Very cool Frank! I think you've done an outstanding job putting that machine together! I really like the early 70's Monarch paint scheme. I thought the video was very nicely done also. Guys like you and Paul Brodie just seem to operate on another plane..........
My Chase TY frame doesn't have a return spring on the rear brake pedal. It relies entirely on the brake shoe springs for the pedal return. I was initially dubious, but it seems to work fine.
Dam Frank, I know why you are known as "frank the Welder" super educational, just watching gives you subtle knowledge. the fast forward and music is entertaining. Great shop, do you have enough C clamps? The ride at the end reminded of the place we rode a couple of years agol
At 34:45, you videoed me photographing you. My camera focused on the foreground and you were fuzzy so I didn't initially include the photos in the event album. This morning I ran an AI sharpening algorithm on your photos and the improvement is pretty astounding. These photos are now in both the NETA website & FB albums from the event. I like the slow speed video in the sections. It's dramatic.
Thanks, Ill take a look at that image today. I was surprised going over the wall how close the cross bar pad got to the camera in the slo-mo. I increased the slow mo film speed by 400%!
@@therealfrankthewelder YSS emulators are copies of Racetech and much cheaper. Road bike motors dont really have enough flywheel weight for trials, if you added more the 185 would be lots better. Have a look at the WES trials bike exhausts. They use aluminium extrusions, and if you can get similar sort of extrusions in the US, would be a good way to make a more effective mid box. I know the manufacturer of Falcon shocks very well, also Warren Collins, and Bob Ginder who used to import Falcon in the US. If you want a more effective motor, try and get a TY175, or if that's difficult a Blaster, only issue with them is lack of flywheel weight, but they run well and can be converted to bigger capacity cheaply.
@@humourless682 Thanks for the YSS info. The engine power is pretty good at the low end it's just a bit excitable at 4000 RPM or so. My main issue is location of the clutch actuation lever (no space to lengthen) , kick start shaft (too low) and primary drive ratio and available space for swing arm pivot. .. I agree with your comments about the pipe. I am going to make the headpipe 125mm longer and build a large midbox in place of the cone pipe. I think the PE and RS motors have a lower primary ratio and closer ratios in the gear set and meet my other desires. The suzuki 185 clutch is east to tune. I like my Falcon shocks but I am running these at too high leverage for the damping to work properly. I do have room for disc type weight under my ignition cover
@@therealfrankthewelder The transfer velocity is probably too high? In many cases the ducts themselves as well as the port openings are very small, and will tend to mean a distinct power band. If you were able to fit a reed valve to it, the motor would work far better. Clutch can easily be sorted by fitting a hydraulic conversion. A shorter header pipe, in conjunction with a large volume alloy middle box, will improve scavenging, and give more power and torque. Longer front pipes tend to flatten the power curve, and seem to reduce ability to over rev? Parts to alter the damping are available from Falcon, but they do seem to work very well with minimal rebound damping.
@@humourless682 I could do all of those things to this motor but it makes more sense to me to use a more suitable platform like the PE175 and shave the bottom of the cylinder to lower ports, increase compression and adjust squish band on a motor with a much better configuration. I may to the pipe mods on this one to test the result. Are you familiar with intake design on these motors? It's unusual.
Good build Frank... but I don't get the "Otter" connection ? Harry Foster used the "Otter Products" title to the frame's he made in the eighties... in the UK mainly for BSA engines ...
Very cool Frank! I think you've done an outstanding job putting that machine together! I really like the early 70's Monarch paint scheme. I thought the video was very nicely done also. Guys like you and Paul Brodie just seem to operate on another plane..........
Thank you for the kind words. I am a big PB fan!
Frank never sleeps.
My Chase TY frame doesn't have a return spring on the rear brake pedal. It relies entirely on the brake shoe springs for the pedal return. I was initially dubious, but it seems to work fine.
I am doing the same thing, only the springs on the shoes.
Dam Frank, I know why you are known as "frank the Welder" super educational, just watching gives you subtle knowledge. the fast forward and music is entertaining. Great shop, do you have enough C clamps? The ride at the end reminded of the place we rode a couple of years agol
Yes! We rode at Exeter RI and I also filmed there a bit. A fella can never have too many C clamps!!
Excellent video, thanks
At 34:45, you videoed me photographing you. My camera focused on the foreground and you were fuzzy so I didn't initially include the photos in the event album. This morning I ran an AI sharpening algorithm on your photos and the improvement is pretty astounding. These photos are now in both the NETA website & FB albums from the event.
I like the slow speed video in the sections. It's dramatic.
Thanks, Ill take a look at that image today. I was surprised going over the wall how close the cross bar pad got to the camera in the slo-mo. I increased the slow mo film speed by 400%!
Love a good vintage trials, nice job 👍
Thanks, I have a another build planned for the near future.
Try emulator valves in the front forks, woven brake linings, large volume exhaust mid box, 26mm carb, and reed valve conversion.
I am considering switching to a different engine over the winter. I like your ideas though. I should try the emulator valves.
@@therealfrankthewelder YSS emulators are copies of Racetech and much cheaper.
Road bike motors dont really have enough flywheel weight for trials, if you added more the 185 would be lots better.
Have a look at the WES trials bike exhausts. They use aluminium extrusions, and if you can get similar sort of extrusions in the US, would be a good way to make a more effective mid box.
I know the manufacturer of Falcon shocks very well, also Warren Collins, and Bob Ginder who used to import Falcon in the US.
If you want a more effective motor, try and get a TY175, or if that's difficult a Blaster, only issue with them is lack of flywheel weight, but they run well and can be converted to bigger capacity cheaply.
@@humourless682 Thanks for the YSS info. The engine power is pretty good at the low end it's just a bit excitable at 4000 RPM or so. My main issue is location of the clutch actuation lever (no space to lengthen) , kick start shaft (too low) and primary drive ratio and available space for swing arm pivot. .. I agree with your comments about the pipe. I am going to make the headpipe 125mm longer and build a large midbox in place of the cone pipe. I think the PE and RS motors have a lower primary ratio and closer ratios in the gear set and meet my other desires. The suzuki 185 clutch is east to tune. I like my Falcon shocks but I am running these at too high leverage for the damping to work properly. I do have room for disc type weight under my ignition cover
@@therealfrankthewelder The transfer velocity is probably too high? In many cases the ducts themselves as well as the port openings are very small, and will tend to mean a distinct power band.
If you were able to fit a reed valve to it, the motor would work far better. Clutch can easily be sorted by fitting a hydraulic conversion.
A shorter header pipe, in conjunction with a large volume alloy middle box, will improve scavenging, and give more power and torque. Longer front pipes tend to flatten the power curve, and seem to reduce ability to over rev?
Parts to alter the damping are available from Falcon, but they do seem to work very well with minimal rebound damping.
@@humourless682 I could do all of those things to this motor but it makes more sense to me to use a more suitable platform like the PE175 and shave the bottom of the cylinder to lower ports, increase compression and adjust squish band on a motor with a much better configuration. I may to the pipe mods on this one to test the result. Are you familiar with intake design on these motors? It's unusual.
Great stuff!
Thanks!
Good build Frank... but I don't get the "Otter" connection ? Harry Foster used the "Otter Products" title to the frame's he made in the eighties... in the UK mainly for BSA engines ...
Oh my apologies, I thought I had heard that name applied to the genre of modified bikes.
Great great job! Frank, did you alter the headstock angle without a jig?
Thank you! I have a nice motorcycle frame fixture but I used a thick welding table and angle plates to check straightness.
Oh yeah, I meant to ask is that a BSA triple in the background? Are you working on a cafe' racer too?
It's a Ducati! and top secret so far..haha
@@therealfrankthewelder