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Oh my apologies, I thought I had heard that name applied to the genre of modified bikes.

Yes! We rode at Exeter RI and I also filmed there a bit. A fella can never have too many C clamps!!

I am considering switching to a different engine over the winter. I like your ideas though. I should try the emulator valves.

@@therealfrankthewelder YSS emulators are copies of Racetech and much cheaper. Road bike motors dont really have enough flywheel weight for trials, if you added more the 185 would be lots better. Have a look at the WES trials bike exhausts. They use aluminium extrusions, and if you can get similar sort of extrusions in the US, would be a good way to make a more effective mid box. I know the manufacturer of Falcon shocks very well, also Warren Collins, and Bob Ginder who used to import Falcon in the US. If you want a more effective motor, try and get a TY175, or if that's difficult a Blaster, only issue with them is lack of flywheel weight, but they run well and can be converted to bigger capacity cheaply.

@@humourless682 Thanks for the YSS info. The engine power is pretty good at the low end it's just a bit excitable at 4000 RPM or so. My main issue is location of the clutch actuation lever (no space to lengthen) , kick start shaft (too low) and primary drive ratio and available space for swing arm pivot. .. I agree with your comments about the pipe. I am going to make the headpipe 125mm longer and build a large midbox in place of the cone pipe. I think the PE and RS motors have a lower primary ratio and closer ratios in the gear set and meet my other desires. The suzuki 185 clutch is east to tune. I like my Falcon shocks but I am running these at too high leverage for the damping to work properly. I do have room for disc type weight under my ignition cover

@@therealfrankthewelder The transfer velocity is probably too high? In many cases the ducts themselves as well as the port openings are very small, and will tend to mean a distinct power band. If you were able to fit a reed valve to it, the motor would work far better. Clutch can easily be sorted by fitting a hydraulic conversion. A shorter header pipe, in conjunction with a large volume alloy middle box, will improve scavenging, and give more power and torque. Longer front pipes tend to flatten the power curve, and seem to reduce ability to over rev? Parts to alter the damping are available from Falcon, but they do seem to work very well with minimal rebound damping.

@@humourless682 I could do all of those things to this motor but it makes more sense to me to use a more suitable platform like the PE175 and shave the bottom of the cylinder to lower ports, increase compression and adjust squish band on a motor with a much better configuration. I may to the pipe mods on this one to test the result. Are you familiar with intake design on these motors? It's unusual.

It's a Ducati! and top secret so far..haha

@@therealfrankthewelder

Thank you for the kind words. I am a big PB fan!

Thanks, I have a another build planned for the near future.

Thanks for checking in!

Hi, I have tried to mill it off before. It's very difficult to hold the frame by the front tubes without causing dents.

@@therealfrankthewelder Fair point. 🙂

Thank you! I have a nice motorcycle frame fixture but I used a thick welding table and angle plates to check straightness.

Thanks, Ill take a look at that image today. I was surprised going over the wall how close the cross bar pad got to the camera in the slo-mo. I increased the slow mo film speed by 400%!

I am doing the same thing, only the springs on the shoes.

Thanks!

Thank for for the kind words. We have a lot of fun showing off our work.

Thanks Jimmy!!

Hi, I turn down the Hertz cycle frequency to around 60 but keep the wave balance tuned for longer penetration (positive) cycle and allow 30 seconds of preheat if the frame is cold. For the 7005 frames I use 5356. Here is a link to the formula. www.alcotec.com/us/en/support/upload/a5356tds.pdf

@@therealfrankthewelder Thank you a lot , really

Bee's wax.

@@therealfrankthewelder Thank you!

We only do the fabrication, nothing to do with finishing though we do have a huge bead blast machine.

@@therealfrankthewelder so it came to you like that? I'm just curious how they removed the original paint

@@janeblogs324 Sorry, I didn't read your question correctly. We use acid to remove paint. 😁

Our high-temp oven is too small for a bicycle frame but we can age 7005 in our low temp oven which is bigger.

Thanks! The short answer is yes! you can file it back. With thin tubes and big wide welds you also get a lot of shrinkage in the joint so you only file to a certain point and finish the job with plastic filler to avoid thinning the tubes any further.

Hi, the six holes on the right side are rivet holes for mounting cable housing stops.

Thanks, that is kind of you.

Thanks man!

Thank you!

It's a self etching zinc primer that helps prevent rust from taking hold. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Andy!

Thank you sir!

Thanks Matt!

What are you doing for heat treat?

@@therealfrankthewelder I’ll have to send it out for solution heat treat. I have an oven I built that I use for aging 7005 but obviously that won’t cut it. I’m thinking that I’ll have the heat treater do the solution heat treat cycle and I’ll pick it up right after while it’s annealed, align it at my place and then I’ll use my oven to do the aging cycle.

@@rosss11111 Perfect!

Thanks buddy!

I like them, specially when at speed.

And thanks for the biz! It was a fun project.

I am using Adobe premier elements. I am not sure what you mean by "right reading" unless I missed something? Thanks!

@@therealfrankthewelder 'right reading' when the image is as seen and not flipped, or reversed......from using the lens on the screen side of phone.....[like looking in a mirror], hope this makes sense, Paul

I have a lot to learn about video production but it's a fun journey.

I watched a couple films and see why you say that. Where you bring the camera up to the saw is also exactly what I did. Pretty remarkable.

@@therealfrankthewelder thanks for watching , like minds think alike I guess....best wishes, Paul.....

@@therealfrankthewelder the hardest part is getting good sound quality, but that is what over dubbing can help......[sound recored later]......camera movements can be difficult with out a fluid head on the tripod [viscous dampened] I find using the edit software give a much smoother effect and less jerky.....also cuts between takes are helped by a subtle dissolve ......if you look at motion pictures, there is usually a few frame dissolve that we do not see unless looking frame by frame....keep doing what you are doing, it comes across well, but keep exploring too.....best wishes, Paul

Thanks!