FDM metal casting? | Casting Polymaker PolyCast Filament in Bronze
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2022
- Thank you to Polymaker for sending over a free spool of there PolyCast castable filament. If you want to cast FDM prints this is a great option.
Thanks for watching! If you have any questions leave a comment down below. - Shannon & Dan
Get PolyCast here: polymaker.com/product/polycas...
Get the Polysher smoothing unit: polymaker.com/product/polyshe...
Models:
Bracelet Model www.thingiverse.com/thing:7354
Vase Model www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Merch Store:
/ @clearmindjewellery
Instagram:
/ clearmindcasting
Facebook:
/ clearmindcasting
This video is not sponsored. All opinions are our own. Polymaker sent us a spool of their Polycast filament free of charge.
Some links in this description may be affiliate links, providing us a percentage of the total sale price. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
PVB Properties 01:21
Printer Settings 02:00
Print Smoothing 03:10
What makes it Castable 04:40
Comparing FDM to SLA 05:49
Burnout schedule 11:11
Casting Results 13:05
Measuring the amount of metal you need 16:30
I am curious to know why there was no zoomed shot of the final result so we could see in details what it looked even in its raw form
yeah seriously wtf
Exciting to see someone else trying out PolyCast. I have been working with it for several years but on a larger scale and with ceramic shell. Have not played with the smaller scale and investment but definitely curious. Thank you for you insights.
Well,
this is going to cause me to fall down a rabbit hole of research. This is so cool! Thank you for this video
Thanks for this demonstration - very useful information.
Thanks a lot Of just got a Ender v3 2 neo I was curious about was castable pla
Thanks again
Pretty great video, thank you
What kind of printing profile do you use for polycast filament? Speed , layer height, temperature, nozzle size ?
Prusa Mini+ with a cooling shroud mod. PrusaSlicer 2.4, I used the Prusament PVB profile 215C Base layer, 210C for the rest, 75C Heated Bed.
45mm/s perimeters 70mm/s infill.
0.4 nozzle.
Do you have the Polymaker affiliate link we can use? Very nice review btw. (dont want to use amazon)
Unfortunately we only have an amazon affiliate link for the PolyCast: amzn.to/3tEPm7t but do not have a Polymaker affiliate.
Just got a Polymaker Affiliate: polymaker.com/product/polycast/?aff=65
How about you show us a close up of the actual result instead of just waving it around.
What did you make the casting slurry from?
We use R&R plasticast which is an investment meant for casting with plastics and 3D prints.
You can also do Prestige OPTIMA or a variety of other investments meant for plastics in this process. pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag#?aff=24
Hi, nice video, could you tell me what the burnout cycle was please (temp and time). Thanks
we use a similar burnout cycle for all 3d printed materials th-cam.com/video/FdckYTV2rJg/w-d-xo.html
What's the ranking of the alphasense resin on your list? I see it on there but no information.
We just received it over the weekend. Testing is still ongoing
@@ClearMindJewellery ok thanks for the response! I look forward to the review.
what material did you use for PLASTER ??
R&R Plasticast
try the boric acid (1% to plaster) if you don't want to use the nails. it might give enough support for the failed vase.
did you vacuum the flask? I would have assumed the bracelet would have cracked and plaster get inside as the infill was not 100%. So I am guessing you did not not.
We vacuumed the flask as shown in our casting montage. Didn’t want to risk the bubbles.
We will probably remove the spru across the vase lip before doing something with the investment. That spru may have help create a break point.
@@ClearMindJewellery I saw you vacuumed the mixing bowl, but the flask is not shown being vacuumed, goes from pour of flask to removal from kiln. Which is why I asked.
I've never actually seen something like this
You failed to mention: PVB is highly hygroscopic, rapidly absorbing humidity from the air, and becoming moist. It's apparent with the excessive stringing in your video at 3:05. Evidence of stringing is even visible after you cleaned it. This would also explain the numerous jams you described, as moisture expands the filament and instantly vaporizes when it hits the hotend, which increases heat-creep, causing jams when the filament retracts into the cooler part of your heat-break.
The PolyCast application notes clearly state "humidity of no more than 20% during storage and
use, and recommend printing from Polymaker’s PolyBox (purchased
separately)"... or similar enclosure.
Moisture will also affect the burnout process, which increases the possibility of shell cracking failure. The PolyCast Notes also explain, "To dry the printed patterns, expose the patterns to well-circulated hot air at 50 °C for at least 1 hour".
You were correct about one thing at the end, "You have to know what you're doing", which you certainly didn't when making this video.