Mortar Mix Lost PLA Casting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2019
- Looking for an alternative to Plaster of Paris for making my molds in this video I try out a bag of Mortar Mix with some lost pla casting. Some success and some not so much but I did learn something. Few messages about an upcoming event hint #MRRF2019
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Thanks for the video. I like it when people dare to experiment and show both their successes and failures.
Met you at MRRF last year and have been watching your videos since then. Glad to see you are making it back again.
It’s my vacation 😁 I can’t wait please find me and say hi thanks for watching
Matt's math, lol luv it. Another sweet video thanks for sharing. God bless
Another great video! Can't wait to see you at MRRF again this year brother!
Thanks man and I'm so excited for MRRF see you in a week
Well done, thanks for posting
You definitely should take the castings to MRRF. Examples, even of failures, can always help others who are interested in the process. Thanks Matt!
Oh ya that was the plan all along got to represent for sure 😁 thanks for watching
19:37 Oh no, that soundtrack... JUDGEMENT DAY! 😱
Matt, Loved meeting you day at Day 2 of MRRF
Pretty cool. That sure is a long processthough having to wait for printing to complete, prep, firing process, fingers crossed for finished product.
Yes many hours involved with each casting project for sure but this keeps me out of trouble 😁
I think dipping thr parts in a plaster slurry. Snd let it dry. Redip it a few times then place in a buckt or container of dry sand. And if mortar is used, maybe build a small mill like something similar to what is used to mill flour and corn. Only using steel. Start small maybe 8" to 12" diameter, or so then a sheet metal surround wiyh it clamped to the disc. About half the diameter to 3/4 the diameter. Then make a çouple or 3 rollers riding under s bar in a 1.5" shaft coming through the center of the disc, with a tube as tall as the tin surround. Theshafr having sealed bearings in the tube, and an additional rubber seal. The rollers bring at least 2" dia. and just under half the diameter of the disc in length, 8" disc, being between 2.5" & 3" long, using bushings and runner seals to mount so they can roll around the disc like a race track, using an sheet metal scraper attached to an additional cross bar in the shaft, to scrapr the center tube wnd the outer tin wall. A 1/8" piece of angle or flat bar will work. The rollers attached to 3/8"x4" bar, with bracing and gussets. Possibly using either a car coil spring, eith a 2k, lb, hydraulic jack to push on the rollers. Or a 5gallon bucket if concreteto add pressure when rolling, it will work much better with 6" or larger rollers. Use it to crush sand into powder to mix with mortar, unless you want to buy ultra fine sand, possibly like that used in media blasting (sand blasting) and it may not be fine enough. The typical play sand is more cosrse than id want to use. If the mortar mix is coars run it through the mill as well. It should make flour or powdered sugar, baby powder smooth sand, the plate and. Rollers need to be hardened and ground smooth. If nothing else use cold rolled steel, hard face weld it two layers, then grind smooth, with atleast the equal of 220-320 grit sandpaper 400 would be better, use a gear reduction motor with about 15-20 rpm, use a 2" hole in the surround, with s sheet cover filling the hole. Start the mill, add a 1gallon bucket to slowly fill the mill, when the sand/mortar has been rolled about 6x or been running for about 5 minutes, open the drain catch in a bucket , cover the hole add add more until finished, the mortar can. Be mixed with near 50% sand test small amounts , it will get more brittle with more sand, too much to build with. Having it so it just stays together to do a pour, even using it in a bucket of dand to help it stay in one piece. Maybe use 10-20%total mortar. Just enough to hold the sand together, it can probably be crushed again. Add about 20% mortar and use again. I have heard of epoxy resin mixed with sand to make sand cores, the pour burns out the resin leaving a clump of sand that is easy to remove, about the same as water glass. Just an idea, of course a 36" plate with 12" rollers made from 1/2" wall pipe, 1/2" end plates, filled with lead, on 1" shafts. Hard faced and ground. With a 200lb weight attached. Would work better, possibly Hold 50 lb oer run, but small is cheaper. I don't know where you can buy powdered sand,?
Looking forward to seeing you at MRRF again.
Awesome same here so pumped can’t wait
I know it was years ago, but have you tried just dipping the part in plaster, and using sand to support it when pouring??
Great video! Plaster of Paris here in the uk is SO expensive, you are lucky Matt! I’ve still to my small hoard as I’m so worried I’ll waste it ( and waiting until the opportunity arises). Interesting about the cement, it hadn’t occurred to me that it’d be awful to remove after. The benchy turned out great too.
Oh it was so horrible there is still some stuck behind the benchy‘s steering wheel lol something new is coming picking it up on the way to MRRF 😁
is there an advantage to burning the plastic prior to pouring? just lt the molten metal burn the plastic?
best to leave wrapped up for 72 hrs to complete 80% of hydration strength, when freshly poured use a palm sander on side of mold to raise bubbles to surface
Be aware that "mortar mix" contains sand, portland, and lime. The lime has poor heat resistance and is probably the cause of most of your cracking. To avoid that lime you would want to purchase a "sand mix" in the store which will contain just portland and sand.
Your break out would much easier if you added 75 % sand to 25 % cement . Used a similar mix to anchor sprinkler heads for temporary irrigation . It broke up easily with a hammer in the fall .
Are you using any flow improver?
I think your pour runners and vents need to be bigger around...the aluminum looks like it might be cooling too fast before it fills up the mold properly...it is filling, but not rushing in in a thick flow
Either way...that is such an AWESOME pour man..looks like that might be the medium to go with even though cleanup is a bit harder
Great Job...keep em coming!
I really like the Benchy.
Something that may help is keeping your mold as warm as you can. That way the metal won't start cooling the moment it hits. (sort of ha ha) or look in to using a vacuum to pill the metal down in to the mold. Either way, your mold still look great. thank you for these videos!
the vacuum thing I have though about but not real workable and if my pours where more then a few seconds cooling might be an issue I believe my issues are all gating I'm tweaking it each time and learning something glad you like my videos they will keep coming stick around and thanks for watching
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt your videos have helped me learn quite a bit. Your are videos where I first started watching when I got interested in lost pla.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing your experience. A small piece of unsolicited advice: you would get better resolution if you vibrated the wet plaster/mortar. I set mine on my running table saw for 10 seconds or so just after the plaster is poured.
Yes I didn’t show it well but I did have something to vibrate it but it don’t help if you run out 🤣 I wouldn’t suggest this material as a mold but was worth the experiment. Glad you enjoyed hope check out some of my other videos and hope your a sub there will be more soon happy holidays
Try plaster of paris but use a mixing container that keeps it moving and dip your print then wait then keep dipping and drying the outside then put that into casting sand that you pack
Great content brother
Love the benchy floating scene. Lol
Lol I raised it up to high out of the camera view while talking about it I had to have a filler b-roll shot to cover lol
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt well done sir!. Lol
Great video. Do you think it would help to vacuum the bubbles out before molding?
Most definitely just no vacuum available but I got something in the works game changer
If you make your molds in sections of 5-10" (or so) steel cylinders (cut big sewer pipes and sand bottoms smooth), then cut a 4" hole in the top of a pressure cooker, tap it and add fittings to make a vacuum chamber, drop a thick ring of silicone mat so the pipe seals itself to the lid, crank up a cheap vac pump, then it will pull the metal into more detail. Also I would add silica fume to your investment for more detail. OH, and paint a few coats of investment on your wax/pla model first to, then you don't get bubble defects
Have you ever tried Investment???
its finer grained and recyclable!!
😉
See you at MRRF dude! -Jim
Awesome I’ll have a little something for ya
you can reclaim your plaster... After casting, Bake the water out of it, at around at least 330 and break it up with a hammer and screen it. The powder can used just like plaster. I mix fresh plaster 50/50 with fine sand makes it shrink less and crack less. I don't know about mortar. I have to use a metal tube to hold the plaster when I use wax shapes due to the wax expanding causing inner cracks in the mold as you melt it out. (Truck muffler pipe works great) Ill have to check the expansion of pla as it heats to see how bad it is. Try a nice LONG Pour tube to pressurize the cast for all that detail to come out.
The investment casting industry uses plaster. However, they use a thin layer to detail the shape, then use successive layers reinforced with silica. Makes a huge difference.
to prevent cracking?
@@paulfreudenburg7562 - yes. The silica acts much the same as aggregate stone in concrete, to prevent the plaster from cracking. They also use certain admixes to the plaster to reduce water content... which is what cause the fractures when fired.
@@sylentxtinction2097 do you per chance know how they do the initial thin plaster coat? do they just dip it in plaster then put it in the mould then fill the mould with the reinforced plaster?
@@paulfreudenburg7562 - from what I've seen, they make the first dip in a revolving slurry, so as to fill all the details, then dust the wet plaster with coarse silica. After this, it is just a repeating process of dipping in a separate slurry (presumably to prevent contamination of the virgin plaster) and dusting again with silica, until they have a sufficient casing. There are several videos here on TH-cam of industrial scale investment casting. I obviously haven't watched them all... but of the ones I have seen, the process is ubiquitous for small pieces.
I'm certain one of the keys to success lies in the embedding of silica in the first dip. Without it, there is no aggregate to disperse the stresses within the plaster as it cools, which is what causes cracking... when the stress of temperature variants are literally pulling throughout the plaster as it cools.
One might could mitigate the fractures with gradual cooling... but the amount of time and fuel it would take to achieve a successful gradient would be prohibitive, at best.
I watched a video that included using a vacuum pump, maybe you could use that to help with removing air bubbles.
I have been wanting to add one to my arsenal just don’t do enough to justify the investment but great suggestion thanks for watching
Vibrations works fine too.
Take a cheap sander and screw it to the table. Or a 3/4hp motor with a pulley. Cut off a piece from pulley and you will get good vibrations.
A drillingmashine with an allenkey could also work
At 4:28 I am predicting that the aluminum will freeze before the petals fill because the feeders and the pour cup are too small. The small cup won’t have enough mechanical mass to push the aluminum into such tiny feeders nor enough thermal mass to keep it molten ir vice versa.
Keep watching
I know I'm late to the show but I like how you show your failures and NOT just your successes. Just found this channel by surfing.
In my opinion (which don't mean much)
1) Shouldn't you use a vibrator or a vibrator table after you do a pour ?
2) Even your failures have value. Wouldn't you be able to sell some of those failures to a pet store ? Think fish tank ornaments.
3) I do some casting too. Shouldn't the vents be larger ? I noticed some of the vents you had did not fill to the top and expel air and AL.
Maybe do half morter and half plaster of paradise
You still casting?
Go to HF and get a cheap sandblaster You can use different media in it.
Do not use any sand in your mix.
First! Oooo I've always wanted to say that ;-)
Lol wow that was fast
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt Just happened to be sitting here when the notification came in. Hey, thanks for the shout out!
Your welcome still want to do a stream together 👍
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt Me too. I'll email you in a bit... still working :-/
I am glad that your level of perfection and mine aren't the same
Hopefully one day you will be on par.
Plaster of Paris mix with clay powder and ground up playsand
paint and seal inside of box
When you’re watching some random TH-camr you just found experiment with investment casting, and he mentions he’s about to take a trip to your hometown. 😮
Is that a Kawasaki Nomad in the backround Mr Matt?
It sure is you know your saddlebags 😁
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt yes sir. I own a 99 nomad and I love it I ride with globe Arizona vulcan riders, which is part if Vulcan riders USA.. My next one will be a voyager.
Nice mine is an 08 and I ride with no one I’m a long wolf just like to ride and don’t like to follow 😉 NY roads SUCK!!!
@@InsideTheMindOfMatt I'm still a rookie rider so for now I like to ride with people just for my own safety. Arizona has awesome roads and rides to do. Pretty much all year.
Moved to Florida when i was 14 and you can get your motorcycle permit at 14 rode all through high school didn't have one for years but got this back in 09 64k on it did have a few friends that rode here in NY but they can be flaky i just like to get on it when i want and go where i want groups are cool to i like going to rallies big one in Lake George NY every year Americade don't know if you heard of it but is a good time some day I'll make Sturgis
I see a vodka right there, maybe that was the reason of failure ))
Try ceramic slurry and sand.
Ordered just need to pick it up next week on the way to MRRF 😉
hey bro if the mortar MIX is working for you then try purchasing just straight super mortar 94# bag cheap and purchase some bags of fine sand, sometimes called sugar sand, the finer the better and mix 4:1 this is way cheaper than the premixed
I’ve invested in my investment since this video. This was just an experiment.
Awe man!! I wanted to be first! Lol
To slow
Maybe it's because I'm watching this while cooking dinner, but perhaps next time to avoid 'oh crap' moments, ladle it in?
scrap up that spillage
thats 4 sand and one super
That’s why they use mortar for building construction and not plaster Paris. Good effort though.
Ya it’s all in the name of experimenting thanks for watching :)
if you vacuum cast it you will be fine
Possibly I would like to have one but the suspendaslurry has been the solution I think
if you removed the cardboard it would cure much faster
vacuum it
Oh if I had one I surely would have but unfortunately i don’t
Hi good job frend but i have somme commente a boute safety bé carfule frend you must be mâle somme protection for ex dont working behined car if somme tink hapen you dont now
Well, my prediction about the rose is mute, because you did something even dumber but the void in the benchy is a an example. It may take more metal, but damn, it’s basic knowledge that small pour cup cannot do their other job, to provide a reservoir of molten metal to fill shrink deficits, and small vents, gates and sprews will prevent the free flow of that reservoir’s contents. Basic stuff, man. I wish I had my own home so I could show how it is done. A little logic would help you a lot, without my years working as a foundry artisan.
I’m not here giving instructions let that be clear I don’t claim to know what I’m doing I’m experimenting if you have some serious tips and info I’m interested please and thanks