Thanks!! I really dont like posting things that dont go quite right, but this is new, and a learning experience for me. Groot looks very good though, so that shows what is possible. Thats the important part... Hvae a few more things in the work, need to check and see if ok to make a video of them.
Showing your experiences will undoubtedly help others and in turn might bring in a few suggestions from fellow viewers that also cast. Looking forward to what ever comes next, the good, the bad and the included.
Careful though, if block casting letting the temp drop below 500 can cause the investment to fracture/ crack. I kept calling the shell a flask in the video...force of habit...LOL
Very good video with insight to process. Showing or commenting on some failure is helpful: the vents, the hook, pouring cup material, etc. Two questions. What slurry mix are you using, commercial or homemade and was there a difference in finish between the casting and the cup (you mentioned they seemed to be 'taking' the slurry a little differently)? Thanks again for this and your other videos.
Rawah Forge and Foundry The slurry is ransom and randolph suspendaslurry. No difference in surface finish. It just seemed like it stuck better to jar jar binks, who was printed in the moldlay filament.
Couple of thoughts. Your sand looks pretty course. Can you strain it to separate the finer stuff out for the first two coats...? This will only help with surface finish. You learned the tough way the wax vents were too small in diameter. Remember Zap schooling me when I used that thin red wax initially on my sprue job of the jewelry box? Bigger is always better, you can cut it off so why risk it right? David, I think this one is a WIN personally. The warmer shells helped a lot. Your BP that I poured in Aluminum, that shell was 1700.. WHOOPS! I didn't know at the time. lol I take it, you backed down the fill when you printed these? The burnout looked excellent and your hook system works a treat. Nice plug for the site too! See ya online. Hey! Where is your pyrometer for dialing in that metal?
Sometimes printing components separate from the sprue, vent and riser is beneficial. Two examples could include; reduction in required support material and decreased cycle times when printing sprue, vent and risers at coarser resolutions.
No, you would have a crazy amount of support material to remove which is extremely labor intensive and a much higher chance of a print failure. As Evan has said, you also have issues of more print time and higher material costs.
Impressive! When casting brass and sterling I definitely need a leather welders jacket and apron. You must be able to tolerate the heat on bare arms. Also on my castings, I thermal shock the investment off in water, but have never done shell casting; only investment and sand casting. My channel has some videos if you're interested.
grantham418 Thanks for the compliments. I was unhappy with the yellow brass casting, but the red brass one was perfect. Ill give it a couple more tests once i get caught up with other projects.
@@aonemarine Oke, thats not to bad. Do you feel like this can be used to cast things like triggers, receivers, etc. etc. Im looking for something to cast a winchester high wall with. At least im trying to find out if this is something that is possible with this method. Its a steel cast. And that requires more heat. But if you pre heat the mold, and make the material to be poored hot enough, and fluxed and drosted very well. It should be possible right??
@@jeffjefferson2676 There is a different slurry for ferris metals and different sand. But it is pretty common to use shell casting for steel. The main problem you will run into is melting the steel. You will need either an induction furnace or a arc furnace, both of which are out the the realm of home hobby cssting..
@@aonemarine You could build an induction furnace. There are several things that are inducting that ive ran into (gundrill/reamer welding, brass annealing on an inline bullet factory), so i kind of need to know what is the deal with this topic. There is this book that i am looking for: www.asminternational.org/search/-/journal_content/56/10192/06522G/PUBLICATION. But it costs money, and i dont know if it holds everything that i would need to know... I have designed a kiln that can work out fine too! Its not to expensive if you can build things yourself! (ive got some links on my channel at the about section, the kiln however i did not upload yet... ) A gas burner cannot melt steel sufficiently?
Great video! Finally found info on how to make a shell mold
Very Cool...I was wondering how PLA and using slurry would work...thanks for sharing...& keep experimenting...
I like following the process and the AAR when it is done. Thanks for another vid.
Thanks!! I really dont like posting things that dont go quite right, but this is new, and a learning experience for me. Groot looks very good though, so that shows what is possible. Thats the important part... Hvae a few more things in the work, need to check and see if ok to make a video of them.
Showing your experiences will undoubtedly help others and in turn might bring in a few suggestions from fellow viewers that also cast.
Looking forward to what ever comes next, the good, the bad and the included.
Nice vid. Can u add a material description list. I want to try this out but have no idea of what materials to buy for the ceramic slurry and sand.
the ceramics is
SuspendaSlurry by Ransom and Randolph, it doesn't seem like it's super easy to get your hands on though, and it's a bit expensive.
Very nice! I think they both turned out good. I didn't know that about aluminum and surface finish with flask temp, thanks for the info.
Careful though, if block casting letting the temp drop below 500 can cause the investment to fracture/ crack.
I kept calling the shell a flask in the video...force of habit...LOL
lol I thought for a second you had a hand grenade on the bench then I realized it’s a fuel primer bulb
Very good video with insight to process. Showing or commenting on some failure is helpful: the vents, the hook, pouring cup material, etc. Two questions. What slurry mix are you using, commercial or homemade and was there a difference in finish between the casting and the cup (you mentioned they seemed to be 'taking' the slurry a little differently)? Thanks again for this and your other videos.
Rawah Forge and Foundry
The slurry is ransom and randolph suspendaslurry.
No difference in surface finish. It just seemed like it stuck better to jar jar binks, who was printed in the moldlay filament.
Couple of thoughts. Your sand looks pretty course. Can you strain it to separate the finer stuff out for the first two coats...? This will only help with surface finish. You learned the tough way the wax vents were too small in diameter. Remember Zap schooling me when I used that thin red wax initially on my sprue job of the jewelry box? Bigger is always better, you can cut it off so why risk it right? David, I think this one is a WIN personally. The warmer shells helped a lot. Your BP that I poured in Aluminum, that shell was 1700.. WHOOPS! I didn't know at the time. lol I take it, you backed down the fill when you printed these? The burnout looked excellent and your hook system works a treat. Nice plug for the site too! See ya online.
Hey! Where is your pyrometer for dialing in that metal?
The sand is graded, so sifting it would not help any. Its really not that coarse any way.
Ive never used a pyrometer ....
I like ur furnace design .... is that ur own or are there plans for it somewhere. Nice video ... thanks
Teşekkür ederim video için
Ótimo vídeo alguém pode compartilhar os componentes e quantidades dos refratários?
Dope
Hola por favor que tipo de arena usas y que compuesto es el baño cerámico??? MUCHAS GRACIAS!!!
Yes thanks for this but why..... why WHY JAJA BINKS!!!! Kidding, great video man :)
I was going to dip in slurry then sprinkle powdered clay or plaster. Looking forward to seeing how sand works.
Sim caro
It's not just sand. Use the products recommended by the slurry manufacturer.
I see a flathead V8 print!! Is that STL available?
Where did you get those screw in hooks?
would it be easier to 3d print the whole thing, vents, risers, sprues etc in one go?
Sometimes printing components separate from the sprue, vent and riser is beneficial.
Two examples could include; reduction in required support material and decreased cycle times when printing sprue, vent and risers at coarser resolutions.
No, you would have a crazy amount of support material to remove which is extremely labor intensive and a much higher chance of a print failure. As Evan has said, you also have issues of more print time and higher material costs.
i know I'm quite randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Orion Odin Flixportal
@Roger Layton thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it !!
I have a cuestio
What is it the liquid yellow?
Was that Primecote binder and then regular sand for your shell from R &R?? I have been dying to get results like this...
No prime coat, just the fs
thehomefoundry ok thanks man!!
Impressive! When casting brass and sterling I definitely need a leather welders jacket and apron. You must be able to tolerate the heat on bare arms. Also on my castings, I thermal shock the investment off in water, but have never done shell casting; only investment and sand casting. My channel has some videos if you're interested.
grantham418
Thanks for the compliments.
I was unhappy with the yellow brass casting, but the red brass one was perfect. Ill give it a couple more tests once i get caught up with other projects.
so with the slurry you don't need a release agent ?
mbauer47 no release agent. Removing the shell is like busting up concrete though...
If you dip your casting into water while it's hot it'll release the sculpture easier !
Alguien sabe cómo se llama o se fabrica la lechada refractaria para el recubrimiento en la cera perdida
Fantastic~ Can I get the brand name ( item name ) of the liquid ceramic material? Where can I order? please?
Suspendaslurry by Ransom and Randolph
Drop in water?
Ola amigo como faço pra comprar esse produto amarelo
Como posso fazer esse produto amarelo
What compound are you using to make the shell with?
Its suspendaslurry
@@aonemarine Oke, thats not to bad. Do you feel like this can be used to cast things like triggers, receivers, etc. etc. Im looking for something to cast a winchester high wall with. At least im trying to find out if this is something that is possible with this method.
Its a steel cast. And that requires more heat. But if you pre heat the mold, and make the material to be poored hot enough, and fluxed and drosted very well. It should be possible right??
@@jeffjefferson2676
There is a different slurry for ferris metals and different sand. But it is pretty common to use shell casting for steel. The main problem you will run into is melting the steel.
You will need either an induction furnace or a arc furnace, both of which are out the the realm of home hobby cssting..
@@aonemarine You could build an induction furnace. There are several things that are inducting that ive ran into (gundrill/reamer welding, brass annealing on an inline bullet factory), so i kind of need to know what is the deal with this topic. There is this book that i am looking for: www.asminternational.org/search/-/journal_content/56/10192/06522G/PUBLICATION. But it costs money, and i dont know if it holds everything that i would need to know...
I have designed a kiln that can work out fine too! Its not to expensive if you can build things yourself! (ive got some links on my channel at the about section, the kiln however i did not upload yet... )
A gas burner cannot melt steel sufficiently?
@@jeffjefferson2676
Join the forum, you will learn what you need there...
What are the components of the liquid and powder used to make the shell
I have no idea, I just buy the stuff premade
@thehomefoundry Can you give me a link?
@@user-oz2mk3po7c www.ransom-randolph.com/suspendaslurry
@thehomefoundry thanks bro
What slurry are you using?
That's the R&R suspendaslurry
@@aonemarine many thanks
Join the forum!! forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php
@@aonemarine does the slurry ever dry up in the bucket, or can you just put the lid back on and it stays liquid for extended periods of time? years?
@@thebucketmouse so far it hasn't. But it does require alot of mixing if you leave it sit too long
What do you do with the discarded shell once you break it off?
save it, it can be used as grog if making a large block type investment casting...
thehomefoundry I wonder if it can ground back down to a smaller grade.
What brand of slurry are you using ?
suspenda slurry
oh nice I also use Suspenda
you should show the dewaxing process, otherwise its less informative as it intended to be.
here is an idea,... print the spru base with the stupid little Jar-Jar,...
Intro is too loud