want is to not see or smell plastic anymore hope this helps
Where did you get the Suspenda Slurry? Freeman Manufacturing?
Would fluidising the liquid, and the powder make coating easier, or would it cause issues like bubbles? I saw this for powder coating one i think?
Eric Lotze not sure how I would Implement in my backyard set up
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt You can KIND of do it with air tubing for aquairums and various diffusers. Also pvc pipe to a certain extent. I can grab links if need be?
Suggest you attach your moulds to wooden poles maybe via a wooden base to keep your pouring cup clean...tape up or using rubber covering ...rotate the slurry around the pattern after you have dipped it ...don’t let it drip on the hanger before you stucco it ..investment castings sometimes tend to use a zirconia sand on the 1st primary coat for the near perfection finish, you have to make sure the layers are dry before you redip ..the colour of the slurry should change to indicate it is dry before redip...glad to see you using the sieve to act as a rain machine...enjoying as I have done hand shelled investment casting since my teens ...will watch the rest now ...I know video is over a year old so if your technique has moved on then ignore comment
Bueno x muchos años fundí,plata y algunas aleaciones de oro,hace algún tiempo aprendí que para hacer una pieza mas grande,a partir de un molde de hule,se ahoga este en petroleo x espacio de 24 horas el molde se hincha asta un 500 por ciento,pudiendo sacar una pieza mas grande,esto se logra colandole parafina,espero les sirva
Hi matt love the channel. Could you tell me what sand i need and where to source it ?
Silica sand is the best as fine as you can find I’ve heard a guy use play sand don’t know the results but the finer the better for the 1st few layers then it don’t matter as far as source other then the place I stopped at in Ohio not sure
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt thanks matt
What kiln is that?
Hi Matt, I have a question. I was just given a kiln and wanted to know what tempatures you use to melt the pla? Alos about how long does an average burn out take. Thanks for any info
Depending on the material use for the mold with this slurry I’m setting the kiln on high and 2hours it’s ready. With plaster of Paris I do a ramp up over time which totaled about 8 hours. Now my kiln only has high med and low settings for 2 zones and a temp read out hope this helps feel free to ask more questions I’ll do my best to answer thanks for watching
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt Thanks for the quick response. I do have a followup question. The kiln I was given is an older version which uses cones for its trmpature settings and there is no temp read out. I need to order these temp cones that deform and shut off the heat once the max heat is reached. The cones start at 1165 F and increase up to 1873F. My question would be what is the minimum temp needed to melt out the pla? I plan to start with plaster/ investment plaster. I dont want it any hotter than it needs to be.
Max temp you want to get plaster of Paris is 1200c if that helps
Did you ever figure this out? I’m in exactly the same situation as you right now.
Vent needs to be bigger so the metal can flow back too reduce shrinkage
the shell should be scorching and the main feeder much bigger..maybe another oven more power
Not trying to sound ignorant if I do but, I’m new to the casting world and I got my mind soaked deep in different methods here on TH-cam and don’t know which route to take. the question: is there a rule on when to use this method of dipping plus sand and dip some more. Vs. rubber molds, vs. lost wax casting, vs. sand casting. Is there a rule when to use different methods or is it a personal preference?
Thanks everyone.
Yes there are so many different methods and yes they have their time and place. For objects that don’t have unhangs or complex shapes sand might be the best choice and for other forms it’s really about the equipment if your willing to invest then it’s just a matter of finding a method that your setup can handle and well there is the matter of learning the process
Should've made the shell a little thicker.
Talvez comcigo fazer esse produto amarelo caseiro que .material usado
Where can I get the sprue runners and pouring basins at?
I designed them myself in fusion 360 I could look for them and send them if I find them but they need to be changed to help solve the shrinkage
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt I would be interested Matt. I am trying to go from sand casting to lost wax to get better detail.
Why not use the kiln to melt the aluminum? Would it be slower?
would take too long with suck a large kiln maybe if it was smaller I would
I appreciate Your effort and time on showing this investment casting in detail. I am looking for slurry. Can you please provide a online buying link of suspendary slurry and sand? I again appreciate if you provide a link.
www.ransom-randolph.com/suspendaslurry is the site I would call them up on the phone tell them what your looking for
I am looking for investment cast kit(slurry and sandA&B) in less budget. Nearly less than $50
You feed aluminium big. Runners were in the wrong place. We would have fed from the base and sprued to the finger tips. So basically you were upside down. The pouring cup is usually part of the wax pattern. Also you were knocking of that silica shell with no mask...not a problem if you use calcined clay for the stucco.
Make the connection to the Vent in the model itself
Print with Polycast instead of PLA burn out is better
I have thought about investing in some but without a useful project in mind it’s not worth it right now
I would cast this design upsidedown. It will limit the small area and keep those areas hot
I think I would have chosen (Had I had a choice) to heat the larger prior your pour... since the lesser volume the smaller on has to fill in: It would be more likely to be a successful pour regardless to not having had been heated (th-cam.com/video/njW8LxJpLmU/w-d-xo.html)
That said: thank you for sharing with us your thought process and experiences on the matter. It is very much appreciated good Sir.
i thought you were supposed to sand it while it was still wet from its dipping ?? you know , dip - sand - dip - sand - dip - sand -let dry - bake and burn out the wax - fire the glazing and then pour in the molten metal !! oh no , 300 isn't hot enough , the sand should be glowing red hot this way the casting will flow better through out the mold , you should have watched some of the pro's doing this before you did yours ..
that is exactly what I did but between layers you have to let it dry some or it's just a saggy mess and I have watch the pros but I'm not a pro I don't have all the equipment they have but thanks for stopping and leaving your negative comment it was not helpful at all
You should have done more research. You needed to drill holds all over your mold to vent, then afterwards, after burnout, plug them with slurry putty, poking small holes in the plugs. Reheat to 1500F. Have a bucket with daubers to stop leaks during the pour, preferably with a friend.
If you want a better result, choose a less ugly object to pour!
You didn’ use big enough of a pour cup. Without enough molten metal feeding the pattern, shrink deficits, ditto the thin vents and the main sprew being too close to the pattern. Also, your research should have told never pour into a cold mold. We always heated the molds before pouring.
Watching this was both interesting & painful. Can't you set up so you're not stepping over a fuel line HAZARD all the time? One day you're 'gonna trip and splash 700Deg hot metal over yourself. Enjoyed watching this though - it was very "As it really is" TH-cam. Well done : )
your sprue system is all wrong.....metal to cool......when you make the shell brush out the bubbles with a brush....buy a book on casting or go to the lib. it will help you a lot.....I am a professional bronze casting artist....hope that helps
Your pouring cups are too small. Use a paper cup and mount it higher. I run the stuff for bronze at home with wax and it's pretty much idiot proof.
hmmmm I'd be interested in your setup got a video or pics?
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt peruse my channel. You'll see it. 😉
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt th-cam.com/video/tOC98_PuSSs/w-d-xo.html
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt Did ya see my method for dewax? It has pretty much stopped my shells from cracking these days. J
Slurry name i wont buy it
بهيم
That sucked.
Thanks for sharing