Since we did this troubleshooting ride and got the boat fixed .... the customer has used the boat a few times which is huge since they would normally only use it like once a year! They have said that its running perfectly now! 💗 We are glad to see them enjoying it....
I have this problem a few times a year when my boat sits for a little bit. Mud daubers were getting in the pee hole and clogging it up. Cleaning it out like you did with wire always fixed the problem. This was a great informative video.
@@WillFixThat I was trying to clean the hole with a wire in the same way and the wire broke inside. What do you suggest me to do, is it easy to remove the wire inside?
I saw the mud dobers comment and I too have that problem and use 300 LB mono to clean out the pee line. Then I use a piece of the and leave it stuck in line to prevent the dobers from doing it again with a piece of bright plastic to remind me to remove when running.
Our issue was a build up of salt unfortunately! But, someone also mentioned they put colored tape over their hole too block anything from getting inside!
Another great video and successful repair and yes, that's a nice boat. The low-tide sand bar was a troubleshooting clue suggesting a clogged water line. It might be good to suggest to the owner to keep a short length of wire in the on-board tool bag to clear the hose if it happens again. Sand is easy to pick up and usually just as easy to clear; Tampa Bay is a similar environment. We enjoy watching your work, keep sharing!
LOL on- board tool bag .... the don't have one of those! They look at us to have the tools... 😀 to do ALL their repairs. When I got on board I made sure they had life jackets since I was voluntold I was going for a boat ride. Thanks for watching ValorSailing appreciate the feedback.
I will admit I kind of fast forwarded through some of this. But if you noticed that it wasn’t peeing, why would you even attempt to run motor? Retired marine tech here. If it’s not peeing figure out if it’s just plugged pee line, bad pump or what ever. I remember a time a rookie we had did this, ran motor with motor not peeing, bad pump, we ended up putting a new power head on after he overheated it. Sorry, but unbelievable!
I’d suggest you pick up a cheap hose shut-off valve that you can close right at the muffs, instead of having to run back and forth to the spigot every time. I like your videos.
Those muffs can be an issue as well. I used the rectangular double water inlet style 1 time like you did and then couldn't get mine to pee. I read somewhere that the round muffs work better in that situation. I bought some and boat peed right away.
i used to keep an 8 foot long hunk of garden hose with a valve on one end and earmuffs on the other in my van, that way i never had to climb in and out of the boat to turn the water on.
Couple of things. Suzuki service manual says do not run engine while flushing through the top ports...only using the lower unit with muffs should the engine be ran while flushing. The correct torque for the prop is 40-43 in/lbs. That prop shaft should have been heavily coated with waterproof grease. Salt Away is not effective unless you get the engine warm enough to open the thermostats, which is around 140-150 depending on if you have the standard thermostats or the optional ones.
my suzuki 140 gets clogged alot since i fish and run very shallow water, i keep a long piece of 100 plus lb mono and just snake it into the pee hole and clears it like new every time. i would not use wire since it could make a hole in your line and end up with salt water all over your engine
If you have a problem with mud daubers, I use a "zip tie", dauber can't get in, and if you forget to remove it, it will still pee, although it will be kind of spraying and you can then remove it.
My Suzuki had weak or intermittent. Found out it was a thermostat that would half open. This year blow some can air and then all the oil came out the prop and lower unit.😢
@@WillFixThat it took two days to get all the oil off the driveway. Glad it didn’t happen in the water. Love that Suzuki put one bolt under the engine to remove oil pan.
Shhh don’t tell Matt that …. I keep telling him it’s time for a new one 🤣 actually we might do a small series of videos showing/sharing ideas for improvements that we can do! It does need some body work the wheel wells are rusting! We are the original owners & it has about 130k miles.
Never saw the old impeller in the video. Don’t know if it was just Dirt Daubers or crust blocking the pee hole. I use solder wire, it’s stiff enough to go longer distances yet will make all of the bends and curves you need. Another evidence of way too many impellers being replaced than need to be. Plenty of problems have occurred because lower units were dropped and not put back correctly. The Hondas and Suzukis pee with a lot more strength than the Yamahas. If a Yamaha is not peeing strong it might not need an impeller. I like the digital NMEA 2000 connection to my Suzuki and Yamaha motors. Both only needed a $99 decoder cable from Amazon then to an NMEA backbone to my GPS. It gives me much more data than gushes, such as water temperature. I don’t like to rely on a warning horn, many times those fail
@@WillFixThat luckily I do my own maintenance. But the manual also say to inspect the impeller every year or 100 hours. If I owned the engine and used it one time in a year and the engine looks brand new, there is no way in hell I’m paying someone to drop the lower unit for an inspection every 12 months. If it’s pissing hard and my cylinder head temps are perfect I’m not replacing it at 3 years if the engine looks new as the manual says. Mine probably has 9 years, pisses perfect, and cylinder head temps are on my GPS display, stable and solid even at idle. That means I saved 3 impeller replacements probably at a total cost of over $1000 for a mechanic. Since I have 3 motors I’ve saved over $3000 in just impellers alone much less all of the other maintenance items like oil changes. If I were to use my engine one time a year I’m not doing an oil change. I don’t care what the owners manual says, Oil DOES NOT go bad sitting in a motor for a year. Especially synthetic and it’s usually clear as a pin. Friends of mine have only had issues because they are overly OCD. One only buys new and against better judgement bought twins. Rarely used the boat but was so OCD with the manual took it in for dual service at the first year and after 25 hour bring in was accomplished. After $600 for 2 glorified oil changes they left the power on and destroyed 2 batteries. Then they must have done something else because he lost trim/tilt on one motor. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it or else someone else will break it. Second friend shared a boat and sent it in for a “Service”, essentially just an oil change every year. Without reaching near 100 hours. He calls me up that spring wondering if I can help him find an oil leak. After a quick look under a plastic cover I asked him why he did a service he didn’t need and destroyed his power head. Mechanic left the oil filter just loose enough to leak oil and when you get a warning horn you can’t ASSUME you can make it to the dock a mile away. Now he’s looking for a 250Hp four stroke, that was an expensive maintenance interval item that didn’t need to be rushed. If it ain’t broke don’t screw it up or let a mechanic screw it up for you. I’ve had to fix a lot of other mechanic’s work doing pro bono at the church. You would be amazed at the mark ups on jobs and incompetence. Not all impeller changes are easy. I just got a 77 85hp Johnson. Fortunately had to drop a lower unit for repairs on the shifter. After I dropped it noticed it has 2 copper tubes that recess into the Impeller housing. When going back in you are doing it blind. One of the copper tubes was bent and crushed. These engines aren’t wise to do an inordinate amount of impeller changes. They are difficult to place together correctly and I would say a lot of mechanic have screwed it up and IT’s not immediately noticeable to the owner.
@@WillFixThat boat is berated as expensive. I’m the new 4 stroke paradigm, I find it to be needlessly expensive. Don’t use ethanol gas that sits for a while. Use AGM batteries that don’t die off season and don’t overdue unneeded maintenance. I usually spend less than $200 a year on 3 boats unless I’m doing a refurb or major improvement.
Yes you should do fresh water flush every time especially in salt water. Our client keeps it at a marina… so not sure it’s done! 🥴 we loaded test the batteries & determined they needed to be replaced! So we upgraded from lead acid 27 to AGM 31’s since this boat is used rarely! But, since we did our sea trial they’ve used it twice which is huge for them!
Why would you not take 30 seconds and hookup the hose to the flush port, to help pin point the issue? Another guy that had turned a few wrenches, and makes us mobile guys look bad. I'm sure that impeller was absolutely perfect! Hence why we didn't see the original one.
The 55hp Suzuki I had would clog the telltale every time I went out, it seemed that the engine was forming salt crystals which would clog it. A heavy piece of monofilament plus a freshwater flush when I got home would clear it quickly, I would run it at idle for about 15 minutes after it warmed up.
Definitely change the batteries and hook up the Garmin. Nice boat and not using it is a waste. I would be fishing every day. Definitely change the water pump.
If batteries are dead in 6 months then there is a current draw somewhere even when the perk is I n the off position. And IMO Group 27 batteries should be plenty on that boat.
They rarely use the boat. It routinely sits for 6 months or more. Shame, its a very nice boat. I take it out on a sea trial whenever they think they might use it. That’s when the problems appear that I have to take care of so it runs great when they use it.
AGM batteries are very good and last 5-8+ years IF they are maintained and on a Trickle Charger when not being exercised. If the battery or batteries will be “siting” and Trickle Charging is not an option: Install a Group 31 battery like an Ionic Lithium LiFePo (Lithium Phosphate) 12 Volt, 125 Ah battery. They have 1100 cold cranking amps. 11 year warranty. Approved for Mercury 4-stroke engines. Cost is around $850 each. They drain about 1-3% per month. They are half the weight of an AGM. Only two negatives with quality Lithium batteries are they don’t charge when batteries are below freezing (you can buy a Heater version) and Lithium are expensive! I have three for my boat and have never regretted it. Fun Fact: Lead and AGM batteries lose their “starting power at around 50%. Lithium produce almost Full Power till about 95-98% drained? I would also have a NOCO Jump Starter on the boat like the NOCO GBX75 and “top that off once each year.
I agree and thanks for your input. Epoch Batteries sent me LiFePo batteries for the whaler. They have build in disconnect, heater and blue tooth. Creat batteries. I also love all things NOCO. Have several of their products. I sell mostly AGM batteries. Thanks for watching.
AJ your not helping my cause 😂 I tell Matt we need a new one since this is his daily driver & it’s getting old! We are the original owners! We might do a mini series on improving some things on the truck. Do you have any ideas?
Where I'm from I would definitely change the water pump I'm sure that took a set but if the tattle tail isn't working chances are bees got in there and made a nest but that's where I'm from
Them tear drop plates on the port side of engine 3 on head and 2 on the side of the exhaust plate they are internal anodes they should be changed no less then once a year most likely if they have not been changed then they are corroded and most likely pieces of the anodes are clogged the outlet for the pee hose
My next thought the 5 anodes need to be pulled out and cleaned out. I bet a ton of salt in the cavities. I use salt away with anodes off. Easy to flush with anodes off
@@WillFixThat I know, was just joking with you. But the boat shown launching off the fork lift was a different boat with a merc. Love your videos, keep up the good work sir.
Next time use the flush port to verify if water comes out the tattletale. Suzuki's are notoriously known for sand glogging the tattletale. They also do dont do well with ear muffs. You need to duct tabe the lower water pickup. 1🛥🇺🇲🎣
Since we did this troubleshooting ride and got the boat fixed .... the customer has used the boat a few times which is huge since they would normally only use it like once a year! They have said that its running perfectly now! 💗 We are glad to see them enjoying it....
I have this problem a few times a year when my boat sits for a little bit. Mud daubers were getting in the pee hole and clogging it up. Cleaning it out like you did with wire always fixed the problem. This was a great informative video.
Thanks for sharing … salt away took care of our issue!
@@WillFixThat I was trying to clean the hole with a wire in the same way and the wire broke inside. What do you suggest me to do, is it easy to remove the wire inside?
@@mustafaoral3247try using a zip tie 😮
I saw the mud dobers comment and I too have that problem and use 300 LB mono to clean out the pee line. Then I use a piece of the and leave it stuck in line to prevent the dobers from doing it again with a piece of bright plastic to remind me to remove when running.
Our issue was a build up of salt unfortunately! But, someone also mentioned they put colored tape over their hole too block anything from getting inside!
Another great video and successful repair and yes, that's a nice boat. The low-tide sand bar was a troubleshooting clue suggesting a clogged water line. It might be good to suggest to the owner to keep a short length of wire in the on-board tool bag to clear the hose if it happens again. Sand is easy to pick up and usually just as easy to clear; Tampa Bay is a similar environment. We enjoy watching your work, keep sharing!
LOL on- board tool bag .... the don't have one of those! They look at us to have the tools... 😀 to do ALL their repairs. When I got on board I made sure they had life jackets since I was voluntold I was going for a boat ride.
Thanks for watching ValorSailing appreciate the feedback.
I will admit I kind of fast forwarded through some of this. But if you noticed that it wasn’t peeing, why would you even attempt to run motor? Retired marine tech here. If it’s not peeing figure out if it’s just plugged pee line, bad pump or what ever. I remember a time a rookie we had did this, ran motor with motor not peeing, bad pump, we ended up putting a new power head on after he overheated it. Sorry, but unbelievable!
Thanks for your insight 👍
Ha! Yes...thanx for the insight 😂
I’d suggest you pick up a cheap hose shut-off valve that you can close right at the muffs, instead of having to run back and forth to the spigot every time. I like your videos.
Great idea we’d rather get the steps (exercise) 🤣 thanks for sharing!
Those muffs can be an issue as well. I used the rectangular double water inlet style 1 time like you did and then couldn't get mine to pee. I read somewhere that the round muffs work better in that situation. I bought some and boat peed right away.
Thanks for sharing our issue was the motor was full of salt!
Whats the "Torque Spec" for those Water Pump Bolts ?
i used to keep an 8 foot long hunk of garden hose with a valve on one end and earmuffs on the other in my van, that way i never had to climb in and out of the boat to turn the water on.
Love this idea … I’ll share it with the guys! Appreciate you 😆
Couple of things. Suzuki service manual says do not run engine while flushing through the top ports...only using the lower unit with muffs should the engine be ran while flushing. The correct torque for the prop is 40-43 in/lbs. That prop shaft should have been heavily coated with waterproof grease. Salt Away is not effective unless you get the engine warm enough to open the thermostats, which is around 140-150 depending on if you have the standard thermostats or the optional ones.
Thanks for the great input! I’ll share it with Matt.
Its always the small steel connections that come off the block/head just block with corrosion.
Thanks for sharing! Always the small connections!
I would certainly grease all the fittings. Check the nav lights.
We check everything for this customer so they would be comfortable using the boat!
Can you put a solar float panel so it charges the battery’s
This boat is kept inside … yes they make those panels.
The first thing you check on a no pee issue is the weather! 😂
Its sunny and 80's
You probably have a mud dobber in there plug in it up. That's why it isn't overheating
Was actually stuffed with salt!
How about fluid changes?
Yes we did that too 👍
Can you pull the old batteries and hold off until the owner returns next year?
Fixed now 👍
Battery maintainer,,,,great channel brothers and sisters
Thanks for stopping by Ken!
I bet on that Verado the clutch came apart didn’t it? I had 3 do same thing last year all triple engine 350 and 400 Verados
The Verado got a hole on the lower unit somehow 👀
my suzuki 140 gets clogged alot since i fish and run very shallow water, i keep a long piece of 100 plus lb mono and just snake it into the pee hole and clears it like new every time. i would not use wire since it could make a hole in your line and end up with salt water all over your engine
Great tip thanks for sharing Mike!
You can use weed eater string to clear hoses and ports that are small .
Yes great tip!
After cleaning if boat sits again just put a golf tee or foam ear plug in it easy to remove later 😲
@@carldowney4177great tip and easy 👍
If you have a problem with mud daubers, I use a "zip tie", dauber can't get in, and if you forget to remove it, it will still pee, although it will be kind of spraying and you can then remove it.
Yes exactly 👍
My Suzuki had weak or intermittent. Found out it was a thermostat that would half open. This year blow some can air and then all the oil came out the prop and lower unit.😢
Oh darn 🥴
@@WillFixThat it took two days to get all the oil off the driveway. Glad it didn’t happen in the water. Love that Suzuki put one bolt under the engine to remove oil pan.
@@Laserman99 one bolt sure makes it easier! What kind of cleaner did you use to get the oil up?
@@WillFixThat Kitty litter followed with Dawn.
@@Laserman99 Thanks for sharing ... Dawn does wonders!
Not a Ford fan but that 7.3 is the best!! The new ones are a break down money pit
Shhh don’t tell Matt that …. I keep telling him it’s time for a new one 🤣 actually we might do a small series of videos showing/sharing ideas for improvements that we can do! It does need some body work the wheel wells are rusting! We are the original owners & it has about 130k miles.
Key thing to add is which way that shaft needs to turn as you slide it over the water pump.
Thanks for sharing!
When testing new impeller remove thermostat and run engine permit clean out of water cavity
Thanks for sharing
Never saw the old impeller in the video. Don’t know if it was just Dirt Daubers or crust blocking the pee hole.
I use solder wire, it’s stiff enough to go longer distances yet will make all of the bends and curves you need.
Another evidence of way too many impellers being replaced than need to be. Plenty of problems have occurred because lower units were dropped and not put back correctly.
The Hondas and Suzukis pee with a lot more strength than the Yamahas. If a Yamaha is not peeing strong it might not need an impeller.
I like the digital NMEA 2000 connection to my Suzuki and Yamaha motors. Both only needed a $99 decoder cable from Amazon then to an NMEA backbone to my GPS. It gives me much more data than gushes, such as water temperature. I don’t like to rely on a warning horn, many times those fail
This impeller was like 5yrs old when we did this service.
@@WillFixThat luckily I do my own maintenance. But the manual also say to inspect the impeller every year or 100 hours. If I owned the engine and used it one time in a year and the engine looks brand new, there is no way in hell I’m paying someone to drop the lower unit for an inspection every 12 months. If it’s pissing hard and my cylinder head temps are perfect I’m not replacing it at 3 years if the engine looks new as the manual says. Mine probably has 9 years, pisses perfect, and cylinder head temps are on my GPS display, stable and solid even at idle. That means I saved 3 impeller replacements probably at a total cost of over $1000 for a mechanic. Since I have 3 motors I’ve saved over $3000 in just impellers alone much less all of the other maintenance items like oil changes. If I were to use my engine one time a year I’m not doing an oil change. I don’t care what the owners manual says, Oil DOES NOT go bad sitting in a motor for a year. Especially synthetic and it’s usually clear as a pin.
Friends of mine have only had issues because they are overly OCD. One only buys new and against better judgement bought twins. Rarely used the boat but was so OCD with the manual took it in for dual service at the first year and after 25 hour bring in was accomplished. After $600 for 2 glorified oil changes they left the power on and destroyed 2 batteries. Then they must have done something else because he lost trim/tilt on one motor. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it or else someone else will break it.
Second friend shared a boat and sent it in for a “Service”, essentially just an oil change every year. Without reaching near 100 hours. He calls me up that spring wondering if I can help him find an oil leak. After a quick look under a plastic cover I asked him why he did a service he didn’t need and destroyed his power head. Mechanic left the oil filter just loose enough to leak oil and when you get a warning horn you can’t ASSUME you can make it to the dock a mile away. Now he’s looking for a 250Hp four stroke, that was an expensive maintenance interval item that didn’t need to be rushed.
If it ain’t broke don’t screw it up or let a mechanic screw it up for you. I’ve had to fix a lot of other mechanic’s work doing pro bono at the church. You would be amazed at the mark ups on jobs and incompetence.
Not all impeller changes are easy. I just got a 77 85hp Johnson. Fortunately had to drop a lower unit for repairs on the shifter. After I dropped it noticed it has 2 copper tubes that recess into the Impeller housing. When going back in you are doing it blind. One of the copper tubes was bent and crushed. These engines aren’t wise to do an inordinate amount of impeller changes. They are difficult to place together correctly and I would say a lot of mechanic have screwed it up and IT’s not immediately noticeable to the owner.
@@WillFixThat boat is berated as expensive. I’m the new 4 stroke paradigm, I find it to be needlessly expensive. Don’t use ethanol gas that sits for a while. Use AGM batteries that don’t die off season and don’t overdue unneeded maintenance. I usually spend less than $200 a year on 3 boats unless I’m doing a refurb or major improvement.
Autocorrect, change the above comment with. Boating is berated as expensive. In the new 4 stroke paradigm.
The thermostat or high water preasure valve may be stucl
It was actually full of salt.
do you do....FRESH water FLUSH....before storing the boat away.....why install any batteries....just get new ones...when it is taken out again....
Yes you should do fresh water flush every time especially in salt water. Our client keeps it at a marina… so not sure it’s done! 🥴 we loaded test the batteries & determined they needed to be replaced! So we upgraded from lead acid 27 to AGM 31’s since this boat is used rarely! But, since we did our sea trial they’ve used it twice which is huge for them!
Why would you not take 30 seconds and hookup the hose to the flush port, to help pin point the issue? Another guy that had turned a few wrenches, and makes us mobile guys look bad. I'm sure that impeller was absolutely perfect! Hence why we didn't see the original one.
This engine needed service and a new impeller it was full of salt!
Wow, by the looks of the lower unit somebody ran into the sandbar at some point no wonder it's not discharging
Maybe .... but they didn't tell us that!
The 55hp Suzuki I had would clog the telltale every time I went out, it seemed that the engine was forming salt crystals which would clog it. A heavy piece of monofilament plus a freshwater flush when I got home would clear it quickly, I would run it at idle for about 15 minutes after it warmed up.
We flushed it a few times to clear it out.
Definitely change the batteries and hook up the Garmin. Nice boat and not using it is a waste. I would be fishing every day. Definitely change the water pump.
Yup we got it back in order for them! Long time clients that just don’t use it …. You can tell just looking at the motor it looks brand new.
if not peeing, change the impeller, but also it coukd be cloged, so u can blast air into the peehole which will clear it
Yes thanks for sharing .... we didn't have air on the job so we tried the hose! We flushed it a few times with salt-away to clean it good.
@@WillFixThat did that fix it or was it the water pump ? Have the same boat and stored it last November after fresh water flush.
@@robinlee5744 yes impeller & flush cleared up our issue 👍
If batteries are dead in 6 months then there is a current draw somewhere even when the perk is I n the off position. And IMO Group 27 batteries should be plenty on that boat.
They rarely use the boat. It routinely sits for 6 months or more. Shame, its a very nice boat. I take it out on a sea trial whenever they think they might use it. That’s when the problems appear that I have to take care of so it runs great when they use it.
AGM batteries are very good and last 5-8+ years IF they are maintained and on a Trickle Charger when not being exercised.
If the battery or batteries will be “siting” and Trickle Charging is not an option:
Install a Group 31 battery like an Ionic Lithium LiFePo (Lithium Phosphate) 12 Volt, 125 Ah battery. They have 1100 cold cranking amps. 11 year warranty. Approved for Mercury 4-stroke engines. Cost is around $850 each. They drain about 1-3% per month. They are half the weight of an AGM.
Only two negatives with quality Lithium batteries are they don’t charge when batteries are below freezing (you can buy a Heater version) and Lithium are expensive! I have three for my boat and have never regretted it.
Fun Fact: Lead and AGM batteries lose their “starting power at around 50%. Lithium produce almost Full Power till about 95-98% drained?
I would also have a NOCO Jump Starter on the boat like the NOCO GBX75 and “top that off once each year.
I agree and thanks for your input. Epoch Batteries sent me LiFePo batteries for the whaler. They have build in disconnect, heater and blue tooth. Creat batteries. I also love all things NOCO. Have several of their products. I sell mostly AGM batteries. Thanks for watching.
Tel tale not working….over heat???
Was full of salt!
If there is AC power where it is kept they should invest in some trickle chargers.
Power isn’t available where it’s stored! 😊
You’d be a fool to sell that 250. For these new trucks with all the emissions issues. The new one will be in the shop often!
AJ your not helping my cause 😂 I tell Matt we need a new one since this is his daily driver & it’s getting old! We are the original owners! We might do a mini series on improving some things on the truck. Do you have any ideas?
When a boat sets for a really long time the pee tube can just get clogged especially since it dries out.
Yes this one was full of salt!
Where I'm from I would definitely change the water pump I'm sure that took a set but if the tattle tail isn't working chances are bees got in there and made a nest but that's where I'm from
We have mud wasps that love to get in the holes! We also changed the water pump … thanks for stopping by & sharing 😊
Fun boat! 😊
Have you been on it 🤣 it’s rarely used?
@@WillFixThat Not for a long time! Maybe the last time it went out, 18 months ago!
Them tear drop plates on the port side of engine 3 on head and 2 on the side of the exhaust plate they are internal anodes they should be changed no less then once a year most likely if they have not been changed then they are corroded and most likely pieces of the anodes are clogged the outlet for the pee hose
Thanks for sharing Phillip! We ran a few cycles of salt-away thru the engine which also helped to clear the pee hole.
My next thought the 5 anodes need to be pulled out and cleaned out. I bet a ton of salt in the cavities. I use salt away with anodes off. Easy to flush with anodes off
Yes flushed a few times was full of salt!
Neat trick, launched with a Mercury, but started with a Suzuki. Lol
Nope that’s not possible.
@@WillFixThat I know, was just joking with you. But the boat shown launching off the fork lift was a different boat with a merc.
Love your videos, keep up the good work sir.
My 40horse yamaha didnt work on muffs put boat inl lake telltale worked. Bad muffs
Yup that can happen.
Good morning all
Hi Scott …. Thanks for stopping by!
Change water pump every two years, yes change batteries and upgrade. Worst thing you can do to any boat is not use it.
Yes boat sits too long!
I can't understand why a person would spend that much money on a boat and then never use it.
Because it took too much effort IMO to go ride it since it was across town and they have their big boat.
Probably didn’t need to change the pump. Just blow some air in it to get it peeing
It was full of salt.
Battery 1000 cca
Got it 👍
Don't sell that truck. The 7.3 diesel is the best engine ever put in a truck. They'll run a long time if you take care of them. I have a 99.
I’ll be sure to tell Matt 🤣 we have a vid coming up soon he just replaced the injectors! It’s getting rusty in a few spots.
Hold on to the truck
Yup it’s running finally again.
Fuck no that’s when ford actually made good shit
Only issue is hard to find good stuff to keep it in good working condition.
Change the oils…
Yes they have had water in gear case.
Muddobbers
Actually was full of salt.
Recommend changing as much as possible. Why do some people have such toys?
Yes we did and flushed it twice.
Painful watch
Not sure what you mean?
Flush and done
Yes with salt-away
Next time use the flush port to verify if water comes out the tattletale. Suzuki's are notoriously known for sand glogging the tattletale. They also do dont do well with ear muffs. You need to duct tabe the lower water pickup. 1🛥🇺🇲🎣
Thanks for sharing our issue was that it was full of salt!